Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

I'm not sure what you mean by "even/same 1 1/4 " from top to bottom and on each side".

Are you saying that the tops and bottoms overscan by 1.25" and the sides overscan by 1.40" instead of 1.25" all the way around? Of course, if you zoom in a little so the sides aren't overscanning into the mask at all then you would only be 0.15" into the mask on the top and bottom. Is that so bad? Or am I misunderstanding you?

NO, on the verticle it hits the screen edge perfectly at the top and bottom . However, the sides extend 1 1/14" into the back border on each side.

Steve
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post #362 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettStah View Post

OK, question about screen size - if I get a 5010 or 6010, and mount it as far back as possible, the lens will be about 12.5 feet from the screen. My back row of seating will be on the back wall, so I figure the eyes of the people will be about 13' from the screen.

Would going with a 120" diagonal screen be too large? I'll also possibly have a closer row of seating, and I figure they'll be about 9-10' from the screen.

Based on a couple different calculators, it seems that the 5010 can fill up a 120" screen from 12.5 feet away. But I don't want it to be uncomfortable for people to actually watch stuff on it.

I got the 6010 and I am just under 13feet away and I have a 120" screen, so your good to go. Go with the 6010 over the 5010 it's well worth the 300.00 more with all the accessories you get
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post #363 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 12:43 PM
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Is Epson planning on a 6010e? I like the extra value of the 6010 but I'm also looking at the Wireless HD of the 5010e.
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post #364 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbm911 View Post

NO, on the verticle it hits the screen edge perfectly at the top and bottom . However, the sides extend 1 1/14" into the back border on each side.

I see. Someone else in this thread mentioned the same problem. Make sure overscan is turned off and you aren't using any keystone adjustment. These have been the suggestions so far.

- David
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post #365 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettStah View Post

OK, question about screen size - if I get a 5010 or 6010, and mount it as far back as possible, the lens will be about 12.5 feet from the screen. My back row of seating will be on the back wall, so I figure the eyes of the people will be about 13' from the screen.

Would going with a 120" diagonal screen be too large? I'll also possibly have a closer row of seating, and I figure they'll be about 9-10' from the screen.

Based on a couple different calculators, it seems that the 5010 can fill up a 120" screen from 12.5 feet away. But I don't want it to be uncomfortable for people to actually watch stuff on it.

My front row is at 13' and I have a 135" screen. What is "too big" is very subjective! I know that there are many people with larger screens than mine and closer viewing distances.

I have heard it recommended many times to project on your wall or a sheet for a week or so and figure out what screen size would suit you best. Good luck!

Current HT: HTPC-->Epson 5010 projector-->135" screen, BFM TLAHs x7 & THT

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post #366 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettStah View Post

My back row of seating will be on the back wall, so I figure the eyes of the people will be about 13' from the screen.

Would going with a 120" diagonal screen be too large? I'll also possibly have a closer row of seating, and I figure they'll be about 9-10' from the screen.

I'm willing to bet that the question of seating distance vs. screen size is the most asked question on AVS forum. There is no right answer. Everyone has their own preferences in home theater seating distance just as they do in how close they sit in a movie theater. Type of video also makes a difference.

I like sitting about 1.3 * screen width for movies including those in 3D. That would be about 11' from a 120" diag (104" W) screen. Art Feierman of Projector Reviews likes to watch 3D closer than 1 screen width to reduce seeing the screen borders where the 3D effect collapses. People who are used to watching TV at 3 or 4 times screen width and rarely go to movie theaters may have trouble adjusting even to 1.5 screen width (13' in your case).

You and your family are the ones who are going to watch it most of the time, right? And you will be the most critical. My recommedation is to make sure one of those seats is ideal for you for the type of video you are most likely to watch. That should be your highest priority.

- David
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post #367 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 03:15 PM
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After a lot of research I decided on a 135" screen for my viewing distance. I was willing to go to 150".

My viewing distance was decided more on SQ as it is 2/3 the length of my room.

Dave.

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I listen to 50% HT and 50% 2 channel music.
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post #368 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 04:04 PM
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Hey guys,

I got a 5010 today and out of the box my convergence is less than optimal with at least a 2 pixel shift in red. I tried using the LCD panel alignment utility and I have all four corners completely calibrated from what I can tell (the yellow square shows no signs of red, green, or blue on the inside or outside) but the white bars are still showing a red shift horizontally of 2 pixels. I went through and adjusted many of the crosspoints so tha the yellow square showed no signs of red shifted and when I used a calibration disc like WoW or AVS to check convergence, it is still off all the way around the screen.

