BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 121 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaGamePimp View Post

If you want to do it right from the start grab an i1 Display Pro colorimeter + i1 Pro spectrophotometer + CalMan or Chromapure.

There is also the newer C3 with CalMan Tutorial from Spectracal for $150.

http://store.spectracal.com/consumer/c3.html

If you want to dip your toes in the deep end and see if you like it grab an inexpensive Spyder 4 colorimeter and use the newer free HCFR. When you are ready to move on, with better gear or find it just is not of interest, you sell off the $100 Spyder for $50 and you've only invested a small amount to have first hand calibration experience and can make the right choice for yourself.

http://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder4Express-S4X100-Display-Calibration/dp/B006TF3746/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1364157395&sr=1-3&keywords=Spyder+4

Best of luck,
Jason

thanks this is exactly my intent, Im interested in learning more about calibration and so forth and want to get my toes as you put it wet and see how far into the deep end I want to go smile.gif I was looking at the i1 Display Pro and was thinking of getting that but I will also look at your other options you mentioned as well.

Thanks.

Projector: BenQ w1500 + ES Sable 135" Screen AVR: Onkyo TX-NR646 ATMOS/DTSX + Darbee 5000
Speakers: Polk Audio TSX550t (FL/FR), CS2 Series II (C), Monitor40 Series II (RL/RR),
Onkyo THX Bookshelf Speakers (Ceiling L/R), (2) JL Audio 12" Subs + (2) Dayton 15" Subs + (2) ButtKicker LFE
Arrangement: 5.1.2 Source: HTPC, Roku 4, Nexus Player, Samsung UBD-K8500 4k Bluray Player
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Old 03-24-2013, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaGamePimp View Post

I was not meaning to be insulting at all, sorry if you took it as such. wink.gif

You said it was "unnecessary" and while that is certainly true for most it is not true for everyone. smile.gif

I fully understand that this unit calibrates exceptionally well with the user menu CMS but then for those that are going to take it to that next level (which at this price range is only going to be a very small percentage) I think it's great to have the ISFccc in there.

The ISF mode should be lockable and only by entering in the code can those adjustments be changed, this is one of the main aspects of the ISFccc. The ISFccc obviously bypasses the user menu CMS when enabled. If it does not function in this manner (as it should) then that must mean we need firmware 1.05. frown.gif

So again I am sorry if you felt insulted, that was not my intent at all, I was just saying to do some research before you dismiss it since you said yourself you did not even know what it was.

Jason

No, I said that I didn't know what Lamp WaveForm was, not that I had no idea what ISF is. Changing the setting, it seemed to function similarly to a color temp. May not be what it is, but it doesn't matter anyway because the settings won't stick.

Again, when I said unnecessary, I meant it to give people peace of mind that they weren't missing out on the holy grail, and to assure them that they could still get the PJ pretty much perfectly dialed in without the ISF mode.

I'm one of those people that likes to get every last bit out of a calibration, but I still understand that what ever incremental improvements I could make with the ISF mode on THIS particular projector, are not going to be visible, because it's already as good as the human eye perceives.

I'm with you. The fact that the mode is there is great, but the user menu controls are all that you would really need.

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Old 03-24-2013, 02:32 PM
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Do any of you guys know the size of ND filter I will need to fit this projector? I have never used one before, do they click into place or have to be some how stuck on. I ordered a glass one but I know it will be way to big, haven't thought of away to get it to work yet I'm waiting for it to arrive still.
Thanks
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Old 03-24-2013, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Chaves View Post

thanks this is exactly my intent, Im interested in learning more about calibration and so forth and want to get my toes as you put it wet and see how far into the deep end I want to go smile.gif I was looking at the i1 Display Pro and was thinking of getting that but I will also look at your other options you mentioned as well.

Thanks.

For sub-$500, I would stick to the meters Chromapure sells, because they will create a custom offset, instead of Spectracal which uses a shortcut technique to create their less ACCURATE offset (sorry Spectracal, just IMHO). Also, the Spectracal support folk were pretty aggravating when they tried to get me to do a bunch of tests well knowing the tests I was doing was to prove a bug they already knew existed but wouldn't want to admit. That said, the higher up Spectracal guys in the Forums will give you good support if you ask them a question and keep it to the point.

