BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 136 - AVS Forum
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post #4051 of 10654 Old 04-08-2013, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLBURNSIDE View Post

I'm going to see what Elite says when I send them a picture. Apparently it's possible to replace the screen material with the 4k acoustic stuff instead of the 1080p2, but I'll first see if I can do it. I do like the screen, and it lowers the glaring brightness of the projector at this diagonal size quite a bit, which is a good thing. Having better blacks and contrast is nice, but not if I'm stuck with wavey lines. I'd rather just use my wall until I can build a custom DIY one, but I love the electric retractable feature, very cool. I can't get one of the frame ones because I need it to be retractable since it blocks the exit to my balcony. Yeah my place isn't ideal, I'd rather sit further back from the projector and length-wise in my living room is in the direction of the balcony. The other way is just too darn close.

I have the Elite Screen Cinewhite ER100WH1. I haven't noticed any wavy lines on the screen. Unfortunately since this is my first screen and projector I can't compare it to anything so I'm hesitant to recommend it. I do know that with the right movie the PQ is impressive. I've been watching The Avengers and Prometheus the last few nights.

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post #4052 of 10654 Old 04-08-2013, 11:22 PM
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Good to know Morkeleb, thanks. My current plan is to return this to the post office tomorrow morning, then pick up the model you just mentioned, then put in some 4k acoustic pattern as a replacement for the material, keeping only the electric frame. (well, I'll keep the original too, just in case). I think that's my best bet. I really do need the electric capability and paying more just goes against my religion (of overpaying for stuff! especially stuff that doesn't work as advertised for enourmous cost). The 1080p2 material is advertised as moire-free, well whatya know, it isn't. I just hope the 4k material isn't an even bigger disappoinment.
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post #4053 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DMamper View Post

Can you share with us your 3D settings and also the exact model of glasss you are using.

Here's is a quick fix for those that feel the w1070 3D image is dull...

While in 3D mode...

Make sure your Lamp is set to Smart-Eco (versus the default of Normal which has less contrast).

Go into your Advanced options and set the Gamma to BenQ, turn off Brilliant Color and under Color Management set each of the six colors to 58 for Saturation only (default is 50 for each) leave Hue and Gain alone.

* If red seems too much then set it to 56 versus 58.

Please keep in mind this is not about accuracy as there is no way for those without the proper gear to do it correctly (unless you buy calibration gear or hire a pro) but this should at least bring those feeling that the 3D image is dull some joy. wink.gif

Best of luck,
Jason



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post #4054 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 12:45 AM
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hi all,

I was researching on reliability history of Acer, Optoma and Benq. Acer H5360 and Optoma HD66 seem to have lot of stuck mirrors in 1-2 years of use. Just google "xxxxx projector stuck mirrors".
Since 2 vendors have the same problem, looks like TI had bad chip or design flaw in the board.

Search on Benq doesn't turn up anything at all. Didn't Benq make comparable 720p projector ? Or was it that good in reliability ? Or wasn't it that popular ? Any comments ?
The reason to post this thread ? To see if this new Benq hot potato (W1070) will be as reliable as it's 720p predecessor.
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post #4055 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by rayweil View Post

My NVidia GTX 670 card doesn't offer 1080i at 50/60Hz either. So couldn't play SBS 3D games like Crysis 3. So I need some advice as well.

With TriDef you can play Crysis 3 in stereoscopic 3D.

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post #4056 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 04:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaGamePimp View Post

Here's is a quick fix for those that feel the w1070 3D image is dull...

While in 3D mode...

Make sure your Lamp is set to Smart-Eco (versus the default of Normal which has less contrast).

Go into your Advanced options and set the Gamma to BenQ, turn off Brilliant Color and under Color Management set each of the six colors to 58 for Saturation only (default is 50 for each) leave Hue and Gain alone.

* If red seems too much then set it to 56 versus 58.

Please keep in mind this is not about accuracy as there is no way for those without the proper gear to do it correctly (unless you buy calibration gear or hire a pro) but this should at least bring those feeling that the 3D image is dull some joy. wink.gif

I actually had already done the saturation "tweak for 3D and i cn confirm it does indeed help with the saturation. However i used different lamp setting to you. Will give it agap and see what happens.

