Viewsonic Pro8200 Calibrations - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 63 Old 01-29-2012, 01:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Started this thread for calibrating the Viewsonic Pro8200.
Farthest Throw Native On/Off 2,304:1


Native On/Off maxes out around 2000:1 to 2500:1 at best case, but generally is in the ranges of 1500:1 to 2000:1 in most peoples' setups.
 

FACTORY DEFAULTS - PRE-CALIBRATION MEASUREMENTS (2600 Hours on Lamp, only changed saturation, brightness, and contrast)


By looking at the PRE-CALIBRATION charts above, we can see by default that the image is too cool but the reason it is has gotten this cool is because of my LAMP wear (2600 hours on a lamp is a lot different than a new lamp). However, it's not as bad as the graphs make it appear to be. Too cool of an image is easily the most bearable compared to say too warm. Furthermore, the gamut is not bad at all, because the three primary colors (Red, Green, Blue) are very close by default. The secondaries (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow) are a bit farther off. The white point error is off because the gray-scale is off. The default GAMMA is still impressive, even with 2600 hours on the lamp, the Gamma Preset 1 measures almost exactly 2.22, with a slight bump up between 70-95 IRE (which many would argue is beneficial anyhow). Only Magenta and Cyan are off enough on the Gamut to really worry about calibrating the gamut (well yellow as well a tiny bit). Even though the image is too cool, it still doesn't look bad at all in the default mode overall when watching it (given that the luminance, gamma, and gamut is pretty good, though gray-scale is too blue).

 

Now let's look at the POST-CALIBRATION (editing, adding in one sec)...


Pretty Close to Perfect even after 2600 hours on the lamp. Post-calibration the gamma has a couple bumps in it, but as long as it does not drop below 2.1 (which it does not), then it is fine. Keep in mind these charts are showing only TINY errors overall because the range of error it shows is very small. Some of you may need to calibrate to an image with a bit more blue in it to overcome Red/Green. I took my time with this one and the GAMUT is really good (most colors are perfect).



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post #2 of 63 Old 01-29-2012, 01:51 AM - Thread Starter
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For the lurkers, check out BSE's calibration as his may work better given he has a newer lamp.
Just whichever one looks best is the one I'd use.

BSE's Calibration # 1
Brightness 39 / Contrast 41 / Saturation 40 / Sharpness 5

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21567922

The CMS does work very well, but it's not going to be fun. There are 2 bugs in the CMS, both have workarounds, but the workarounds are tedious. Keep in mind that I have the earliest firmware so I cannot say if these 2 bugs exist in all firmware.

CMS BUG # 1 = Locked State, changing Hue/Sat/Gain suddenly has no affect, WORKAROUND = play around with the three back in forth or go to another part of the menu and change modes then come back

CMS BUG # 2 = Changing Sat often has too large a affect on Hue or Gain, and vice versa, WORKAROUND = Try many combos of changes and take tons of measurements, it is maddening, but it does eventually work

The VERY GOOD NEWS:
The CMS works fine but it is just hard to use. Standard Mode calibrates the best, by setting Gamma to 1, you are literally getting a perfect gamma curve, right at 2.2 up until 70 IRE then it bumps, which is what it should do for a projector at this contrast level.


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post #3 of 63 Old 01-29-2012, 01:59 AM
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Hi!

Just so you know, I just recommended this PJ to a nice Lady whose going to splash a 78" image onto a .8 gain Gray surface. I'm actually quite unbiased as far as PJ selection, and certainly did not intend to overtly sway the OP on the other thread.

In many respects, the 8200 is one of the better suited DLPs for Ceiling mounting if the ceilings are 9'.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #4 of 63 Old 01-29-2012, 04:37 AM - Thread Starter
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OK just watched the DVE demo content after calibrating, it definitely looks far better than the default modes, but it could still be improved by quite a bit.

Anyhow, will post again another day, all worn out after this maddening CMS.


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post #5 of 63 Old 01-29-2012, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

OK just watched the DVE demo content after calibrating, it definitely looks far better than the default modes, but it could still be improved by quit a bit.

Anyhow, will post again another day, all worn out after this maddening CMS.


