The Offical Epson 8350 Owners Thread - Page 305 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9121 of 9142 Old 07-20-2015, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protonus View Post
I thought that quote you (mis)quoted (wasn't attributed to me) sounded familiar... searched, yeah, that's what I wrote lol.

I stand by my original comment, but will expand on it for you...
Awesome. Thanks for taking the time to go more in depth.

I have a fully light controlled room, and thus I do not need a light cannon. The main annoyance of the DT-510 is the (in my opinion) poor black levels, even on eco-mode and high-contrast iris. There's no black, more of a dark blue/grey that I see. I guess I need to go beyond the 8350 level to get what I want.
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post #9122 of 9142 Old 07-20-2015, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Protonus View Post
I'm not sure I'd recommend spraying directly onto the LCD's at all, especially with compressed air cans, as they can spray liquid cyanogen and freeze components. The LCD's aren't the most robust things, and, we have no convergence adjustment on this projector, which means if you misalign one of the LCD's in the process or move it at all, your convergence will be wrong.

I would do as the person you quoted recommends, just spray down thru the slots in the motherboard where the LCD connectors are, from the top. After all you're talking about simply removing dust. Just moving air thru that cavity will dislodge a lot of the dust. Doing anything further is going to require removing the motherboard, which, if you're not comfortable repairing modern electronics, will be intimidating to say the lest. When you spray down that slot, use a straw, and make sure the can is upright, so that it doesn't spray any liquid out.

Or better yet, use a powered air duster like this one (I have this one, and love it. It's a must have IMHO if you own a projector or maintain PC's, great for cleaning filters or anything else): http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-E.../dp/B001J4ZOAW
Thanks, you raise some very good points including the potential to mess up the convergence, which as far as i can tell currently is pretty good on mine. I'll check out this blower, makes sense as opposed to the dusters (and seems like it would be really helpful to clean out my PC)
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post #9123 of 9142 Old 07-20-2015, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentJ20 View Post
Awesome. Thanks for taking the time to go more in depth.

I have a fully light controlled room, and thus I do not need a light cannon. The main annoyance of the DT-510 is the (in my opinion) poor black levels, even on eco-mode and high-contrast iris. There's no black, more of a dark blue/grey that I see. I guess I need to go beyond the 8350 level to get what I want.
No problem. But yeah, if you don't think the DT-510 has enough blacks, you're really not going to like 8350 then.

That said, it sounds like you might want a gray screen. The DT-510's blacks are actually very good, for an entry level, digital projector. It sounds like you are expecting blacks like you'll get out of an old, analog, 3 CRT projector, which is just not going to happen on a digital projector unless you spend a ton of cash. Digital projectors in general, are sacrificing blacks for resolution and brightness/vibrance.

May also want to try bias lighting (light behind the screen), as well as black velvet borders on your screen.

You might want to look into a higher end 3 DLP chip projector as the replacement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dude2006 View Post
Thanks, you raise some very good points including the potential to mess up the convergence, which as far as i can tell currently is pretty good on mine. I'll check out this blower, makes sense as opposed to the dusters (and seems like it would be really helpful to clean out my PC)
Just be careful when you use it. It's very, very powerful. Have a good grip on it the first time you turn it on!

Harman Kardon AVR 254 ● Energy Connoisseur C-7 ● Epson PowerLite 8350 ● 100" DIY WA DW w/ 80/20 frame
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post #9124 of 9142 Old 07-20-2015, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Protonus View Post
No problem. But yeah, if you don't think the DT-510 has enough blacks, you're really not going to like 8350 then.

That said, it sounds like you might want a gray screen. The DT-510's blacks are actually very good, for an entry level, digital projector. It sounds like you are expecting blacks like you'll get out of an old, analog, 3 CRT projector, which is just not going to happen on a digital projector unless you spend a ton of cash. Digital projectors in general, are sacrificing blacks for resolution and brightness/vibrance.

May also want to try bias lighting (light behind the screen), as well as black velvet borders on your screen.

