BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 331 - AVS Forum
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post #9901 of 10613 Old 09-03-2014, 11:23 PM
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Just got mine today....maybe it's the weed but damn this looks good. Upgraded form an optoma ep719. Heavy Metal bluray on my htpc is magical. I agree the dark could be a little better but after fooling around with the projector and software settings I've got a real nice picture. Love the colors so much better than my 8 year old projector!
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post #9902 of 10613 Old 09-04-2014, 03:59 AM
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Been on this forum and reading so much lately my head hurts.Goal is to watch movies in scope on the biggest 2.35 screen I can get on my throw of 10" or less. Yes I want that whole cinema experience! No games, not TV nothing else!

1. If I was to watch Scope movie , could I just zoom it out so that the gray bars over spill onto the wall?(cover my back wall with Velvet and in essence make the bars disappear).
This is essentially watching the movie in 1920x800 right?(Black bars still use up pixels) And by doing so, is it through remote or manual type switch on the W1070?

2. Been seeing people posting pics of panel alignment and such with these white bars onto screen. How would/could you even do that with the Ben Q on a 2.35 screen? Would you just have play with zoom to adjust it all fit on to panel?Letterbox style?

3. Lumagen mini (not sure if I spelled it right) This little gizmo allows me to stretch/compress 16:9 source material into a 2.35 screen correct? But would it be helpful to me in reaching my goal of watching movies on a 2.35.

Was even thinking of getting A-lens with a curved screen. But, after calculating the costs the only way would me to even get it was with a W1070. Which , i think might be dumb considering the cost of A-lens in relation to projector. Or just hold off on the A-lens if this Zoom thing works with the BenQ (question number 1 )

Hoping in future there is a much nicer shorter throw type projector for small workable spaces.
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post #9903 of 10613 Old 09-04-2014, 05:12 AM
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Cartoys, while the amount of adjustable zoom on the w1070 isn't high enough to let you reach up and zoom-out for the occasional 16:9 content you'll use..having conversion software do it for you (by scaling 1080p 16:9 material down to the same 800-810pixel height as your 2.39 content) will save you from needing to manually zoom, adjust offset and then refocus anyway. You can even do this with a computer instead of the lumagen if you want.

Going without the anamorphic lens means you can just overspill the black bars above and below the screen, yes.
You shouldn't need to use any projector/remote features, 2.39 will be totally "pop in a disc and play" while 16:9 will need to be zoomed small by the lumagen or a computer.

Even a cheap computer with a disc-player and a flexible free mediaplayer like VLC-player could be used.
I believe you could also just set a computer to an 800-810pixel high 16:9 resolution and switch to that for 16:9 and use standard 1080x1920res for 2.39.

Considering the outrageous prices that usually come with the A-lens AND the simplicity of just using some software to scale your rare 16:9 viewings down to fit..software or the lumagen seems like the better way to do it.
-------------------------------------------------

OR, if you really want a better contrast level
Look for something like the Panasonic ae8000 which has automatic zoom and memory that can size the image for your screen without any lens or special equipment or software!
It has higher contrast than the w1070 (about 2.5x as much) and the only problem then would be its longer throw.

You can get a big picture despite the longer throw by pointing the projector backwards (away from screen) and bouncing it off a modest-sized mirror (first-surface mirror, if you can find one). This essentially gives it more room for a longer throw. Or you could use an add-on wider-angle lens as seen here:

Question About Wide Angle Lens and My Projector
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post #9904 of 10613 Old 09-04-2014, 08:54 AM
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His head will hurt even more now...

Great tips though.
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post #9905 of 10613 Old 09-04-2014, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pletwals View Post
His head will hurt even more now... Great tips though.
No doubt, lol
The cartoys information cramming migraine.

The last major option would be to go with the biggest size 16:9 screen you'll be able to fill with whatever projector you'll be using and put a strip of removable masking across the top and bottom to overspill onto.

That'd let you simply use whatever projector you want, no lens no computer no software necessary.
When it comes time for the occasional 16:9 content, you take off the masking for that.

This is what I've done myself because it was inexpensive and easy and works for any screen-size up to 9.5ft wide.
If interested, check the build-thread in my sig below and skip the first (giant) paragraph until you get to the pictures of the metal poles.
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post #9906 of 10613 Old 09-04-2014, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oranjoose View Post
Quick question:


When do you think the W1070 will be discontinued?


