The Offical Epson 8350 Owners Thread - Page 302 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 03-31-2015, 04:30 PM
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Questions for those very knowledgeable with this projectors, have ran them with the covers off, or have repaired them:

0.) I want to confirm the following is normal startup procedure. Anyone could (please!) try this if they run the projector with the lamp out, and the cover switch depressed (the cross shaped opening over a switch that the lamp door pushes on. A screwdriver works.):
A.) The front black, exhaust fan (looking down at the lamp well, with lens in front) doesn't run on startup. I believe it probably starts up later once the bulb gets up to temp.

B.) The auto iris is fully opened from whatever position it started in and left open

C.) The cinema filter slides back and forth once, to the end of it's travel (limit switches).

1.) Has anyone found a service manual for this model? Or at least a parts list?

2.) At the front left corner of the lamp well (looking top down, lens at front), where the lamp sits, there is a small (1" tall, maybe 1/4" wide?), white-ish ceramic (I think?) electrical component with two white leads. The front of this component is exposed, meaning, it can be seen from the inside of the lamp well. The wires run to the main switches. I believe it to be a thermal breaker, or thermal switch, can anyone confirm?

3.) My projector is doing the following: It turns on, lamp is energized/lit, and the word Epson becomes projected. All fans startup, except the large front black exhaust fan in front of the lamp, that blows out the front. The auto iris opens up to full aperture. The cinema filter slides back and forth once in each direction (hits the limits switches). Shortly after (about 5 seconds after the unit is turned on), the lamp shuts off, the fans ramp to full speed, and the Temp light begins flashing red on / off once a second. Fans run for ~1 minute, then it powers down. It now does this every single time. It was doing it intermittently for a few months, on startup - and very once in a while, it would shut off during use (but then usually could be turned right back on). It only started doing it after I replaced a lamp that failed catastrophically (exploded).

For these reasons, I'm thinking that the component I named is a thermal breaker, that is tripped and thinks it's overheating. And that it now failed completely. My auto iris and cinema filter work just fine from what I see.

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Old 04-01-2015, 05:30 AM
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If you look at the pic below you will see a sensor in the middle. The thing with 2 black wires running to it. This is a temp sensor, I think there is another near the lamp if memory serves correct.
During my repair I accidentally forgot to reconnect this and it caused the pj to shut down similar to yours.
I would look at maybe replacing the sensors
http://s25.postimg.org/69777owf3/IMAG0174.png
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Old 04-01-2015, 10:48 AM
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My 8345 (2-3 years old with 2000 on it) has a red tint in the middle & a blue tint on the right. Is this the polarizers going? I just put in a brand new Epson bulb.

Thanks.
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Old 04-01-2015, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ashyt16 View Post
If you look at the pic below you will see a sensor in the middle. The thing with 2 black wires running to it. This is a temp sensor, I think there is another near the lamp if memory serves correct.
During my repair I accidentally forgot to reconnect this and it caused the pj to shut down similar to yours.
I would look at maybe replacing the sensors
http://s25.postimg.org/69777owf3/IMAG0174.png
Thank you, don't think I've come across that one yet! There is for sure, another temp sensor (a thermistor) on a tiny green circuit board, screwed to the outside of the lamp well, near the front. I verified it's a temp sensor (the resistance drops with heat and increases as it's' cooled off).

That said, I think I found my problem. As I noted above, what I was finding was that the large, black, axial, front exhaust fan, the one that's open to the lamp well, and blows out the front of the projector, was not turning on with the rest of the fans during startup, and remained off, even once the PJ shut off the lamp, and would flash the Temp light. I wasn't sure if this was normal or not. I thought maybe the PJ kept this fan off during startup to let the bulb warm up quicker?

I have since found out, that is not normal. Last night before I tore apart the projector again, I decided to try firing it up first... and it worked! Immediately, first try. I noticed that the front exhaust fan was on though, and came on with the other fans. I tried it a few more times with the lamp out, and it worked just fine, so I put the lamp in, tried a few more power cycles with the lamp in, still worked great.

So I took it to my Theatre, hooked it up, aligned it etc, worked awesome. I then continued to use it for about another hour, during which, as I was watching a DVD, it suddenly and inexplicably, shut it self off, and put the fans into high speed. This is the same thing it did before I started trying repairing it.

As I tried to turn it back on, it once again, did the same start-up behavior. About 5 seconds after turning it on, it'll turn itself off and flash the temp light.

I can only assume, that the front exhaust fan in question is flaky, and failing. The fan is a 3 wire fan, so it's likely that it has a tach signal it reports to the motherboard to say if it's running or not. My guess is, it stopped running, the mobo knew that from the tach signal, and turned off the PJ to prevent overheating. And I bet it's not starting up again with startup, thus it won't finish booting up.

Unfortunately, that fan looks like a nightmare to get out. It doesn't seem to be removable from the lamp well area, there is plastic covering the corners. And it looks like to remove it from the front, you'd have to turn it sideways and pull it out. I gotta take a look again.

