Official Epson Home Cinema 3020 Thread - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 1119 Old 04-18-2013, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnabq View Post

so around $400 more vs a 3020. I'd pay the difference.
If I had come across a brand-new 5020 ($2599.99) for only $400.00 more than a 3020 ($1599.99) I would have purchased it. Seems to me there is no less than $1000.00 to (maybe) $800.00 difference?
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post #722 of 1119 Old 04-18-2013, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

If I had come across a brand-new 5020 ($2599.99) for only $400.00 more than a 3020 ($1599.99) I would have purchased it. Seems to me there is no less than $1000.00 to (maybe) $800.00 difference?

As I stated earlier, it depends on your room and your source material. If you're mostly watching in a dark room then it *may* make sense to go for the UB. I mostly watch DVR in my den, so the extra blacks is just not worth the money. Also note that the 3020 doesn't have a lens shift.
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post #723 of 1119 Old 04-18-2013, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

If I had come across a brand-new 5020 ($2599.99) for only $400.00 more than a 3020 ($1599.99) I would have purchased it. Seems to me there is no less than $1000.00 to (maybe) $800.00 difference?

"Last years 5010 can be found for around $2k, so around $400 more vs a 3020", I wasn't comparing the price to a 5020, which is as you stated, about $1k more. My post may have been confusing I guess?
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post #724 of 1119 Old 04-18-2013, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

If I had come across a brand-new 5020 ($2599.99) for only $400.00 more than a 3020 ($1599.99) I would have purchased it. Seems to me there is no less than $1000.00 to (maybe) $800.00 difference?

Quote:
Originally Posted by exm View Post

As I stated earlier, it depends on your room and your source material. If you're mostly watching in a dark room then it *may* make sense to go for the UB. I mostly watch DVR in my den, so the extra blacks is just not worth the money. Also note that the 3020 doesn't have a lens shift.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jnabq View Post

"Last years 5010 can be found for around $2k, so around $400 more vs a 3020", I wasn't comparing the price to a 5020, which is as you stated, about $1k more. My post may have been confusing I guess?

Thanks for your thoughts, I have found the 5020ub for 2495, w shipping and the 3020 for 1435 w shipping, I do have a dedicated room and have It lit in such a way that my 8350's blacks are as dark as you can imagine, I think the 3020 is where Im going, Lens shift is not a big deal. I have a shelf now, and can adjust the feet to get it set up right. So those dont really carry weight in my decision, I don't think the thx is going to make that much diff to me. the 3010 doesnt have the standard 3d rf for the universal glasses. so thats out, Im going to get some samsung 4100s

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post #725 of 1119 Old 04-18-2013, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailorb View Post

I have found the 5020ub for 2495, w shipping and the 3020 for 1435 w shipping, I do have a dedicated room and have It lit in such a way that my 8350's blacks are as dark as you can imagine, I think the 3020 is where Im going, Lens shift is not a big deal. I have a shelf now, and can adjust the feet to get it set up right. So those dont really carry weight in my decision, I don't think the thx is going to make that much diff to me. the 3010 doesnt have the standard 3d rf for the universal glasses. so thats out, Im going to get some samsung 4100s
$1435.00 for the 3020 is a great price, wish I got that deal (I went Crutchfield, aka "full-retail" smile.gif )

I'm excited to get my system and projector up-and-running now. I have a lot of work to do, and it may be another month or two before I'm able to see what this projector can do. This delay has just been too long (like over a year or more).