Wow! I'm impressed, you did all this in one day.
Thanks a lot for the settings, I'll check them out.
Your new calibration device didn't come yet, so it can only get better and better!


update 1: you are missing blue for hue saturation gain
I can't seem to be able to adjust under user 1 "video setting" the saturation sharpness tint , I can see them but can't adjust them.
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post #6 of 63 Old 01-29-2012, 06:04 PM
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]I've been working on calibrations using the CC40R filter, since it has the benefit of increasing apparent blacks, while lowering luminance and correcting the red deficiency.

I haven't posted any calibrations until I got the grayscale issues settled and it turned out to be my dvd settings, not the projector.

Anyway, since my projector is in a completely light controlled room I need to cut overall luminance, especially for movies, so here's some settings for the Dark Room mode, with eco on.

The screen is 100", throw is about 12'6". Whether you can use these settings will depend on how on light controlled the room is, since this projector throws quite a bit of uncontrolled light.

Here's the data screen:
[IMG][/IMG]

Settings are in the comments on the first screen.

Here's the RGB graph:
[IMG][/IMG]
Here's the color temp graph:
[IMG][/IMG]
Here's the color gamut:


Whoops, the yellow setting is missing in the first screen. It's 0/64/64.

As you can see, it's about 29 ft-l on a 100" screen or approx. 700 lumens.
Add a 1 stop nd filter and you'd have 14 f-l, just about right for movies in a completely light controlled room-- but as I have hinted, using a.5 stop nd filter and the cc40R will give you better blacks and bring the lumens to about the right amount for a 100-108" screen.

I think it looks pretty good. As Coderguy has said, it's kind of tedious, since there is only one setting to adjust colors, not low and high settings like you'd find on more adjustable projectors. But at the end, the overall range is fairly close.
You're mileage may vary.
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post #7 of 63 Old 01-29-2012, 07:19 PM
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bse53
Yeah, you got it right. Since my projector is same hours and version as yours, you nailed it. It looks the best of all the settings I tried.
Maybe work with standard mode and other modes to give different lighting situations.
You laid it out, line by line and it was easy to input in.
Glad you figured out what the problem was before.

After using your settings I flipped through the other ones , user 1, standard, etc... and your's was the only one that looked really good.

Maybe look at sharpness , and anything else you can think of. thanks.

What a difference your settings make on different media. The blacks look good, the skin tones are good. Even low def stuff looks really good. I was using standard mode before, but now I'll use this setting.
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post #8 of 63 Old 01-29-2012, 11:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Measuring on my old meter, my projector is a bit off from BSE's settings since I have more hours on the lamp. The color temp was about 6900k so not too bad, but the DE's were all over 10 for the most part. The CIE chart still looked the same pretty much.

Now that I look at Dark Room mode, it may actually calibrate better than User Mode 1, not sure. Will calibrate it later and keep these two modes going and see. I think the CMS settings / CIE doesn't drift very much or vary much between projectors, but the gray-scale likely does.

After viewing both settings, I think it is better to make minimal changes to the CMS, because I am thinking the original WIDE GAMUT looked better than the NARROW one I created, hard to say for sure though.

The narrow gamut I calibrated to is technically closer to Rec 709, but I don't think it's better.


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post #9 of 63 Old 01-30-2012, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Measuring on my old meter, my projector is a bit off from BSE's settings since I have more hours on the lamp. The color temp was about 6900k so not too bad, but the DE's were all over 10 for the most part. The CIE chart still looked the same pretty much.

Now that I look at Dark Room mode, it may actually calibrate better than User Mode 1, not sure. Will calibrate it later and keep these two modes going and see. I think the CMS settings / CIE doesn't drift very much or vary much between projectors, but the gray-scale likely does.

After viewing both settings, I think it is better to make minimal changes to the CMS, because I am thinking the original WIDE GAMUT looked better than the NARROW one I created, hard to say for sure though.

The narrow gamut I calibrated to is technically closer to Rec 709, but I don't think it's better.

I agree 100%. I'm going to work on the dark room mode and redo the color gamut. I ended up using a rather convoluted process to get where it is, and I going to try another method I read about.

I've ordered a new color filter and a .3 f-stop nd filter and a multi-filter holder to try my idea of using a cc filter to both reduce lumens and add some red to the image. Total cost at this point $33.

The color gamut settings apply across modes, so getting that close-- bringing the secondaries in line with the primaries shouldn't drift as the color temperature is adjusted for each mode.

Everything I've tried so far is with eco on. I think the added bulb life and reduced light output is important, since the projector has plenty of light output and there is way too much stray light coming from the projector.