Using past BenQ projectors as historical examples, what kind of time frame would you predict?


The reason I ask is that the projector is currently sitting at around $700 on Amazon, and I'm interested in purchasing it, but there's a bit of uncertainty about whether or not I'm going to move to a new place where the projector won't really work. I don't think I'll know until a few months down the road.


I'm afraid that the W1070 will be discontinued by then and achieve some kind of legendary status with huge markups on eBay.


Thanks!
BenQ Debuts New HT1075 and HT1085ST Home Theater Projectors
By: HomeTheaterReview.com, August 31, 2014
http://hometheaterreview.com/benq-de...er-projectors/

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post #9907 of 10613 Old 09-04-2014, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
Cartoys, while the amount of adjustable zoom on the w1070 isn't high enough to let you reach up and zoom-out for the occasional 16:9 content you'll use..having conversion software do it for you (by scaling 1080p 16:9 material down to the same 800-810pixel height as your 2.39 content) will save you from needing to manually zoom, adjust offset and then refocus anyway. You can even do this with a computer instead of the lumagen if you want.

Going without the anamorphic lens means you can just overspill the black bars above and below the screen, yes.
You shouldn't need to use any projector/remote features, 2.39 will be totally "pop in a disc and play" while 16:9 will need to be zoomed small by the lumagen or a computer.

Even a cheap computer with a disc-player and a flexible free mediaplayer like VLC-player could be used.
I believe you could also just set a computer to an 800-810pixel high 16:9 resolution and switch to that for 16:9 and use standard 1080x1920res for 2.39.

Considering the outrageous prices that usually come with the A-lens AND the simplicity of just using some software to scale your rare 16:9 viewings down to fit..software or the lumagen seems like the better way to do it.
-------------------------------------------------

OR, if you really want a better contrast level
Look for something like the Panasonic ae8000 which has automatic zoom and memory that can size the image for your screen without any lens or special equipment or software!
It has higher contrast than the w1070 (about 2.5x as much) and the only problem then would be its longer throw.

You can get a big picture despite the longer throw by pointing the projector backwards (away from screen) and bouncing it off a modest-sized mirror (first-surface mirror, if you can find one). This essentially gives it more room for a longer throw. Or you could use an add-on wider-angle lens as seen here:

Question About Wide Angle Lens and My Projector
Yah, that idea of a mirror reflection is a good idea, but knowing me I would get really fed up quickly with trying to adjust that pic especially if it was bouncing off a mirror (sounds hard)

Since I got a max width of space to use anyways, I should get the biggest 16x9 screen I can get my hands on that accommodates that width size and mask off the top and bottom bars for viewing scope movies. I just realized that if I get the biggest 2.35 screen width for my my walls it would essentially be the SAME size as a 16:9 usable size anyways(wifey explained that to me )

This is correct right?
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post #9908 of 10613 Old 09-04-2014, 06:29 PM
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Hello everyone. I have one question that I'm sure you can answer. I want to use the projector with an 180 inch screen and sit as close as I can to enjoy more the 3d. With such a big screen if I sit 10 feet from the screen, will I see the pixel grid or the pixels?
Will I see any difference with w1070+, compared to the w1070?
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post #9909 of 10613 Old 09-04-2014, 07:38 PM
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BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$

Quote:
Originally Posted by CARTmen View Post
Hello everyone. I have one question that I'm sure you can answer. I want to use the projector with an 180 inch screen and sit as close as I can to enjoy more the 3d. With such a big screen if I sit 10 feet from the screen, will I see the pixel grid or the pixels?

I think you will on both projectors. Gaps between pixels are small (SDE is not a problem with this projector - or any current DLP's in this segment); but blown up to such a large size, I suspect you might start noticing the grid if you're sitting so close...

But the bigger issue is brightness: as bright as the projector is, 180" is approaching the upper limit of what you can get out of it without using some form of gain on your screen.
This is especially true with 3D: since active glasses cut out a good deal of light - even when they're switched off. In operation, the image viewed through the glasses is even dimmer than that because then, only one lens is 'open' at a given time - that's a lot of perceived brightness that gets lost...

Even with the extra 10% of brightness from the '+' model, I think this is still going to be an issue such a large screen size - at least for 3D...

