New Optoma HD33 HD3300 1080p 3D Projector Review - Page 80 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #2371 of 5324 Old 10-31-2011, 05:54 PM
AVS Special Member
 
oleus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,563
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 12
i didn't know that about the joystick thing being able to adjust things like ghosting/dark image.
oleus is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2372 of 5324 Old 10-31-2011, 06:02 PM
Member
 
NE_Pats_Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 19
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by waltermixxx View Post

I had an HD80 and mounted my HD33 without having to move the bracket very much if at all... hope this helps....

Thanks waltermixxx.
The HD80 is configuration 'E' in the instructions which worked with two minor changes for that configuration.
For the sake of others who might be trying this as well:

- I used the M4x16 screws(P) for attachment to the projector instead of the M3x12(O). (The holes on projector indicate M4)

- I used the .25" spacers(M) instead of the 0.125 spacer(L) (otherwise the 16mm screws are too long)

Hope this helps others.
Thanks!
NE_Pats_Fan is offline  
post #2373 of 5324 Old 10-31-2011, 06:34 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mikes2cents's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,541
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by mante View Post

Hi,

A US national company has a 20% off coupon that should be able to be used at another US national "blue" electronics company to purchase the Optoma HD33. That is if both stores are in your market. I don't know if it's kosher to say the names of the companies (neither are Costco ), is it allowed? If not, feel free to pm me as the coupon expires November 5th.

Cj

Here is a hint: if you recently purchased from BB and you have a local OMax, current coupon could save you $300

Did not see the HD33 listed on OMax and further, the 20% coupon specifically excludes projectors along with a lot of other items.PM me if I am a soup sandwich here.
Mikes2cents is offline  
post #2374 of 5324 Old 10-31-2011, 08:08 PM
Senior Member
 
vidwiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 231
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt in Houston View Post

Which DLP-Links do you have?

Thanks.

Optomas. Took me several hrs before I noticed.
vidwiz is offline  
post #2375 of 5324 Old 10-31-2011, 09:00 PM
Member
 
mante's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes2cents View Post

Did not see the HD33 listed on OMax and further, the 20% coupon specifically excludes projectors along with a lot of other items.PM me if I am a soup sandwich here.

Mike,

Thanks for editing. I didn't see the projector exclusion nor did BB when I was talking with the managers today. Sorry for getting hopes up, but looks like a no go and I will edit my original post above.
mante is offline  
post #2376 of 5324 Old 10-31-2011, 09:06 PM
Member
 
ekscden's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 134
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So did we decide if the HD3300 is perceptibly better than the HD33? I know the warranty is clearly better, but as far at the better contrast is concerned has anyone confirmed this? Even if it was 5000:1 vs 4000:1 would that be something you'd notice in a very dark room?
ekscden is offline  
post #2377 of 5324 Old 10-31-2011, 09:27 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mikes2cents's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,541
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by mante View Post

Mike,

Thanks for editing. I didn't see the projector exclusion nor did BB when I was talking with the managers today. Sorry for getting hopes up, but looks like a no go and I will edit my original post above.

No problem, and if you pulled that off good for you.
Mikes2cents is offline  
post #2378 of 5324 Old 10-31-2011, 09:32 PM
Senior Member
 
EEBuckeye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Finally put up the new HD3300 tonight and instantly turned it on.. all I can say is WOW!?! I can't believe how much better the picture is from my HD72. I realize the bulb is brand new at this point but the colors and brightness are amazing even in Cinema mode! I have not tweaked any settings at this point but I am extremely happy!

I always want the colors to "pop-out" of the screen and the HD3300 does that without question! I'm sure the HD33 is extremely similar but I am not sure why anyone would not choose the HD3300 when it can be ordered from the AVS store for a great price!

The only thing I wish it had at this point is horizontal lens shift (I realize DLP's do not typically have these features). The HD72 lens is on the opposite side of the HD3300 (and HD33) so my screen it slightly off right now. I'll figure out how to fix it - will not be a big deal.
EEBuckeye is offline  
post #2379 of 5324 Old 10-31-2011, 09:36 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
guitarman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: The Bay Area San Francisco.
Posts: 12,968
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Sounds good, colors are so natural over the HD72 becuase the processing is highly increased, increased to a point where a perfect 0 to 100 grayscale turns out perfect. Try some of my colorfacts calibration numbers in the first post.
enjoy

Sorta looks like this heh?
http://www.videodementia.com/sales/hd33d65k2d4.jpg

Tom/guitarman
VideoDementia

Are you twisted also?
http://www.videodementia.com/sales/TomWithWires.jpg
guitarman is offline  
post #2380 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 04:33 AM
Member
 
paul77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 36
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have managed to eliminate ghosting with the rf emitter, also reversed polarisation so no more sync invert!

