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Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread

299K views 3K replies 274 participants last post by  kevin.veneman 
#1 ·
A brand new thread for discussing ONLY the Mits hc4000.
 
#502 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by curttard /forum/post/20559355


It's shocking to me that someone can say this projector on a 92" screen of 2.4 gain is not bright enough! Different strokes for sure.

lol...It's bright....but I am not getting the full benefits of the 2.4 gain screen since it is ceiling mounted. If it was hitting it dead on(table mounted) then yeah, it would be bright enough. I am probably only really getting a 1.2-1.5 gain at most from screen with it ceiling mounted. Also I don't plan on using projector to watch movies just HDTV/Sports/Video Games with maybe a little ambient light on in room thus my need for a little more brightness.


Mike
 
#503 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah /forum/post/20559368


It just shows one man's bright is an others dim.lol

It doesn't surprise me since he owned the HD80..a light cannon for sure.

The w6000 would have been a better choice.

The HD80 was brighter than the HC4000 and it was ceiling mounted on a 1.0 gain screen. That showed me how really bright the HD80 actually was. I should've waited for a refurb W6000 as the day after I ordered the HC4000 the refurb W6000 were back in stock.....story of my life...lol


Mike
 
#505 ·
Hey BishopT,


Not much... Same old stuff, pretty funny --- that Hifi guy still running around trying to discredit anyone that posts any opinion that is contrary to a professional review site.

I no longer fall for it, I just ignore him.

He has already discredited himself with his own RUDE behavior long before he discredited anyone else...
 
#507 ·
@mwb20

Ever get any comparisons up for the RS40 vs. the Mits yet?

Back to the Mits

Another reason for some of us always coming back to the Mits is the superb lamp life. The lumen loss really is slower than other projectors I've seen (unless I just got an abnormally "good" lamp).

Anyhow, Mits might be the first one to give an honest number on how long a lamp typically lasts, or at least they aren't stretching the truth as much!
 
#508 ·
Alright, I have mine installed and running - after wrestling with the lovely Monoprice mount I bought (live and learn). Initial impressions out of the box with no calibration - outstanding picture w/ Blue Ray content - Avatar, the Mummy, and Troy were all sampled. The Mummy had an excellent pic - very deep and filmlike. It is amazing how much detail and giant screen gives you.

Today we watched Return of the Jedi - DVD (SD). Still very good pic - again with the details on such a sharp, large screen, you pick up on many of the realism "flaws" with this movie as far as the aliens and costumes go IMO.

This PJ is very quiet - I am a audio nut of sorts and the hum of the fan doesn't even phase me. The remote and drop down menus are very easy to figure out; I think I only had to open the manual once thus far. At this point I cannot imagine that spending 2-3X's on a different PJ would really produce an image 2-3X's better than this one - given my 80" screen and room size.

One question - I just hooked up the Wii - any calibration settings you all would recommend for gaming. Although the kids would never notice, the pic needs some adjusting for sure...

Thank you guys for all the good info. leading to this purchase...
 
#509 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevhed /forum/post/20586288


Although the kids would never notice, the pic needs some adjusting for sure...

Thank you guys for all the good info. leading to this purchase...

There are some settings at the beginning of this thread, some on page 3 for starters. However, we'd all usually recommend you spend $150 for an eye-one meter and learn some basic calibration.

Most people can learn how to do a basic gray-scale calibration in just a single day of work by following the Calibration Guide for Dummies, and then downloading the FREE HCFR software to use for calibrations!

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

----Calibration Guide Above


At first with a new lamp you may find that others' settings work fairly ok (even then there are MFR variances though), but after your lamp gets more usage, they will eventually be way off, and you will need to re-calibrate anyhow.


Just my thoughts...
 
#510 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy /forum/post/20586238


@mwb20

Ever get any comparisons up for the RS40 vs. the Mits yet?

Back to the Mits

Another reason for some of us always coming back to the Mits is the superb lamp life. The lumen loss really is slower than other projectors I've seen (unless I just got an abnormally "good" lamp).

Anyhow, Mits might be the first one to give an honest number on how long a lamp typically lasts, or at least they aren't stretching the truth as much!

