BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 354 - AVS Forum
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post #10591 of 10613 Unread 12-14-2014, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by flint723 View Post
If you can change your input refresh rate to 50hz (Best) or 60hz, RBE will be reduced as much as it can be.
Can you elaborate on this a little? Do you mean change it on my blu-ray player? I use a PS3. I think there is an option to disable 24hz, does that mean it will switch to 50/60hz?

Or am I confused?
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post #10592 of 10613 Unread 12-14-2014, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by flint723 View Post
If you can change your input refresh rate to 50hz (Best) or 60hz, RBE will be reduced as much as it can be.
I feed my pj 60 from my Oppo for all movies. I find it reduces the rbe to almost none and makes the color wheel quieter. Also between menus and trailers I don't get the resolution change with flicker. There is not much different in image quality vs 24p.
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post #10593 of 10613 Unread 12-14-2014, 11:15 AM
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I've noticed on the new projector that when switching from say a menu to the movie, or from the movie to the top menu, it shows green noise on the screen briefly while it waits to sync. It doesn't do it on the plasma, and the only difference is using a normal HDMI cable from the splitter to the plasma, and a redmere HDMI cable from the splitter to the PJ. Does anyone else get this brief video noise?

The refresh rate judder has always irritated me, maybe it's my old Sony bdp-s550 player and/or my old Rx-v2600 receiver which are the culprits... they don't have any options to select the refresh rate. The 24p refresh on the plasma offers 48/60/96Hz, and even at 96Hz it doesn't give me satisfactorily smooth motion. I don't see anything in the PJ settings which helps this unless I've overlooked it.

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post #10594 of 10613 Unread 12-14-2014, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmueller View Post
I've noticed on the new projector that when switching from say a menu to the movie, or from the movie to the top menu, it shows green noise on the screen briefly while it waits to sync. It doesn't do it on the plasma, and the only difference is using a normal HDMI cable from the splitter to the plasma, and a redmere HDMI cable from the splitter to the PJ. Does anyone else get this brief video noise?

The refresh rate judder has always irritated me, maybe it's my old Sony bdp-s550 player and/or my old Rx-v2600 receiver which are the culprits... they don't have any options to select the refresh rate. The 24p refresh on the plasma offers 48/60/96Hz, and even at 96Hz it doesn't give me satisfactorily smooth motion. I don't see anything in the PJ settings which helps this unless I've overlooked it.
Yes I get the green too with scramble crap while syncing.

There is no setting on the PJ. I just turn off 24p in the oppo so everything is in 60. I prefer the image over the 24p, get less judder.
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post #10595 of 10613 Unread 12-14-2014, 04:04 PM
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So I've discovered something new using my NVidia GTX 970 that I was previously unable to do with my old AMD card (doesn't mean they didn't add it to catalyst recently, I have no idea).

Basically, if you're like me and love ultrawidescreen gaming, you can set your screen resolution to a custom resolution of 1920x810 (2.37 : 1) OR 2560x1080 (also 2.37 : 1), but here's the kicker : NVidia will pre-anamorphize your custom res. I.e. without a lens your windows desktop will look tall. With the 2560:1080 you get lower performance, but higher quality, due to using the full 1080 vertical resolution to render it, and even the horizontal rez isn't wasted since it acts as a pseudo DSR anti-aliasing mode, which is combined with your basic MSAA / MFAA + FXAA. I used flawless widescreen plugin in 1920x810 (vertically stretched not by the projector, but by my videocard's GPU!! woot woot. It's faster and less laggy that way), and afterwards will try it at 2560x1080 once I screw in my new anamorphic lens. Windows desktop is superior at 2560x1080 obviously, more effective screen real estate.

I was astonished when I found that I could auto-anamorphize any game I wanted using 2560x1080 just as well as 1920x810. AMD's custom resolutions had to be multiples of 8 the last time I tried it, like 1920x808 or 816. Now I can pick quality or performance for my widescreen gaming. I could never get 810 vertical before.

Another thing I tried that didn't work before is windows desktop at 720p : 120hz in 2D. I could never get that to work on my old AMD card, even with custom rez apps. Maybe they fixed that in the meanwhile, but so far I'm extremely happy with my GTX 970 and my trusty BenQ.

