Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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post #901 of 3468 Old 02-02-2012, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkirangi View Post

Okay. I dont have any 3d content as yet to check out the 3d on the projector. But I did try out the 2D to 3D conversion. What I noted was that the image instead of popping out, it seemed to pop in. Meaning it had little depth, and that depth was inward instead of being outward. Did anyone else notice that?

That is what you get with 3D conversion. Really amazing it can do that if you think about it. Processing several scenes of 2 million pixels each and deciding what is in the background more. Pop out effects require more information than can be gleaned from such a process though.

Go buy Kung Fu Panda 2
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post #902 of 3468 Old 02-02-2012, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by wnielsenbb View Post

That is what you get with 3D conversion. Really amazing it can do that if you think about it. Processing several scenes of 2 million pixels each and deciding what is in the background more. Pop out effects require more information than can be gleaned from such a process though.

Go buy Kung Fu Panda 2

Okay Cool. Thanks. I will check out KFP2.
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post #903 of 3468 Old 02-08-2012, 11:30 AM
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Just got my 5010 everthing looks good. As far as the 3D its great. When I got to Directv 3D channels 103-107 in the guide and select one it plays fine. But when I try & change channels it seams to lock on to it and takes repeated clicks on the remote to change. Then when its back to non 3D channels its ok.

I've tried my Harmony One and the Directv remote they both act the same. Am I missig something here? Someone in the other thread mentioned the samething about their 3010 having the same problem but I did'nt see any resolution.

mark
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post #904 of 3468 Old 02-08-2012, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparky7 View Post

When I got to Directv 3D channels 103-107 in the guide and select one it plays fine. But when I try & change channels it seams to lock on to it and takes repeated clicks on the remote to change.

I don't have DirecTV but I'm curious if you tried taking the 5010 3D mode out of auto and put it in the side-by-side mode?

- David
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post #905 of 3468 Old 02-08-2012, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

I don't have DirecTV but I'm curious if you tried taking the 5010 3D mode out of auto and put it in the side-by-side mode?

Don't know for sure but I don't think Directv is side by side. I could try tonight. I was thinking when I wrote the original post if on the Directv box setting the VIDEO-NATIVE to ON/OFF makes any difference?

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edit: Just looked it up your right its side by side
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post #906 of 3468 Old 02-08-2012, 01:07 PM
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Sparky: A quick search brought up this AVSForum post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post19929026

- David
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post #907 of 3468 Old 02-08-2012, 01:27 PM
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Also, due to the glasses being IR just like your remotes you will have to push buttons on the remove a few extra times when in 3D mode.
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post #908 of 3468 Old 02-08-2012, 01:40 PM
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^ ^ ^ ^
Thanks for the tips.

mark
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post #909 of 3468 Old 02-08-2012, 07:34 PM
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My 6010 is my first forray into 3D, I was wondering if all displays show the 3D pop out effect such that while viewing the Sun 3D the sun looks more like an egg on it' side or during Hubble 3D people's arms are stretched out abnormally long, just on the pop out effect?

Anthem Statement D2v3D, Paradigm Sub 2, Paradigm S8s with C5, Anthem Statement M1 Amps, 174" AT Scope Screen, Epson 6010 3D Projector
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post #910 of 3468 Old 02-08-2012, 07:48 PM
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I bought a 5010 last night. Fedex says it should be here Friday. I won't, so it'll probably be Saturday before I get it, at best, assuming the local distributor will let me pick it up. I don't have any plans to use the 3D anytime soon, though.
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post #911 of 3468 Old 02-08-2012, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

My 6010 is my first forray into 3D, I was wondering if all displays show the 3D pop out effect such that while viewing the Sun 3D the sun looks more like an egg on it' side or during Hubble 3D people's arms are stretched out abnormally long, just on the pop out effect?

Dont have either disc studly but is the effect as pronounced if you set the signal sub menu 3d depth to say weak ? Ive noticed on my tw9000 that a strong setting on say piranha 3d [ 3d is expensive down here when you dont use amazon 100% of the time ] really elongates tree branches and the like ..
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post #912 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 07:57 AM
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Question on convergence and sharpness.... On the LCD alignment grid, are the white grid lines supposed to be very sharp? My lines have a bit of a shadow, like a fuzziness. Wondering if this is the issue others had earlier in the thread.

Who's your daddy?
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post #913 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jugdish69 View Post

Question on convergence and sharpness.... On the LCD alignment grid, are the white grid lines supposed to be very sharp? My lines have a bit of a shadow, like a fuzziness. Wondering if this is the issue others had earlier in the thread.

Do they look like the picture in post #499 of this thread? Mine looks like that in places. I'm not sure if it affects the picture at normal viewing distances or not, however. I'm worried that a replacement projector might be worse than the one I have now.

- David
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post #914 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

Do they look like the picture in post #499 of this thread? Mine looks like that in places. I'm not sure if it affects the picture at normal viewing distances or not, however. I'm worried that a replacement projector might be worse than the one I have now.


