Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 18 - AVS Forum
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post #511 of 2860 Old 06-18-2011, 03:17 PM - Thread Starter
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I can see how a perfectly converged RS40 might be nearly as sharp as the Mits hc4000, but to test sharpness you really need to use a test pattern or HTPC text or something.
The RS40 is one of the sharper LCOS projectors out there for sure, but some people don't get them quite perfectly converged.

What about bright scene POP or Sports, did the Mits still beat the RS40?


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post #512 of 2860 Old 06-18-2011, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I can see how a perfectly converged RS40 might be nearly as sharp as the Mits hc4000, but to test sharpness you really need to use a test pattern or HTPC text or something.
The RS40 is one of the sharper LCOS projectors out there for sure, but some people don't get them quite perfectly converged.

What about bright scene POP or Sports, did the Mits still beat the RS40?

The ansi contrast of HC4000 for watching sports was better than the RS40 but it wasn't a huge difference. I think the high power screen helped the RS40 in this regard as well. I now know that any projector I get in the future(for my mounting situation) will have to be table mounted so I can get that full gain of the high power screen. At first I was thinking it was brightness I was after and my screen is only 92" but in the end I think it was just me getting that full gain from the screen for its added sharpness and pop that I was missing and not necessarily added brightness as that was just added benefit. I know some people when I first posted I needed more brightness thought I was insane.....I might agree with them now...lol

Mike

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post #513 of 2860 Old 06-18-2011, 03:37 PM
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I have a question. I've been without a projector for about 1 yr and miss it. My last one was an Optoma HD70.


I've got a new house and I'm using the only thing I have left from the previous theatre, PB13+. Can I get 106" screen based on any of these numbers? It's going to be ceiling mounted.


Config #1

Depth 14'2
Ceiling Height 7'9

Config #2

Depth 11'6
Ceiling Height 8'11


Seating distance for both ones is 12' from head to screen

Total width of wall the screen is going on is 10'7 wide and 8'11 tall. Room is a bit over 1300cuft, small but the sub will rock the room. All components are going into adjacent closet. Room is going to be 100% light controlled, painted dark and used at night. There's a sponsor that has a packaged deal for this, screen and a few other things for a good price. Making sure it will work for me before throwing the money down for it.

Thanks.

D.I.N.K

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post #514 of 2860 Old 06-18-2011, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbw23air View Post

The ansi contrast of HC4000 for watching sports was better than the RS40 but it wasn't a huge difference.

I haven't seen an RS40 next to a DLP before, but the main difference I noticed with DLP vs. LCOS or LCD was that DLP produces more of a CUT out like almost 3D-effect, sort of like pop-up characters in a children's book for DLP, whereas an LCOS always looked too flat to me in bright scenes more like a painting, or lacking depth. Some of it was probably sharpness and some of it probably ANSI contrast, but a perfectly converged Rs40 should at least cut half that advantage, so maybe not as noticeable.

Let me ask in another way, do you see more POP on the DLP in closeups of faces, or did the RS40 ever dissapoint and look kind of too flat suddenly like a painting would look?
Is there any unexplainable magic you see on the DLP POP that isn't there with the RS40, other than just a small difference in contrast in bright scenes?


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post #515 of 2860 Old 06-18-2011, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I haven't seen an RS40 next to a DLP before, but the main difference I noticed with DLP vs. LCOS or LCD was that DLP produces more of a CUT out like almost 3D-effect, sort of like pop-up characters in a children's book for DLP, whereas an LCOS always looked too flat to me in bright scenes more like a painting, or lacking depth. Some of it was probably sharpness and some of it probably ANSI contrast, but a perfectly converged Rs40 should at least cut half that advantage, so maybe not as noticeable.

Let me ask in another way, do you see more POP on the DLP in closeups of faces, or did the RS40 ever dissapoint and look kind of too flat suddenly like a painting would look?
Is there any unexplainable magic you see on the DLP POP that isn't there with the RS40, other than just a small difference in contrast in bright scenes?

