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post #121 of 2858 Old 05-14-2011, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by imitchely View Post
How close to the ceiling can I mount my HC4000? Is 2" from the ceiling too close or will it cause problems being that close? I want to mount it as close to the ceiling as possible to make up for the 18.2" off set I will have...
Mine is within an inch of the ceiling, no problems.
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post #122 of 2858 Old 05-14-2011, 09:27 AM
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Mine is within an inch of the ceiling, no problems.
Thank You... That will help a ton!
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post #123 of 2858 Old 05-14-2011, 10:53 AM
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This projector amazes my wife and I more and more with every use. Watched Tron Legacy last night-I couldn't be more pleased with the way I was able to utilize the 2.35 and vertical position adjustment to hide the letterbox bars/Imax material above the screen.
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post #124 of 2858 Old 05-14-2011, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Ahamay17 View Post

You can mount it as close as you like as far as the projector operating properly, the only problem is the actual mount itself... Is there a commercial mount that will allow you to get it that close?

I purchased the universal mount from Monoprice and I modified it a bit to reduce the height. It still has all of the adjustment abilities without the extra 3 - 4" of length that I dont want.
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post #125 of 2858 Old 05-16-2011, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bishopt View Post
You asked..here ya go, you'll love it...Italian Job

Starting out with a good one..only for shadow detail


Let me know if you have a particular movie/scene....it's a great projector
@bishopt:

I saw pics of your setup in another thread-- very nice. Could you show off some screenshots in the day time (or with some ambient light) zoomed out so I can see how much light is in the room and how it's affecting the picture quality? I'd like to see how well that Jamestown screen rejects the ambient light and how well the HC4000 overcomes it as well. I've seen high contrast screens in practice really sacrifice whites and colors to deepen blacks, but I think adjusting pj settings could help that.

Could you post the following content and share which display mode you're using for:
(1) A movie screenshot with a fairly dark scene and one a little more balanced. I don't expect miracles, but I'd like to see if the scenes are watchable.
(2) Any sports. I'm gonna use my projector to watch a bunch of sports during the day and I plan on going with little to moderate light control at the most so I'm not sitting in the dark. I figure some directional lighting (away from the screen) will help.

BTW, my HC4000 arrives tomorrow night, but I probably won't fire it up until Saturday when I'm moved into my new place. I'm looking forward to sharing some first impressions to help other forum visitors like myself who are on the fence.

Thanks in advance!
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post #126 of 2858 Old 05-16-2011, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by richmack View Post

@bishopt:

I saw pics of your setup in another thread-- very nice. Could you show off some screenshots in the day time (or with some ambient light) zoomed out so I can see how much light is in the room and how it's affecting the picture quality? I'd like to see how well that Jamestown screen rejects the ambient light and how well the HC4000 overcomes it as well. I've seen high contrast screens in practice really sacrifice whites and colors to deepen blacks, but I think adjusting pj settings could help that.

Could you post the following content and share which display mode you're using for:
(1) A movie screenshot with a fairly dark scene and one a little more balanced. I don't expect miracles, but I'd like to see if the scenes are watchable.
(2) Any sports. I'm gonna use my projector to watch a bunch of sports during the day and I plan on going with little to moderate light control at the most so I'm not sitting in the dark. I figure some directional lighting (away from the screen) will help.

BTW, my HC4000 arrives tomorrow night, but I probably won't fire it up until Saturday when I'm moved into my new place. I'm looking forward to sharing some first impressions to help other forum visitors like myself who are on the fence.

Thanks in advance!