I am no expert and did what I could with monster rf manual

I cannot believe optoma has not given guidance on how to use this thing!!!!!!

It might be an idea for some knowledgable member who owns this a hd33 with rf to give a decent how to, unfortunately I am not knowledgable

It is a major function that needs to be mastered to maximise the 3d potential in my view
paul77 is offline  
post #2381 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 07:35 AM
Advanced Member
 
chucky08016's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 709
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by EEBuckeye View Post

Finally put up the new HD3300 tonight and instantly turned it on.. all I can say is WOW!?! I can't believe how much better the picture is from my HD72. I realize the bulb is brand new at this point but the colors and brightness are amazing even in Cinema mode! I have not tweaked any settings at this point but I am extremely happy!

I always want the colors to "pop-out" of the screen and the HD3300 does that without question! I'm sure the HD33 is extremely similar but I am not sure why anyone would not choose the HD3300 when it can be ordered from the AVS store for a great price!

The only thing I wish it had at this point is horizontal lens shift (I realize DLP's do not typically have these features). The HD72 lens is on the opposite side of the HD3300 (and HD33) so my screen it slightly off right now. I'll figure out how to fix it - will not be a big deal.

That's great news as I also will be upgrading from a HD72 and am having a hard time choosing between the HD3300, Epson 3010, or the Acer H9500BD.

Question... how's the contrast vs. the HD72? Better hopefully? I'm going to be shooting at a 126" AT screen in a dedicated light controlled (Read: Batcave) theater.
chucky08016 is offline  
post #2382 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 07:48 AM
Member
 
armandxp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sanford, FL
Posts: 159
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by paul77 View Post

I have managed to eliminate ghosting with the rf emitter, also reversed polarisation so no more sync invert!

I am no expert and did what I could with monster rf manual

I cannot believe optoma has not given guidance on how to use this thing!!!!!!

It might be an idea for some knowledgable member who owns this a hd33 with rf to give a decent how to, unfortunately I am not knowledgable

It is a major function that needs to be mastered to maximise the 3d potential in my view

I messed with the settings on the RF glasses and I feel like I got a perfect picture with no ghosting. But, I couldn't figure out how to get to the polarization setting, I have the Monster manual, but I guess it was a little confusing to me. Haven't had a lot of time to really sit down and play with it, though. I have a three day weekend coming up, so I will mess with it. I never did have a problem with the sync invert with the RF's, though.
armandxp is offline  
post #2383 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 08:34 AM
Senior Member
 
EEBuckeye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I need to use the projector more but contrast appears to be great to me. I was blown away by the picture initially compared to my HD72 which I thought was very good. I was shocked it was in Cinema mode by default since the brightness so great.
EEBuckeye is offline  
post #2384 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 09:08 AM
AVS Special Member
 
oleus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,563
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by armandxp View Post

I messed with the settings on the RF glasses and I feel like I got a perfect picture with no ghosting. But, I couldn't figure out how to get to the polarization setting, I have the Monster manual, but I guess it was a little confusing to me. Haven't had a lot of time to really sit down and play with it, though. I have a three day weekend coming up, so I will mess with it. I never did have a problem with the sync invert with the RF's, though.

so how does one go about adjusting the settings on the rf emitter?
oleus is offline  
post #2385 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 10:37 AM
Member
 
armandxp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sanford, FL
Posts: 159
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by oleus View Post

so how does one go about adjusting the settings on the rf emitter?

You really should download the free manual from Monster Vision 3D's website. It gives ok instructions. Hold the Joystick down till it shows two green lights, then left and right, adjusts one setting, and up and down adjusts the other. If you don't press any buttons after a little while, it automatically exits the adjustment mode. But, download the free manual and check it out.
armandxp is offline  
post #2386 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 11:29 AM
 
threed123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Troy, MI, USA
Posts: 2,486
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by ekscden View Post

So did we decide if the HD3300 is perceptibly better than the HD33? I know the warranty is clearly better, but as far at the better contrast is concerned has anyone confirmed this? Even if it was 5000:1 vs 4000:1 would that be something you'd notice in a very dark room?

