New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 124 - AVS Forum
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post #3691 of 5315 Old 02-26-2012, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by audionewer View Post

so if i dont need ambient light, then what does it mean on the comment?

recommend image brightness for rooms with ambient lights.
and also say " greater room light requires a brighter image


on calculator, the closer you get to the screen, the brighter your image will be but the smaller your screen will become. The further the projector from the screen, the bigger the image on your screen will be but the less bright your image will become. so then, the further back you go, the darker the room needs to be to compensate for the lumens lose or brightness of the projector, the closer you get to the screen the lumens increases or brightness so, in theory, the more ambient light you can have without washing out the screen.

I have a 125" screen at projector distance of 13.7 feet and a zoom range of 1.20X which gives me an image brightness of 21 FL and so based on this, the calculator suggests this, "Recommended image brightness for low ambient light" so at 21 FL i need a darker room for the image on the screen to be bright enough to view at 13.7 feet away from screen to projector with a 125" screen at 1.20X room range and a 1.1 gain screen.

Hope this helps or at least steers you into the right direction.

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post #3692 of 5315 Old 02-26-2012, 05:52 AM
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So, I played with the tuning settings for the optoma 3d glasses, and i highly recommend that you do this. Not only was i able to brighten the image but the depth improved significantly on some movies that i previously thought were a little flat looking.

If you make a mistake, just use the reset.
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post #3693 of 5315 Old 02-26-2012, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvh View Post

on calculator, the closer you get to the screen, the brighter your image will be but the smaller your screen will become. The further the projector from the screen, the bigger the image on your screen will be but the less bright your image will become. so then, the further back you go, the darker the room needs to be to compensate for the lumens lose or brightness of the projector, the closer you get to the screen the lumens increases or brightness so, in theory, the more ambient light you can have without washing out the screen.

I have a 125" screen at projector distance of 13.7 feet and a zoom range of 1.20X which gives me an image brightness of 21 FL and so based on this, the calculator suggests this, "Recommended image brightness for low ambient light" so at 21 FL i need a darker room for the image on the screen to be bright enough to view at 13.7 feet away from screen to projector with a 125" screen at 1.20X room range and a 1.1 gain screen.

Hope this helps or at least steers you into the right direction.

i have bedroom with blackout shades on both of the windows. so the room is dark. the bedroom is 12"x10". it is like this:



the projector is almost to the top of the ceiling.

144 inches - 15 inches (projector + cable) = (129inches) 10.79 ft

acorrding to this sites:

http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/

i need brightness for 3d and not for 2d cause for 2d (36.6 fL (27 fL @ 500 hrs)) i might need the ND .3 filter. For 3d i need brightness cause it is only 3D = 14fL (11fL @500 hrs). i might need to turn on the brightness or i need ambient light for it. is that correct?
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post #3694 of 5315 Old 02-26-2012, 08:40 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audionewer View Post

so if i dont need ambient light, then what does it mean on the comment?

recommend image brightness for rooms with ambient lights.
and also say " greater room light requires a brighter image

Ambient light is light coming into your room beyond total darkness--maybe a lamp, light through a window or curtains, etc. Ambient light causes the screen to reflect some of it, thus reducing brightness and contrast that your eyes perceive. So the more ambient light you have in the room, the brighter and more contrast you need to counteract it.

Looking at your setup, I think you are okay for 3D. You need to try it. Also for 2D. It's best to try it first before making a lot of adjustments.
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post #3695 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 04:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_ACa View Post

So, I played with the tuning settings for the optoma 3d glasses, and i highly recommend that you do this. Not only was i able to brighten the image but the depth improved significantly on some movies that i previously thought were a little flat looking.

If you make a mistake, just use the reset.

How does making thr glasses brighter affect the contrast and blk levels. Seems it would kill it. My pani dmpbd210 3d player u can tweak depth and blk levels. I have not needed to fool with settings on rf glasses. But worth looking into. Thnx for the post

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post #3696 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvh View Post


How does making thr glasses brighter affect the contrast and blk levels. Seems it would kill it. My pani dmpbd210 3d player u can tweak depth and blk levels. I have not needed to fool with settings on rf glasses. But worth looking into. Thnx for the post

Well, the brightness improvement still results in a darker image than 2d, so the black levels are not that impacted really, but the improvement in brightness made the overall image more satisfying.

