Mitsubishi HC4000 - Page 7 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #181 of 1524 Old 12-06-2010, 02:29 PM
Member
 
Ntrain42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by smonska View Post

I've tried it everywhere in the zoom range, it made no difference what-so-ever. I sent the proj back to Mitsubishi tech support on Saturday, they were very helpful on the phone and sent me a prepaid Fedex 2-day label for it, so I'll see if they can do anything before I call it quits with the HC4000s.

If Mits can't fix it, I'm thinking of stepping up to a HC6800 (Made in Japan, 3800 and 4000 are China), or getting an LCoS Sony VPL-HW15 (made in Japan). Maybe a W6000 BenQ, though that is also chinese, I haven't heard of the corner to corner issues the HC3800's and HC4000's have, and I really love DLP sharpness, this is my 3rd DLP.

Just be aware that no PJ will have perfect 100% light distribution over the screen. The corners are normally a tad darker than the center, but obviously it shouldn't be a huge night and day difference. BUt 10-20% can easily be the norm. If you want perfect uniformity, the only way you will get that is with a plasma or LCD flat panel.
Ntrain42 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #182 of 1524 Old 12-06-2010, 02:56 PM
Member
 
smonska's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 53
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I've had a couple of DLP projectors before and I worked for a school dept with about 20 LCD based projectors, and I never saw uniformity this bad, or really enough for me to even notice. I was really interested to find those white test screen pics on the HC3800 thread that looked just like mine, so I think it's likely a design or manufacturing flaw inherent in HC3800/HC4000s.

My Made in Japan DLP HC1000 doesn't do it, and screenshots I've seen from the HC6800s don't see to exhibit it, so I think the Japanese Mitsubishis are held to a higher standard at this point.
smonska is offline  
post #183 of 1524 Old 12-06-2010, 03:18 PM
Member
 
VasiliyK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Vancouver WA
Posts: 30
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thank you smonska, I would be waiting for your impressions when you will get the hc4000 back. I'm 'finishing' the second lamp(~450$) on my Sharp 12k and I'm looking for a temporary replacement (until the led DLP units are out) with similar DLP look(sharp and good ANSI). I'm siting ~13' from 106"diag. 1.3x Wilson Design white screen, in a light controlled room. If some one saw both projectors (sharp 12kM2 and hc4000) please share our opinion. Thank you everybody.

P.S. Sorry for my English VasiliyK
VasiliyK is offline  
post #184 of 1524 Old 12-06-2010, 07:02 PM
Newbie
 
Creeping Death's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Mine will be here in a few days. Still need to figure out the mounting situation.
Creeping Death is offline  
post #185 of 1524 Old 12-07-2010, 11:51 AM
Member
 
smonska's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 53
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
CreepingDeath, I can tell you how I made my flush ceiling mount. First I used a stud finder to locate a 2x8 in the ceiling to screw it to.

The Mits has 3 mounting holes for 4mm (IIRC) screws, one centered over the lens and two in the rear corners. I used two pieces of trim wood to make a lower case t. One piece, slightly longer than the projector, running front to back drilled for the 4mm hole over the lens. I also drilled holes at the ends of this piece to screw to the ceiling.

I used another piece of trim wood to go between and dilled for the rear two screws, crossing over the other piece. This allows you to turn the projector a bit for aiming and supports the rear of it.

Cost me like $2, works great!

You can also use a piece of metal plate slightly larger than the projector and drill it for the 3 holes, screw the projector to it, and screw the plate the ceiling. Also about $5 at the hardware store. Good luck!
smonska is offline  
post #186 of 1524 Old 12-07-2010, 04:15 PM
Newbie
 
Creeping Death's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by t-dub View Post

HC4000 Owners,

I have a question about this projector's noise level. I just set up mine and while I love the picture, it makes a noticeable high-pitched buzz during operation. Is that normal?

Thanks!

I just got mine tonight and I am also hearing a high pitched whine along with the the lower frequency fan noise. The fan sounds fine, but the high pitch mixed in is a bit annoying. Granted, it is sitting next to me on the sofa and I'm not listening to anything else right now but it's still not the sort of thing I like to hear. I always try to get big, slow fans in my computers to keep the pitch low and tolerable. Maybe it will sound different when it's up on the ceiling. I would like to see what more people think about this.

