Official Epson Home Cinema 3020 Thread - Page 37 - AVS Forum
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post #1081 of 1100 Old 06-03-2014, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by HorrorScope View Post

I don't believe noise is an issue for me. What would be the next step up in DLP to gain additional black levels? Thanks.
It won't necessarily be a step up, but there are many less color accurate (but generally acceptable) DLPs that have inherently darker black levels because they use lower wattage lamps or LED light-sources. However, with the current price of the Benq (cheap as ever), and the fool-proof accuracy and all-around pleasantness and clarity of its image..I'd still recommend the w1070 over most of its competition. Unless you can find a Mitsubishi 7900..that'll be quieter, darker, and use cheaper lamps (two of three things that don't really matter for you), and its formerly higher-end price got cleared out for around $800, but they are pretty much only found used/refurbished now.

The noise and close-ish zoom and black-level are the only real cons for the w1070; the first two don't affect you, and the black-level (which requires MUCH higher contrast to improve) isn't meaningfully beat until you pass the $2000 range or find a used/refurbished model that was formerly in the $2000+ range. Sounds like the w1070 is a good fit for you.

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post #1082 of 1100 Old 06-10-2014, 02:06 PM
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Hello. I am asking this here to hopefully get some responses supposing the Epson 3020 and the 2030 are the same placement wise. Would really appreciate you help.

I have a 5030 projector and as I am loving the "projector experience" a new interest of watching everything on a big screen has grown to me so I am looking for a cheaper projector to use it on a daily basis (about 2 hours per day) and the 5030 for movie watching on the weekends.

I use my 5030 on a shelf that that if I were to draw an imaginary line from the lens projector to the screen said imaginary line would be just 8 inches shy from the center of the screen (my screen is a 135" with a total height, incluiding frame, of 70 inches). Horizontal wise the projector would be also about 8-10 inches from the center. The shelf is about 14-15 foot from the screen and placing the projecto in said shelf will make the projector to be about 4.4 feet from the ground.

I can center the image with the 5030 using it's lens shiffting features with no problem at all.

My question is: Even though the 2030 has no lens shiftting can I place it in the shelf where I place the 5030 and manage to adjust the image (vertically and horizontally) using keystone or other methods? I have read that projectors without lens shiffting can only be placed either high on the ceiling or in a low coffee table but no at the middle of the road (almost the same distance from the floor than to the ceiling) but would like to know if the 2030 would allow my shelf positioning.

Thank you!!
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post #1083 of 1100 Old 06-10-2014, 04:37 PM
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Why not put that $$$ you'd be spending on a 3020/2030 toward the future replacement lamp on your 5030? It'll save money, convenience, AND give a far superior picture. 2Hours per day isn't bad at all and shouldn't burn through 5030 lamps very fast. That plus your usual weekend movies will still be less than 1000hours per year.

If I were you, I'd enjoy that 5030 into the ground, then put the money saved by buying lamps instead of an entry-level PJ into a new high-end model to replace the 5030 in 8-10years. Either way, in 5+ years you'll be itching to try something new, but using just the 5030 will save several hundred and give you an excuse to upgrade when the time comes.
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post #1084 of 1100 Old 06-10-2014, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post

Why not put that $$$ you'd be spending on a 3020/2030 toward the future replacement lamp on your 5030? It'll save money, convenience, AND give a far superior picture. 2Hours per day isn't bad at all and shouldn't burn through 5030 lamps very fast. That plus your usual weekend movies will still be less than 1000hours per year.

If I were you, I'd enjoy that 5030 into the ground, then put the money saved by buying lamps instead of an entry-level PJ into a new high-end model to replace the 5030 in 8-10years. Either way, in 5+ years you'll be itching to try something new, but using just the 5030 will save several hundred and give you an excuse to upgrade when the time comes.