Ditto for mine. Its very sharp in places on the grid and other places its got a blur. Don't really notice it when I put the Pattern up on the remote it looks sharp.

mark
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post #915 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 10:17 AM
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Hi all,

My 6010 is on the way and this will be my first ever projector experience. Quite the noob here

I will be ceiling mounting the PJ and I have the luxury to mount anywhere in the range of Epson provides. My screen is 16:9 and 115 inch.

What would be the optimum throw? When I did the calculations, I got 15"4'. Would you agree? I assume the less you play with zoom etc, the better the lumens, clarity etc?

Another quick question is; my ceilings are 8 ft high. When I put the screen 3 feet high from the floor (i read that this is a rule of thumb), I will have only 3 inches left on the top from the ceiling. Is this too close to the ceiling? My screen is Black Diamond Zero Edge.
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post #916 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 11:01 AM
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I'll post a pic when I get home....

Who's your daddy?
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post #917 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozer19 View Post

Hi all,

My 6010 is on the way and this will be my first ever projector experience. Quite the noob here

I will be ceiling mounting the PJ and I have the luxury to mount anywhere in the range of Epson provides. My screen is 16:9 and 115 inch.

What would be the optimum throw? When I did the calculations, I got 15"4'. Would you agree? I assume the less you play with zoom etc, the better the lumens, clarity etc?

Another quick question is; my ceilings are 8 ft high. When I put the screen 3 feet high from the floor (i read that this is a rule of thumb), I will have only 3 inches left on the top from the ceiling. Is this too close to the ceiling? My screen is Black Diamond Zero Edge.

Here's a good thread on screen height.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=991035

mark
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post #918 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozer19 View Post

I will be ceiling mounting the PJ and I have the luxury to mount anywhere in the range of Epson provides. My screen is 16:9 and 115 inch.

What would be the optimum throw? When I did the calculations, I got 15"4'. Would you agree? I assume the less you play with zoom etc, the better the lumens, clarity etc?

I'm not sure what you mean by "the less you play with zoom". 15' 4" from lens to your 115" screen is about mid-zoom but there is nothing magical about the middle of a zoom lens. The middle isn't necessarily the best optically and it certainly isn't the brightest point. The brightest end of the lens is full wide-angle which would be about 11' 2" from lens to your screen but that is probably not the best optically (zoom lenses are usually less sharp with more distortion at their extreme ends). Also, you want a little room for error.

Therefore, since you can mount the projector anywhere, you have two issues to consider. Brightness and optical quality. For most projectors and for larger screen sizes, the answer to brightness is the more the better. It is rare that one has to worry about too much brightness in HT systems. However, the Epson 5010 is an exceptionally bright projector. Another factor you didn't mention is the gain of your screen. Yet another factor is whether you plan on optimizing brightness for 2D or 3D or want to strike a balance somewhere in the middle. It is almost impossible to get too bright for 3D even if you had a screen with a lot of gain. However, even a screen gain of 1.0 is going to give you a very bright picture in 2D especially if you mount the projector close to the screen. This will result in noticeably tlighter "black" levels especially when the bulb is new.

My recommendation is to experiment with the 5010 on a table before you mount it on the ceiling. You can determine how bright you want the picture. Just remember that the bulb will dim with age so error on the high side. As far as best position for optical quality, that is something that is also best done by experimentation because every lens is unique due to manufacturing tolerances.

- David
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post #919 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparky7 View Post

Here's a good thread on screen height.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=991035

mark

Thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

I'm not sure what you mean by "the less you play with zoom". 15' 4" from lens to your 115" screen is about mid-zoom but there is nothing magical about the middle of a zoom lens. The middle isn't necessarily the best optically and it certainly isn't the brightest point. The brightest end of the lens is full wide-angle which would be about 11' 2" from lens to your screen but that is probably not the best optically (zoom lenses are usually less sharp with more distortion at their extreme ends). Also, you want a little room for error.

Therefore, since you can mount the projector anywhere, you have two issues to consider. Brightness and optical quality. For most projectors and for larger screen sizes, the answer to brightness is the more the better. It is rare that one has to worry about too much brightness in HT systems. However, the Epson 5010 is an exceptionally bright projector. Another factor you didn't mention is the gain of your screen. Yet another factor is whether you plan on optimizing brightness for 2D or 3D or want to strike a balance somewhere in the middle. It is almost impossible to get too bright for 3D even if you had a screen with a lot of gain. However, even a screen gain of 1.0 is going to give you a very bright picture in 2D especially if you mount the projector close to the screen. This will result in noticeably tlighter "black" levels especially when the bulb is new.

My recommendation is to experiment with the 5010 on a table before you mount it on the ceiling. You can determine how bright you want the picture. Just remember that the bulb will dim with age so error on the high side. As far as best position for optical quality, that is something that is also best done by experimentation because every lens is unique due to manufacturing tolerances.

Thank you DNA. The gain of the screen is 1.4

I also failed to inform that I have a lot of ambient light (this is one of the reasons why I went with SI BD screen). I guess I'll have to find a "sweet spot" location where I have enough lumens for 3D where I can dim it down for 2D viewing.