Maybe I will need a hush box.
Creeping Death is offline  
post #187 of 1524 Old 12-07-2010, 06:55 PM
Senior Member
 
scrubsr1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: idaho
Posts: 296
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
The high pitch noise is the color wheel. If you find it intrusive to your viewing experience then get a replacement, it's only going to get worse...

Mitsubishi dlp projectors have a history of bad color wheels. I experienced two failures myself( 2x hc3100), both with less than 800hrs.
scrubsr1 is offline  
post #188 of 1524 Old 12-08-2010, 08:58 AM
Member
 
Ntrain42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by scrubsr1 View Post

The high pitch noise is the color wheel. If you find it intrusive to your viewing experience then get a replacement, it's only going to get worse...

Mitsubishi dlp projectors have a history of bad color wheels. I experienced two failures myself( 2x hc3100), both with less than 800hrs.

The only time you should really hear that colorwheel is upon startup when it spools up. Beyond that it should be pretty much inaudible. If your hearing an audible hi pitched whine then I agree it should be RMA'd.

So far though IMO the HC4000 has significantly reduced alot of the QC on the units overall. Myself and 3 friends have this PJ, all have performed flawless to date, no colorwheel noise or uniformity issues. They have been solid to date.
Ntrain42 is offline  
post #189 of 1524 Old 12-08-2010, 10:15 AM
Advanced Member
 
vttom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Essex, VT
Posts: 555
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
My 30ft HDMI cable finally arrived. So I was able to get the PJ hooked up and throwing a picture that fills my 72in (diag, 16:9) screen.

I think it looks pretty darn good. No noticeable problems with uniformity. The fan noise is much less than my current projector (InFocus SP4805), which I'm very happy about.
vttom is offline  
post #190 of 1524 Old 12-08-2010, 05:00 PM
Newbie
 
Creeping Death's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I spoke to support today and they talk about the fact that I should hear the color wheel on startup. It is audible then, but goes high pitched and stays there until power down. Then, the pitch comes down rapidly as the color wheel spins down. Everyone is trying to determine if it is normal or if I am extra sensitive to this noise. Mitsubishi was easy to talk to and gave me a case number so I can exchange it with my dealer.

Shame, because otherwise I think it's great. The picture looks nice and clear, and that's just on a blue wall because my screen isn't here yet.
Creeping Death is offline  
post #191 of 1524 Old 12-08-2010, 05:33 PM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by Creeping Death View Post

Everyone is trying to determine if it is normal or if I am extra sensitive to this noise. .

Are you on the younger side?

And, any of your friends/family hear it?
fleaman is offline  
post #192 of 1524 Old 12-08-2010, 07:44 PM
Newbie
 
Creeping Death's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Yes, and my brother hears it as well. Funny, support asked me the same question. I don't think it should be designed so you need to have hearing damage to not be annoyed.
Creeping Death is offline  
post #193 of 1524 Old 12-08-2010, 08:31 PM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by Creeping Death View Post

Yes, and my brother hears it as well. Funny, support asked me the same question. I don't think it should be designed so you need to have hearing damage to not be annoyed.

It's not really hearing damage per se, it can just be natural.

Pretty much only children/teens, maybe some young adults can hear 20-20k. Hearing degrades as you age, nothing you can do about it and it happens to everyone. It does degrade at different rates, dependent on genes, lifestyle, etc.

This is why they had designed those 18k-20k ringtones that only kids can hear (not adults).

Remember, back in the dark ages, or caveman era, not only were there no loud sounds ('cept for thunder), but the average lifespan was 1/2 of what it is today, if that. Evolutionary wise, it's not a big deal that the super high freq's start to be hard to detect as we get older. Human speech only goes up to about 7k at the most, and it's really pinpointed around 1k-2.5k.

Anyway, the ability to hear up to 20k can be diminished as early as 20 years old, even if you lived in a cave all your life. Some aren't even born with the ability to hear that high also.