My room is on the smallish side (11.2ft X 11.0ft X 8.0ft ceiling). It serves as office and man-cave. It has somewhat darker-than-usual walls. It has one odd window, which is used sporadically. So the average lighting is mixed. Although I watch movies primarily at night (when it is dark). So I figure the 3020 should work fine.
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post #726 of 1119 Old 04-19-2013, 07:33 AM
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Depends how much money you got to burn. Seems like a really dark room would benefit from better black levels. But the 3020 is amazing. I have the 3020e (wireless!) in my living room and it's perfect for that. So bright! Got it for a sweet deal of $1592.
If you can position your projector exactly, the lens shift isn't needed.
I'm keystoning just a couple of points just because the pipe I got to hang down from the ceiling is a little too long (so the projector is too low) but I don't notice any quality difference. I have an 8 foot ceiling and should have hung it as flush as possible but instead it's about 6 inches down. No big deal.
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post #727 of 1119 Old 04-19-2013, 07:36 AM
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However, what has shown up in the last day or two are these infamous 4 BLUE RECTANGLES on the bottom of the screen! I've seen this mentioned on this thread. Need to go back and search the topic. I hope there's a solution! It'd be such a pain to send this back.
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post #728 of 1119 Old 04-19-2013, 07:47 AM
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Ok, those blue rectangles seem related to the wireless HDMI box. After unplugging and replugging that box, the blue rectangles have gone away.
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post #729 of 1119 Old 04-19-2013, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyJammy View Post

Ok, those blue rectangles seem related to the wireless HDMI box. After unplugging and replugging that box, the blue rectangles have gone away.
interesting, that's good to know it went away.

When did you purchase your 3020? Very recently? Or months back?
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post #730 of 1119 Old 04-19-2013, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

$1435.00 for the 3020 is a great price, wish I got that deal (I went Crutchfield, aka "full-retail" smile.gif )

I'm excited to get my system and projector up-and-running now. I have a lot of work to do, and it may be another month or two before I'm able to see what this projector can do. This delay has just been too long (like over a year or more).

My room is on the smallish side (11.2ft X 11.0ft X 8.0ft ceiling). It serves as office and man-cave. It has somewhat darker-than-usual walls. It has one odd window, which is used sporadically. So the average lighting is mixed. Although I watch movies primarily at night (when it is dark). So I figure the 3020 should work fine.

Use the Epson Loyalty Program. Call them to get a number, and you can get a $200 or so discount AND you purchase directly from Epson (handy for any warranty claims).
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post #731 of 1119 Old 04-19-2013, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by exm View Post

Use the Epson Loyalty Program. Call them to get a number, and you can get a $200 or so discount AND you purchase directly from Epson (handy for any warranty claims).
thanks, I wish I knew this before I purchased from Crutchfield. I actually prefer to order direct from manufacturer
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post #732 of 1119 Old 04-20-2013, 01:04 PM
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I bought my 3020e about five weeks ago, to answer your question.
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post #733 of 1119 Old 04-20-2013, 05:30 PM
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Can someone explain what issues 3020 users are having with the sony 590 blu ray player? I have this player and I am about to order the 3020. I will be running the 590 to my sony dh720 receiver then to the 3020 via a 25 ft hdmi Monster cable.Thanks in advance
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post #734 of 1119 Old 04-20-2013, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by neverfinished94 View Post

Can someone explains what issues 3020 users are having with the sony 590 blu ray player? I have this player and I am about to order the 3020. I will be running the 590 to my sony dh720 receiver then to the 3020 via a 25 ft hdmi Monster cable.Thanks in advance

A search of the thread didn't reveal anyone posting a problem. Where did the info come from. This poster isn't having any issue with it. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1433899/official-epson-home-cinema-3020-thread/360#post_22838464
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post #735 of 1119 Old 04-20-2013, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by racprops View Post

Talked with Epson Tech support, asked about the green line and was told it should be just like the red and blue lines.

FYI

Anyone have any problems with their projector and a 3D BR Player??

My Sony does not like my Epson...they do not play well together.

Rich
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Originally Posted by ngwest36 View Post

I have a 1 x 2 switcher (powered) so I can take the output from my AVR and direct it to my TV or projector. On some 3D movies I have to unplug the output to the TV to get the sony BD player to handshake with the projector.
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post #736 of 1119 Old 04-20-2013, 07:35 PM
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Sounds like they had hdmi handshake issues, that may, or may not affect you and your configuration. About the best you can do is to make sure the player firmware is updated, and use appropriate cables, (thickness and spec), for the length of cable run you need to make.
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post #737 of 1119 Old 04-21-2013, 10:35 PM
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Here's a weird question. Has anyone found a hard case or padded bag to allow you to take the 3020 with you? I picked up a new 3020 at BB this past week and really love it and intend to use it at both our main house and our vacation house, so I won't be permanently mounting it. I got a 132" travel screen and hope to use it on our deck and/or where-ever it would be fun to use. I'm sourcing from a PS3, laptop and XBox360, depending on the situation/need.