Anyone replaced or removed this front exhaust fan? Any tips?

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Old 04-01-2015, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverJS View Post
I'm sure some enterprising owners here have replaced their PJ's fan?
Which fan are you having a problem with? There are at least 3 different fans.
Are you sure it's the fan you're hearing?
Is your PJ turning itself off or erroring?

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Old 04-01-2015, 03:25 PM
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I just got my 8350 a couple of days ago from Visual Apex, new not a refurb. In doing some testing I was sitting right next to the projector. .

I'm running in Eco mode and with Dynamic, Living Room, Cinema, Natural the fan noise is constant and the same for all modes, but the fan noise in x.v. Color mode is not noticable at all, it just goes away as soon as I switch to x.v Color. Is this SOP for the 8350? The fan cranks up again immediately as soon as I switch back to any of the other modes.

The fan noise is the only negative I've come across, I think it's louder than the 22db-28db I see quoted in reviews and will be somewhate noticeable in quiet scenes once I get the pj installed on it's shelf (after basement repairs). Otherwise I'm pretty impressed the projector, especially at the closeout price.
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Old 04-01-2015, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Protonus View Post
Which fan are you having a problem with? There are at least 3 different fans.
Are you sure it's the fan you're hearing?
Is your PJ turning itself off or erroring?
I did not know there were three - but what the heck, I'd change all three of them as the unit is four years old.

The projector is not turning itself on and off, and no errors. There's just some noises coming from the PJ that are clearly from fans dying, noises I've heard before in PC's.

Are all three fans accessible and user-replaceable (assuming a certain degree of skill)?
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SilverJS View Post
I did not know there were three - but what the heck, I'd change all three of them as the unit is four years old.
The fans are expensive, and hard to find. I would highly recommend finding exactly what fan is failing (for the reasons I'll state below). You could use a mechanics stethoscope (or a dowel rod etc), against the internals of the projector while it's open and operational, to determine the source of noise. To run the projector while it's open, you can take the top and sides off (the one side with controls and the top with buttons are on long ribbon cables you can leave attached and off to the side). Then there is a big black plastic safety switch to shut the projector off so you can't run it with the lamp cover off, just depress this or tape it down. Lastly, I would recommend taking the lamp out as well, as there is no reason to wear the lamp as you turn the unit off/on etc.

While they are just fans, they are proprietary to Epson projectors and only used on a few models (Projector manufacturers often order custom fans in order to keep noise down, specify a specific RPM, etc). The part numbers on them you'll find are virtually unsourceable, depending on the fan. I just went thru this myself. This eBay seller, is literally the only place I found brand new fans for our model projectors:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/scandig/m.ht...1&_ipg=&_from=

That seller has been wonderful to work with FWIW. Search his items for sale for the exact model of fan you have using the search bar at the top of that page. I believe he currently stocks all fans we'd need.

Most of the fans I found elsewhere were actually used. Putting a used fan in an older projector seems like a huge waste of money/time to me.

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Originally Posted by SilverJS View Post
The projector is not turning itself on and off, and no errors. There's just some noises coming from the PJ that are clearly from fans dying, noises I've heard before in PC's.
FWIW, it's very possible it's not the fans you're hearing then. Most (perhaps all) of the fans are 3 wire fans, which means the projector can monitor their speed via a tach/clock signal on the third wire. So if they begin to slow down, it'll shut down with a Temp warning. Furthermore, there is at least one, full time actively monitored temperature sensor as well, and possibly more, so again, if it gets warm, it'll error and shut down.

It may be the other two, motor driven components in the projector instead that you're hearing - the sliding Cinema Filter, and the Auto Iris. Especially if the noise you're hearing isn't constant. You'll hear the whine/grind of the Cinema Filter every time you turn on the projector because it slides back and forth between 2 limit switches, as well as when you switch between Cinema mode, and Living Room or Dynamic. You'll hear the Auto Iris in any mode it's enabled in, while the projected image white level changes.

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Originally Posted by SilverJS View Post
Are all three fans accessible and user-replaceable (assuming a certain degree of skill)?
Not at all, they're certainly not designed to be enduser replaceable and they're all buried. If you're expecting this to be like repairing a desktop PC you're in for a shock. It's more like repairing a laptop from hell. The only one I'd consider even remotely "easy" is the rear mounted, lamp intake air blower fan, which blows thru a small ~1" square duct into the rear side of the lamp directly to cool it. And even that fan requires first opening the projector (about a dozen screws, 3 on one side, 2 on another, about 8 on the bottom and a few on the back too), then removing the entire motherboard from the top of the projector to access it, and that motherboard is held in with about 8 screws, and probably 15 or so wires and cables run to it that must first be unplugged, including the delicate high density ribbon cables that run to each LCD.

If you take your time as you'll need to do, but are confident, you can open up the projector and take out the motherboard, in about 30 minutes I'd say, if you already know what you're doing (I've done it a few times now). But your first time? That might take you 2 hours. Take pictures as you go, note what screws go where, etc.