The depth improvement made despicable me go from fairly flat looking "should just watch in regular 2d" to "wow one of my best 3d discs". Some movies it did not make better b/c they already looked good, but some of the flatter looking movies definitely improved.
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post #3697 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 10:14 AM
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Just a update. purchased this projector on 1/7/2012 it is version C01. it was not remembering my user settings and just a week ago locked up for the first time. had to unplug it to turn it off. called Optoma today and was told to send in a RMA to get a firmware update. I was assured that the turnaround time for this would be 5 to 7 days. I am hopeful I really like this projector and hope the new firmware takes care of any issues.

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post #3698 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Co2 added color and tint on some signals where it wasn't there before. Co3 makes it more stable, working on the lock up problem (I haven't had any at Co2). Co4 helps users with anamorphic lenses, it's help video issues caused by the lens.

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post #3699 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spanner View Post

Just a update. purchased this projector on 1/7/2012 it is version C01. it was not remembering my user settings and just a week ago locked up for the first time. had to unplug it to turn it off. called Optoma today and was told to send in a RMA to get a firmware update. I was assured that the turnaround time for this would be 5 to 7 days. I am hopeful I really like this projector and hope the new firmware takes care of any issues.

let us know how the turnaround actually turns out, if it's really 5-7 days i'm definitely sending in my c02 firmware to get updated.
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post #3700 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by oleus View Post

let us know how the turnaround actually turns out, if it's really 5-7 days i'm definitely sending in my c02 firmware to get updated.

I will. At what point can you firmware update without sending it in ? I saw it somewhere here but cant remember

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post #3701 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spanner View Post

I will. At what point can you firmware update without sending it in ? I saw it somewhere here but cant remember

there is a flash updater available, but as of yet, no one here has reported that it has worked for them. the utility locks up and becomes unresponsive before installing the new firmware.
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post #3702 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 01:35 PM
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I have 2 pairs of the Optoma RF glasses with an HD3300 from AVS. I have had them since October last year but was only able to watch 3D this last week when the local Frys put a bunch of the IMax movies on sale for $10 each. So, one pair seems to work just fine. Nice 3D image. The second pair acts like it is syncing in that the red light stops flashing but the right lens sees a ghosted (double vision) The left lens is a clear image but not the right. Is there an adjustment for this or does it sound like I have a faulty pair of glasses? Kind of wish I had discovered this months ago but have not had any 3D source material until now.

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post #3703 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 01:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spanner View Post

I will. At what point can you firmware update without sending it in ? I saw it somewhere here but cant remember

You can't go from Co1 to Co3, Co2 would have to be added by the techs, then they would put on well Co4.

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post #3704 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 07:53 PM
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question, i have a gtx 560 ti graphics card in my computer. and i purchased the 3d tv software, and used to use it with the hmz-t1 3d personal viewer, it worked perfectly, my question is, will i still be able to use the DLP LINK OPTIMA 3D GLASSES, with this projector when watching 3d content through the 3d tv application, or will i need the nivida 3d active shutter glasses?

i will be using HDMI CABLE DIRECTLY FROM THE COMPUTER TO MY OPTOMA HD 33.


AFTER LOOKING AT THE THE PRODUCT DATA SHEET FOR THE DLP LINK 3D GLASSES

Additional Requirements for 3D Viewing
 DLP-Link projector
 Computer with graphic capability to display 3D content at 120Hz


is my gtx 560 ti capable of doing 120Hz. over hdmi
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post #3705 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprinkster View Post

question, i have a gtx 560 ti graphics card in my computer. and i purchased the 3d tv software, and used to use it with the hmz-t1 3d personal viewer, it worked perfectly, my question is, will i still be able to use the DLP LINK OPTIMA 3D GLASSES, with this projector when watching 3d content through the 3d tv application, or will i need the nivida 3d active shutter glasses?

i will be using HDMI CABLE DIRECTLY FROM THE COMPUTER TO MY OPTOMA HD 33.