Sure no problem, busy tonight and tomorrow but should be able to get something up on Wednesday. Sports that are outside are much forgiving then dark movies so you can change the gamma settings and go with something brighter and enable BC etc...If you can control the light from hitting the screen then you will be better off, any light hitting the screen will wash the color and blacks away. So the 2 screens I was looking at were the jamestown grey and the elite grey, I think the elite grey would have been better for ambient light since it is much darker grey, the jamestown is much lighter and is better for color's etc, it still drops blacks but not very much but more so than say a white screen....2 of the better known screens for dealing with ambient light are the black diamond and the firehawk, both were out of my price range...I watch a lot of college football and I think during the daytime I will be just fine, for me I will just pull the curtains that filter the light but doesn't make it pitch black, turn to one of my higher presets and it should be fine for some ambient light...all of my movie shots are made at night with no ambient light using my calibrated ( used HCFR and a i1 LT meter) setting, low lamp mode. I don't think that you will want to watch any dark movies with any ambient light, it just washes it out too much...but I'm pretty picky but watching TV etc, I can tolerate more.....

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post #127 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

Sure no problem, busy tonight and tomorrow but should be able to get something up on Wednesday. Sports that are outside are much forgiving then dark movies so you can change the gamma settings and go with something brighter and enable BC etc...If you can control the light from hitting the screen then you will be better off, any light hitting the screen will wash the color and blacks away. So the 2 screens I was looking at were the jamestown grey and the elite grey, I think the elite grey would have been better for ambient light since it is much darker grey, the jamestown is much lighter and is better for color's etc, it still drops blacks but not very much but more so than say a white screen....2 of the better known screens for dealing with ambient light are the black diamond and the firehawk, both were out of my price range...I watch a lot of college football and I think during the daytime I will be just fine, for me I will just pull the curtains that filter the light but doesn't make it pitch black, turn to one of my higher presets and it should be fine for some ambient light...all of my movie shots are made at night with no ambient light using my calibrated ( used HCFR and a i1 LT meter) setting, low lamp mode. I don't think that you will want to watch any dark movies with any ambient light, it just washes it out too much...but I'm pretty picky but watching TV etc, I can tolerate more.....

Thanks for the response and take your time with those screenshots! Don't want to put you out.

The majority of my movie (critical) watching will be done at night. I currently own a Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M so I'm pretty picky about getting the best possible picture from my source material. Of course the 4000 isn't a Kuro, but no commercial movie theater is (at least to my knowledge). That's ultimately what I want-- an inexpensive in-home movie theater experience. The screenshots I've seen of yours have quite a bit of wow factor for me (for a $1200 pj), but of course YMMV due to screen material, ambient light, lens throw, etc.

As for watching sports with ambient light, yeah I don't expect miracles. I just want a large format to enjoy games on but still be comfortable enough with the picture as not to be distracted by less contrast, washed out blacks, etc. It's probably more an issue of getting accustomed to the picture.
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post #128 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 08:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Screenshots are fun, but they don't tell you anything.

www.projectorreviews.com if you want to research black levels between different projectors.

The hc4000's weakness is black levels, whether or not you will be bothered by the level of blacks it can do is an unknown.
The hc4000's strength is bright scenes and SPORTS, it is pretty much unmatched in regards to bright scene POP. I can attest to this having seen over 10 projectors now, and having owned around 6 (mostly recent models too, and some with MSRP's over $7k).

The hc4000 is (IMHO) FAR ahead in bright scene POP of every other projector I have tried anywhere near its price, except for a Sanyo z4000 (but the Sanyo isn't bright enough for most). The Mits still beats the Sanyo in bright scenes though, just not by that much. The Benq w1100/w1200 would be another choice that can give you more brigthness and should have the same level of POP as the Mits, but probably has even slightly worse black levels than the Mits. There really is no other projector anywhere near this price range that can do both things well, the closest thing would be the Epson 8700ub, but even the Epson might not be bright enough for you overall in its best mode.

The entire reason I have owned so many projectors, is I've been trying to find one that can do BOTH things well (dark and bright scenes). Don't get me wrong, it's not that other projectors don't look good on bright scenes, they just don't have the dimensionality and depth that the DLP - Dark Chip 3 has.

For me, dark scenes do not have much POP 90% of the time, I never thought of POP as being in dark scenes. Sure it does exist on some things (like space scenes, SCI FI), but really bright scene POP is usually what I find more engaging.

The Mits does not look washed out as long as there is enough brightness to mix with the darkness, for instance, if you saw the FIRST episode of GAME OF THRONES, the opening sequence where the guy is running through the woods and finds the dead bodies with the little "horror" girl holding the head....

