BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 348 - AVS Forum
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post #10411 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
The w1070 also has a powered USB.

It doesn't... The USB service port is 'slave' (rather than host) and thus doesn't provide power.

That said, if you're already running power to the projector from an outlet, powering a device plugged into it shouldn't be much hassle.
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post #10412 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kreeturez View Post
It doesn't... The USB service port is 'slave' (rather than host) and thus doesn't provide power.

That said, if you're already running power to the projector from an outlet, powering a device plugged into it shouldn't be much hassle.
When you have to run it through walls, its more of a hassle. Honestly, for the 100 dollar difference between these things, its not worth it to me to have to have a separate power source wired.
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post #10413 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 10:49 AM
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BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$

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Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
When you have to run it through walls, its more of a hassle. Honestly, for the 100 dollar difference between these things, its not worth it to me to have to have a separate power source wired.

If I were buying now, I might just get the 1075 as well. But if laying wiring, ideally you want a plug point near the projector for future-proofing. Alternatively it's easy to run a plug-point extension to the mount and power the projector off that using a short power cord (the projector power cable is the same thickness as a regular extension cable; so this is no less convenient to do).
This way you're covered no matter what needs to be powered there in future (not all Wireless-HDMI solutions can run off powered USB, for instance).

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post #10414 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 10:51 AM
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My setup

Finally got my projector setup ceiling mounted and just projecting straight onto a light tan wall. Looks pretty good to me. This is taken a little from the side so that is why it looks skewed. I will post pics with the lights on later tonight if I remember.
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post #10415 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by chmcke01 View Post
I could be wrong, but I don't even believe my power cord was 6'...I think it was more like 5'...
Thanks. 5' would be way too short.

I didn't even think about the power chord until I saw it mentioned in another thread. I may be able to find something at work and if not, there is a local store that carries that sort of stuff cheap.
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post #10416 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 01:07 PM
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Hi everyone!

I bought a w1070 about a week ago and it functioned just fine the first few days.

All of a sudden, since yesterday, the projector shuts off after 5 minutes. The power light is solid red and the temp light is solid green.

When I attempt to boot up the projector right away, the fans start blowing again and the lamp light starts flashing red for about 2 to 3 minutes, then the projector boots up again automatically.
When I just wait 10 minutes before booting it up again I don't get the red lamp flashing light, it just boots straight up, only to shut down again after 5 minutes.

I've looked at the fans and they seem to be spinning (I could only see 3 fans, im not sure how many there are). I also tried high altitude mode but that doesn't seem to work either. The projector is in a cool room with lots of space to breathe.

Anyone know what this could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
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post #10417 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yekezei View Post
Hi everyone!

I bought a w1070 about a week ago and it functioned just fine the first few days.

All of a sudden, since yesterday, the projector shuts off after 5 minutes. The power light is solid red and the temp light is solid green.

When I attempt to boot up the projector right away, the fans start blowing again and the lamp light starts flashing red for about 2 to 3 minutes, then the projector boots up again automatically.
When I just wait 10 minutes before booting it up again I don't get the red lamp flashing light, it just boots straight up, only to shut down again after 5 minutes.

I've looked at the fans and they seem to be spinning (I could only see 3 fans, im not sure how many there are). I also tried high altitude mode but that doesn't seem to work either. The projector is in a cool room with lots of space to breathe.

Anyone know what this could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
See the link page 52. Was it new? Do you have a warranty,I'd contact the seller and demand to repair or replace.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/...anual_7265.pdf
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post #10418 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yekezei View Post
Hi everyone!

I bought a w1070 about a week ago and it functioned just fine the first few days.

All of a sudden, since yesterday, the projector shuts off after 5 minutes. The power light is solid red and the temp light is solid green.

That light combination definitely indicates a non-working fan. There're 4 fans in total (there's one internally that's not visible - so that one may not be functioning). Alternatively one of the others is spinning but not reaching full speed.