Well, I guess this was meant for me...lol


I sold the HC4000 the weekend I got it. I put 29 hours on it before the weekend was up and can just tell you my impressions vs. the RS40 I have from memory. We all know native contrast is going be won by the RS40. The RS40 looks incredible for its great black level and contrast. The HC4000 is no slouch though as the black level is certainly acceptable and was alot better than I expected and contrast while good cant compete with RS40 but at 3-4x the price that is expected. The brightness of both is real close but the RS40 had a little advantage since it is table mounted and was getting the full 2.4 gain of my high power screen. If the high power screen was taken out of the equation I would say the HC4000 was a little brighter. Colors were very good on both with me preferring the RS40. RS40 did have the grayscale calibrated but the HC4000 is very close out of the box but I bet if calibrated could be that much better. Here is something most of you might not agree on but the sharpness was very close. I might even give the edge to the RS40 while watching movies. Mine is very sharp and it has perfect convergence. The high power screen also helps the perceived sharpness as well as the brightness. After adjusting the HC4000(sharpness was too high out of box) it was sharp but it wasn't sharper than the RS40 while watching movies but watching HDTV sports I would give the HC4000 a slight edge. I have found that a higher contrast makes image appear sharper as well and that might be why I give the RS40 an edge in sharpness while watching movies. I should've realized before I ordered the HC4000 that I wouldn't get the full benefit of the high power screen since I had to ceiling mount it but I thought I would get enough of a gain. While it was bright I really think it is all factors involved that made me sell it, like when I would stand up and see a brighter image and it also was sharper and just looked better...sitting back down on couch the picture got duller from losing this gain. Until you have a high gain screen you really don't realize all the positives you get from it especially when projector and viewers are at the ideal location because besides just more brightness, it makes image appear sharper and gives image depth. I would easily recommend the HC4000 to anyone who wanted a 1080p DLP. To me it would be ideal if it could be mounted either floor mounted or if you had a way to ceiling mount but the seating area was raised so you could benefit more from a high power screen. I know this is starting to sound like a high power screen commercial but that screen is the best investment anyone could make for their projector and if you have a way to mount projector to take full advantage of a high power screen you should do it.


So, the HC4000 is fantastic for its price and you will have to spend around $1k or more to move up an incremental step in pq.


Mike
 
#511 ·
I can see how a perfectly converged RS40 might be nearly as sharp as the Mits hc4000, but to test sharpness you really need to use a test pattern or HTPC text or something.

The RS40 is one of the sharper LCOS projectors out there for sure, but some people don't get them quite perfectly converged.


What about bright scene POP or Sports, did the Mits still beat the RS40?
 
#512 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy /forum/post/20587052


I can see how a perfectly converged RS40 might be nearly as sharp as the Mits hc4000, but to test sharpness you really need to use a test pattern or HTPC text or something.

The RS40 is one of the sharper LCOS projectors out there for sure, but some people don't get them quite perfectly converged.


What about bright scene POP or Sports, did the Mits still beat the RS40?

The ansi contrast of HC4000 for watching sports was better than the RS40 but it wasn't a huge difference. I think the high power screen helped the RS40 in this regard as well. I now know that any projector I get in the future(for my mounting situation) will have to be table mounted so I can get that full gain of the high power screen. At first I was thinking it was brightness I was after and my screen is only 92" but in the end I think it was just me getting that full gain from the screen for its added sharpness and pop that I was missing and not necessarily added brightness as that was just added benefit. I know some people when I first posted I needed more brightness thought I was insane.....I might agree with them now...lol


Mike
 
#513 ·
I have a question. I've been without a projector for about 1 yr and miss it. My last one was an Optoma HD70.



I've got a new house and I'm using the only thing I have left from the previous theatre, PB13+. Can I get 106" screen based on any of these numbers? It's going to be ceiling mounted.



