Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 112 - AVS Forum
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post #3331 of 3418 Old 04-18-2014, 03:26 PM
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Projector Central compared the 5010 head-to-head with the BenQ W7000, a very good DLP projector that was a competitor to the 5010. They concluded that both produced a very good 2D image, but there were differences, and the preference would be subjective. But they preferred the 5010's image. Here are their observations:

2D image quality. In HD, the W7000 is visibly sharper and more detailed than the 5010, even with all sharpness settings at 0. There is likewise a slight, but visible, difference in dynamic range and three-dimensionality, with the W7000 edging out the 5010. On the other hand, the 5010 has much better black level, with shadows appearing significantly deeper. The 5010's picture has more of a smooth, film-like quality, while the W7000 can appear slightly artificial in comparison. There's really no other way to describe the difference -- the 5010's picture looks a little more natural. However, this last difference is a highly subjective one, and while we prefer that naturalness, others will prefer the tack-sharpness and impressive three-dimensionality of the W7000.

And here's the link:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/benq-w7000-3d-projector-review.htm?page=Shootout-vs-Epson-5010


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post #3332 of 3418 Old 04-18-2014, 10:14 PM
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All I can say is that initially I wasn't impressed with the image out of the box, but I think that is because I was expecting to be absolutely blown away after reading the reviews around the net. Don't get me wrong it was certainly an improvement on my old NEC pj.
Not only that my pj had convergence issues. All that was required was a few hours setting up the pj using the alignment feature and a bit of tweaking and now the pq is excellent.
I have still have my old pj and when I compare the 2 side by side it's obvious which is the better image. The black levels alone make a huge difference. I do have a Gray screen and this makes the blacks even deeper. Imo this pj really benefits from a Gray screen too because of the brightness even in eco mode.
I spent hours comparing white and Gray screens side by side and overall the Gray had more benefits than white.
All I can say is in the right room with the right conditions and a properly set up pj and source then the pq should be excellent as mine is now.
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post #3333 of 3418 Old 04-23-2014, 10:04 PM
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Good day, friends. Need help.
My projector has work about 2000 hours, firmware i think 1.04. Recently, several times it does not start when you I turn it on. Сooling fan start up and began flashing blue Power indicator and thats all. Shutter does not open and projector will not start and does not react on any buttons are pressed. Only turn off/on the power switch can help.
What could be the problem, please tell me.
Thank you.
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post #3334 of 3418 Old 04-25-2014, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by FSOL1 View Post

Good day, friends. Need help.
My projector has work about 2000 hours, firmware i think 1.04. Recently, several times it does not start when you I turn it on. Сooling fan start up and began flashing blue Power indicator and thats all. Shutter does not open and projector will not start and does not react on any buttons are pressed. Only turn off/on the power switch can help.
What could be the problem, please tell me.
Thank you.

This can happen from time to time. I think almost everybody's does it. Just let it finish the cycle. As long as it starts up eventually then I wouldn't worry about it. You can update to the latest firmware 1.09 here and see if that helps.
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post #3335 of 3418 Old 04-25-2014, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSOL1 View Post

Good day, friends. Need help.
My projector has work about 2000 hours, firmware i think 1.04. Recently, several times it does not start when you I turn it on. Сooling fan start up and began flashing blue Power indicator and thats all. Shutter does not open and projector will not start and does not react on any buttons are pressed. Only turn off/on the power switch can help.
What could be the problem, please tell me.
Thank you.

Yes, they do this and Ashyt is right. The symptoms should only occur rarely.

Also, a word of warning: don't turn off the projector with the hard switch on the back of the unit after turning off with the remote (even though the manual recommends doing so). My 6010 is quite low on a shelf, so I decided to take the manual's advice thinking it was good housekeeping, but my unit eventually died completely after doing lots of high-fan start-ups. Epson recommends leaving the projector in standby at all times. The 5030/6030 does not have a hard switch at all, so I assume Epson made design changes on later products for this reason.
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post #3336 of 3418 Old 04-25-2014, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by musicalfox View Post

Also, a word of warning: don't turn off the projector with the hard switch on the back of the unit after turning off with the remote (even though the manual recommends doing so). My 6010 is quite low on a shelf, so I decided to take the manual's advice thinking it was good housekeeping, but my unit eventually died completely after doing lots of high-fan start-ups. Epson recommends leaving the projector in standby at all times. The 5030/6030 does not have a hard switch at all, so I assume Epson made design changes on later products for this reason.