So is the rule of thumb,
- the closer you get, the brighter, but less clear
- the further you get, the dimmer, but more clear?
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post #920 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozer19 View Post

Hi all,

Another quick question is; my ceilings are 8 ft high. When I put the screen 3 feet high from the floor (i read that this is a rule of thumb), I will have only 3 inches left on the top from the ceiling. Is this too close to the ceiling? My screen is Black Diamond Zero Edge.

I have the same projector and a 120" and I am 2 ft off the floor. I think 3 ft would be too much...but use the method in the other post and PROJECT on a blank wall/sheet to help you get comfortable, etc.
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post #921 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozer19 View Post

Thank you.

So is the rule of thumb,
- the closer you get, the brighter, but less clear
- the further you get, the dimmer, but more clear?

I have mine at nearly the closest I can get to fill a 120" screen, it is SUPER CLEAR.

I moved back and did not notice a better picture...
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post #922 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wnielsenbb View Post

That is what you get with 3D conversion. Really amazing it can do that if you think about it. Processing several scenes of 2 million pixels each and deciding what is in the background more. Pop out effects require more information than can be gleaned from such a process though.

Just a quick question - I'm receiving my 5010 tomorrow via Fedex, but I have been perusing the user manual for the last couple days, which I downloaded online. Unless I mised it, the manual doesn't even mention 2D to 3D conversion - how exactly do you turn it on? Is it just automatic when you select the 3D mode button on the remote while viewing 2D source material?

FEEL an awesome 3D Blu-ray movie in the Frey Theater - Now with projection in glorious "FREYMAX" 3D!

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post #923 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 01:24 PM
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Hmm, I actually don't know. I will try it sometime. Just watched Harold and Kumar Christmas 3D. That movie goes crazy on 3D popout. Very offensive, but funny movie.
Also watched the new "The Thing". It is not 3D and I am pretty much glad about that. That was too scary in 2D.
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post #924 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreyTheater View Post

Just a quick question - I'm receiving my 5010 tomorrow via Fedex, but I have been perusing the user manual for the last couple days, which I downloaded online. Unless I mised it, the manual doesn't even mention 2D to 3D conversion - how exactly do you turn it on? Is it just automatic when you select the 3D mode button on the remote while viewing 2D source material?

Once you open the settings screen you will see it. You can drill into it and change it from 'on' to 'off' anytime you want.
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post #925 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreyTheater View Post

Just a quick question - I'm receiving my 5010 tomorrow via Fedex, but I have been perusing the user manual for the last couple days, which I downloaded online. Unless I mised it, the manual doesn't even mention 2D to 3D conversion - how exactly do you turn it on? Is it just automatic when you select the 3D mode button on the remote while viewing 2D source material?

There's a setting in the 3D menu for turning the conversion feature ON/OFF. When it's OFF and you press the 2D/3D button the projector will only show 3D if a pure 3D signal is being sent. When the conversion is turned ON in the menu and you press the 2D/3D button on the remote then whatever you were just watching will be converted to "3D" by the projector.
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post #926 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozer19 View Post

So is the rule of thumb,
- the closer you get, the brighter, but less clear
- the further you get, the dimmer, but more clear?

No. Its true for the brighter/dimmer part but not the clear part of your statement. Generally, zoom lens aren't as sharp and have more optical defects (such as geometric distortion, chromatic abberation, etc.) toward both extreme ends of the lens. This is true to some extent even for very expensive multi-thousand dollar zoom lenses and it is certainly true for the much less expensively made lenses used on HT projectors. Unfortunately, it is not possible to make any more specific statements about projector zoom lenses since they vary so much from brand and model and to a lesser extent from unit to unit. I don't think that anyone can tell you what zoom position is the sharpest over the entire screen or has the least distortion for your specific projector. All I can say is you are less likely to have noticeable lens problems if you stay away from the extreme ends of the zoom range.

However, since you added the comment that you will be using the projector with ambient light, then brightness may override optical quality issues in which case you might want to get pretty close to the 11' 2" full wide-angle position.

- David
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post #927 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gmichael2 View Post

You can drill into it and change it from 'on' to 'off' anytime you want.

Won't drilling into the projector void the warrenty?

- David
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post #928 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warrior_Poet View Post

There's a setting in the 3D menu for turning the conversion feature ON/OFF. When it's OFF and you press the 2D/3D button the projector will only show 3D if a pure 3D signal is being sent. When the conversion is turned ON in the menu and you press the 2D/3D button on the remote then whatever you were just watching will be converted to "3D" by the projector.

OK, thanks - I was half correct in my guess then, at least.

FEEL an awesome 3D Blu-ray movie in the Frey Theater - Now with projection in glorious "FREYMAX" 3D!

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post #929 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

Won't drilling into the projector void the warrenty?

If you use an actual drill, my guess is yes.
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post #930 of 3468 Old 02-09-2012, 03:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreyTheater View Post

Just a quick question - I'm receiving my 5010 tomorrow via Fedex, but I have been perusing the user manual for the last couple days, which I downloaded online. Unless I mised it, the manual doesn't even mention 2D to 3D conversion - how exactly do you turn it on? Is it just automatic when you select the 3D mode button on the remote while viewing 2D source material?

See bottom of page 41 of the manual.

2014
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