I bought some black fabric and tacked it up on the ceiling right in front of the projector and to the exhaust side, since there is quite a bit of light there. When I painted my room, I painted the screen wall and only the first 6' of the ceiling and side walls charcoal- since that's where the strongest reflections are. The rest of the ceiling is white, and I probably should darken it-- but that means scraping off the popcorn ceiling, which is a really messy task.

Anyway, even though the CMS is somewhat limited, I think you can get a pretty good looking image-- the real limitation and what I think is causing the somewhat gray deep blacks is the stray light. Still very watchable and better than or at least equal to the higher end previous generation projectors (at least my old pjtx100.
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post #10 of 63 Old 01-30-2012, 06:15 AM
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I didn't have much success moving the primaries (too me the red is too orange and the green is too yellow, which the CIE graph shows). I did get the secondaries closer though.
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post #11 of 63 Old 01-30-2012, 06:20 AM
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But then, I'm really just learning the art. And my colorimeter hopefully is pretty close, but as I'm reading will drift over time, with no way to calibrate it (without spending more than the sensor cost).
I grew up in a hardware store and learned to match paint the old fashioned way-- add a little of this and that. My sister, who was a artist, taught me the basics.
Now they just plug the sample into the computer and it spits out a formula.
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post #12 of 63 Old 01-30-2012, 07:28 AM
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By the way, I did not include a gamma graph, since it's all over the place. If I had included a luminance graph you would see the levels in the mid IRE's are elevated.
Actually that is represented by comparing the Y and Delta Y numbers in the measures screen shot. The Delta Y numbers represent the luminance to track a 2.2 gamma.

If you think the mid level images are too light, change to gamma 3. Or if you want more shadow detail change to gamma 1.

Put on a dark movie that you like and lower the brightness setting some more (and then increase the contrast setting) until you like the dark scenes. Then put on a bright daylight scene and adjust the contrast.

At the end of the day, all of this fiddling is just to get a nice looking picture.

I have no illusions of getting a reference signal from the projector for a couple of reasons. 1. I'm not that knowledgeable and 2. Given the limited tools I don't think you can get there. But that's doesn't mean we can't get a very nice picture from this projector.

I'm still impressed every time I turn it on a HD tv station (especially ESPN). SD tv varies from OK down, but is that because the projector has no upconverting capabilities-- which is why it blanks the screen and shifts every time you switch between a HD and SD tv channel?
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post #13 of 63 Old 01-30-2012, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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The tools Viewsonic gives us are actually fairly complete if they all worked perfectly, except for there are NO custom gamma adjustments. Dark Theater mode might have issues with trying to get flat gamma, not sure.

The main issue is the CMS is "skippy" and "buggy", do you have the CMS bugs in your firmware version as well?

Like I noticed the saturation control often peaks out at 127, when you go to 128 there is no change, I can increase saturation from 127 to 200 and it does generally nothing, then when I go back to 127 again all of a sudden resets. There are bugs like this that make it basically impossible for me to fix the green. However, I think I can get all the other controls in-line, and I can probably try to set the green over the gamut to be a bit wide.

SD from TV looks bad on every projector even if using expensive $5000 video processor upscaling, there just isn't enough resolution in the original image to watch it blown up like that. Some DVD's look ok up-scaled, but not great.

I haven't used the projector's scaling functionalities, but all projectors have some upconverting abilities, how good they are at it is another story however.


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post #14 of 63 Old 01-30-2012, 01:42 PM
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[quote=coderguy;21570552]The tools Viewsonic gives us are actually fairly complete if they all worked perfectly, except for there are NO custom gamma adjustments. Dark Theater mode might have issues with trying to get flat gamma, not sure.

The main issue is the CMS is "skippy" and "buggy", do you have the CMS bugs in your firmware version as well?

Like I noticed the saturation control often peaks out at 127, when you go to 128 there is no change, I can increase saturation from 127 to 200 and it does generally nothing, then when I go back to 127 again all of a sudden resets. There are bugs like this that make it basically impossible for me to fix the green. However, I think I can get all the other controls in-line, and I can probably try to set the green over the gamut to be a bit wide.

QUOTE]

What I noticed was how slow the response is. I assumed it was slow response from the sensor or HCFR, but in the real-time CIE graph, I would change saturation or tint, and it seemed like nothing was happening, so I would move it more and all of a sudden it would jump.

