Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 49 - AVS Forum
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post #1441 of 2857 Old 09-26-2011, 08:43 AM
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Question for everyone.

A friend of mine just bought a HC4000 and I was trying to calibrate it with i1Pro and Calman 4.3 The colors were very red and I had to turn contrast down to about -25, reduce red a whole bunch of things. Has anyone else had the same contrast issue? Also can some people post their cailbrated settigns?

thanks.

David

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post #1442 of 2857 Old 09-26-2011, 09:56 AM
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A bit too much red, especially at first, is normal. I don't think contrast should have to come down that much. Usually the reason contrast has to be turned down is that there is not enough red to "keep up" with that level of green to get that part of the greyscale accurate. So you normally have to turn down contrast (which is basically green) until it balances out with the red and blue. Since you have so much extra red, if anything, you should have higher contrast than usual.
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post #1443 of 2857 Old 09-26-2011, 09:58 AM
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I am headed back over this weekend. We spent a while calibrating, but I did not get to recheck brightness and contrast after calibration as I had to get to another event.

Thanks.

David

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post #1444 of 2857 Old 09-26-2011, 10:27 AM
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Sorry, just noticed you said you had i1Pro and Calman, so you probably know more about this stuff than I do!
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post #1445 of 2857 Old 09-26-2011, 10:51 AM
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The HC3800/4000's push red OTB. It's intentional I believe, to compensate for the new lamp red-push. After 100-200hrs, the red settles back. That is assuming the OTB red-push is slight.

This is common with a lot of PJ's, though the amount of red push varies.

I adjusted the red saturation a couples clicks down when new, now (after 200 hrs) it's back up to the default levels.

But I defer curttard, coder and rovingtravler, you probably all know more than me on this
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post #1446 of 2857 Old 09-26-2011, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rovingtravler View Post

Question for everyone.

A friend of mine just bought a HC4000 and I was trying to calibrate it with i1Pro and Calman 4.3 The colors were very red and I had to turn contrast down to about -25, reduce red a whole bunch of things. Has anyone else had the same contrast issue? Also can some people post their cailbrated settigns?

thanks.

Me and some others Curttard I know for sure, used an i1LT and HCFR to calibrate, it does push red but I was able to get a pretty flat 6500 scale, although I never did a full blown saturation test since the disk I have doesn't lend it to be very useful for that...although I did adjust the red down...I can send you my HCFR files, if you want them let me know...

War Eagle!!!
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post #1447 of 2857 Old 09-28-2011, 06:04 AM
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Hey folks. A new owner of this projector and I have a question related to 1080p and 1:1 pixel mappping. I'm still in the midst of renovating a family room into it's new home.

My bluray player is 1080p/24 frame output. However, it's HDMI output is routed through a receiver that only outputs 1080i to the HC4000. Would it be worthwhile to get a 4x2 HDMI switcher that can handle 1080p and send the output to both the projector and the receiver (for the audio)? I'll be sitting 10 feet from a 106" screen. Think I would notice a difference?
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post #1448 of 2857 Old 09-28-2011, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpeter1093 View Post

Hey folks. A new owner of this projector and I have a question related to 1080p and 1:1 pixel mappping. I'm still in the midst of renovating a family room into it's new home.

My bluray player is 1080p/24 frame output. However, it's HDMI output is routed through a receiver that only outputs 1080i to the HC4000. Would it be worthwhile to get a 4x2 HDMI switcher that can handle 1080p and send the output to both the projector and the receiver (for the audio)? I'll be sitting 10 feet from a 106" screen. Think I would notice a difference?

From my experience 1080p looks superior to 1080i.

If your receiver is old enough that it does not support 1080p, does it support the current audio standards, DTS Master Audio and Dolby TruHD? If not you may want to update the receiver and get the current HDMI switching and audio formats.
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post #1449 of 2857 Old 09-28-2011, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John P View Post

From my experience 1080p looks superior to 1080i.

If your receiver is old enough that it does not support 1080p, does it support the current audio standards, DTS Master Audio and Dolby TruHD? If not you may want to update the receiver and get the current HDMI switching and audio formats.

Thanks, John. My receiver doesn't decode those formats but my Panasonic BD35 player does and outputs PCM to the receiver to handle. I can get a 4x2 switcher from Monoprice for about $35 versus $500 (and up?) for a receiver on a par with what I have now (Pioneer Elite TSX74).

So, it sounds like 1080p is the way to go.
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post #1450 of 2857 Old 09-28-2011, 01:57 PM
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[quote=jpeter1093;21010678I can get a 4x2 switcher from Monoprice for about $35 versus $500 (and up?) for a receiver on a par with what I have now (Pioneer Elite TSX74).