The other fans are buried. The one I'm about to replace myself is the front exhaust fan, which is an axial fan inside of a ductwork. Best I can tell last time I had it open, even though it's easy to see, it looks like you might have to remove the entire light engine to actually get at it and replace it, ugh.

I'm going to be doing that in the next few days. While I have it all apart I can take a picture or two showing where the fans I'm aware of are at least.

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Old 04-04-2015, 06:41 AM
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Wow. First, props for the lengthy reply, and thanks - your time is very much appreciated. Point by point :

Quote:
Originally Posted by Protonus View Post
The fans are expensive, and hard to find. I would highly recommend finding exactly what fan is failing (for the reasons I'll state below). You could use a mechanics stethoscope (or a dowel rod etc), against the internals of the projector while it's open and operational, to determine the source of noise.
OK, Roger that. The noise is a plastic vibration - interesting thing is, though, in the last few days, I've noticed it goes away after 5-10 minutes. Weird...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Protonus View Post
FWIW, it's very possible it's not the fans you're hearing then. Most (perhaps all) of the fans are 3 wire fans, which means the projector can monitor their speed via a tach/clock signal on the third wire. So if they begin to slow down, it'll shut down with a Temp warning. Furthermore, there is at least one, full time actively monitored temperature sensor as well, and possibly more, so again, if it gets warm, it'll error and shut down.

It may be the other two, motor driven components in the projector instead that you're hearing - the sliding Cinema Filter, and the Auto Iris. Especially if the noise you're hearing isn't constant. You'll hear the whine/grind of the Cinema Filter every time you turn on the projector because it slides back and forth between 2 limit switches, as well as when you switch between Cinema mode, and Living Room or Dynamic. You'll hear the Auto Iris in any mode it's enabled in, while the projected image white level changes.
The only time I hear the Auto Iris is when I first turn the projector on, or when I switch sources (say, going from my HTPC to my PS3) as it adjusts brightness. Does the Cinema Filter noise go on for about 10ish minutes...?

Point taken about the fans, but dude - I'm blown away. Sounds to me they had to re-invent the wheel here, as there are quite a few very experienced fan makers in the PC world that make great, silent hardware that push a pretty decent amount of air. Oh well.

If you are indeed changing them, some pictures might indeed be very, very helpful - not only to me, I assume, but to all other owners as this projector ages.
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Old 04-06-2015, 11:44 AM
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I'm happy to report I've fixed my projector! It was indeed, the front exhaust fan! It certainly should always be spinning from the moment all the other fans are spun up. Mine was intermittently failing to start at all. Since it's a 3 wire fan, the PJ knew it wasn't running and it would turn off and error with the temp light flashing. This problem started after I had a bulb explode (about 1000 lamp hours ago) and I believe this fan literally sucked in some debris and particles from the explosion. It was initially intermittent, sometimes just turning it off/on again and it would work for days. But towards the end, it virtually never worked, and when it did, it would fail once the PJ was running for a while, leading to the repair.

I bought a new, exact replacement fan from the eBay seller I mentioned in my prior post, installed it (per my instructions below), and, it's all set!
I hope all this info helps someone else in the future.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverJS View Post
Wow. First, props for the lengthy reply, and thanks - your time is very much appreciated.
You're welcome. This is sort of my thing heh. I've learned a lot by fixing things and I like to share what I learn, because people like me rely on information like this. Please note, I'm including some of the text below as clickable links to images for illustrative purposes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverJS View Post
OK, Roger that. The noise is a plastic vibration - interesting thing is, though, in the last few days, I've noticed it goes away after 5-10 minutes. Weird...
Don't get me wrong, especially without hearing it, that could certainly be a fan. One which the bearings are starting to go in, and until it gets up to temp, there is too much play and it vibrates. The thing is the fans in this PJ are very acoustically dampened - they utilize floating designs, with plastic on plastic mounting, with the fans themselves, isolated and dampened on all possible contact points with neoprene rubber. It'll have to be really bad I think for it to be all that noticeable. But that means if you run it with the projector open / apart, per my prior post, you should be able to find it pretty quick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverJS View Post
The only time I hear the Auto Iris is when I first turn the projector on, or when I switch sources (say, going from my HTPC to my PS3) as it adjusts brightness. Does the Cinema Filter noise go on for about 10ish minutes...?
These two components make very different noises and at different times. There's a lot to say about them, so I figure I'll answer any potential questions about them up front:

Auto Iris: This is two brass plates with a very small aperture (half circle) cut out of the middle of each of them. These plates are second thing the light from the lamp is to encounter. Only 1 single lens is between them and the lamp. Unlike what the name implies (Iris), this not not like a SLR camera's complex round iris, and it isn't in the main lens like a camera either. Instead, this is more like two window shutters. The point is to block a lot of the light from the lamp, during images that are mostly dark/black, in order to dramatically increase black level and perceived contrast, and to open, allowing all of the lamps's light to be used, during scenes that are mostly white, in order to increase perceived brightness and color saturation.

