Viewsonic Pro8200 Calibrations - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 63 Old 02-11-2012, 03:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bse53 View Post

Coderguy,
I input your values and ran HCFR. Here are the results. The picture looked pretty good, though skintones were toward the green, as my results show.

Sorry about your problems with the spectracal 6.

Yah, a new lamp has far more RED on it than my lamp does, my LAMP has tinted more towards blue and lost green and red, that is why. There is no way you can plug someone elses settings in when the lamp isn't exactly the same hours or really close, generally it only works with a new lamp, and even then once you get 10-20 hours, it will have already drifted.


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post #32 of 63 Old 02-12-2012, 06:10 PM
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Waiting for a new red filter to maximize the pro8200 black levels, so here's a bright calibration for tv watching.

You should adjust the brightness, contrast, saturation and gamma to suit your taste and room conditions. It looks pretty good on my screen. Use eco to reduce luminance.

[IMG][/IMG]
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post #33 of 63 Old 02-16-2012, 07:39 PM
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Ok, I finally got around to watching a blu-ray movie and the dark room mode I calibrated a few weeks ago looked pretty good! I'm going to tweak it a bit, and lowered the brightness to 12 and raised the contrast to 51 and lowered the saturation to 43.
I think overall the colors are more saturated than the default settings.

I've been using the User 1 mode for HDtv and it's very bright, even with the .1 ND filter I'm using, which lowers the ft-l to about 35.

I've got less than 100 hours on the bulb and I'll tweak both after I reach the 100 hour mark.

I'm going to make the dark room mode work, since that's the only mode that eco is on by default and it's a nuisance to change it. I wish they would update the firmware and add eco on as a choice in the function mode.

Has anyone besides rgtaa found the settings useful?

Unlike Coderguy, I'm learning the art of calibration and it takes several hours to do a calibration. I think anyone could get a very nice picture just by using a calibration disc like Spears and Munsil or Disney's WOW disk.

Once my new red filter I'll really go to work and dial it in. I think it will be a great addition to the black levels of this projector. If not, I've only got $20 into it, and I'll add another .1 ND filter.
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post #34 of 63 Old 02-16-2012, 07:44 PM
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Coderguy,
I input your values and ran HCFR. Here are the results. The picture looked pretty good, though skintones were toward the green, as my results show.

Sorry about your problems with the spectracal 6.

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post #35 of 63 Old 02-16-2012, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
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No problem, I am not an all-out-expert on calibration either, but I'm getting there (getting close, been calibrating for 4 years on and off)...

OK so one thing to note is that what can be good is for someone to store your settings, also store another setting using a calibration disc, and just compare the two. In the end, what really matters is what looks better on average across most content.

I am working with Spectracal to ensure the accuracy of my Cert'd C6 colorimeter (package costs $800 but I got it a little less than that), and I am still getting some MINOR repeatability errors so I am not 100% convinced on the accuracy of this new meter, which is why I removed my calibrations from this thread temporarily. Once I get some data from Spectracal's support department and am more convinced on accuracy, then I shall repost more information. Another thing is, I probably should have just bought a spectrophotometer instead of another colorimeter (should have gotten me an eye-one Pro, this is not like the eye-one display colorimeter, the i1 pro is a $1000 spectrophotometer that doesn't drift and is almost always accurate and has internal error tests to determine if it is erroring on any values).


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post #36 of 63 Old 02-16-2012, 07:54 PM
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I have noticed the eye one 2 that I have can wander a bit while I'm using it. For $100 one can't expect too much, but all in all, I think it's a worthwhile investment for a hobbyist, and certainly appropriate for a $700 projector.

In fact, if I add up the colorimeter, and a couple of filters I probably should have just gone for the HC4000 (which has great OOTB color). But then what's the fun in that.
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post #37 of 63 Old 02-25-2012, 08:50 PM
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I've now got about 150 hours on the projector and I tweaked the Dark Room calibration I previously posted.

Yes it is difficult using this mode, but I like the idea of having something that has Eco on by default.

Anyway, it's not perfect, but I like the picture from it. I purposely set the color temp above D65 as i was getting a reddish tint. You could move red to 56 or 57 to lower the color temperature.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

I haven't had much luck getting red closer to the default color gamut. I can move it toward magenta, but as soon as I increase saturation, it reverts back to its original setting.
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post #38 of 63 Old 03-02-2012, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bse53 View Post

I've now got about 150 hours on the projector and I tweaked the Dark Room calibration I previously posted.

Yes it is difficult using this mode, but I like the idea of having something that has Eco on by default.

Anyway, it's not perfect, but I like the picture from it. I purposely set the color temp above D65 as i was getting a reddish tint. You could move red to 56 or 57 to lower the color temperature.
...