No, the RS40 has pop and I wouldn't rate the HC4000 as being alot better for pop in closups of faces, if the DLP was any better in this regard it was only say 10-20% at the most. Just a very small difference in contrast in bright scenes would I say is there with the HC4000 vs. the RS40. When I first got the RS40 there was a bigger gap between ansi contrast of the RS40 vs. a DLP like the HC4000 but once I got grayscale calibrated and the gamma fell in line the bright scenes had more pop to them on the RS40. Not quite as much as DLP bright scenes do but closer than you would think. That is one thing about the RS40 that has surprised me is how good bright scenes look. Sure dark scenes look fantastic but bright scenes look great as well. Now this is just in movies. For HD sports I don't like watching them on the RS40, it seems like thats where the DLP sharpness and ANSI contrast really matter but on movies(and I have watched tons of blurays and DVDs on the RS40) there is not a big difference for those bright scenes that pop....they pop on the RS40. I have a friend who has a RS1 and while his dark scenes look very good it is the bright scenes that seem kinda flat like you mention. His RS1 is about 1/4 - 1/2 pixel off in alignment as well.

Mike

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post #516 of 2860 Old 06-18-2011, 09:53 PM - Thread Starter
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That is very good and precise info, I think that is the info some of us were looking for (well at least one of us). Seems like JVC improved the issue with bright scenes quite a bit, but still a step behind DLP on some bright scenes like Sports.

Seems like a manufacturer mise well just build a dual technology projector where the LCOS side kicks in for dark scenes, and the DLP side for bright scenes
I'd like to see how that works, might look funny.


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post #517 of 2860 Old 06-19-2011, 08:48 AM
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Hey all woke up to a nice fathers day surprise, wife ordered the HC4000 for me! It was a bundled deal including 92'' electric screen, Denon HTIB & mount! Sweet....Just one newbie question so far, We will not have any furniture where this system will be installed (for now), will sitting/lying down make a big difference on the display versus sitting on a sofa? If it does i can always move an extra (heavy) sofa down 2 flights of stairs. HC4000 will be ceiling mounted.

Thanks again for all the valuable resources from this forum! I was really set on getting a 82'' RPTV, but after reading the reviews of the HC4000 and a deal too good to pass up, game set & match. At least it a Mits. Many more questions too come.

Thanks again & Happy Fathers day to all you bad boys of the projector world!
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post #518 of 2860 Old 06-19-2011, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one4g View Post

Hey all woke up to a nice fathers day surprise, wife ordered the HC4000 for me! It was a bundled deal including 92'' electric screen, Denon HTIB & mount! Sweet....Just one newbie question so far, We will not have any furniture where this system will be installed (for now), will sitting/lying down make a big difference on the display versus sitting on a sofa? If it does i can always move an extra (heavy) sofa down 2 flights of stairs. HC4000 will be ceiling mounted.

Thanks again for all the valuable resources from this forum! I was really set on getting a 82'' RPTV, but after reading the reviews of the HC4000 and a deal too good to pass up, game set & match. At least it a Mits. Many more questions too come.

Thanks again & Happy Fathers day to all you bad boys of the projector world!

I think you will be fine, as long as the screen is not a HP (high power) screen which I really doubt, you should be just fine...unlike us old folks, if I had to sit on the basement floor for anytime, i'd be hurting...


oh and btw I think your wife made a great purchase..lol

Congrats and welcome to the thread, let us know what you think when you get it going..

War Eagle!!!
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post #519 of 2860 Old 06-19-2011, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one4g View Post

Hey all woke up to a nice fathers day surprise, wife ordered the HC4000 for me! It was a bundled deal including 92'' electric screen, Denon HTIB & mount! Sweet....Just one newbie question so far, We will not have any furniture where this system will be installed (for now), will sitting/lying down make a big difference on the display versus sitting on a sofa? If it does i can always move an extra (heavy) sofa down 2 flights of stairs. HC4000 will be ceiling mounted.

Thanks again for all the valuable resources from this forum! I was really set on getting a 82'' RPTV, but after reading the reviews of the HC4000 and a deal too good to pass up, game set & match. At least it a Mits. Many more questions too come.

Thanks again & Happy Fathers day to all you bad boys of the projector world!


Wow - she's a keeper
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post #520 of 2860 Old 06-20-2011, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

I think you will be fine, as long as the screen is not a HP (high power) screen which I really doubt, you should be just fine...unlike us old folks, if I had to sit on the basement floor for anytime, i'd be hurting...


oh and btw I think your wife made a great purchase..lol

Congrats and welcome to the thread, let us know what you think when you get it going..

