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post #2071 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't think there is a single 3D DLP projector that is going to have higher NATIVE contrast than the Mits hc4000 this year. Maybe the Benq w7000, but I'm not hopeful. These manufacturers are going backwards just to add brightness for 3D, they need to fix the darn light paths and stop opening them up to cheat on brightness which washes out the contrast.

DLP needs some new blood in the game, we need some projectors that start out with higher contrast and have a good IRIS. Apparently there is no profit in DLP anymore for the MFR's on the high-end, everyone goes LCOS. DLP is superior to LCOS if they made it have 8000:1 Native and put a Sony-like IRIS on it with a 6x cw, that would be the best consumer level projector ever made. The technology is already there, they can do it and sell it for $3500, but I guess no profit in it and the lamps with would be high wattage but the projector would be around 700 lumens best mode or so, and most people want light cannons I guess.


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post #2072 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

It is a shame that in the DLP business they are not making contrast higher, it is possible to do, Sharp has done it before and made a DLP with 8000:1 native with the IRIS closed, .

Problem with those impressive Sharp contrast #'s is that the lumens with the Iris closed are VERY low, like maybe 250-350 lumens range at best, and that is with a new lamp

'course once you start opening the manual iris for more lumens, you lose your high native contrast numbers.

The reason for the high native contrast numbers was due to the closed iris blocking a lot of the scattered light (which ruins contrast perf.). Problem is it kills your lumens. Mits found a happy medium with their fixed aperture, though I'd still like to have the option of a adjustable manual iris to make it easier to adjust to different screen sizes and gains (I wouldn't have bought a 77" .8 gain screen, I would have just adjusted the iris!).
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post #2073 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 01:57 PM
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Just thought id share my thoughts on my HC4000 that I have had for about 4 weeks now. I have had quite a few projectors but my last one was an HD550 (RS15) so ill compare it to that.

For the money this projector is unbeatable. The Picture is better than the HD550 in every way, especially colour. The Blacks arent as black, but the detail in the dark scenes is better so its not an issue for me. In fact I was expecting the blacks to be worse than they are but its actually not bad, and better than most commercial cinemas. Space scenes look great on the HC4000, better than I expected.

Sharpness is noticeably better than the HD550, and the picture is more contrasty despite being rated at 10% of the JVC. Im quite happy to give up the better black level of the JVC for all the advantages of the HC4000.
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post #2074 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by gbickle View Post

For the money this projector is unbeatable. The Picture is better than the HD550 in every way, especially colour. The Blacks arent as black, but the detail in the dark scenes is better so its not an issue for me..

I'm a shadow detail freak so this is something that is dear to me. The JVC's aren't known for 'excellent' shadow detail, but the Mits' HC3800/4000 are. The JVC's have 'good' shadow detail, but it's nice to hear first hand from someone who's owned both.

Yeah the JVC's have a better black level, but I've always wondered about the cost to shadow detail (crushing blacks).

If you want even more shadow detail on the HC4000, try this (may not work for you, but does for me)> Try the sports gamma, re-adjust brightness and contrast (to a test screen, etc.). If you like this you can try fine tuning the gamma beyond the sports gamma preset. I've found I can get more shadow detail and therefor more punch in the low light level scenes than just sticking with the cinema (or is it film?) gamma preset.
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post #2075 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by gbickle View Post

Just thought id share my thoughts on my HC4000 that I have had for about 4 weeks now. I have had quite a few projectors but my last one was an HD550 (RS15) so ill compare it to that.

For the money this projector is unbeatable. The Picture is better than the HD550 in every way, especially colour. The Blacks arent as black, but the detail in the dark scenes is better so its not an issue for me. In fact I was expecting the blacks to be worse than they are but its actually not bad, and better than most commercial cinemas. Space scenes look great on the HC4000, better than I expected.

Sharpness is noticeably better than the HD550, and the picture is more contrasty despite being rated at 10% of the JVC. Im quite happy to give up the better black level of the JVC for all the advantages of the HC4000.