AFTER LOOKING AT THE THE PRODUCT DATA SHEET FOR THE DLP LINK 3D GLASSES

Additional Requirements for 3D Viewing
? DLP-Link projector
? Computer with graphic capability to display 3D content at 120Hz

is my gtx 560 ti capable of doing 120Hz. over hdmi

Yes.
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post #3706 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 09:24 PM
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Yes.

ive been reading it will only do 720p at 120hz... and 1080/60hz

so how are people running full 1080p hd at 120hz... A DUAL LINK Port is required , granted my graphics card has that, but this projector does not correct?\\

im under the impression hdmi is limited to 1080p/60hz or 720p/120hz.


i need to know which way im going, i prefer to go with dlp, but i need to make sure its good to go, that 120hz requirement, is road blocking me... but some people here have it working, whats your set up people?
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post #3707 of 5315 Old 02-27-2012, 11:15 PM
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My apologies. It will NOT do 1080p @ 120hz over HDMI with regards to this projector. Card definitely has ability however.
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post #3708 of 5315 Old 02-28-2012, 03:21 AM
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My apologies. It will NOT do 1080p @ 120hz over HDMI with regards to this projector. Card definitely has ability however.

yes i see so im assuming people are using dplink glasses, BUT, are not using it at 1080p/120hz but are using it at 720p/120hz , the whole point of me getting the projector is for full hd, so i guess im going rf glasses style, i did like the idea of a setup free glasses setup, but ill manage
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post #3709 of 5315 Old 02-28-2012, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoyleS View Post

I have 2 pairs of the Optoma RF glasses with an HD3300 from AVS. I have had them since October last year but was only able to watch 3D this last week when the local Frys put a bunch of the IMax movies on sale for $10 each. So, one pair seems to work just fine. Nice 3D image. The second pair acts like it is syncing in that the red light stops flashing but the right lens sees a ghosted (double vision) The left lens is a clear image but not the right. Is there an adjustment for this or does it sound like I have a faulty pair of glasses? Kind of wish I had discovered this months ago but have not had any 3D source material until now.

I had the same problem and it was faulty glasses. One of the lenses was not cycling right out of the box.
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post #3710 of 5315 Old 02-28-2012, 09:32 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprinkster View Post

yes i see so im assuming people are using dplink glasses, BUT, are not using it at 1080p/120hz but are using it at 720p/120hz , the whole point of me getting the projector is for full hd, so i guess im going rf glasses style, i did like the idea of a setup free glasses setup, but ill manage

I'm assuming you understand that it plays bluray at 1080p 24hz via frame packing. What you are looking for is frame sequential only done at 720p/120hz--but according the manual done at 1024/720p (not 1280/720p). Those doing passive are using two projectors on a silver screen that can maintain polarization to use passive glasses. I was using a PC with my ACER 5360 at 720p and DLPlink, and it was great, but always a pain to boot up and get the software running and the drivers--very buggy. So having the HD33/3300 and a $100 3D bluray player is so much nicer to work with.
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post #3711 of 5315 Old 02-28-2012, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by threed123 View Post

I'm assuming you understand that it plays bluray at 1080p 24hz via frame packing. What you are looking for is frame sequential only done at 720p/120hz--but according the manual done at 1024/720p (not 1280/720p). Those doing passive are using two projectors on a silver screen that can maintain polarization to use passive glasses. I was using a PC with my ACER 5360 at 720p and DLPlink, and it was great, but always a pain to boot up and get the software running and the drivers--very buggy. So having the HD33/3300 and a $100 3D bluray player is so much nicer to work with.

Resolution
HDMI 1.4a 3D Input
Input Timing
1280 x 720p @ 50Hz Top-and-Bottom
1280 x 720p @ 60Hz Top-and-Bottom
1280 x 720p @ 50Hz Frame packing
1280 x 720p @ 60Hz Frame packing
1920 x 1080i @ 50 Hz Side-by-Side (Half)
1920 x 1080i @ 60 Hz Side-by-Side (Half)
1920 x 1080p @ 24 Hz Top-and-Bottom
1920 x 1080p @ 24 Hz Frame packing

HDMI 1.3 3D Content
1920 x 1080i @ 50Hz Side-by-Side (Half) While 3D Format is SBS
1920 x 1080i @ 60Hz Side-by-Side (Half)
1280 x 720p @ 50Hz Side-by-Side (Half)
1280 x 720p @ 60Hz Side-by-Side (Half)
1920 x 1080i @ 50Hz Top-and-Bottom While 3D Format is Top and Bottom
1920 x 1080i @ 60Hz Top-and-Bottom
1280 x 720p @ 50Hz Top-and-Bottom
1280 x 720p @ 60Hz Top-and-Bottom

