My knowledge is limited too, but worth to try with what I have. As for the Power Boards, I think they`ve got a kind of common faults, i.e. capacitors or thyristors or something. So, I just decided to check them all and was Ok with capacitors. If replacing thyristors won't help, I will bring this Power Board to a service centre (hope to get circuit diagram from Tech Support before).
As you noticed, there are different power supplies from the Power Board. One is 12V and it powers the Main Board and looks like in my and your cases it works fine. But the High Voltage part (120-380VDC) is not Ok. That is why we have main board running (blue light comes from it), but it does not start LBD because of no power on the HV socket from the Power Board.
And I really hope it is that simple, will see.
Are any of you using the 12V trigger output on this projector? If so, what kind of cable are you using?
The trigger plug on the projector requires a 3.5mm DC barrel rather than like a 3.5mm audio connector that is common on most other projectors and screens.
I never looked. It's kind of a weird choice of plug, though.
In other news, I've now passed the 6,000-hour mark on the original lamp. At 6,135 hours now, it's definitely lost its initial brightness and I've boosted the brightness and contrast up to 70 to compensate in a fully lit, curtains-open daylight room. Evening viewing with the curtains closed is still fine, but I'm starting to miss the pop and shine of the first few thousand hours. I'm not complaining, as this is the best, brightest and longest lasting projector for the money I've owned since I brought my first one back in my luggage from Japan in the early '90s, but I am wondering when would be a good time to swap in a new lamp.
Yes, that kind. The product specs say it is "3.5mm (12V/1A)", but maybe the engineers didn't realize what kind of plug the product manager wanted?
I'm guessing if I replace one end of a 3.5mm audio cable with this plug, it should work.
I still own the Pro8200 and use it on occassion in one room. I just ordered a new lamp for $79.00. It says it is the original OSRAM bulb.
I decided to try there, rather than from http://www.myprojectorlamps.ca/projector-lamps/Viewsonic/PRO8200.html, which I've been very satisfied with in the past and would recommend, for two reasons in this circumstance:
- I may want to upgrade to the Viewsonic PJD7820HD you recommend, also a light cannon plus 3D, in the near future.
- Sometimes, I let my inner cheap bastard out.
For the most part, it's gotten easier to get REAL bulbs as long as it says Osram or Philips, but it used to be harder with lots of scammer misrepresenting, and there still are some, but not as bad.
It's fairly easy to tell if its the same bulb when you receive the lamp, just compare it to the original. Fakes will generally look different in the element or on the markings. There really is no reason to buy a new housing unless you scratched it or the housing has too many burn marks (happens sometimes from heat).
Replacing it from the housing wasn't too bad, but it was a little tricky. Took me about 45 minutes, but I was being careful. If I had to do it again, could probably do it in 15-20.
Anyhow, I think it's fine. Heck of a deal for $80.
A couple of tips/ observations that might help anyone trying this:
- The place I ended up ordering from turned out to be OK. They actually have a kind of anti-ripoff, buyer protection plan whereby they hold your payment in escrow until you've received shipment and either confirm right away you're satisfied or let 10 days or so elapse after delivery without a complaint from the customer, then release the funds.
- Delivery was reasonably quick, considering the lamp seems to originate in a factory in Guangdong. I got it last week so it took about two and a half weeks. Not bad for free shipping.
- If the lamps are not the actual OEM, they sure as heck look the part. The proof is in the pudding, though, so more on actual performance later. The original is on the left and the replacement is on the right.
- Just flying by the seat of my pants, I started removing all the 7 Phillips screws inside the bottom of the machine, thinking to get at the lamp. No go, of course, so I finally decide to RTFM (p. 38) and discover the single little black Phillips screw on the side to access the lamp housing. Trying to lift the plastic cover also wasn't working so I break down and yet again. The cover slides out toward the front of the projector.
- Once you unscrew the two more Phillips screws holding the housing down and gently pull it up and out, you'll need one or more good quality little tiny Phillips screwdrivers, because there are quite a few different little Phillips screws, some of them tiny and tight, that you need to remove, along with gently rocking the lamp's electrical leads out, in order to finally get the lamp itself out of the housing. As with any disassembling operation, take careful note of how everything is put together before you take it apart, so you can reassemble it correctly and completely later. One thing I wasn't sure about when putting the replacement lamp into the housing was which orientation the connecting leads should go, so I kept rotating the lamp clockwise and counterclockwise to make it connect back to the two wires positioned with what I tried to determine were their original bends and kinks. However, a saving grace was that there is actually a little notch in the lamp that sort of clicks into place into the thin aluminum frame (bottom left in the picture) holding the lamp inside the housing when it's positioned to put its four tiny screws back in.
- When I first put it all back together, put it back up, plugged everything back in and fired it up, it started to light up slightly, but I couldn't hear any fans spinning, and within 30 seconds the projector shut down and wouldn't power up anymore. I tried unplugging the power cord, plugging it back in and starting the projector up again three or four times, but it did the same thing. Great, I thought, either I got a dud or defective knockoff lamp, or I've killed my Pro8200 with my homespun maintenance. Then, I kind of jostled the projector and it finally started firing up properly. Whew!
- And now -- drum roll -- the results:
Although I very much appreciate that the original lamp went for about 6,500 hours, this replacement lamp change is TOTALLY worth it. Even with ECO mode now back on, which it hadn't been for the past couple thousand hours, the original brightness and pop are absolutely back.
Pop, pop, pop!
Hop on pop!
Last edited by Odingod; 09-27-2014 at 02:04 AM.
Recently, I've been having what appears to be overheating issues. I suspect the exhaust fan is not working as well as it should.
