BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 280 - AVS Forum
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post #8371 of 10253 Old 04-11-2014, 08:38 PM
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I need advice. My picture gets really grainy during dark scenes. How can I resolve this. It's not grainy during bright scenes. I am watching a blu ray.
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post #8372 of 10253 Old 04-11-2014, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bori View Post

I need advice. My picture gets really grainy during dark scenes. How can I resolve this. It's not grainy during bright scenes. I am watching a blu ray.

Sorry bori - I didn't think you were serious having SDE on white scenes and grainy on dark scenes. I saw you have an Elite screen - some of the older models had severe hot spotting that could possibly cause what you're seeing.

I had one of those old Elite screens, I took pictures and contacted Elite - they replaced it with a new model at no charge.

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post #8373 of 10253 Old 04-11-2014, 09:59 PM
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Sorry guys, I think I fed the troll...

i am serious. I just bought the 1070 just trying to make sure I can resolve this with a setting adjustments
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post #8374 of 10253 Old 04-11-2014, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bori View Post

i am serious. I just bought the 1070 just trying to make sure I can resolve this with a setting adjustments
If viewing a dark scene in a movie, you may want to find out if the movie you are watching is grainy in the dark scenes. It is common for films to be very grainy, especially in dark scenes, so you aren't necessarily seeing a digital artifact induced by the projector, but you may be seeing a digital artifact inherent to the movie itself.

You may want to ask in the film forums section about films which have dark scenes which are known to not have a lot of digital noise. The BenQ is pretty well regarded as not having a lot of projector injected noise in dark scenes, but that must be help up against the reality of it being an entry level model.

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post #8375 of 10253 Old 04-11-2014, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post

If viewing a dark scene in a movie, you may want to find out if the movie you are watching is grainy in the dark scenes. It is common for films to be very grainy, especially in dark scenes, so you aren't necessarily seeing a digital artifact induced by the projector, but you may be seeing a digital artifact inherent to the movie itself.

You may want to ask in the film forums section about films which have dark scenes which are known to not have a lot of digital noise. The BenQ is pretty well regarded as not having a lot of projector injected noise in dark scenes, but that must be help up against the reality of it being an entry level model.



Better yet can you please recommend a couple of movies that have dark scenes that don't look grainy? So I can confirm this is a movie issue. Please I love this projector just want to make sure I have a good refurbished one.
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post #8376 of 10253 Old 04-11-2014, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bori View Post

Better yet can you please recommend a couple of movies that have dark scenes that don't look grainy? So I can confirm this is a movie issue. Please I love this projector just want to make sure I have a good refurbished one.
An old movie that was excellent for night scenes was True Lies... The first few minutes were excellent.

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post #8377 of 10253 Old 04-11-2014, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

An old movie that was excellent for night scenes was True Lies... The first few minutes were excellent.


How about the Dark Knight?
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post #8378 of 10253 Old 04-11-2014, 11:25 PM
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My lamp timer did not reset going to 1.08... any idea why? Still has 1776 hours on it like before.

Also, what's the consensus on best place to get a replacement lamp. Lots of the ones on ebay look not 100% legit, or the part number is slightly off...

Thanks!
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post #8379 of 10253 Old 04-11-2014, 11:40 PM
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OK just tried the movie on my 65 inch TV and the same movie looked worse on that TV. So I tried the latest EVIL DEAD. Which had plenty of dark scenes and they looked great. So I was wrong nothing wrong with projector. It was the source bluray. By the way the movie was Paranormal Activity the marked one. Thanks guys for the help
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post #8380 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 12:47 AM
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Really loving this projector. Money well spent.
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post #8381 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 12:57 AM
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Sorry guys for the dark scenes issue. Started to panic a bit. Should of checked other movies.
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post #8382 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 01:10 AM
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post #8383 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 06:16 AM
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Any help getting the 12v trigger to work? I have an elite screen that has cat5 out and it gives you a red and green wire. The BenQ has a mono jack so I striped one and it has a blue, red and bare wire. I've tried all kinds of combos but it's not working. Plus testing it a bitch since when I shut it down it takes a few minutes to actually shut down. Is there an easier way to test this? Any ideas on what wires to use? Do I have to turn it on or something?
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post #8384 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by detzx View Post

Any help getting the 12v trigger to work? I have an elite screen that has cat5 out and it gives you a red and green wire. The BenQ has a mono jack so I striped one and it has a blue, red and bare wire. I've tried all kinds of combos but it's not working. Plus testing it a bitch since when I shut it down it takes a few minutes to actually shut down. Is there an easier way to test this? Any ideas on what wires to use? Do I have to turn it on or something?