I'll pay more attention, but it sounds kind of like the same thing. So if it is, they haven't fixed it.
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post #15 of 63 Old 01-30-2012, 02:03 PM - Thread Starter
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The eye one can take 5 seconds or so to get a reading in HCFR, with blue it will probably have the most trouble or take even longer. But yah, you can see by eye if 127 to 200 looks the same the bug is there.

BTW sometimes it lets me go to 140 on saturation but other controls will freeze up so I'll have to revert it all. Definitely makes for a hard calibration, Luckily the gray scale is easy to calibrate, only the gamut is hard.


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I see you are updating the second post. Very good. I'll keep an eye on it.

Both you guys are talking way over my head, but the results are what matters, and appreciate both you guys doing the fine tuning on the pro8200.

Checked out both settings and both seem to be good for me.
For very dark room bse53 settings work good for me.
I'm checking coderguy's settings out right now during the day in a semi-dark room and coderguy's settings seem better for me during the day , bse53's settings (which in semi-lightened room is too washed out) . I will check out coderguys setting tonight when it's very dark to see how it goes for me. (coderguy maybe add whether eco mode and sharpness and any other thing you can think of, if you don't mind). I like the skin tones. This is 100 percent improvement over the first settings a few days ago. Nice job.
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post #17 of 63 Old 01-31-2012, 03:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Sharpness should generally be set to 5-8 regardless of the calibration, although there is no law that says you can't use 10-15, but there is some harshness and ringing at those settings. I sometimes use 6-10 in HTPC, but rarely ever go above that. It is more of a personal preference. I still need to figure out how to control the gamma better since there are no gamma controls like my JVC has.



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Coderguy!
Maybe go through bse53 settings again, he had gamma 2 that is missing I think.

Also for your version maybe add some of those settings , unless they are the same has his.
Gamma
Brightness, Contrast, Saturation, Sharpness, etc. and whether eco or regular. Maybe go line by line on pro8200 so we can just adjust all the lines of data. Thanks. I'm a newbie and everything needs to be spelled out for a beginner like me to get the best picture.
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post #19 of 63 Old 01-31-2012, 04:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Just change Gamma to how it looks best.
Try 0-1-2-3 while watching a few various shots (dark, almost bright, bright), this will depend on how bright your room is.

Saturation anywhere to around 37-45 I think, more of a personal preference really. 37-42 is probably closest to a true calibrated image, but depends on everyone's drift on their projector.
Brightness and contrast, you need to set those with a pluge pattern, generally keep brightness 5 lower than contrast for the most contrasty image (45/50, 40/45).

With the Viewsonic this is a trade-off, you will get some loss in detail by doing this, but you do get better contrast. These settings also depend on your bluray player or PS3 or other sources that you are using. You really need to use a PLUGE pattern to set contrast and brightness. I will try to explain this more later on, and show you where to get the simple patterns.



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post #20 of 63 Old 02-04-2012, 09:59 AM
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Thanks for all the work, coderguy and BSE!

I watched Journey to the Center of the Earth anaglyth (green-magenta) 3-D last week, and it was not good. There were double images, color separations, blurriness, etc. None of which was a major issue on my CRT monitor and 32" LCD television. Therefore, I knew that the colors were off on the 8200.

Re-did the calibration to both yours, and the movie is much, much better in 3D mode than before. Works a little better with coderguy's settings as there is less red and seemingly more brightness.

However, I like both set-ups for movies. Watched Wyatt Earp, and the colors were extremely good.
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post #21 of 63 Old 02-04-2012, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinControl View Post

Thanks for all the work, coderguy and BSE!

I watched Journey to the Center of the Earth anaglyth (green-magenta) 3-D last week, and it was not good. There were double images, color separations, blurriness, etc. None of which was a major issue on my CRT monitor and 32" LCD television. Therefore, I knew that the colors were off on the 8200.

Re-did the calibration to both yours, and the movie is much, much better in 3D mode than before. Works a little better with coderguy's settings as there is less red and seemingly more brightness.

However, I like both set-ups for movies. Watched Wyatt Earp, and the colors were extremely good.