Config #1


Depth 14'2

Ceiling Height 7'9


Config #2


Depth 11'6

Ceiling Height 8'11



Seating distance for both ones is 12' from head to screen


Total width of wall the screen is going on is 10'7 wide and 8'11 tall. Room is a bit over 1300cuft, small but the sub will rock the room. All components are going into adjacent closet. Room is going to be 100% light controlled, painted dark and used at night. There's a sponsor that has a packaged deal for this, screen and a few other things for a good price. Making sure it will work for me before throwing the money down for it.


Thanks.
 
#514 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbw23air /forum/post/20587095


The ansi contrast of HC4000 for watching sports was better than the RS40 but it wasn't a huge difference.

I haven't seen an RS40 next to a DLP before, but the main difference I noticed with DLP vs. LCOS or LCD was that DLP produces more of a CUT out like almost 3D-effect, sort of like pop-up characters in a children's book for DLP, whereas an LCOS always looked too flat to me in bright scenes more like a painting, or lacking depth. Some of it was probably sharpness and some of it probably ANSI contrast, but a perfectly converged Rs40 should at least cut half that advantage, so maybe not as noticeable.


Let me ask in another way, do you see more POP on the DLP in closeups of faces, or did the RS40 ever dissapoint and look kind of too flat suddenly like a painting would look?

Is there any unexplainable magic you see on the DLP POP that isn't there with the RS40, other than just a small difference in contrast in bright scenes?
 
#515 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy /forum/post/20587201


I haven't seen an RS40 next to a DLP before, but the main difference I noticed with DLP vs. LCOS or LCD was that DLP produces more of a CUT out like almost 3D-effect, sort of like pop-up characters in a children's book for DLP, whereas an LCOS always looked too flat to me in bright scenes more like a painting, or lacking depth. Some of it was probably sharpness and some of it probably ANSI contrast, but a perfectly converged Rs40 should at least cut half that advantage, so maybe not as noticeable.


Let me ask in another way, do you see more POP on the DLP in closeups of faces, or did the RS40 ever dissapoint and look kind of too flat suddenly like a painting would look?

Is there any unexplainable magic you see on the DLP POP that isn't there with the RS40, other than just a small difference in contrast in bright scenes?

No, the RS40 has pop and I wouldn't rate the HC4000 as being alot better for pop in closups of faces, if the DLP was any better in this regard it was only say 10-20% at the most. Just a very small difference in contrast in bright scenes would I say is there with the HC4000 vs. the RS40. When I first got the RS40 there was a bigger gap between ansi contrast of the RS40 vs. a DLP like the HC4000 but once I got grayscale calibrated and the gamma fell in line the bright scenes had more pop to them on the RS40. Not quite as much as DLP bright scenes do but closer than you would think. That is one thing about the RS40 that has surprised me is how good bright scenes look. Sure dark scenes look fantastic but bright scenes look great as well. Now this is just in movies. For HD sports I don't like watching them on the RS40, it seems like thats where the DLP sharpness and ANSI contrast really matter but on movies(and I have watched tons of blurays and DVDs on the RS40) there is not a big difference for those bright scenes that pop....they pop on the RS40. I have a friend who has a RS1 and while his dark scenes look very good it is the bright scenes that seem kinda flat like you mention. His RS1 is about 1/4 - 1/2 pixel off in alignment as well.


Mike
 
#516 ·
That is very good and precise info, I think that is the info some of us were looking for (well at least one of us). Seems like JVC improved the issue with bright scenes quite a bit, but still a step behind DLP on some bright scenes like Sports.


Seems like a manufacturer mise well just build a dual technology projector where the LCOS side kicks in for dark scenes, and the DLP side for bright scenes


I'd like to see how that works, might look funny.
 
#517 ·
Hey all woke up to a nice fathers day surprise, wife ordered the HC4000 for me!
It was a bundled deal including 92'' electric screen, Denon HTIB & mount! Sweet....Just one newbie question so far, We will not have any furniture where this system will be installed (for now), will sitting/lying down make a big difference on the display versus sitting on a sofa? If it does i can always move an extra (heavy) sofa down 2 flights of stairs. HC4000 will be ceiling mounted.


Thanks again for all the valuable resources from this forum! I was really set on getting a 82'' RPTV, but after reading the reviews of the HC4000 and a deal too good to pass up, game set & match. At least it a Mits. Many more questions too come.

