Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 07:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hhord2 View Post

The red pixels were over two pixels off on my 6010 and it was easy to correct.

Moving pixels over that much may have adverse PQ effects.
You may or may not notice them.
That is why I personally would not accept aynthing 1 pxiel or less off for convergence correction/tolerance.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...76&postcount=8

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post #452 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 07:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ricwhite View Post

Does the projector have to be EXACTLY centered to eliminate blurring or can there be SOME vertical shift and still be okay? I have my projectors on a rack in the back and it's "close" to being in the center but might need some slight vertical shift.

An easy test is to download the AVS calibration disc and display the Convergence pattern with the small squares with a single dot in the middle.
This pattern will expose any issues with the lens deforming/blooming/blurring the picture.
Just look at each dot within each square around the screen. The dot should be a dot. Not a dot with a swoosh(like the Nike symbol).

*The pattern is located under the top menu option Pattern then select Convergence than FF to the 2nd picture.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

Quote:
Originally Posted by ubob800 View Post

Glad to hear you were able to confirm it is the lens shift, you saved me quite a bit of work! If you get that pipe please post what (if any) relief it provides. My setup prevents me from mounting the unit any lower, but I suppose I could move my screen up a few inches instead.

Just to close the loop on your earlier post, I also noticed that my vertical lines are sharp and only the horizontal lines have blooming. Seems all three primary colors are about equally affected, and all are worse towards the bottom of the screen (greatest angle from the centerline).

I'm going to fire up the PJ tomorrow to see if the effect is uniform across the screen or if it impacts one area more than another (using white dots). Though it's a bit off topic, I have noticed that I cannot seem to get the lower right part of my screen into focus no matter how much I adjust the ring. Now I'm wondering if that's where I'll see the most dramatic evidence of this effect.

One question I have though...when you did ran your test w/o lens shift, how were the corners? I'm wondering if there was some slight blooming as you get away from the center of the screen even with shift disabled.

I tried to get the pipe lastnight but they guys at Home Depot were clueless on making me one.

So I install my custom ceiling shelf mount I had for my previous projector. This allows me to install the projector right side up.
Even though the projector is at the same height, when it's right side up, the amount of lens shift appears to be minimal compared to when it's upside down(ceiling mounted).

Anyway, my lens shift is now almost close to centered & the blooming/blurring is 99% gone.
I still have it in about 1x1 corner on the bottom right and about 1 foot of the left side.
Overall, the focus/sharpness looks a lot better.

I believe what we may have stumbled upon is that when the projector is ceiling mounted(upside down) and more than a few clicks of vertical lens shift is applied, there doesn't appear to be any chromatic aberration but the lens appears to be distorting some parts of the picture. Not sure if there is anything Epson can do about this since it's seems to be an issue with the lens they used.

I would not doubt that if other projectors, of not all that use a lot of vertical lens shift may have this issue.

As I mentioned above, people need to display the AVS Convergence pattern with the small squares with the single dot or something simular to truly see the real effect of what vertical lens shift may be doing to their PQ.

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post #453 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 07:43 AM
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Plasma - I took your advice and called Epson for a replacement. They do not have any 5010's in stock but said they would ship me a brand new one once they get more in but I am not holding my breath it will be new I also removed all of my lense shift (H/V) and it made no difference on the number of pixels that were off.
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post #454 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 08:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmalto View Post

Plasma - I took your advice and called Epson for a replacement. They do not have any 5010's in stock but said they would ship me a brand new one once they get more in but I am not holding my breath it will be new I also removed all of my lense shift (H/V) and it made no difference on the number of pixels that were off.

As I mentioned above, the lens shift doesn't appear to be causing any chromatic aberration so I would suspect that pixel convergence would probably not change with lens shift.

Glad Epson is hooking you up with a replacement but since you are within 30 days, I would hope/assume they will send you a new unit.

*Did you try working with your vendor who you purchased the projector from for them to get you a replacement ASAP?

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post #455 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 08:28 AM
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Does Epson have an anamorphic lens kit for the 6010? Anyone know what the part number and MSRP is? Is it just a Panamorph A480SYS (UH480 lens plus ATH1 sled)?