Out of curiosity...just exactly how does leaving the projector in standby mode (never switching the power off) help in prolonging the life of the projector? Does anyone know the exact amount of power (watts) the 5010 uses up when in standby mode?
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post #3337 of 3418 Old 04-26-2014, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rexdragon View Post

Out of curiosity...just exactly how does leaving the projector in standby mode (never switching the power off) help in prolonging the life of the projector? Does anyone know the exact amount of power (watts) the 5010 uses up when in standby mode?

Beats me, sounds pretty suspect, but that's what Epson told me. Plus, they did remove the hard switch from the later models so I assume there must have been some performance-related issues on that chassis that led them to do that.
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post #3338 of 3418 Old 04-26-2014, 12:55 PM
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Beats me, sounds pretty suspect, but that's what Epson told me. Plus, they did remove the hard switch from the later models so I assume there must have been some performance-related issues on that chassis that led them to do that.

I've got a theory. I've had several pieces of expensive electronics equipment die on me due to failed capacitors...a photography strobe, a $3000 Samsung 52" LCD TV, and most recently my 24" LCD computer monitor.

With the TV and the monitor, the symptoms were the same: They would start taking several pushes of the power button before they would turn on, and the problem would quickly get worse, so that it might take several minutes before it comes on. Eventually, they will not come on at all. But if you do get it to turn on, you can leave it running almost indefinitely.

For the Samsung TV, it was a known issue, and Samsung sent out a tech to repair the TV even after the warranty had expired. For my computer monitor, I've ordered a full set of replacement capacitors, but I haven't repaired it yet...I've just been leaving it on.

So I'm guessing that Epson discourages a full power-off to save wear and tear on the capacitors.


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post #3339 of 3418 Old 04-26-2014, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Edgar_in_Indy View Post


I've got a theory. I've had several pieces of expensive electronics equipment die on me due to failed capacitors...a photography strobe, a $3000 Samsung 52" LCD TV, and most recently my 24" LCD computer monitor.

With the TV and the monitor, the symptoms were the same: They would start taking several pushes of the power button before they would turn on, and the problem would quickly get worse, so that it might take several minutes before it comes on. Eventually, they will not come on at all. But if you do get it to turn on, you can leave it running almost indefinitely.

For the Samsung TV, it was a known issue, and Samsung sent out a tech to repair the TV even after the warranty had expired. For my computer monitor, I've ordered a full set of replacement capacitors, but I haven't repaired it yet...I've just been leaving it on.

So I'm guessing that Epson discourages a full power-off to save wear and tear on the capacitors.


It's possible about capacitor failures, however, most modern day power supplies that have standby circuits only leave the power on for the standby or wake up circuits themselves. As in computer power supplies used in desktop computers and most current receivers and monitors, the higher voltage sections are completely off during standby mode and only the circuits monitoring the push button or IR receiver sections have standby power such as 5 or 12 volts. When activated usually a small relay, yes a relay even in this day and age, or by means of a solid state relay then turns on the rest of the voltage outputs when full power is turned on.

 

Basically what I'm saying is the capacitors in the higher voltage and higher current circuits still are turned on and off just as many times going from standby to full power and back to standby! Not having access to Epson full schematics and service manuals makes it more difficult to speculate what makes the 5010 do the immediate or the long loud fan run and then eventually turn on.  Mine does it occasionally (rarely) but I leave it alone and it always turns on by itself. I know there are temperature sensors in there and also current sensors for the lamp but I wonder if there are any moisture or humidity sensors that may make the fan run high, move some air through there until it's satisfied and then turn on.

 

That's my two cents on this!

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post #3340 of 3418 Old 04-26-2014, 04:56 PM
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It sounds like you're far more knowledgeable than me, and what you're saying makes sense. I can do a little soldering, but I'm no kind of expert on electronics and circuits. I just know that when a capacitor is leaking it's usually bad! eek.gif But I can't recall ever hearing anybody talk about bad capacitors on their Epson.


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post #3341 of 3418 Old 04-26-2014, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Edgar_in_Indy View Post

It sounds like you're far more knowledgeable than me, and what you're saying makes sense. I can do a little soldering, but I'm no kind of expert on electronics and circuits. I just know that when a capacitor is leaking it's usually bad! eek.gif But I can't recall ever hearing anybody talk about bad capacitors on their Epson.