Thanks again & Happy Fathers day to all you bad boys of the projector world!
 
#518 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by one4g /forum/post/20589191


Hey all woke up to a nice fathers day surprise, wife ordered the HC4000 for me!
It was a bundled deal including 92'' electric screen, Denon HTIB & mount! Sweet....Just one newbie question so far, We will not have any furniture where this system will be installed (for now), will sitting/lying down make a big difference on the display versus sitting on a sofa? If it does i can always move an extra (heavy) sofa down 2 flights of stairs. HC4000 will be ceiling mounted.


Thanks again for all the valuable resources from this forum! I was really set on getting a 82'' RPTV, but after reading the reviews of the HC4000 and a deal too good to pass up, game set & match. At least it a Mits. Many more questions too come.

Thanks again & Happy Fathers day to all you bad boys of the projector world!

I think you will be fine, as long as the screen is not a HP (high power) screen which I really doubt, you should be just fine...unlike us old folks, if I had to sit on the basement floor for anytime, i'd be hurting...




oh and btw I think your wife made a great purchase..lol


Congrats and welcome to the thread, let us know what you think when you get it going..
 
#519 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by one4g /forum/post/20589191


Hey all woke up to a nice fathers day surprise, wife ordered the HC4000 for me!
It was a bundled deal including 92'' electric screen, Denon HTIB & mount! Sweet....Just one newbie question so far, We will not have any furniture where this system will be installed (for now), will sitting/lying down make a big difference on the display versus sitting on a sofa? If it does i can always move an extra (heavy) sofa down 2 flights of stairs. HC4000 will be ceiling mounted.


Thanks again for all the valuable resources from this forum! I was really set on getting a 82'' RPTV, but after reading the reviews of the HC4000 and a deal too good to pass up, game set & match. At least it a Mits. Many more questions too come.

Thanks again & Happy Fathers day to all you bad boys of the projector world!


Wow - she's a keeper
 
#520 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt /forum/post/20590771


I think you will be fine, as long as the screen is not a HP (high power) screen which I really doubt, you should be just fine...unlike us old folks, if I had to sit on the basement floor for anytime, i'd be hurting...




oh and btw I think your wife made a great purchase..lol


Congrats and welcome to the thread, let us know what you think when you get it going..
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjolson /forum/post/20591101


Wow - she's a keeper

Thanks guys! Yes she is a keeper!

Doing more homework on where to place the HC4000 and it will be ceiling mounted. I ran the projector set up that coderguy supplied and this is what i got

Man Cave 24'X14'

-screen 92" 16:9 84" x 57" physical dimensions (I can't go any bigger due to screen will be mounted on a recessed wall)

-ceiling 106"

-6" mount

Projection distance

-Longest 165.5

-Shortest 110.6

So does this mean I get to pick between these distances where to mount the projector (finding the closet joist)? What will be the ideal distance since I can't go any bigger on my screen size.



I tried to 'print screen' the calculator but was a no go.
 
#521 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by one4g /forum/post/20592948


Thanks guys! Yes she is a keeper!

Doing more homework on where to place the HC4000 and it will be ceiling mounted. I ran the projector set up that coderguy supplied and this is what i got

Man Cave 24'X14'

-screen 92" 16:9 84" x 57" physical dimensions (I can't go any bigger due to screen will be mounted on a recessed wall)

-ceiling 106"

-6" mount

Projection distance

-Longest 165.5

-Shortest 110.6

So does this mean I get to pick between these distances where to mount the projector (finding the closet joist)? What will be the ideal distance since I can't go any bigger on my screen size.



I tried to 'print screen' the calculator but was a no go.

I'll crank in the details this evening and post back...no worries
 
#522 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by one4g /forum/post/20592948


So does this mean I get to pick between these distances where to mount the projector (finding the closet joist)? What will be the ideal distance since I can't go any bigger on my screen size.

.

Generally>

> closer PJ is to screen, you'll get a little more lumens (worse blacks)

> further PJ is from screen, little less lumens, but better blacks

> middle range (so middle of the zoom), best part of the lens, so potentually better focus uniformity, less chromatic aberration.

