BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 375 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11221 of 11239 Old 05-21-2015, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flint723 View Post
The ps3 is what makes the projector go into frame packing 3d mode (which is what blu-rays do). So I would start looking for a setting in the ps3. The w1070 detects this mode automatically even though there is no setting for it.
Thanks, Flint, I will play around with the PS3 settings next time I visit.
I will also take along my spare (Panasonic) 3D Blu ray player to test this theory.

regards,
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post #11222 of 11239 Old 05-21-2015, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post
.........Was visiting a friend who owns the W-1070 and noticed he is having a problem with Blu-ray 3D playback, via a PS3. He confirmed that he used to be able to watch 3D Blu-rays, but for some reason 3D is now turned off and cannot be reactivated in the 3D menu. The only access he has in the 3D menu is SBS and Over/Under (everything else is greyed out). There is no option to select "auto" so that it automatically detects 3D movies. Is there something he can do to rectify this oddity? I checked his firmware (1.04) but since he was previously able to watch 3D with that version, I can't see how that could be the problem.

Thanks,
atabea
Try resetting the PS3 per these instructions https://us.en.kb.sony.com/app/answer...ion-3-console.
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post #11223 of 11239 Old 05-21-2015, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonyad View Post
Try resetting the PS3 per these instructions https://us.en.kb.sony.com/app/answer...ion-3-console.

Thanks, sonyad, will definitely give it a go.

Atabea
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post #11224 of 11239 Old 05-22-2015, 01:14 PM
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Just wanted to say "thanks" guys, resetting the PS3 worked!!!!!

regards,
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post #11225 of 11239 Old 05-22-2015, 02:35 PM
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Does anyone know if there's an index post for this thread anywhere? I'd like to find discussions or some widely-accepted picture adjustment settings. Before people snap at me:

1) I understand that I should probably read the entire thread, and I'll try to work my way through it, but there are currently 375 pages.
2) I know that viewing conditions affect projector settings a lot, and that in the long run I should do my best to calibrate for my particular conditions. I plan to do that (with Disney WOW or other), but I thought I'd see if there's a typical jumping-off point where I could improve things in the near-term before I get to calibrating on a more fine-grained level.

Thanks!
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post #11226 of 11239 Old 05-22-2015, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rashman View Post
Does anyone know if there's an index post for this thread anywhere? I'd like to find discussions or some widely-accepted picture adjustment settings. Before people snap at me:

1) I understand that I should probably read the entire thread, and I'll try to work my way through it, but there are currently 375 pages.
2) I know that viewing conditions affect projector settings a lot, and that in the long run I should do my best to calibrate for my particular conditions. I plan to do that (with Disney WOW or other), but I thought I'd see if there's a typical jumping-off point where I could improve things in the near-term before I get to calibrating on a more fine-grained level.

Thanks!
post calibration settings from avforums.com:


Preset: User 1
Brightness: 51
Contrast: 53
Colour: 50
Tint: 50
Sharpness: 8
Colour Temp: Normal
Lamp Power: Economic
Advanced
Clarity Level: 0
Gamma: 2.2
BrilliantColor: Off
Colour Temp Fine Tuning: Red Gain 96, Green Gain 88, Blue Gain 95, Red Offset 256, Green Offset 256, Blue Offset 256
Colour Management: Red - Hue 50/Gain 52/Saturation 49, Green - H 64/G 48/S 50, Blue - H 52/G 47/S 50, Cyan - H 50/G 47/S 50, Magenta - H 70/G 51/S 50, Yellow - H 64/G 50/S 47
Aspect Ratio: Real

https://www.avforums.com/threads/ben...tings.1761516/
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post #11227 of 11239 Old 05-22-2015, 09:37 PM
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Hey guys, I'm selling my Runco Whitney vertical compression anamorphic lens for $1000:

For Sale, Runco Whitney VC anamorphic lens

I find myself not using it much lately since I mostly do 16:9 gaming and watch more TV shows than movies like I used to.
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post #11228 of 11239 Old 05-22-2015, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rashman View Post
Does anyone know if there's an index post for this thread anywhere? I'd like to find discussions or some widely-accepted picture adjustment settings. Before people snap at me:

1) I understand that I should probably read the entire thread, and I'll try to work my way through it, but there are currently 375 pages.
Thanks!
At 11225 posts for an $800 projector, you are excused for not wanting to read everything...although the shear repetition and the vehement passion some express can be entertaining.
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post #11229 of 11239 Old 05-22-2015, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rashman View Post
Does anyone know if there's an index post for this thread anywhere? I'd like to find discussions or some widely-accepted picture adjustment settings. Before people snap at me:

1) I understand that I should probably read the entire thread, and I'll try to work my way through it, but there are currently 375 pages.
2) I know that viewing conditions affect projector settings a lot, and that in the long run I should do my best to calibrate for my particular conditions. I plan to do that (with Disney WOW or other), but I thought I'd see if there's a typical jumping-off point where I could improve things in the near-term before I get to calibrating on a more fine-grained level.