I'm confused, how did you get 3D to work on your pro8200. There would be double-images, color seperations, blurriness on all our pro8200's.
You need a 3D projector and be wearing 3D glasses to get a good picture. I'm thinking you already know that, right? So are you talking about 3D movie that was made for 2D projectors/hdtv's ,right?
Is there some process or software that can convert it so it looks ok on pro8200. I don't know?
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post #22 of 63 Old 02-04-2012, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgtaa View Post

I'm confused, how did you get 3D to work on your pro8200. There would be double-images, color seperations, blurriness on all our pro8200's.
You need a 3D projector and be wearing 3D glasses to get a good picture. I'm thinking you already know that, right? So are you talking about 3D movie that was made for 2D projectors/hdtv's ,right?
Is there some process or software that can convert it so it looks ok on pro8200. I don't know?

Old style anaglyth 3D.

It works, but has the usual weaknesses/annoyances.

Most of all the new 3D movies are now based on polarization 3D systems - "3D" televisions and 3D projectors with bulky powered glasses.

The Journey movie that I got was the original 2008 Blu-Ray release with 2 anaglyth paper glasses. Had to buy it on eBay via the UK a few weeks ago.


As for, "double-images, color seperations, blurriness", yes, anaglyth causes that including headaches. However, all those are worse/more noticeable when the colors are not accurate. That's the whole "technology" behind anaglyth...the 2 colors fool your brain, and if they are not accurate, it's just a blurry image in one or both eyes. The way my system was set up before, the green wasn't bad, but the magenta was off.

NOTE: There is software to make 2D into 3D anaglyth and vice versa. Can't imagine that the conversion would be much fun/easy with a 30 GB blu-ray file. Those programs may also only read DVD/DIVX file formats.
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post #23 of 63 Old 02-04-2012, 02:19 PM
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The pro8200 is too bright for movies in my application: light controlled, dark walled, 100" screen. I'm working on calibrating using a red color correction filter, something I used to great effect on my last projector. Since I had the CC40R, I've tried calibrating that, but it adds too much red. I've got a pretty good looking picture at 14-15 ft-L, but it's somewhat muted given how far I've take to take the red down.

So I'm going to try a CC30R. Both act as .66 ND filters, but the red has a different effect at higher IRE's. So unlike a ND filter, which reduces light output equally across the spectrum, the red filter has the effect of increasing contrast, and the look of the black levels.

I also added a .3 ND filter (1/3 f-stop equivalent) for a total 1 stop ND. I don't think I'll need the ND filter, using Dark Room mode, which by default uses Eco on.

When I get the thing dialed in I'll post the results, for those looking to reduce lumen output below dark room for movie viewing.

I'll have to work on another calibration for TV watching, because about 25-30 f-L seems to give a bright picture with a lot of pop.

As to whether you can actually use the results, well that will depend. It's kind of luck of the draw how your particular projector will adjust, based on your room, bulb life, yada yada. You should expect to make minor adustments to both brightness, contrast, saturation and color settings.

I've thought about moving the projector back to about a 120" screen, but that means building a new screen, removing a ceiling fan that would be in the way and putting up with the picture being even lower, which means relocating my speakers and well, it's just too much work, especially since in a widescreen movie, I can just zoom a little and fill up the 4x8 sheet of Doable board I use for a screen.
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post #24 of 63 Old 02-09-2012, 12:00 PM - Thread Starter
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I updated the calibration at the top here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post21564628

After measuring with the new certified meter, I would say only Standard mode is worth calibrating due to the flatter GAMMA and easier to get a flat luminance. Really luminance and gamma are more important on this projector than the slight variances in the color gamut / CIE chart.

If you look at my calibration, it's almost perfect, a tiny bit of green error in the gray-scale, but the other stuff is so spot-on that this gray-scale error is miniscule.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I updated the calibration at the top here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post21564628

After measuring with the new certified meter, I would say only Standard mode is worth calibrating due to the flatter GAMMA and easier to get a flat luminance. Really luminance and gamma are more important on this projector than the slight variances in the color gamut / CIE chart.

If you look at my calibration, it's almost perfect, a tiny bit of green error in the gray-scale, but the other stuff is so spot-on that this gray-scale error is miniscule.

Great news about your new certified meter! You have been waiting for it forever. How is it working out for you? I will try the settings tonight ,when the sun goes down.

How does it compare to your older metering equipment? Is you old meter within spec or was it off compared to new meter?