Great write up...Congrats and welcome to the mits thread ....it's more difficult than other non dlp projectors to setup do to fixed lens shift etc, but out of the box it tracks 6500 really close and for most material just looks great...

What kind of screen and size are you watching this on...looking at options for the future and was just wondering what you are throwing it up on..

War Eagle!!!
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post #2076 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

Problem with those impressive Sharp contrast #'s is that the lumens with the Iris closed are VERY low, like maybe 250-350 lumens range at best, and that is with a new lamp

'course once you start opening the manual iris for more lumens, you lose your high native contrast numbers.

The reason for the high native contrast numbers was due to the closed iris blocking a lot of the scattered light (which ruins contrast perf.). Problem is it kills your lumens. Mits found a happy medium with their fixed aperture, though I'd still like to have the option of a adjustable manual iris to make it easier to adjust to different screen sizes and gains (I wouldn't have bought a 77" .8 gain screen, I would have just adjusted the iris!).

Yah, but for me I'll take the 300-500 lumens with higher contrast, I use a 2.0 gain Hp screen, that becomes 600-1000 equivalent after fL translations.

It is the light path overall for sure, the IRIS + light path in general, but even if you opened up the SHARP's IRIS to deliver a litte more lumens say around 350 to 500, I'm thinking it was still pretty high in native contrast.

I would be perfectly happy even if I could get 6000:1 with 400 lumens, plus they've gotten better at the tricks of making projectors brighter now, they've put more R&D into it because of 3D. Only problem is they are taking it to the extreme and not using the R&D properly, they are using the maximum approach to increase brightness for 3D instead of just bumping the best modes up a bit.


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post #2077 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 03:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

I'm a shadow detail freak so this is something that is dear to me. The JVC's aren't known for 'excellent' shadow detail, but the Mits' HC3800/4000 are. The JVC's have 'good' shadow detail, but it's nice to hear first hand from someone who's owned both.

Yeah the JVC's have a better black level, but I've always wondered about the cost to shadow detail (crushing blacks).

A projector with higher native contrast has better shadow detail if the calibrations are equal. As you might be aware, shadow detail is a function of gamma as related to native contrast. The only other thing that can affect shadow detail is the processing, a cleaner processing projector like the Mits has some potential in certain scenes to be cleaner and have better shadow detail, but it's not likely. Noise reduction, processing issues like banding, and even sharpness can affect it a tiny bit, but in todays projectors much less than the old days, most of this stuff no longer applies, so we are only left with Higher Native and Higher Shadow Detail. You can make the GAMMA higher on any JVC to get better shadow detail, it is the reviewers not calibrating things correctly that are causing these things to occur.

Beyond calibration, projectors no longer have real variances in shadow detail at a given rate of Native Contrast and Gamma Calibration, it is very rare. The JVC ships by default with a GAMMA a bit darkened out on the low-end in order to emphasize those darker blacks.

Long story short, the JVC will beat a Mits hc4000 for shadow detail in a proper calibration.

@JVC vs. Mits comment

I agree the Mits can hang in many areas with a JVC HD250/350/550, especially one with just average convergence. The newer JVC's are more promsing, they are generally quite a bit sharper and quite a bit brighter. Although I am playing some Russian Roulette here with convergence. I have played the convergence game at least 6 times now with other projectors (mostly LCD and one LCOS), and I have won only once (and even then it wasn't a perfect win).

I am hoping I can get lucky this time (I deserve it), and get a JVC RS-45 with near perfect convergence.
I am pretty confident that I will prefer the RS-45 over the Mits hc4000 for movies if the convergence is good enough.


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post #2078 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Yah, but for me I'll take the 300-500 lumens with higher contrast, I use a 2.0 gain Hp screen, that becomes 600-1000 equivalent after fL translations.