I haven't had much luck getting red closer to the default color gamut. I can move it toward magenta, but as soon as I increase saturation, it reverts back to its original setting.

Thanks, bse. Working for me.

I have about 100 hours with ND4 filter and am in a completely dark basement, projecting onto an off-white wall. I moved the R55 down as things were looking a little reddish on my setup and cranked up the brightness and contrast a little; contrast value > brightness value. My Patriot Box Office has Brightness/Contrast (B/C) settings as well, and I am having a hard time getting the correct values in conjunction with the 8200. These values below for B/C may change as I am going to tweak them on the Box Office based on my LCD television.

DARK ROOM
BRIGHTNESS: ?? (value < contrast)
CONTRAST: ?? (value > brightness)
SAT/SHP/TNT: 50/4/50
R?? / G47 / B37
Red 244 68 63
Green 22 78 56
Blue 30 95 62
Cyan 229 56 72
MAGENTA 10 74 64
YELLOW 21 58 69
GAMMA 2

I also like this setup in DARKROOM better than the THEATER mode as ECO mode is always on. Watched Harry Potter 2 - Chamber of Secrets last night, and I thought the film colors were really good.
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post #39 of 63 Old 03-03-2012, 05:13 PM
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I've been working on a calibration for a red color compensating filter. It does two things-- moves red more to a true red and away from an orange red and acts as a neutral density filter, but doesn't reduce light equally across the spectrum which is an advantage over a nd filter.

I think the picture is an improvement, especially if you're looking to reduce the light output of the projector. The dark room setting with only the cc30r filter outputs about 17 fL on my 100" screen and about 20 fL using User 1.

It doesn't turn those dark scenes into black, but it does make them better, IMO.

If anyone is adventurous and wants to try it, I'll be posting the calibrations for the filter shortly. B&H photo is the only place I've found the filter and it's a special order item so it takes about 2 weeks to get it. It costs $19 so depending on the shipping you choose, you're not out a lot of money.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Red_CC30R.html

I also made an attachment using a hot glue gun and this filter holder which was $5. The ring is a lid from a nut jar which I cut out the center using an xacto knife:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._Requires.html

[IMG][/IMG]



This will reduce light approx 2/3 of a stop, so it isn't for anyone that needs all the light the projector throws.
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post #40 of 63 Old 03-21-2012, 08:10 AM
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OK, here are some settings for using a CC30R filter.

The object of this is to reduce the amount of light reaching the screen with an added benefit of improving black level.

This is not a good idea to use if you're using the projector in a situation with ambient light. In my case, the room is completely light controlled, and the walls and ceilings at the screen are painted near black.

To improve the black levels before using this filter, I would:
1. control ambient light
2. paint the walls and ceilings a dark neutral color
3. control the light leakage from the projector's louvered openings (I hung black cloth near those openings to absorb the light.

The CC filter (or a ND filter) is reducing the light leakage from the lens reaching the screen by reducing the total amount of light. In the case of the CC filter, it is reducing the green and blue light while passing red, while a ND filter reduces the light equally.

Anyway, I'm no expert on this, but I do like the results and it seems like the blacks are closer to black. I would try and take some pictures of the results, but taking a photograph of black is an exercise in futility.

The colors are very vivid, but then the projector throws a nice bright image as it is. These settings are using User 1 mode. I'll post the dark room settings later.

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
The gamma isn't exactly smooth. You might try the gamma 3 setting.
[IMG][/IMG]
The color temperature is pretty smooth across IRE levels. It's a little on the warm side, and you could tweak that by increasing blue one or decreasing green 1.
[IMG][/IMG]

If anyone tries this, please let me know what you think, including if you think it doesn't help. Some of this gets pretty subjective.
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post #41 of 63 Old 03-24-2012, 07:24 PM
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Hi,

Finally got this projector from Amazon. It was a used one, but when I got it, the projector seems brand new, never opened. Anyway, it seems to be an old build Feb 2011. I wanted to know what are the best settings. I'm currently using the following from the previous post:

Brightness 39 / Contrast 41

(Saturation 40 / Sharpness 5) <-- goes back to default(50,0)

Color Mode: Standard

Color Temp: MID

Eco Mode: On

Anything else to change? I seem to have the bug under "User Color" going back to default. The "Video Setting" Saturation and Sharpness also goes back to default. Also, how do you find out which firmware you have?