Next up after getting anamorphic to work is trying to hack the bulb to use a laser light instead. Then the projector will be perfectly quiet as well as brighter for longer w/o the bulb dimming. As well as instant-on! That would be pretty cool.
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post #10596 of 10613 Unread 12-14-2014, 05:18 PM
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had to send my back after my bulb shorted after about 60 hours.

they covered shipping and got it back to me within 2 weeks. great service

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post #10597 of 10613 Unread 12-14-2014, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejfriis View Post
Can you elaborate on this a little? Do you mean change it on my blu-ray player? I use a PS3. I think there is an option to disable 24hz, does that mean it will switch to 50/60hz?

Or am I confused?
Yes you would change it on whatever source your are using. I don't really know about the ps3 but it sounds like disabling 24hz would make it use 50 or 60hz.
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post #10598 of 10613 Unread 12-14-2014, 05:55 PM
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Where can i buy a official Benq w1070 lamp at...Just curious.

Silver Ticket 120" Projector Screen Grey Material /Benq-w1070 Projector/ Sony- PS4/PS3/Yamaha- RX-V675(upgrading soon)/Klipsch- RF-82 II , RC-62 II, Sub 12/Sony-SS-F5000(Surround)(upgrading really soon)/Amazon Fire TV/ Vizio-M501
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post #10599 of 10613 Unread 12-14-2014, 07:31 PM
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Hello Friends,

BHPhotoVideo.com has BenQ Full HD DLP Multimedia Projector (HT1075) on sale for $699. Shipping is free

Maybe 5% Discover cashback deal makes it sweeter deal.

Link : http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Y/pd/SHOPEB413

Regards
Prithvi
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post #10600 of 10613 Unread 12-14-2014, 08:15 PM
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I need a cheap lamp, mine just blew. POP!

What's the consensus on which is a good, but cheap one to buy?
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BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$

Quote:
Originally Posted by RLBURNSIDE View Post
I need a cheap lamp, mine just blew. POP!

What's the consensus on which is a good, but cheap one to buy?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
Where can i buy a official Benq w1070 lamp at...Just curious.

How many hours (in what lamp mode) were you at, RLBURNSIDE? (Time for that solid-state light-source mod you were talking about!)

Cheapest place for official lamps I've seen is Provantage at present ($200):
http://www.provantage.com/benq-5j-j7...1~7BEN906E.htm

Bare bulb thread here - for the gamblers among us!
Bare Bulb replacemnet for Benq W1070

BenQ W1070 Projector; Xtreamer Ultra 2 (running XBMC on OpenELEC) via Sony STR-DH540 AVR with Boston Acoustics SoundWare XS SE 5.1 Audio. MediaBrowser3 for Mobile Streaming.

Helpful post? Click the 'Like' button!

Last edited by kreeturez; 12-14-2014 at 08:24 PM.
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post #10602 of 10613 Unread 12-14-2014, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kreeturez View Post
How many hours (in what lamp mode) were you at, RLBURNSIDE? (Time for that solid-state light-source mod you were talking about!)

Cheapest place for official lamps I've seen is Provantage at present ($200):
http://www.provantage.com/benq-5j-j7...1~7BEN906E.htm

Bare bulb thread here - for the gamblers among us!
Bare Bulb replacemnet for Benq W1070

Thanks i only have 22 hours on mines but i will get a backup bulb & not play russian roulette.

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post #10603 of 10613 Unread 12-14-2014, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kreeturez View Post
How many hours (in what lamp mode) were you at, RLBURNSIDE? (Time for that solid-state light-source mod you were talking about!)

Cheapest place for official lamps I've seen is Provantage at present ($200):
http://www.provantage.com/benq-5j-j7...1~7BEN906E.htm

Bare bulb thread here - for the gamblers among us!
Bare Bulb replacemnet for Benq W1070
My lamp was nearly at 5000 hours. I'll be getting the 80 dollar one that's 240W. Hopefully that one will last me until I'm ready to buy a new projector in another year or so.

In the meanwhile, tinkerer that I am, I'll also be investigating what options there are for lasers. Tiny, frikken lasers man!! haha
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLBURNSIDE View Post
My lamp was nearly at 5000 hours. I'll be getting the 80 dollar one that's 240W. Hopefully that one will last me until I'm ready to buy a new projector in another year or so.



