Mitsubishi HC1500 Color Wheel Issue - My Options? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 01-21-2011, 01:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Unfortunately, after approx. 2500 hours, my HC1500 has developed the color wheel whine. So I'm trying to weigh my options.

Does anyone have an accurate cost of what Mitsubishi charges to replace the part?

I would put the money toward a new projector but I JUST bought a new bulb for the HC1500.

Is there a 1080p projector that this bulb works in?
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post #2 of 26 Old 01-21-2011, 05:20 AM
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Where did you buy the lamp and what did you pay? That lamp fit several Mitsubishi projectors of that vintage but do not remember if any are 1080p.
It will fit my HC3000 which is 720. BTW the HC3000 must have a different color wheel than the 1500. My unit has over (jix shields up!) 5500 hours on it and quiet as a mouse. If you have no real need to upgrade, a used hc3000 would be a direct replacement for the 1500 and run about $150-$200.. if you can find one.
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post #3 of 26 Old 01-21-2011, 05:58 AM
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Mine started the whine at 1300hrs . I built a hush box for it that includes ventilation tubes with fans. It cut down the whine significantly and I've had that setup for 2 years. The whine still annoys me but at least the setup is usable.

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post #4 of 26 Old 01-21-2011, 11:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I got the replacement lamp off of Ebay for $150. I suppose I could resell it with only 5 hours and recoup most of that but my other problem is my setup.

I'm running a 135" screen with the projector at 19'7" throw. I can't move the placement of the projector and I've not found many projectors that will project a 135" image at 19'7" and be bright enough at that distance. The HC1500 does it well.

So I guess my options are:

1. Have Mitsubishi fix my color wheel
2. Find a different Mitsubishi projector that this bulb will work in
3. Find a different projector and sell the bulb towards the cost of it.

I really don't want to drop $1k on a new projector, though.
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post #5 of 26 Old 01-22-2011, 07:06 AM
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Mitsubishi is one of the more expensive projectors out there for parts replacement costs. My supplier lists the color wheel at about $400. No idea what Mitsubishi would charge you for the repair but it won't be cheap.
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post #6 of 26 Old 01-22-2011, 11:29 AM
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I have had the color wheel whine develop on my Hc3000 3 times.. Twice under the 2 year warranty, so it was fixed both times for free. It started whining again last week. I called mitsubishi tech support and told them that they have replaced it twice before and could they give me any deal as it started whining again 6 months after their last fix, even though it is now out of warranty. So far, they have agreed to assume the cost of the part, which they said was about $220 and I am liable for the labor, which might run 100 bucks or so.
You might try giving them a call and ask them to fix it, just to see what happens.
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post #7 of 26 Old 01-22-2011, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shivaji View Post

I have had the color wheel whine develop on my Hc3000 3 times.. Twice under the 2 year warranty, so it was fixed both times for free. It started whining again last week. I called mitsubishi tech support and told them that they have replaced it twice before and could they give me any deal as it started whining again 6 months after their last fix, even though it is now out of warranty. So far, they have agreed to assume the cost of the part, which they said was about $220 and I am liable for the labor, which might run 100 bucks or so.
You might try giving them a call and ask them to fix it, just to see what happens.

How many total hours on your unit? Mine as about 5500 and no wine.. it was used so maybe the HT store had it repaired but the guy didn't say so.. it was a demo from a store that went belly up and was run 14 hours a day..
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post #8 of 26 Old 01-24-2011, 07:03 AM
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My Hc3000 now has bout 3300 hours on the bulb. Besides the whine issue, it has been a great projector.
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post #9 of 26 Old 03-04-2011, 06:54 PM
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Mine is also making noise, my bulb has about 2100 hrs and I really don't have any other reason to spend $1200 on a new projector (Epson Home Cinema 8350 if I were to replace mine) so I'm thinking about replacing the color wheel. There is a place advertising on eBay that they can do it for $205. Ebay Color Wheel Replacement Or for a cost of $172 if you want to pull the color wheel out and send it to them.
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post #10 of 26 Old 03-04-2011, 07:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTPC_Dude View Post

Mine is also making noise, my bulb has about 2100 hrs and I really don't have any other reason to spend $1100 on a new projector (Epson Home Cinema 8350 if I were to replace mine) so I'm thinking about replacing the color wheel. There is a place advertising on eBay that they can do it for $205. Ebay Color Wheel Replacement

That's interesting. I hadn't seen that. For $205 that isn't too terrible.