Also heres a tweak i did last night, did not notice a negative effect on colour accuracy, and it "blooms & brighten the whites" resultsing in a much brighter picture in general. I went to colour managment and in the RGB gain, i ramped the R and B up to 130 (from 94d efault). And G to 120 (becuase sainsonic glasses let thru too much green. This resulted in what felt like a 25% boost in brightness without dulling the image. White detail is effected, but i think owners will agree a brighter more exciting image is more inportant than the small times in a movie where white detail is important.

The more you ramp the gains up, the more you clip the white details. For my machine staying hnder 130 is best. Ill combine this tweak with the saturation trick and hopefully the image percieved brightness will do another jump.
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post #4057 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLBURNSIDE View Post

Good to know Morkeleb, thanks. My current plan is to return this to the post office tomorrow morning, then pick up the model you just mentioned, then put in some 4k acoustic pattern as a replacement for the material, keeping only the electric frame. (well, I'll keep the original too, just in case). I think that's my best bet. I really do need the electric capability and paying more just goes against my religion (of overpaying for stuff! especially stuff that doesn't work as advertised for enourmous cost). The 1080p2 material is advertised as moire-free, well whatya know, it isn't. I just hope the 4k material isn't an even bigger disappoinment.

The Elite Screen Cinewhite ER100WH1 is a fixed frame wall mounted screen. So your going to get the electric version your saying?

Disclaimer:
The words above are based on loose facts mixed with my opinion, the latter of which is subject to change.

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post #4058 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

DLP is great technology, which for the price typicaly kicks LCD in every way, except for its one failing...RBE for those who are sensitive.
Why wouldn't you just spend a couple hundred more and get a 3-chip?

I thankfully am not sensitive, and although I would catch little glimpses on my Acer in certain scenes I have not seen a single flash on the W1070.
I must say though, that I this weekend I put up the test grid pattern (white lines on black background) and thought I was going to have a seisure...odd.

David...just so others are not confused, you are referring to a 3-chip/panel LCD for a couple hundred more than the W1070 - certainly not a 3-chip DLP eek.gif (but if you have some leads do let me know).

I don't care for LCD - I once owned a Sony LCD projector and continuously had dust problems with it - opening up the projector every couple months to clear the light path - and I even placed an additional HEPA filter over the projector intake to no avail.

The DLP crispness, colors, lack of convergence issues has me sold - have been for many years - even WITH my RBE sensitivity. I really don't complain about, it's just a necessary evil in my case, one that I point out to others that ask.

So stay away from that test grid, it can drive you crazy!
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post #4059 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 11:19 AM
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Lens Shift?

I've got me elite fixed 110" screen installed and now I've got my w1070 setup on a ladder roughly 10' 5" (the throw range from BenQ's site). At that distance the image doesn't fit the screen. I'm sure that was however it came from the factory and that's why they have lens shifting to make it fit.

My question is that by doing lens shifting do you loose clarity of the picture? Will and HD image not appear to be HD if you're at the right throw range but had to do a lens shift to make it fit? Should my lens shift be as tight as possible and I move the projector back? If I do that then my throw rate is out of range and that goes against what BenQ suggets.

I'm a little lost and could use some help. Also, this thread is huge and am wondering if anybody could quickly point to some calibration tips to get the most out of this BenQ w1070? I've got a room with a bit of ambient light and will be attempting to do 3D in the future. For now it's running movies from my Windows Media Center computer, Xfinity & Netflix streams. My internet connection is 7MB down.

Thanks for the insight everyone!!!
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post #4060 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 11:23 AM
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I must really be immune to RBE. I have never seen any hint of it from the test grid pattern. I would have thought that the screen would have to have a much higher percentage of black and white content next to each other to induce rainbows. Something more akin to the Apple commercials that have the white screens and the rapidly changing black text ("Sweet") to induce them. Interesting.

Try as I might, I can't see them. I purposely try to move my eyes quickly around the screen to the point that my eyes hurt lol, but still see nothing.