Good idea about using Standard mode, I like that mode the best during the daytime or semi-dark environment. It has more PUNCH then the other modes out of the box. Since I don't have that many hours on my bulb, I wonder how we could adjust for that. Do you have formula that might work, like for every 100 hours drop so-and-so 5 points. Something like that.
How does the pro8200 hold up under the scrutiny of your NEW certified meter!

p.s. I see you edited the second post, can you maybe go through it to make sure only the new stuff is there in that post so I don't get confused with your earlier stuff. You may have already done it, but I'm just double-checking. Thanks for posting these settings.
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post #26 of 63 Old 02-09-2012, 01:22 PM - Thread Starter
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On a new lamp, I think you would probably need to try something closer to the reviewer's settings: Red 60, Green, 50, Blue 40 would probably get you semi-close since some reviewers measured on a new lamp, but maybe too much RED still. You could also try BSE's settings and use those for STD mode (55/38/28) or thereabouts. You could also try dropping the RED GAIN in the custom CMS down to around 60 or lower and changing the hue to 10 or so, that should help with the initial RED tint on skin tones. I also think when not calibrating with equipment, running a COOLER rather than WARMER image is your best bet as it hides some of the gray-scale error to your eyes (more blue and less red in otherwords).

I would say you REALLY should go buy an eye-one LT for $120 if you can budget it, there is free HCFR software you can download and it's very simple to use, not complicated at all. Calibrating is not really as hard as it looks, all those funny looking numbers mean are just deviations from the norm, you don't need to know them all, you just follow software and get things flat by moving controls around (that's all basic calibrating is). Anyone can do it to be honest, it doesn't take much. The old meter was off quite a bit, but it still ahd the luminance right and the color gamut was fairly close, mainly it had just drifted on the gray-scale with a BLUE error (but blue is the best error to have out of the three). So I'd say even though the old meter had a significant blue error, it was still far better than not having a meter.

I don't have any special formulas, all lamps will vary. Remember that at least in the older firmware like I have, when moving the 3 color controls (Red, Green, Blue), they often work backwards except blue I think. Lowering red is actually increasing RED, and raising RED is decreasing it (bug). Blue works as it should, lowering blue decreases, and raising increases.


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
- Quick Peak at the new upcoming calculator
**Current Projector Calculator** -- http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com

Coder's Top Projector Picks of 2012 --http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....

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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post


Remember that at least in the older firmware like I have, when moving the 3 color controls (Red, Green, Blue), they often work backwards except blue I think. Lowering red is actually increasing RED, and raising RED is decreasing it (bug). Blue works as it should, lowering blue decreases, and raising increases.

Interesting, if you have older menu system, some of the settings might only be good for someone who has your firmware,right? If you are aware that some of them are reversed on new firmware makes it hard to know if they would actually work on our new pro8200's. On individual colors,ect, how many settings are reversed, you know of a few of them.

You may be right, I might have to copy BSE53 settings because he has same firmware as me. I tried your settings but on my unit that has 69 hours on it, it is too bright and faded. Which is right, since you have a dimmer bulb than mine after 700 hours on it.

I might have to pick up the eye meter as you suggest because each projector needs personalized touch.

Let's see what type of feedback we get from people that have around 500-700 hours on their unit and have similar firmware to you.
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post #28 of 63 Old 02-09-2012, 02:18 PM - Thread Starter
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The color gamut error is probably the same or similar, just use my CMS settings and then use your own R/G/B settings. Standard mode should look fine even on a new lamp, but you may need to lower both brightness and contrast down more to compensate for it being too bright. Also try a gamma of 2 maybe or even 3 if it is still too bright. I don't know.


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
- Quick Peak at the new upcoming calculator
**Current Projector Calculator** -- http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com

Coder's Top Projector Picks of 2012 --http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....

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post #29 of 63 Old 02-10-2012, 07:35 AM
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Coderguy,
I input your values and ran HCFR. Here are the results. The picture looked pretty good, though skintones were toward the green, as my results show.

Sorry about your problems with the spectracal 6.

 

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Coderguy!
Sorry too about the hassle you have been having getting the new calibrator to work. Not sure if at this point if you can just return it and get a refund. If every bump or knock is gonna throw off the settings, who needs that, right?
Maybe since it's a new device you are still learning about it, don't know, but it must be frustrating all the same. Good luck today in sorting it all out.

BSE53!
If you get some time over the next couple of weeks if you could do a few settings for different lighting conditions that would be good for me. The settings you posted last week are very good for my unit in super dark room, but not good in semi-dark room or during the day with shades down. So maybe calibrate in those environments and post results., We both have same vintage unit, so your settings should be perfect fit for my pro8200. Thanks
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