Am I using this tool right or is it even possible to obtain near-perfect convergence using it? I am thinking I may have to send this one because even the Epson menu's are showing 2 red pixels being off after the pixel calibration.

Thanks for the help.
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post #369 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmalto View Post

Hey guys,

I got a 5010 today and out of the box my convergence is less than optimal with at least a 2 pixel shift in red. I tried using the LCD panel alignment utility and I have all four corners completely calibrated from what I can tell (the yellow square shows no signs of red, green, or blue on the inside or outside) but the white bars are still showing a red shift horizontally of 2 pixels. I went through and adjusted many of the crosspoints so tha the yellow square showed no signs of red shifted and when I used a calibration disc like WoW or AVS to check convergence, it is still off all the way around the screen.

Am I using this tool right or is it even possible to obtain near-perfect convergence using it? I am thinking I may have to send this one because even the Epson menu's are showing 2 red pixels being off after the pixel calibration.

Thanks for the help.

Are you using a lot of lens shift?
Does a good blu-ray title(something released in the last couple of years) look good?

*You will never get perfect convergence with 3panel LCD/LCOS.
Usually 1 pixel shift or less is the norm/acceptable tolerance. If you can't see the pixel shift from viewing distance, it should be OK but your call.

2014
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post #370 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

Are you using a lot of lens shift?
Does a good blu-ray title(something released in the last couple of years) look good?

*You will never get perfect convergence with 3panel LCD/LCOS.
Usually 1 pixel shift or less is the norm/acceptable tolerance. If you can't see the pixel shift from viewing distance, it should be OK but your call.

Mine is definitely off 2 pixels from what I've seen using various patterns. I am a small amount of lense shift, does this impact the convergence on these units? It does not do so on my JVC.
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post #371 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 04:35 PM
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i have a question about mouting the 5010 projector. should i mount very close to the ceiling or use the extension? I am using the extension now and still very difficult to get exact rectangle. (My mount is slight out of center) my room height around 2.7m with 100" screen. do I need to follow the projectorreview "anywhere from 22.7 inches above the top of the screen surface, all the way down to 22.7 inches below the bottom of the screen surface". I think my current with extension less than 22.7" above the top of the screen.
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post #372 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 04:58 PM
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Thanks for the info Mike. However with the unit coming with a standard 3.5 yr warranty here in Australia I don't want to give epson any excuse to void it.
Will keep copy of your procedure so can use once warranty period has lapsed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Divedoc View Post

Hello again...

Now I have tried the thing with the pixel-alignment. It works as follows:

1. Switch on the PJ

2. Press and hold the Menu-Button for 8 sec.

3. Press the ESC-Button twice


Michael

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post #373 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by con219 View Post

Thanks for the info Mike. However with the unit coming with a standard 3.5 yr warranty here in Australia I don't want to give epson any excuse to void it.
Will keep copy of your procedure so can use once warranty period has lapsed.

I'm in the same boat as you con219 with the 3.5 years warranty.

However I don't think I can keep my finger still for this long.

Is it possible to go into the hidden menu and put back original settings so Epson couldn't tell you've been there ?
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post #374 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmalto View Post

Mine is definitely off 2 pixels from what I've seen using various patterns. I am a small amount of lense shift, does this impact the convergence on these units? It does not do so on my JVC.

Extreme lens shift may cause chromatic abrasion.
2 pixels off is to much. Get a replacement.

Btw: if you search the jvc rs45 thread, people have claimed/seen convergence look worse when a good amount of lens shift is used.

2014
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post #375 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 07:55 PM
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Wondering if any owners have experience with a long HDMI run and the 5010?
I have a Monoprice 35 foot 22AWG Standard HDMI running to my 8350.
There are also an Onkyo 709 and an HDMI switch in the mix.
I have no issues with this setup at all. Picture is rock solid.
From what I understand you need a High-Speed HDMI cable for 3D.
Have not been able to find a 35 foot High-Speed HDMI cables other than custom made.
Longest I can find is only 25 foot. Too short for my situation.
Monoprice states my 4X2 HDMI switch is 3D capable. I could go right from the 709 though. Two HDMI outputs.
Still I wonder if what I have will work.
What are you guys using for long HDMI runs for 3D?
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post #376 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 09:23 PM
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Still a mystery what the vp chip in the epsons is as far as I know ? What crossed my mind as I was almost contracted to a cary 11v [long story] is its an iteration of a faroudja chip it has which coincidentally has PinP capabilities ;not to mention is a 10bit device .

