Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 55 - AVS Forum
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post #1621 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Apparently the Mits keystone works better than some projectors, but I've never tested this theory as an absolute. Although I assume this isn't due to the keystone itself, it's that the Mits is very sharp at it's most focused point, so there is more initial room for "keystone degradation" to have a lesser end-result effect than most projectors.

Yet another reason to get the Mits if you only need 2-4 clicks of keystone, the picture it produces is quite fabulous.

I'm surprised I'm getting the JVC RS-45 instead of another Mits, like the hc7800. I just have to try a JVC, not having tried it is eating away at me, I am betting I will sell it later and go to a Mits hc7800 as my end-game projector, but hopefully I won't lose too much money selling an RS-45 after I test it.

I actually think the Mits hc4000 is BY FAR and easily on of the best projectors ever made, in nearly all aspects of the design even irregardless of price, and except for the zoom modes that are limited, it has some features that very few projectors have... The calibration options on the Mits hc4000 are better than some projectors costing $10,000, that is the scary part


Hey coder, I saw in the RS45 thread about a pre-order price...could u shoot me a PM with what the Street price is going to be for this thing...Motion is one thing that I will be curious to hear your impressions on, one thing that I see come up in the threads...I think I saw that Josayh might be getting one also...will be interesting to hear both of your feedback...

War Eagle!!!
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post #1622 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpeter1093 View Post

I have the Chief RPA mount which has a similar two piece design. To fine tune the left/right adjustment; did you just leave the screws attaching the base to the ceiling slightly loose (even after you finished the adjustment). That's the problem I'm having, you loosen the screws, put the projector back up; twist to align, then when you take the projector back off to tighten the screws you invariably end up messing up the alignment again. Any tips?

I don't have any real tips. The only thing I would suggest would be to tighten the screws only partially so that it is snug but not tight - so that you can twist it but only with sufficient force. That was one of the things I worried about when I put mine up and was thinking about how I would do it. However, I tightened it tightly (because I didn't like the idea of them being even a little loose) and then took my chances. As it turned out I had enough play in the other areas of the mount that I could adjust for the couple inches that it was initially off.

Good Luck!
Jim
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post #1623 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

Hey coder, I saw in the RS45 thread about a pre-order price...could u shoot me a PM with what the Street price is going to be for this thing...Motion is one thing that I will be curious to hear your impressions on, one thing that I see come up in the threads...I think I saw that Josayh might be getting one also...will be interesting to hear both of your feedback...

The early bird special was too much to resist! Like Coder it's a trial type thing.
I may get stuck with it for a while, since I'm moving soon and not sure what DLPs can work in the room with offset.

I know of several dealers that had or have smoking prices on the RS45.
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post #1624 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by TwinCitiesJim View Post

Thanks guys for your comments. It sounds like the setup function is basically doing what I thought so I will leave it off.

As for the issue on the non-smooth gradation in the whites, I am still trying to figure it out, but haven't had a lot of time to play. Since none of you seem to be seeing the same thing, I will do some more troubleshooting. I am certain it is not my screen since I did not have this on my Benq. If I remember right, I think my gamma is set on cinema mode, but not sure if I remember the options correctly at this time....

....I think I may try a few more of the menu options to make sure it is not some stupid user error where I turned something on or off that I should not have. I will let you guys know what I figured out if I do figure it out.

I did play around for a little while this weekend with my setup, and I have partial resolution to my problem. I actually had two issues with my white levels that I had been troubleshooting and I thought they were the same thing. The non-smooth gradation in whites issue that I saw was actually from turning brilliant Color on. When I turn it off, it goes back to smooth on those test patterns. I feel stupid now that remembered things incorrectly.

The other problem I had (which I thought was the same) was related to a certain setup image on my digital video Essentials disk. It was an image that I found in the past to be easiest to use to set the contrast and brightness controls. In that image there were boxes that showed the light levels from black to white. In the blackest box and the whitest box there were smaller boxes that were just slightly lighter (on the black one) and just slightly darker (on the white one). I would adjust brightness until I could just barely see the lighter black box and adjust contrast until I could just barely see the darker white box. Once I did this, all of the other test patterns usually looked just as they were supposed to look. For some reason I cannot get the darker white box to blend in with the whitest white box on this projector regardless of if I had BC on or off. However, based upon all of the other test patterns that I checked, it seems that my whites seem fine (when BC is turned off), so I am not sure what this means, but it doesn't seem to be a big problem or anything. It still kind of bugs me psychologically, but I really do not notice any issues in my movie watching or the other test patterns, so I think I am making a big deal out of nothing.....I will not bother you any more with discussion of this topic.