Not complaining, it's just really interesting how some can see them and most can't. It's a shame that those that do see them can't enjoy DLP tech, as it has so much to offer in areas where the other display techs come up short.

Hope there is a way that they can eliminate RBE for everyone... and produce blacker blacks too lol.
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post #4061 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandk4014 View Post

Lens Shift?

I've got me elite fixed 110" screen installed and now I've got my w1070 setup on a ladder roughly 10' 5" (the throw range from BenQ's site). At that distance the image doesn't fit the screen. I'm sure that was however it came from the factory and that's why they have lens shifting to make it fit.

My question is that by doing lens shifting do you loose clarity of the picture? Will and HD image not appear to be HD if you're at the right throw range but had to do a lens shift to make it fit? Should my lens shift be as tight as possible and I move the projector back? If I do that then my throw rate is out of range and that goes against what BenQ suggets.

I'm a little lost and could use some help. Also, this thread is huge and am wondering if anybody could quickly point to some calibration tips to get the most out of this BenQ w1070? I've got a room with a bit of ambient light and will be attempting to do 3D in the future. For now it's running movies from my Windows Media Center computer, Xfinity & Netflix streams. My internet connection is 7MB down.

Thanks for the insight everyone!!!

Lens shift is something else. That moves the image up or down or left and right. Only up and down on this projector though. I think you mean zoom.

From what I remember from using the BenQ calc, as I also have a 110" screen, is that the placement from the screen was 9'2" or something very similar. Don't know where you get 10'5" from. In any event, you could use the zoom and make the image fit from that distance... probably. Don't have the calc up to verify.

Use the zoom and see if you can make it fit from this range.

As to whether you are adversely affecting the image, I don't think so, but again, not sure if you would be at max zoom, mid zoom, or what zoom from that distance. Either way, if the image looks uniformly focused, I wouldn't worry about it.

As for out of box settings:

Use Cinema, User1 or User2. They are all the same.
Use Normal color temp.
Download the free AVCHD test disc from AVS and adjust your Brightness and Contrast properly. Taking a guess, your Contrast will be around 55-60 and Brightness at 50.
Turn down Clarity noise reduction to zero and sharpness to 6 or 7.
Go into the CMS and increase saturation for each color to 55 or 56. (all six colors, not just primaries).
Put lamp on SmartEco.
I prefer 2.2 Gamma, as 2.4 doesn't do anything about improving black floor, but adversely affects shadow detail, but you may like 2.4. Try it out and see what you like best.

Should be very good for very little work, and no money spent on calibration.
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post #4062 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morkeleb View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by RLBURNSIDE View Post

Good to know Morkeleb, thanks. My current plan is to return this to the post office tomorrow morning, then pick up the model you just mentioned, then put in some 4k acoustic pattern as a replacement for the material, keeping only the electric frame. (well, I'll keep the original too, just in case). I think that's my best bet. I really do need the electric capability and paying more just goes against my religion (of overpaying for stuff! especially stuff that doesn't work as advertised for enourmous cost). The 1080p2 material is advertised as moire-free, well whatya know, it isn't. I just hope the 4k material isn't an even bigger disappoinment.

The Elite Screen Cinewhite ER100WH1 is a fixed frame wall mounted screen. So your going to get the electric version your saying?

I'm going to get the ELECTRIC 100H or maybe the 125H, not sure yet (apparently the 100H is sold out most places here in Canada). In other news, I think maybe the waves in my screen I'm seeing are merely the byproduct of it lacking tension on the sides, and might try to pull it sideways to see if that helps. If it does, I'll probably stick to the screen I have, I'm not sure if the waves were moire or not but if they go away, I'm keeping it.

Here's a 5 dollar way to add some tab tensioning to your screens, and save about $500-1000 off the price of one of those:

http://www.avforums.com/forums/projector-screens/458820-diy-tab-tensioning.html

Definitely trying this tonight or tomorrow.
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post #4063 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Tyrone Burton View Post

As you said, it depends on the person. for me, I have gotten used to it. It can possibly be distracting sometimes, but you get used to it to a point, it doesn't become a problem....well that is what happened with me anyway. You can test how bad it is with you using the "Test" button on the remote. People keep saying "don't look for them", but you can't help it lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith AP View Post

I owned an Optoma HD70 roughly seven years ago, my first DLP, and I immediately noticed the RBE. The W1070, at least for me, has more RBE than the Optoma did. There may be reasons for this like the W1070 being a much brighter projector, different wheel speed, or whatever...but again I do see more.