Swap it out - return to sender!

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post #10419 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredfish View Post
Thanks. 5' would be way too short.

I didn't even think about the power chord until I saw it mentioned in another thread. I may be able to find something at work and if not, there is a local store that carries that sort of stuff cheap.
You can't run a power cord behind your walls. It's a fire hazard and not to electrical code. You can run power extensions using Romex which are to code, or have a proper outlet installed, or surface run power. But, if you are looking at running power behind walls, then do yourself a favor and run a HDMI cable (or two) as well as a couple of cat-5e/6 cables. At the end of the day, properly wiring your projector up makes a ton of sense to do right the first time.

Once you have a power outlet near your projector, you can power anything you want to.

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post #10420 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post
You can't run a power cord behind your walls...
I can't run anything behind my walls. It's an apartment

I'll need to run a surface raceway down to an existing outlet (about 7') to hide the cable as best as I can.

That leads me to another question. Can I run the power and HDMI cables next to each other for that run down the wall, or do I need some physical separation between the two to avoid signal interference?
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post #10421 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 07:36 PM
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Just got this for the bedroom.
I have Sony hw50es for main projector using HP screen.
1070 is setup using 1.3 gain screen. Very bright OTB.
Using Cinema, warm, gamma 2.2.
I'm impressed thus far.
Slight brightness uniformity issue but that's due to my short throw. No biggie.
Can't compare (not suppose to) the Sony in blacks. Motion maybe a little better on Sony too.
I paid $515 for the 1070 used on Amazon. This will be used primarily for hdtv and Roku. Very pleasantly surprised how good the pic.
My firmware is 108. Is this current.
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post #10422 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 09:24 PM
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I got mine earlier this year and have been very happy with it.

1.08 is the current FW.
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post #10423 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 09:30 PM
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When I ran my power (code spec wire and installed an outlet) and lines (HDMI, Composite, Trigger) for my ceiling mount 1070 I also left a string in there that follows the run. That way if I ever need to pull something else I can just tie it to the string, pull the new run, and not need to mess about with my glow rod in a dark ceiling space.
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post #10424 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredfish View Post
I can't run anything behind my walls. It's an apartment

I'll need to run a surface raceway down to an existing outlet (about 7') to hide the cable as best as I can.

That leads me to another question. Can I run the power and HDMI cables next to each other for that run down the wall, or do I need some physical separation between the two to avoid signal interference?
HDMI, as a all digital signal, tends to not have any issues with electrical interference the way analog cabling used to. I would run hard power and HDMI side by side. Look into the Redmere slim cables to cover the distance and give you reliable thin cables to keep things tidy.

If surface running cabling, you can always just get an extension cord the right color, and perhaps a bit lower weight, for your application instead of looking for a long power cable.

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post #10425 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 09:56 PM
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Has anyone seen a direct comparison with the W1080ST. I'm thinking that is what I'll get to allow for stand up (wii, Kinect) gaming in the room without always shadowing the screen.
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post #10426 of 10434 Old Yesterday, 11:58 PM
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W1070 cih 2.40:1

So ... tonight I dug out the wedge prisms I bought 7 years ago from a group in France that had a limited run made. I bought them, but then never did anything with them because I had no good way to do vertical scaling with my JVC RS1 projector.

Of course, the W1070 "Letterbox" mode of "Aspect" ratio control does the vertical stretch needed to use an anamorphic lens. I could have sworn someone said the short throw of the W1070 and its recessed lens would make use of an anamorphic lens unworkable. I am happy to report THIS IS NOT TRUE. It may not work with the "trophy" prisms because the size and shape of those is different, but these French prisms work fine with the W1070.

I simply placed the prisms at angles in front of the lens and it worked like a charm. It took me all of 2 minutes to find the correct angles. Of course, it all needs to be setup inside a black velvet lined box to contain the reflections, but that should be a piece of cake. And of course a sled to move it away when watching 16:9 content. But simpler than the moveable mount I was planning on needing to use the "zoom method" for constant image height on 2.40:1 screen.