I am still extremely pleased with my purchase.

Have a fantastic day!
Jim
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post #1625 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 08:24 AM - Thread Starter
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@Curtard
Even though the RS-45 is the lesser model, it still should have enough contrast to get pretty close to the RS-35 on blacks in most scenes, and it actually might be a tiny bit brighter. The RS-35 might be a little sharper, but hoping JVC improved the optics again. JVC has a tendency to get a little sharper on every new generation, but the sharpest of sharp is reserved for their top-end line (they hand-pick the best convergence and panels presumably).

Even though the RS-45 has the pixel-shift convergence correction, part of the sharpness will be luck as always is with LCOS and LCD projectors. It will be interesting for me to see if this RS-45 can match or even slightly beat the sharpness of a Sanyo z4000 (the sharpest RECENT LCD on average other than a couple Mits LCD's).

@Bishopt
As far as calibration goes, things are backwards in projectors, it's very odd, but as you get more and more expensive, you often get more flaky calibration systems. I'm not sure why. I have not liked the calibration controls on Sony, and although I've never tried JVC's calibrations, I've heard they aren't the best either. It's not just JVC or Sony that has this issue, even though the Mits hc4000 calibrates easily and perfectly, the Mits hc9000d ($4000+ PJ) had a few calibration issues that are supposedly worked out in the new version. As far as the CMS goes, I'm not worried about the JVC not having a CMS, since that is just to adjust the color space, JVC comes with a REC 709 mode that has a real-near D65 color space already, and you can still adjust the gray-scale and gamma and other stuff. Although it can be annoying as the lamp ages unevenly, but we'll see. I can always grab a used external CMS if I wish, or maybe I'll just program one.


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post #1626 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinCitiesJim View Post

I did play around for a little while this weekend with my setup, and I have partial resolution to my problem. I actually had two issues with my white levels that I had been troubleshooting and I thought they were the same thing. The non-smooth gradation in whites issue that I saw was actually from turning brilliant Color on. When I turn it off, it goes back to smooth on those test patterns. I feel stupid now that remembered things incorrectly.

Snip...

I am still extremely pleased with my purchase.

Have a fantastic day!
Jim

That would explain it, that is what I have seen in the past with BC on, I never use it at all now...

War Eagle!!!
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post #1627 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 12:10 PM
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ordered the mits today, excited for it to arrive. i'm upgrading from a benq6200 that served me well for 8 years until it just stopped working a week ago.

so, it should be quite the upgrade
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post #1628 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Snifter View Post

ordered the mits today, excited for it to arrive. i'm upgrading from a benq6200 that served me well for 8 years until it just stopped working a week ago.

so, it should be quite the upgrade



Congrats and welcome to the Mits thread...Yeah I think you will be blown away, come back and let us know your intial impressions...

War Eagle!!!
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post #1629 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

@Curtard
Even though the RS-45 is the lesser model, it still should have enough contrast to get pretty close to the RS-35 on blacks in most scenes, and it actually might be a tiny bit brighter. The RS-35 might be a little sharper, but hoping JVC improved the optics again. JVC has a tendency to get a little sharper on every new generation, but the sharpest of sharp is reserved for their top-end line (they hand-pick the best convergence and panels presumably).

Even though the RS-45 has the pixel-shift convergence correction, part of the sharpness will be luck as always is with LCOS and LCD projectors. It will be interesting for me to see if this RS-45 can match or even slightly beat the sharpness of a Sanyo z4000 (the sharpest RECENT LCD on average other than a couple Mits LCD's).