In the meanwhile, tinkerer that I am, I'll also be investigating what options there are for lasers. Tiny, frikken lasers man!! haha

5000 hours in the brightest lamp mode (SmartEco).

Impressive.

With that kind of mileage from an original, I'd actually say that doing a bare bulb isn't worth the risk unless we're 100% sure it's an original: if I paid half-price (which I actually did in that thread) and got only half the life, that would still only be so-so economy.

Lol, ""lasers""!

BenQ W1070 Projector; Xtreamer Ultra 2 (running XBMC on OpenELEC) via Sony STR-DH540 AVR with Boston Acoustics SoundWare XS SE 5.1 Audio. MediaBrowser3 for Mobile Streaming.

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I used my Digital Video Essentials Blu-ray last night. I couldn't see any perceivable change in the test image for Sharpness through the entire adjustment range, so I left it at 3. Numbers turned out real close to Dreamer's with the exception with my blue filter it seemed to want blue gain in the low-to-mid 60's, I couldn't noticeably improve red or green on this method. I didn't know what test patterns to use to try to adjust the color temp settings or which pattern to use; with Dreamer's color temp settings the gamma test image liked 2.2 best.

I'm trying to get it ISF calibrated mid-January. The ISF modes only have Day and Night options, can the 3D mode be ISF calibrated?

Yamaha RX-V2600, Fisher MT-9090, Mitsubishi HS-U80, Pioneer DVL-90, Sony BDP-S550, Nakamichi Dragon, Sony CDP-X555ES, Carver AV-634, Carver TFM-42, Panasonic TC-P54V10, BenQ W1070, Polk SDA-1C mains, Polk CS400i center, Polk Fxi A4 surrounds, Polk RT1A1 surround back, Velodyne F1200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kreeturez View Post
5000 hours in the brightest lamp mode (SmartEco).

Impressive.

With that kind of mileage from an original, I'd actually say that doing a bare bulb isn't worth the risk unless we're 100% sure it's an original: if I paid half-price (which I actually did in that thread) and got only half the life, that would still only be so-so economy.

Lol, ""lasers""!
I'm not sure if SmartEco would count as the brightest lamp mode, it's variable which may or may not be more stressful on the bulb. On the one hand, its brightness is modulated by the signal fed into the projector, on the other hand, it's like a kid playing with the dimmer switch constantly. Lots of bulbs pop quicker when you do that.

I don't think it's worth buying a new bulb at 200 bucks or 250 each, for a projector worth 750$ new. I think there should be a replacement projector in my future before I need another bulb, although it was getting so dim before it blew that I'm glad I'll be back to full brightness so I can watch some nice 3D movies and play skyrim in 3d + ultra wide aspect ratio with my new anamorphic lens
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post #10607 of 10613 Unread Yesterday, 11:00 AM
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Please, keep me posted. I'm having a hard time sending it in and being without it around the holidays, add that to not knowing the cost of repair.
Thanks,
Incus
Good news and bad news.

Good news is the projector I was sent is a nice refurb and works well. The firmware is upgraded and it also has the newer remote which is backlit and has more buttons/options. Picture quality seems as good as my previous one.

Bad news is that the HDMI handshake issue remains. My 35' redmere cable works fine with connected directly with a source, but if I bring in my switch or splitter to handle multiple sources, the connection doesn't work. This is the setup that worked beautifully for 18 months, and suddenly doesn't work anymore. And I've changed out the switch, used a powered version, changed out the other HDMI cables... basically troubleshot everything in the chain.

It all started when a Comcast tech came to my house to work on a cable box and then, without asking, bundled all the cables together in my basement. This bound up the HDMI with power cables. I unbundled everything but it hasn't worked right since then, even when I've replaced the cables. Annoying.

I've got two solutions left:
1) Try an actual HDMI receiver to replace my old HK AVR435. This removes the need for the passive HDMI switch. I'll be getting the Emotiva Fusion 8100 for Christmas and will give this a try.
2) Stop trying to use an HDMI switch and just get one more 35' redmere cable since the w1070 has two HDMI inputs. I'll be getting the 35' cable for Christmas as well, so one way or another this will be working in a few weeks.

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post #10608 of 10613 Unread Yesterday, 12:27 PM
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Monoprice

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLefty View Post
Good news and bad news.