2D Input (include HDMI/VGA port)
1024 x 768 @ 120Hz Frame sequential Auto apply 3D
1024 x 768 @ 120Hz Frame sequential Mode
2D Input (include HDMI/VGA/Component/Composite port)
480i HQFS While 3D Format is Frame sequential

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post #3712 of 5315 Old 02-28-2012, 10:53 AM
 
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Note, that frame sequential @120hz is 1024x768--I stated it wrong as 1024/720p
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yea i just decided to go with rf glasses instead, that way i can skip pass all the switching from 720p to 1080p crap, and still do everything 2d, and 3d at 1080p.

i was attracted to dlp link because it just works automatically without any of the syncing stuff, but when i think about it, it wont be that bad.
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Yesterday I played around with the truemotion and truecolor settings on the Optoma. I don't know whether this is just me, but I tried several sources 2D and 3D, but I just don't see anything different in the picture/motion...even with the splitscreen demo I didn't notice a change.

Is this so minimal it's for the perfectionist, or is something wrong?
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do u see any ghosting when u watch 3d bluray?
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post #3716 of 5315 Old 02-29-2012, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shappy1010 View Post

Yesterday I played around with the truemotion and truecolor settings on the Optoma. I don't know whether this is just me, but I tried several sources 2D and 3D, but I just don't see anything different in the picture/motion...even with the splitscreen demo I didn't notice a change.

Is this so minimal it's for the perfectionist, or is something wrong?

It makes a huge difference. Especially in 3D. In 3D I have Pure Color on 1 and Pure Motion on 1 too. I am also running 3D in STD Lamp Mode with my own tweaked settings and looks fantastic. Watched HUGO last night with family and just blew our Minds. My wife usually never comments on how great movie looks, but ever since she has been watching 3D on our 125" gain 1.1 Screen, she raves about it. Now, I am using the RF Glasses and absolutely love them. Sold my DLP LINK. My settings are are a few pages back.

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post #3717 of 5315 Old 02-29-2012, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audionewer View Post

do u see any ghosting when u watch 3d bluray?

No Ghosting at all for me. No nothing really.

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post #3718 of 5315 Old 02-29-2012, 04:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shappy1010 View Post

Yesterday I played around with the truemotion and truecolor settings on the Optoma. I don't know whether this is just me, but I tried several sources 2D and 3D, but I just don't see anything different in the picture/motion...even with the splitscreen demo I didn't notice a change.

Is this so minimal it's for the perfectionist, or is something wrong?

I was told it's not for movies well maybe truecolor if you like it. Pure motion is for fast moving stuff, video games, sports.

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post #3719 of 5315 Old 03-01-2012, 06:54 AM
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I was told it's not for movies well maybe truecolor if you like it. Pure motion is for fast moving stuff, video games, sports.

When I watch 2D, i do not use pure motion because of the 24 frames since that is the original format for movies and being a videographer who shoots in 24 frames, gives a movie feel which is very important. But for 3D I find that it still maintains the movie feel and just gives 3D a cleaner picture to compensate for the judder in fast action scenes or actors running. In 3D, not 2D, the judder is just too much to visually handle in 3D. Just my preference though and is subjective.

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post #3720 of 5315 Old 03-01-2012, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
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When I watch 2D, i do not use pure motion because of the 24 frames since that is the original format for movies and being a videographer who shoots in 24 frames, gives a movie feel which is very important. But for 3D I find that it still maintains the movie feel and just gives 3D a cleaner picture to compensate for the judder in fast action scenes or actors running. In 3D, not 2D, the judder is just too much to visually handle in 3D. Just my preference though and is subjective.

i may be coming around on this a bit. i HATE puremotion on 2d, but when i disable it in 3d (after it auto-triggers) there are scenes that seem to definitely suffer from judder a bit too much. i'm just trying to figure out which level (low, medium or high) it's applying to the 3d signal, since it's not indicated in the puremotion menu when it defaults to being on in 3d mode (if you've turned it off for 2d).
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