Originally Posted by dovercat
As you are going to be calibrating the projectors, can you provide the calibration results.
So ideally you want dark dark scenes and bright bright scenes, high on/off contrast ratio is king. Ansi contrast ratio as long as it is high enough I would expect to be typically a non-issue as in a particularly image it is more likely to be image limited than projector limited. It is only important as a vague and unreliable indicator of projector mtf which will effect perceived image quality.
Keep in mind that I am going to be comparing the SAME projector at differing light conditions to itself, just as much as comparing the other projectors to each other. This nearly eliminates any error in calibrations. That said, I will calibrate because I know if I don't, the point I just made above will go past some people and I will hear people complaining that I did not calibrate. Again though, I am primarily comparing each projector to itself at differing light and taking measurements and noting what my eyes see at the varying light measurements and contrast ratios.
ON/OFF vs ANSI is somewhat subjective, but most experts claim that ON/OFF really only helps with black levels, but that's what I aim to prove or disprove. The problem with a lot of this stuff is engineers sometimes get too deep into the theory of it, well I want to compare the engineering numbers in direct correlation with what my eyes tell me. Ansi should make a large difference with POP in brighter scenes when viewing in a BAT CAVE (if what the experts say is true), but this is yet another thing I aim to prove or disprove (by seeing if my eyes can agree with the numbers).TESTING METHODOLOGY
After much research, I have purchased an Eye One calibration device and a separate Spot light meter to take precise measurements. I will be taking contrast and light measurements from the light meter and the colorimeter. If this device does not convince me of its accuracy, I will have to move up to the Color Munki for $350. I could also go with a Spyder 3 Enhanced, but the Color Munki has a longer life and does not require a re-calibration as much, so that is why I would choose that one next over the Spyder 3. Now some people said the Eye One didn't do that well with projectors at lower lighting levels, but we shall see (again, I will exchange it for the Color Munki if I am not convinced, but I prefer not to spend $350 just yet).
Some people in here will snob the enthusiast as this is my first attempt with a colorimeter. Therefore in recogniziing my limitations, as a final test I will try to submit my resulting calibration graphs to an ICF expert calibrator and let him advise me on if the graphs look accurate enough.
In total, I will be running the projectors through an Eye One calibration device (or a ColorMunki), a separate dedicated light SPOT meter, a DVE disc, a Spears and Munsil Disc, some custom patterns from this forum, and another DISC. I will essentially look at all the results of what these calibration methods tell me and then throw out the ones that are the farthest off from an average, I will then average out the averages of what stayed within a relative deviation (in statistics I think this is called something like the confidence percentile method, where you throw out things that deviate above an X %).
I still have quite a bit of a learning curve to pull this test off properly.