The Pro spectrophotometer is way overboard unless you want to calibrate for others or want to profile your i1 or D3 against it, but the offset Chromapure creates will probably be even more accurate than one you can do yourself. After 1-2 years, the spectrophotometer would come in handy as the meters will drift some.

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Old 03-24-2013, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaGamePimp View Post

There is also the newer C3 with CalMan Tutorial from Spectracal for $150.

http://store.spectracal.com/consumer/c3.html

Hmmm... According to that link:

Quote:
*Does not support front projection displays

Looking for a front projection solution? We suggest either the OEM i1 Display or the SpectraCal C6.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:12 PM
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Give Mike Garrett @ AV Science Sales a call (or an email).
They often have specials, sometimes at a lower price than Spectracal or Chromapure's site has the same product for,

Call Mike: 585-671-2968
Email: Mike@AVScience.com

I would still do Chromapure instead if its the same price or less than Spectracal smile.gif

**New Projector Calculator Released**
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Give Mike Garrett @ AV Science Sales a call (or an email).
They often have specials, sometimes at a lower price than Spectracal or Chromapure's site has the same product for,

Call Mike: 585-671-2968
Email: Mike@AVScience.com

I would still do Chromapure instead if its the same price or less than Spectracal smile.gif

Im going to do some more research and read up, I will be ordering the projector and when I get it, I will do a basic calibration with it and after 100hrs of use I will jump in and look at getting some hardware to calibrate but until then Im going to read read read smile.gif

Projector: BenQ w1500 + ES Sable 135" Screen AVR: Onkyo TX-NR646 ATMOS/DTSX + Darbee 5000
Speakers: Polk Audio TSX550t (FL/FR), CS2 Series II (C), Monitor40 Series II (RL/RR),
Onkyo THX Bookshelf Speakers (Ceiling L/R), (2) JL Audio 12" Subs + (2) Dayton 15" Subs + (2) ButtKicker LFE
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Chaves View Post

thanks this is exactly my intent, Im interested in learning more about calibration and so forth and want to get my toes as you put it wet and see how far into the deep end I want to go smile.gif I was looking at the i1 Display Pro and was thinking of getting that but I will also look at your other options you mentioned as well.

Thanks.

I bought the i1 Display Pro / Calman 5 bundle from Spectracal and have been happy with the results. At the time it seemed to be the best "budget" level meter I could find. For projectors you need a meter that will work in "non-contact" mode. Many of the really cheap ones can't.

BenQ W1070 | Denon AVR-3313CI | Samsung PN51E7000 Plasma | HTPC
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:23 PM
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@Daniel

It will be a lot of reading a bunch of annoying arguments in the calibration forum, I've read most of them, but there is a 90% or so consensus on this point:

1) Spectracal or Chromapure is fine, just MAKE sure that if you buy ONLY a colorimeter that you get one with a custom offset, and I like CP's offsets better.
2) You will not need the Spectrophotometer at first, you can always buy it later if you want to ensure absolute accuracy as your meter ages.
3) Some will disagree with # 2 and say spend the $1000+, but I will repeat YOU CAN ALWAYS buy it later or get a USED one.

If you want to save money, get the RETAIL version of the D3 / i1 and send it to a forum member who is capable enough to make an offset for FREE for you and will ship it back.
That is all I can think of to really save money,otherwise it's going to cost $300 to $500 even if you get a SALE deal from Mike @ AVS. If choosing the spectro vs. the colorimeter, well only buying an expensive spectrophotometer (even though more accurate) isn't that fun because it makes the calibration go much slower, and if you are just learning calibration you will get frustrated with the update speeds (though not sure HOW FAST the latest spectro is, it is faster but it costs like $1500+).

Mike knows quite a bit about the different meters, though he isn't going to give you the "argument sakes" side of it as they do in the calibration forums.

