Optoma HD65 / HD66 DLP chip replacement story - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 08-09-2012, 10:03 AM - Thread Starter
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This spring my DLP chip started getting stuck mirrors: lots of permanent black and white spots on the screen. They increased in number until they took the joy out of viewing. Then, I used this forum and found a nice link to how to disassemble my projector:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1242314/disassembling-the-hd65-a-pictorial-guide

Gaining confidence I seeked out the part I needed and found it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170828912702

I fixed my problem. In fact it worked like new thanks to some added cleaning. The image had lost some "pop" and luster and it was all back. So I breathed a sigh of relief, because disassembly involved a lot of tinkering and I wasn't confident it would even power back up!

For about a month, maybe less, this "new" chip did the job. I say "new" because, its from ebay, who knows - these could be factory seconds. Anyhow, the problem began again. This time from the corner of the chip, instead of from random spots. Now, after 4 months, well less than 500 hours I'm ordering another chip and I'm going to try again.

This process, if you do it, is certainly worth the money, but....any suggestions what I do when I replace the chip this time? Last time I did my best to not breath on the chip containment area and handled the chip as little as possible. I also blew out the accumulated dust from the fan, the light wheel and lens (before replacing the chip).

The chip came with a layer of cooling compound, which I didn't remove before installing. I didn't dare, a million little mirrors are on the other side and I couldn't find any safe way to remove that stuff. Plus it fit snuggly, it was a good fit. Replacing the cooling compound seemed pointless.

Suggestions?
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post #2 of 7 Old 08-12-2012, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Not that this thread is being read, but the chip I pointed to up there was the wrong one... I ordered it, promptly popped it in (a 45 minute job) and got a strange result: too few mirror and a graphic error. Well, it's going back and I'm not able to find the right chip anywhere for a reasonable price. Oh well, on to a new model.

Its not going to be an Optoma though. Probably a Mitsubishi or Panasonic instead.
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post #3 of 7 Old 08-16-2012, 10:21 AM
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Thanks for sharing... I would have thought a lot of H5360 or HD65 owners out there would have been all over this thread. I actually stayed away from a H5360 because of the pixel issue, but would have reconsidered if your (brave) efforts were successful, because it seemed like the perfect PJ for me. Oh well, I just bought a LG PA70G, fingers crossed it doesn't have this type of pixel dying issue (my old Optoma H27 is still going strong after almost 6 years).
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-16-2012, 06:07 PM - Thread Starter
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I think my next projector is going to come from Best Buy, for $200 they'll give you a 4-year warranty of their own which INCLUDES the cost of 1 blub replacement. So that pretty much covers the cost of 4-year warranty, plus I get a pj that'll last me for 4 years. AND they even told me that you can extend the 4 year warranty when it nears its expiration date, but directly from BB... in any case, to get a PJ that is guaranteed to work for FOUR YEARS for under $1000.

They seem to sell the Mitsubishi, Epson, Optoma and even Viewsonic.

I'm tempted by the 1080p Viewsonic PRO8200, its a pretty good value and it has a 3 year warranty, but the feedback I see on trying to cash in on the warranty isn't so positive. No matter, I would pay $180 for added 4 years including 1 bulb replacement.

I'm also tempted to throw the warranty to the wind and get a refurbed Mitsu HC4000 with a 1 year warranty for $700 from projector people. That seems like a good deal too, but I don't trust the Mitsu to run for 4 years and is that really too much to ask?
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post #5 of 7 Old 06-04-2013, 08:22 PM
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I have a question. Did you happen to examine or get any pictures of the removed chip that first failed? Did it have any identifying markings?
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-29-2013, 03:15 PM
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There's a REALLY good chance that the reason your replacement chip failed so quick is because you didn't change the thermal compound.
There's a great video on youtube of a guy doing this exact job, on an hd66 - which is what I have.
I have never had a single problem with mine and I use it constantly.


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post #7 of 7 Old 12-25-2013, 10:59 PM
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Merry Christmas and a straight thank you for all the help

 

I currently stay in Fiji and after a lot of research that factored in sites that would ship 

to this place, I purchased the Optoma HD66. It was a good buy except that 3D needs you to 

buy other specialized hardware and cables so that it is just not worth it. Had a standard 

one year warranty and after about 1 yr 8 months of life and about 850 hrs of lamp use the 

white dots problem appeared and rapidly spread to make the screen un watchable.

Googled and found other people with the same problem.

 

These were helpful sites:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1495405/possible-to-fix-white-spots-stuck-mirrors-on-a-dlp-dmd-

chip - this one

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1423907/optoma-hd65-hd66-dlp-chip-replacement-story

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJpGvrz3yR4

 

I emailed Optoma and asked if they would kindly replace the chip gratis seeing that it was a 

manufacturing defect as so many users had the same complaint - what was I thinking?

 

I even emailed the Optoma chap back that OK, you won't fix your own defective projector but 

at least tell me the correct name / number of the chip so I don't make a mistake ordering 

it. He promptly emaild me a part number that was totally totally different from the chip 

number found by other users / sellers on the Internet.

 

Anyway, I finally purchased a new DMD Chip from www.alibaba.com for USD 114/- plus shipping 

$28/-. Arrived via DHL in a week. Before ordering I had done a practice run on dismantling 

the projector and had confirmed the chip number which is: 1280-6038b.

 

Opening the projector itself is not a big deal thanks to the video tutorial. You just need 

to be handy with a screwdriver. Some tips based on my experience:

 

  • I used an ice cube tray to keep various sets of screws together and not getting mixed up, falling and disappering into the rug etc. or to minimize the one-screw-left-over-after-everything-is-closed syndrome.
  • Take frequent photos as you remove things so you can always check if they are going back in right side up.
  • Dont mess around with the color wheel.
  • If you look with a magnifying glass at the fine print on the mother board, all the connections to it are simple and logical.
  • Make sure to remove the transparent plastic covering both sides of the thermal paste before sticking it in.
  • Make sure to lock the chip in place in its socket by giving the locking screw a half turn. I didn't do this and this resulted in me assembling disassembling the thing at least 10 times, by which time I could do it with one hand holding my beer!
  • Finally the last thing. The DMD Chip came to me not factory sealed in plastic but just wrapped in bubble wrap. It had dust / plastic particles on it visible to the naked eye. No amount of cleaning with air, cloth, cotton buds etc. would make them disappear and on installation they would appear as big blobs / smears on the screen. No help from google

 

This is how I finally cleaned  the DMD chip: Note that the millions of pivoting mirrors are covered over with a protective glass.

 

  • I took a 10 cc syringe, filled it with tap water and attached to it a 19 G needle (medical). I held the DMD chip in my left hand with the glass side facing the ground slanted at an angle. Very carefully I squirted a thin jet of water onto the glass surface and allowed it to drip down. 
  • Then very gently I wiped the surface with a clean microfiber cloth. Just once or twice. No water on anything else except glass. Took all of 30 seconds and the chip was clean as a whistle. Installed it and the picture was picture perfect.

 

 

The image now seems brighter than before.

 

Cheers and thanks for all the fish.

 

armuavs

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