i will share one good thinks every body listen carefully if you use 3d silver screen projector screen the quality is going to be excellent and so sharp like 3d
it doesnt mutter u use cre x1000 or cre x2000vx during day and night you can see excellent picture
A time ago I get CRE x2000 PX and want to share some pictures. Later this or maybe next week I'll try to make a detailed review on it.
Screen: Digis Optimal-C 180x180 MW / DSOC-1102
Camera: Canon PowerShot A3000 IS / Automatic mode
Video (720p) shots: MPCHC => DXVA => Intel HD Video (Celeron 1037U) => HDMI (video mode: 1920x1080@50hz)
How did you replace the fuse on the CREX1000? I sent it back for repair, and when it returned after a full test and pass, would not work at all. They said try replacing the fuse. However I am having difficulty in taking the top panel off. Is there a method or process that I can follow?
Any hints welcomed.
The screws are at the bottom of the proj. The fuse is on the power board. But, if it berns out, it means, that power modul has a mulfunction. In moste cases main switching transistor is broken.
Yurik, as I can see, the same stupid linear regulator in power module, as in X1000, and a piece of **** instead of the lens. But white is much better. And I guess low light output, some about 300 ANSI lumens, real, not china.
Ledmaster, since I'm not an expert in digital projector at all, I can't argue with that. The only thing I may say, that the projector satisfies my simple needs for now. Maybe it would be enough to have HD (1280x720) projector, but there seems to be no any cheap model at market with lens shift.
About lumens, we have to turn on a dim light (~20W) while watching at the evening - it is too bright for me and my wife when twilight. We'll see how it goes when white nights comes to St. Petersburg =)
@ledmaster do you think it's easy/medium/hard to open up the projector and align the lcd panels of the CRE X1000, the one I has has like 2-3 pixel alignment issues betwen colors but mostly at the edges, so makes me wonder if it's not possible to fix.
Yes, my friend. I need to agree, that lens shift in both planes is a great oppotunity. And 300-400 lm real ANSI lumens is well enough light output for home utilization. May be a bit low only for 3D application. But your pixel photo shows huge chromatic abberation (this is not matrix displacement)., and this is due to low qualy of the main lens, for a pity.
Troyworks, no chances to "correct" matrixes in homeplace, beware of stupid advices. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1307577/lightbox/post/22693100/id/105705
(see #39 page). One pixel is abot several microns, and you can not achieve such level of prcision. And this is not all. There is also angle precision requirement, and so on...
By the way, as I admtitted to Yuri Tichomirov, this effect is not a displace, but a chromatic abberation of cheap main lens. To avoid that you should spend not less then a couple of thousends bucks on it.
You guys still speaking about this projector! btw i got too lazy and got other projects so i didn't do EDID flash, even tho i think some problems could be solved doing that. I've used this projector as a tv and used it to watch movies from computer, what i've noticed that the picture quality is worse if i've not done my custom resolution thing (to get rid of that overscan).
Yes picture quality can be slighly better if using the tricks i posted couple posts ago, (tho im not sure if u need to make custom driver too, im using my custom driver with the nvidia custom settings shown before to eliminate overscan and /magically/ improving picture quality).
Would i buy this projector again if i knew what i now know? Propably not there are couple reasons, it is an unfinished projector it could be average projector if the biggest problems would have been fixed.
Next thing wagon i think im gonna hop in is the Ultra-D Glasses Free Television, too bad that the projector industry is still not developing as fast as it could!
EDIT EDIT: I uploaded a EDID OVERRIDE .INF (for x1000NXL not sure if works with other versions) so you guys who are still using this **** can get the 1x1 pixelmappin, as i said year ago it is not a perfect. With pc you still get pretty nice picture on fullHD resolution. You need to disable Digital Signel Checking in your windows to be able to install this, this was mostly done checking phoenix EDID code and compiled afterwards.
@LEdmaster did your experiment with other lens help any? I'm wondering how much the aberration is the main lens as much as the prismatic combiner, as it's worse on one side than the other.
Also after a year of using it, last couple month several hours a day, and a recent visit to the consumer electronics store (best buy) where there is a significant shift to 4K displays, as a whole it's still been a good purchase, the colors suck but the overall is much more film like with less pixelation than any of the lcd.plasma screens I've seen today, and suitable if your using web delivered content (netflix, popcorntime, youtube).
To TroyWorks. Sorry for delay.
I tried to solve this problem on installation more than a year ago, and don't remember the details. The main thing was to change projection distance. Chromatic aberration on the pixels was less noticeable, than with the standard lens. However, because of the differing sizes of the LCD matrixes with the size, recommended for this lens, a bluish offset at the left side of the screen and rose at the right has become more noticeable. I believe this is due to the imperfection of prismatic combiner..
Found a trick on this projector for better white/black balance, wanted to share...though I'm not sure how many care at this point.
I added a circular polarizer from a camera, to the front which if dialed one way adds magenta, the other green. As the 'black' tends to be on the greenish side, adding magenta helps dial it in a way not possible through the onscreen controls as far as I can tell, to get the color balance
I added it to reduce brightness at night (as I'm light sensitive in evenings), which it does do, but not to the point of removing too much brightness.
I have the Cre X1000NX 3000 lumens 100K contrast ratio and had it for about 2 ½ years. I had not used it for about 2 months and I wanted to use it and turned it on and now I have what looks like a test pattern across the top and bottom over the picture. I was wondering if any of you had this problem and how to fix it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I have had mine just over 2 years and on turning it on, had a new issue with the blue channel streaking, which I suspect is hardware chip issues.
what's odd is it doesn't show up in the static when no signal is present or the opening screen so suspect that it's the HDMI input that got damaged...conveniently right after the 2 year warranty date >
anyway I'm trying to contract CRE about a repair, still wading through email correspondance with them.
If there was no any voltage stress, the most often cause of malfunction is dry soldering point or microcrack in soldering. I advise you to check main board thoroughly with microscope and solde all suspicious contacts.
Are people still talking about this model?
And why so many issues?
Why are there no professional reviews yet?
Why aren't people hearing back on warranty or service issues?
This model is one of the few that seems to use decent LCD panels in the design, but it can't get away from their false brightness advertising, and it seems like people are finding out first hand just how poorly built these models are for long term use. I've certainly seen any number of LCD projectors fail over the years, but that's a tiny percentage after years of use... Nothing like this.
I certainly wouldn't spend hours of my time trying to figure out what electronics are bad in something I owned.