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post #456 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 08:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ Jackals View Post

Does Epson have an anamorphic lens kit for the 6010? Anyone know what the part number and MSRP is? Is it just a Panamorph A480SYS (UH480 lens plus ATH1 sled)?

Page 9 of the manual only states this:
Fixed Anamorphic Lens Kit: ELPALK3

http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p...plpc6010ug.pdf

Probably best to ask the dealer in which you will purchase the 6010 to get more details.

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post #457 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

Page 9 of the manual only states this:
Fixed Anamorphic Lens Kit: ELPALK3

http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/p...plpc6010ug.pdf

Probably best to ask the dealer in which you will purchase the 6010 to get more details.

Perfect! Thanks. I've asked 2 dealers but neither had much info for me. Googling ELPALK3 does reveal much either (including search on Epson's US site). Is anyone here using this lens or are they purchasing a different lens on their own?


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post #458 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

Moving pixels over that much may have adverse PQ effects.
You may or may not notice them.
That is why I personally would not accept aynthing 1 pxiel or less off for convergence correction/tolerance.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...76&postcount=8

I agree with Mark Haflich and Jason Turk's comments on electronic partial pixel adjustments (which is all that message discusses). However, I'm not convinced that correcting 2 or 3 pixels results in greater picture degradation than correcting 1 pixel. In fact, if you believe Mark and Jason's comments (and I do), then correcting 1/2 pixel electronically is worse than correcting in whole pixel increments (such as 2 or 3 pixels).

By thw way, how do you know that a factory fresh projector with little or no visible convergence hasn't already been corrected electronically at the factory?

- David
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post #459 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 11:20 AM
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Just to update, the monoprice manual HDMI switch, hds-201 I had, did pass 1080p from my panasonic bluray player with no issues. Soon as I get my 3d player connected I'll report back if it works as well for 3D.

Got the 6010 installed last night, still tweaking but a big improvement over my old Sony HS20, so I'm very pleased. Great blacks and very bright. My red convergence was off a little, maybe 1 pixel. Ceiling mount, upside down, app. 15' throw to a 126" screen.
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post #460 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnabq View Post

Just to update, the monoprice manual HDMI switch, hds-201 I had, did pass 1080p from my panasonic bluray player with no issues. Soon as I get my 3d player connected I'll report back if it works as well for 3D.

Got the 6010 installed last night, still tweaking but a big improvement over my old Sony HS20, so I'm very pleased. Great blacks and very bright. My red convergence was off a little, maybe 1 pixel. Ceiling mount, upside down, app. 15' throw to a 126" screen.

What gain screen do you have ?

And I guess as a side note...would most of you recommend a 1.3 gain or something like this so you can run in eco at all times, other than brightly lite sports moments, i.e. superbowl party?

Thanks gang!


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post #461 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

I agree with Mark Haflich and Jason Turk's comments on electronic partial pixel adjustments (which is all that message discusses). However, I'm not convinced that correcting 2 or 3 pixels results in greater picture degradation than correcting 1 pixel. In fact, if you believe Mark and Jason's comments (and I do), then correcting 1/2 pixel electronically is worse than correcting in whole pixel increments (such as 2 or 3 pixels).

By thw way, how do you know that a factory fresh projector with little or no visible convergence hasn't already been corrected electronically at the factory?

True but do you think Epson really QC's their projector after it leaves the boat from China?
I doubt they do much after assembly. Even the JVC series have some questionable QC these days with what new owners have reported.

At these prices, I believe they take the risk and believe their assembly method tolerance is enough to satify 90% of the market and the other 10% may or may not even care or notice the issues.

We at AVS are probably the 1% that notice these type of issues.

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post #462 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

I agree with Mark Haflich and Jason Turk's comments on electronic partial pixel adjustments (which is all that message discusses). However, I'm not convinced that correcting 2 or 3 pixels results in greater picture degradation than correcting 1 pixel. In fact, if you believe Mark and Jason's comments (and I do), then correcting 1/2 pixel electronically is worse than correcting in whole pixel increments (such as 2 or 3 pixels).

By thw way, how do you know that a factory fresh projector with little or no visible convergence hasn't already been corrected electronically at the factory?