Easier way to test is with a 9 volt battery but I will go one step further for you. Here is a diagram of the pin out. You say you have 3 wires on the mono jack then you have a stereo jack not mono. Go to radio shack and they sell a mono 3.5 or 1/8 mini plug. It will come with 2 bare end wires. Then get yourself a Ethernet cable to pug into the screens port and long enough to reach you projector. Cut the end off the Ethernet and wire white/brown to the tip wire of the mono plug, that would be positive. Then wire the brown to the sleeve wire of the mono plug, this would be negative. But before you connect the mono to the Ethernet you can take the 9 volt battery and test the bare wires. Or if you want before you get any product take the pigtail that was supplied and use the red and green wires to test if you screen works with 12 volt to make sure it's not defective. Btw: the screen accepts 5-12 volt.

Let me know.
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post #8385 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bori View Post

Sorry guys for the dark scenes issue. Started to panic a bit. Should of checked other movies.

You did the right thing by checking on another tv. Remember, crap in crap out no matter what. Some movies are filmed to have grain. A old but good movie for grain is 3 Kings with George Clooney and Mark Walberg.
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post #8386 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 08:02 AM
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Wait.. it actually replaced your cable box? Do you still retain all of the functionality of the box? I'm assuming you can't DVR, correct?

So how does it work? You need to have it linked to your phone (app) to stream the content or..? More info please smile.gif

Do you have any android devices? That might help to explain. I still have one box that is the dvr but all the other TVs have an android box.

I will put a video on my Dropbox today to show what I'm doing
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post #8387 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 08:45 AM
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Hi guy's thinking about getting this projector but need some help. I'm looking at a distance of 16' from my 106" screen would this work thanks.

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post #8388 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 08:47 AM
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Hi guy's thinking about getting this projector but need some help. I'm looking at a distance of 16' from my 106" screen would this work thanks.

11.5 feet back is the MAX back you can go to get a 106 inch image... 16 feet back is a minimum of 146 fully zoomed out
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post #8389 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 08:56 AM
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Easier way to test is with a 9 volt battery but I will go one step further for you. Here is a diagram of the pin out. You say you have 3 wires on the mono jack then you have a stereo jack not mono. Go to radio shack and they sell a mono 3.5 or 1/8 mini plug. It will come with 2 bare end wires. Then get yourself a Ethernet cable to pug into the screens port and long enough to reach you projector. Cut the end off the Ethernet and wire white/brown to the tip wire of the mono plug, that would be positive. Then wire the brown to the sleeve wire of the mono plug, this would be negative. But before you connect the mono to the Ethernet you can take the 9 volt battery and test the bare wires. Or if you want before you get any product take the pigtail that was supplied and use the red and green wires to test if you screen works with 12 volt to make sure it's not defective. Btw: the screen accepts 5-12 volt.

Let me know.

Awesome, thanks. If I buy just a normal mono can I just cut one end? If so what colors would be there and how do they match up? I don't see the mono to base wires at RS.

Edit: I can't even find mono, they're all stereo. Surely I can do this with a stereo cable?
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post #8390 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by detzx View Post

Awesome, thanks. If I buy just a normal mono can I just cut one end? If so what colors would be there and how do they match up? I don't see the mono to base wires at RS.

Edit: I can't even find mono, they're all stereo. Surely I can do this with a stereo cable?

I know radio shack carries it. It is a mono male end with 2 wire on the other. I would advise against the stereo. I bought a stereo cable to try. I was just unplugging the 3.5 to test up and down while the pj was on. I must have grounded out part of the stereo sleeve and caused the pj to shut down and it needed to be unplugged. After reading it is a fail safe shut down.

If you use any 3.5 mono when you cut the end off you will have a center wire which is positive or called tip. Then the shielding wire which warped the center with be negative or sleeve. If you have the radio shack close by just go there and ask. I can't find it online but a few weeks ago I saw it there. The employee pointed it out. I decided not to do the trigger as sometimes we leave the screen down for a day or so if we are going to keep using it. Better than up down up down.
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post #8391 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wootpiggy View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cerberus83 View Post

Wait.. it actually replaced your cable box? Do you still retain all of the functionality of the box? I'm assuming you can't DVR, correct?

So how does it work? You need to have it linked to your phone (app) to stream the content or..? More info please smile.gif

Do you have any android devices? That might help to explain. I still have one box that is the dvr but all the other TVs have an android box.

I will put a video on my Dropbox today to show what I'm doing

Yes I do. The reason why I ask is bc I'm trying to find the way to get rid of my box and stop paying those crooks $10 to rent it. I know one can get a tuner that requires the card (you get it form your cable co), but it does not really replace the box since it has to be hooked up to another device (such a Xbox, ps3, PC, etc). What I'm looking for is a standalone device and it sound like this may be it...