You might want to look into a higher end 3 DLP chip projector as the replacement.
You're the first person who has given me a good comparison of the DT-510 vs others, so I'm coming to new conclusions. Since most reasonably affordable projectors seem to put out so much light, I'll be looking into a gray screen. I'll also be trying to talk the wife into a budget that allows something in the epson "UB/ultra black" category or similar.

Anyways, don't want to get too off topic in this thread. Thanks for the info.
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post #9125 of 9142 Old 07-24-2015, 12:56 PM
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Hey guys,

I did a search and I've seen a few posts about green spots and multiple white spots, but I've got an issue with a single white spot.

I don't even know if I would call it a white spot, it's just more lit. Almost dead center, top third of the screen; it's like a little flashlight is shining there. It's like it's glowing.

It only happen on straight black screens, like on the no input screen or when HBO Go is loading. I've yet to notice during a movie scene that's dark. All that being said, I'd like to fix it possible. My warranty is up and even if it wasn't, all Epson ever did was send me other faulty projectors. This one held up for 2 months before I noticed this.

Any idea why I'm having this white spot on my image?

Thanks.
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post #9126 of 9142 Old 07-31-2015, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.T.Nest View Post
My room:


Please help me understand how to find the optimum throw distance for the 8350 for my 15' x 22'4" room. This is my first projector, and I really hope to get this right the first time.

How important is staying in the "green zone" using the Projector Central calculator?

It looks as if they're recommending a throw distance of 14-18 feet for a 109" image to stay in the green zone. Moving the throw distance slider to below a 14' throw distances takes you into the red zone, "Recommended for image brightness for rooms with ambient light." When they say it that way, it seems kinda bad.

But unless I'm misunderstanding the posts I've been reading here, experts on the forum such as MississippiMan seem to recommend a shorter throw distance to achieve optimum brightness.

As I posted last month, I bought a used projector and 109" 16x9 Elite motorized screen with (I believe) 1.1 gain.

My first row viewing distance will be 11' plus or minus an inch or two depending on exact screen placement. The second row will be ~16', and if I can squeeze it in, an eventual third row "Cinebar" will be about 19 or 20'.

Light is pretty well controlled. Windows in the room have blackout curtains. There is some light coming from an adjacent space where we have not yet hung curtains over the daylight basement entry door and its side light window. We already have blackout curtains for that location, so that problem will soon be fixed. The screen wall and the first four feet of the side walls and ceiling are flat black (Valspar Cracked Pepper). The rest of the room is painted a flat medium gray (Valspar Vessel Gray). The carpet is black. All of the furniture is black.

One concern is whether I would be happy with the 8350's brightness from the 14' throw distance range recommended by the Projector Central calculator.

Another consideration is that I'd like to preserve my option to upgrading to a wider, acoustically transparent screen sometime in the future without having to relocate the projector mount, run longer cables, etc. The AT screen would allow much better center speaker placement and a wider (130"?) image, but it would also shorten the viewing distance to the front row to about 9'. I'm concerned that might be too close for comfort for such a large screen.

I appreciate any suggestions you might have.
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post #9127 of 9142 Old 08-01-2015, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terd View Post
Hey guys,

I did a search and I've seen a few posts about green spots and multiple white spots, but I've got an issue with a single white spot.

I don't even know if I would call it a white spot, it's just more lit. Almost dead center, top third of the screen; it's like a little flashlight is shining there. It's like it's glowing.

It only happen on straight black screens, like on the no input screen or when HBO Go is loading. I've yet to notice during a movie scene that's dark. All that being said, I'd like to fix it possible. My warranty is up and even if it wasn't, all Epson ever did was send me other faulty projectors. This one held up for 2 months before I noticed this.

Any idea why I'm having this white spot on my image?