Whats the concensus - am I off the track ;did epson have a history using faroudja before hqv ? Rings a bell somehow.

http://www.st.com/internet/imag_vide...uct/217378.jsp
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post #377 of 3422 Old 12-31-2011, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddieb187 View Post

Wondering if any owners have experience with a long HDMI run and the 5010?
I have a Monoprice 35 foot 22AWG Standard HDMI running to my 8350.
There are also an Onkyo 709 and an HDMI switch in the mix.
I have no issues with this setup at all. Picture is rock solid.
From what I understand you need a High-Speed HDMI cable for 3D.
Have not been able to find a 35 foot High-Speed HDMI cables other than custom made.
Longest I can find is only 25 foot. Too short for my situation.
Monoprice states my 4X2 HDMI switch is 3D capable. I could go right from the 709 though. Two HDMI outputs.
Still I wonder if what I have will work.
What are you guys using for long HDMI runs for 3D?

I am using the same monoprice hdmi you are using at 35 ft. Also using theirs for my blu ray and directtv to receiver. No problems with 3d at all.
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post #378 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 03:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curiousmurf View Post

I'm in the same boat as you con219 with the 3.5 years warranty.

However I don't think I can keep my finger still for this long.

Is it possible to go into the hidden menu and put back original settings so Epson couldn't tell you've been there ?

I think the OP on this mentioned something about rolling back the feature back to factory however I am not interested and if notice any pixel shift it will be a warranty job.
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post #379 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddieb187 View Post

Wondering if any owners have experience with a long HDMI run and the 5010?
I have a Monoprice 35 foot 22AWG Standard HDMI running to my 8350.
There are also an Onkyo 709 and an HDMI switch in the mix.
I have no issues with this setup at all. Picture is rock solid.
From what I understand you need a High-Speed HDMI cable for 3D.
Have not been able to find a 35 foot High-Speed HDMI cables other than custom made.
Longest I can find is only 25 foot. Too short for my situation.
Monoprice states my 4X2 HDMI switch is 3D capable. I could go right from the 709 though. Two HDMI outputs.
Still I wonder if what I have will work.
What are you guys using for long HDMI runs for 3D?

I am running a 35ft Kanto cable I got from Costco no problems at all, 3d works fine . The cable is 3 years old and was a 1.3 cable, I think a lot of this is just marketing trying to get you to buy new cables.
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post #380 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 09:23 AM
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100% of the time, Hubble 3D has an image for a fraction of a second and then 2-3 seconds of all black screen and then the flicker again. This will continue as long as I allow it. It also does this on other 3D dvd's, but not 100% of the time.

If I switch from HDMI 1 input on the 6010 to HDMI 2 and then back to HDMI 1 it corrects the problem.

Just wondering if this has happened to anyone else and if there is a solution??

Thanks and Happy New Year

"Savor the Moment"
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post #381 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

I see. Someone else in this thread mentioned the same problem. Make sure overscan is turned off and you aren't using any keystone adjustment. These have been the suggestions so far.

Confirmed no Keystone, and turned off overscan. Same issue, pix extends into side borders even though top and bottom are level with screen edge.

Any ideas?

Steve
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post #382 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hhord2 View Post

100% of the time, Hubble 3D has an image for a fraction of a second and then 2-3 seconds of all black screen and then the flicker again. This will continue as long as I allow it. It also does this on other 3D dvd's, but not 100% of the time.

If I switch from HDMI 1 input on the 6010 to HDMI 2 and then back to HDMI 1 it corrects the problem.

Just wondering if this has happened to anyone else and if there is a solution??

Thanks and Happy New Year

Try disconnecting all HDMI cables and reconnect.
If it still occurs, you may have a weak/bad cable.

2014
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post #383 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 10:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddieb187 View Post

Wondering if any owners have experience with a long HDMI run and the 5010?
I have a Monoprice 35 foot 22AWG Standard HDMI running to my 8350.
There are also an Onkyo 709 and an HDMI switch in the mix.
I have no issues with this setup at all. Picture is rock solid.
From what I understand you need a High-Speed HDMI cable for 3D.
Have not been able to find a 35 foot High-Speed HDMI cables other than custom made.
Longest I can find is only 25 foot. Too short for my situation.
Monoprice states my 4X2 HDMI switch is 3D capable. I could go right from the 709 though. Two HDMI outputs.
Still I wonder if what I have will work.
What are you guys using for long HDMI runs for 3D?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...3&postcount=92

2014
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post #384 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 10:23 AM
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I just installed this on a 50' run.

http://www.calradstore.com/40-1072m.html

I tried a monoprice cable first but no 3d
then 2 other brand cables the claimed 1.4
One cable worked the second one failed after a couple of days.
I picked up this balun locally

I works well.
My only complaint is the wall wart goes on the receiver end- projector end
Do a Google search . It can be purchased for less than half of the msrp
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post #385 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbm911 View Post

Confirmed no Keystone, and turned off overscan. Same issue, pix extends into side borders even though top and bottom are level with screen edge. Any ideas?