They are driven to open/close (much like Johnny 5's "eyelids" in Short Circuit), by plastic gears mounted to one side. These are directly driven by a small, precise servo motor. As the motor spins, the gears open/close the plates. The projector knows that the plates are still "within operating range" based on a gate style optical sensor (a U shaped optical sensor, with a light on one side and a receiver on the other, very similar to what many older mechanical (ball) based computer mice used). On one of the plastic gears, is a semi circle protrusion/ridge that moves thru this optical sensor. When the gears hit their normal limit, this ridge moves out of the sensor and I presume the projector than knows that's as far as they can move in that direction.

During operation, the noise they make could be best described as a "rumble". It's a low pitched, rumbly sound. Not much louder than the fans themselves, but loud enough you might hear it while watching a movie, during quiet scenes where the image white level changes a lot.

On startup of the projector, the iris is fully opened from wherever it was, before the fans are started. Since much of the time it isn't run fully open (depending on what Color Mode you are set to) that means on most start ups of the project, you will hear it clearly for about a half second or so.

During operation of the projector, it will continue to actuate, opening / closing slightly all of the time - IF the Color Mode / Memory setting you're using, has the Auto Iris set to Normal or High Speed. I believe it's on high speed by default in Cinema mode, and possibly Normal in Living Room? (all of my modes are tweaked). You will most notice the noise it makes and it's effect, if you are watching something which goes from mostly black, to mostly white. A great example is the start of Star Wars Episode IV - as they go from space (mostly black) to the interior of the Rebel ship (mostly white).

You will often hear it actuate as you switch inputs as you mention, because the image goes black between modes.

Possible reasons for failure of this component: Optical sensor dirty/damaged, gears stripped, loss of lubrication (uses silicone grease), motor failure, etc.

Cinema Filter: This is a bluish looking glass lens, that's framed inside of a plastic plate. This is placed after the auto iris (in terms of light path). The point of this component is that LCD elements and hot projector lamps, naturally have some color balance issues, pushing some colors more than others. This is particularly noticeable when watching a movie in a very dark room. This filter eliminates some of that color push by partially blocking certain colors of light from the lamp, increasing color accuracy. The trade off of course is that some of the brightness is lost, and as such, this is only to be used in very dark rooms, and for movies, etc. And that's why AFAIK, it's only used in the Cinema mode.

The plastic plate that the glass lens is placed in, has a flat plastic gear cast into the plastic as part of it. This flat gear, is moved back and forth by a circular gear at the bottom of the lens plate - like a lego steering rack. This circular gear is then in turn driven by a gear box, which is attached to a servo motor. The amount of force to move that window back and forth is fairly large (you'll notice it seems rather "tight" if you try and slide it back and forth by hand), and the motor is tiny, hence the gearbox. The plastic lens plate is secured at it's top by sitting in a metal rail, which it slides in (like a sliding door). On this rail, is mounted, two small limit switches with white plastic "flippers". As the lens plate moves to each end of the limit of it's travel, it hits these switches, one in each direction. Thus the projector knows when it's reached the end of it's travel.

During operation, the noise it makes could be best described as a whine/grind. It is quite loud, sounds a bit like an old Dot Matrix Printer.

On Startup, the lens plate is normally moved once in one direction till it hits it's limit switch, then it's moved in the other direction until it hit's the other limit switch. This happens before the fans start, and is very loud and easy to notice.

During operation of the projector, I don't believe this component is ever actuated, unless you change Color Mode to Cinema, or from Cinema. You will distinctly hear it when you change to/from Cinema though. You'll notice it's effect in Cinema mode because the colors of the projector will appear a bit muted, and more accurate, as well as just being a darker image overall. The reverse is true in the other modes.

Possible reasons for failure of this component: The limit switches aren't closing/shorting electrically when they are lifted/actuated, so the projector faults (dirty internally. Easily checked with a continuity tester / resistance meter). Or the gears inside of the gearbox which are plastic, have broken a tooth, or shredded. Or theservo motor has failed. Etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverJS View Post
Point taken about the fans, but dude - I'm blown away. Sounds to me they had to re-invent the wheel here, as there are quite a few very experienced fan makers in the PC world that make great, silent hardware that push a pretty decent amount of air. Oh well.
I know where you're coming from (I work in the PC industry), but you're greatly over simplifying things. I'll explain:

PC's have extremely simple cooling requirements when compared to a projector. First of all they are generally far less expensive, and can have very large cases in which to work with lots of empty/wasted space. Parts like fans and cases are universal and aren't OEM specific. Air routing matters very little, and the same air can be used everywhere to cool anything. Basically all you need to do, is keep the hot stuff cold. The colder the better - virtually all components you find in a PC benefit from being literally as cold as possible. You can use whatever means you can do do so (fixed heatsinks, radiators, fans - blower and axial, heat pipes, peltiers, even water cooling, cryogenics or even full submersion in deionized water). And bonus points if you do so quietly. Thus you can make the fan speed relative to the temperature, speeding up only when needed. And that's about it.