Thanks!
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post #42 of 63 Old 03-25-2012, 08:15 AM
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You can find your firmware version by (this is from memory, see the official thread for sure) going to the equivelent lamp hours, then push right, then left twice, then right again. It should show in the top right of the screen. My unit was made Feb 2012 and its version 2.3.
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post #43 of 63 Old 03-25-2012, 12:01 PM
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Thanks, the works. My version is 2.09, quite old. Any changes between 2.3 and 2.09 besides the menu changes going back to default? I also changed the overscan to 0 by coderguy's instruction. I can still return this to Amazon and hopefully get a newer build.
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post #44 of 63 Old 10-06-2012, 07:18 AM - Thread Starter
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When calibrating and if making a FORCED choice between too much Red, Green, or Blue. It's generally better to have a little too much blue than too much red and green, because Red + Green = emphasizes yellow or green, and yellow skin tints drive me crazy. Whereas blue generally makes skin more pale, but if you make skin slightly more pale it often slightly hides skin tone color error. That is why if I am forced to choose between the two, I prefer a slightly cooler image over a warmer image (usually, if all things are equal).


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post #45 of 63 Old 01-07-2013, 02:28 PM
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Hey guys, I just picked up this projector, I am using it in a basement with varying light conditions (its a rec room) and I was wondering what can i do to get more detail in the shadows? It seems whenever I watch the Matrix or any dark film, half the screen is black. Any tips?
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post #46 of 63 Old 01-08-2013, 09:07 AM
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Same thing happened to me, Inception was unwatchably dark. If you look at the official thread this is answered already, but it took a bit of digging. You need to set all sources AND the 8200 to use RGB input. Obviously the method will differ depending on which source you're configuring, but for the 8200, go to menu, then input type. It will be set to 'Auto'. Scroll it over to RGB. Once you have made the change on source and PJ, your black levels will be MUCH better. Good luck!
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post #47 of 63 Old 01-08-2013, 05:20 PM
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Thanks alot for the advice, I will try it out tonight.
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post #48 of 63 Old 01-08-2013, 06:25 PM
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Thanks as well. Just bought this PJ from Newegg with their recent deal and was amazed at how poor the picture quality was - particularly black levels. Found out that Newegg does not allow returns, so I am stuck with it at this point..

Coderguy, is there a consolidated post of your latest recommended settings? I would like to combine this with the RGB output to see if it fixes things.
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post #49 of 63 Old 01-10-2013, 11:53 PM
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For calibrations go here http://www.avsforum.com/t/1390576/viewsonic-pro8200-calibrations/30 and once you do the RGB Fix, the picture reall looks great, not saying its the best in the world but for the $650 I got mine for, there is nothing else on the market that can touch it.
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post #50 of 63 Old 01-11-2013, 05:01 AM
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I tried every conceivable settings in the calibration thread but I suspect that my Pro8200 is defective because the picture in Lord of the Ring or Bourne trilogy BD are unwatchable. There was no detail in dark scenes and real dark overall. I did set the Panasonic BD player to RGB enhanced and the Viewsonic to RGB. Will call newegg to see what they can do.
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post #51 of 63 Old 01-11-2013, 07:09 AM
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Chanc,
If you have a Panasonic, there are two place you have to set the player to RGB-- and you need to set it to regular, not enhanced.

I don't remember the specific locations, but one is in the menu and the other you access through the controller.
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post #52 of 63 Old 01-11-2013, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bse53 View Post

Chanc,
If you have a Panasonic, there are two place you have to set the player to RGB-- and you need to set it to regular, not enhanced.

I don't remember the specific locations, but one is in the menu and the other you access through the controller.

Ah, BSE53, I want to thank you for the detailed calibration of the Viewsonic. I did enter all your settings for user1 and they are indeed one of the best settings I had. I actually tried them all for the last week . I have 2 Panasonic BD players and you are right, under hdmi there are 2 settings for RGB. I will try the regular rgb. The viewsonic is known have a very bright picture and I am shocked that no matter what settings were inputted the pictures are always dark. They are OK for animated movies like finding Nemo, etc... but for the Bourne series and others, the pictures were dark to begin with, with the Pro8200, they are really not watch-able. This is not my first projector so I am really surprised that the pro8200 picture is darker than my ancient Infocus 4805.

I did find that the lamp did crush a little wire at the corner, I reset the lamp and freed the wire, not sure if that has anything to do with the dark picture. Newegg does not allow refund but they do replace the unit if it was defective. Wish me luck!!!smile.gif
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post #53 of 63 Old 01-11-2013, 07:51 AM
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I doubt its defective, when I watched the Matrix for the first time on my 8200 is was basically unwatchable due to the blacks, but I got the RGB straitened out and all of the dynamic settings in my PS3 off and boom great picture all around.
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post #54 of 63 Old 01-11-2013, 09:54 AM
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My pro8200 is brand new, should I still calibrate or wait?
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post #55 of 63 Old 01-11-2013, 02:03 PM
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Chanc,

On the BDT 210, I had to set the RBD standard, not enhanced in the HDMI menu under settings.

