Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 96 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2851 of 2872 Old 03-06-2014, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

Strange that the Canadian price is $423 Canadian, but only $221 US dollars from the USA site.

confused.gif

Yes I noticed that too. Odd. I appreciate the link though.

I found this place... they have a section outlining the importance of ensuring lamps are legit, not copies, etc. but for some reason I still wonder:

http://www.projectorlampsource.ca/mitsubishi_hc4000_projector_bulb.html

Mitsubishi HC4000/Elite Screens 120" SableFrame CineWhite/Darbee Darblet/WDTV LIVE HUB/WD MYBOOK LIVE NAS
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post #2852 of 2872 Old 03-06-2014, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funstuff View Post

Yes I noticed that too. Odd. I appreciate the link though.

I found this place... they have a section outlining the importance of ensuring lamps are legit, not copies, etc. but for some reason I still wonder:

http://www.projectorlampsource.ca/mitsubishi_hc4000_projector_bulb.html
Not sure why the Canadian price is so much higher, since I've always ordered from the US site. I've always received an OEM lamp from Projector Lamp Experts. BTW I wouldn't trust the place you just found http://www.avsforum.com/t/1472311/projector-lamp-source-claims-original-bulbs-ships-generic-bulbs/0_50

"What do you mean it's too loud? My ears aren't even bleeding yet!"

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post #2853 of 2872 Old 03-07-2014, 09:51 AM
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I don't have any specific advice but you guys are making me wonder.

After moving to a new house with a different arrangement (bigger screen, longer throw), my 1000 hour bulb wasn't as bright as I wanted it (well under 11 ftl). I switched from eco to normal mode, re-calibrated, and resorted to using a brighter mode for gaming or daytime viewing where I don't care quite as much about color accuracy.

I found a place that had all the BS about true OEM bulbs but at significant savings over other places. I bought a bulb thinking I would get maybe another 500 hours out of my bulb before I would want to switch. In all appearances it was identical to the old, at least that is what I remember at the time. Had osram stamped on it somewhere.

When I finally switched, I found the new bulb to be no brighter than the old. I also found calibrating to be more difficult, it seemed to run out of red sooner than the old one even, which effectively means even less brightness for accurate greyscale.

I've just been living with it thinking it was just bulb to bulb variation or my different set up making the new bulb not as bright as I would have expected, but now I think I just got scammed. The bulb works, but I don't feel like I got what I wanted and now I feel like I need to worry about premature failure too.

Live and learn I guess.
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post #2854 of 2872 Old 03-09-2014, 05:52 PM
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Try to clean the color wheel, maybe you get a little boost in brightness.
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post #2855 of 2872 Old 05-04-2014, 02:43 PM
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Hi Guys ,

My PJ is shutting down automatically after couple of minutes. Not used for a month and the buld is around 400 Hoyrs ( low lamp) .Any idea ? Thanks for you response.

Here is the video on how it behaves

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHZleNht3_s
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post #2856 of 2872 Old 05-04-2014, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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IS it out of warranty?

Go inside the service menu and watch the temperature gauges.

Automatic shoutdown could be a bunch of things:
Bad Lamp
Overheating
Faulty Power Supply
Faulty internal voltage regulation due to a bad part within the on-board electronics (bad resistor, etc...)

**New Projector Calculator Released**
Access HERE from this thread

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post #2857 of 2872 Old 06-07-2014, 07:02 AM
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I have a HC4000 and have been away for a while, I have zero issues. Not that I want to create issues but is there a newer better firmware I should be using? I think mine is about 2 years old, or would be a new hardware platform?

Love the projector BTW.
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post #2858 of 2872 Old 08-20-2014, 10:03 PM
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Hey guys, I have had the HC4000 for about 4 years now. It has been a lovely experience, and I am always impressed with the picture quality coming out of this thing.
However, I recently moved to a new place. On power up, the projector started making a rattling noise. I thought it was probably something in the fans. I disassembled the unit and pulled out a very thin piece of plastic maybe 1.5cm wide and 4cm long, very thin. Sure enough, it had been stuck in a fan. I couldn't tell where this plastic had come from.
I then reassembled the unit and plugged it back in. The power light flashed green and red, alternating between the two colors. The fans did not turn at all. There was no image shown at all, not even a black screen. I have taken the HC4000 apart and put it back together a couple times to make sure that everything was put back together securely. No luck. I also have left the unit unplugged for days before trying again. No luck.
I read over 25 pages of this thread and haven't seen anyone with the same problem. I feel it is something stupid easy to fix, just a way to reset the computer or something. Any thoughts guys?
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post #2859 of 2872 Old 09-06-2014, 02:31 PM
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Hey Jesh, I had the exact same problem as you after replacing the bulb and trying to fix the buzzing sound.....I found your post looking to try and fix the problem, after a ton of trouble shooting I found that a small metal clip that covers a "button" signaling the lamp cover (the port to change the bulb) is closed had come dislodged. when i flipped it upside down it (the metal clip-which is about 1 cm long and only several millimeters side) fell into my new bulb and I found it because it made a rattling sound. anyways I replaced the metal clip and then it worked fine after, i still didnt fix buzzing sound, I think i have a color wheel problem.