Projectors are a whole different ball game. First, you actually want the lamp to be hot. That's why your bulb has to "warm up" when you first turn on the PJ. The lamp does not reach full brightness when cold. However, italso cannot get too hot. Or it'll explode, fail, or it's life greatly diminished. So extremely precise cooling is needed. This is why they use a blower fan (because it needs to develop pressure) that is ducted to a small, 1" or so, precise opening on the lamp housing to blow cool air directly onto the lamp itself. The fan speed must be monitored, and regulated, to coincide with a temperature sensor near the lamp, so the temperature can be kept at the sweet spot.

But other things in the projector, like the electronics/processors need to be kept cold too. They need their own clean air, and it can't come from the lamp as that air is now piping hot. So separate air paths are needed for the processors. Then you also have the power supply and lamp ballast, which are also very hot, and also, cannot use the lamp air, so they get their own blower fan, with it's own clean air entrance.

Then, once all these seperate air paths are used and all their components are cooled, you have to get this now, "dirty/hot" air out of the projector, as quick as you can. Thus you also need an exhaust fan. Oh, and the heat from the projector has to be directed away from the lens, outside the projector, because hot air will cause noticeable "heat waves" in the projected image which are really bad. So exhaust air exit location, and it's angle is important (hence the angled vanes in the air exhaust on the front of our projectors).

And since we're dealing with a precision optical system, you need to eliminate dust. So an air filter has to be employed, and that means all separate air paths need to originate at the same entrance, so they can share this filter. But air filters greatly reduce air flow, so you need powerful fans that can over come this. And all ducting must be as air tight as possible, as to reduce any dust distribution.

All fans must be speed monitored, and controlled in real time as to not let anything over heat. And the projector needs to be designed to quickly shut itself off should anything fail, lest something burn out.

All of this needs to be inside the projector, and packed as tightly as possible, as overall size should be as small as possible. People don't want big or heavy home theatre projectors. No space should be wasted.

Oh, and all of this? It needs to be whisper quiet. The quieter the better. In a theatre, outside noise is to be eliminated at all costs. You need it to be as quiet as literally possible. Much of the measure of the quality and design of a projector comes from how quiet it is. So all fans need to be very efficient, both normally quiet and acoustically dampened, RPM's optomized, etc.

Hopefully, you're starting to get the picture. Designing a good cooling system for a projector like this is not only a difficult engineering challenge, but also, has a lot to do with whether that projector will even be sold well or recommended. Noisy and huge projectors get left on the shelf.

OK wow, that got to be a long post. I'm going to put the teardown and images in a second post, i'll put up shortly!
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Last edited by Protonus; 04-06-2015 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 04-06-2015, 01:07 PM
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An Epson owner chiming in, though I've got the earlier 8100 version. I've developed the distorted/burned polarizer blob of failure on my screen, a pinkish 2 foot blob that gets darker and darker. Googled and looked it up and tore my projector apart. Found the offending polarizer with help from a thread on this forum, but can't do anything about it. I've decided to buy a new projector, and looking on the Epson threads, there seems to be a lot of issues after a few years usage. I was also buying bulbs every 1000-1200 hours or so.

I'm wondering if the DLP designs are any better for problems free operation. They have no air filters to bother with and I don't read about burnt lens issues. Aside from the rainbow effect, and somewhat louder fans, they seem to last longer, or am I missing something?
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Old 04-06-2015, 01:13 PM
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There's a lot to say about them, so I figure I'll answer any potential questions about them up front:

Thank you for the detailed post. For those of us familiar working inside this class of machine, might be helpful one day. I've archived it.
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Epson 8350 1080p Projector (96") / Panasonic TH-46pz850u 46" 1080p Plasma TV
Onkyo TX-sr607 7.2 HDMI Audio/Video Amplifier/Receiver (630 watts)
Panasonic DMP-BD60 Blu-Ray Disc Player / Cisco 8742hdc DVR (TimeWarner)
Harmony 670 - Universal Remote / HTPC (XMBC/Win7-64) Media Server PC
Polk Audio Monitor Series II Speakers (Large 6.1 Matched Separates) / PSW505 12-Inch Sub
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Old 04-06-2015, 02:06 PM
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Cool

(...continued from last post)

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverJS View Post
If you are indeed changing them, some pictures might indeed be very, very helpful - not only to me, I assume, but to all other owners as this projector ages.
I did indeed, take some pictures, and I made a diagram that I think others will find helpful as well. Gallery here:

First, here is a shot of the internals of the projector, after you've removed the motherboard from the top of it (which has about a dozen electrical connectors and like 8 screws holding it in place):
Original / high res version here: http://i.imgur.com/uAQxWgW.jpg
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Second, this is the same photo, only I've added labels to the various major components of the projector, including the 3 (or 4?) fan locations, Cinema Filter, Auto Iris, etc.

Original / high res version here: http://i.imgur.com/Y75tOMl.jpg
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Lastly, as mentioned above, it was the front exhaust fan I was trying to replace. It ended up being not nearly as bad to replace, as I thought it was going to be. The fan is located inside of ductwork, located in front of the lamp well. I thought I was going to have to take the light engine out to get to it. That is not the case.