@Bishopt
As far as calibration goes, things are backwards in projectors, it's very odd, but as you get more and more expensive, you often get more flaky calibration systems. I'm not sure why. I have not liked the calibration controls on Sony, and although I've never tried JVC's calibrations, I've heard they aren't the best either. It's not just JVC or Sony that has this issue, even though the Mits hc4000 calibrates easily and perfectly, the Mits hc9000d ($4000+ PJ) had a few calibration issues that are supposedly worked out in the new version. As far as the CMS goes, I'm not worried about the JVC not having a CMS, since that is just to adjust the color space, JVC comes with a REC 709 mode that has a real-near D65 color space already, and you can still adjust the gray-scale and gamma and other stuff. Although it can be annoying as the lamp ages unevenly, but we'll see. I can always grab a used external CMS if I wish, or maybe I'll just program one.

Calibration options seemed adequate in the RS35 from what I remember. To me it appeared noticeably sharper than the Mits although that could be an effect of the greater contrast.
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post #1630 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, the calibration controls were adequate in the RS-35, but in the RS-50/Rs-60 the CMS side of the calibration did not work correctly as it contributed to a too large of a drop-off in brightness (with already questionable lamp quality). An RS-35 should not be sharper than the Mits, should be at best maybe almost the same, although my guess is that the Mits will remain slightly sharper.


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post #1631 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Yes, the calibration controls were adequate in the RS-35, but in the RS-50/Rs-60 the CMS side of the calibration did not work correctly as it contributed to a too large of a drop-off in brightness (with already questionable lamp quality). An RS-35 should not be sharper than the Mits, should be at best maybe almost the same, although my guess is that the Mits will remain slightly sharper.

I would tend to agree with single chip DLP, not sure how anything could be sharper, but I guess optices due come into play etc..but three chip anything I think would be less sharp....

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post #1632 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 05:47 PM - Thread Starter
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I guess at the corners the RS-35 probably has better focus uniformity potentially, but at the center-focus point most single-chip DLP's should be sharper than almost any LCOS projector, regardless of how expensive that LCOS is.


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post #1633 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 06:58 PM
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What to do, What to do, What to do...

I have never considered DLP because of the lack of ease of setting up. My 8' ceiling theater room making it the hardest obstacle but I only have a 92" screen. This HC4000 will work for me and am itching to try DLP. I wish the HC7800 was out. The wait on the specs and reviews are absolutely killing me right now. I am also on the pre-interest list for the JVC because the price was just too hard to pass up and have always wanted to see a PJ with inky blacks.

I just don't know what to do.

Questions:

1) Knowing the JVC will have the best blacks how does it fair as far as shadow detail? It would bother me if I couldn't see detail even tho the blacks are inky.
2) How does the HC4000 fair with black level/shadow detail? Would the black level/shadow detail be better than my current Sanyo Z2000?
3) Should I hold off and wait and see what the HC7800 will be since it has a dynamic iris?

The HC4000 is so cheap, I guess I should just get it and find out myself. Same goes for the RS45. The JVC worries more tho because of the lamp issues and the motion. 3D is of really no concern for me right now even tho I know the HC7800 would prolly be the best.
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post #1634 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I'd say the Sanyo z2000 will have very slightly better blacks in dark scenes where the IRIS is kicking in, but overall in some more slightly mixed scenes I think the Mits hc4000 will look better. I don't think the black-level difference between these two projectors is huge, but it certainly is going to favor an LCD with an IRIS. In bright scenes, the Mits hc4000 will run over the Sanyo easily. The z4000 almost kept up with the Mits in some ways, but the Mits still beat it, so a z2000 is a step back from the z4000, so the Mits should have a substantial lead over a z2000.

I've seen cheap projectors, expensive ones, and everything in-between, and the image the Mits produces looks like a much more expensive projector than it really is.

Regarding the hc4000's black level:
I am hoping getting the RS-45 satisfies my curiosity in the fact that if I can start enjoying certain movies more that have darker scenes, then the loss in the bright scene POP might be acceptable to me, especially since I expect the JVC RS-45 to have really rich and vivid colors.

It is going to end up a personal choice, several people have gone from DLP to JVC's and have not been bothered, but I'd say 1/4 to half of people are anywhere between slightly bothered and really bothered by leaving DLP for LCOS.

My biggest concern about the JVC isn't bright scene POP, it's actually lamp quality eating my wallet alive. My eyes can adjust to the different levels of sharpness usually, but we'll see if the JVC is sharp enough for me, I suppose it will be.

I think it's going to be a hard decision for me to keep the JVC vs. trading it in for a Mits hc7800, but we'll see how much I like the RS-45 first.