I also agree that correcting 2 or 3 pixels should not be any worse than adjusting only 1 pixel. The only negative effect of making such a correction is that you do lose the ability to address some edge pixels for the color you are adjusting.

For example, if you adjust your red 3 pixels to the left, the addressable resolution of the red panel becomes 1917x1080. The projector no longer displays the pixels assigned to column 0,1, or 2 (at least as far as I've been able to determine).

How much you're willing to lose is a personal judgement call, but consider the worst case scenario (uniform 3-pixel shift along each axis):

Pixel Loss = [1 - (1917 x 1077) / (1920 x 1080)] x 100% = .43%

That doesn't seem like much of a loss to me. Especially when considering that the edges are likely to be the least-watched portion of the screen.
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post #463 of 3427 Old 01-06-2012, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toofast68 View Post

What gain screen do you have ?

And I guess as a side note...would most of you recommend a 1.3 gain or something like this so you can run in eco at all times, other than brightly lite sports moments, i.e. superbowl party?

Thanks gang!

I'm using a Vutec BriteWhite 1.3 gain and even in the Living Room setting with eco mode on, its nice and bright and with very little noise.
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post #464 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by lxdengar View Post

studlygoorite, do you think you could also provide a lag test on the 6010? I'm curious to see if they made any changes to the lag versus the 5010.

Not for sure if the lag issue reached a conclusion yet for most, but I would add I played Guitar Hero on a PS3 last night for several minutes including different songs and had ZERO problems. Projector was straight out of the box and I didn't even need to calibrate the guitar - it was that spot on.
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post #465 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jstover74 View Post

Not for sure if the lag issue reached a conclusion yet for most, but I would add I played Guitar Hero on a PS3 last night for several minutes including different songs and had ZERO problems. Projector was straight out of the box and I didn't even need to calibrate the guitar - it was that spot on.

I thought for a while there that something was up as my controls felt a bit sluggish in Call Of Duty and Battlefield 3, but then found it was because I had not played in a while because after a couple days of getting back into it I am smoking bitches once again. Not a real test but good enough for me.

John

Anthem Statement D2v3D, Paradigm Sub 2, Paradigm S8s with C5, Anthem Statement M1 Amps, 174" AT Scope Screen, Epson 6010 3D Projector
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post #466 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

An easy test is to download the AVS calibration disc and display the Convergence pattern with the small squares with a single dot in the middle.
This pattern will expose any issues with the lens deforming/blooming/blurring the picture.
Just look at each dot within each square around the screen. The dot should be a dot. Not a dot with a swoosh(like the Nike symbol).

*The pattern is located under the top menu option Pattern then select Convergence than FF to the 2nd picture.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496



I tried to get the pipe lastnight but they guys at Home Depot were clueless on making me one.

So I install my custom ceiling shelf mount I had for my previous projector. This allows me to install the projector right side up.
Even though the projector is at the same height, when it's right side up, the amount of lens shift appears to be minimal compared to when it's upside down(ceiling mounted).

Anyway, my lens shift is now almost close to centered & the blooming/blurring is 99% gone.
I still have it in about 1x1 corner on the bottom right and about 1 foot of the left side.
Overall, the focus/sharpness looks a lot better.

I believe what we may have stumbled upon is that when the projector is ceiling mounted(upside down) and more than a few clicks of vertical lens shift is applied, there doesn't appear to be any chromatic aberration but the lens appears to be distorting some parts of the picture. Not sure if there is anything Epson can do about this since it's seems to be an issue with the lens they used.

I would not doubt that if other projectors, of not all that use a lot of vertical lens shift may have this issue.

As I mentioned above, people need to display the AVS Convergence pattern with the small squares with the single dot or something similar to truly see the real effect of what vertical lens shift may be doing to their PQ.


I actually seen an X70/RS55 at Magnolia HiFi last night and confirmed this blooming/blurring issue is present on this projector as well.
The sales guy was kind enough to allow me to load the AVS calibration disc and you could see the blooming/distortion on the dots.
The distortion was mainly on the left & right sides of the screen. The middle was pretty much good.
The projector was ceiling mounted about 6 inches above the screen top and about 16 feet away from the screen.
The image was projected on a 127" Stewart screen. Can't recall the gain.



