My knowledge is limited too, but worth to try with what I have. As for the Power Boards, I think they`ve got a kind of common faults, i.e. capacitors or thyristors or something. So, I just decided to check them all and was Ok with capacitors. If replacing thyristors won't help, I will bring this Power Board to a service centre (hope to get circuit diagram from Tech Support before).
As you noticed, there are different power supplies from the Power Board. One is 12V and it powers the Main Board and looks like in my and your cases it works fine. But the High Voltage part (120-380VDC) is not Ok. That is why we have main board running (blue light comes from it), but it does not start LBD because of no power on the HV socket from the Power Board.
And I really hope it is that simple, will see.
Are any of you using the 12V trigger output on this projector? If so, what kind of cable are you using?
The trigger plug on the projector requires a 3.5mm DC barrel rather than like a 3.5mm audio connector that is common on most other projectors and screens.
I never looked. It's kind of a weird choice of plug, though.
In other news, I've now passed the 6,000-hour mark on the original lamp. At 6,135 hours now, it's definitely lost its initial brightness and I've boosted the brightness and contrast up to 70 to compensate in a fully lit, curtains-open daylight room. Evening viewing with the curtains closed is still fine, but I'm starting to miss the pop and shine of the first few thousand hours. I'm not complaining, as this is the best, brightest and longest lasting projector for the money I've owned since I brought my first one back in my luggage from Japan in the early '90s, but I am wondering when would be a good time to swap in a new lamp.
Yes, that kind. The product specs say it is "3.5mm (12V/1A)", but maybe the engineers didn't realize what kind of plug the product manager wanted?
I'm guessing if I replace one end of a 3.5mm audio cable with this plug, it should work.
I still own the Pro8200 and use it on occassion in one room. I just ordered a new lamp for $79.00. It says it is the original OSRAM bulb.
I decided to try there, rather than from http://www.myprojectorlamps.ca/projector-lamps/Viewsonic/PRO8200.html, which I've been very satisfied with in the past and would recommend, for two reasons in this circumstance:
- I may want to upgrade to the Viewsonic PJD7820HD you recommend, also a light cannon plus 3D, in the near future.
- Sometimes, I let my inner cheap bastard out.
For the most part, it's gotten easier to get REAL bulbs as long as it says Osram or Philips, but it used to be harder with lots of scammer misrepresenting, and there still are some, but not as bad.
It's fairly easy to tell if its the same bulb when you receive the lamp, just compare it to the original. Fakes will generally look different in the element or on the markings. There really is no reason to buy a new housing unless you scratched it or the housing has too many burn marks (happens sometimes from heat).
Replacing it from the housing wasn't too bad, but it was a little tricky. Took me about 45 minutes, but I was being careful. If I had to do it again, could probably do it in 15-20.
Anyhow, I think it's fine. Heck of a deal for $80.
A couple of tips/ observations that might help anyone trying this:
- The place I ended up ordering from turned out to be OK. They actually have a kind of anti-ripoff, buyer protection plan whereby they hold your payment in escrow until you've received shipment and either confirm right away you're satisfied or let 10 days or so elapse after delivery without a complaint from the customer, then release the funds.
- Delivery was reasonably quick, considering the lamp seems to originate in a factory in Guangdong. I got it last week so it took about two and a half weeks. Not bad for free shipping.
- If the lamps are not the actual OEM, they sure as heck look the part. The proof is in the pudding, though, so more on actual performance later. The original is on the left and the replacement is on the right.
- Just flying by the seat of my pants, I started removing all the 7 Phillips screws inside the bottom of the machine, thinking to get at the lamp. No go, of course, so I finally decide to RTFM (p. 38) and discover the single little black Phillips screw on the side to access the lamp housing. Trying to lift the plastic cover also wasn't working so I break down and yet again. The cover slides out toward the front of the projector.
- Once you unscrew the two more Phillips screws holding the housing down and gently pull it up and out, you'll need one or more good quality little tiny Phillips screwdrivers, because there are quite a few different little Phillips screws, some of them tiny and tight, that you need to remove, along with gently rocking the lamp's electrical leads out, in order to finally get the lamp itself out of the housing. As with any disassembling operation, take careful note of how everything is put together before you take it apart, so you can reassemble it correctly and completely later. One thing I wasn't sure about when putting the replacement lamp into the housing was which orientation the connecting leads should go, so I kept rotating the lamp clockwise and counterclockwise to make it connect back to the two wires positioned with what I tried to determine were their original bends and kinks. However, a saving grace was that there is actually a little notch in the lamp that sort of clicks into place into the thin aluminum frame (bottom left in the picture) holding the lamp inside the housing when it's positioned to put its four tiny screws back in.
- When I first put it all back together, put it back up, plugged everything back in and fired it up, it started to light up slightly, but I couldn't hear any fans spinning, and within 30 seconds the projector shut down and wouldn't power up anymore. I tried unplugging the power cord, plugging it back in and starting the projector up again three or four times, but it did the same thing. Great, I thought, either I got a dud or defective knockoff lamp, or I've killed my Pro8200 with my homespun maintenance. Then, I kind of jostled the projector and it finally started firing up properly. Whew!
- And now -- drum roll -- the results:
Although I very much appreciate that the original lamp went for about 6,500 hours, this replacement lamp change is TOTALLY worth it. Even with ECO mode now back on, which it hadn't been for the past couple thousand hours, the original brightness and pop are absolutely back.
Pop, pop, pop!
Hop on pop!