I think it's also rated at 200 more lumens. I don't think anyone has done a side-by-side test, and frankly I don't think you could see the difference. And you have to use the AI image function that changes the brightness of the lamp like a simulated iris in order to get those high contrast numbers--and nobody seems to be using it becuase it reacts too slow. I have the HD3300 and came from a Mits HC3800 (has same Dark2 chip), and except for the Mits being sharper for Cable HD TV, they pretty much compare the same, though the HD3300 is much brighter. My point is comparing a Dark2 chip is going to be so close for contrast for any projector that has it. But that's more a function of same brightness and contrast level for a given screen size. You go bigger and brightness is going to come into play and the contrast levels change then. So maybe the HD3300 can handle a little bit bigger screen or more ambient light, but at a trade off with contrast. Just my opinion.
threed123 is offline  
post #2387 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 04:06 PM
Senior Member
 
CHUCKCHILLOUT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Magnolia, Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 282
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hello everyone. I have been looking for a reasonably priced 3D projector for my first projector. I am very new to this, but have been reading up about it for a few months now. My apartment is not light controlled.

I currently have an HDMI 1.3 7.1 surround system, AVR onkyo tx-sr605, PS3, XBOX 360, Panasonic 54G10. My room setup is as follows: 12 feet wide, 8 feet tall, and 16 feet deep.

I love the look of the fixed frame screen, but seeing as I have the TV, I think motorized will be the best solution. I have been thinking about a 106" grey screen from either elunevision, monoprice or maybe even focupix, or elite.

I have to account for my TV, 2 speakers, center channel and subwoofer. Any insight would be appreciated.
LL
LL
LL
LL
CHUCKCHILLOUT is offline  
post #2388 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 04:24 PM
 
threed123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Troy, MI, USA
Posts: 2,486
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHUCKCHILLOUT View Post

Hello everyone. I have been looking for a reasonably priced 3D projector for my first projector. I am very new to this, but have been reading up about it for a few months now. My apartment is not light controlled.

I currently have an HDMI 1.3 7.1 surround system, AVR onkyo tx-sr605, PS3, XBOX 360, Panasonic 54G10. My room setup is as follows: 12 feet wide, 8 feet tall, and 16 feet deep.

I love the look of the fixed frame screen, but seeing as I have the TV, I think motorized will be the best solution. I have been thinking about a 106" grey screen from either elunevision, monoprice or maybe even focupix, or elite.

I have to account for my TV, 2 speakers, center channel and subwoofer. Any insight would be appreciated.

I agree with the motorized screen and the Hd33/HD3300 does have a screen switch. As for the screen, a grey screen will be less than 1.0 gain and will probably not be good for 3D--you'll want the most gain you can get or at least a 1.0 gain. For 2D, though it would be fine and also help the contrast.

Also, easy fix for the drapes--get blackout drape cloth and set up a double rod for the blackout behind the drapes or sew the blackout to the drapes. Material is readily available at local drapery or material shops.
threed123 is offline  
post #2389 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 05:29 PM
AVS Special Member
 
oleus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,563
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by armandxp View Post

You really should download the free manual from Monster Vision 3D's website. It gives ok instructions. Hold the Joystick down till it shows two green lights, then left and right, adjusts one setting, and up and down adjusts the other. If you don't press any buttons after a little while, it automatically exits the adjustment mode. But, download the free manual and check it out.

thanks for the info. i'll try this tomorrow, and also download that manual
oleus is offline  
post #2390 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 05:32 PM
Senior Member
 
CHUCKCHILLOUT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Magnolia, Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 282
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
For Elunevision Grey screens I can go a couple routes, 1.) A 1.1 gain gray screen with a 160 degree viewing angle 2.) A 1.8 vivid pro cinema screen screen that has glass beads incorporporated in the material rated at 100 degrees.
CHUCKCHILLOUT is offline  
post #2391 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
guitarman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: The Bay Area San Francisco.
Posts: 12,968
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 16
With a gray screen you'll have to buy a tensioned one and they're expensive. Only matt white or dalite high power won't show waves when video is on them with the non tensioned version.

A good low priced non tension would be a 106" Dalite Model B in Matt White. They're made very solid, thicker metal.

Tom/guitarman
VideoDementia

Are you twisted also?
http://www.videodementia.com/sales/TomWithWires.jpg
guitarman is offline  
post #2392 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 07:06 PM
Member
 
Matt in Houston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 140
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I can confirm that the True Depth 3D DLP-Link rechargeable glasses do not have ANY ghosting on the bottom edge of the lenses like the Optoma RF glasses are prone to. THIS IS EXCELLENT NEWS! The image is crisp and bright and no sign of ghosting at any of the edges in fact. They are also very comfortable and have less reflective back glare than the Optoma RF glasses. They might have a SLIGHT color shift that is super hard to see, nothing any one should notice or be bothered by.