to give you an idea of where to look. look closely at the bottom of the "lamp cover" and you will see a small "L shaped" piece of plastic that fits inside into a groove and when put in fully pushes a small black"button" you will see that if you push and hold the button yourself it will allow the projector to turn on. Hope you can find the metal clip.

i never use this forum, but if you have other questions you can email me. mowglidowgli at gmail
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post #2860 of 2872 Old 09-20-2014, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mowglidowgli View Post
Hey Jesh, I had the exact same problem as you after replacing the bulb and trying to fix the buzzing sound.....I found your post looking to try and fix the problem, after a ton of trouble shooting I found that a small metal clip that covers a "button" signaling the lamp cover (the port to change the bulb) is closed had come dislodged. when i flipped it upside down it (the metal clip-which is about 1 cm long and only several millimeters side) fell into my new bulb and I found it because it made a rattling sound. anyways I replaced the metal clip and then it worked fine after, i still didnt fix buzzing sound, I think i have a color wheel problem.

to give you an idea of where to look. look closely at the bottom of the "lamp cover" and you will see a small "L shaped" piece of plastic that fits inside into a groove and when put in fully pushes a small black"button" you will see that if you push and hold the button yourself it will allow the projector to turn on. Hope you can find the metal clip.

i never use this forum, but if you have other questions you can email me. mowglidowgli at gmail
You are awesome! That was the problem, there was no metal clip at all to depress the switch. Thank you so much!
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post #2861 of 2872 Old 12-18-2014, 10:59 PM
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Replacement bulb (assembly) - can't find one that works.

Hi!

I've had my HC4000 for about 4 years. At this point the picture is pretty dim, and I've been looking for a replacement lamp assembly. I've ordered from two different places: G-Lamps (via Amazon) and DLP Lamp Source (from their website dlplampsource.com). Both not working. They look good for about 10-12 minutes, then the "temperature" warning starts flashing and eventually the projector turns itself off. When I put the old lamp assembly back in, it works fine. Could altitude be a factor? I am in Colorado, at about 5500 feet above the sea level. Mitsubishi does not recommend using this projector above 5000 feet. However, I have had no issues with it in the past. I just can't find a replacement lamp that would work. Please advise!
Thanks!
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post #2862 of 2872 Old 01-03-2016, 02:26 PM
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Resurrecting an old thread. Who here has taken the top off the Mitsu HC4000 and could pass on that knowledge to me. I have taken all the screws off the bottom but there still seems to be something I am missing.
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post #2863 of 2872 Old 01-03-2016, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by shivaji View Post
Resurrecting an old thread. Who here has taken the top off the Mitsu HC4000 and could pass on that knowledge to me. I have taken all the screws off the bottom but there still seems to be something I am missing.
Hi Shivaji,

If I recall correctly you have to also remove the screw that holds the lamp cover and the lamp cover itself. You might also need to remove the screws that hold the IO cover at the back, however I'm not 100% sure about that.

After that you should be able to lift the top cover.
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post #2864 of 2872 Old 01-03-2016, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by stxrc View Post
Hi Shivaji,

If I recall correctly you have to also remove the screw that holds the lamp cover and the lamp cover itself. You might also need to remove the screws that hold the IO cover at the back, however I'm not 100% sure about that.

After that you should be able to lift the top cover.
Thanks for the reply. I have also removed the 2 screws on either side of the rear inputs as well. Is that what you mean in referring to the IO cover? it still seems to be caught on something when I try to lift it up and off.
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post #2865 of 2872 Old 01-04-2016, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shivaji View Post
Thanks for the reply. I have also removed the 2 screws on either side of the rear inputs as well. Is that what you mean in referring to the IO cover? it still seems to be caught on something when I try to lift it up and off.
There are 6 screws (two are the vga port nuts) to come off the io panel on the back. You also have to remove the lamp cover screw and take the lamp cover off. Also be careful as there is a small ribbon cable that is attached from the switch panel to a quick release connector on the top of the projector.
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post #2866 of 2872 Old 06-08-2016, 04:59 PM
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Hello all.