In that sequence, the Mits does fairly well, even though it is dark overall, there are enough bright scenes (the snow he is running on for instance), where the Mits keeps up fine.
However, go to a space scene or a darker scene with minimal lighting, and it is very apparent that the Mits hc4000 will give a tad bit of a washed out look. It's not terrible by any means, but it's just not this projector's strength.

The next projector to look at would be the Epson 8700ub, it will do very very well in dark scenes, but you do lose a bit of that DLP POP. Another one is the Sanyo z4000, same thing as the Epson although it's not quite as dark as the Epson. Neither the 8700ub or the z4000 are that bright in a best mode (with the Epson being the brighter of the two, and quite a lot brighter in a NON-BEST mode).

So you really are pretty much stuck with the Mits hc4000 if you want maximum bright-scene POP, unless you want to move up to an Infocus sp8602 (a $3k machine).
There is also the Benq w6000, it does handle darker scenes much better, but it is heavily reliant on the IRIS, and accoridng
to Cine4's measurements, the native contrast of the Benq is no match for Mits's DC3. Although not sure how accurate that measurement was (most of their measurements are accurate though).


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post #129 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Screenshots are fun, but they don't tell you anything.

www.projectorreviews.com if you want to research black levels between different projectors.

The hc4000's weakness is black levels, whether or not you will be bothered by the level of blacks it can do is an unknown.
The hc4000's strength is bright scenes and SPORTS, it is pretty much unmatched in regards to bright scene POP. I can attest to this having seen over 10 projectors now, and having owned around 6 (mostly recent models too, and some with MSRP's over $7k).

The hc4000 is (IMHO) FAR ahead in bright scene POP of every other projector I have tried anywhere near its price, except for a Sanyo z4000 (but the Sanyo isn't bright enough for most). The Mits still beats the Sanyo in bright scenes though, just not by that much. The Benq w1100/w1200 would be another choice that can give you more brigthness and should have the same level of POP as the Mits, but probably has even slightly worse black levels than the Mits. There really is no other projector anywhere near this price range that can do both things well, the closest thing would be the Epson 8700ub, but even the Epson might not be bright enough for you overall in its best mode.

The entire reason I have owned so many projectors, is I've been trying to find one that can do BOTH things well (dark and bright scenes). Don't get me wrong, it's not that other projectors don't look good on bright scenes, they just don't have the dimensionality and depth that the DLP - Dark Chip 3 has.

For me, dark scenes do not have much POP 90% of the time, I never thought of POP as being in dark scenes. Sure it does exist on some things (like space scenes, SCI FI), but really bright scene POP is usually what I find more engaging.

The Mits does not look washed out as long as there is enough brightness to mix with the darkness, for instance, if you saw the FIRST episode of GAME OF THRONES, the opening sequence where the guy is running through the woods and finds the dead bodies with the little "horror" girl holding the head....

In that sequence, the Mits does fairly well, even though it is dark overall, there are enough bright scenes (the snow he is running on for instance), where the Mits keeps up fine.
However, go to a space scene or a darker scene with minimal lighting, and it is very apparent that the Mits hc4000 will give a tad bit of a washed out look. It's not terrible by any means, but it's just not this projector's strength.

The next projector to look at would be the Epson 8700ub, it will do very very well in dark scenes, but you do lose a bit of that DLP POP. Another one is the Sanyo z4000, same thing as the Epson although it's not quite as dark as the Epson. Neither the 8700ub or the z4000 are that bright in a best mode (with the Epson being the brighter of the two, and quite a lot brighter in a NON-BEST mode).

So you really are pretty much stuck with the Mits hc4000 if you want maximum bright-scene POP, unless you want to move up to an Infocus sp8602 (a $3k machine).
There is also the Benq w6000, it does handle darker scenes much better, but it is heavily reliant on the IRIS, and accoridng
to Cine4's measurements, the native contrast of the Benq is no match for Mits's DC3. Although not sure how accurate that measurement was (most of their measurements are accurate though).

coderguy: I've read Art's reviews and yes, you definitely have to take screenshots with a grain of salt. I was strongly leaning toward the 8700, but there was just something about the bang-for-buck quality of the Mits that drew me to it. With the money I save I can use that for other things to set my room up like acoustic panels, drapes, mount, cables, etc.