HOWEVER! I am short of recommending them just yet, as I have experienced possible sync issues. I am not sure if it is because they are designed as "white" frame DLP-Link glasses per the manual, or if the invert sync function is just causing them to shut down and not pick the sync back up. I was having a problem in this area but it could have been user error.

Also, I need to fully charge them for a few hours also just to make sure it isnt a low battery problem.

If the sync issues go away, I will have a very hard time recommending the RF glasses over them. The True Depth's seem slightly brighter in 3D and have no ghosting, look super sharp, have less glare, and are probably a hair more comfortable. Plus they cost a bit less. Also, I think the manual states they have 38% light transmission. Ill double check that stat when I look at the manual again.
Matt in Houston is offline  
post #2393 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 07:44 PM
Senior Member
 
CHUCKCHILLOUT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Magnolia, Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 282
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

With a gray screen you'll have to buy a tensioned one and they're expensive. Only matt white or dalite high power won't show waves when video is on them with the non tensioned version.

A good low priced non tension would be a 106" Dalite Model B in Matt White. They're made very solid, thicker metal.

For my situation, with the space I have and the ambient light, is that going to be the best solution? I am trying to spend $500 or less on a screen. This will probably mean that I will have less than optimal contrast levels and perhaps a slightly washed out image, is that correct?

Thanks again.
CHUCKCHILLOUT is offline  
post #2394 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
guitarman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: The Bay Area San Francisco.
Posts: 12,968
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Gray screen will help the contrast in a white room but you're giving up the best brightness for your 3D viewing. I have a white room and white screen and find the contrast and black ok. Black would be better with gray but you might see waves in video if you don't get a tensioned model.

Optoma had a 1.8gain graywolf screen the gain I think allowed you to get a non tensioned screen and be ok. Better research it it's been a while, not even sure they make it anymore of what sizes they had.

Tom/guitarman
VideoDementia

Are you twisted also?
http://www.videodementia.com/sales/TomWithWires.jpg
guitarman is offline  
post #2395 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 08:40 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mikes2cents's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,541
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHUCKCHILLOUT View Post

For my situation, with the space I have and the ambient light, is that going to be the best solution? I am trying to spend $500 or less on a screen. This will probably mean that I will have less than optimal contrast levels and perhaps a slightly washed out image, is that correct?

Thanks again.

Get the biggest 1.1 gain matte white screen you can fit in your setup or wish you did. Bigger is better and that is why most folks get a PJ. Just saying. I have a 120" Elite which works pretty good with ambient light with my 8350 and is even better when I darken the room. I almost got a 135" but realized it would not fit. Looking at it right now I sometimes wonder if I could have shoehorned that sucker in somehow. Anyway, my point is get the biggest screen you can fit in the room or risk sitting there thinking man that looks good, wonder what it would look like on that bigger screen I could have put in there. Matte white screens are not even close to $500.
Mikes2cents is offline  
post #2396 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 09:55 PM
Member
 
Matt in Houston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 140
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Okay messed with the True Depth 3D glasses again. One pair was fully charged so I used that one as my tester while the other one charged.

A good test:

Pop in Gran Turismo 5
Get into a kart
Turn driving line on
Switch to the view where you can see the gloves and steering wheel.
Drive into a tunnel and pause it...

The RF Glasses will ghost on the steering wheel, lighted instrument panel, and the white stripe on the drivers gloves. Also the driving line will ghost, getting worse the closer it gets to you and further downward on the screen.

The True Depth 3D DLP-Links only ghost a HAIR of a HAIR if you force the items listed above to be on the VERY EDGE of the bottom, top, or sides of the lenses, right where it meets the plastic frame. If you are looking at the screen (mine is a 120" from ~10ft away) as in normal use, the edges of the glasses are not in the way so the view looks perfect. This is a drastic improvement over the RF which exhibited 10 times the ghosting in this test, and at that much further from the frame and more into the actual viewing area.

Ive had no further sync issues with this charged pair, but I havent tried the second pair yet. The on/off button also works as a sync invert and it worked perfectly when I tested it. This allows you to invert sync without going into the projector's 3D menus.