Like Tyrone mentioned above, you might get used to it. I'll add at least put up with it. To minimize the effect I've disciplined myself to keep me eyes from darting all around the image. While this doesn't solve the problem entirely, it keeps it manageable.

Of course it all depends on you, but this is my experience, from one person sensitive to RBE and owning the W1070 and a prior DLP projector.

Thanks guys. I need to see if I can find someplace that has this projector on display so I can take a look before buying. Even if I can't find one to audition I might just get it anyway and hope for the best. Like I mentioned before, years ago when I first encountered RBE, I only watched 10 minutes of the opening to The Dark Knight and there was a couple of scenes where I did notice them, so I don't know how sensitive I am to them but it was very distracting to me.

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post #4064 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLBURNSIDE View Post

I'm going to get the ELECTRIC 100H or maybe the 125H, not sure yet (apparently the 100H is sold out most places here in Canada). In other news, I think maybe the waves in my screen I'm seeing are merely the byproduct of it lacking tension on the sides, and might try to pull it sideways to see if that helps. If it does, I'll probably stick to the screen I have, I'm not sure if the waves were moire or not but if they go away, I'm keeping it.

Here's a 5 dollar way to add some tab tensioning to your screens, and save about $500-1000 off the price of one of those:

http://www.avforums.com/forums/projector-screens/458820-diy-tab-tensioning.html

Definitely trying this tonight or tomorrow.

Really hope it works out for you, but I doubt it. Heard too many bad things about that material. Even when someone says something positive about it, it's usually with a caveat about how it's acceptable for the price.

Good luck.

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post #4065 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 01:13 PM
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OT but...

I have an Elite Electric 100" and no perceivable waves, the manual pull down I had previously had the V wave that most pull downs have.

The outer black border (edges) on left and right curl a little but the screen area itself is flat and no image distortion is present during panning.

I have had the Elite Cinewhite and the Maxwhite materials and they both have some degree of texture that is visible on bright scenes, it does not really sparkle like many of the other inexpensive brands do however.

The texture is not visible during 3D viewing.

The VuTec materials are excellent, the Britewhite has no sheen and the Matte White is just barely there. The Carada materials are excellent as well and of course the legendary Da-Lite HP.

Avoid most of the inexpensive grey screens as they almost all have a visible sheen that creates sparklies and makes bright colors / whites look dirty.

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post #4066 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 01:15 PM
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Mike - Thanks for the reply and I'll take your calibration notes and apply them tonight. As for the zoom, I got my location from (http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-W1070-projection-calculator-pro.htm). I've been the BenQ site and projectorCentral.com and they're the same thing. Anyways, I adjusted by diagonal to be 110" and it give me a throw of 10'5". I guess at that distance I have no other options then to use the zoom to fit the image to the screen.
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post #4067 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandk4014 View Post

Mike - Thanks for the reply and I'll take your calibration notes and apply them tonight. As for the zoom, I got my location from (http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-W1070-projection-calculator-pro.htm). I've been the BenQ site and projectorCentral.com and they're the same thing. Anyways, I adjusted by diagonal to be 110" and it give me a throw of 10'5". I guess at that distance I have no other options then to use the zoom to fit the image to the screen.

Use the BenQ calculator:

http://www.benq.com/microsite/projector/throwratiocalculator/

It is perfectly accurate.

For a 110" diagonal screen, you need to be 9' 2" from the screen. I mounted mine 9' 3" from the screen to give myself some leeway and I need zoom in the tiniest bit to make it fit my 110" screen.

Not saying that you can't put yours 10' 5" back and zoom in to make it fit, but if the calc is telling you that 10' 5" is where you need to be to use no zoom, then that is flat out wrong.