Thanks.
Do a search for dust blobs within the 8350 thread, you will find lots of info.
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post #9128 of 9142 Old 08-02-2015, 09:14 AM
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So you mentioned basement and that typically means losing 6-10 inches on ceiling height. You also mentioned a riser which appears to be under your 14 foot mark (loss of another 6-8 inches??). You never showed/nor discussed the elevation view of your setup. You need to consider distance top to bottom for interference from seating/people and bottom of projector clearance as well as noise/"bump zone/WAF/...... Also the vertical relationship of the top/bottom of the screen to the center of the projector lens is important (just as left to right is which appears fine if you're going dead on center.

I have a rather small room and ended up mounting my P off center and lower to avoid all the things I mentioned above. for ME, I found the place closest to the screen for the maximum size I would want that was most out of the area of use while watching and least likely to be bumped/moved in general room use. That's right, it was a very subjective decision but planted in the data found at pages 13 and 25 here https://files.support.epson.com/pdf/.../plhc87uug.pdf

I thought I remembered that Epson had a placement program on their website when I installed mine but that was a few years ago. If you haven't looked, I'd do that as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by M.T.Nest View Post
Please help me understand how to find the optimum throw distance for the 8350 for my 15' x 22'4" room. This is my first projector, and I really hope to get this right the first time.

How important is staying in the "green zone" using the Projector Central calculator?

It looks as if they're recommending a throw distance of 14-18 feet for a 109" image to stay in the green zone. Moving the throw distance slider to below a 14' throw distances takes you into the red zone, "Recommended for image brightness for rooms with ambient light." When they say it that way, it seems kinda bad.

But unless I'm misunderstanding the posts I've been reading here, experts on the forum such as MississippiMan seem to recommend a shorter throw distance to achieve optimum brightness.

As I posted last month, I bought a used projector and 109" 16x9 Elite motorized screen with (I believe) 1.1 gain.

My first row viewing distance will be 11' plus or minus an inch or two depending on exact screen placement. The second row will be ~16', and if I can squeeze it in, an eventual third row "Cinebar" will be about 19 or 20'.

Light is pretty well controlled. Windows in the room have blackout curtains. There is some light coming from an adjacent space where we have not yet hung curtains over the daylight basement entry door and its side light window. We already have blackout curtains for that location, so that problem will soon be fixed. The screen wall and the first four feet of the side walls and ceiling are flat black (Valspar Cracked Pepper). The rest of the room is painted a flat medium gray (Valspar Vessel Gray). The carpet is black. All of the furniture is black.

One concern is whether I would be happy with the 8350's brightness from the 14' throw distance range recommended by the Projector Central calculator.

Another consideration is that I'd like to preserve my option to upgrading to a wider, acoustically transparent screen sometime in the future without having to relocate the projector mount, run longer cables, etc. The AT screen would allow much better center speaker placement and a wider (130"?) image, but it would also shorten the viewing distance to the front row to about 9'. I'm concerned that might be too close for comfort for such a large screen.

I appreciate any suggestions you might have.

Last edited by rakstr; 08-02-2015 at 09:20 AM.
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post #9129 of 9142 Old 08-03-2015, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rakstr View Post
So you mentioned basement and that typically means losing 6-10 inches on ceiling height. You also mentioned a riser which appears to be under your 14 foot mark (loss of another 6-8 inches??). You never showed/nor discussed the elevation view of your setup. You need to consider distance top to bottom for interference from seating/people and bottom of projector clearance as well as noise/"bump zone/WAF/...... Also the vertical relationship of the top/bottom of the screen to the center of the projector lens is important (just as left to right is which appears fine if you're going dead on center.

I have a rather small room and ended up mounting my P off center and lower to avoid all the things I mentioned above. for ME, I found the place closest to the screen for the maximum size I would want that was most out of the area of use while watching and least likely to be bumped/moved in general room use. That's right, it was a very subjective decision but planted in the data found at pages 13 and 25 here https://files.support.epson.com/pdf/.../plhc87uug.pdf

I thought I remembered that Epson had a placement program on their website when I installed mine but that was a few years ago. If you haven't looked, I'd do that as well.
Thanks, Rakstr,

I should have addressed the vertical dimension.