When I start the projector, the exhaust fan seems to be stuck. If I tap on the projector above it, I can usually get it to start. Once it was spinning, it kept spinning. For a while this was working, but after a while, even when I got the fan running, the lamp would shut-off (it was getting super hot). So I put a small floor fan on the other side of the projector now, and if I get the exhaust fan started, this setup allows me to use the projector without it shutting down. This all leads to me to believe there's a problem with the exhaust fan.
I checked my lamp life, and was just over 5000 hours, so I know I have to change the bulb soon, but didn't want to invest the money unless I knew that was the issue.
Does anyone have any ideas? How can I access that exhaust fan? I've tried removing the 8 or so screws on the bottom, but there must be something I'm missing bc I can't get the thing open, almost, but not quite, didn't want to break it.
Could the old lamp be causing any overheating issues? I'd like to open it up and mess with the exhaust fan, maybe its just got some small hairs or something causing it not to start right away.
Appreciate any advice
If you are intent on trying to repair the fan in this projector you can pick the service manual for $20 here:
I've dealt with this online service before and they are reputable.
Next you have to locate the replacement fan which seems to be available on the ViewSonic site.
Go into the Support section to search for your fan. They list three different fan parts.
Good luck with your project.
All I Really Need to Know I Learned in
Then, I may try my hand at the bare bulb setup in existing housing when i get a new lamp soon. If I can get away with 200-300 maintenance to get this back working well, it will be worth it to keep it running another 2-3 years. it's still a quality projector
I sent it in just in case I damaged something before the warranty expired. I don't know what the lamp time was. Maybe 3000?
Well, Viewsonic sent it back stating that it was the lamp (needed a new one). I saw the comments on the RMA before getting it back, so I ordered a new bulb.
Lo and behold, the projector fired up when Fedex delivered it!
Viewsonic, you the bomb (giving me a bulb)! Cost me $12 to ship it to them.
I'll swap out the bulb with the one I just bought and keep theirs as a backup, but what great Customer Service. I'm going to buy Viewsonic every chance I get from now on. KUDOS, Viewsonic!
1.- Power Blue LED stays solid
2.- After a couple of seconds Lamp red LED flashes once.
3.- 20 seconds later I hear a loud relay type of click.
4.- <5 secs another click, Power LED turns off.
During this process I never hear the whir sound (fans fail to start).
I replaced the lamp's bulb with a brand new without success.
Does anyone have a fix for this?
I do have the following concerns:
1.- Is the current firmware reliable? I was one of the first owners back when it was just released and my unit always had problems resetting to factory settings (image inverted, quick power off changed to ON, eco mode reverted to normal, etc).
2.- Is it true that shadow detail and picture quality was decreased in newer versions?
It could be the fan that pushes air into the lamp module. Any time the projector doesn't fire the fan does not spin at all.
When it does fire, the fan starts immediately after pressing power. Nonetheless, this doesn't rule out a power supply issue. Once the projector fires, it never shuts down by its own
I'll see if this occurs again since I got my unit back from the factory. I have made changes to ECO, slow fan cool down, mounted projector for inverted image, keystone changes.
Reading plplplpl above, his new bulb didn't fire right up but eventually did. I wonder if your new bulb didn't experience something similar? I guess only time will tell. I have yet to swap out my bulbs, so I'll report back if I experience a similar effect.
Last edited by SpinControl; 02-16-2015 at 09:19 AM.
I don't know if it could be my lamp housing; it stills looks in good condition and the terminals are making good contact with the bulb. Maybe switching the polarity or making them grasp the bulb tighter could fix it.
I'm puzzled about this since I also own a Panasonic AE900 which sometimes fails to fire when I don't use it in a long time (it's ceiling installed in my old room at my parent's house). Even if the lamp on the panny does not strike the first time, the fans DO. I normally tap gently the projector and it fires on the second attempt. I've tried tapping the Viewsonic (also fixed-ceiling mounted) to get it going but it makes no difference. It either starts fine by its own, or both fans and bulb remain completely dead when it doesn't - hit or miss.
I'd prefer not to spend $250 on an original lamp module unless I find evidence that indicates that plastic housings are prone to malfunction on VS units.
Thanks for stepping up
However, I want to ceiling mount it and it is not clear to me if this will work out for my room.
My ceiling is 8' so the projector would probably end up being around 7.5' or so. The wall I want to project on is 17' high so plenty of room but I need to make sure the bottom of the image is at 55" from the floor.
Does anyone know if it will be possible to do this with this machine considering it doesn't have lens shift.
Last edited by voopy; 03-16-2016 at 06:39 PM.
I have a good working 8200 but no remote. The unit is installed over 8' high and I have to get on a chair to turn it on and off.
1; anyone has a remote they might be interested in selling and
2; if anyone knows how I could wire up a little remote power switch so I don't have to get on the chair each time I use it
3; or, if someone might have the remote code which I could program into another remote I might already have.
Thanks very much.
You could perhaps pick up a Logitech Harmony universal remote (lower end models are cheap) and program it using just the projector model number.
I see this projector is supported:
You can check for device support at this link:
BenQ HT2050 Projector; Kodi (on Ubuntu, OpenELEC & S802) via Sony STR-DH540 AVR with Boston Acoustics SoundWare XS SE 5.1 Audio + Jamo 210 Sub. Emby for Mobile Streaming.
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Thanks, yes, I did buy a Harmony but am still interested in finding the original remote if at all possible. There seem to be a lot of these which people have stopped using so hoped someone in this post might be interested in selling their remote which is kind of useless without the PJ.