**New Projector Calculator Released**
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

It will be a lot of reading a bunch of annoying arguments in the calibration forum, I've read most of them, but there is a 90% or so consensus on this point:

1) Spectracal or Chromapure is fine, just MAKE sure that if you buy ONLY a colorimeter that you get one with a custom offset, and I like CP's offsets better.
2) You will not need the Spectrophotometer at first, you can always buy it later if you want to ensure absolute accuracy as your meter ages.
3) Some will disagree with # 2 and say spend the $1000+, but I will repeat YOU CAN ALWAYS buy it later or get a USED one.

If you want to save money, get the RETAIL version of the D3 / i1 and send it to a forum member who is capable enough to make an offset for FREE for you and will ship it back.
That is all I can think of to really save money,otherwise it's going to cost $300 to $500 even if you get a SALE deal from Mike @ AVS. If choosing the spectro vs. the colorimeter, well only buying an expensive spectrophotometer (even though more accurate) isn't that fun because it makes the calibration go much slower, and if you are just learning calibration you will get frustrated with the update speeds (though not sure HOW FAST the latest spectro is, it is faster but it costs like $1500+).

Mike knows quite a bit about the different meters, though he isn't going to give you the "argument sakes" side of it as they do in the calibration forums.

thanks I will keep that in mind, and well I dont want to side track this thread any further so I will check out the calibration threads and go from there. smile.gif

Projector: BenQ w1500 + ES Sable 135" Screen AVR: Onkyo TX-NR646 ATMOS/DTSX + Darbee 5000
Speakers: Polk Audio TSX550t (FL/FR), CS2 Series II (C), Monitor40 Series II (RL/RR),
Onkyo THX Bookshelf Speakers (Ceiling L/R), (2) JL Audio 12" Subs + (2) Dayton 15" Subs + (2) ButtKicker LFE
Arrangement: 5.1.2 Source: HTPC, Roku 4, Nexus Player, Samsung UBD-K8500 4k Bluray Player
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

A few people asked for firmware update instructions.
I suggest that you do this only if you have an early version of the firmware and are having issues that need to be fixed. One must also realize that if you mess up the firmware update your warranty could be void

Firmware available below:

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B_xTFybwtlbvU1oxdHRNcWd3LTQ/edit?pli=1&docId=0B_xTFybwtlbvTHFqclRLU3pBNlk.

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B_xTFybwtlbvU1oxdHRNcWd3LTQ/edit

If one wants to do the update I suggest doing it using a standard to min B cable.

1. Write down all your settings before starting.
2. I suggest that you create a new folder on your desktop called 1070 firmware in the new folder.
3. Download the download tool and unzip in new folder.
4. Download the 105 img file to the same folder.
5. .Install the download tool. It is called DLP composer.
6. Open the DLP Composer tool and go to edit, preferences.
7. When the window opens go to communication and set it to USB
8. Close this window and click on flash loader on the opening screen. A window will open.
8. Change the mark to Complete Image Download Put check in Skip Boot loader area and change 59 32Kb
9. On the top of the flash loader hit the browse button and go to your folder 105 img file.
10. Insert the USB cable in the min plug on the projector and into your computer. (Wait for the drivers to load. This should take a minute with windows 7 or 8
11. Unplug the projector and push the power and auto buttons at the same time. Plug in the projector while holding the buttons. The LED on the projector will turn red if you are in download mode.
(If it turns orange do this again until you only get the red led) This is very important.
12 Hit the Reset Bus and Start Download. The upgrade process should take about 5 minutes. A timer will start telling you how long it will take.
13. Do not unplug anything during the process. When everything completes the LED on the projector will turn to standby orange.
14. Unplug the USB cable and turn the projector on
15 You will have to put all your settings back in and turn source select to auto
16. Instructions are also available in the service manual PDF you downloaded to your folder.
17. Only do this upgrade at your own risk and if you are familiar with doing firmware updates..
18. You do not need the service tool to do the firmware update the firmware and write down your settings.

One More Thing:
Be sure to copy the FlashDeviceParameters.txt file into the newly installed TI Composer directory.