So, it sounds like 1080p is the way to go.[/QUOTE]

Yes, 1080p is the way to go. Sending 1080i to a native 1080p projector would be a handicap.

I have the 4x2 monoprice switcher (2 in, 4 out), works perfect!
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post #1451 of 2857 Old 09-30-2011, 12:09 PM
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I have been reading this thread for awhile on the HC4000. I have a Mitsu HD4000 which is a 720P. We have really enjoyed it, but I'm about to replace the 4th bulb in it. $300 charge for a bulb has me thinking to purchase a new projector. Where do you get your bulbs for your HC4000 and what is the charge for them? I have 2 boys that play Xbox 360 all the time and a bulb usually lasts less than a year at best in our HD4000. Where can I get a deal on the HC4000 if we do go that route.

I have been a fan of JVC, but the price point is over double for the HD250. I also hear not a good projector for sports or gaming, which we do 90% of the time on this projector. Runco has come out with a new projector around the $3K mark as well, but for budget purposes it sounds the HC4000 fits my budget and is good for gaming and sports watching.

What do you use to calibrate your HC4000 as well?
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post #1452 of 2857 Old 09-30-2011, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deach33 View Post

I have been reading this thread for awhile on the HC4000. I have a Mitsu HD4000 which is a 720P. We have really enjoyed it, but I'm about to replace the 4th bulb in it. $300 charge for a bulb has me thinking to purchase a new projector. Where do you get your bulbs for your HC4000 and what is the charge for them? I have 2 boys that play Xbox 360 all the time and a bulb usually lasts less than a year at best in our HD4000. Where can I get a deal on the HC4000 if we do go that route.

I have been a fan of JVC, but the price point is over double for the HD250. I also hear not a good projector for sports or gaming, which we do 90% of the time on this projector. Runco has come out with a new projector around the $3K mark as well, but for budget purposes it sounds the HC4000 fits my budget and is good for gaming and sports watching.

What do you use to calibrate your HC4000 as well?

Try The Projector Place for good prices.
Got mine in early March and have 680 hours on the bulb so I have not replaced it yet.
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post #1453 of 2857 Old 09-30-2011, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deach33 View Post

I have been reading this thread for awhile on the HC4000. I have a Mitsu HD4000 which is a 720P. We have really enjoyed it, but I'm about to replace the 4th bulb in it. $300 charge for a bulb has me thinking to purchase a new projector. Where do you get your bulbs for your HC4000 and what is the charge for them? I have 2 boys that play Xbox 360 all the time and a bulb usually lasts less than a year at best in our HD4000. Where can I get a deal on the HC4000 if we do go that route.

How many hrs are you putting on it a year?

Bottom line is that if you're using a PJ like a TV (or gaming all day as kids will do), then it's gonna get pricy. Never gonna be as economical as an LED LCD flatscreen....
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post #1454 of 2857 Old 09-30-2011, 07:30 PM
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Guys, I'm running a 115" wide 2.35 image at near max zoom on a 1.2 gain screen. I want to improve the brightness while continuing on low lamp mode. I'm doing it by increasing the gamma to either video or sports and keeping everything else at default. Is this ok? The colours do fade a little compared to the cinema mode but the increase in brightness brings life to the picture.

Any other suggestions on how to calibrate to increase overall brightness and pop?
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post #1455 of 2857 Old 09-30-2011, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpeter1093 View Post

Thanks, John. My receiver doesn't decode those formats but my Panasonic BD35 player does and outputs PCM to the receiver to handle. I can get a 4x2 switcher from Monoprice for about $35 versus $500 (and up?) for a receiver on a par with what I have now (Pioneer Elite TSX74).

So, it sounds like 1080p is the way to go.

Easy thing would be HDMI to projector and SPDIF to receiver.
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post #1456 of 2857 Old 09-30-2011, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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The hc4000 is more economical than most if you want to use it as a TV. Doesn't bother me really, you can probably average 2000 to 4000 hours out of a Mits lamp as long as you have lots of SPARE brightness to begin with (HP screen good, 1.0 gain screen bad). The key is overdoing the lumens at first so you can always run the lamp in low mode.


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post #1457 of 2857 Old 10-03-2011, 12:04 PM
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What mount are you guys using? I have a videoSecu right not but I cant get it tight so i'd like to try something different. It doesnt need to extend down, ceiling level is preferable.
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post #1458 of 2857 Old 10-03-2011, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by squeeks View Post

What mount are you guys using? I have a videoSecu right not but I cant get it tight so i'd like to try something different. It doesnt need to extend down, ceiling level is preferable.