As for black levels, I don't expect inky blacks in dark scenes for a budget projector. Majority of content I watch is mixed-to-bright so I'd prefer the pop and 3-dimensionality that the Mits will probably give me.

I went to see Fast Five at the theater a couple of weeks ago and there's a scene at the beginning where Paul Walker's character is driving at night and I couldn't believe how flat the image looked (dark grays and poor shadow detail) and thinking back, I'm sure that 99% of my theater watching experience has probably been this way. It's easier to pick out now because of the improvement of picture quality (more access to reference level PQ) at home that has really exposed this flaw at the theater. For the majority of us, I think we'd prefer a larger, immersive experience (92"+) with decent PQ over reference level PQ on at a much smaller scale (50-60").
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post #130 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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I would probably take a Mits hc4000 over an 8700ub as well if I had to just pick one (but it's a very tough choice either way), especially given the current price difference. I don't think I'd be that happy just owning the Epson by itself, owning both would kind of cool.

The best way I can describe the difference in dimensionality is that when you are looking down a street, on an LCD the picture appears more like a painting, on a DLP it appears a tad bit more like looking out a window. This is only for certain scenes and many times the projectors have the same depth, or one or the other beats each other on some scenes, but you can't beat the Mits for brighter scenes.


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post #131 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 09:41 AM
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Yeah, that's why I got a plasma over an LCD flat panel. The plasma's black levels, shadow detail, and inherent faster refresh rate adds a level of realism that LCD's have been trying to chase. The gap has certainly closed, but I still prefer plasma technology.
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post #132 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 09:43 AM
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The problem I have with LCD is motion smear...I watch sports and it drives me nuts....just don't like it..I own some pretty good samsung LCD's, but after the DLP I'm done, if I had a higher budget I would take a gander at the infocus, or the JVC hd250....but right now, for what I spent the mits just throws upa great picture, I did calibrate and I think that helps to bring some of that out, plus the grey screen....Can't wait to hear your first impressions..


No problem on the screenshots, just have a ballgame tonight and had scout stuff last night, I have Fast Movie, Tokyo Drift waiting for me that I want to watch again...I've been re-watching a ton of movies that I like....no going back once you have a projector

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post #133 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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The motion blur is mostly gone now on these newer LCD projectors, but instead what I mainly see is during a cable signal artifact, the LCD takes longer to recover during motion than a DLP. Kind of hard to explain, you'd just have to see it to know what I mean.

For perfect sources, I didn't see any problems with motion on these newer LCD's, even with CFI off, although during panning sequences, the DLP is still a tiny bit smoother unless you enable CFI (although not a big fan of CFI, it's good for sports like Art says, not for much of anything else). Sometimes CFI makes people almost look like they are floating instead of walking.

The new pulldown modes and higher pre-conversions of the refresh sequences has basically fixed LCD motion, again though I didn't test it that precisely, but it wasn't enough of a difference to matter to me (it could in gaming or in sports though, but then CFI can help that a little).


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post #134 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

The motion blur is mostly gone now on these newer LCD projectors, but instead what I mainly see is during a cable signal artifact, the LCD takes longer to recover during motion than a DLP. Kind of hard to explain, you'd just have to see it to know what I mean.

.....


Yeah I hear ya, but for me the issue was RBE, as long as I didn't see RBE and I could get the placement to work DLP solves a lot of issues that bugged me, convergence, motion blur etc.....Since I'm not RBE at least not with the 4x wheels I love the look of DLP....