BenQ W1070 Projector; Xtreamer Ultra 2 (running XBMC on OpenELEC) via Sony STR-DH540 AVR with Boston Acoustics SoundWare XS SE 5.1 Audio. MediaBrowser3 for Mobile Streaming.

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post #9910 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Cartoys View Post
I just realized that if I get the biggest 2.35 screen width for my my walls it would essentially be the SAME size as a 16:9 usable size anyways(wifey explained that to me )
This is correct right?
Unless you have ceilings that rub against your head, yes that'll be correct. Either way you'd end up with the same width screen.
That's neat to hear that you're both somewhat involved in this to such a point.

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post #9911 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 02:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CARTmen View Post
Hello everyone. I have one question that I'm sure you can answer. I want to use the projector with an 180 inch screen and sit as close as I can to enjoy more the 3d. With such a big screen if I sit 10 feet from the screen, will I see the pixel grid or the pixels?
Will I see any difference with w1070+, compared to the w1070?
It's pretty rare for folks to sit closer than 1:1 screen-width:seating distance, though I'd think something like 1:0.8 would still work alright-ish. That'd put you at a seasick 10.5ft distance..you COULD make it, but I'm inclined to agree with kreetures.

You'd be left with 14.5ftL (14ftL is standard 2D theater, but all the way down to 10ftL is still often considered alright). 3D would take you down around 4-5ftL (many theaters have had people complain about 3ftL for 3D but not for 5ftL). So you'd be skirting the edge pretty narrowly PLUS you can expect to lose an additional 30% and most of it seems to fall soon whereas the rest takes a long while.
Assume you'd get roughly the same or worse performance of a dimmer 3D cinema showing for your own 3D.

That all said, ftL preferences can be fairly personal and also aided with a little gamma adjustment (which the w1070 has in spades)..so you might still find that you like it just fine. I would mostly suggest you try it on a wall before buying any large screen (or better yet, simply build your own screen/paint a wall flat-white and save some serious money)..and try it in eco-mode to get an idea how dark it'll be after several months.

If you do go the 180" route. I demand pictures.

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post #9912 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 09:02 AM
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Thanks a lot for the answers.
So what are my options here? Even with the 2200 lumen of w1070+, the image is going to look dark? Do I have any options to increase the luminosity or there's no other option than use a smaller screen? To have a good 3D image, what is the maximum size of the screen I can get?
My room is completely dark. No windows or any other source of light.
I promise to take some photos if I decide to do it.
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post #9913 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 11:37 AM
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I finally got my projector to align properly to my Elite "100 screen, now another issue that is driving me nuts. I finally was able to adjust the projector onto elite screen. The other night after watching a movie I turned off my projector for the night. Last night i fired up the projector and the image was all mess up. The focus were off and the image went beyond the screen. I thought it was weird cause both the screen and projector was not moved at all, I then went and adjusted the image again. This morning I turned it on and it was out of focus. The image this time was fine (test pattern match up with the screen) but it was out of focus. What could be causing the projector to lose the image after turning it off for the night? Both my plasma and projector is connected to a hdmi switcher. The switch is then connected to my Denon AVR-S700W. My projector sits on a stand behind my couch. Projector is about 11 feet from the screen. Projector is connected to my htpc with a intel 4000 card set to ycbcr444. Btw in order to align the image to the test pattern keystone has to be set at 4.


projector



keystone at zero



keystone at 4

Last edited by dazz87; 09-05-2014 at 12:30 PM.
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post #9914 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 01:01 PM
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I'm having a terrible time trying to compare potential new projectors against what I already have. My current projector is a Sharp DT-510, and it has begun failing. Other than the poor black levels, I have loved everything else about it. Will the W1070 have better blacks than my DT-510? I can;t find comparisons. Other reviews lead me to believe that everything else about it is great. Black levels are my main concern. Can someone let me know (with references/measurements if available) if the W1070 is better/blacker. Thanks!
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post #9915 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazz87 View Post
I finally got my projector to align properly to my Elite "100 screen, now another issue that is driving me nuts. I finally was able to adjust the projector onto elite screen. The other night after watching a movie I turned off my projector for the night. Last night i fired up the projector and the image was all mess up. The focus were off and the image went beyond the screen. I thought it was weird cause both the screen and projector was not moved at all, I then went and adjusted the image again. This morning I turned it on and it was out of focus. The image this time was fine (test pattern match up with the screen) but it was out of focus. What could be causing the projector to lose the image after turning it off for the night? Both my plasma and projector is connected to a hdmi switcher. The switch is then connected to my Denon AVR-S700W. My projector sits on a stand behind my couch. Projector is about 11 feet from the screen. Projector is connected to my htpc with a intel 4000 card set to ycbcr444. Btw in order to align the image to the test pattern keystone has to be set at 4.


projector



keystone at zero



keystone at 4
How high from floor to bottom of screen?