While I was there, I did some unscientific comparisons myself with an 8700UB they had setup.
Some ambient light in the back of the room but not on the screen itself.
The 8700 was about 20 feet from the screen and about a foot above the top of the screen.
It also had the blooming/blurring issue about equal to the X70.



1. The X70 black levels were indeed blacker but not a night and day difference where I was saying wow.
The contrast measurements reported show that the X70 is substantially more than the 8700UB(5010 equivalent contrast) but to the eye, it seems contrast increases is not seen in a linear fashion when black levels hit a certain point.
Maybe the difference/ratings are logarithmic after you hit a certain point of contrast?


2. The PQ/color between the 2 were a toss up probably due to that they were both using OOTB modes with little or no calibration.

3. The convergence between the two were a toss up but within .5-1 pixels.
The X70 was off on the green on the left side (green strip on outer edge) about 1 pixel but near the center was almost dead on.
The 8700UB was off about .5 on red and almost a full pixel off on blue on the left edge.

I looked at the convergence using the AVS Convergence pattern & some all white patterns that are on the disc.

I was surprise that a $6000 projector would have convergence & blooming/blurring issue equal to a $2600 projector.

I guess when ever possible, try not to use to much lens shift.

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post #467 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 10:39 AM
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I am hoping someone can help me with this issue. I recently purchased a 6010 and this is my first projector. The image is not rectangular, when I project on the wall it is 38.75" vertically on the right side and 38.0" on the left side. I have done a projector reset, keystone is 0 and I am not doing any horizontal lens shift or overscan. The top edge of the image is perfect in a 90 degree angle on both sides. The projector is mounted and leveled. Is this a projector defect I need to contact epson about or is there some adjustment I have overlooked.

Thanks,
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post #468 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by istores View Post

I am hoping someone can help me with this issue. I recently purchased a 6010 and this is my first projector. The image is not rectangular, when I project on the wall it is 38.75" vertically on the right side and 38.0" on the left side. I have done a projector reset, keystone is 0 and I am not doing any horizontal lens shift or overscan. The top edge of the image is perfect in a 90 degree angle on both sides. The projector is mounted and leveled. Is this a projector defect I need to contact epson about or is there some adjustment I have overlooked.

Thanks,

Wall/screen not completely flat/square?
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post #469 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by istores View Post

I am hoping someone can help me with this issue. I recently purchased a 6010 and this is my first projector. The image is not rectangular, when I project on the wall it is 38.75" vertically on the right side and 38.0" on the left side. I have done a projector reset, keystone is 0 and I am not doing any horizontal lens shift or overscan. The top edge of the image is perfect in a 90 degree angle on both sides. The projector is mounted and leveled. Is this a projector defect I need to contact epson about or is there some adjustment I have overlooked.

Thanks,

Your projector is not square to the screen.
Rotate your projector to the opposite direction from the side that is larger. then use the horizontal shift to center the picture.
It may not take much movement to adjust it
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post #470 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 01:29 PM
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I would like to find out if it will be ideal to mount this from ceiling or on a tray from the wall (something like this). I remember reading somewhere that the fan noise will be lesser if 5010/6010 is not mounted upside down from the ceiling (unfortunately, I don't have the source link). My Media room is 100% light controlled. Suggestions on Screen gain is also welcome. Will be watching TV & Movies mostly.

Can few of the 6010 owners pm me with their PJ price and source (I am in US)? I am interested in getting one in the next few weeks.
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post #471 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

True but do you think Epson really QC's their projector after it leaves the boat from China?
I doubt they do much after assembly. Even the JVC series have some questionable QC these days with what new owners have reported.

At these prices, I believe they take the risk and believe their assembly method tolerance is enough to satify 90% of the market and the other 10% may or may not even care or notice the issues.