It's something like 300 lumens at best, w/new lamp (fwir)

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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

It is the light path overall for sure, the IRIS + light path in general, but even if you opened up the SHARP's IRIS to deliver a litte more lumens say around 350 to 500, I'm thinking it was still pretty high in native contrast.

Sure, probably still beating the HC4000 in native contrast, the question is brightness. Once you open the iris enough to match the HC4000 lumens, will the Sharp's native on/off still beat the HC4000 by enough to matter (notice)??

As an example, I had written down some test measures (from pro reviews)>>

Sharp XV-Z20000 DLP (DC3) 9,117:1 man iris closed, dim but 'watchable' (remember that what was 'dim' when this PJ came out would be considered unwatchable today),
1,933:1 man. iris open. (don't remember the lumens rating, but I think it might of been in the 600 lumens range in low lamp mode?)
Ansi 606:1 (unknown iris setting).

And

Benq PE8720 DC3 720p DLP (ultimateAV), 3161:1 man iris closed (but very dim, only 6fL off screen), 1228:1 iris open (20fL off screen), 2170:1 iris @ medium lamp high (15fL off screen)
Unfortunately I didn't write down the screen size/gain, but it gives you an idea of the manual iris/lumens/contrast dilemma.

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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I would be perfectly happy even if I could get 6000:1 with 400 lumens, plus they've gotten better at the tricks of making projectors brighter now, they've put more R&D into it because of 3D. Only problem is they are taking it to the extreme and not using the R&D properly, they are using the maximum approach to increase brightness for 3D instead of just bumping the best modes up a bit.

I don't think there's secret tricks to getting more lumens. Of course higher watt lamps are one way, but with DLP's it's how they do the color wheel (how fast, how many segments, etc.), and of course the aperture or iris.
If you notice with DLP's, the native contrast hasn't really gotten better, the black levels haven't gotten better (if anything, worse), but they have gotten brighter (explaining the worse black levels).

I think you coulda probably eeked out 6000:1 @ 400 lumens from an older Sharp, though 5000:1 would probably be more likely. Again, on a new lamp, etc.
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post #2079 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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There are actually several tricks to increasing brightness.

The first trick they use is filters, new filters have been designed that do a corrective adjustment to coincide with the calibration options to allow less light loss while attempting to get closer to a D65 and Rec709 in even a Dynamic mode. Epson has done this with one version of their Epson 5010.

They also can attempt to make sure that any color BIAS is appropriately directed in the right general manner as related to the lamp wearing evenly, as well as how the calibration controls affect the brightness (being more diligent on ensuring QC in the projector's calibration software is a good start for maintaining more brightness).

There have been some modifications to the color wheels for 3D.

Yet another thing they do is widen the light path and change the way the projector light scatter works probably mostly related to the aperture size and what not, but this is beyond my area of expertise, all I know is that many of these newer DLP's have dropped down in native contrast, sometimes a higher wattage lamp may be the culprit, but it's also related to internal light scatter, wherever that is occurring.


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post #2080 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

There are actually several tricks to increasing brightness.

The first trick they use is filters, new filters have been designed that do a corrective adjustment to coincide with the calibration options to allow less light loss while attempting to get closer to a D65 and Rec709 in even a Dynamic mode. Epson has done this with one version of their Epson 5010.

That's why I kept it to 'DLPs' (mentioned in my post), since that is the tech we're talking about>>>

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Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

I don't think there's secret tricks to getting more lumens. Of course higher watt lamps are one way, but with DLP's it's how they do the color wheel (how fast, how many segments, etc.), and of course the aperture or iris.


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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

There have been some modifications to the color wheels for 3D.

And as I mentioned, yes there are a few things you can do with color wheels to increase lumens, from slowing the refresh rate down, to segment sizes, etc. But again, this is no free lunch. It doesn't increase your contrast and as lumens increas, you're black levels will increase also unless you increase contrast performance by other means (DC4 chip, DI, etc.)