Any thoughts?

thanks!
-Richard
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post #738 of 1119 Old 04-21-2013, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSouthern View Post

Here's a weird question. Has anyone found a hard case or padded bag to allow you to take the 3020 with you? I picked up a new 3020 at BB this past week and really love it and intend to use it at both our main house and our vacation house, so I won't be permanently mounting it. I got a 132" travel screen and hope to use it on our deck and/or where-ever it would be fun to use. I'm sourcing from a PS3, laptop and XBox360, depending on the situation/need.

Any thoughts?

thanks!
-Richard
Look at Pelican cases. I use them for calibration gear, and audio. You can get them off of amazon, or find them used on Craigslist.
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post #739 of 1119 Old 04-22-2013, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by neverfinished94 View Post


I ended up with two electronic switches that protect the Sony and the Projector from a pair of machinal switches that let me make a direct hard line from the Sony to the 3020 thought only one 2 to 1 electronic switcher to allow the system to play 3D Blu-Ray disks.

Rich

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post #740 of 1119 Old 04-24-2013, 06:54 AM
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Does anyone have any good tips for calibrating the 3D mode? I have the Disney WOW disc and have calibrated for 2D already. For some reason the color just looks off in 3D. I am using an HTPC with Nvidia card and when I switch to the 720p 24hz resolution the screen takes on a reddish tint.
Plus toggling the 3D settings (depth) between the Projector and the PowerDVD software can be maddening! Its hard to know which one to adjust, the PJ 3D depth or the Software players 3D depth setting...
Equipment:
Epson 3020
Samsung Glasses
HTPC with Nvidia GT430
PowerDVD12
Arcsoft TMT 6

Even if someone could post their 3D settings that might be a good start.

Thanks for the help.
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post #741 of 1119 Old 04-24-2013, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mflanagan View Post

Does anyone have any good tips for calibrating the 3D mode? I have the Disney WOW disc and have calibrated for 2D already. For some reason the color just looks off in 3D. I am using an HTPC with Nvidia card and when I switch to the 720p 24hz resolution the screen takes on a reddish tint.
Plus toggling the 3D settings (depth) between the Projector and the PowerDVD software can be maddening! Its hard to know which one to adjust, the PJ 3D depth or the Software players 3D depth setting...
Equipment:
Epson 3020
Samsung Glasses
HTPC with Nvidia GT430
PowerDVD12
Arcsoft TMT 6

Even if someone could post their 3D settings that might be a good start.

Thanks for the help.
Flan


I've done a lot of research into this. And if you have the ability to play the file, or burn the .iso bluray disc. I made one simple basic one,
which will work well with the DISNEY WOW BLUE FILTER.

Here's the info from this post from months ago.


SOLOFORCE 3D Blu-Ray Calibration Pattern Disc for 3D Blu-Ray Players
(will throw your projector into 3D AUTO mode) Image will look 2D except for OPENING title.
IT WILL SWITCH DEPTHS. BECOME GHOSTY cause of the BRIGHT LETTERS ON BLACK. (Normal)

If you know how to calibrate your TV/Projector, and have the BLUE FILTER Lens
(Like the one from the WOW disc) you will be able to Calibrate COLOUR, and TINT, more accurately.