Looks like I will have 4 pair of Optoma RF glasses on Ebay when I have the time. The difference is night and day here folks. I even tried to tune the ghosting out with the RF emitter and it doesnt help. I am now convinced there is a flaw in the glasses and Optoma needs to look into it. I cant believe I didnt notice this before, but I guess playing GT5 really brought it out. Its really not as noticeable at all during a 3D movie since most of the 3D action is going to be in the middle of the screen or near it at least.
Fredi Cesar likes this.
Matt in Houston is offline  
post #2397 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 09:56 PM
Senior Member
 
CHUCKCHILLOUT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Magnolia, Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 282
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes2cents View Post

Get the biggest 1.1 gain matte white screen you can fit in your setup or wish you did. Bigger is better and that is why most folks get a PJ. Just saying. I have a 120" Elite which works pretty good with ambient light with my 8350 and is even better when I darken the room. I almost got a 135" but realized it would not fit. Looking at it right now I sometimes wonder if I could have shoehorned that sucker in somehow. Anyway, my point is get the biggest screen you can fit in the room or risk sitting there thinking man that looks good, wonder what it would look like on that bigger screen I could have put in there. Matte white screens are not even close to $500.

Have you or any of the other forum members experienced there being waves or rolling patterns after having the screen go up and down over time?
CHUCKCHILLOUT is offline  
post #2398 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 10:03 PM
Advanced Member
 
futurecode's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wilkes-barre, PA
Posts: 506
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt in Houston View Post

Okay messed with the True Depth 3D glasses again. One pair was fully charged so I used that one as my tester while the other one charged.

A good test:

Pop in Gran Turismo 5
Get into a kart
Turn driving line on
Switch to the view where you can see the gloves and steering wheel.
Drive into a tunnel and pause it...

The RF Glasses will ghost on the steering wheel, lighted instrument panel, and the white stripe on the drivers gloves. Also the driving line will ghost, getting worse the closer it gets to you and further downward on the screen.

The True Depth 3D DLP-Links only ghost a HAIR of a HAIR if you force the items listed above to be on the VERY EDGE of the bottom, top, or sides of the lenses, right where it meets the plastic frame. If you are looking at the screen (mine is a 120" from ~10ft away) as in normal use, the edges of the glasses are not in the way so the view looks perfect. This is a drastic improvement over the RF which exhibited 10 times the ghosting in this test, and at that much further from the frame and more into the actual viewing area.

Ive had no further sync issues with this charged pair, but I havent tried the second pair yet. The on/off button also works as a sync invert and it worked perfectly when I tested it. This allows you to invert sync without going into the projector's 3D menus.

Looks like I will have 4 pair of Optoma RF glasses on Ebay when I have the time. The difference is night and day here folks. I even tried to tune the ghosting out with the RF emitter and it doesnt help. I am now convinced there is a flaw in the glasses and Optoma needs to look into it. I cant believe I didnt notice this before, but I guess playing GT5 really brought it out. Its really not as noticeable at all during a 3D movie since most of the 3D action is going to be in the middle of the screen or near it at least.

Any chance of a couple side by side shots of the optoma rf's and the true depths next to each other? The optomas are the only glasses that work comfortably with my script glasses, would be nice to find another option.

PSN: futurecode
futurecode is offline  
post #2399 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 10:15 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mikes2cents's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,541
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHUCKCHILLOUT View Post

Have you or any of the other forum members experienced there being waves or rolling patterns after having the screen go up and down over time?

No, and I have a manual non tension unit. Matte white screens rarely exhibit this and even when a defect does appear, from what I have read it is hard to see it while viewing content on the screen. I went with a manual screen because I have no problem/not too lazy to go pull the screen down in front of my 61" DLP TV when I want to go big screen. Good luck.
Mikes2cents is offline  
post #2400 of 5324 Old 11-01-2011, 10:20 PM
Member
 
Matt in Houston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 140
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by futurecode View Post

Any chance of a couple side by side shots of the optoma rf's and the true depths next to each other? The optomas are the only glasses that work comfortably with my script glasses, would be nice to find another option.

Let me see what I can do for ya...I will say that I just got my first pair of glasses today in fact and they fit just fine over them. I have the Nike 4225 semi-rimless glasses so they arent big or anything but the True Depth's fit over them great.

The True Depth lenses are more streamlined and not as big and round as the Optoma's, but the view is more than adequate so that the frame isnt in the way.
Matt in Houston is offline  
Reply Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP

Tags
Optoma Hd33 1080p 3d Projector , Projectors
Gear in this thread - 1080p by PriceGrabber.com

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off