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post #1635 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I'd say the Sanyo z2000 will have very slightly better blacks in dark scenes where the IRIS is kicking in, but overall in some more slightly mixed scenes I think the Mits hc4000 will look better. I don't think the black-level difference between these two projectors is huge, but it certainly is going to favor an LCD with an IRIS. In bright scenes, the Mits hc4000 will run over the Sanyo easily. The z4000 almost kept up with the Mits in some ways, but the Mits still beat it, so a z2000 is a step back from the z4000, so the Mits should have a substantial lead over a z2000.

I've seen cheap projectors, expensive ones, and everything in-between, and the image the Mits produces looks like a much more expensive projector than it really is.

Regarding the hc4000's black level:
I am hoping getting the RS-45 satisfies my curiosity in the fact that if I can start enjoying certain movies more that have darker scenes, then the loss in the bright scene POP might be acceptable to me, especially since I expect the JVC RS-45 to have really rich and vivid colors.

It is going to end up a personal choice, several people have gone from DLP to JVC's and have not been bothered, but I'd say 1/4 to half of people are anywhere between slightly bothered and really bothered by leaving DLP for LCOS.

My biggest concern about the JVC isn't bright scene POP, it's actually lamp quality eating my wallet alive. My eyes can adjust to the different levels of sharpness usually, but we'll see if the JVC is sharp enough for me, I suppose it will be.

I think it's going to be a hard decision for me to keep the JVC vs. trading it in for a Mits hc7800, but we'll see how much I like the RS-45 first.

Thanks for your input. Can you touch on shadow detail between these projectors? Being able to see detail will be more important to me. However, I don't want to see detail if its 'muddy' looking.
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post #1636 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Shadow detail is a tricky thing, and people often get into arguments when I mention it (Although this thread people don't argue as much anymore, strangely enough). I think this thread is calmer now because all of us in here pretty much agree, that the hc4000 produces a stupidly amazing image for the price.

That said, shadow detail is mainly a combination of NATIVE contrast and gamma. The other potential issues affecting shadow detail are the processing algorithms (image noise reduction, banding, etc...). That can either detract, add to, or ruin shadow detail in dark scenes (or turn it into blobs). I would argue that even though DLP produces less gradiated ranges in the darkest of dark scenes, it still produces a slightly cleaner scene than some LCOS, but the LCOS will still cream it in dark scenes, there is just no way of getting around that.

Given the JVC RS-45 has much higher native contrast, after you calibrate the GAMMA the dark scenes should look better across the board, this includes shadow detail. That doesn't necessarily mean in most scenes you will SEE MORE DETAIL than a Mits hc4000, what it really means is that the detail will in essence appear more vibrant and delineated, so our brain registers it better. The detail will be less clumped together compared to a projector with less native contrast.

There is no question that if dark scenes is your end-game, the JVC is worth a try-out, but I do worry about the lamp issues. I mean I can put 3000 hours on a projector in one year because I leave it on while on my computer (I work from home half the time in my job), so I can really burn lamps fast. That could cost me $2,000+ per year if these lamps start failing too often. After 3 years, I could have bought a $5,000 projector using different lamps, so that is a bit odd.

That assumes the JVC still has the lamp reliability problems, no-one knows just yet, but it does worry me severely.


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post #1637 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

I would tend to agree with single chip DLP, not sure how anything could be sharper, but I guess optices due come into play etc..but three chip anything I think would be less sharp....

Yeah, like I said, it was probably a contrast thing. I didn't compare Windows desktops or anything like that. But watching the same movies through the same HTPC on the same size screen, the picture on the RS35 looked significantly sharper than on my Mits. Sharpness settings on both were at nominal/off.
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post #1638 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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The RS-35 probably comes close enough in sharpness to make the contrast advantage make it seem a lot sharper in movies in certain scenes anyhow.

That wouldn't surprise me. One issue though is you might be watching your Mits with a sub-10 fL image, and although that isn't a huge issue if the room is super-dark, too dark of an image can affect the way we perceive contrast in some scenes. It's actually a trade off though, a darker image can appear to have better blacks to a degree, but then the brighter scenes can be lacking punch as well, and this can make things appear not to be as sharp as they really are.


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post #1639 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 08:33 PM
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Thanks for all of your informative posts. Coderguy has me sold on the HC-4000.