Looking forward to the video... thx!
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post #8392 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 08:57 PM
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Yes I do. The reason why I ask is bc I'm trying to find the way to get rid of my box and stop paying those crooks $10 to rent it. I know one can get a tuner that requires the card (you get it form your cable co), but it does not really replace the box since it has to be hooked up to another device (such a Xbox, ps3, PC, etc). What I'm looking for is a standalone device and it sound like this may be it...

Looking forward to the video... thx!

Basically all you need is the Xfinity TV Go app. It allows you to watch live tv for quite a few channels and all of the OnDemand content. I just noticed tonight not all channels are available, but all the ones my wife and I watch are on there. And the OnDemand catalogue is keeping up with almost all the shows we watch on top of that.

 

Here is the video of the app in use.

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post #8393 of 10253 Old 04-12-2014, 09:12 PM
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I was worried that my projection screen falls in front of my center speaker. Thought I would need an acoustic screen. Now that I have tried it ever thing sounds perfect no issues at all.
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post #8394 of 10253 Old 04-13-2014, 06:31 AM
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A Cautionary Tale about Dust Blobs

After just over a year of extremely happy use of this projector, I encountered the dreaded 'waving-dust-blob' issue. I solved that one issue but produced another dust-related issue in the process.

This was the same day as a clean-up of the projector-room; which did yield some dust but shouldn't have affected the ceiling-mounted projector...

As a warning to other users, I'm going to summarize both what I did, indicating with asterisks (*) what you should never do. (Some of which I did myself.)

Right off the bat I'll say this: whilst DLP projectors normally have a partially-sealed light path (from the color wheel to the main lens); in the case of the W1070, this is only partially true for two reasons:
  1. The lamp and lamp assembly is ventilated for cooling purposes and for this reason cannot be sealed; so dust is expected to accumulate here. Fortunately, removing the lamp is simple on this projector and cleaning it simple as well.
  2. However, we'd expect dust-sealing from the color wheel onwards (through to the main output lens) since this is standard for DLP projectors.
    Alas, this is not the case with the W1070 - or at least not on my specific unit (a Feb-2013 built, HW Rev 1.03). It appears that there is a deficit of dust-sealing beneath the lens assembly; making it vulnerable to dust accumulation which can produce dust spots that wreck the projected image.



The Story

Last night we noticed a 'waving' aberration at the bottom-center of the image. It was very obvious on bright scenes and extremely distracting.
It looked like this (I've highlighted the affected region):



Because it was moving ('waving') constantly, it was extremely noticeable.

This is an issue I've seen reported here before and the reaction is normally to RMA back to BenQ; but I'm a few weeks out of warranty so that's not a real option for me.

Also since it was both moving/waving and gently changing color, I could be pretty certain that it was:
  • In the path of airflow; and
  • In front of the color wheel (were it behind the color wheel, it probably would've been both static in movement and not changing color)

This narrowed it down to either dust (or the like) around the lamp assembly (in the light-path); or around the opening of the color wheel. Since the lamp assembly is easy to remove and the color wheel is visible when doing so, there should be no warranty issues with giving the assembly a clean.

So that's what I did. Following the manual, I opened up the lamp compartment and removed the lamp assembly:


The assembly looked like this:


The opening of the color wheel looked like this:


..as you can see, the wheel was on the blue segment! wink.gif


After relatively careful inspection of the lamp assembly, I didn't notice any obvious strings of dust (and the specs of dust on the actual bulb reflector were certainly not the cause of the issue I was seeing). It was evening so I was using artificial light; so it's possible there was more dust than I could clearly see (* BAD IDEA: NEVER ATTEMPT ANY REPAIR/MAINTENANCE WITHOUT PROPER, BRIGHT, SUNLIGHT! *)

Using camera-cleaning-safe, low-velocity canned air (that I had verified - by spraying onto a mirror - left no marks, streaks or liquid!), I gently - from a distance - sprayed the lamp assembly - whilst it was removed from the projector (* NEVER DO THIS WHILST THE ASSEMBLY IS STILL IN THE PROJECTOR!! *); including the bulb itself via the ventilation holes. A bit of dust did emerge; but it didn't appear to be much.


And this is where I went wrong: having seemingly had little luck with cleaning out the removed lamp assembly, I gently blew around the opening of the projector itself with the canned air; in the general direction of the color wheel opening where the lamp would normally sit (* NEVER DO THIS! *). A lot of dust emerged; so although the opening appeared to be clean to the naked eye, there was likely dust around this region that was causing the issue. I had thought that provided I ensured that there was no airflow that could cause dust to slip behind the color wheel, I was safe. (* WRONG! The W1070'S LIGHT PATH IS NOT PROPERLY SEALED! *)

After allowing the dust to fall out of the opening and onto the ground (I did this whilst it was upside down), I was satisfied that I'd resolved the issue.
And I was right: placing the assembly back into the projector; closing the cover and powering it up with a bright image displayed, immediately I could see the 'waving' aberration was gone. Score!
Until we put on a dark scene: and now I could see dust-spots (shade-above-black circles) throughout the image. There were half-a-dozen of these or more; and they wrecked any dark scene.
Adjusting the focus of the projector on a black scene (eco-blank), I could bring these into focus: they looked like stars in the night sky. Disaster.