Point being (gosh, get to the point already!), the CW whine you hear is probably up their freq wise, 12-15k, or higher. And even if it is low in level, you might hear it, but it might be too low in level for most other adults to hear it. If it was maybe 10-20db louder, the whine might then become audible to others.
fleaman is offline  
post #194 of 1524 Old 12-08-2010, 08:40 PM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Also, a similar product that also had (to varying degrees) a high freq whine was/is the 'ol tube (CRT) TV. Older ones were worse, newer ones can be better, but even those with the most sensitive hearing can hear the whine in every CRT tv

Though this shouldn't really be an excuse for the whine you're experiencing on the HC4000.
fleaman is offline  
post #195 of 1524 Old 12-08-2010, 10:15 PM
Newbie
 
Creeping Death's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
One of the support guys said the same thing about CRT Tv's. I have always heard them too, but they are in a much higher frequency range than this. It is a bit louder than the fan, or maybe it just cuts through because it's annoying.

Based on what you guys are saying, I think mine sounds worse than it should. It's the kind of thing I would have expected some reviewer to mention at some point if it was a standard occurrence. I guess we'll find out when I get the replacement.
Creeping Death is offline  
post #196 of 1524 Old 12-09-2010, 01:33 PM
Member
 
Ntrain42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Creeping Death View Post

I spoke to support today and they talk about the fact that I should hear the color wheel on startup. It is audible then, but goes high pitched and stays there until power down. Then, the pitch comes down rapidly as the color wheel spins down. Everyone is trying to determine if it is normal or if I am extra sensitive to this noise. Mitsubishi was easy to talk to and gave me a case number so I can exchange it with my dealer.

Shame, because otherwise I think it's great. The picture looks nice and clear, and that's just on a blue wall because my screen isn't here yet.

Where exactly is it mounted? You can hear the colorwheel if your ear is right up next to it with nothing playing through the speakers, but you literally need your ear up close to the unit to hear it when its running when the audio is off, then thats normal. Is this something you can easily record and playback on youtube for all the "hear"?
Ntrain42 is offline  
post #197 of 1524 Old 12-09-2010, 04:37 PM
Newbie
 
Creeping Death's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have not mounted it yet, because I wanted to first make sure everything was okay. It is sitting next to me. The sound can be heard anywhere in the room. I do not believe it is the kind of sound most people need to hold their ears directly near the unit to hear. Here is an audio recording of it: http://rapidshare.com/files/43598830...ine_defect.zip
I held the mic a few inches away from the lens. You will hear the whine along with the fan sound, then me grabbing the remote to power it down, and finally the color wheel spinning down and the fans revving up to cool the lamp. The volume level was boosted in this file so you could hear it, but no compression was used. Compare the proportion of whine to fan noise with your models and we will know what's happening.
Creeping Death is offline  
post #198 of 1524 Old 12-10-2010, 04:17 AM
Member
 
RogerJoensson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Sweden
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi,

After having bought and tried two HC3800 with terrible colour and brightness deviations and shipped them back. Then I ordered a HC4000 and am ready to ship it back too. I think I am giving up.

The colour and brightness deviations are less, pretty close to acceptable, but not enough too me. I´d rather stay with my HC3100 (and HC1100).

Today I talked with Mitsubishi support and they confirmed that there can be some devaiations, even though HC4000 does have an improved lens system.
The source of the problem seem to be the tiny holes of each pixel, small enough to break the light different at different wave lengths, making it hard to get it through the lens without colour shift. Extreme precision is needed.

The price being pushed downwards and manufacturing having moved to China, hasn't helped.

It is obvious that there are strange things going on. If you hold a finger up in front of the lens, the shadow isn't just grey (as on HC1100/HC3100), but reddish on one side and greenish on the other. This doesn't say that it is a problem on screen, but is points to what problems the lens is wrestling with...

-Pictures of the results with the HC4000 unit I tested:

RogerJoensson is offline  
post #199 of 1524 Old 12-10-2010, 04:55 AM
Member
 
DieBrotmafia's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 41
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Gaah, so many people seem to have this problem.. I begin to be unsure about wheter my replacmenet unit will really be without this problem (hc3800)

Are there any 3800 or 4000 that don't have this problem? And I don't mean people that don't see it in movies, I mean people that really checked for it with different colors and don't have that problem?
DieBrotmafia is offline  
post #200 of 1524 Old 12-10-2010, 10:44 AM
Newbie
 
advgeek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerJoensson View Post

Hi,

After having bought and tried two HC3800 with terrible colour and brightness deviations and shipped them back. Then I ordered a HC4000 and am ready to ship it back too. I think I am giving up.