There are actually two separate pieces of exhaust ductwork, which sort of slide/lock together. You'll see what I mean when you take them apart. I've labeled them #1 and #2 in the diagram above.

They are both held in places with ~6 black screws, around the outside edge of the duct. One of these screws is buried, down in front of the power supply (you can see a screw sized, half circle opening in the duct at the far right of the diagram above, that's the one). Once these screws are removed, you can begin to wiggle the duct work itself out.

Once the ductwork is out, you can slide off duct #2 . That will leave the duct, that has the fan trapped inside it. The ductwork splits into two halves. This isn't particularly noticeable until you remove the duct to look at it. There are two black screws that secure the halves together, as well as two plastic latches too. I have a picture of one of these latches on the side of the duct, in the picture below. Once you take the two screws out, and open the two latches up enough, you can pull the two halves of the duct apart. There is a silver piece of trim as well, between the two halves. This aligns with screw holes and plastic pegs in the duct (you can see this trim sticking out of the left side of the duct in the picture below)

Original / high res version here:http://i.imgur.com/1fn42kX.jpg
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Now the exhaust fan is exposed and ready to be changed out (see my above post for a link to where you can get it on eBay). The fan is only held in place by friction, provided by 8 neoprene rubber bumpers. Chances are your new fan won't have these rubber bumpers, so you'll need to re-use them. You can very carefully, just simply pull them off the old fan. Just do it slowly, or with heat from a heat gun. Once they are all removed, I attached them to the new fan, using 1/2" Scotch Permanent Double Sided Tape. I cut each piece of tape to the same length as the bumper, then pressed down hard and stuck them to each corner of the fan. This left the little "wings" of the bumpers that go over the front/back of the fan, "hanging" though. To secure those, I used a drop of low temp hot glue, from a hot glue gun on low. Worked perfectly.

Harman Kardon AVR 254 ● Energy Connoisseur C-7 ● Epson PowerLite 8350 ● 100" DIY WA DW w/ 80/20 frame
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Old 04-06-2015, 02:24 PM
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An Epson owner chiming in, though I've got the earlier 8100 version. I've developed the distorted/burned polarizer blob of failure on my screen, a pinkish 2 foot blob that gets darker and darker. Googled and looked it up and tore my projector apart. Found the offending polarizer with help from a thread on this forum, but can't do anything about it. [/QUOTE]

I would buy a used/broken/for parts 8100, and swap the offending component out. Here's one for $10 right now! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Epson-P...item25a3fefd11

Quote:
Originally Posted by audio4life View Post
I was also buying bulbs every 1000-1200 hours or so.
Were you cleaning the filter out every few hundred hours of usage at least? Were you running in high altitude mode (a good idea)? Did you have your bulb set to low / eco brightness (another good idea)?

Were you using OEM / Epson lamp assemblies? Or were you using aftermarket lamps or retrofits?

All of these things have a huge impact on bulb life. Speaking for my 8350 at least, you should have no problem getting 3k hours out of it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by audio4life View Post
I'm wondering if the DLP designs are any better for problems free operation. They have no air filters to bother with and I don't read about burnt lens issues. Aside from the rainbow effect, and somewhat louder fans, they seem to last longer, or am I missing something?
Yes, in general, DLP's are often less trouble. I had a single chip DLP, 720p, Sharp DT-510 that I absolutely loved (that was a freak of a projector too, tons of zoom capability). The bulb was rated for 3k hours. I ran it in eco mode the whole time. I got 7k hours on that original bulb with regular filter cleanings. The bulb started to get some flicker, rather than replace the bulb, I upgraded to my 8350. I cleaned up the Sharp real good, and sold it to a friend. He continued to use that same bulb, with the flicker (it was for his kids) just like I gave it to him, for a whopping, 16,500 hours. No joke. I believe that's the record for that projector. He got a new cheapy aftermarket bulb, and got 2k hours of that one (aftermarket bulbs = not worth the time imho).

That projector was also quiet, light, and tiny. And the black levels were better than my Epson too, even without an auto iris. DLP generally has better blacks. I miss my DLP's blacks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by audio4life View Post
Aside from the rainbow effect, and somewhat louder fans, they seem to last longer, or am I missing something?
Rainbows should be gone on a higher speed color wheel, and/or multi chip DLP.

There are disadvantages. First, you tend to get a lot less adjustment range for a given price point of DLP vs LCD. So if you need a short throw, or lens shift, etc, often times your only option for a certain price range is LCD. That is what I ran into when I bought my Epson 8350. DLP's with lens shift and short throw, just did not exist yet in 1080p, a few years ago, for under $1500. I had a requirement of short throw since I needed to throw a 100" image in about 12 feet of throw in order to maintain my prior setup.