Your post sounds very logical to me. Even if I had to change the lamp every year because of my usage, at $300 per lamp (I think that's the cost) it wouldn't be that bad because then it meant that I really enjoy the projector. My only grip, and I don't know if I may be wrong because I don't have any experience with projectors, is that if I am to use the 5030 on said daily basis if I would shorten not only the lamp life but also the projector's life itself. If I were to pay, as I said, $300 per year for a new lamp every year that's ok, but if for daily using my projector I would "kill it" in about 2 years I does not sound good at all to have to pay every 2 years up to $3000 instead of paying now $1000 for a "cheaper" projector to use it and use it worst case scenario "killing it" in 2 years but keeping my 5030 "alive"... I don't know if projectors work really that way.
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post #1085 of 1100 Old 06-10-2014, 07:47 PM
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There are a couple things that can shorten their lifespan, like blocking the vents or unplugging it without letting the fan cool-down period happen. Besides that, the projector should last 10+ year's and it's no problem for them to run 3-4hours every day.

DO let it go through its entire minute long cool down. Don't run it if you think there could be a power-outage during a storm. You'll probably sell it on the used market before it actually dies. smile.gif
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post #1086 of 1100 Old 07-04-2014, 05:47 PM
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Happy 4th of July !
I could pick up the 3020 used for 550$ with new lamp is there anything i should look for ?
I think its a good price,maybe too good ?
Thanks
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post #1087 of 1100 Old 07-04-2014, 09:51 PM
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Can you demo the unit?

If so check for blinking lights on the unit. Once lit up look for discoloration on the startup screen.

Engage the auto iris and listen. If it sounds like a noisy hard drive from the 90's you'll probably have to do with the iris off. Some noise is normal, but it shouldn't be audible over the movie's soundtrack.  This problem was more prevalent with the 3010.

Also you will want to turn the test pattern on. Focus the pattern till you can see individual pixels distinctly. Walk over to the screen and see if you see a halo effect. The pixels may have a smeared looking shadow. This is a known defect on some units. If it is minor, then it won't be visible with motion picture. If it's smeared over five pixels wide you may not be able to achieve a sharp picture.

It is possible to reset the lamp hours. So to find out how many real hours the pj has seen read my post here:

Official Epson Home Cinema 3020 Thread

Even with high hours that's still a smokin' good deal. Good luck.
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post #1088 of 1100 Old 07-05-2014, 12:54 PM
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Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by fokakis1 View Post
Can you demo the unit?

If so check for blinking lights on the unit. Once lit up look for discoloration on the startup screen.

Engage the auto iris and listen. If it sounds like a noisy hard drive from the 90's you'll probably have to do with the iris off. Some noise is normal, but it shouldn't be audible over the movie's soundtrack. This problem was more prevalent with the 3010.

Also you will want to turn the test pattern on. Focus the pattern till you can see individual pixels distinctly. Walk over to the screen and see if you see a halo effect. The pixels may have a smeared looking shadow. This is a known defect on some units. If it is minor, then it won't be visible with motion picture. If it's smeared over five pixels wide you may not be able to achieve a sharp picture.

It is possible to reset the lamp hours. So to find out how many real hours the pj has seen read my post here:

Official Epson Home Cinema 3020 Thread

Even with high hours that's still a smokin' good deal. Good luck.
Thanks for your quick response, I hope I can demo the unit and I'll look for the things you mentioned.
Thx
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post #1089 of 1100 Old 07-08-2014, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stego40 View Post
I was expecting my 720p appletv to be a little bad, but have to say from 9 ft away on 84 inches, it looks pretty good
can you approx. measure your actual picture size when viewing (at 09:00ft distance)? I'm very curious, being my 3020 is ceiling mounted at 9.0ft viewing distance as well. (as I mention previously I'm using an Elite VMAX2 92in diag., electronically retractable screen).
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post #1090 of 1100 Old 07-13-2014, 12:13 PM
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Epson 3020 : HD cable is cropped

First post here!

Love the projector. I have it for over a year, using it very intensely, daily tv use, lots of movies on blu ray, gaming, 3D, Apple TV. It's all fantastic and lamp life seems very good. Beside the noisy auto-iris, I cant really find anything wrong with it.