Neither can I about the bad caps on Epson 5010/6010's.  That's why I'm not sold on that hard power on/off thing. I wish I could get my hands on a service manual with schematics, a lot of questions could be answered correctly.

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post #3342 of 3418 Old 04-27-2014, 08:53 PM
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Neither can I about the bad caps on Epson 5010/6010's.  That's why I'm not sold on that hard power on/off thing. I wish I could get my hands on a service manual with schematics, a lot of questions could be answered correctly.

Yes, please do, AVMax! Many of us on this thread will sleep better after reading your report.
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post #3343 of 3418 Old 05-06-2014, 07:07 AM
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I have a PowerLite Pro Cinema 6010, and I'm confused about the proper way to use the various aspect ratio options. The manual says "In many cases, video signals are automatically resized to fit on your screen when Auto is selected as the Aspect setting." However, I don't see "Auto" listed as an option. The only options I have are Normal, Full, Zoom, Wide, Anamorphic Wide, and Horizontal Squeeze. But most of them are always greyed out; the only options I can choose are "Normal", "Anamorphic Wide", and "Horizontal Squeeze."

 

I use "Normal" when watching a DVD that is anamorphic widescreen, or a blu-ray. When watching a full-screen DVD, I need to set it to "Horizontal Squeeze", which makes it look correct (a 4:3 image). But the instruction manual says that Horizontal Squeeze is only meant for when you have an anamorphic lense attached (which I don't).

 

I have a few DVDs that are non-anamorphic widescreen. When I watch these, I have been putting it in "Horizontal Squeeze", which shows the full movie without distorting it, but of course it doesn't fill up my entire screen then; I have the black bars on the top and bottom as well as not using the sides. Today I happened to notice that if I put it in "Anamorphic Wide", it appears to actually work correctly for this; it zooms in the image the right amount so that it fills my screen without cutting off any content or distorting it. But again this is confusing, because according to the instructions, "Anamorphic wide" is only meant to be used with an anamorphic lens; it says it will distort the image otherwise.

 

So with all that background, my questions are:

 

1. Why are most of the options for aspect ratio always greyed out?

2. Where is this "Auto" mode that the manual says I should be using?

3. Why does my noticed behavior differ completely from the instruction manual? It says that "Normal" is for 4:3 images (I use it for widescreen images), etc.

 

 

Thanks for any help you can give!

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post #3344 of 3418 Old 05-06-2014, 09:07 AM
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I have a PowerLite Pro Cinema 6010, and I'm confused about the proper way to use the various aspect ratio options. The manual says "In many cases, video signals are automatically resized to fit on your screen when Auto is selected as the Aspect setting." However, I don't see "Auto" listed as an option. The only options I have are Normal, Full, Zoom, Wide, Anamorphic Wide, and Horizontal Squeeze. But most of them are always greyed out; the only options I can choose are "Normal", "Anamorphic Wide", and "Horizontal Squeeze."

I use "Normal" when watching a DVD that is anamorphic widescreen, or a blu-ray. When watching a full-screen DVD, I need to set it to "Horizontal Squeeze", which makes it look correct (a 4:3 image). But the instruction manual says that Horizontal Squeeze is only meant for when you have an anamorphic lense attached (which I don't).

I have a few DVDs that are non-anamorphic widescreen. When I watch these, I have been putting it in "Horizontal Squeeze", which shows the full movie without distorting it, but of course it doesn't fill up my entire screen then; I have the black bars on the top and bottom as well as not using the sides. Today I happened to notice that if I put it in "Anamorphic Wide", it appears to actually work correctly for this; it zooms in the image the right amount so that it fills my screen without cutting off any content or distorting it. But again this is confusing, because according to the instructions, "Anamorphic wide" is only meant to be used with an anamorphic lens; it says it will distort the image otherwise.

So with all that background, my questions are:

1. Why are most of the options for aspect ratio always greyed out?
2. Where is this "Auto" mode that the manual says I should be using?
3. Why does my noticed behavior differ completely from the instruction manual? It says that "Normal" is for 4:3 images (I use it for widescreen images), etc.


Thanks for any help you can give!

Any chance your Blu-ray player and/or AVR are also applying any aspect ratio adjustment? If you haven't already done so, try to set them each to pass out the "native" signal.


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post #3345 of 3418 Old 05-07-2014, 09:17 AM
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Any chance your Blu-ray player and/or AVR are also applying any aspect ratio adjustment? If you haven't already done so, try to set them each to pass out the "native" signal.