> then there are the aesthetic reasons. Furthest mounting puts the PJ more out of the visual and audible range.


Ultimately most would not notice the difference in the image no matter how close or far you mount it, so I wouldn't fret over this too much
 
#523 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by danieloneil01
I have a question. I've been without a projector for about 1 yr and miss it. My last one was an Optoma HD70.



I've got a new house and I'm using the only thing I have left from the previous theatre, PB13+. Can I get 106" screen based on any of these numbers? It's going to be ceiling mounted.



Config #1


Depth 14'2

Ceiling Height 7'9


Config #2


Depth 11'6

Ceiling Height 8'11



Seating distance for both ones is 12' from head to screen


Total width of wall the screen is going on is 10'7 wide and 8'11 tall. Room is a bit over 1300cuft, small but the sub will rock the room. All components are going into adjacent closet. Room is going to be 100% light controlled, painted dark and used at night. There's a sponsor that has a packaged deal for this, screen and a few other things for a good price. Making sure it will work for me before throwing the money down for it.


Thanks.
A 106" screen will work very well for your room. I'm not sure what you mean by "Depth" in your configurations. If the "Depth" you refer to should be called the "throw distance", then either configuration would work.


The throw distance (= front of PJ lens to screen) for the HC4000 is 10' 8" to 15' 11" for a 106" screen. However, "Config #2" would be better, for a ceiling mount, because you have to allow for the 17.5" offset of the center of the lens to the top of the screen. With a ceiling mount (assumed from your descri(for a 106" screen) from lens center to the top of screen.


You can get all of this information from Projector Central: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mits...ulator-pro.htm .


I have a 13' wide room, with about 2' taken up by an equipment cabinet on one side and 1' for bookshelves on the other side (leaving about 10' of room for the screen width). We sit 11' 6" from our screen and that is perfect for a 1080p PJ. Our PJ (not a HC4000) is mounted 12' 5" from the screen.
 
#524 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by one4g /forum/post/20592948


Thanks guys! Yes she is a keeper!

Doing more homework on where to place the HC4000 and it will be ceiling mounted. I ran the projector set up that coderguy supplied and this is what i got

Man Cave 24'X14'

-screen 92" 16:9 84" x 57" physical dimensions (I can't go any bigger due to screen will be mounted on a recessed wall)

-ceiling 106"

-6" mount

Projection distance

-Longest 165.5

-Shortest 110.6

So does this mean I get to pick between these distances where to mount the projector (finding the closet joist)? What will be the ideal distance since I can't go any bigger on my screen size.



I tried to 'print screen' the calculator but was a no go.


So here is the mits calculator, looks like you got it right..




So the shortest distance for a 92" screen is 110 and the max is 165..fleaman gave you all the details about position, I think mid zoom is usually the best compromise but you will be happy either way, keep in mind the calc also tells you how high your screen will be positioned for a 6" drop...bottom of screen will be about 36"...might be a little high, so you may want to extend the drop tube....you'll have to play around with that to see what you prefer...if you have any more questions let us know
 
#525 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mooney /forum/post/20593279


OK....trying to use the calculator to replace my hc3000 with a hc4000. I can't get it to work after MANY tries...so can someone do the calculations for me ?


106" 16x9 screen, 8' 8" ceiling, front row about 13 ft, screen is 26 1/2" down from ceiling and 30 1/4" above floor, Chief universal mount, bottom of projector 7 1/2" down, center of lens 6 1/2" down from ceiling.


Help will enable me to buy my new projector.

Here ya go...




If you have any more questions let us know...
 
#526 ·
guys,


Just pulled the trigger on the HC4000 with an Elite VMAX 120inch motorised projector.

Could someone send or post some simple picture settings to set the projector up i have read that the RED OTB needs to be scaled back a tiny bit.

Or using Art's (from projector review) calibarations is a good starting point.

Any settings will be good settings for me to use as i rteally have no idea what i will be doing - unless someone like "coderguy" has time and some easy picture settings to post here or even at the front page as a starting point for use newbies.


koaz from australia.
 
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