Another disadvantage is brightness and color vibrancy. My Epson's colors are much more vivid, bright, etc. They really pop. My Epson is way, way brighter than my DLP was. In fact, the 8350 is one of the brightest projectors I've ever used, at any price range. It's a damn light cannon on dynamic, almost unusably bright. Yet it's also a lower wattage bulb. A lower wattage bulb tends to last longer, than a higher wattage one. And DLP's usually use higher wattage bulbs.

Harman Kardon AVR 254 ● Energy Connoisseur C-7 ● Epson PowerLite 8350 ● 100" DIY WA DW w/ 80/20 frame
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Old 04-06-2015, 08:00 PM
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Protonus, thanks for your thoughts. My 8100 must be a slight lemon, because I ran it in eco mode, cleaned the filter(bought new filters too) and went through bulbs every 9 to 11 months or so. The colors were only good for about the first 2 months, then the bulb would be on the decline and vibrancy would go south. This is the second LCD projector I've owned(Hitachi) and the first was underwhelming as well. They do seem high maintenance with the filters and running in lower modes.

People rave about the Benq 1070 and the newer 1075 and they are so cheap with reported great colors and brightness. I'd take another chance on the 8350 or 8345 but feel like with the money I've spent on bulbs Epson doesn't deserve my business. My current distance from screen is 12 feet and I've got a 108" diagonal on my screen. I'm still shortlisting models, but I do feel put off of LCD based projectors.
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:44 PM
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The 8345 is connected to a Dish receiver that functions as a dvr with a external harddrive. I have a HDnet test pattern saved on the hard drive. The box is no longer recognizing the hard drive. I ordered a external case to install the bare drive in, hoping it's the drives usb adaptor that's bad. I'm holding off on pictures till I get that working, or not. Without the external drive I can't even pause an image. I don't have a BluRay calibration disk. I have a HDDVD disk but can't find it. I did find a camera that's been missing since September.
I ordered a $13 ceiling mount on eBay. I'll post how that works out.
I need to get the CRT down cus it's in the way. The 8345 will be behind it.
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Old 04-11-2015, 09:40 AM
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So I decided to cut my losses with this projector. I had called Epson to see if they could offer me any hints on what the issue might be before I tried to repair it myself. They could offer nothing besides the phone number of a service center. A couple of weeks later they phoned me back asking if my experience with their customer service had been satisfactory and if my issue had been resolved. It was nice of them to call, but I've gone thru 5 bulbs in 5 years and now a polarizer is shot, which after spending several hundred to fix, I'd be left with a projector that has about 6200 hours on it and who knows when a fan would go, etc.

So after researching my options I went with the Benq HT1075. No way was I going to give Epson another chance after this experience. I'll get the Benq in a few days, and I'm expecting it to be a little sharper and brighter with 3D thrown in.
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Old 04-11-2015, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audio4life View Post
So I decided to cut my losses with this projector. I had called Epson to see if they could offer me any hints on what the issue might be before I tried to repair it myself. They could offer nothing besides the phone number of a service center. A couple of weeks later they phoned me back asking if my experience with their customer service had been satisfactory and if my issue had been resolved. It was nice of them to call, but I've gone thru 5 bulbs in 5 years and now a polarizer is shot, which after spending several hundred to fix, I'd be left with a projector that has about 6200 hours on it and who knows when a fan would go, etc.

So after researching my options I went with the Benq HT1075. No way was I going to give Epson another chance after this experience. I'll get the Benq in a few days, and I'm expecting it to be a little sharper and brighter with 3D thrown in.
The 8100 was notoriously bad when it came to bulb life. The 8350 was fine with bulb life as long as you kept it in high altitude mode. I don't think your projector was a lemon. It's just how these projectors performed. Epson should have just given all 8100 owners free bulbs for the life of the projector. (An expensive solution, i know. But losing loyal customers and the bad word of mouth that goes with it is an even bigger loss.) This poor bulb life problem wasn't really resolved until Epson released the 8345.
With your blue polarizer starting to fail, I agree that you should not throw good money in having the projector repaired.
Although I'm now using the Epson hc3000, I've had a lot of time using and fiddling around with the Benq projectors. I can tell you from personal experience that you've made a very good move in going with the Benq1075. The Benq is noticeably sharper and brighter with a slightly better black level as well. Right away you'll be struck by how much smaller and lighter the ht1075 is compared to your 8100. On the downside, the 1075 is quite a bit louder and has very limited placement flexibility. But overall, I believe you'll be very happy with your purchase. Good luck.
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Old 04-11-2015, 02:29 PM
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Thanks for your comments, it's kind of surprising that it took Epson 3 projectors to really get it right, and they had to dial back the 8345 a little bit at that. At any rate, I've heard that the Benq may be loud(the 8100 had also gotten somewhat louder over time) so I'm prepared to make some kind of a hush box if needed. We'll see in a few days.
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Old 04-12-2015, 09:28 PM
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Hi,

My TW3600 projector is turning off when used in Dynamic mode. The lens makes a shifting/rotating noise (like the one when you power up the projector, around the lens not the fan) about 5 mins into the viewing and turns off. Both the lamp and temp light blink red simultaneously.