The ceiling in the space is eight feet high. The riser for the second row is seven inches high, built to ensure an unobstructed view of the current 65" plasma display. Because the riser is not attached to the floor, I can make it taller if necessary. Another option might be an additional inch or so tall mini riser just under the seats themselves. (I stole that last idea from BigMouthInDC over in the theater builder sub forum.

I did try the Epson projector calculator just the other day. Mostly I've seen references to the one I cited, though.
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post #9130 of 9142 Old 08-04-2015, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
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M.T.Nest,

Furgitabowdt P.C.'s "Green Zone". It only shows what is to be considered a general rule that depends upon "all" the variables that exist between different PJs and their Focus / Lensing attributes, and Resolution. It makes no distinction except for Lumen output = Foot lambert as relates to Screen gain. In that respect it's just about giving one the mid-point between the brightest and dimmest image.

Now as far as Screens go, if you posses a Mfg AT screen whose weave or perforations are too obviously seen within a give seating distance, that itself might / would be a distinction to consider. And...unfortunately that has always been the case, forcing most to place seating at a distance that was further than desired to avoid the visual issues.

PJs with high Resolution do not introduce aberrations such as Morie nearly as much as low Resolution PJs do. PJs with pronounced SDE (Screen Door Effect) will create Morie much easier. All that means choosing wisely as far as your AT material is paramount.

It seems that for now, you don't have to worry about "AT" related issues, but down the road...you might. So here is the skinny for future proofing for up to 130" diagonal.

13' 9" Throw for the current 109" diagonal Opaque screen as well as the future 130" diagonal AT screen

A 130" diagonal screen is 9' 5" wide. If you build your AT Screen Wall from White over Silver Milliskin Spandex and your resulting gain is 0.85, you'll have 15 foot lambert of brightness. Your ratio of viewing distance to screen width will be just under 1:1

Now yes, that is close....but excessive gain / brightness will not be the issue. Your 2nd row will become the optimal row for those who do not like the "total immersion" experience, but what with the impeccably smooth, pristine image the Spandex will present, I'm betting some will actually fight for the Front Row seats.

PS...with the 8350's extreme Lens Shift range, if you choose the right Mount you can keep the overall drop from the ceiling down to 7" maximum. That leaves 7' 5" from the floor, and even with a 10" riser (recommended) that will leave 6' 5" height....plenty IMO.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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post #9131 of 9142 Old 08-04-2015, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
M.T.Nest,

Furgitabowdt P.C.'s "Green Zone". It only shows what is to be considered a general rule that depends upon "all" the variables that exist between different PJs and their Focus / Lensing attributes, and Resolution. It makes no distinction except for Lumen output = Foot lambert as relates to Screen gain. In that respect it's just about giving one the mid-point between the brightest and dimmest image.

Now as far as Screens go, if you posses a Mfg AT screen whose weave or perforations are too obviously seen within a give seating distance, that itself might / would be a distinction to consider. And...unfortunately that has always been the case, forcing most to place seating at a distance that was further than desired to avoid the visual issues.

PJs with high Resolution do not introduce aberrations such as Morie nearly as much as low Resolution PJs do. PJs with pronounced SDE (Screen Door Effect) will create Morie much easier. All that means choosing wisely as far as your AT material is paramount.

It seems that for now, you don't have to worry about "AT" related issues, but down the road...you might. So here is the skinny for future proofing for up to 130" diagonal.

13' 9" Throw for the current 109" diagonal Opaque screen as well as the future 130" diagonal AT screen

A 130" diagonal screen is 9' 5" wide. If you build your AT Screen Wall from White over Silver Milliskin Spandex and your resulting gain is 0.85, you'll have 15 foot lambert of brightness. Your ratio of viewing distance to screen width will be just under 1:1

Now yes, that is close....but excessive gain / brightness will not be the issue. Your 2nd row will become the optimal row for those who do not like the "total immersion" experience, but what with the impeccably smooth, pristine image the Spandex will present, I'm betting some will actually fight for the Front Row seats.