We at AVS are probably the 1% that notice these type of issues.

does anyone one know a link for step by step instructions on pixel alignment? I see the little yellow squares in each corner but when i go to adjust Red i see nothing moving? any help would be appreciated
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post #472 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 02:41 PM
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That did it, Thanks
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post #473 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post


1. The X70 black levels were indeed blacker but not a night and day difference where I was saying wow.
The contrast measurements reported show that the X70 is substantially more than the 8700UB(5010 equivalent contrast) but to the eye, it seems contrast increases is not seen in a linear fashion when black levels hit a certain point.
Maybe the difference/ratings are logarithmic after you hit a certain point of contrast?

To some extent, yes, there is obviously a lot more difference between 10,000:1 Native and 1,000:1, then even 60,000:1 and 10,000:1, but where the JVC excels is in certain types of scenes that give IRIS's problems. It's not so much that the blacks will look a lot darker, but it's also that the whites look better while the blacks are still dark. You would need to split-screen certain content.

The 8700ub is no slouch in black levels and is the best bang-for-buck projector out there. As far as sharpness goes, the 8700ub's I've personally seen can't quite match the sharpness of my RS-45 which is only 0.3 pixels off after warmup, but the difference isn't that noticeable in most video content (a little in HD documentary type stuff). The JVC is very sensitive to lens shift and warm-up time and focus as to how it is affected by convergence, more than the Epsons, but it's mostly only because the Epson's usually start of with slightly more inaccurate convergence. The correction feature on the 5010 should help this some, and the 5010 I saw was sharper than the 8700ub's I've seen (so good news there).

IMO, most JVC's are exceedingly sharp this year, I've discussed it with a few people that have seen multiple JVC's, only a handful even needed a pixel correection, sounds like you saw one that did. The JVC RS-45 allows 1-pixel correction, the RS-55 allows 1-pixel and sub-pixel correction.

My JVC is off less than 0.5 pixels across the entire screen at its optimal mounting position. In some areas it is off 0.1 pixels, in others it is off 0.3 pixels. I can't speak to every JVC, since I have one with very good convergence, but if you get lucky like I did (and I think with the JVC you're more likely to get lucky on convergence), then you'll get an image as sharp as many DLP's for the most part.

The 8700ub is a great projector though, and for the price you can't go wrong.

The main reason to get the 5010 over the JVC is 3D brightness, less ghosting. The JVC has a slightly smoother look to it and a more refined image for film, but it depends on what you watch. The Epson has better FI than the JVC, and since it is brighter in dynamic mode, the Epson is more versatile and again much better at 3D. If you play a reference level movie where the camera men are very skilled (like Tree of Life, maybe even Star Wars Revenge of the Sith, LOTR, etc..), those are the types of movies that the JVC does really well at.



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post #474 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

So I install my custom ceiling shelf mount I had for my previous projector. This allows me to install the projector right side up.
Even though the projector is at the same height, when it's right side up, the amount of lens shift appears to be minimal compared to when it's upside down(ceiling mounted).

Anyway, my lens shift is now almost close to centered & the blooming/blurring is 99% gone.
I still have it in about 1x1 corner on the bottom right and about 1 foot of the left side.
Overall, the focus/sharpness looks a lot better.

I'm currently using an inverted ceiling mount but I noticed last night that when I click the v-shift knob into the center position, it appears that the image is cast more towards the feet of the projector (upwards in my configuration), as if the vertical midpoint is not level with the plane of the PJ but above it. I'm thinking I should move to a ceiling mounted shelf too now so that I can "un-invert" the PJ and then use just a few clicks of lens shift as you did.

So just to confirm, did you also observe that when v-shift is not used that the projector has a tendency to cast the image more towards its feet? That is what I gather since it sounds like you don't need to shift it downwards on your shelf mount nearly as much as you shifted it upwards when it was inverted...
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post #475 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1969 View Post

does anyone one know a link for step by step instructions on pixel alignment? I see the little yellow squares in each corner but when i go to adjust Red i see nothing moving? any help would be appreciated

My projector is mounted upside down in front/ceiling mode, I think it's called, causing the lcd alignment procedure to operate kinda backwards from what I've seen. If the yellow square is in the upper left, you'll actually be adjusting the upper right area of the screen. It seems that the adjustments in that menu are affecting the opposite side, corresponding intersection, or square(s).