This is the link for the .ISO. Burn this to a BLU-RAY Disc, with the proper .ISO burning program...and you are set.

http://netload.in/dateiC6mazm1glI/SoloForce3D.iso.htm



SOLOFORCE 3D Calibration Pattern .MKV file for SBS Mode on your TV/PROJECTOR
Switch your TV/PROJECTOR into SIDE BY SIDE MODE when using this file.
Some Blu-Ray Players with USB accept .MKV Files. or Media Centers.
Note: The 3D settings for your projector are different when using SBS or AUTO.
The only way to calibrate in AUTO is with a 3D Blu-Ray Calibration Disc as above.
(That's what I've found anyway)

This is the link for the .MKV file for SIDE BY SIDE Calibration.

http://netload.in/dateiLmKS5nfC4d/SoloForce3DCALIBRATIONSBS1080.mkv.htm



SOLOFORCE 3D Calibration Pattern .M2TS file for SBS Mode on your TV/PROJECTOR
All the same information about the .MKV file but in .M2TS format.
.M2TS formats can play from a USB on your playstation 3. And again this is for SIDE BY SIDE Mode

This is the link for the .M2TS file for SIDE BY SIDE Calibration.

http://netload.in/datei5XWWgRzRsq/SoloForce3DCALIBRATIONSBS1080.m2ts.htm


GOOD LUCK!!!

iMIKE THEATRE
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post #742 of 1119 Old 04-28-2013, 06:47 PM
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Hoping someone can help me out here. It's a stupid question but I can't seem to figure this out. I just setup my Epson 3020 projector and plugged the charging cable in to the glasses. The glasses are charged up and ready to go, but I can't seem to get the USB cable out of the glasses??? I don't want to pull them too hard, but I checked my other cable that came with the 2nd pair and it does look like there are locking teeth on the cable.

Do I have to apply pressure to a certain part of the glasses to get the cable out?
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post #743 of 1119 Old 04-28-2013, 10:43 PM
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Mine just pulled out, yes they are tight..but just pull a little hard and then a little hard until they pull out straight.

I have recharged mine a couple of times.

ALSO to check on battery life hold the pairing button down until you get a readout on the screen with the number of hours left.

Rich

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post #744 of 1119 Old 04-30-2013, 01:23 PM
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thanks rich,

i was able to get the cable out... the clips were actually stuck and they weren't moving down. Had to use some needle nose pliers to get them to start moving. thanks for the tip on the battery life, i'll try it out!
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post #745 of 1119 Old 05-06-2013, 04:25 AM
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So I'm about to buy this projector and I'd like to know more about how it performs as far as frame interpolation goes for 24p material (and 3D mode 24p material as well)

This is what I read on projectorreviews.com:
"The Home Cinema 3020 has simple 2:2 frame interpolation. That will run your 24 fps movie at 48, which helps some folks out, with a type of motion smoothing , that doesn't impact most folks. What people find these days on higher end projectors is typically CFI, where a unique frame is created between each two regular ones (or sometimes 3 frames between each pair)...

This Epson only has the basic 2:2 pull-down, not CFI. Mind you the Epson Home Cinema 8350, Mitsubishi HC4000 and other popular projectors around the price range all lack CFI. It's a feature typically starting on slightly more expensive projectors, right around $2000"



Can anyone chime in with their experience either positive or negative with FI on this projector?

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post #746 of 1119 Old 05-08-2013, 08:36 PM
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Hi, Gamermwm . . .

If you are someone who really loves the look of the "soap opera" effect that using the higher amounts of the effect, then the 3020 won't be what you want. Having said this, I don't really like the effect - beyond just a hint of it with the settings turned up slightly.

I had a 3020 that I sold - I have an Epson 5010 where I have it either turned off - or just slightly turned up. I also have the new BenQ W1070 which offer CFI (due to its sub $1,000 price point). But since the image from the BenQ offers a great pic - with motion handling that is fantastic, I don't miss it.

I work as a camera operator in film and television - and it's clear that some folks who I work with either love CFI . . . or hate it. When working with elements shot at 24 fps, you should expect to see some judder in the material if you are a film fan. The simple 2:2 pull-down is okay, but it doesn't look any different to me than a projector not having any "pull-down helper" offered.

Of the three units, I would rank my BenQ over my Epson 5010 and the 3020 any day, since it offers better color out-of-the-box and has the motion handling where the better pic (personal option here) makes up for not offering any sort of frame interpolation.

Again, if you are used to using this feature - and love it - then it's a must have for you. But, I know that I'm not the first person (there are folks who do reviews for televisions who hate CFI and don't engage the feature) who simply either uses it sparingly or not at all.

