BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 379 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11341 of 12009 Old 07-13-2015, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Deadlyg33k View Post
Unfortunately Amazon.ca as well as the US site has them listed as "Currently Unavailable." Are the Sainsonics really that bad? This will be my first foray into 3D at home and I don't want to spend 1/3 the cost of the W1070 itself on something that will be utilized here and there. I want to game in 3D as well if that impacts the glasses I should be getting.
Supposedly, these G15 glasses (the DLP-LINK, not the BT version) work with the W1070 and are the least expensive ($10) and lightest weight.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/G15-DLP-3D-S...item58b7792b0d

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post #11342 of 12009 Old 07-13-2015, 09:58 PM
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I can vouch for the two pair of 144Hz universal DLPlink g15's I have working totally fine with the w1070 while I had it.
I can't comment too much on their weight, but it didn't take me long to get used to them despite being someone who doesn't normally wear glasses.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
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post #11343 of 12009 Old 07-14-2015, 04:56 AM
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I ordered 4 of the Sainsonic's for under a hundo shipped. I was reading the thread and throughtout this forum and others and honestly there's so many audio/videophiles that when it comes down to things I figured I'd try the affordable options first. To be honest I almost didn't buy the W1070 (over the Epson 2030) because of the fear of RBE, but I see none of that and this projector is leaps and bounds better than my previous Epson 705HD. I read about the red tint, ghosting and the like, but I have a feeling I'll slap them on and see nothing wrong with them at all. Most of you guys on here have trained yourselves to pick up subtle nuances a laymen like myself won't. Once you see it you can't unsee it as is the saying around here. lol

But at the end of the day I'm a PC guy and a gamer so I understand, if I can't achieve a constant 60 fps I won't play the game, most don't care, but I have trained myself to get use to that, same as minimum resolutions of 1920x1080 etc. I'm rambling now, lol, but I want others to read this and realize that unless you fall into that 5% of pro's on here, stop worrying and go with whatever option fits your budget and enjoy your toys. Once the cost of things drops we'll all be upgrading anyway.
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post #11344 of 12009 Old 07-14-2015, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadlyg33k View Post
I ordered 4 of the Sainsonic's for under a hundo shipped. I was reading the thread and throughtout this forum and others and honestly there's so many audio/videophiles that when it comes down to things I figured I'd try the affordable options first. To be honest I almost didn't buy the W1070 (over the Epson 2030) because of the fear of RBE, but I see none of that and this projector is leaps and bounds better than my previous Epson 705HD. I read about the red tint, ghosting and the like, but I have a feeling I'll slap them on and see nothing wrong with them at all. Most of you guys on here have trained yourselves to pick up subtle nuances a laymen like myself won't. Once you see it you can't unsee it as is the saying around here. lol

But at the end of the day I'm a PC guy and a gamer so I understand, if I can't achieve a constant 60 fps I won't play the game, most don't care, but I have trained myself to get use to that, same as minimum resolutions of 1920x1080 etc. I'm rambling now, lol, but I want others to read this and realize that unless you fall into that 5% of pro's on here, stop worrying and go with whatever option fits your budget and enjoy your toys. Once the cost of things drops we'll all be upgrading anyway.

Yep, put them on and enjoy the movie.

Projector & Screen: Epson 5040ub Elite Screens 100" Electric Video: Oppo 103d Audio: Denon 4520ci Speakers: Infinity RS5 (LW L C R RW) Infinity RS1 (LH RH) Infinity Beta ES250 (SL SR) Subwoofers: 2 SI18d4 Martycubes with iNuke3000dsp and 2 Infinity BU120 Shakers: 4 ADX shakers with Dayton SA230 amp

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post #11345 of 12009 Old 07-14-2015, 07:55 AM
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Sainsonic where noticeably worse than 3dtv corp blue glasses(optoma zd302)
It is worth it to get quality glasses for w1070 great 3d.
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post #11346 of 12009 Old 07-14-2015, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadlyg33k View Post
I read about the red tint
The dark red tint is real and very noticeable. I also bought some G15's and the dark red tint is now a solid black. A huge difference.
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post #11347 of 12009 Old 07-14-2015, 08:25 AM
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Little off topic and I'm sure it may have been answered (even though I went through all the pages, yes...ALL) but I may have missed it. I'm going to be upgrading the firmware tonight from 1.05 to 1.08 to gain access to the 3D support I'll need for easier setup with my HTPC. My question is this; Are these firmware updates cumulative? Meaning does update 1.08 include everything in update 1.06 and 1.07 respectively or do I need to update in order? Thanks!

EDIT: Never mind I got my answer and yes I did miss it. lol The updates are indeed cumulative if anyone else is curious. Thanks again all!

Last edited by Deadlyg33k; 07-14-2015 at 08:36 AM.
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post #11348 of 12009 Old 07-14-2015, 11:20 AM
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E-Star

Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
Supposedly, these G15 glasses (the DLP-LINK, not the BT version) work with the W1070 and are the least expensive ($10) and lightest weight.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/G15-DLP-3D-S...item58b7792b0d
The E star shows as in stock when I click on the Amazon link a couple posts ago, but I can say that I got generic G15 glasses from China just like these and they worked great except for not having rechargeable batteries. I took the battery out after each use so there was no unintended drain. Alas, my daughter threw them on the floor right before my wife stepped on them and broke one of the lenses...but I intend to buy more as soon as my wife will let me, lol (she hates watching stuff in 3D because she says it gives her a headache, so she says it would be a waste to buy them for myself because I could only use them when she wasn't home, lol).
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post #11349 of 12009 Old 07-14-2015, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SightSeeker1 View Post
Okay guys, I got my i1D3 Colorimeter. I have the newest projector with the backlit remote. Definitely different than the projector central settings.