Chief RPA245, includes adapter plate for HC4000. It can be mounted direct to the ceiling or used with drop pipe. Projector can be removed and replaced without affecting the adjustments. Once adjusting screws are tightened projector will not move.

http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/RPA245

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post20235845
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post #1459 of 2857 Old 10-03-2011, 12:59 PM
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We should begin to log in setting values to see if we can avoid the huge cost of calibrating.

Post some of your values and see if there are similarities...
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post #1460 of 2857 Old 10-03-2011, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post

We should begin to log in setting values to see if we can avoid the huge cost of calibrating.

Post some of your values and see if there are similarities...

Not really that useful, grab a disk and download the content from AVS or purchase one of the disk and run through the patterns...or get a i1lt and HCFR and do a 6500 greyscale...there are just to many variations, screen type material, grey, white off white, bulb life etc...it's just to easy to run through a basic calibration since the mits is close OTB...

War Eagle!!!
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post #1461 of 2857 Old 10-03-2011, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John P View Post

Chief RPA245, includes adapter plate for HC4000. It can be mounted direct to the ceiling or used with drop pipe. Projector can be removed and replaced without affecting the adjustments. Once adjusting screws are tightened projector will not move.

http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/RPA245

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post20235845

The chief, while more on the pricey side is a very good mount...in this case you get what you pay for, a quality mount, +1

War Eagle!!!
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post #1462 of 2857 Old 10-03-2011, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

Not really that useful, grab a disk and download the content from AVS or purchase one of the disk and run through the patterns...or get a i1lt and HCFR and do a 6500 greyscale...there are just to many variations, screen type material, grey, white off white, bulb life etc...it's just to easy to run through a basic calibration since the mits is close OTB...

Yup, too many variables....
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post #1463 of 2857 Old 10-03-2011, 06:57 PM
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I posted this before, but didn't get any response so I'm posting it again. I'm running a 115" wide 2.35 image near max zoom (13.5 ft throw) on a 1.2 gain screen. I want to improve the brightness while continuing on low lamp mode. I'm doing it by increasing the gamma to either video or sports and keeping everything else at default. Is this ok? The colours do fade a little compared to the cinema mode but the increase in brightness brings life to the picture.

Any other suggestions on how to calibrate to increase overall brightness and pop? Or should I just switch to Standard lamp mode for the best results?
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post #1464 of 2857 Old 10-03-2011, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Are you using a calibration meter, try turning on brilliant color and messing with that.


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
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post #1465 of 2857 Old 10-03-2011, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Are you using a calibration meter, try turning on brilliant color and messing with that.

No. I don't have a calibration meter and BC is off.

P.S I assume your question is for me
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post #1466 of 2857 Old 10-03-2011, 07:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Turning BC on will improve brightness, if you had a meter it's easier since then you can re-calibrate it post-BC.


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post #1467 of 2857 Old 10-04-2011, 05:02 AM
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Fan speed increases during bright mode I'm thinking ? I'll be in the same boat with a 100" wide CIH..... Not too interested in pop, but a little brighter pic would be nice
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post #1468 of 2857 Old 10-04-2011, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Turning BC on will improve brightness, if you had a meter it's easier since then you can re-calibrate it post-BC.

That was a superb suggestion coderguy! Makes a huge difference to the brightness of the image while retaining the image balance. My previous idea of changing the gamma resulted in slightly washed out images. Thanks a lot!!!

The manual says that Brilliant Color can be adjusted in increments of 0-10 but my menu has "Auto", "On" and "Off" with Auto and Off being the same in reality. Any idea about this?
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post #1469 of 2857 Old 10-04-2011, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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No idea, never noticed anything but On or Off, although knowing the Mits's menu system, there is probably a hidden click if you click on it instead of changing it with the arrow button.

You gotta love Mits's menus, kind of like playing Zelda and trying to find that last acorn


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post #1470 of 2857 Old 10-04-2011, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post

Fan speed increases during bright mode I'm thinking ? I'll be in the same boat with a 100" wide CIH..... Not too interested in pop, but a little brighter pic would be nice

For you and contentedbloke, you can always achieve a brighter picture by playing with the preset gamma and video even in low lamp, each one has the plus and minus. It will depend on what kind of material you are watching and whether you mind the output...it tends to push green on the very brightest settings, now if watching with ambient light and like football it may look ok to you...you will have to play with it and see, I never liked the BC feature, in skin tones and some solid colors I could see some dithering in the picture, but I'm fairly picky..thats just me, you may not notice it and it might not be distracting...BC will add lumens for sure...once you find something you like post back and then others can read and see what you have done...I tend to run mine in calibrated mode although it throws the lowest amount of light I think it looks the best that way...

War Eagle!!!
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