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post #135 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richmack View Post

I went to see Fast Five at the theater a couple of weeks ago and there's a scene at the beginning where Paul Walker's character is driving at night and I couldn't believe how flat the image looked (dark grays and poor shadow detail) and thinking back, I'm sure that 99% of my theater watching experience has probably been this way. It's easier to pick out now because of the improvement of picture quality (more access to reference level PQ) at home that has really exposed this flaw at the theater. For the majority of us, I think we'd prefer a larger, immersive experience (92"+) with decent PQ over reference level PQ on at a much smaller scale (50-60").

Most commercial theaters have poorly maintained or set-up projections. Under the best conditions 35mm film theaters produce something about 2,000:1 on/off contrast. But usually it's lower than that.
How many generations down the print is (and how worn), can be a big factor.

Also, each theater tends to have different levels of ambient lighting (exit signs, corridor lighting, etc.), which affects onscreen contrast.

Your Kuro will easily outperform that.

The HC4000 usually will also.

I have the HC3800 and haven't seen a commercial theater image that had better PQ so far, but I don't really go to the theater anymore

Last great PQ flick I saw in the theater was Avatar IMAX 3D. It was the best PQ I've ever seen, though it was in 3D so I saw blurring and it was dimmer with the glasses on. Comparing to my 2D Avatar blu ray on the HC3800, don't notice any PQ differences, but of course I don't have them side by side to compare.

Digital commercial theaters will perform closer to the ideal film set up, but have the advantage of not using film prints that are worn or a few generations down.
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post #136 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

Yeah I hear ya, but for me the issue was RBE, as long as I didn't see RBE and I could get the placement to work DLP solves a lot of issues that bugged me, convergence, motion blur etc.....Since I'm not RBE at least not with the 4x wheels I love the look of DLP....

My main issue with LCD is just the less POPPY look in bright scenes.

I watched a movie at 35 FTL once (Into the Wild, good movie but not for everyone). In the beginning scenes in Alaska, the picture was so bright that it really felt like the sun was shining in my face off the snow, TOTAL POP though. I didn't make it through the whole movie at that brightness though, but it was funny.

I'm still waiting for 2 RMA's to be finalized before I can even buy another projector. I want to move to a larger screen, and in this case the Sanyo isn't going to do it well enough for someone that likes the image blindly bright.

Basically down to Infocus sp8602, another Mits hc4000, a JVC HD250, or an Rs40.

I wish I knew if the Infocus sp8602 was really worth 2.5x the cost of the Mits, or if the JVC HD250 or Rs40 has enough bright scene POP.
It sux there is nowhere to TEST projectors other than my own house.


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post #137 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 01:10 PM
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Ok, so if I buy a 2.35:1 screen for my hc4000... what do I manually have to do to get a 2.35 image on there. Is it just zoom in. And then zoom out for 16:9. I know people say they are using the anamorphic lens mode.. But you NEED a lens to use this mode, correct?

My projector should come in thursday and I was told to go 2.35 with this projector. I just dont totally understand what my best option would be.

Thanks for reading please chime in if you can.
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post #138 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Ticarus- View Post

Ok, so if I buy a 2.35:1 screen for my hc4000... what do I manually have to do to get a 2.35 image on there. Is it just zoom in. And then zoom out for 16:9. I know people say they are using the anamorphic lens mode.. But you NEED a lens to use this mode, correct?

My projector should come in thursday and I was told to go 2.35 with this projector. I just dont totally understand what my best option would be.

Thanks for reading please chime in if you can.

No lens required....

Curttard is running a CIH setup, so the basic setup is you size your 2.35 screen, make that one as big as you want, and change the settings in the menu to do the work:


1.) MENU => IMAGE => ADVANCED MENU => OK (enter button) => SCREEN SIZE = CINEMA SCOPE(2.35:1)

2.) MENU => FEATURE => ASPECT = AUTO

3.) To switch between the 2.35:1 and 16:9 modes, use the "Aspect" button on the remote -- "Auto" for 2.35:1 and "16:9" for 16:9 sources (or 4:3 for SDTV sources).

Now Curttard can chime in here but I think the jist is you loose some resolution when running in 16:9 mode since your not using all of the pixels, but for most HDTV content I don't think you would notice the difference, I think you also loose some brightness...