Make your adjustments while observing the opposite side of the screen, corresponding intersection/square, and see if you notice any movement.

I did find the adjustments to the lens shift to be a little difficult. As it was mentioned, one adjustment wheel movement affects and does slightly move the whole lens a bit. That made me feel like it was kinda cheaply done with what felt like to much play in the mechanism.

A side note, I need to run the projector in high altitude mode and that the fan noise in (eco mode), is still very quiet from 4' above me. I don't think anyone needing to use that feature will really notice much of a difference.
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post #476 of 3427 Old 01-07-2012, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnabq View Post

My projector is mounted upside down in front/ceiling mode, I think it's called, causing the lcd alignment procedure to operate kinda backwards from what I've seen. If the yellow square is in the upper left, you'll actually be adjusting the upper right area of the screen. It seems that the adjustments in that menu are affecting the opposite side, corresponding intersection, or square(s).

Make your adjustments while observing the opposite side of the screen, corresponding intersection/square, and see if you notice any movement.

I did find the adjustments to the lens shift to be a little difficult. As it was mentioned, one adjustment wheel movement affects and does slightly move the whole lens a bit. That made me feel like it was kinda cheaply done with what felt like to much play in the mechanism.

A side note, I need to run the projector in high altitude mode and that the fan noise in (eco mode), is still very quiet from 4' above me. I don't think anyone needing to use that feature will really notice much of a difference.

thanks ill check it out again tomorrow.
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post #477 of 3427 Old 01-08-2012, 05:39 AM
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Dave, if you have a ceiling mount, the adjustments will be on the opposite side of the screen. In other words, when the square is in the upper left corner, the changes will be actually made in the upper right corner, and so on and so forth (always the opposite side).

It gets a little trickier when you are doing the cross hair adjustments, e.g. if you move the square to the second cross hair from the left side of the screen in row two, your adjustments will be to the second cross hair from the right side of the screen in row two (it is always on the opposite side). Sounds a bit complicated, but once you start, it is actually pretty simple.

I was over two pixels off in red on various portions of the screen and now it is just about perfect on all portions of the screen. Note: When I made these adjustments, I did not notice a picture degradation as some folks have suggested.

I hope this helps you!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1969 View Post

does anyone one know a link for step by step instructions on pixel alignment? I see the little yellow squares in each corner but when i go to adjust Red i see nothing moving? any help would be appreciated


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post #478 of 3427 Old 01-08-2012, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by hhord2 View Post

Dave, if you have a ceiling mount, the adjustments will be on the opposite side of the screen. In other words, when the square is in the upper left corner, the changes will be actually made in the upper right corner, and so on and so forth (always the opposite side).

It gets a little trickier when you are doing the cross hair adjustments, e.g. if you move the square to the second cross hair from the left side of the screen in row two, your adjustments will be to the second cross hair from the right side of the screen in row two (it is always on the opposite side). Sounds a bit complicated, but once you start, it is actually pretty simple.

I was over two pixels off in red on various portions of the screen and now it is just about perfect on all portions of the screen. Note: When I made these adjustments, I did not notice a picture degradation as some folks have suggested.

I hope this helps you!!


Thanks so much Hord. I just went and tried it again. Alignment was spot on. Either im not a pro or got lucky as hell. Staring at that pattern wreaks havic on the eyeballs
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post #479 of 3427 Old 01-08-2012, 08:49 AM
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Anyone know a source that has the external IR emitter for a 5010 in stock?

Thanks!

BTW, just hooked up my 5010 to a five year old 35' Monoprice HDMI cable and it passed the 3D signal just fine! Going from a PS3 to a Denon 4311 to the projector.

Bob


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post #480 of 3427 Old 01-08-2012, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ubob800 View Post


So just to confirm, did you also observe that when v-shift is not used that the projector has a tendency to cast the image more towards its feet? That is what I gather since it sounds like you don't need to shift it downwards on your shelf mount nearly as much as you shifted it upwards when it was inverted...

Yes.
Also, it seems to take less shift when shelf mount so the blooming/blurring is minimized.

I have also now noticed that since the blooming/blurring is now minimized, the PQ is better focused and sharper.

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