I was concerned about the chromatic aberrations of a simple two prism A-lens, and they are pretty bad on the test pattern, but unobjectionable when watching a movie. There is about an inch of bow across the top (what would be the bottom when ceiling mounted), so I can see why people go for a curved screen to counter this.

Here is a shot of the prisms setup in front of the projector and some shots from X-Men Days of Future Past using the full 1080 pixel height of the W1070.
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post #10427 of 10434 Old Today, 01:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post
HDMI, as a all digital signal, tends to not have any issues with electrical interference the way analog cabling used to. I would run hard power and HDMI side by side. Look into the Redmere slim cables to cover the distance and give you reliable thin cables to keep things tidy.

If surface running cabling, you can always just get an extension cord the right color, and perhaps a bit lower weight, for your application instead of looking for a long power cable.
Thanks. It simplifies things if I can run both cables in one raceway. The Redmere cable is already on its way from Monoprice and I located a store locally that carries longer power cable. I try to avoid extension chords whenever possible.

My projector is on its way too, so its almost showtime.
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post #10428 of 10434 Old Today, 01:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
Here is a shot of the prisms setup in front of the projector and some shots from X-Men Days of Future Past using the full 1080 pixel height of the W1070.
Could you do a sample video of before and after?

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post #10429 of 10434 Old Today, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Chaves View Post
Could you do a sample video of before and after?
I don't have anything to shoot video with, sorry.

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post #10430 of 10434 Old Today, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredfish View Post
Thanks. It simplifies things if I can run both cables in one raceway. The Redmere cable is already on its way from Monoprice and I located a store locally that carries longer power cable. I try to avoid extension chords whenever possible.

My projector is on its way too, so its almost showtime.
When I used to rent I ran wires in those plastic raceways. I used the corner ones that helped hide it if you have a corner. The other thing to do is hide the raceway behind a plant or pictures, get creative. Also they are double sided tape but I did not use the tape as it damages the walls when removed. Instead I used coarse drywall screws after pre drilling the plastic raceway. Then when you need to remove just unscrew and fill the small holes.

I can take a picture of what I'm using now because the front screen wall where my equipment is concrete behind it. So I ran a plastic chase up the wall and installed a outlet there to feed my screen then on to the projector. Also I did this because my electric screen and projector are plugged into a battery backup.
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post #10431 of 10434 Old Today, 08:39 AM
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Looking to pickup a W1070 within a few weeks. Would there be a consensus on the recommended DLP-linked 3D glasses or Hoya filter for use with the unit? I've seen recommendations for the Hoya 72mm NDX2, but haven't been able to find that specific model.

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post #10432 of 10434 Old Today, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmueller View Post
Would there be a consensus on the recommended DLP-linked 3D glasses or Hoya filter for use with the unit? I've seen recommendations for the Hoya 72mm NDX2, but haven't been able to find that specific model.
WHAT?

DLP-Link 3D glasses are for viewing 3D movies.
The Hoya ND filter is to reduce projector brightness.

If you are asking for recommendations, then the EStar 3D glasses are recommended.
For a ND filter, any glass ND filter is fine, if you need it, but most people don't need ND filters with their projector, they just adjust the settings until it is appropriate for your room and screen.

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post #10433 of 10434 Old Today, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
When I used to rent I ran wires in those plastic raceways. I used the corner ones that helped hide it if you have a corner. The other thing to do is hide the raceway behind a plant or pictures, get creative. Also they are double sided tape but I did not use the tape as it damages the walls when removed. Instead I used coarse drywall screws after pre drilling the plastic raceway. Then when you need to remove just unscrew and fill the small holes...
That's exactly what I was thinking of doing to minimize damage to the wall.

I have a painting on that wall already, so maybe I'll just make sure to run the raceway behind it. Great idea!
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