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjolson View Post

Wow - she's a keeper

Thanks guys! Yes she is a keeper!
Doing more homework on where to place the HC4000 and it will be ceiling mounted. I ran the projector set up that coderguy supplied and this is what i got
Man Cave 24'X14'
-screen 92" 16:9 84" x 57" physical dimensions (I can't go any bigger due to screen will be mounted on a recessed wall)
-ceiling 106"
-6" mount
Projection distance
-Longest 165.5
-Shortest 110.6
So does this mean I get to pick between these distances where to mount the projector (finding the closet joist)? What will be the ideal distance since I can't go any bigger on my screen size.


I tried to 'print screen' the calculator but was a no go.
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post #521 of 2860 Old 06-20-2011, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one4g View Post

Thanks guys! Yes she is a keeper!
Doing more homework on where to place the HC4000 and it will be ceiling mounted. I ran the projector set up that coderguy supplied and this is what i got
Man Cave 24'X14'
-screen 92" 16:9 84" x 57" physical dimensions (I can't go any bigger due to screen will be mounted on a recessed wall)
-ceiling 106"
-6" mount
Projection distance
-Longest 165.5
-Shortest 110.6
So does this mean I get to pick between these distances where to mount the projector (finding the closet joist)? What will be the ideal distance since I can't go any bigger on my screen size.


I tried to 'print screen' the calculator but was a no go.

I'll crank in the details this evening and post back...no worries

War Eagle!!!
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post #522 of 2860 Old 06-20-2011, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one4g View Post

So does this mean I get to pick between these distances where to mount the projector (finding the closet joist)? What will be the ideal distance since I can't go any bigger on my screen size.
.

Generally>
> closer PJ is to screen, you'll get a little more lumens (worse blacks)
> further PJ is from screen, little less lumens, but better blacks
> middle range (so middle of the zoom), best part of the lens, so potentually better focus uniformity, less chromatic aberration.
> then there are the aesthetic reasons. Furthest mounting puts the PJ more out of the visual and audible range.

Ultimately most would not notice the difference in the image no matter how close or far you mount it, so I wouldn't fret over this too much
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post #523 of 2860 Old 06-20-2011, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danieloneil01 View Post
I have a question. I've been without a projector for about 1 yr and miss it. My last one was an Optoma HD70.


I've got a new house and I'm using the only thing I have left from the previous theatre, PB13+. Can I get 106" screen based on any of these numbers? It's going to be ceiling mounted.


Config #1

Depth 14'2
Ceiling Height 7'9

Config #2

Depth 11'6
Ceiling Height 8'11


Seating distance for both ones is 12' from head to screen

Total width of wall the screen is going on is 10'7 wide and 8'11 tall. Room is a bit over 1300cuft, small but the sub will rock the room. All components are going into adjacent closet. Room is going to be 100% light controlled, painted dark and used at night. There's a sponsor that has a packaged deal for this, screen and a few other things for a good price. Making sure it will work for me before throwing the money down for it.

Thanks.
A 106" screen will work very well for your room. I'm not sure what you mean by "Depth" in your configurations. If the "Depth" you refer to should be called the "throw distance", then either configuration would work.

The throw distance (= front of PJ lens to screen) for the HC4000 is 10' 8" to 15' 11" for a 106" screen. However, "Config #2" would be better, for a ceiling mount, because you have to allow for the 17.5" offset of the center of the lens to the top of the screen. With a ceiling mount (assumed from your descri(for a 106" screen) from lens center to the top of screen.

You can get all of this information from Projector Central: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mits...ulator-pro.htm.

I have a 13' wide room, with about 2' taken up by an equipment cabinet on one side and 1' for bookshelves on the other side (leaving about 10' of room for the screen width). We sit 11' 6" from our screen and that is perfect for a 1080p PJ. Our PJ (not a HC4000) is mounted 12' 5" from the screen.

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post #524 of 2860 Old 06-20-2011, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one4g View Post

Thanks guys! Yes she is a keeper!
Doing more homework on where to place the HC4000 and it will be ceiling mounted. I ran the projector set up that coderguy supplied and this is what i got
Man Cave 24'X14'
-screen 92" 16:9 84" x 57" physical dimensions (I can't go any bigger due to screen will be mounted on a recessed wall)
-ceiling 106"
-6" mount
Projection distance
-Longest 165.5
-Shortest 110.6
So does this mean I get to pick between these distances where to mount the projector (finding the closet joist)? What will be the ideal distance since I can't go any bigger on my screen size.


I tried to 'print screen' the calculator but was a no go.


