OK, coderguy, some great advice; I thank you. I'm not real familiar with FI -- don't know the advantages, with respect to watching sports. I have read some stuff that says just what you said, though, that it gives a "live" look to movies that is very artificial...
I have no idea if I'd be sensitive to the RBE or not, so I'd rather simply avoid it if I could; even if I personally would not be sensitive to it, others who watch (wife, daughter, guests) might be. This is an issue (RBE) JUST on DLP units, and mostly only on the ones with 3x color wheels?
So, NO to my top choice, the 6100...darn. However, the Mitsubishi hc3800 is also very nicely priced, and you said several things about it that I like (reliability, good for motion, good black levels, AND that it would be good for my small screen).
One question...back when I started this project 2 1/2 years ago, the projector I had decided on was an Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 720. I don't remember all the reasons, but I researched it pretty hard, and for my budget, that was my choice. I KNOW it would "fit" in my room, but I have no idea if this one will "fit" -- and don't know how "lens shift" affects the equation.
I saw that you have a "projector calculator" link on your signature; I checked it out but it was a little complicated, and a bit hard for me to understand. Here is a different calculator I used back when I had planned on the Epson 720...
With my screen size, and the location I intended to mount that projector at (16 feet from the screen), that 16' distance fell well within the "throw range" of that projector, so I presumed I was "good." From another set of calculations (I think this was when I calculated my riser height, etc.), I had decided that the "right" screen height for my room was 33" from the floor to the bottom of the screen.
Now, when I plug these numbers into that calculator you have linked, (or the one I had used before, for that matter), and plug in the Mitsubishi 3800, I seem to have issues. First of all, it would seem that my ceiling height is not high enough to have a screen bottom 33" from the floor. I'd have to lower the screen -- which I think throws off other
things (the riser height, etc.) IIRC. Then, it would seem that the calculator suggests that I would need to mount that projector considerably closer to the screen -- ideally 12', but no more than 14'. That's not good, as I already have the electrical box that has the HDMI cable in it, set in the ceiling at 16' from the screen, with no way to move it.
Hmm...I think I am running into these issues because of the "no lens shift" thing you mentioned, and limited zoom ability on the Mitsubishi? Interestingly, when I enter the Epson 6100 into your calculator, it would seem that my 16' distance, and 33" bottom of screen, would work fine, except that I'd have to use some "lens shift" in order to mount the unit close to the ceiling, which I prefer (otherwise, to have no "lens shift," it appears I'd need a 15" mount pole, which I'd like to avoid). Is there anything "negative," in general, about using "lens shift" so as to adjust your projector placement? Is it "more ideal," image-wise, to use NO lens shift?
Am I correct that it appears the Mitsubishi would not work well in my room (would have to lower the screen considerably, and move the mount point considerably closer to the screen?)