Just spent some time discovering that.

Cheers
Rew

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Old 03-24-2013, 03:54 PM
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Strangely enough after the firmware upgrade some of my amended settings have remained. This may an anomaly, so I definitely recommend recording your settings in advance.

I also suspect that the colour balance has altered. The image doesn't have that slight green tint (in all colour modes) that I had attempted to tweak out with 1.02 (with my tweaked setting reset to default).
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:23 PM
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Hi All,
I might have found a solution for the "No Signal" HDMI issue causing folks to need to unplug and re-plug their HDMI cable.

I was consistently getting the “No Signal” error, requiring me to unplug, then re-plug the HDMI cable into my projector to get video back. Often it would occur right after turning the projector on and other times just while changing channels/resolutions.

The HDMI cable I’m using is 50 feet long and had previously been used on my prior projector (Epson 6500UB) for 3+ years without issue. The source is a DVDO Edge with a variety of other devices hooked-up.

After dinking with it for several hours attempting to fix the problem through settings and the like (HDCP, resolution negotiation, upgrading firmware on the DVDO, etc.) I figured that it might be a ground loop or noise issue since it required physically breaking the connection between the projector and source to fix temporarily.

I grabbed a FilterLinc 1626-10 powerline filter, which I have to keep my HomePlug network reliable, threw it on the projector power and voila – no issues since. Normally these devices are used to prevent noisy devices from polluting your home wiring but in this case it seems the opposite has also worked.

I’ve changed inputs dozens of times including reverting all my video settings back to their prior state with no issue. The projector has been power cycled at least six times since with no problems, whereas previously it wouldn’t survive a single power cycle without unplugging and replugging the HDMI. I'm loving the projector other than the HDMI quirk; so bright compared to the old one. Can't believe the quality at the price point.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:39 PM
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I will keep that in mind, granted I plug practically everything I own into battery backups so Im sure I will have the same results with that smile.gif

Projector: BenQ w1500 + ES Sable 135" Screen AVR: Onkyo TX-NR646 ATMOS/DTSX + Darbee 5000
Speakers: Polk Audio TSX550t (FL/FR), CS2 Series II (C), Monitor40 Series II (RL/RR),
Onkyo THX Bookshelf Speakers (Ceiling L/R), (2) JL Audio 12" Subs + (2) Dayton 15" Subs + (2) ButtKicker LFE
Arrangement: 5.1.2 Source: HTPC, Roku 4, Nexus Player, Samsung UBD-K8500 4k Bluray Player
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimoy View Post

Strangely enough after the firmware upgrade some of my amended settings have remained. This may an anomaly, so I definitely recommend recording your settings in advance.

I also suspect that the colour balance has altered. The image doesn't have that slight green tint (in all colour modes) that I had attempted to tweak out with 1.02 (with my tweaked setting reset to default).

No, I don't think so, I had the same experience the only settings which changed on mine was:

Brightness Contrast reset to 50
Sharpness reset to 15

Projector position also was changed to default of Front

Which are their defaults.

All of my other changes remained the same.

Upgraded firmware from 1.03 to 1.05

All seems well!

Rew

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Vizio P75-C1 | BenQ HT2050 |Lumagen RadianceXS-3D |Panasonic BDT460 | Samsung UBD-K8500
Denon AVR-x5200w | Nvidia Shield Android TV | C =Axiom VP150 |FL/FR =Axiom M60 |SL/SR =Axiom QS4 |TFL/TFR =Bose 161 | TRL/TRR =Bose 161 |Sub =Reaction Audio S-15 500W SEALED SUBWOOFER
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

18. You do not need the service tool to do the firmware update the firmware and write down your settings.

Thanks for the guide but this sentence seems strange. Is it correct?? If so, I am sorry but I cannot follow the meaning as earlier you say use the service tool and in this sentence you say it is not needed. Clarification please.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by OZReddog View Post

Thanks for the guide but this sentence seems strange. Is it correct?? If so, I am sorry but I cannot follow the meaning as earlier you say use the service tool and in this sentence you say it is not needed. Clarification please.