So here is the mits calculator, looks like you got it right..



So the shortest distance for a 92" screen is 110 and the max is 165..fleaman gave you all the details about position, I think mid zoom is usually the best compromise but you will be happy either way, keep in mind the calc also tells you how high your screen will be positioned for a 6" drop...bottom of screen will be about 36"...might be a little high, so you may want to extend the drop tube....you'll have to play around with that to see what you prefer...if you have any more questions let us know

War Eagle!!!
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post #525 of 2860 Old 06-20-2011, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooney View Post

OK....trying to use the calculator to replace my hc3000 with a hc4000. I can't get it to work after MANY tries...so can someone do the calculations for me ?

106" 16x9 screen, 8' 8" ceiling, front row about 13 ft, screen is 26 1/2" down from ceiling and 30 1/4" above floor, Chief universal mount, bottom of projector 7 1/2" down, center of lens 6 1/2" down from ceiling.

Help will enable me to buy my new projector.

Here ya go...



If you have any more questions let us know...

War Eagle!!!
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post #526 of 2860 Old 06-20-2011, 10:59 PM
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guys,

Just pulled the trigger on the HC4000 with an Elite VMAX 120inch motorised projector.
Could someone send or post some simple picture settings to set the projector up i have read that the RED OTB needs to be scaled back a tiny bit.
Or using Art's (from projector review) calibarations is a good starting point.
Any settings will be good settings for me to use as i rteally have no idea what i will be doing - unless someone like "coderguy" has time and some easy picture settings to post here or even at the front page as a starting point for use newbies.

koaz from australia.
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post #527 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 06:33 AM
 
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Just did some testing with this unit and wow am really impressed.
Totally under estimated this unit.
Has a lot of bang for the buck.

I look forward to doing more testing on my Black diamond screen with this baby.....

Also heard there is a 50$ Rebate going on til end july.....
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post #528 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 06:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KOAZ View Post
guys,

Just pulled the trigger on the HC4000 with an Elite VMAX 120inch motorised projector.
Could someone send or post some simple picture settings to set the projector up i have read that the RED OTB needs to be scaled back a tiny bit.
Or using Art's (from projector review) calibarations is a good starting point.
Any settings will be good settings for me to use as i rteally have no idea what i will be doing - unless someone like "coderguy" has time and some easy picture settings to post here or even at the front page as a starting point for use newbies.

koaz from australia.
We always recommend buying an eye-one for $150 and calibrating that way with the free HCFR software download.
However,Bishop posted his settings on Page 3, generally change the projector to Cinema mode and get the Contrast/Brightness set correctly. If you don't have any test patterns, just do the best you can, but we would recommend you get some.

You can get a free test disk file with some patterns from here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

Or DVD format if you prefer:
http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre/index_en.php

You can compare to an LCD monitor if you have a good LCD that has an OTB close to D65. I've calibrated by eye before just to see how accurate I could get it, the only real way to calibrate by eye for COLOR without a meter is to take the average across many scenes when comparing to an already calibrated device, like comparing 50+ skin tones between the two devices and each time adjusting to the one that looks the best. You won't get it perfect, but it can look better, however forget doing the GAMMA by eye, it's impossible for the most part. That said, this is a sloppy and non-recommended method of adjusting color, but you can use this until you get a meter.

You can also BUY the HD-DVE basics Bluray, as well as a Spears & Munsil disk. Both of these will help. The HD-DVE is a little easier to use because it has a more thorough video tutorial with it. Buying both discs isn't a bad idea either.

Windows 7 also has built-in calibration wizard with patterns that will work for HTPC. The Windows 7 is the easiest way out of all of them but only applies during HTPC mode, it is the TRUE dummies way to do it, but the results are also NOT that great, but it is a fun tool just to play around with. There is some other software as well you can use.