War Eagle!!!
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post #139 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Ticarus- View Post

Ok, so if I buy a 2.35:1 screen for my hc4000... what do I manually have to do to get a 2.35 image on there. Is it just zoom in. And then zoom out for 16:9. I know people say they are using the anamorphic lens mode.. But you NEED a lens to use this mode, correct?

My projector should come in thursday and I was told to go 2.35 with this projector. I just dont totally understand what my best option would be.

Thanks for reading please chime in if you can.

Who told you to go 2.35? I'm not saying you shouldn't-That's exactly what I did. It just seems like too many people advise to go with 16:9, and it's not often anybody selling an HC4000 even knows how well 2.35 works out with a Mits PJ.
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post #140 of 2858 Old 05-17-2011, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by -Ticarus- View Post

Ok, so if I buy a 2.35:1 screen for my hc4000... what do I manually have to do to get a 2.35 image on there. Is it just zoom in. And then zoom out for 16:9. I know people say they are using the anamorphic lens mode.. But you NEED a lens to use this mode, correct?

My projector should come in thursday and I was told to go 2.35 with this projector. I just dont totally understand what my best option would be.

Thanks for reading please chime in if you can.

The solution to test it is simple, buy the projector from a place that allows returns without restocking fee, project 2.35 onto a wall, see if you like the way it looks (most walls give images close to a screen as long as you are not sitting too close and the paint is smooth enough), then if you like it, buy the 2.35 screen. If not, buy the 16:9 screen.

If you don't have a wall to project onto for a test, go buy some white sheets or similar material and cut it down to 2.35 size until you make your choice on a screen.


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post #141 of 2858 Old 05-18-2011, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

No lens required....

Curttard is running a CIH setup, so the basic setup is you size your 2.35 screen, make that one as big as you want, and change the settings in the menu to do the work:


Now Curttard can chime in here but I think the jist is you loose some resolution when running in 16:9 mode since your not using all of the pixels, but for most HDTV content I don't think you would notice the difference, I think you also loose some brightness...

For me, on a 10ft wide 2.35 screen sitting at most 10ft away, I do not notice the loss in resolution when using the Aspect button to scale down to 16:9, versus repositioning the projector, zooming in, and viewing "true" 16:9.

I do, however, notice the difference in brightness (using the aspect button to scale down to 16:9 will give you a dimmer image, since you're actually projecting a much larger image but only using a portion of the panel). Depending on your screen size and screen material, this may be an issue. For me, it's not a dealbreaker by any means, and I often watch tv using the Aspect method. BUT, I did build my mount with two shelves, so for movies and gaming I will move the PJ to a lower shelf and zoom in for native 16:9. It only takes a minute or two, and at most I have to do it once a night, and this way I get both kinds of material at their best.

I will say that a 2.35 is 100% worth any hassle or trade-offs. It is the way movies were meant to be seen and honestly the difference for 2.35 movies is staggering. Sometimes I'll hit the Aspect button just to see how I *used* to have to see those movies, and a letterboxed 16:9 image is just so tiny and underwhelming in the middle of that screen that it's ridiculous. I find myself re-watching many movies I've seen many times, because the difference of viewing them as they should be seen is so dramatic and immersive. If your room allows the size of a 2.35 screen, you owe it to yourself!
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Originally Posted by curttard View Post

I will say that a 2.35 is 100% worth any hassle or trade-offs. It is the way movies were meant to be seen and honestly the difference for 2.35 movies is staggering. Sometimes I'll hit the Aspect button just to see how I *used* to have to see those movies, and a letterboxed 16:9 image is just so tiny and underwhelming in the middle of that screen that it's ridiculous. I find myself re-watching many movies I've seen many times, because the difference of viewing them as they should be seen is so dramatic and immersive. If your room allows the size of a 2.35 screen, you owe it to yourself!

I'm convinced to try 2.35, it is a little more immersive at the very least when I projected onto a wall when doing it.

There are also remote powered shelves that can be lowered and raised, although the only cheap ones I can find are by converting LCD TV POWERED mounts into a projector mount. For people willing to go through the trouble, the Mits zoom can also be automated with remote zoom abilities, but it takes some DIY work (people can check telescope forums if you want people to help you do it).