I did not use it and all worked just fine.

Rew

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Denon AVR-x5200w | Nvidia Shield Android TV | C =Axiom VP150 |FL/FR =Axiom M60 |SL/SR =Axiom QS4 |TFL/TFR =Bose 161 | TRL/TRR =Bose 161 |Sub =Reaction Audio S-15 500W SEALED SUBWOOFER
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Rew452 View Post

One More Thing:
Be sure to copy the FlashDeviceParameters.txt file into the newly installed TI Composer directory.

Just spent some time discovering that.

Cheers
Rew

Thanks I should have included this. I just added 5A to instructions.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimoy View Post

Strangely enough after the firmware upgrade some of my amended settings have remained. This may an anomaly, so I definitely recommend recording your settings in advance.

I also suspect that the colour balance has altered. The image doesn't have that slight green tint (in all colour modes) that I had attempted to tweak out with 1.02 (with my tweaked setting reset to default).

I suspect that they may have tweaked the color balance in the newer firmware to make the pic. more accurate. Thanks for pointing this out. The changes may not show up in the numbers.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OZReddog View Post

Thanks for the guide but this sentence seems strange. Is it correct?? If so, I am sorry but I cannot follow the meaning as earlier you say use the service tool and in this sentence you say it is not needed. Clarification please.

The Composer tool and service tool are two different tools. You must use the DLP composer tool but you do not need the Benq service tool if you write down the settings.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r.andom View Post

Hi All,
I might have found a solution for the "No Signal" HDMI issue causing folks to need to unplug and re-plug their HDMI cable.

I was consistently getting the “No Signal” error, requiring me to unplug, then re-plug the HDMI cable into my projector to get video back. Often it would occur right after turning the projector on and other times just while changing channels/resolutions.

The HDMI cable I’m using is 50 feet long and had previously been used on my prior projector (Epson 6500UB) for 3+ years without issue. The source is a DVDO Edge with a variety of other devices hooked-up.

After dinking with it for several hours attempting to fix the problem through settings and the like (HDCP, resolution negotiation, upgrading firmware on the DVDO, etc.) I figured that it might be a ground loop or noise issue since it required physically breaking the connection between the projector and source to fix temporarily.

I grabbed a FilterLinc 1626-10 powerline filter, which I have to keep my HomePlug network reliable, threw it on the projector power and voila – no issues since. Normally these devices are used to prevent noisy devices from polluting your home wiring but in this case it seems the opposite has also worked.

I’ve changed inputs dozens of times including reverting all my video settings back to their prior state with no issue. The projector has been power cycled at least six times since with no problems, whereas previously it wouldn’t survive a single power cycle without unplugging and replugging the HDMI. I'm loving the projector other than the HDMI quirk; so bright compared to the old one. Can't believe the quality at the price point.

This is worth a try since I am having this issue with 3D especially even with new high speed cables.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

This is worth a try since I am having this issue with 3D especially even with new high speed cables.

My projector has been in use most of the day since installing the power filter early this morning and had zero issues, whereas before every 20-30 minutes I had to unplug/replug the HDMI cable.

Depending on your power strips, etc. you might also be able to use a UPS or good surge supressor that does filtering to achieve the same result. Just thinking of ways you might be able to test without buying hardware. I was pretty surprised that a basic noise filter (the one I used suppresses noise at 120hz) did the job, I was thinking I might need to hunt down a true line conditioner/isolation transformer or end up lifting ground on one of the devices as a test.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by dzenc View Post

Hmmm... According to that link:


Quote:
*Does not support front projection displays

Looking for a front projection solution? We suggest either the OEM i1 Display or the SpectraCal C6.



Ah, I did not see that it is a contact meter only and was not aware as I have no personal experience with that meter. It sounded like a great way (value) to get your feet wet. Sorry. wink.gif

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Old 03-25-2013, 02:35 AM
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Okay I'm new to this, could someone help me.

Benq W1070 to a 92" fixed grey screen & Oppo103 & Pioneer sc-lx75 receiver.

HDMI out on the receiver to the in of the projector.