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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Yet another thing they do is widen the light path and change the way the projector light scatter works probably mostly related to the aperture size and what not, but this is beyond my area of expertise, all I know is that many of these newer DLP's have dropped down in native contrast, sometimes a higher wattage lamp may be the culprit, but it's also related to internal light scatter, wherever that is occurring.

Well, the simple answer is that they haven't really increased the lamp wattages that much, so the logical/likely culprit is an increased aperture size (for fixed ones like the HC4000/HC3800), and/or a less aggressive manual iris (one that doesn't close down as much in it's lowest position).

If you could put a smaller aperture in the HC4000, you'd likely increase native contrast perf and black level at the expense of lumens. Larger aperture would be the opposite.

No secret really...
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post #2081 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 05:23 PM
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My guess is that if you could put Sharp's manual iris into the HC4000 and stop it down as much as in the older Sharp units, you'd probably get native contrast #'s close to that of the Sharp's....
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post #2082 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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No secrets persay, but some of this stuff is new I think. The filters, the color wheel designs, CMS re-programming to be more precise to the lamp, etc...
There are also potentially more things they did I have no idea about as I do not do this stuff for a living, that was just the few things that came to mind.

I was debating on taking the Viewsonic apart to see if I can learn to modify anything just to learn how this stuff works more, but then again 90% chance I'd break the thing

Just wanted to mess around in the light path near the lamp, wanted to disassemble it.


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post #2083 of 2858 Old 11-28-2011, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

No secrets persay, but some of this stuff is new I think. The filters, the color wheel designs, CMS re-programming to be more precise to the lamp, etc...

There has definitely been advances with LCD's/filters, etc., but DLP's don't have filters, other than the color wheel

AFAIK, there hasn't been anything new in CW tech that increases contrast
As mentioned, they can do lots of things with brightness/lumens, saturation, etc., but I'm not aware of anything new that increases contrast with color wheel design.

dunno what you mean by 'CMS' re-programming? Haven't heard anything about that increasing native contrast? Have any links?
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post #2084 of 2858 Old 11-29-2011, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

A projector with higher native contrast has better shadow detail if the calibrations are equal. As you might be aware, shadow detail is a function of gamma as related to native contrast. The only other thing that can affect shadow detail is the processing, a cleaner processing projector like the Mits has some potential in certain scenes to be cleaner and have better shadow detail, but it's not likely. Noise reduction, processing issues like banding, and even sharpness can affect it a tiny bit, but in todays projectors much less than the old days, most of this stuff no longer applies, so we are only left with Higher Native and Higher Shadow Detail. You can make the GAMMA higher on any JVC to get better shadow detail, it is the reviewers not calibrating things correctly that are causing these things to occur.

Beyond calibration, projectors no longer have real variances in shadow detail at a given rate of Native Contrast and Gamma Calibration, it is very rare. The JVC ships by default with a GAMMA a bit darkened out on the low-end in order to emphasize those darker blacks.

Long story short, the JVC will beat a Mits hc4000 for shadow detail in a proper calibration.

@JVC vs. Mits comment

I agree the Mits can hang in many areas with a JVC HD250/350/550, especially one with just average convergence. The newer JVC's are more promsing, they are generally quite a bit sharper and quite a bit brighter. Although I am playing some Russian Roulette here with convergence. I have played the convergence game at least 6 times now with other projectors (mostly LCD and one LCOS), and I have won only once (and even then it wasn't a perfect win).

I am hoping I can get lucky this time (I deserve it), and get a JVC RS-45 with near perfect convergence.
I am pretty confident that I will prefer the RS-45 over the Mits hc4000 for movies if the convergence is good enough.

Agreed...