How high from floor to center of lens?

As for out if focus do you put the lens cap on when not in use, over night?

The easiest way to fix so you don't use keystone is.

Return keystone to 0 first like your first picture. Then lower the front of the PJ or raise the rear of the PJ. I know this will make the test pattern fall off the bottom of the screen. But you need to do this first.

After you get the 2 sides aligned with the sides (I know your image will be off the screen some at the bottom) then you have 2 options to move the image up.

1. Have you used the lens shift screw under that cover? If you have not turn that screw to make the whole image go up. If you cannot get the whole image up to the screen with out tilting the PJ then you need to raise the whole PJ up. Not by adjusting anything but whole elevation.

2. If you get the whole PJ up and it goes maybe an inch higher than the top just then adjust the screw lens shift down a little.

Right now your PJ is still to low and you are right now correcting it by tilting the PJ up by means of upping the front or lowering the back then adjusting keystone. I know it's hard to put it all together but once you see how it's done it will be supper easy any other time.

Right now basically the lens is not perfectly 90 degrees up and down with the screen. You right now are perfectly (or close ) to 90 degrees left and right if the screen.

Another way to measure for square is a piece of string and 2 people. One hold the string right at the top of the screen and other at the PJ center lens. Then have the person take the string now to the bottom of the screen. Where that same measurement intersects is where the center of lens should be. You can do this side to side also to get you in tinkering range.

I wish you were closer as I could show you easier than tell. But like I said once you do it you will see how easy it is. Right now that might not be clear.
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post #9916 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
How high from floor to bottom of screen?
I guessing about 3 feet from the floor


Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
How high from floor to center of lens?
Again guessing about 4 1/2 feet from the floor


Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
As for out if focus do you put the lens cap on when not in use, over night?
Yes len cap was on over night. The cap was on when I fired up the projector and forgot to remove it. I remove it and the picture were all mess up. The second time I had it on but removed it before turing on the projector but still cause the projector to be out of focus. Is it better for me to not put on the len cap when not in used?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
The easiest way to fix so you don't use keystone is.

Return keystone to 0 first like your first picture. Then lower the front of the PJ or raise the rear of the PJ. I know this will make the test pattern fall off the bottom of the screen. But you need to do this first.

After you get the 2 sides aligned with the sides (I know your image will be off the screen some at the bottom) then you have 2 options to move the image up.
Okay will give this a shot. I read that some people believe that using keystone will affect picture quailty but when i tested it (set to 4) picture looks as good as if keystone was set to 0.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
1. Have you used the lens shift screw under that cover? If you have not turn that screw to make the whole image go up. If you cannot get the whole image up to the screen with out tilting the PJ then you need to raise the whole PJ up. Not by adjusting anything but whole elevation.
Yes, i am using the lens shift to get it to align


Just wondering do I need to line up len to the center of the screen? And basically start from there to do the adjustment?

Last edited by dazz87; 09-05-2014 at 02:28 PM.
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post #9917 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 02:29 PM
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Putting the lens cap on often moves the lens just enough to knock the picture out of focus.

Another note on keystone: for me, the big difference was at closer differences and I could clearly see text move from slightly blurry to razor sharp (on the PS3 menu).

Tim S.
Former 35mm and Digital Projectionist @ Regal Cinemas

Currently watching on: BenQ W1070, 82" 1.0 Gain Screen, PS3, with Yamaha RX-V473, SVS PB-1000, a Def Tech CS-8040HD, 2 SM65 for L/R, and 2 PM 800s for surrounds.
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post #9918 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CARTmen View Post
Thanks a lot for the answers.
So what are my options here? Even with the 2200 lumen of w1070+, the image is going to look dark? Do I have any options to increase the luminosity or there's no other option than use a smaller screen? To have a good 3D image, what is the maximum size of the screen I can get?
My room is completely dark. No windows or any other source of light.
I promise to take some photos if I decide to do it.
Manufacturer specs lie and exaggerate, and you should expect mire around 1400-1700lumens.
You can boost the visibility of dark scenes by properly adjusting brightness and then lowering gamma slightly, but besides making sure to use bright lamp mode and turn brilliantcolor on, that's about all you can really do to brighten the image if you find it too dim.