Good news is the projector I was sent is a nice refurb and works well. The firmware is upgraded and it also has the newer remote which is backlit and has more buttons/options. Picture quality seems as good as my previous one.

Bad news is that the HDMI handshake issue remains. My 35' redmere cable works fine with connected directly with a source, but if I bring in my switch or splitter to handle multiple sources, the connection doesn't work. This is the setup that worked beautifully for 18 months, and suddenly doesn't work anymore. And I've changed out the switch, used a powered version, changed out the other HDMI cables... basically troubleshot everything in the chain.

It all started when a Comcast tech came to my house to work on a cable box and then, without asking, bundled all the cables together in my basement. This bound up the HDMI with power cables. I unbundled everything but it hasn't worked right since then, even when I've replaced the cables. Annoying.

I've got two solutions left:
1) Try an actual HDMI receiver to replace my old HK AVR435. This removes the need for the passive HDMI switch. I'll be getting the Emotiva Fusion 8100 for Christmas and will give this a try.
2) Stop trying to use an HDMI switch and just get one more 35' redmere cable since the w1070 has two HDMI inputs. I'll be getting the 35' cable for Christmas as well, so one way or another this will be working in a few weeks.
For what it is worth, I have tried some cheaper HDMI switches that didn't work...I have this one now:

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

And it works great. The only issue I have seen is that when I use the volume button on the projector remote I need to aim it at the projector, because if I aim it at the front wall (towards the switch) it seems to change to some unknown input and has no video. If I use the HDMI switch remote to switch back to my desired input all is well...must just be some signal interference or something with just the signal sent when hitting that one button.
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Some one here recommended the Cinegrey 5D Elite screen, but the 120" version costs as much as the projector itself. I was wondering if someone can recommend a more affordable alternative. I've heard that grey material is a better choice for viewing when exposure to daylight is present.

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post #10610 of 10613 Unread Yesterday, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmueller View Post
I used my Digital Video Essentials Blu-ray last night. I couldn't see any perceivable change in the test image for Sharpness through the entire adjustment range, so I left it at 3. Numbers turned out real close to Dreamer's with the exception with my blue filter it seemed to want blue gain in the low-to-mid 60's, I couldn't noticeably improve red or green on this method. I didn't know what test patterns to use to try to adjust the color temp settings or which pattern to use; with Dreamer's color temp settings the gamma test image liked 2.2 best.

I'm trying to get it ISF calibrated mid-January. The ISF modes only have Day and Night options, can the 3D mode be ISF calibrated?
Did it look significantly closer to the plasma on that Baraka scene ? How much are you expecting to pay for an ISF calibration ? I'll be interested to hear if you feel the improvement is worth it.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLBURNSIDE View Post
I'm not sure if SmartEco would count as the brightest lamp mode, it's variable which may or may not be more stressful on the bulb. On the one hand, its brightness is modulated by the signal fed into the projector, on the other hand, it's like a kid playing with the dimmer switch constantly. Lots of bulbs pop quicker when you do that.

I don't think it's worth buying a new bulb at 200 bucks or 250 each, for a projector worth 750$ new. I think there should be a replacement projector in my future before I need another bulb, although it was getting so dim before it blew that I'm glad I'll be back to full brightness so I can watch some nice 3D movies and play skyrim in 3d + ultra wide aspect ratio with my new anamorphic lens
I posted some feedback with pictures on page 2 of the lamp replacement thread. After 6 months, the bulb is still going strong and I've had no issues. It's an OSRAM bulb. Works great.

I am curious as to how the sellers are able to obtain them and sell so cheap. ... Factory workers getting an employee discount? ... Or maybe OSRAM has a store open to the public at the factory (I've seen this here in Canada) and sells overproduction.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
Did it look significantly closer to the plasma on that Baraka scene ? How much are you expecting to pay for an ISF calibration ? I'll be interested to hear if you feel the improvement is worth it.
I haven't compared them yet, but when I reset the settings and used yours (before using DVE) the colors definitely improved. The guy who calibrated my plasma back in 2010 charges $400 to calibrate a projector, amd I'm not excited about that cost to be honest.

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Exciting news for me!
My screen is coming a day early so I will get BOTH the screen and the W1070 today and I already got the Estar glasses so it will be one fun day!
I guess first thing I would do is check the firmware version.

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