Thanks!
These are my settings.

Apartment setup guidance
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post #11230 of 11239 Old 05-22-2015, 11:15 PM
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What are some projector carrying cases worth buying? Any preferences?

Are these two cases good for traveling?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f_rd_i=desktop

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f_rd_i=desktop
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post #11231 of 11239 Old 05-23-2015, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbn008 View Post
post calibration settings from avforums.com:
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
These are my settings.

Apartment setup guidance


Thank you both!
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post #11232 of 11239 Old 05-26-2015, 02:59 PM
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I changed my bulb yesterday. I had 3700 hours in two years and I could have waited, but I wanted to do it before it popped. I bought it on Amazon for $65 and it came from China on the slow boat. It was authentic, followed the directions, and got it in with no problems. Picture is uniform and looks good. I reset the hours, reset the projector and re-input my settings. If you haven't done this yet...

* Remove the one screw from the side of the projector
* Remove the lid on top of the projector by prying up
* Remove the clear plastic plate over the bulb
* Remove the one screw closest to the lens
* Pull up using the wire handle
* Unscrew the small screws on the side of the lens that holds the silver plate
* Once plate is removed from bulb and housing, remove the four screws holding the bulb in
* Remove the electrical clips
* Remove old bulb
* Install new bulb and put in the four screws to hold the new bulb
* Put the screws back in on the side that holds the plate
* Connect the electrical connections by sliding wire clips over stems
* Slide bulb housing back into projector
* Put the clear plastic plate back on
* Snap on the lid back on
* Screw in the side screw
* Reset your settings
* Reset your bulb hours
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post #11233 of 11239 Old 05-26-2015, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sojodave View Post
I changed my bulb yesterday. I had 3700 hours in two years and I could have waited, but I wanted to do it before it popped. I bought it on Amazon for $65 and it came from China on the slow boat. It was authentic, followed the directions, and got it in with no problems. Picture is uniform and looks good. I reset the hours, reset the projector and re-input my settings. If you haven't done this yet...

* Remove the one screw from the side of the projector
* Remove the lid on top of the projector by prying up
* Remove the clear plastic plate over the bulb
* Remove the one screw closest to the lens
* Pull up using the wire handle
* Unscrew the small screws on the side of the lens that holds the silver plate
* Once plate is removed from bulb and housing, remove the four screws holding the bulb in
* Remove the electrical clips
* Remove old bulb
* Install new bulb and put in the four screws to hold the new bulb
* Put the screws back in on the side that holds the plate
* Connect the electrical connections by sliding wire clips over stems
* Slide bulb housing back into projector
* Put the clear plastic plate back on
* Snap on the lid back on
* Screw in the side screw
* Reset your settings
* Reset your bulb hours
Could you post or message me a link to where you found a bulb for that cheap?
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post #11234 of 11239 Old 05-27-2015, 07:12 AM
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This is where I found the bulb. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #11235 of 11239 Old Yesterday, 02:43 PM
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Hi!

I am using my PC to play video through MPC-HC with MadVR on my Benq W1070 which is great!

I have question regarding correct Benq settings with nvidia cards (I have gtx 970).
Should I select ycbcr444 or rgb full range in my nvidia control panel???

I am asking because in Madvr suggest that You should use full RGB via PC and I found review on hometheaterhifi dot com site that ycbcr should be used because quote:

"I'd also recommend sending all your content in the YCbCr 4:4:4 colorspace. Using 4:2:2, the BenQ used lower quality filtering on chroma detail, and the timing was misaligned by half a pixel. Using RGB produced similar results, but 4:4:4 was handled properly and should be used if possible."

And now I am quite confused.

I would be really grateful for Your help!
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post #11236 of 11239 Old Yesterday, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irokez85 View Post
Hi!

I am using my PC to play video through MPC-HC with MadVR on my Benq W1070 which is great!