My only serious issue is that the image comes out cropped from full HD when the input is my cable box. My provider uses the Cisco Explorer 8642HD, and the setting is 1080i. The projector doesn't let me change the scale when it uses cable as input, the function is greyed out. I have tried about everything I could think of, with no results. Basically I'm loosing maybe 15% on each side (from what I can see when I can't read the text of certain shows, or scores of games.

Any ideas?
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post #1091 of 1100 Old 08-23-2014, 05:30 AM
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overheating when watching videos from computer only

I have having an issue where the projector runs fine watching either cable or playstation content. When I switch over to videos streaming from my Mac connected via hdmi the projector overheats after 20 minutes or so and shuts off.

any ideas why youtube videos would cause an issue when other sources don't? thanks
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post #1092 of 1100 Old 08-23-2014, 07:44 AM
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Does the projector shut off completely or just go black? Have the same problem with my imac connected directly to my 8350. No issue whatsoever when the same content runs through the AppleTV. It seems Apple's computers streams the raw data to the projector, which forces the hdmi chip in the projector to do all the decoding work. The videos from AppleTV, cable, and playstation had all the decoding done (the heavy lifting) in their respective units before streaming the data to the projector. The projector only has to pass the data through without having to deal with decoding. I ran this problem through my second floor neighbors brain (he's an Apple Genius at the 14 street apple store in manhattan) and he thinks I'm probably right.
I'm no expert in this realm, so i could be dead wrong. Anybody else can chime in on this who knows more than i do?
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post #1093 of 1100 Old 08-23-2014, 08:22 AM
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the screen goes black (lamp shut off) and the red light on the projector turns on indicating an overheating issue. I am going to look into your theory as that seems logical. I am sending the signal to an A/V receiver so I want to look into why the receiver isn't doing anything with the decoding?
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post #1094 of 1100 Old 09-20-2014, 11:46 AM
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I just bought the Epson 3020e and so far i've been projecting the image on the white wall of my living room, giving me a nice bright image.

I will be projecting a 120" inch image from 15 feet out. During the day there is some light in the room, but ultimately I want to watch movies at night when it's completely dark. My ceiling is white so it reflects some light in room and alter the experience a little bit... I heard the grey screen could actually help with this ? And that during the day the screen would actually be brighter and more contrasted with the grey screen ?

I've called the place where I bought my screen and I could still exchange the screen for a 120 inch grey 0.8. I know that it will give me a better image during daylight, but what about at night when it's completely dark ?

I've read somewhere that for movie watching i'd better be going with a grey screen.... That it gives better contrast and better blacks... But i've also read about the screen door effect...Ultimately I want the best image to watch movies.

I know i'm all over the place with this thread, but I would really like some help on this question....

Grey (0.8) or White (1.3) 120" Manual Projection Screen ?

Thanks a lot.
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post #1095 of 1100 Old 09-20-2014, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybobwong View Post
I just bought the Epson 3020e and so far i've been projecting the image on the white wall of my living room, giving me a nice bright image.

I will be projecting a 120" inch image from 15 feet out. During the day there is some light in the room, but ultimately I want to watch movies at night when it's completely dark. My ceiling is white so it reflects some light in room and alter the experience a little bit... I heard the grey screen could actually help with this ? And that during the day the screen would actually be brighter and more contrasted with the grey screen ?

I've called the place where I bought my screen and I could still exchange the screen for a 120 inch grey 0.8. I know that it will give me a better image during daylight, but what about at night when it's completely dark ?

I've read somewhere that for movie watching i'd better be going with a grey screen.... That it gives better contrast and better blacks... But i've also read about the screen door effect...Ultimately I want the best image to watch movies.

I know i'm all over the place with this thread, but I would really like some help on this question....

Grey (0.8) or White (1.3) 120" Manual Projection Screen ?

Thanks a lot.
This is a very bright projector and will give you a great image with either screen. For your room conditions and viewing preferences I'll offer you the following advice: If 3D is a priority go with the 1.3. If not go with the grey screen.
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post #1096 of 1100 Old 09-20-2014, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybobwong View Post
I just bought the Epson 3020e and so far i've been projecting the image on the white wall of my living room, giving me a nice bright image.