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
- Quick Peak at the new upcoming calculator
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post #529 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
We always recommend buying an eye-one for $150 and calibrating that way with the free HCFR software download.
However,Bishop posted his settings on Page 3, generally change the projector to Cinema mode and get the Contrast/Brightness set correctly. If you don't have any test patterns, just do the best you can, but we would recommend you get some.

snip....
+1 what coder says, my only input would be that I like the HD DVE disks, I just wish they came with full saturation panels that would allow you to dial in your saturation levels better...anyone know of a good disk for that? Other than that coder is right on, the mits is really close otb compared to most projectors once you put it into cinema gamma and reduce the red push a few clicks, adjust the brightness and contrast for your screen and I think you will be very happy...let us know how it goes


oh and Congrats

War Eagle!!!
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post #530 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 07:35 AM
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Hey all,

Just bought 3 Hc4000's to run on a curved screen. 2 are conencted to my PC via HDMI to dvi (computer side) cables and one has a active dvi to mini display port. Now the image off the PJ with the mini display port is perfect yet the other two contain a lot of green lines going accross them and they flicker quite a bit. Anyone else experienced this?

ChEERS
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post #531 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 07:37 AM
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P.S. The menu's on all 3 are crystal clear
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post #532 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 08:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post
I just wish they came with full saturation panels that would allow you to dial in your saturation levels better...
Spears and Munsil, the AVS HD disk, HCFR self-generated test patterns if using an HTPC (some drawbacks with this), and the one provided by Tom Huffman all have some additional patterns.

Beyond the calibration for dummies guide, there are several posts by other experts such as Tom Huffman that go into much more detail on how to acheive a perfect calibration.

Saturation is a tricky thing because it has a relationship with Chroma which isn't "reversibly related or inverse", even if it can seem proportional to our eyes.
Chroma can in a sense make a color look SLIGHTLY more saturated to our eyes even when the saturation did NOT change just because the brightness/lightness of the color has changed, but overall the saturation of a color is independant from Chroma. Now let's say your gray scale was off as well as your saturation, and then you adjusted saturation of just RED, as the RED becomes less saturated any error in grayscale would start altering the color even more as the saturation of RED is reduced and the color is becoming closer to white (a color with all saturation turned off just becomes another b&w gray scale, so that is how gray scale affects saturation in a sense, but it gets complicated). That is why you do GRAY-SCALE first, and saturation and hue last. So this stuff gets kind of "heady" and is somewhat pushing the limitations of my current calibration knowledge (I'm still learning some things), as I did some odd experiments and got varying results that didn't always make sense between different CMS's on different projectors. There are a few things I am still trying to understand better.


I learned how to do it from this article:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=852536

Here is one snippet from one of Tom Huffman's threads which helps understand how to adjust things further:
---------------------------------------------------

Note: There is no industry-wide accepted terminology for gray scale controls. You may see RGB Contrast/Brightness, RGB Gain/Bias, RGB Gain/Offset, RGB Drives/Cuts. They all mean the same thing. Contrast, Gains, and Drives are for adjusting the bright end of the gray scale. Brightness, Biases, Offsets, and Cuts are for adjusting the dark end of the gray scale.

Adjusting Color using a Color Management System (CMS)
Point your colorimeter towards the screen and display a white test pattern, and then take a reading.
Display a red test pattern AT THE LEVEL OF STIMULUS AS THE WHITE TEST PATTERN, and then take another reading.
Repeat the previous step until you have measured all of the primary and secondary colors.
Use the software controls to plot the Lightness, Saturation, and Hue of all of the colors.
Adjust these values for each of the colors, one by one, using the CMS until Lightness, Saturation, and Hue line up as close as possible to the references for your target gamut (see those references above). It is helpful if the software has a continuous reading mode so your changes can be viewed in real time.
Note 1: You probably won't be able to get all colors lined up perfectly, but get them as close as you can.

Note 2: Some software only plots changes that are visible on the CIE chart. This allows you to get saturation and hue right, but it doesn't tell you how your changes affect the brightness of the colors. Unfortunately, some CMSs automatically change the brightness of a color as you adjust its saturation. This will give you a good looking CIE chart, but you could actually end up with LESS accurate color than when you began.

Note3: The human eye is not equally sensitive to all colors and all color differences. For example, it is more important to get red and green right than blue. It is also more important to get correct hues than correct saturation.

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END TOM HUFFMAN's POST
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I learned from Tom Huffman's posts throughout the forum. There are different ways of adjusting saturation on the Mits, depending on how far you want to go with it and if you are shooting for the less than 2% error that our eyes can then no longer see. You can start with using a white test pattern than going back to a Red test pattern.


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
- Quick Peak at the new upcoming calculator
**Current Projector Calculator** -- http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com

Coder's Top Projector Picks of 2012 --http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....