If I mount the HC-4000 15 feet away from a 110 inch screen, How many inches will I able to raise my picture using one keysone?
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post #1640 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigm View Post

Thanks for your input. Can you touch on shadow detail between these projectors? Being able to see detail will be more important to me. However, I don't want to see detail if its 'muddy' looking.

So I'm going to chime in hear with a few comments...So, depends on what you like to watch and what things bother/bug you...My main viewing habits are movies and sports..one of the main weakness is blacks since it has no iris, but then that can be an advantage to some since a poor iris can/may bug you. Don't get me wrong there are movies/scenes that I notice the the lack of deep black, harry potter comes to mind..but most of the time its with movies that are shot flat to begin with. For most movies it may be a scene here or their but not the whole movie. I paired mine up with a light grey sceen to help even more. I really, really don't like motion issues and watching sports that is one thing that bugs me, DLP does motion really well and watching sports is a great. So for me it was a no brainer, for the price point it has the best picture that you can get, IMHO. Then again I will never go LCD, LCOS might be a keeper, but the motion issues still would worry me and I would have to watch some. if I had the means I'd probably settle on the Infocus sp8602 or the new mits 7800 but both are out of my price range...


So to sum up for most movies/viewing it has a lot going for it at 1K, ahh one more thing, skin tones,it just nails them also...

War Eagle!!!
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post #1641 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rasmussen79 View Post

Thanks for all of your informative posts. Coderguy has me sold on the HC-4000.

If I mount the HC-4000 15 feet away from a 110 inch screen, How many inches will I able to raise my picture using one keysone?

and the key question will be.....how high are your ceilings...? The mits calculator listed on the first page at the bottom of the specs, will allow you to enter in all of the information to get all those deminsions...

War Eagle!!!
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post #1642 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

So I'm going to chime in hear with a few comments...So, depends on what you like to watch and what things bother/bug you...My main viewing habits are movies and sports..one of the main weakness is blacks since it has no iris, but then that can be an advantage to some since a poor iris can/may bug you. Don't get me wrong there are movies/scenes that I notice the the lack of deep black, harry potter comes to mind..but most of the time its with movies that are shot flat to begin with. For most movies it may be a scene here or their but not the whole movie. I paired mine up with a light grey sceen to help even more. I really, really don't like motion issues and watching sports that is one thing that bugs me, DLP does motion really well and watching sports is a great. So for me it was a no brainer, for the price point it has the best picture that you can get, IMHO. Then again I will never go LCD, LCOS might be a keeper, but the motion issues still would worry me and I would have to watch some. if I had the means I'd probably settle on the Infocus sp8602 or the new mits 7800 but both are out of my price range...


So to sum up for most movies/viewing it has a lot going for it at 1K, ahh one more thing, skin tones,it just nails them also...

Yeah, seems every projector out there less than $5k has some kind of trade off from one to another. The thing that makes buying a projector so damn hard is that we can't just go to your local electronic chain and check them out and do comparisons. It would be so much easier that way to narrow down what bothers me most.

I primarily watch movies 90 percent of the time as I have a dedicated bat cave. I'm in need of a new bulb ($300) for my current PJ. If I take that money minus the HC4000 I get a new PJ for easily less than $1k. That is making me think real hard. Also, with the money I save by not buying the HC7800 (or RS45), I could go with a Carada Masking system plus the HC4000. That masking system has piqued my interest for a long, long time. I have a manual way of doing it now with my LCD because of lens shift, but If I go the DLP route I won't be able to achieve that anymore.
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post #1643 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by paradigm View Post

Also, with the money I save by not buying the HC7800 (or RS45), I could go with a Carada Masking system plus the HC4000. That masking system has piqued my interest for a long, long time. I have a manual way of doing it now with my LCD because of lens shift, but If I go the DLP route I won't be able to achieve that anymore.

Please elaborate a little more on how you do your masking with lens shift? 'cos while the HC4000 doesn't have a true optical lens shift, you can digitally shift the image within the 16:9 box.

So if you are say, lens shifting a 2.35 image to the top or bottom of the 16:9 box, then only masking the very top (or very bottom) of the screen, you can do the exact same thing with the HC4000 but with just the remote! And you can save that shift to one of the 3 AV memory buttons on the remote, so it can be just a 1 button push.
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post #1644 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 09:51 PM
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fleaman-

I do exactly what you mention. I shift the 2:35 image to the top of the screen and then put a panel that is covered in black material at the bottom.