Hope this helps.

Ian
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post #747 of 1119 Old 05-09-2013, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teeger View Post

Hi, Gamermwm . . .

If you are someone who really loves the look of the "soap opera" effect that using the higher amounts of the effect, then the 3020 won't be what you want. Having said this, I don't really like the effect - beyond just a hint of it with the settings turned up slightly.

I had a 3020 that I sold - I have an Epson 5010 where I have it either turned off - or just slightly turned up. I also have the new BenQ W1070 which offer CFI (due to its sub $1,000 price point). But since the image from the BenQ offers a great pic - with motion handling that is fantastic, I don't miss it.

I work as a camera operator in film and television - and it's clear that some folks who I work with either love CFI . . . or hate it. When working with elements shot at 24 fps, you should expect to see some judder in the material if you are a film fan. The simple 2:2 pull-down is okay, but it doesn't look any different to me than a projector not having any "pull-down helper" offered.

Of the three units, I would rank my BenQ over my Epson 5010 and the 3020 any day, since it offers better color out-of-the-box and has the motion handling where the better pic (personal option here) makes up for not offering any sort of frame interpolation.

Ian

Thanks for the answer, but I was unaware that the BenQ had any kind of FI. I'm new to projectors but I do know that I want the brightest possible picture for 3D so I'm leaning toward LCD projectors. As far as the 3020 it seems to have the best specs for the price range, but the things that worry me are only having 2:2 pull down and the lamp life problems I've read about. I may consider the Panasonic AE8000 now, depending on what I read about it. I'm just trying to learn all I can so that I'm happy with whatever decision I make

I was worried that the 3020's 2:2 pull down wouldn't be sufficient for 3D motion. I watch a lot of 3D and have seen just how much of a positive effect a little FI can have to reduce jerkiness in fast moving scenes. If the Epson can accomplish this to a decent level I would be satisfied to go out and buy one

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post #748 of 1119 Old 05-09-2013, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamermwm View Post

Thanks for the answer, but I was unaware that the BenQ had any kind of FI. I'm new to projectors but I do know that I want the brightest possible picture for 3D so I'm leaning toward LCD projectors. As far as the 3020 it seems to have the best specs for the price range, but the things that worry me are only having 2:2 pull down and the lamp life problems I've read about. I may consider the Panasonic AE8000 now, depending on what I read about it. I'm just trying to learn all I can so that I'm happy with whatever decision I make

I was worried that the 3020's 2:2 pull down wouldn't be sufficient for 3D motion. I watch a lot of 3D and have seen just how much of a positive effect a little FI can have to reduce jerkiness in fast moving scenes. If the Epson can accomplish this to a decent level I would be satisfied to go out and buy one

Sorry if I was confusing in my answer. The 3020, as you know, offers the 2:2 pulldown (which to me looks like an projector NOT having any sort of CFI like feature). The BenQ is what I purchased after taking my 3020 back . . . and it is, in my opinion, light years ahead of the 3020 for color, motion handling and sharpness by a long shot. Contrast ratio and brightness of the 3020 vs. W1070 are too close for me to say one has the advantage here over the other - they are both light cannons, for sure.

The cheaper projectors (BenQ and the 3020 included) don't offer really anything approaching the true CFI that you would get with the Epson 5010, 5020, 6020, etc. As I mentioned, when I use my 5010 - I keep the CFI either at the lowest setting or off. The point is - if you don't want to spend over $2,000 to get a projector with CFI, I don't think you really need to UNLESS you are really sold on CFI -- I'm not (but some are).

Check out the thread here for the BenQ W1070 and do a search for the reviews for this unit too. Some folks might not like it if they are sensitive to the "rainbow effect" caused by the color wheel that comes with the DLP technology.

I am an Epson owner who has, like quite a few here, had far too many issues with bad panel alignment - with the same (and other) issues that continue with replacement units.

I wish you all the best getting a great projector that gives you many great nights at the movies - all in the comfort or your own home! Can't beat that!