I will be projecting a 120" inch image from 15 feet out. During the day there is some light in the room, but ultimately I want to watch movies at night when it's completely dark. My ceiling is white so it reflects some light in room and alter the experience a little bit... I heard the grey screen could actually help with this ? And that during the day the screen would actually be brighter and more contrasted with the grey screen ?

I've called the place where I bought my screen and I could still exchange the screen for a 120 inch grey 0.8. I know that it will give me a better image during daylight, but what about at night when it's completely dark ?

I've read somewhere that for movie watching i'd better be going with a grey screen.... That it gives better contrast and better blacks... But i've also read about the screen door effect...Ultimately I want the best image to watch movies.

I know i'm all over the place with this thread, but I would really like some help on this question....

Grey (0.8) or White (1.3) 120" Manual Projection Screen ?

Thanks a lot.
I went grey (n8.5 paint on a 130" screen), similar situation as yours, but I mostly watch at night. It's amazing! The blacks on this projector are not that great, but for the price, nothing beats it (as DLP doesn't work for me, I see rainbows! lol)
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post #1097 of 1100 Old 09-20-2014, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfelicio View Post
I went grey (n8.5 paint on a 130" screen), similar situation as yours, but I mostly watch at night. It's amazing! The blacks on this projector are not that great, but for the price, nothing beats it (as DLP doesn't work for me, I see rainbows! lol)
Thanks cfelicio. I am leaning towards grey screen now
Good to know your happy with it, did the grey paint help to get details in the blacks ?

Does the n8.5 paint stands for a .85 gain ? Otherwise for your 130" screen what is the distance with the projector ?

Thanks.

Last edited by billybobwong; 09-20-2014 at 02:30 PM.
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post #1098 of 1100 Old 09-20-2014, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybobwong View Post
Thanks cfelicio. I am leaning towards grey screen now
Good to know your happy with it, did the grey paint help to get details in the blacks ?

Does the n8.5 paint stands for a .85 gain ? Otherwise for your 130" screen what is the distance with the projector ?

Thanks.
yes, it helps a bit, nothing major. This projector is very bright, so n8.5 (I think its the same as 0.85 gain, not sure) is fine. I'm still running it in eco mode, and bright enough.

I also don't watch much 3d, so not sure if it's bright enough for that. I don't remember the exact distance, but I put it the closest possible to the screen, to maximize brightness...
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post #1099 of 1100 Old Yesterday, 12:54 PM
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anyone using the wireless box?

I just got a 3020e and I'm loving the picture so far.

Has anyone gotten the HDMI output from the wireless box to pass audio to their receiver?

I wanted to use the WiHD box to get 3D without upgrading my receiver. I've plugged all my source devices into the wireless box and use the HDMI output to route the audio back to the receivers... many reviews said that that is what it is for. However, I'm not having any luck getting it to work, my receiver says no signal. The manual says that if you want to switch between the wireless and the wired HDMI port you need to hit the "output" button on the remote. This implies to me that the HDMI port isn't active all the time. I could use the optical audio out, but that means I'm restricted to Dobly and DTS formats.


If this has already been covered in this thread, I'd really appreciate the link... I tried searching the forum several times before asking the question.

thanks in advance for any suggestions
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post #1100 of 1100 Old Yesterday, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfelicio View Post
This projector is very bright, so n8.5 (I think its the same as 0.85 gain, not sure) is fine.
Just a bit of random info:
The gain scale is nice and simple and refers to the percentage of reflected light (compared to a perfect matte-white)..so a 0.85gain screen is returning 85% of the brightness back.

The N-value is more of a logarithmic curve and an N8.5 matte-grey is a decent amount lower than 0.85gain. If I'm remembering right n7.5 is something like 0.5gain (N7.5 is absorbing half the light that hits it) and N5 is roughly 0.2gain..maybe 0.23g.

It's frustratingly hard to find numbers for this, at least it was when I was looking.

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