Without calibration the HD550 colours just didnt look right ... HC4000 I am very happy with on default settings.. just had to dial the red back a bit. I was actually planning on just using this HC4000 as a stop gap until I bought on of the new JVC's, but I might stick with it a bit longer as im not that worried about 3D yet. The fake 4k upscaling seems interesting though.. tempting.. hmmm
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post #2085 of 2858 Old 11-29-2011, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

A projector with higher native contrast has better shadow detail if the calibrations are equal. As you might be aware, shadow detail is a function of gamma as related to native contrast. The only other thing that can affect shadow detail is the processing, a cleaner processing projector like the Mits has some potential in certain scenes to be cleaner and have better shadow detail, but it's not likely. Noise reduction, processing issues like banding, and even sharpness can affect it a tiny bit, but in todays projectors much less than the old days, most of this stuff no longer applies, so we are only left with Higher Native and Higher Shadow Detail. You can make the GAMMA higher on any JVC to get better shadow detail, it is the reviewers not calibrating things correctly that are causing these things to occur.

Beyond calibration, projectors no longer have real variances in shadow detail at a given rate of Native Contrast and Gamma Calibration, it is very rare. The JVC ships by default with a GAMMA a bit darkened out on the low-end in order to emphasize those darker blacks.

Long story short, the JVC will beat a Mits hc4000 for shadow detail in a proper calibration.

Yes I think another reason why a lot of reviews that have projectors with bad black levels having good shadow detail is purely because the blacks are lighter. So with a JVC it is more important to have blacked out walls and ceiling because any reflections will have are more negative impact on the darker blacks...
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post #2086 of 2858 Old 11-29-2011, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by fleaman View Post


dunno what you mean by 'CMS' re-programming? Haven't heard anything about that increasing native contrast? Have any links?

Yah, not contrast so much, but brightness and contrast. If you are able to increase brightness without a reduction in contrast, in essence you just increased contrast (because the brighter you start with more contrast, the more people will be able to use a higher contrast mode because it was brighter).

I should say the grayscale/gamma and CMS. Many projectors have issues with the calibration tools...
The Mits hc3800/hc4000 has an exceptional calibration system, but this is not the norm across most projectors, with many projectors you really need a video processor to calibrate it correctly.

The above is one reason I go around the forum trying to steer new people that are not paying for a pro-calibration to the hc4000 over other projectors, it is often an overlooked attribute, but it's near impossible to beat the OTB calibration of the Mits hc4000 anywhere near this price. For someone calibrating a first projector, the Mits is much easier than most. Even though the actual color temp is off a little, the color gamut overall is very good, and the gamma is often flat and near 2.2 OTB, and the inaccuracies that do exist in the OTB calibration of the Mits hc4000's I've seen are not too bad, hence other than a few Sony's (which are hand calibrated before shipping), the Mits probably has the best OTB color under $3000. The gamut on the Mits does go out a bit on yellow/green I think if I remember correctly, but overall the OTB calibration these things ship with are usually far better than most projectors, especially anything in this price range.

The Benq w1100/w1200 calibrate very well too, but OTB they are way off.


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post #2087 of 2858 Old 11-29-2011, 04:07 PM
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Yeah, I had to learn about calibrations when I got my first PJ, Optoma H30, then H31. I went through a few H30's (early units had a buzzing issue), and 1 H31, they were all Horrible OTB. You HAD to calibrate them, they were almost unwatchable OTB. In fact, I was a little disappointed with them on the first fire up. I wasn't a video file nerd so I wasn't happy about the time involved in learning calibration stuff, and the endless trial and error (tweaking, tinkering, etc.). But I guess I have to hand it to Optoma, I wouldn't have learned unless those PJ's sucked OTB

I went through maybe 3-4 HC3800's (had early shutdown issues), and ALL of them were very good OTB (they all pretty much matched each other).
If the Mits was my first PJ, I would never have had the need to learn about calibrations, though my experience with my early Optoma's gave me some skill to tweak my HC3800 so that it shines pretty nice, even though Mits's OTB calibration is is about as good as you can get with with any PJ out there...
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post #2088 of 2858 Old 11-29-2011, 04:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm far from an expert calibrator, but I'm still learning. The Sanyo z4000 was the hardest out of the 10 or so projectors I've calibrated, it was very tricky because none of the controls worked independently really, change one thing and it affects another, but after lots of trial and error I could calibrate one now in about 2 hours pretty much perfectly. I assume the difference between someone like me and an expert calibrator is that they can do things much faster for one, and the second thing is they can also estimate certain things that need to be changed and not take readings as often as I have to. They also have better equipment and better understand what concessions to make. I'm getting there slowly though.