There should be some remote control shelves that go up and down cheap enough from somewhere, just no idea where. There are motorized mounts as well, but everyone I've seen costs a ton.
The only problem with the LCD TV moveable remote mount method is it somewhat of an EYE SORE.

Anyhow, just a couple additional thoughts.


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hey curttard... how far is your projector from the screen to produce a 10 ft wide screen? I want a 8-9ft length screen and only have 13ft back to play with.

Thanks again for all your help.
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Quote:
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There should be some remote control shelves that go up and down cheap enough from somewhere, just no idea where. There are motorized mounts as well, but everyone I've seen costs a ton.
.

Remote control shelves would be awesome. My setup is definitely an eyesore due to my utter lack of any kind of handyman-ness. Multiple holes, pencil lines everywhere, ragged cuts, crappy wood, etc. Gets the job done though.

Quote:


how far is your projector from the screen to produce a 10 ft wide screen? I want a 8-9ft length screen and only have 13ft back to play with.

I'm at 145" back. If you use one of the projector calculators, just calculate distance as though you're doing a regular 16:9 that is as wide as you want your 2.35 to be. I wanted to be as close as possible so I would have to use max wideangle, in order to squeeze every last bit of brightness out of it.
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Ok so just as I was taking off to work this morning the ups lady was delivering my hc4000. I was shocked to see it was sent only in its original mitsubishi box. Is this normal? I purchased from newegg. Really newegg.... too much work to double box it. Oh well, at least I have her now. Cant wait to get home and start tinkering.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Ticarus- View Post

Ok so just as I was taking off to work this morning the ups lady was delivering my hc4000. I was shocked to see it was sent only in its original mitsubishi box. Is this normal? I purchased from newegg. Really newegg.... too much work to double box it. Oh well, at least I have her now. Cant wait to get home and start tinkering.

It's normal, if anyone double boxes a projector, consider it abnormal, although I do agree an extra box wouldn't hurt

They do things that way to save shipping costs, so that when they offer "free shipping", they don't take as much of a hit.
They probably got some complex corporate formula for damage claim recovery time vs. shipping weight reduction packaging (lower shipping costs).


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post #147 of 2858 Old 05-19-2011, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Ticarus- View Post

Ok so just as I was taking off to work this morning the ups lady was delivering my hc4000. I was shocked to see it was sent only in its original mitsubishi box. Is this normal? I purchased from newegg. Really newegg.... too much work to double box it. Oh well, at least I have her now. Cant wait to get home and start tinkering.

Mine was that way, when I was delaing with Benq, the W6000 that I got from them were double boxed....but I think your mits will be fine...I bet working knowing its sitting at home is tough...*cough*cough* not feeling to well


Let us know what you initial impressions are....enjoy!

War Eagle!!!
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post #148 of 2858 Old 05-19-2011, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by -Ticarus- View Post

Ok so just as I was taking off to work this morning the ups lady was delivering my hc4000. I was shocked to see it was sent only in its original mitsubishi box. Is this normal? I purchased from newegg. Really newegg.... too much work to double box it. Oh well, at least I have her now. Cant wait to get home and start tinkering.

I received mine from Newegg this past Tuesday double-boxed. The mitsu box was in a Newegg box surrounded by packing material.
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post #149 of 2858 Old 05-19-2011, 09:59 AM
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HAHA... no joke. Well the projector is going into my house, which isnt complete yet. About 2 more weeks. So for now I will set up in my apartment. This weekend I will take to my home to get some screen size measurements so I can start looking for sceen.

Any Screen suggestions for this projector?
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post #150 of 2858 Old 05-19-2011, 10:02 AM
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I received mine from Newegg this past Tuesday double-boxed. The mitsu box was in a Newegg box surrounded by packing material.

I see how it is Newegg.

In all honesty I bought a open box hc4000 from newegg so maybe thats why I get no double-box. Get what you pay for.

How are you liking it so far richmack?
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