PS...with the 8350's extreme Lens Shift range, if you choose the right Mount you can keep the overall drop from the ceiling down to 7" maximum. That leaves 7' 5" from the floor, and even with a 10" riser (recommended) that will leave 6' 5" height....plenty IMO.
Thanks very much, MississippiMan.

I left out the info on my ceiling mount. I don't know what brand or model this is, but the seller was very proud of it. It measures 10" from the base to the projector case.



Please excuse the poor PQ. I went down to measure the mount during my lunch break and decided to snap this picture with my phone while I was at it.

I guess what I really need to decide is whether I should mount the PJ far enough back to support a larger screen later, sacrificing brightness now, or mount it at an optimally close throw distance now and relocate it later whenever the time comes to upgrade the screen.

Regarding the concern about being too close for comfortable viewing, I might be able to shave a foot or so off the 24" I had proposed for the AT screen wall depth. Because of the 75" wide bumped out area in the middle of that wall, deeper components such as the subwoofer (subwoofers?) could be placed toward the center, where there is an additional 24" or so of depth under the first floor fireplace's chimney chaseway. So, if we keep our seating in the same location, we could lose as little as a foot of viewing distance from the front row, making it about ten feet instead of the nine feet I had mentioned earlier.

Fortunately, I will be able to choose future AT screen fabric to avoid problems with being able to see the weave.

Last edited by M.T.Nest; 08-04-2015 at 03:50 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #9132 of 9142 Old 08-07-2015, 01:08 PM
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Bulb Change

Good afternoon everyone!!

I went about 4 years and 3000+ hours on my original bulb on the Epson 8350. So I bought a replacement from Epson and put it in last night...so after I replaced it...the video had about 4 lines through the display...all in the top half of the display. So EPSON is sending me a new bulb. But I noticed others in this thread mention something like this but not exactly. I am attaching a pic to see if anyone has seen anything like this?!?!?

Kevin
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post #9133 of 9142 Old 08-29-2015, 07:02 PM
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My 8350 is driving me nuts. It will not recognition my inputs. It just shows no input in the lower left screen no matter what I chose. I can go back and forth from hdmi 1 and 2 with no difference. The source is an opportunity 105.
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post #9134 of 9142 Old 08-29-2015, 08:37 PM
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My 8350 is driving me nuts. It will not recognition my inputs. It just shows no input in the lower left screen no matter what I chose. I can go back and forth from hdmi 1 and 2 with no difference. The source is an opportunity 105.
You mean Oppo 105?

Not to sound simple-minded, but have you tried another HDMI cable?
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post #9135 of 9142 Old 08-30-2015, 07:53 PM
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I sure haven't. I'm terrified it might be that. I would hate to have to rewire it in the attick.
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post #9136 of 9142 Old 08-30-2015, 07:55 PM
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Yes Oppo105. Damn auto correct.
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post #9137 of 9142 Old Yesterday, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilgore View Post
You mean Oppo 105?

Not to sound simple-minded, but have you tried another HDMI cable?
Tried it. Did not work with the Oppo 105 but did work with the laptop, directv and Mac. That suggests it's the Oppo. Tried the old cable with the Mac, laptop and Directv. Did not work which suggests it's the cable. I read others having the exact same problem with this projector.
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post #9138 of 9142 Old Yesterday, 12:10 PM
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My 8350 was working fine now it will not power up. I press the button and it blinks blue and then the tab right below blinks nothing else. Any thoughts of what it may be.
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post #9139 of 9142 Old Yesterday, 03:27 PM
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Is the bulb old?
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post #9140 of 9142 Old Yesterday, 06:07 PM
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I don't think so it will not project light so I cant access the menu damn it just might be.

Suggestions on where to get a bulb
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post #9141 of 9142 Unread Today, 05:27 AM
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I think I got my last one off of Amazon or something. Did it give you any messages saying the bulb was old?
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post #9142 of 9142 Unread Today, 05:39 AM
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No it will not project any light it blinks on than the 2nd tab below the power button lights up and I believe the lamp light flashes
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