The colour and brightness deviations are less, pretty close to acceptable, but not enough too me. I´d rather stay with my HC3100 (and HC1100).

Today I talked with Mitsubishi support and they confirmed that there can be some devaiations, even though HC4000 does have an improved lens system.
The source of the problem seem to be the tiny holes of each pixel, small enough to break the light different at different wave lengths, making it hard to get it through the lens without colour shift. Extreme precision is needed.

The price being pushed downwards and manufacturing having moved to China, hasn't helped.

It is obvious that there are strange things going on. If you hold a finger up in front of the lens, the shadow isn't just grey (as on HC1100/HC3100), but reddish on one side and greenish on the other. This doesn't say that it is a problem on screen, but is points to what problems the lens is wrestling with...

-Pictures of the results with the HC4000 unit I tested:

Wow, thanks for the great research and explanation. Unfortunately it only has reinforced my decision to return my HC4000 and get the JVC HD-250 since it sounds somewhat unlikely that I will get a HC-4000 that doesn't experience the uniformity problem. In addition my HC4000 will only sync with one out of 3 of my HDMI/DVI sources and doesn't work with my HDMI switch at all. The HC4000 seems like a product with a lot of potential, but just not quite there.
advgeek is offline  
post #201 of 1524 Old 12-10-2010, 12:03 PM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by advgeek View Post

Wow, thanks for the great research and explanation. Unfortunately it only has reinforced my decision to return my HC4000 and get the JVC HD-250 since it sounds somewhat unlikely that I will get a HC-4000 that doesn't experience the uniformity problem. In addition my HC4000 will only sync with one out of 3 of my HDMI/DVI sources and doesn't work with my HDMI switch at all. The HC4000 seems like a product with a lot of potential, but just not quite there.

I went through 3 HC3800's (for the early shutdown problems), and all of them had some sort of color uniformity issue on total white or total black screens. But, while it was noticeable, it wasn't bad on all 3 of them, certainly not as bad as I'm seeing here in this thread. It seemed to be the luck of the draw, some HC3800 owners got worse uniformity units vs. others. I guess I was lucky to a point.

I thought it was deviations in the lamp that caused this, but maybe not.....still not clear to me how this occurs.

On a different note: advgeek, please post back here after you've settled in with the HD250, would be very interested to hear the thoughts from someone who's gone from the HC4000 to the HD250

(also, my HC3800 works well with the monoprice 4x2 switch and a 25ft cable).
fleaman is offline  
post #202 of 1524 Old 12-10-2010, 01:43 PM
Newbie
 
advgeek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

On a different note: advgeek, please post back here after you've settled in with the HD250, would be very interested to hear the thoughts from someone who's gone from the HC4000 to the HD250

(also, my HC3800 works well with the monoprice 4x2 switch and a 25ft cable).

I'll post my impressions. Hopefully it will ship from AVS soon.

I'm using the Monoprice 4x1 switcher and a 25' 24AWG HDMI cable and only my Panasonic Bluray works even without the switcher. My Bravo D1 and HTPC with DVI doesn't work at all even without the switcher.
advgeek is offline  
post #203 of 1524 Old 12-10-2010, 01:55 PM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by advgeek View Post

I'll post my impressions. Hopefully it will ship from AVS soon.

I'm using the Monoprice 4x1 switcher and a 25' 24AWG HDMI cable and only my Panasonic Bluray works even without the switcher. My Bravo D1 and HTPC with DVI doesn't work at all even without the switcher.

Had a Panny BD35, now a Oppo BD83SE, + TWC box shooting out 1080i, all worked fine through the 4x2 switcher. But I have to note that this is the 2nd switcher, the first 4x2 had a problem with one of the outs, seemed that my LCD LED Sharp didn't like one of the outs (but worked fine on the other out), yet the HC3800 was cool with either out!