If I view it on Cinema mode, its absolutely fine and doesn't make the lens doesnt make the shifting/rotating noise. I ran it for 3-4 hours yesterday without any issues multiple times.
I really want to go back to Dynamic mode as Cinema is way way too dark for my room which has some ambient light. The bulb only has 1700 hours on it.

Projector is 2+ years old.

Any suggestions/insight? Anybody experienced similar issues? I can provide more details if necessary

Thank you
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:09 AM
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Well another strike for me with Epson. My 8350 now dims and brightens in Eco mode. Normal mode is fine, and switching back to normal, then back to Eco fixes the issue temporarily. The issue returns a few days later. This projector really is a piece of garbage, it's always something.

I may just run it in normal, when the bulb pops I going to junk this projector and cut my losses. No one should have to go through 3 replacement projectors in a years time. Epson has a great warranty but man these projectors are just one issue after the other.

Kuro'd
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:16 AM
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Hi everyone -

I've poured through pages on this thread but can't find an issue similar to mine. It very well may be my own ignorance or stupidity but hopefully one of you friendly folks can help me out here...

Just got a house with media room that was pre-wired. Ceiling-mounted 8350 has HDMI running through ceiling to room behind screen where I have a Yamaha RX A740 setup. Picture/video feed works from projector to receiver...but it's only displaying in 480p resolution. This despite the fact that the only I/O I have connected from projector to receiver is an HDMI cord, and I was using a Blu-Ray player with Blu-Ray disc connected via HDMI to receiver to test video quality.

Am I missing some setting here or is there potentially something wrong with the projecter where it is not outputting at 1080p when I am using best possible video sources? I went through all menu options on the 8350 including resetting memory/settings as well as trying HDMI2 port on the projector but it continues to display what should be 1080p content only in 480p.

Any assistance with this issue would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:33 AM
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I'd take a look at the BR player and the disc -- is it BR or DVD? Is the player somehow set to 480p not 1080p? Hook the player DIRECTLY to the 8350 with a 6' HDMI cable and see what it does -- this will eliminate ant video processing settings of the Yammy. It will also allow you to look for switches on the BR player and/or menus causing the non-1080p output.
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Old 04-20-2015, 12:22 PM
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Built a 104" borderless 2.35:1 screen for my 8350. 16:9 is so last week.

Home Theater Subreddit: http://www.reddit.com/r/hometheater/ AV Recommendations Subreddit: http://www.reddit.com/r/zeos
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:11 PM
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I picked up one of these refurbished and I have to admit for a gaming and HDTV projector it's a darn good buy.

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Old 05-08-2015, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikr1 View Post
I picked up one of these refurbished and I have to admit for a gaming and HDTV projector it's a darn good buy.

Attachment 705810
I know the Epson isn't a small projector, but that JVC is a beast! Glad you enjoy the 8350. I have an 8345 myself. I know the Epson isn't in the same league as a JVC, but if you get a chance, could you show pictures of each them with similar material/movie shots to compare?

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Old 05-13-2015, 04:27 AM
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Talk about late to the party. I just got my Refurb 8345 from Visual Apex ($549 + tax). I ordered it last Monday and it arrived last Wednesday, on the same UPS truck as my 40' HDMI cable and port saver and 5-port Sabrent HDMI switch. Rear shelf mounted where my Sanyo PLV-Z4 used to be (RIP - 2013). Looks perfect; super sharp, no convergence issues. And wow is it bright. My living room has some good light control, but it is not a cave during the day, and we can easily watch most stuff in Natural or Cinema mode.

I'm just shooting onto a blackout cloth pinned to the wall right now, but I am hopefully going to get some time over the summer to build a frame for either a BOC or Sintra screen. I've got about a 106" image from 16' or so. And my wife still says, "Wow that's bright."

Blu-Ray of course looks great, but I was really impressed with how my SD Xvid and mp4 content looks running through my hacked AppleTV running Crytalbuntu/XBMC.

We're over 60 hours already. She put in some serious Bioshock time on Saturday.

Now I just have to re-read through all 302 pages of posts and figure out all of the in depth settings to get the most out of my setup.

Thanks for all of the input, and keep it coming.
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Old Today, 10:15 PM
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Talk about late to the party. I just got my Refurb 8345 from Visual Apex ($549 + tax).
I also picked up an 8345 from Visual Apex. After years with DLP projectors, this is my first 3-LCD projector.

I expected the image would be a little softer than my DLPs, but there is a noticeable convergence "issue". I can't really notice it during most video content, but it's noticeable on the desktop/menus/logos etc.



What mystifies me is that my wife, who doesn't notice the rainbow effect or the soap opera effect and is the kind of person who could watch content at the wrong aspect ratio and not notice, immediately picked up on this and claims it makes her feel weird.

So what should I do? Right now the projector isn't setup in it's final location, is there a chance that changing zoom/lens shift a little might fix the convergence? I would like the keep the model. Should I try the Epson lottery?

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