Use BenQ's calc.
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post #4068 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Stuntman_Mike View Post

I must really be immune to RBE. I have never seen any hint of it from the test grid pattern. I would have thought that the screen would have to have a much higher percentage of black and white content next to each other to induce rainbows. Something more akin to the Apple commercials that have the white screens and the rapidly changing black text ("Sweet") to induce them. Interesting.

Try as I might, I can't see them. I purposely try to move my eyes quickly around the screen to the point that my eyes hurt lol, but still see nothing.

Mike, the problem for me manifests itself when the screen is mainly dark with some bright contrasting element like the test pattern grid, or in a dark movie scene like a dungeon with a bright torch burning on the wall. The Apple commercials are the reverse and I don't see it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jd371

Thanks guys. I need to see if I can find someplace that has this projector on display so I can take a look before buying. Even if I can't find one to audition I might just get it anyway and hope for the best. Like I mentioned before, years ago when I first encountered RBE, I only watched 10 minutes of the opening to The Dark Knight and there was a couple of scenes where I did notice them, so I don't know how sensitive I am to them but it was very distracting to me.

jd371, for further info, the RBE problem for me is only apparent in a darkened room...if there's ambient light I usually don't see them...probably the degradation of extreme contrast between black/bright. Understand too that the RBE effect normally isn't continuous throughout a movie for me, it comes and goes with the content, that's what I put up with. Again, I've been able to train myself to limit my eyes from quickly moving around the screen.

Good luck, I hope you find a way to demo the projector (in the dark). I'm very satisfied with my purchase of this projector.
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post #4069 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 02:02 PM
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Well you dead-on-balls accurite from their site. I should have enough cable to make that stretch I only hope that the wife can approve the new location of it. At that range, what does your zoom look like? Are you all the way cranked over one way or another? Please forgive me but I'm not fully understanding how the zoom features are working with this.
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post #4070 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandk4014 View Post

Well you dead-on-balls accurite from their site. I should have enough cable to make that stretch I only hope that the wife can approve the new location of it. At that range, what does your zoom look like? Are you all the way cranked over one way or another? Please forgive me but I'm not fully understanding how the zoom features are working with this.

I barely touched the zoom lever at all. Just a slight bit to the left when I am underneath the projector and facing the screen. I think it's left anyway lol. Not at home now and haven't touched in a month now.

Like I said, you are probably fine where it is if you can zoom it in enough to fit the screen. I just didn't want to use any zoom at all because:

1- My living room is 21' x 12' and I have the screen on the right side of my living room going the long way, so I only have 12' of room to play with from the screen. Adding the projector length, room to vent, and not wanting to have to bend my cables in a cramped space, I wanted to give them some room. I also have the Move so it helps to have the projector a bit in front, though this wasn't a big consideration.

2- I wanted to avoid any issues with focus uniformity, so I didn't want to use any zoom or lens shift, as that can sometimes cause problems with focus from what I've heard. Haven't heard of this being the case on this particular PJ though

If you already mounted it or have the 10' 5" as the best place for the PJ in your room, again, I wouldn't worry about it, as long as you can make it fit the screen. There are some advantages to using mid zoom as well. Main thing is to have focus across the screen and to be able to square up the projector to the screen, and having the image fit.

Still use the BenQ calc though, as the real life projector will behave EXACTLY as the virtual one on their site. Don't know if that is the case with others also, but they made the projector, so you might as well use their calc.

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post #4071 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
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Mike, the problem for me manifests itself when the screen is mainly dark with some bright contrasting element like the test pattern grid, or in a dark movie scene like a dungeon with a bright torch burning on the wall. The Apple commercials are the reverse and I don't see it.

Ah. Like I said, I have never seen it, I had just heard that it is mostly apparent when there is black and white content on screen. I assumed that it needed to be a close 50/50 mix or more white than black to see it.

I had heard that people saw them during scenes in the snow too, so again, I thought that white was the most important factor.

Would like to know what people are talking about for my own edification, but at the same time, I'm very glad I can't see them even if I try lol.