I have question regarding correct Benq settings with nvidia cards (I have gtx 970).
Should I select ycbcr444 or rgb full range in my nvidia control panel???

I am asking because in Madvr suggest that You should use full RGB via PC and I found review on hometheaterhifi dot com site that ycbcr should be used because quote:

"I'd also recommend sending all your content in the YCbCr 4:4:4 colorspace. Using 4:2:2, the BenQ used lower quality filtering on chroma detail, and the timing was misaligned by half a pixel. Using RGB produced similar results, but 4:4:4 was handled properly and should be used if possible."

And now I am quite confused.

I would be really grateful for Your help!
Well now you confused me too!
I was pretty sure the correct option was RGB then Nvidia Control panel set to 0-255 Full , the projector set to pc levels and madvr also set to 0-255. But I will have to test that now

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post #11237 of 11239 Old Today, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Luis Gabriel Gerena View Post
Well now you confused me too!
I was pretty sure the correct option was RGB then Nvidia Control panel set to 0-255 Full , the projector set to pc levels and madvr also set to 0-255. But I will have to test that now
Well the more I read the more confused I am...

Before I had settings like this:

NVIDIA/Digital Format: RGB/ Dynamic Settings: Full (0-255)
MPC-HC/RGB Output leves/PC (0-255) or untouched as input
MadVR/RGB Output leves/ 0-255
Benq HDMI seetings: PC

Now I am wondering about:
NVIDIA/Digital Format: YCbCr 444/ Dynamic Settings: Limited (there is no full option in drivers)
MPC-HC/RGB Output leves/TV (LIMITED)
MadVR/RGB Output leves/ 0-255 if limited are selected it's looks washed out
Benq HDMI seetings: Video
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post #11238 of 11239 Unread Today, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irokez85 View Post
Well the more I read the more confused I am...

Before I had settings like this:

NVIDIA/Digital Format: RGB/ Dynamic Settings: Full (0-255)
MPC-HC/RGB Output leves/PC (0-255) or untouched as input
MadVR/RGB Output leves/ 0-255
Benq HDMI seetings: PC

Now I am wondering about:
NVIDIA/Digital Format: YCbCr 444/ Dynamic Settings: Limited (there is no full option in drivers)
MPC-HC/RGB Output leves/TV (LIMITED)
MadVR/RGB Output leves/ 0-255 if limited are selected it's looks washed out
Benq HDMI seetings: Video
I just follow what madshi recommends to be safe:


Quote:
There are 3 possible HTPC level configurations, when using madVR:

(1) Display wants 0-255. GPU and madVR are consequently also both set to 0-255.

This is the most recommended setup because it doesn't (shouldn't) have any banding problems, and still has all video, desktop and games with correct black/white levels. In this case test patterns need to have black at 0,0,0, obviously.

(2) Display wants 16-235. GPU is set to 16-235. madVR has to be set to 0-255.

This is not recommended, because the GPU stretches the madVR output, probably in 8bit without dithering, so banding could be introduced. However, this is not a big problem for ArgyllCMS. Argyll still needs to create test patterns with black at 0,0,0. The GPU will then stretch the test patterns from 0-255 to 16-235, so the display will get 16,16,16, although Argyll rendered 0,0,0. So the levels are correct.

(3) Display wants 16-235. GPU is set to 0-255. madVR is set to 16-235.

This is the recommended setup for best image quality if your display can't do 0-255. This setup results in banding-free madVR image quality. However, levels for desktop and games will be incorrect, because desktop and games will render black at 0,0,0, while the display expects black at 16,16,16. This is a problem for ArgyllCMS, because Argyll will create test patterns with black at 0,0,0, and the display will also receive these at 0,0,0. So basically Argyll test patterns will have wrong levels, which will screw up the whole calibration.

It is my understanding that Graeme implemented the -E switch specifically for (3), because without the -E switch Argyll test patterns would send wrong levels to the display. Basically the -E switch tells Argyll to render test patterns with black at 16,16,16 and white at 235,235,235, which Argyll never had to do before. When using VMR/EVR, you usually switch your GPU to 0-255 or 16-235. In both cases Argyll can render test patterns with black at 0,0,0, and they will still be sent to the display with the correct levels. However, due to my recommendation to use (3) if your display doesn't support 0-255, Argyll suddenly needs to render test patterns differently. Hence Graeme implemented the -E switch.

So my understanding is that -E should be used only for (3) and in no other situation. If you use the -E switch for (1), Argyll will create test patterns with black at 16,16,16 which would be incorrect!

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