I powered off, waited for the lamp to cool, removed it again, and inspected it: it looked perfect.

I then did the standard 'dust-behind-the-lens' detection test: I shone a flashlight through the color-wheel opening ('simulating' the bulb); and looked through the front lens like a microscope: and lo-and-behold, the same pattern of stars was visible.
Doing so, I also noticed a fortune of light leaking from beneath the lens assembly, indicating the bottom of the assembly is not properly dust-sealed.
This is either a design-flaw (on older models like mine perhaps?) or a manufacturing defect; since the light-path from the color-wheel onwards should be sealed in a DLP projector.

So what had happened? My gentle blowing around the region where the lamp housing sits had successfully removed the dust from in front of the light-path causing the original issue, but re-settled it in the poorly-sealed lens assembly; causing this new issue.

Once again, the dust-behind-the-lens issue is one that I've seen reported on this model several times before (but not recently); so I'm hoping this is an issue that BenQ has addressed in newer hardware revisions of the projector. There's no easy way to correct this either, since the lens-assembly is within the projector itself and not user-accessible - so it needs to be sent in.

The lessons learned are thus:
  1. If you experience either my original dust-around-the-lamp issue or my later dust-in-the-lens issue, and you're still in warranty, RMA it back to BenQ.
  2. If you experience my original dust-around-the-lamp issue and are out of warranty, there's little risk in removing the lamp assembly and giving it a clean (whilst it's removed from the projector!); provided you do so in a manner that doesn't produce streaking or leave further dirt.
  3. Do not assume the light-path from color-wheel to lens is sealed. It isn't. This means that any form of cleaning within the projector itself should be done in a localized manner; and without any methods that might shift dust around in an uncontrolled fashion (meaning compressed air is out of the question).


I've contacted the seller of my projector (I purchased via a reseller) to see if I can arrange a repair: but since I'm just a few weeks out of warranty, I suspect it's going to cost me.


In the meantime, let this be a cautionary tale to all about the perils of dealing with dust within any projector!
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BenQ W1070 Projector; Xtreamer Ultra 2 (running XBMC on OpenELEC) via Sony STR-DH540 AVR with Boston Acoustics SoundWare XS SE 5.1 Audio. MediaBrowser3 for Mobile Streaming.

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post #8395 of 10253 Old 04-13-2014, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wootpiggy View Post

Basically all you need is the Xfinity TV Go app. It allows you to watch live tv for quite a few channels and all of the OnDemand content. I just noticed tonight not all channels are available, but all the ones my wife and I watch are on there. And the OnDemand catalogue is keeping up with almost all the shows we watch on top of that.

Here is the video of the app in use.

That's awesome!! Looks like this is exactly what I have been looking for: not paying the rental fee for the TWC box, yet still be able to watch cable (vs. Roku/Amazon, etc)

Three quick questions:
1. Can you hook this up directly to the receiver vs. BenQ?
2. Can it be hidden behind the wall and you can still use it?
3. Can it be used by Harmony remote?
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post #8396 of 10253 Old 04-13-2014, 08:58 AM
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kreeturez great write up. I had a speck of dust on my original unit with a build date of March 2013. My replacement unit has a build date of October 2013. So far the newer unit has been great but I haven't used it much thus far.

Disclaimer:
The words above are based on loose facts mixed with my opinion, the latter of which is subject to change.

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post #8397 of 10253 Old 04-13-2014, 02:36 PM
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Doing some measuring and drawing at a 110" screen what is the best distance from the screen to mount the pj? Also looking at building a new stand to go under it does the bottom of the screen at 21.5" off the floor sound right?
Thanks
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post #8398 of 10253 Old 04-13-2014, 08:29 PM
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Just figured I would show my screen valance now completed.

028EE9D8-E15E-44ED-9321-932280822101.jpg
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post #8399 of 10253 Old 04-13-2014, 08:37 PM
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I like that how did you make it? Can u post more pics? Is that and electric screen? If so are u using a trigger to lower screen?
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post #8400 of 10253 Old 04-14-2014, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bori View Post

I like that how did you make it? Can u post more pics? Is that and electric screen? If so are u using a trigger to lower screen?

Here is the whole build thread. I do not use the trigger as of now, but I have a made cable just incase for later. I like to leave the screen down so the trigger would not be good right now.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1526213/tv-projector-screen-console-build/0_60#post_24603823
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