Everything fine but all is still as per the settings out of the box.

I can't help thinking that I could improve everything by adjusting settings.

Question is two fold. .. which do I adjust, oppo, pj, receiver or all together?

2nd question, can anyone point me to a site or sites or program where they have recommended settings?

Loving my new hobby and eager to learn.

Many thanks. ..
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by cliffly View Post

Okay I'm new to this, could someone help me.

Benq W1070 to a 92" fixed grey screen & Oppo103 & Pioneer sc-lx75 receiver.

HDMI out on the receiver to the in of the projector.

Everything fine but all is still as per the settings out of the box.

I can't help thinking that I could improve everything by adjusting settings.

Question is two fold. .. which do I adjust, oppo, pj, receiver or all together?

2nd question, can anyone point me to a site or sites or program where they have recommended settings?

Loving my new hobby and eager to learn.

Many thanks. ..

A fixed grey screen could be an issue depending on the room. If you have a totally dark room a grey screen could case hotspotting.. I would leave the Oppo alone. It is usually best to adj via the projector.
For someone new I would recommend the Disney Wow disk sold by Amazon and other sources.

http://www.amazon.com/Disney-WOW-World-Wonder-n/dp/B0045ASBUC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1364210397&sr=8-3&keywords=disney+wow+disk
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:49 AM
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Many thanks for your quick reply.
What is hot spotting?

The picture looks fine to me just that I bet I can get it better. I have ordered the wow disc actually.

I wonder if I should connect the pj direct to the oppo as right now the oppo goes into the receiver and the pj goes into the out of the receiver. I'm using high end cables everywhere aq cinnamon, chocolate.

One weird thing is at the bottom of my screen the picture seems to slant a little right to left but at the top is fine?

Appreciate anyone's continuing help
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by cliffly View Post

Many thanks for your quick reply.
What is hot spotting?

The picture looks fine to me just that I bet I can get it better. I have ordered the wow disc actually.

I wonder if I should connect the pj direct to the oppo as right now the oppo goes into the receiver and the pj goes into the out of the receiver. I'm using high end cables everywhere aq cinnamon, chocolate.

One weird thing is at the bottom of my screen the picture seems to slant a little right to left but at the top is fine?

Appreciate anyone's continuing help

If the projector isn't positioned close to perfect, you will get some distortion in the shape of the image.

In other words, if the PJ is tilted a little too much up or down, or swiveled too much left or right, you won't get a that perfect rectangle you want.

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Old 03-25-2013, 07:14 AM
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I am ordering this projector today. Is there a proper or easy way to mount this to assure you get a perfect rectangle? Or is it fairly obvious when you are shooting the grid on the wall? I have never owned a pj so this is all new to me.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:39 AM
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RE: Fan Noise - - 3D

Anybody notice the fan engaged higher with 3D mode? Any workarounds or way to minimize fan noise?

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Old 03-25-2013, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tza88 View Post

I am ordering this projector today. Is there a proper or easy way to mount this to assure you get a perfect rectangle? Or is it fairly obvious when you are shooting the grid on the wall? I have never owned a pj so this is all new to me.

Line up the center of the lens with the center of the screen. Mount it at that point.

Get a mount that offers a wide array of tilt options in multiple directions to compensate for ceiling that isn't perfectly level or some other anomaly. Also make sure that it swivels.

These are two great mounts:

http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364222172&sr=8-1&keywords=peerless+ceiling+mount

http://www.amazon.com/Mustang-Profile-Projector-Mount-MV-PROJSP-FLAT-B/dp/B000F5NFTS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1364222212&sr=1-1&keywords=mustang+ceiling+mount

I personally recommend the Peerless, just because I like their adjustment system and the way that the projector detaches better. Think it is a little more beginner friendly.

The Mustang is great too though and costs less. If you are off in your centering of the lens, it has a neat ability to slide horizontally in either direction to compensate. It does not come with screws to attach it to the ceiling though if I'm not mistaken, and many reviews say that the instructions were no help, so that is something else to consider.

Either is a good choice though.

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