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post #4072 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 02:53 PM
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Not cool mike changing your avatar, I thought it was someone new commenting on this thread before I saw the name lol =p

Projector: BenQ w1070 v1.06 + Painted N9 Grey 120" Screen
AVR: Onkyo TX-NR636 ATMOS + Darbee Media Player: Panasonic DMP-BDT 321 + ChromeCast
Speakers: Polk Audio TSX550t (FL, FR), CS2 Series II (Center), Monitor40 Series II (RL, RR),
Onkyo THX Bookshelf Speakers (Ceiling L,R) + Dual JL Audio 12" Subs + ButtKicker LFE Arrangement: 5.2.2
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post #4073 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 03:19 PM
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Not cool mike changing your avatar, I thought it was someone new commenting on this thread before I saw the name lol =p

Lol.

Got to get ready for ASM 2. That other costume is old news cool.gif

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post #4074 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 05:42 PM
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If projector image shakes up and down what could be the reason running firmware 105 on my w1070 also notice that when I power it down and back up its gone.

This started yesterday and it's intermitting.
Any advice thanks in advance.
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post #4075 of 10654 Old 04-09-2013, 07:47 PM
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Lol.

Got to get ready for ASM 2. That other costume is old news cool.gif

Off topic, but they are filming ASM2 close to where I live. Filming is at the Grumman Studios in Bethpage Long Island. They converted the hangers into sound stages after the ceased production of fighter jets. Also filming nearby is the new Ninja Turtle movie. They built a set at the Jone's Beach State Park West End 2 parking lot. It's very impressive, a wall of freight containers stacked 3 high with spot lights on top. This is the same location that MIB3 was filmed a few years back. Sorry for hijacking the thread....carry on. biggrin.gif

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post #4076 of 10654 Old 04-10-2013, 04:06 AM
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Guys, I'm sure this has been mentioned before on here, but may I ask what the neutral position is on the Lens Shift control on this projector?

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post #4077 of 10654 Old 04-10-2013, 09:58 AM
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Still trying to decide if I want to switch the Optoma HD33 for the W1070. I don't have much projector experience, but I'm finding the Optoma's image a little dingy with minimal ambient lighting. I'm wondering if the higher lumens of the BenQ would provide a noticeable difference.
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post #4078 of 10654 Old 04-10-2013, 10:56 AM
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Still trying to decide if I want to switch the Optoma HD33 for the W1070. I don't have much projector experience, but I'm finding the Optoma's image a little dingy with minimal ambient lighting. I'm wondering if the higher lumens of the BenQ would provide a noticeable difference.

I have both projectors. Had the HD33 for 3months. Had the W1070 for 2 weeks. I would say the w1070 is the better overall projector. The HD33 only beats it in one area, you can put pure detail on max (3) and get a more detailed image. The w1070 you need to use their noise reduction which reduces the fine details in blu rays.

I was testig brigtness watching hugo and Tangled last night. Side by side test and to my suprise on defaults setting and normal lamp mode the HD33 was brighter than the w1070 in 2D. You can ramp up the RGB gains on the w1070 to achieve brighter image at the expense of clipping white details. But tbh both projectors are about the same brightness and ive never found projectors contrasty enought in daytime with normal white 1.0 gain screens.

Swapping imo is a great idea because the w1070 is an all rounder better projector. Much better for both 2D and especially for 3D gaming. Its upscaler is superb, even better than my Sony HW50es.

Try this. Set your HD33 gamma to graphics. Thats boosts the brightness by about 15%.. Thats around the same factor the w1070 is "supposed" to be over the HD33.
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post #4079 of 10654 Old 04-10-2013, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrone Burton View Post

Guys, I'm sure this has been mentioned before on here, but may I ask what the neutral position is on the Lens Shift control on this projector?

It's flush with the bottom of the projector. i.e. if you have it on a table, with the shift at 0, it will project straight at the bottom. I.e. the default offset is one half image height, i.e. if the top of your projected image is at Y=0, the lens is at Y = -height. With shift it's at Y= -(height+shift), or equivalently, Y = -height - shift
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post #4080 of 10654 Old 04-10-2013, 11:07 AM
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Try this. Set your HD33 gamma to graphics. Thats boosts the brightness by about 15%.
I will try the gamma change on the HD33 tonite, thanks for the tip.
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