When a disc is playing there are other choices under the display button on the remote. As I remember it make sure the process chroma is off.

I'm going from memory since i moved that player to the tv and an using a BDT1xx in the theater room.
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post #56 of 63 Old 01-11-2013, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingRenz View Post

My pro8200 is brand new, should I still calibrate or wait?

It depends on what you mean by calibrate. By all means use a disc and set the contrast and brightness and you can try out some of the calibrations in this thread, but I wouldn't get too hung up on it for the first 100 hours or so. The lamp is going to change over time.
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post #57 of 63 Old 01-11-2013, 02:11 PM
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Yeah, calibration is sort of a moving target, I am just constantly playing with it until it looks right to me.
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post #58 of 63 Old 01-13-2013, 03:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingRenz View Post

My pro8200 is brand new, should I still calibrate or wait?

Without a calibration meter, the only thing I would do is set the PJ to STD mode, Gamma to 1 or 2 (your preference), brightness to 45-55 / contrast 45-55 (technically on my very old lamp brightness needed to be 53 and contrast 47, but my bluray player's sharpening filter was messing with the contrast, so I'm not sure the exact correct brightness in your setup. Lower the master color saturation control from 40 to 45 per your liking. I believe the SAT is completely different depending if you choose dark room or STD mode, but I haven't used the Viewsonic in a few weeks so memory is getting foggier on it.

A pluge pattern is very easy to use, just download the AVS Rec709 disk. Should be 45-55 on both controls for STD mode. I can set brightness and contrast by eye and get really close because I've done it so many times, basically if not using a pluge pattern, you just use any PURE black screen and lower the brightness until you stop seeing an improvement in blacks, you'll notice the steps of the blacks getting visibly darker as you lower brightness suddenly stops, raise it back one or two notches. Now adjust the contrast until it looks right, even though technically a pluge pattern gives the most accurate brightness/contrast setting, I sometimes make slight adjustments to these depending on the source content, director's intent be darned. The problem is some source content has messed up brightness/contrast output levels, and I can usually tell and fix it myself just by eye.

Correcting the Red-Tint in dark scenes as "ballpark" by Eye:

I am hesitant to give this advice, because in at least one way it is bad advice to try to change a calibration by eye, but let me say this first:

The Viewsonic Pro8200 has unusually good looking color in all areas OOTB except for the red tint in dark scenes. I truly see less bothersome occasionally "off-color" scenes across the board than almost any other projector (even before the VS was calibrated).

You can try reducing the MASTER saturation control first, this will only help a little for getting rid of the RED tint in dark scenes, and mess with the RED gray-scale one as well (the RGB setting), then you can also go into the CMS and reduce the RED Gain and Saturation slightly (RED will get a bit drabber if you overdo it, just do it a little bit).


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

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post #59 of 63 Old 08-08-2013, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bse53 View Post

I've now got about 150 hours on the projector and I tweaked the Dark Room calibration I previously posted.


Yes it is difficult using this mode, but I like the idea of having something that has Eco on by default.


Anyway, it's not perfect, but I like the picture from it. I purposely set the color temp above D65 as i was getting a reddish tint. You could move red to 56 or 57 to lower the color temperature.



I haven't had much luck getting red closer to the default color gamut. I can move it toward magenta, but as soon as I increase saturation, it reverts back to its original setting.



OK...so I used the settings from this post and everything looks great except dark levels...they look a lot better but how can I get more detail from dark scenes. The PJ is hooked up via HDMI to an Xbox360 and also my cable box Explorer 8642HDC. I do have the PJ and Xbox360 set to RGB but I don't have that setting for the cable box. The screen is a M100UWH Elite Screen 12-14 ft away. The room is light controlled. Roughly 1200 hrs on the lamp
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post #60 of 63 Old 08-08-2013, 02:56 PM
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If I am using the 360, for battlefield 3 , I do adjust the settings in the game to get good results with settings on the pro8200, it's mostly trial and error.

Something I did, that works for me is settng up a hdtv TV next to a PJ, and get same movie/tv show on it, and make the picture look as close as I can to the hdtv. Once it's set right, I remove the hdtv and put it in another room.

The reason this works for me so well, is it's hard to tell how a scene or tv show is suppose to look, but having the hdtv set up right, I can match the colors/dark levels to the hdtv on the PJ. Once I did that, and sat back, the PJ looked awesome, because I realized in lots of scenes the camera that took the movie sucked, and on a big screen it magnifies it BIG TIME, so if it sucks on the hdtv, it will suck more on big screen. Some movies/netflix stuff sucks on both my hdtv and pj, I just had to know that the PJ was set up right if both the hdtv and PJ have same image on same scene. Hope that makes sense.
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Reply Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP

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