Had a Momitsu in the past (was the same as the older Bravo's), but the loader had started to act up, so never had it hooked up to the HC3800.

But yeah, real interested in your HD250 impressions. Mostly in the area of mixed scene contrast/pop (the ansi contrast issue), sharpness and motion. Basically, if the HD250 'appears' flatter than the HC4000. If the HD250 gets down to the $2000 mark in a year, that might make me move from my HC3800 sooner than later.
fleaman is offline  
post #204 of 1524 Old 12-10-2010, 03:16 PM
Newbie
 
Creeping Death's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am worried about returning this projector and getting one back that has uniformity problems. I have only tested this on a blue wall, but I can't see any problems with the picture. It looks great.
Creeping Death is offline  
post #205 of 1524 Old 12-11-2010, 04:16 AM
Member
 
DieBrotmafia's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 41
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

I went through 3 HC3800's (for the early shutdown problems), and all of them had some sort of color uniformity issue on total white or total black screens. But, while it was noticeable, it wasn't bad on all 3 of them, certainly not as bad as I'm seeing here in this thread. It seemed to be the luck of the draw, some HC3800 owners got worse uniformity units vs. others. I guess I was lucky to a point.

Thanks! I send it to my dealer and asked him to tell mitsubishi to test that issue before they sound out another one. If my swapped version still has this problem I'll probably change projectors
DieBrotmafia is offline  
post #206 of 1524 Old 12-11-2010, 11:00 AM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieBrotmafia View Post

Thanks! I send it to my dealer and asked him to tell mitsubishi to test that issue before they sound out another one. If my swapped version still has this problem I'll probably change projectors

Yeah, I want to clarify that I could only 'notice' the uniformity issue on a total black or total white screen. Normal movie content it was impossible. Again, it wasn't as bad as I was seeing in this thread, but I also don't use my HC3800 as a computer desktop either.

I would expect every HC3800/4000 to have 'some' sort of uniformity issue when displaying a total black/white screen. Like I said, mine has it, but it's slight and doesn't affect movie content at all.

It could be that you got an especially 'off' unit. Hopefully you'll get a better one next time.
fleaman is offline  
post #207 of 1524 Old 12-11-2010, 11:25 AM
Member
 
RogerJoensson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Sweden
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

Again, it wasn't as bad as I was seeing in this thread, but I also don't use my HC3800 as a computer desktop either.

The desktop in my case is only there between movies... I can clearly see it in movies as well that there are brightness deviation problems. My wife described it as "it looks that there is always an extra headlight in the middle at the top". I can also see, especially in black and white movies, that moving objects change colour-tone when it moves from side to side. -And that is with the best one of the three!

I am glad to be back with my HC3100 which has no such visible defects at all!
RogerJoensson is offline  
post #208 of 1524 Old 12-11-2010, 12:29 PM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Wow, that's sounds pretty bad.

I was toying with selling my HC3800 for an HC4000 (at some $$ loss of course), but now I think I might just sit on the sidelines for a while.
fleaman is offline  
post #209 of 1524 Old 12-11-2010, 12:39 PM
AVS Special Member
 
fleaman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,577
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by advgeek View Post

I'll post my impressions. Hopefully it will ship from AVS soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

But yeah, real interested in your HD250 impressions. Mostly in the area of mixed scene contrast/pop (the ansi contrast issue), sharpness and motion. Basically, if the HD250 'appears' flatter than the HC4000.

Oh, and shadow detail! HC3800/4000 are great at that, but I've noticed in many of the projectorreviews.com shadow detail screenshots that the JVC's seem to crush it comparatively. Art mentions it's because the shadows on JVC's are darker (more black), but either way, I like maximum shadow detail, so I don't mind sacrificing a little black to get it. Interesting on how the HD250 compares to the HC4000 in this regard.
fleaman is offline  
post #210 of 1524 Old 12-12-2010, 08:25 AM
Newbie
 
vpro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Anyone know how this compares to my old DC3 Optoma HD7100? It was 720p but had a good short throw lens & with some very sharp optics. Projected on to a 92" Da-Lite matte white. Left it when I moved last year but I'm moving again so will be able to jump back into this insanity(drive the wife crazy)again.
vpro is offline  
Reply Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off