Thanks. It turned out both my Blu-ray player and AVR were set to always output 1080p no matter what. I changed htem both to native / pass-through, and now all display options are available in the projector settings. When I use "Auto", it seems to work properly in all circumstances (full-screen DVD, wide-screen DVD, Blu-ray). It even worked properly on a non-anamorphic DVD (I believe it just auto used "zoom"). Though I'm still a bit confused about some of the various settings, and how they work differently with different types of signals ("Zoom" and "Anamorphic Wide" seem to be the same thing), this definitely helps a lot. Thanks!

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post #3346 of 3418 Old 05-08-2014, 11:44 PM
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Need help with screen for Epson 5010. Just pick up my very first PJ. The wall is 17.5' wide, throw distance up to 18 feet. Vaulted ceiling (roughly 30 deg slope). Non-dedicated HT room with ambient light but will get dark drapes all around, dark ceiling, and dark floor. What size screen is recommended? How high to mount from the ceiling? I'm thinking monoprice screen or DIY. Preferred quality over sizes. Appreciated all the helps I can get.
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post #3347 of 3418 Old 05-09-2014, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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You can pick up an Elite fixed or pull down pretty cheap but I had hot spot issues them.
Also, their pull down non-tension screens are known to get waves/wrinkles over time.

The Carada appear to be popular for budget screens but I've found their screen material is really no different then most DIY screens at half the cost.
http://www.carada.com/DLP-Screen-Precision-Projection-Media-Screens-1-78.aspx

I recently got the VisualApex fixed screen.
No waves/wrinkles and great PQ.

http://www.visualapex.com/Projector-Screens/VisualApex-Projector-Screens.asp

2014
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post #3348 of 3418 Old 05-12-2014, 10:37 AM
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The Carada appear to be popular for budget screens but I've found their screen material is really no different then most DIY screens at half the cost.
http://www.carada.com/DLP-Screen-Precision-Projection-Media-Screens-1-78.aspx

I recently got the VisualApex fixed screen.
No waves/wrinkles and great PQ.

Do you believe the VA screens actually provide a better picture than a DIY matte white BOC screen?


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post #3349 of 3418 Old 05-12-2014, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Do you believe the VA screens actually provide a better picture than a DIY matte white BOC screen?
A DIY screen will depend on what type of material and its reflective property.
So it's best to get some samples and test them with your projector.

With the VA screen, I've had no hot spot issues or sparkles.
The aluminum frame also keeps the screen tight and wrinkle free.

2014
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post #3350 of 3418 Old 05-12-2014, 01:19 PM
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With the VA screen, I've had no hot spot issues or sparkles.
The aluminum frame also keeps the screen tight and wrinkle free.

I was just curious, since I've only had BOC screens. A totally uniform image with no hot spots or sparkles also perfectly describes BOC material, in my experience.

But building a high-quality DIY screen does take some time and effort, so it's good that there are affordable options out there for people who don't want to go the DIY route. But since I wanted a "scope" screen, VA was not an option anyway.


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post #3351 of 3418 Old 05-31-2014, 05:53 AM
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Well, I got Epson to replace my 5010 again. And they even extended my warranty 6 more months. Here I am 6 months later, and it died again. This time they are sending me a 5020. Does anyone know if the 5020 has a better track record than the 5010?

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post #3352 of 3418 Old 06-02-2014, 10:34 AM
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No idea about the 5020, but I'm on my FIFTH unit (5010) due to failure of the previous FOUR. Now the FIFTH one has failed (HDMI ports) and epson says
I'll have to send it to a repair center due to the warranty being expired. Seems you can expect about 6 months to a year of service from this product and then start crossing
your fingers, i.e. EPSON projectors=CRAP!mad.gif
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post #3353 of 3418 Old 06-03-2014, 05:05 AM
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6 months ago I asked Epson how much it would cost me to upgrade to the 5020 instead of just sending me another 5010 every few months. They told me that they couldn't do that. Their Customer Relations department did agree to extend my warranrty 6 more months though. They assured me that the new firmware upgrade would fix the problem. Now it died again. When I told them that I was concerned about the warranty running out soon, they offered me an extra bulb. I told them that the extra bulb would not help a dead projector. Then they offered me a free upgrade to the 5020, but no warranty extension. I guess it's ok though. It has been over 3 years from when I bought the first 5010. At least the 5020 takes the same bulbs. I already bought 2 extra years ago. Here's hoping that I'll get to use them.