I was able to find a used HC1500 on Ebay with 289 hours with a buy it now of $239.50 so I went ahead and bought it. Hoping it doesn't have the color wheel issue.

I'll have to decide what I'm going to do with my other HC1500. Either sell it as is with the new lamp or send it in and get it fixed.

Thanks for the post HTPC_Dude
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post #11 of 26 Old 02-13-2012, 05:38 PM
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If you are going to go to the trouble of diving into the colour wheel to replace it, why not just go the extra step and replace the bearings? For the HC1500 they are 2x5x2.5 and 4x8x3 for the small and large bearings, though from experience the larger of the two is usually the problem. I have found for each prices from $5 to $30. Honestly I've had problems with the ceramic bearing (more expensive too) and about to trial the stainless steel version, but it is definitely cheaper than a new colour wheel.

To add to these instructions http:// www avsforum com / avs-vb / showthread.php?p=19541817#post19541817 (sorry, can't make links yet), once the colour wheel is out, all that is required is to remove the protector plate (three screws) and dislodge the snap ring on the shaft by the small bearing. This end also has a small spring inside that loads the bearings axially. Gently pull the wheel over the magnets where hopefully the large bearing comes out on the brass shaft. (If not, reassemble and use the brass end to help dislodge the large bearing from the wheel housing.

Hope that helps.
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post #12 of 26 Old 02-14-2012, 02:28 AM
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I've got a Mitsubishi HC1500, too. It's got a bit under 2,000 hours on it, and the color wheel problem started about a month ago -- it's really noisy. It quiets down a little after a few minutes, but it's still very audible, and not just during quiet scenes.

For what it's worth, the color wheel problem seems to have started after not using the projector for a week or two.

The first bulb also went dead after less than 1,000 hours, and I'm on my second bulb now.

If I'd heard about the bearing replacement possibility, I might have given it a shot, but I've already got an HC4000 on order to replace the HC1500. I hope I have better luck with the HC4000!

Other than the bulb and color wheel problems, I've been satisfied with the HC1500. I was really hoping it would last a long time, especially since the replacement bulbs have gotten to be pretty inexpensive now. Oh well.
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post #13 of 26 Old 02-14-2012, 11:55 AM
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Just a heads up, I may be selling my Mits HC1500 ( a recent refurb, less than 2000 hrs) soon with a brand new (made in Japan) replacement lamp.
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post #14 of 26 Old 05-27-2012, 02:21 AM
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Just adding to an old thread, but the info is relevant. I have a HC3100 projector which has been good to me for some 6 years. I'm on my 5th globe now. As mentioned above the color wheel dilema arose a while back in my projector. I asked Mitsubishi the cost of a replacement - $450 + shipping. A little scary so I bought an OEM part from Ebay for $100. Decided to strip down the projector on the weekend to fit the new wheel. Bit of a task - took around 2 hours. What I found was most interesting. The noise that the wheel is producing is actually a mechanical sound. The wheel was actially hitting the wheel housing. Looks like over time, the wheel has built up enough heat to start skimming the housing, this has led to massive heating and has warped the magnesium housing and severley cracked the housing - all over. So looks as though it's not just the wheel causing the problem. I believe most of the spinning wheel failures mentioned will also require the housing to be replaced as well. I spent the time to modify my housing and then fit the new wheel. System now works like new again. I would expect that if I sent the projector to Mitsub for repair this would have cost in the region of $900 to repair - wheel , housing and labour. Just for interest the old wheel was still working perfectly, just had terrible scratches - which rendered it unuseable.
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post #15 of 26 Old 05-27-2012, 07:37 AM
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If the color wheel caused other damage inside your projector then I would think that is a poor design from Mitsubishi.
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post #16 of 26 Old 05-27-2012, 09:41 PM
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Possibly - but I reckon the color wheel had clocked up some 12,000 hours. I'll try and upload some pics tonight of the wheel housing showing damage and scratched wheel.
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post #17 of 26 Old 05-28-2012, 01:52 AM
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Pictures as promised. One of the housing, still with colour wheel inside. You can see the cracking. But what you can't see is that the whole housing is warped due to the heat. Also all the screwss were welded in due to the heat. The other pic is the HC3100 color wheel showing the scratches.