Next will be the JVC, that will be a breeze since it doesn't have a CMS, all I can do is gray-scale and gamma, probably take me 30-60 minutes I'm guessing unless it is tricky.


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post #2089 of 2858 Old 11-29-2011, 04:56 PM
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Hi I'm new here, I just got a Mitsubishi HC4000, connected through HDMI to a Oppo BDP93, and I find myself without being able to adjust the image position. The manual says that with the HDMI IN connection I can't adjust the image (vertically and horizontally this is), but that sounds really highly unlikely, that's why I'm asking, is it really like that? What can I do to be able to adjust the image?

Thank you in advance for your replies.

Bisto.
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post #2090 of 2858 Old 11-29-2011, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgveteran View Post

Other than burning in the bulb and dimming the contrast, any other tips for the newly RBE sensitive.

Not that i would do this, would 720p help....

I can only speak for myself, but have heard of others that have experienced the same...

My brain stopped seeing the RBE after a couple weeks. It was about 60 days into my first DLP projector when I began to see RBE. It was so bad that I was getting headaches after a relatively short viewing period. This lasted for a couple weeks, but after forcing myself to watch it for a couple weeks it completely disappeared. Others have speculated that this was due to the lamp dimming - I KNOW that to not be the case, otherwise they would have returned when I changed out the lamp. They did not.

My brain adjusted.
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post #2091 of 2858 Old 11-29-2011, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMaugans View Post

I can only speak for myself, but have heard of others that have experienced the same...

My brain stopped seeing the RBE after a couple weeks. It was about 60 days into my first DLP projector when I began to see RBE. It was so bad that I was getting headaches after a relatively short viewing period. This lasted for a couple weeks, but after forcing myself to watch it for a couple weeks it completely disappeared. Others have speculated that this was due to the lamp dimming - I KNOW that to not be the case, otherwise they would have returned when I changed out the lamp. They did not.

My brain adjusted.

I'm with you. I use to see them all the time. I still can if I'm really tired. Most of the time though, it's not an issue.
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post #2092 of 2858 Old 11-29-2011, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ll-bisto-ll View Post

Hi I'm new here, I just got a Mitsubishi HC4000, connected through HDMI to a Oppo BDP93, and I find myself without being able to adjust the image position. The manual says that with the HDMI IN connection I can't adjust the image (vertically and horizontally this is), but that sounds really highly unlikely, that's why I'm asking, is it really like that? What can I do to be able to adjust the image?

Thank you in advance for your replies.

Bisto.

In the 'Signal Menu' that's correct, you can't adjust it with HDMI IN.

But you can adjust the vertical position only (not horizontal) here: IMAGE>ADVANCED MENU>VERTICAL LOCATION

Do note that this will CROP your image if you are watching any 16:9 content (like HD cable, satellite and many movies like animation, etc.). This is NOT lens shift! You can not use this to position your image for installation purposes unless you don't mind cropping your image! BUT, if you are doing a 2.35:1 CIH screen, then it is handy for positioning your 2.35 image towards the top or bottom of the 16:9 box.

I have a 16:9 screen, but when watching a 2.35 aspect movie, I shift the 2.35 image to the bottom of my 16:9 screen w/o cropping. I've saved this 'shifted' position in one of the AV Memory buttons on the remote.
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post #2093 of 2858 Old 11-30-2011, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMaugans View Post

I can only speak for myself, but have heard of others that have experienced the same...