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post #533 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by julian bernard View Post
Hey all,

Just bought 3 Hc4000's to run on a curved screen. 2 are conencted to my PC via HDMI to dvi (computer side) cables and one has a active dvi to mini display port. Now the image off the PJ with the mini display port is perfect yet the other two contain a lot of green lines going accross them and they flicker quite a bit. Anyone else experienced this?

ChEERS
Well my first guess would be the cables...at least that is where I would start first....you can always move the mini display port to the other projectors and see if that clears things up on those and if it does then I would see about those cables and try something else....3 HC4000, sounds cool though...

War Eagle!!!
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post #534 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julian bernard
Hey all,

Just bought 3 Hc4000's to run on a curved screen. 2 are conencted to my PC via HDMI to dvi (computer side) cables and one has a active dvi to mini display port. Now the image off the PJ with the mini display port is perfect yet the other two contain a lot of green lines going accross them and they flicker quite a bit. Anyone else experienced this?

ChEERS
Why 3 ?
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post #535 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 10:27 AM
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I've just tried each cable one at a time on each projector with very strange results. So each test was performed with the HDMI port of the PJ used and connected to the active mini display port connected to the computer.

The first cable showed the green lines on all 3 projectors. The second cable showed the green lines on one projector with the other 2 perfect quality, and the third cable gave no signal to all three projectors!

Last test done (removing the mini display port)

In the same order, the first cable again shower green images on all projectors. the second one showed perfect images on all 3 (as opposed to 2 perfect 1 s and 1 green one as it was with the display port) and the last cable now displayed a signal, but the picture was mostly green.

Am i right to think that it sounds like a cable issue? Do you think the varying results is due to the different resistance each cable has?
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post #536 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 10:29 AM
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Btw 3 because i m running a curved 4m diameter screen
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post #537 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julian bernard View Post

I've just tried each cable one at a time on each projector with very strange results. So each test was performed with the HDMI port of the PJ used and connected to the active mini display port connected to the computer.

The first cable showed the green lines on all 3 projectors. The second cable showed the green lines on one projector with the other 2 perfect quality, and the third cable gave no signal to all three projectors!

Last test done (removing the mini display port)

In the same order, the first cable again shower green images on all projectors. the second one showed perfect images on all 3 (as opposed to 2 perfect 1 s and 1 green one as it was with the display port) and the last cable now displayed a signal, but the picture was mostly green.

Am i right to think that it sounds like a cable issue? Do you think the varying results is due to the different resistance each cable has?

I would be suspect of the cables....that would be my guess, we have seen cable issues before in the threads, not sure if we have had anyone have a bad hdmi port....could be a combination of the mini display port and the cable...

War Eagle!!!
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post #538 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 03:02 PM
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Also try adjusting the cable length setting in the menu (#2 post of this thread). You might be able to find a setting in each PJ to work with the cables you have.
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post #539 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 04:02 PM
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I just saw this PJ after checking out the 8350 and a 9500ub. I wish I had not seen the HC4000 because the other 2 looked great till I saw the mits. I brought the same 2 movies to all 3 places, How to Train Your Dragon and Barraka. The image was so sharp and colors just flew off the screen. I also noticed the convergence issue on the 9500 that I have read about, was not visible on the 8350.

The other thing I noticed is the motion lag on the Mits was non existent, and the other 2 it was there, not much but I still saw it. I always liked DLP RPTVs over the LCD ones, is the tech in a lot of ways the same with front projection?

I have 7'2" ceilings so I think with the no lens shift mounting this PJ is not going to work. I wanted at least a 100" screen. If this wont work for me what is the best alternative to the HC4000 and how much more money am I going to need to spend?

I am new to projectors and am trying to be sure I make the right decision before spending what to me is a ton of cash. My hope is that Mits maybe announces a successor to this projector with lens shift in the coming months. By October my basement should be finished and I will be ready to make a purchase.
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post #540 of 2860 Old 06-21-2011, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krbass View Post

I have 7'2" ceilings so I think with the no lens shift mounting this PJ is not going to work. I wanted at least a 100" screen. If this wont work for me what is the best alternative to the HC4000 and how much more money am I going to need to spend?

What kind of screen will you be using? If a fixed screen, you can do a little trick by angling the top of the screen out a little, while tilting the PJ up (to get the image higher), to avoid keystone and keep everything square.

Unfortunately there is no formula to calculate this (not a mathematician), just trial and error.

If a pull down/electric or painted on wall screen, your options are limited to using keystone.
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