It very well might be perfect to you, but test it out on a wall first before paying money on a screen that could be too big.

If you're concerned about it being too dark but still want a large screen, somethin around 140" would be a decent compromise. Sitting 9-10ft from a 140" screen would still feel like second/third row at a movie AND it should keep you around 5-6ftL in 3D even years down the road. It'll be brighter than any movie theater.
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post #9919 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredxr2d2 View Post
Putting the lens cap on often moves the lens just enough to knock the picture out of focus.
Thanks I will be leaving it off from now on
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post #9920 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 03:52 PM
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Okay guys, I got my i1D3 Colorimeter. I have the newest projector with the backlit remote. Definitely different than the projector central settings.

Here is cinema mode no calibration
http://imgur.com/ztXbvqo


Here is after calibration. All delta's except for the 100% are below 1 which is really tight.
http://imgur.com/IBiUYdA


Gamma
http://imgur.com/iQdrJ6I


I first didn't realize I had brilliant color on and the top and bottom of chart looked a lot worse. I turned it off and started over and found better results. It was pushing off the grayscale at the ends for sure. If you use my settings make sure to leave it off. Color looked pretty good. I'm not going to post the chart but delta is under 3 for all colors. Red was at like 7 before some tuning and green was at 3.2 or so but they are both under after some mild tweaking.

I am very happy with the settings. If you make the changes make sure to put on a movie or something and pause a human face if you can. Make the color changes and you will see the picture change for sure. It is noticeable.

If enough people want it I will do it again with different lamp settings.

****These settings will not work with any other lamp setting. ***

Here are the settings

Mode - Cinema
Brightness - 50
Contrast - 50
Sharpness - Default (Didn't measure so turn to personal preference)
Lamp Power ECO
Advanced Menu
Color Temp
RGain - 101
GGail - 100
BGain - 105
ROff - 251
GOff - 249
BOff - 254
Color mgmt
Red
46
51
48
Green
50
49
47
Blue (No Changes)
Gamma - 2.4
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post #9921 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 03:56 PM
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What does the gamma graph look like with gamma at 2.2?

Tim S.
Former 35mm and Digital Projectionist @ Regal Cinemas

Currently watching on: BenQ W1070, 82" 1.0 Gain Screen, PS3, with Yamaha RX-V473, SVS PB-1000, a Def Tech CS-8040HD, 2 SM65 for L/R, and 2 PM 800s for surrounds.
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post #9922 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 03:58 PM
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Also: would adjusting contrast/brightness to your room effect any of the gain settings in the CMS?

Tim S.
Former 35mm and Digital Projectionist @ Regal Cinemas

Currently watching on: BenQ W1070, 82" 1.0 Gain Screen, PS3, with Yamaha RX-V473, SVS PB-1000, a Def Tech CS-8040HD, 2 SM65 for L/R, and 2 PM 800s for surrounds.
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post #9923 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 03:59 PM
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And thanks for sharing your settings and info -- I think it's super helpful to see all this info!

Tim S.
Former 35mm and Digital Projectionist @ Regal Cinemas

Currently watching on: BenQ W1070, 82" 1.0 Gain Screen, PS3, with Yamaha RX-V473, SVS PB-1000, a Def Tech CS-8040HD, 2 SM65 for L/R, and 2 PM 800s for surrounds.
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post #9924 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by fredxr2d2 View Post
What does the gamma graph look like with gamma at 2.2?
Almost flat across the 2.2 line all the way. Adjusting gamma slightly throws off the numbers. Drop blue off 255 and RGain to 102.

I'm actually glad you mentioned that because I think I might like gamma 2.2 better. Blacks seemed to get crushed some in 2.4 but might be the material. I will play around with that some.