I'd say a knowledgable electronics shop would take 45 mins to an hour to change out the wheel and housing. If I had to do it again I'd say 60 - 90 mins required.
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post #18 of 26 Old 06-17-2012, 12:53 PM
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Looks as though my Hc3000U is having the same problem. I have a new color wheel on the way. If it is the housing. Is there anything special you did to fix it?
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post #19 of 26 Old 07-18-2012, 01:46 AM
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Sorry for the delay. Hopefully you've installed with no problems. My old colour wheel had probably done some 15000 hours of spinning prior to the overheating issue. When I removed the wheel the bearings were as good as new, so really the color wheel itself is well manufactured and designed to last a very, very long time. The aluminium chassis was badly warped and couldn't be bent back into its original shape. I had to file away some of the deformations so that the new color wheel did not make contact with the chassis. The projectors been operating fine since replacement, so my minor mods must have worked.
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post #20 of 26 Old 08-18-2013, 01:26 PM
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I was about to buy some ceramic bearings, but wanted to see if anyone had any luck with them. I was looking at an ABEC-7 ceramic hybrid bearing hoping to get more than 2-3 K hours out of the color wheel before the whining returns. Has anyone had any success just replacing the bearings?
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post #21 of 26 Old 05-08-2014, 10:57 AM
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Update: I replaced the bearings with the ceramic bearings mentioned above. They may be more durable and heat resistant, but they are not quieter. I found the same amount of noise from them as the old bearings. If you attempt this repair yourself you may want to buy a replacement clip that holds the assembly together. It snapped in half as i was trying to remove it. Fortunately i had a small E-Clip on hand that fit perfectly. I will experiment with different bearings and update the group with what i find to work the best.
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post #22 of 26 Old 05-20-2014, 03:06 PM
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Final Update:
I bought the following bearings from Grainger and after install my projector is now quiet again. The parts were only 40$ compared to 250$ for the new color wheel assembly:

1zfn3 - 4x8x3mm
1zf09 - 2x5x2.5mm
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post #23 of 26 Old 06-02-2014, 05:43 AM
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Thank you so much beenlong for following up with your update on the bearings. I am currently dealing with the same issue.

 

I tried to replace the 4x8x3 bearing with a hobby bearing from Conrad.de, and the noise was ten times more the current bearing.

When I compared how loose/wobbly the new bearing is by inserting it on a rod (wooden pencil) and feeling it with my hand, it was no wonder it was louder. It felt very loose.

I also ordered ABEC 3 bearings from Aliexpress, but I don't know if I should bother mounting it into the color wheel because they feel even "wobblier".

 

I guess the original bearings are some super high precision and can't be just replaced with any bearings. Although looking at the bearing you suggested at Grinder, it is "only" ABEC 5 class.

 

Did you do any test how your new bearings compare to the original ones as far a loosenes/tolerances go? Do you think it is necessary to replace also the 2x5x2.5 bearing? What class were the bearings that didn't work out for you?

 

Thanks.

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post #24 of 26 Old 06-02-2014, 05:57 AM
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-- duplicate post -- Deleted.

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post #25 of 26 Old 06-04-2014, 12:16 PM
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I have the two stainless ball bearings from VXB.com ready to install. kit9395 = smr84zz 4x8x3 kit7622=smr52zz 2x5 x2.5 These are both ABEC 1, The ones you listed from Grainger are both the ABEC 5 versions of the same AST bearings...a bit more money. I'm hoping for good results with the ones I have, but if not I'll get the Grainger ones, thanks for the info! (I found the Grainger smr52zz A5 shows up as 1ZFK9)
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post #26 of 26 Old 06-04-2014, 06:10 PM
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Please keep us posted how it went.

Btw. the same ABEC 5 bearings can be bought at zoro.com for much less then at Grainger (under $20 for both. Plus they have free shipping for order over $25).

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