My brain stopped seeing the RBE after a couple weeks. It was about 60 days into my first DLP projector when I began to see RBE. It was so bad that I was getting headaches after a relatively short viewing period. This lasted for a couple weeks, but after forcing myself to watch it for a couple weeks it completely disappeared. Others have speculated that this was due to the lamp dimming - I KNOW that to not be the case, otherwise they would have returned when I changed out the lamp. They did not.

My brain adjusted.

My big problem is the size of the screen and where i sit. 100" wide at about 10' away.
So, the brightness will raise and lower blacks... Hmmmm. I always get thrown off by Brightness
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post #2094 of 2858 Old 12-01-2011, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

In the 'Signal Menu' that's correct, you can't adjust it with HDMI IN.

But you can adjust the vertical position only (not horizontal) here: IMAGE>ADVANCED MENU>VERTICAL LOCATION

Do note that this will CROP your image if you are watching any 16:9 content (like HD cable, satellite and many movies like animation, etc.). This is NOT lens shift! You can not use this to position your image for installation purposes unless you don't mind cropping your image! BUT, if you are doing a 2.35:1 CIH screen, then it is handy for positioning your 2.35 image towards the top or bottom of the 16:9 box.

I have a 16:9 screen, but when watching a 2.35 aspect movie, I shift the 2.35 image to the bottom of my 16:9 screen w/o cropping. I've saved this 'shifted' position in one of the AV Memory buttons on the remote.

Thank you very much, that's what I'm currently setting then. I'll be posting any other questions if they pop up.

Thank you!
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post #2095 of 2858 Old 12-01-2011, 05:20 PM
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Any rumors floating around regarding when the succesor to the HC4000 might come out, and when? Any word about 3D?
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post #2096 of 2858 Old 12-01-2011, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by sivart321 View Post

Any rumors floating around regarding when the succesor to the HC4000 might come out, and when? Any word about 3D?

Well for 3D it's the HC7800

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1360881

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1345742

Though it's price point is MUCH higher than the HC4000.

The HC4000 hasn't been discontinued and there is no word of any Mits DLP model between these 2, nor any news of a 'successor' to the HC4000.
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post #2097 of 2858 Old 12-01-2011, 11:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Mitsubishi should pay me a salary for as many of these hc4000's as I have recommended and sold in this forum :P


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
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Coder's Top Projector Picks of 2012 --http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....

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post #2098 of 2858 Old 12-01-2011, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Mitsubishi should pay me a salary for as many of these hc4000's as I have recommended and sold in this forum :P

I think they deducted it from the ones you returned
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post #2099 of 2858 Old 12-02-2011, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

I think they deducted it from the ones you returned

+1...HaHaHaHaHa.......too funny



The only way I see that they make a better one is to put a DC4 in it....I'd step up to that..if they go to lens shift and IRIS then that will bump up the cost considerable....I'm not a 3D guy I just awna the best picture that I can afford and I think a DC4 would be headed in the right direction...

War Eagle!!!
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post #2100 of 2858 Old 12-02-2011, 07:50 AM
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Yeah, DC4 and a manual iris at minimum. A DI as a bonus (that you can disable if need be of course).

I like PJ's with a large offset (high ceilings), so if no offset then hopefully enough lens shift to give me a good 35% offset

But now we have a $3000 min street PJ (probably more like $4000+ actually). It's a known fact that TI charges a hefty premium for their DC4 chip. Even the HC7800 doesn't have it, nor any mid-range PJ. I think this is a mistake if TI wants to really compete with the new LCD/LCOS's tech. The DC4 isn't even really much of a contrast improvement over the DC3 (like DC3 was over DC2), but I think the big $$ premium is due to the DC4 only being avail in the .95" chip size I think? Which then requires a larger lens, adding to the PJ costs even more.

TI should come out with a .65" DC4 chip, then we'd be talking , TI can still charge more for the .95" DC4 chip and the high end will use that with bigger/better lenses which as a unit will be sharper than the .65" DC4 chippers.

But to move the DLP tech forward TI needs to put a affordable DC4 chip out!!!
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