Ian
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post #749 of 1119 Old 05-09-2013, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by teeger View Post

Sorry if I was confusing in my answer. The 3020, as you know, offers the 2:2 pulldown (which to me looks like an projector NOT having any sort of CFI like feature). The BenQ is what I purchased after taking my 3020 back . . . and it is, in my opinion, light years ahead of the 3020 for color, motion handling and sharpness by a long shot. Contrast ratio and brightness of the 3020 vs. W1070 are too close for me to say one has the advantage here over the other - they are both light cannons, for sure.

The cheaper projectors (BenQ and the 3020 included) don't offer really anything approaching the true CFI that you would get with the Epson 5010, 5020, 6020, etc. As I mentioned, when I use my 5010 - I keep the CFI either at the lowest setting or off. The point is - if you don't want to spend over $2,000 to get a projector with CFI, I don't think you really need to UNLESS you are really sold on CFI -- I'm not (but some are).

Check out the thread here for the BenQ W1070 and do a search for the reviews for this unit too. Some folks might not like it if they are sensitive to the "rainbow effect" caused by the color wheel that comes with the DLP technology.

I am an Epson owner who has, like quite a few here, had far too many issues with bad panel alignment - with the same (and other) issues that continue with replacement units.

I wish you all the best getting a great projector that gives you many great nights at the movies - all in the comfort or your own home! Can't beat that!

Ian

Thanks Ian,

Yeah I was a bit confused. I had never really heard of 2:2 pulldown. But from what you said, the effect on the 3020 is really not noticeable, which I took to mean that it was either really not that effective, or that it did a well enough job that you didn't notice much judder

I'm really only concerned about motion in 24p content, and more than that, really only for 3D viewing. For 2D 24p content I really don't care for it as much. But I watch a lot of 3D and thats why I'm getting a projector for a more immerse experience

I had an exchange last year from a Samsung LED which didn't have Auto Motion Plus in 3D, to a ES8000 the next year which allowed you to enable it in 3D. And the difference was substantial. Especially in 3D movies with a lot of fast panning, and action scenes with a lot of motion, I didn't notice the judder which before seemed to be quite a bit more disorienting in 3D

And now on the 2013 Samsung sets, it has been said that even if you turn off auto motion plus, there is still some motion interpolation going on in 3D mode. It just seems to me that it's one of the improvements that technicians devoloping 3D display technology today think is neccesary. And having seen how important it is, and how much better it makes the experience, I also think it is vital. That's why its perplexing to me that more affordable 3D LCD projectors don't offer it when you can go out and get a cheap $500 hdtv that does offer FI

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post #750 of 1119 Old 05-16-2013, 01:34 PM
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I'll try to keep this from getting too convoluted. My setup consists of HTPC > VSX-820 > Epson 3020. I have everything working absolutely perfectly except 3D.

My video card is a GTS 450.

I go to nVidia Control Panel and enable Stereoscopic Vision. I go to resolution and under 3D I select, 1024 x 720 60Hz. I open up a SBS 3D MKV in TMT6 and I get perfect 3D 720p playback at 60Hz. Now when I go to nVidia Control Panel again to select a 2D resolution (1920 x 1080 @ 60Hz), my screen goes black for a second and I get two overlapped 1920 x 480 images in the center of the screen. Looking through each eye of the 3D glasses gives me a different picture for each eye. I then have to "refresh" the HDMI input on the Epson 3020 by selecting HDMI 2 and switching back to HDMI 1. So switching to 720p 3D from 2D 1080p works perfectly. But switching back to 2D 1080p from 3D 720p forces me to jump through a few hoops. I can live with this.

The real issues begin with 1080p 3D. Switching from 2D 1080p60 to 3D 1080p24 doesn't work at all. My projector looks like its switching but then the screen goes completely black and stays that way. I have to plug the PC into a monitor to get it out of that.

The real kicker is I had it working for about 5 mins before. Then when I switched back to 2D and tried getting it back it stopped working completely.

I've tried using nVidia's 314 drivers and even rolled back to 310.90 to no avail. I don't know what else to do. I don't want to settle for 720p 3D playback when the projector is capable of 1080p 3D.

Any ideas?
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