I have a HC4000 projector at home and I'm currently having an issue with it. Yesterday I used it with no problems and the lamp life "bar" was still blue with 3k hours of use. I went and turn it ON today and it only turns on for about 10 seconds, enough time for the mitsu logo to show up but after that it turns off the lamp and power light starts blinking green to red and status light blinking green, both at the same time. Manual says to contact dealer but Ive had it for over 4yrs so no warranty. Is there any troubleshooting I could do?

Thanks
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post #2867 of 2872 Old 06-08-2016, 07:40 PM
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I should have stated that when lamp goes off, fans turn on on high mode during the blinking lights. They stay like that for a few seconds then they turn off and just the blinking lights continue.
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post #2868 of 2872 Old 04-12-2017, 11:53 AM
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Hey guys,

I upgraded from my HC3800 to a used JVC RS57 (X700) and posted my thoughts over on the HC3800 thread. Starts at Post #6517 on this page if interested>>> *Unofficial* Mitsubishi HC3800 Thread
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post #2869 of 2872 Old 04-16-2017, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jesh462 View Post
You are awesome! That was the problem, there was no metal clip at all to depress the switch. Thank you so much!
Hey Jesh, I have the same problem. I'v found the metal clip but don't know where to put it. Can you please help.
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post #2870 of 2872 Old 05-30-2017, 05:01 PM
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I just posted my thoughts on a side by side comparison of my Mits 3800 against my upgraded replacement JVC RS57 (X700) in the 3800 thread. Thought to post it here too for anyone thinking of upgrading as the 3800/4000 are essentially the same.....

Side by Side comparison of Mits 3800 vs JVC RS57 (X700).

Last night I was finally able to do a side by side comparison of these PJ's on the same screen at the same time. Previously I had relied on video memory (the brain kind--so not so good), and the blocking of the lens method (both PJ's on same screen, blocking 1 lens image--alternating)--better.

But to me the best comparison is side by side at the same time. To achieve this I had to shift the (now ceiling mounted) JVC image to one side while projecting the 3800 on the other side of the screen. But since I was using ALL of the JVC's vertical shift, I had to shift the JVC image back up so high to free up horizontal shift enough to project the 3800 image on the other side (though I couldn’t get it past the ½ width mark). End result is each projector was using only about 1/4 of the screen. And the 3800 image was a bit smaller too (could not get the 3800 back far enough in table mount mode to make the images the same size).

Both PJ's were about equal brightness by my eyes.
I'm running a small 80" diagonal 16:9 gray screen, .9 gain.
RS57 was -12 Iris and auto 2 dynamic iris.
3800 was in low lamp mode.

First up was 'Lucy' blu ray....the beginning scenes where Lucy is at the swanky hotel arguing with her male friend about the 'package'. These are close up outside daytime head shots mostly and very detailed (was a 4k shot movie). Then the scenes inside the hotel lobby while Lucy is at the reception desk (black suit) and the shot of the 'goons' walking in---all dressed in black suits

>>>Overall Sharpness> Edge to the 3800. Not a huge difference, but certainly noticeable. What was also noticeable was the pixel grid on the 3800 vs the RS57 at close range (not viewing range). Even in 1080p mode on the RS57 (so not quasi 4k mode), the RS57 pixels were practically invisible on my somewhat textured screen. When I set the focus on the RS57 I have to use a white sheet of printer paper against my screen to make out the pixel grid, otherwise it gets lost on my textured screen. With the 3800 the thicker pixel lines are easy to see on my textured screen. I know that 'sharpness' perception is somewhat fooled by well-defined pixel structures vs an image w/o obvious pixel grids, so that might be what is going on here. I have no real way to rule this out as I can't make either PJ's pixel visibility the same. So I can only say the 3800 'looks' sharper.
And there's the single chip DLP vs the 3 chip JVC that isn't perfectly converged. The JVC lens is certainly superior, but perhaps it just can't fully make up for the single chip advantage. And/or they are about equal in actual sharpness and it was just more 'perception' due to the more visible pixel structure on the 3800.
Also>> the 3800 image was about 20% smaller than the RS57 image. That also might of made the 3800 image ‘appear’ sharper.
AND!...the RS57 was lens shifted all the way to one side, so that might have had some effect on sharpness too.

>>>Focus uniformity> Big win for the RS57 here. Not going by this side-by-side test here, but going by focusing both PJ’s across the whole screen, the RS57 has pretty good pixel grid focus across most of the screen. In comparison the 3800 was pretty darn crappy here. I could say focus the pixels in the center sharp, but the pixels outside of the center area were defocused, and vice versa if I focused the pixels at the corners (like where the drop down menu pops up), the center area pixels will not be in focus. I think the best I could do was maybe have about 40% of the 3800’s pixels in focus at once.