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post #3354 of 3418 Old 06-03-2014, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Gmichael2 View Post

6 months ago I asked Epson how much it would cost me to upgrade to the 5020 instead of just sending me another 5010 every few months. They told me that they couldn't do that. Their Customer Relations department did agree to extend my warranrty 6 more months though. They assured me that the new firmware upgrade would fix the problem. Now it died again. When I told them that I was concerned about the warranty running out soon, they offered me an extra bulb. I told them that the extra bulb would not help a dead projector. Then they offered me a free upgrade to the 5020, but no warranty extension. I guess it's ok though. It has been over 3 years from when I bought the first 5010. At least the 5020 takes the same bulbs. I already bought 2 extra years ago. Here's hoping that I'll get to use them.

My 5010 is NOT like yours. It is 3 Years old now. But
IT HAS BEEN PERFECT SINCE Day-1.

I think it is good to share some positive experience
among all the negative experience, which seems to
be the ONLY thing users post.

Happy Hank with Epson 5010
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post #3355 of 3418 Old 06-03-2014, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Gmichael2 View Post

Well, I got Epson to replace my 5010 again. And they even extended my warranty 6 more months. Here I am 6 months later, and it died again. This time they are sending me a 5020. Does anyone know if the 5020 has a better track record than the 5010?
Why is your projector dying?

This really isn't the experience that most 5010 owners are having, and maybe Epson won't tell you, but someone should... You have a problem and it could possibly be yours, not theirs. Since I'm just kind of jumping in here, please excuse me if you've gone through all of this before, but I wanted to ask some questions...

A projector actually dying on a regular basis typically indicates poor voltage regulation. Brown outs or something else. Do you have a UPS in line with the projector? Is the UPS directly connected from power to the projector? Does it go through a surge suppressor? Are you in a location that gets frequent lightning storms? Is the projector ceiling mounted in a cool location? Does it have adequate airflow? Is your other equipment properly grounded? Have you tried using a different cable/connection to your main A/V equipment?


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post #3356 of 3418 Old 06-03-2014, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millerandy View Post

EPSON projectors=CRAP!mad.gif

I'm sorry to hear about what you've gone through, but if your experience was anywhere near typical, then Epson would be losing a lot of money on their projectors and would have gotten out of the business a long time ago. And this thread would be full of people complaining about their dead projectors.

I've used Epson projectors in my home theater for years. First an 8100, then a 7500UB, and now a 5010. None of them have given me any problems. And I have several family members and friends who have had Epson projectors over the years, and none of them have had any problems, other than a bulb dying here and there. (I've never had a bulb die.)

I'm sure there are some lemons out there, but it seems incredible that somebody would have three or four lemons in a row. Statistically speaking, the odds must be astronomically low. I can't comment on your specific situation and I'm not disputing it, since I wasn't there, but those are my thoughts in general.


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post #3357 of 3418 Old 06-03-2014, 06:10 AM
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I used to have a documented history of my Epson graveyard, but can't seem to put my hands on it. But from memory my first unit was purchased in Spring 2011. Among the various problems I had to deal with were:

HDMI ports failure - returned unit
Refurb unit arrived with colors shifted - returned unit
Refurb unit arrived with large color balls within the image - returned unit
Refurb unit finally worked well for awhile, died (nothing but loud fan and blinking blue standby) - returned unit just before warranty expired
The fifth unit is still hanging on the ceiling with failed HDMI ports

I probably forgot another unit somewhere, but anyway - EPSON, you're FIRED!
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post #3358 of 3418 Old 06-03-2014, 06:26 AM
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Again, I am not discounting your experience our Michael's, but I do not think it is typical.

In your case, it is probably worth noting that all of your 5010's except for the first one (assuming you did not buy a refurb/B-stock) were "refurbs", which already had a questionable past.


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post #3359 of 3418 Old 06-03-2014, 06:39 AM
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Well, knowing that they were just "refurbs" doesn't diminish the fact that for a ~$2500 purchase (brand new), I got three years worth of spotty service. My '73 Commando still looks great and runs fine at 41 years old.
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post #3360 of 3418 Old 06-06-2014, 10:18 AM
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Looking for some quick feedback: when did you notice your original bulb start dimming on your 5010? I'm at 2 years with 1,600 hours and it's minimal (but noticeable). Can you really get the 4,000 to 5,000 hours suggested by Epson?

Video: Epson 5010 / SI Black Diamond G3 1.4 / Oppo BDP-103 / Darbee Darblet
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