What image are you projecting? If it's a movie that's 1.85:1 it's normal it won't fit your 16:9 (1.78:1) screen exactly. You would normally watch a 1.85:1 movie with the picture fitting the screen left to right, and small black bars at top and bottom.

If this is the reason, then turning ON overscan will make the picture fit, but at the cost of losing a bit of the image at the sides (and a slight reduction in picture quality).
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post #386 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbm911 View Post

Confirmed no Keystone, and turned off overscan. Same issue, pix extends into side borders even though top and bottom are level with screen edge.

Any ideas?

Using the 5010's "Pattern", I currently have about 0.5" overscan into my screen's mask on the sides and a little over 0.25" on the top and bottom. This is on a Da-Lite High Power 133" 16:9 screen. Overscan is off. However, I experimented with overscan and it has no effect on the 5010's pattern, just on actual source material.

When I view video and set the overscan to off, overscan varies and sometimes the top and bottom doesn't go into the mask. Therefore, I'm wondering if you used the 5010's adjustment pattern (the one you get when you hit "Pattern" on the remote) for your evaluation? I suggest that is probably the way to do it. Otherwise the amount of underscan/overscan depends on the source device and video material.

The other possibility, I suppose, is that one of our screens isn't exactly 16:9. Seems unlikely that a screen company would mess that up, though.

- David
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post #387 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

Using the 5010's "Pattern", I currently have about 0.5" overscan into my screen's mask on the sides and a little over 0.25" on the top and bottom. This is on a Da-Lite High Power 133" 16:9 screen. Overscan is off. However, I experimented with overscan and it has no effect on the 5010's pattern, just on actual source material.

When I view video and set the overscan to off, overscan varies and sometimes the top and bottom doesn't go into the mask. Therefore, I'm wondering if you used the 5010's adjustment pattern (the one you get when you hit "Pattern" on the remote) for your evaluation? I suggest that is probably the way to do it. Otherwise the amount of underscan/overscan depends on the source device and video material.

The other possibility, I suppose, is that one of our screens isn't exactly 16:9. Seems unlikely that a screen company would mess that up, though.

This may sound silly but if you use the zoom on the projector to make the pic a little smaller would that not fix it?

Anthem Statement D2v3D, Paradigm Sub 2, Paradigm S8s with C5, Anthem Statement M1 Amps, 174" AT Scope Screen, Epson 6010 3D Projector
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post #388 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 06:03 PM
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I'm trying to figure out where I'm going to mount this baby and how big of a screen to order (I've never purchased a projector before). I'm going to mount it on a floating shelf on the back wall facing the screen. If I mount the PJ directly facing the screen (no lens shift) I'm about 13' away. My question is if I decide to slide the shelf along the wall horizontally would that increase the potential size of the image, or is the distance from lens to screen used in the online calculators always the distance from the lens to the wall regardless of the actual distance from the lens to the center of the image?
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post #389 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbm911 View Post

I just installed the 5010 (106" screen, PJ mounted appox 11.5 feet (where old one was)). Got the picture lined up on screen even and fully hitting the top and the bottom of the screen. I was able to line it up the sides perfectly straight with no keystone. However, the picture extends 1.4 inches over the screen on each side (its into the black border, but even/same 1 1/4 " from top to bottom and on each side).

How do I adjust the sides in without losing the height or screwing up the straight sides?


Thanks

My 6010 is the same way about 1.5" overscan on the left and right sides
The top an bottom are flush to the top edge and the bottom edge.
The is with the Epson generated pattern.
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post #390 of 3422 Old 01-01-2012, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruceko View Post

My 6010 is the same way about 1.5" overscan on the left and right sides
The top an bottom are flush to the top edge and the bottom edge.
The is with the Epson generated pattern.

I'm trying to think what else might be different between units. My projector is located about 22.5' away from the screen near the far telephoto end of the lens. It is on a shelf close to the center of the screen vertically and exact center horizontally. I'm wondering if a significantly different vertical adjustment that is well off-center might cause the Epson's optics to compress the image vertically. The fact that you are using the generated pattern rules out anything unusual in your source device or connection.

Did you have a 16:9 projector prior to the 6010 with the same screen? If so, I assume it didn't have this issue.

Of course you can just zoom in a little and leave vertical gaps between the image and the mask but then it doesn't look as nice, especially when there is some ambient light.

- David
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Epson 5010 Powerlite Home Cinema 3d Front Projector , Epson Powerlite Pro Cinema 6010 Projector , Projectors , Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 8350 , Cpu Fan

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