>>>POP> Gonna have to give a slight edge to the 3800 here as well. As well dialed in as I have my RS57, and as much 'Pop' I thought it had (perhaps surpassing my 3800 which I hadn’t viewed in 2 months), seeing them side by side showed the 3800 was a little bit clearer and had a little bit more Pop than the RS57. No adjustments on gamma/brightness/contrast could make the RS57 compete here. But these were small differences that I could only notice in a side by side viewing.

>>>Contrast, bright scenes> It appears the 3800 has the slight edge. As mentioned above, the 3800 had a little more Pop to it. Perhaps this is the 3800's superior ansi contrast in play here, it's about double the ansi contrast of JVC PJ's. There's been a lot of debate on the merits of ansi contrast values vs native contrast, but it just seems the 3800 has a slight edge here by eye.

>>>>Shadow Detail> I did not see much difference here between these 2 PJ's. Of course one could bump up the brightness (or gamma) on either PJ to get more shadow detail, but at the expense of black level and/or increasing overall image haze. But with each PJ adjusted individually using calibration discs for brightness/contrast/gamma, then some final tweaks by eye over the course of months/years (for the 3800 at least), it seem both had similar shadow details....with the edge going to the JVC for the shadows being just 'blacker' w/o black crush. I was expecting to perhaps get more shadow detail with the RS57 along with blacker blacks, but it seems the shadow detail is about the same, just not has hazy and gray.
The 3800 was known to have good or great(?) shadow detail back in the day and it seemed to have played that card here as well.

Overall there wasn't much difference here between these PJ's on bright content. I'd give a slight edge to the 3800 overall. Quite an achievement for a 7 year old tech PJ costing about $1200 new, vs the RS57 from 4 years ago @ $8k!

Next disc was Prometheus Blu Ray.
Ok, here's where the RS57 shines! Or lack of the 'shine', lol. I'm just gonna focus on dark scene content here.

>>Contrast/blacks/shadows> The one thing I noticed right off the bat between these PJ's is the no-image black screen side by side. The 3800 is a bloody torch in comparison! The RS57 was just black as black can be---in comparison. A big win here for the RS57, no contest at all. Do remember I'm running -12 on manual iris and auto 2 on the dynamic, so it really clamps down in a no image black screen. In comparison it appeared the RS57 wasn't even 'on'. Surprisingly this stark difference wasn't as obvious in space shots with the spaceship. Yes you could notice the 'space' was blacker with the RS57, but not as drastic as a no image black frame shows. My guess is that on this Blu ray, the black space was just not authored/shot to be at the darkest level. Perhaps it would look too weird and/or less real if they did that. Hence the differences here are not as drastic.
But the cave shot at the beginning of the movie, where Rapace first breaks through the rock, it stars off totally black until she breaks through and light comes through that hole. RS57 is just black here while the 3800 is of course brighter on the blacks....hazy black/grays in comparison.
Later in the flick, the inner tunnels shots, again the RS57 just provides a more solid black/contrasty image in comparison to the 3800, no real surprise there. But again, I was still surprised the actual shadow 'detail' was about the same between them.

>>>Dark scene Pop> Edge to the RS57 for its superior native contrast/blacks. But it has to be a fairly dark scene. A mixed dark scene scenario seems to bring the RS57 more into line with the 3800, though in a side by side you can still see the RS57 has better blacks.

Overall with dark to very dark scenes the win obviously goes to the RS57, with a bigger margin towards the RS57 the darker the scene gets.

That being said, the Mits 3800 is one mighty PJ for its age and original cost. Mind you, I dialed in my 3800 pretty good so that it popped good in bright scenes and did well in darks too. I'm super happy with my RS57 and the reasonings for upgrading to it were confirmed: Better contrast/blacks in darker scenes. I was hoping to not lose too much bright scene pop/sharpness vs the 3800 and essentially I did not. But there also didn't ‘appear’ to be any gains in that regard.

I waited 7 years to upgrade and I'm glad I did. The 3800 is still a damn good PJ, especially for it's used value (sold mine to a friend). Viewing 'my' 3800 side-by-side to the RS57 only confirmed that. The $2k I paid for my RS57 (which came with an extra new OEM lamp thrown in) minus the $$ from selling my 3800 made the upgrade a no brainer for me. The RS57 is a perfect fit for my smaller screen---the newer JVC's have way more firepower for way bigger screens. I think I would have taken a black level hit with the brighter JVC's on my small screen hence the RS57/X700 (or X500/RS49/RS4910) were a better fit for ‘me’.

So overall a very happy camper! And my friend is getting a damn good 3800!
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post #2871 of 2872 Old 06-17-2017, 06:05 AM
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Hey, guys. I have this projector and love it. But yesterday,
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post #2872 of 2872 Old 06-17-2017, 06:08 AM
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Yesterday I mistakenly put a password and now I cannot go over the password. Any thoughts?
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