Your saying I can achieve the same thing with keystone? Thats great then! Thanks for that info!!

This leads me scratching my head then with the whole offset ordeal with DLP. Why am I worried about offset if I can move the image as you say with keystone? My current screen will need to be moved down 2inches to accommodate the offset. With the keystone I wouldn't have to do so? However, if I want to eliminate the bars I'll need the screen in perfect position on the wall I take it.
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post #1645 of 2858 Old 10-17-2011, 11:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Keystone distorts the image and you lose actual pixel resolution, a few clicks isn't a huge deal (say 2-4), but even at 4 clicks you can see it a little with text mostly, so that is why.
You can get away with a little, but not too much.


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post #1646 of 2858 Old 10-18-2011, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by paradigm View Post

fleaman-

I do exactly what you mention. I shift the 2:35 image to the top of the screen and then put a panel that is covered in black material at the bottom.

Yes you can do that exactly with digital shifting, but it is NOT keystone.

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Originally Posted by paradigm View Post

This leads me scratching my head then with the whole offset ordeal with DLP. Why am I worried about offset if I can move the image as you say with keystone? My current screen will need to be moved down 2inches to accommodate the offset. With the keystone I wouldn't have to do so? However, if I want to eliminate the bars I'll need the screen in perfect position on the wall I take it.

Here's the deal: You can NOT shift the 16:9 image up/down with the digital image shift. Well, actually you can, but you will crop the 16:9 image as soon as you start clicking in the digital image shift. All you are doing (with the HC4000) is digitally shifting the image WITHIN the 16:9 box. So, you can not move the 16:9 box, but you can shift the image within that box. So, with a 2.35 image you can of course shift it up or down w/o cropping, but you can't do that with a 16:9 image (w/o cropping).

That is the reason I asked about your masking method. I figured you were doing something like you said. You can do the same thing with masking a 2.35 movie (on a 16:9 screen) by shifting the 2.35 image to the top of the 16:9 screen and masking only the bottom. This in effect gives you less offset with a 2.35 image than if you did no shifting at all, but with a 16:9 image you won't be able to change the offset, unless you crop the top or bottom of the 16:9 image.

Now you can still of course use keystone if you have to move your screen down and tilt the PJ a little. At only 2" you might only need 1 click of keystone.
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post #1647 of 2858 Old 10-18-2011, 06:57 PM
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Thanks for all of your informative posts. Coderguy has me sold on the HC-4000.

If I mount the HC-4000 15 feet away from a 110 inch screen, How many inches will I able to raise my picture using one keysone?

I'm confused if this calculator will tell you how many keystones it takes to rasie the picture 4 inches. Infact, I don't say anything labeled "keystone" anywhere on the calculator.
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post #1648 of 2858 Old 10-18-2011, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rasmussen79 View Post

I'm confused if this calculator will tell you how many keystones it takes to rasie the picture 4 inches. Infact, I don't say anything labeled "keystone" anywhere on the calculator.

There is no keystone calculation on the calculator.

Suffice to say, you can tilt the PJ so that the top of the image is above the lens center (when ceiling mounted), and use the keystone adjustment to make the image square again. But that would be a lot of keystone.

4" is a small amount to correct for most screen sizes, perhaps 1-2 clicks of keystone or so would be my guess.
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post #1649 of 2858 Old 10-18-2011, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rasmussen79 View Post

I'm confused if this calculator will tell you how many keystones it takes to rasie the picture 4 inches. Infact, I don't say anything labeled "keystone" anywhere on the calculator.

How high is your ceiling?

HC4000 really needs at least an 8' ceiling.

It is preferable to avoid using keystone.
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post #1650 of 2858 Old 10-18-2011, 07:33 PM
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All right, now I'm starting to understand. My ceiling is only 90 inches tall. The offset on this projector is 18 inches. My poorly framed question is -- Will the keystone allow me to rasie the image on my wall. It sounds like the answer is no. Instead, I would have to tilt the projector up ( I want my picture to go up 10 inches closer to the ceiling). Then I would use the keystone function that will make my picture more clear after the tilted mount.

Is that how the keystone works?
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