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Originally Posted by fredxr2d2 View Post
Also: would adjusting contrast/brightness to your room effect any of the gain settings in the CMS?
Yes. The first step was using the standard AVS 709 slides. Leaving the defaults was fine. I tried to drop contrast to make the picture dimmer but it threw off the bottom on the grayscale to where I wouldn't be able to get it this tight. That was with 40 contrast. I might be able to do 45 but it's not enough difference to make the change. Defaults are probably the best here. What did you have in mind?
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post #9925 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 06:11 PM
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Manufacturer specs lie and exaggerate, and you should expect mire around 1400-1700lumens.
You can boost the visibility of dark scenes by properly adjusting brightness and then lowering gamma slightly, but besides making sure to use bright lamp mode and turn brilliantcolor on, that's about all you can really do to brighten the image if you find it too dim.

It very well might be perfect to you, but test it out on a wall first before paying money on a screen that could be too big.

If you're concerned about it being too dark but still want a large screen, somethin around 140" would be a decent compromise. Sitting 9-10ft from a 140" screen would still feel like second/third row at a movie AND it should keep you around 5-6ftL in 3D even years down the road. It'll be brighter than any movie theater.
And with a 1.5 gain screen or 2.0, would I see a difference? Higher gain screens have disadvantages in this case?
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post #9926 of 10613 Old 09-05-2014, 09:21 PM
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And with a 1.5 gain screen or 2.0, would I see a difference? Higher gain screens have disadvantages in this case?
You'd definitely see a difference as long as it's really getting the gain it's claiming and as long as you've got your projector aimed perfectly with your seating. Even then however any 3D projector under $1800 isn't going to have a long enough throw-distance/zoom to get good uniformity on a high-gain screen, so you'll likely end up with a noticeable hotspot and dimmer sides.

There are definitely disadvantages to going high-gain. Not least if which can be price.
Seriously though, putting it in 3D and switching to eco mode and trying against a large wall may prove all fears of it being dark to be groundless. You might love it completely.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #9927 of 10613 Old 09-06-2014, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SightSeeker1 View Post
I just bought a i1Display Pro so I'll start over and test it out.
How much did you get your i1Display Pro for? If only there was somewhere I could "rent" one. Also thanks a lot for the settings. I assume you performed your calibration with the newest firmware 1.08? I'll be trying out your settings; hopefully it gives noticeable improvement in noise level and black levels.
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post #9928 of 10613 Old 09-06-2014, 05:15 AM
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I just bought a i1Display Pro so I'll start over and test it out.
How much did you get your i1Display Pro for? If only there was somewhere I could "rent" one. Also thanks a lot for the settings. I assume you performed your calibration with the newest firmware 1.08? I'll be trying out your settings; hopefully it gives noticeable improvement in noise level and black levels.
$224 on Amazon. It's well worth it. If you look in the display calibration forum, there is a cheaper one that is just as accurate that takes the readings slower. I think around $170.
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post #9929 of 10613 Old 09-06-2014, 06:13 AM
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$224 on Amazon. It's well worth it. If you look in the display calibration forum, there is a cheaper one that is just as accurate that takes the readings slower. I think around $170.
True story, that would be the colorMunki. It has a few limitations for what software you can use it with, but it's generally said to be a really nice device. Same internals, just firmware limits added in for the sake of proving the other is needlessly higher-priced..I guess that's what they were aiming for, .

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #9930 of 10613 Old 09-06-2014, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by SightSeeker1 View Post
Almost flat across the 2.2 line all the way. Adjusting gamma slightly throws off the numbers. Drop blue off 255 and RGain to 102.

I'm actually glad you mentioned that because I think I might like gamma 2.2 better. Blacks seemed to get crushed some in 2.4 but might be the material. I will play around with that some.



Yes. The first step was using the standard AVS 709 slides. Leaving the defaults was fine. I tried to drop contrast to make the picture dimmer but it threw off the bottom on the grayscale to where I wouldn't be able to get it this tight. That was with 40 contrast. I might be able to do 45 but it's not enough difference to make the change. Defaults are probably the best here. What did you have in mind?
I'm using 1.07, and these settings: http://www.avforums.com/threads/benq...tings.1761516/

Although I have sharpness set to 0 because I noticed it reduced artifacts. I do like these settings over the S & V ones. I think they look more natural in my room. I'm just wondering if brightness and contrast settings can help black levels look darker.

Tim S.
Former 35mm and Digital Projectionist @ Regal Cinemas

Currently watching on: BenQ W1070, 82" 1.0 Gain Screen, PS3, with Yamaha RX-V473, SVS PB-1000, a Def Tech CS-8040HD, 2 SM65 for L/R, and 2 PM 800s for surrounds.
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