Here is cinema mode no calibration
http://imgur.com/ztXbvqo


Here is after calibration. All delta's except for the 100% are below 1 which is really tight.
http://imgur.com/IBiUYdA


Gamma
http://imgur.com/iQdrJ6I


I first didn't realize I had brilliant color on and the top and bottom of chart looked a lot worse. I turned it off and started over and found better results. It was pushing off the grayscale at the ends for sure. If you use my settings make sure to leave it off. Color looked pretty good. I'm not going to post the chart but delta is under 3 for all colors. Red was at like 7 before some tuning and green was at 3.2 or so but they are both under after some mild tweaking.

I am very happy with the settings. If you make the changes make sure to put on a movie or something and pause a human face if you can. Make the color changes and you will see the picture change for sure. It is noticeable.

If enough people want it I will do it again with different lamp settings.

****These settings will not work with any other lamp setting. ***

Here are the settings

Mode - Cinema
Brightness - 50
Contrast - 50
Sharpness - Default (Didn't measure so turn to personal preference)
Lamp Power ECO
Advanced Menu
Color Temp
RGain - 101
GGail - 100
BGain - 105
ROff - 251
GOff - 249
BOff - 254
Color mgmt
Red
46
51
48
Green
50
49
47
Blue (No Changes)
Gamma - 2.4

I tried these calibration settings. I changed the gamma to 2.2. These settings are very good. Skin tones are very realistic. Thanks.
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post #11350 of 12009 Old 07-16-2015, 05:24 AM
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So I ordered the glasses and the next day they arrived! So I tried them out with a Jurassic Park rip (Half-SBS) rip and it was amazing! I saw none of the things people were warning me about and either did three other people. But I did run into an issue that I'm wondering if you guys can help me out with?

I managed to do the firmware update pretty easily and now she sits pretty with 1.08. Now in the changelog it states that it now should support 1080p SBS, however the rip I have is 1080p SBS but when I try to run it the option is greyed out. When I switch to lets say 1080i then it works with no issues. I tried PowerDVD, BS Player, Stereoscopic and MPC and it's the same thing. Even trying to run games I have to drop them down to 720p in order to play SBS at 60 fps, or be stuck with 1080p 30fps locked which is a non-started for me. lol

Am I missing something here? I thought the update was suppose to solve that issue? I mean the handshaking now is awesomely fast but this is annoying. I can live with having to switch to 1080i if need be but this update was suppose to eliminate the need for that all together. I have read somewhere that I need to output my PC to RGB as well as the projector. How do you do that? I know for the PC but never saw that option in the BenQ menu. (Actually I found the answer for this Go into "system setup advanced" > "HDMI Settings" > change "HDMI Format" to PC signal) Let me know your thoughts guys and gals because I'm stumped. Thanks!

Oh and also, I need to hook up 2 HDMI cables to my single OUTPUT on my receiver. Is there a product you guys recommend for this? Something that won't lose quality of course.

Last edited by Deadlyg33k; 07-16-2015 at 07:40 AM.
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post #11351 of 12009 Old 07-16-2015, 07:44 AM
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Monoprice has several: http://www.monoprice.com/Search/Inde...mi+splitter+3d
Make sure it's 3D compatible.
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post #11352 of 12009 Old 07-17-2015, 04:32 PM
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I love the PJ, but really annoyed with how long it takes the signal to get thru. Not sure what the term for it is, HDMI handshake maybe. But every time I play something, even though it's connected the screen goes black, blue, sometimes purple, black, the video is already playing and it's about 5 seconds into the content before it's finally displayed. And then when it's done playing, same thing. Not sure if it's just for resolution changes. I know it does it on BD player as well as from MacMini. Obviously, it's really hard on the eyes with the flashing back and forth.

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post #11353 of 12009 Old 07-17-2015, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tomtastic View Post
I love the PJ, but really annoyed with how long it takes the signal to get thru. Not sure what the term for it is, HDMI handshake maybe. But every time I play something, even though it's connected the screen goes black, blue, sometimes purple, black, the video is already playing and it's about 5 seconds into the content before it's finally displayed. And then when it's done playing, same thing. Not sure if it's just for resolution changes. I know it does it on BD player as well as from MacMini. Obviously, it's really hard on the eyes with the flashing back and forth.
It is changing resolution and refresh rate. I changed my Oppo 103d bluray player to output 1080p 60 and no more flashing.

Projector & Screen: Epson 5040ub Elite Screens 100" Electric Video: Oppo 103d Audio: Denon 4520ci Speakers: Infinity RS5 (LW L C R RW) Infinity RS1 (LH RH) Infinity Beta ES250 (SL SR) Subwoofers: 2 SI18d4 Martycubes with iNuke3000dsp and 2 Infinity BU120 Shakers: 4 ADX shakers with Dayton SA230 amp

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post #11354 of 12009 Old 07-18-2015, 06:11 PM
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That was it, much faster now no more annoying flashing. Thanks.

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post #11355 of 12009 Old 07-18-2015, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by tomtastic View Post
That was it, much faster now no more annoying flashing. Thanks.
Thats good, the only thing is no 24p.

Projector & Screen: Epson 5040ub Elite Screens 100" Electric Video: Oppo 103d Audio: Denon 4520ci Speakers: Infinity RS5 (LW L C R RW) Infinity RS1 (LH RH) Infinity Beta ES250 (SL SR) Subwoofers: 2 SI18d4 Martycubes with iNuke3000dsp and 2 Infinity BU120 Shakers: 4 ADX shakers with Dayton SA230 amp

My Builds--Media console build----Martycube build----ADX Bass Shaker Install
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post #11356 of 12009 Old 07-19-2015, 09:35 AM
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Thats good, the only thing is no 24p.

I also experience delay when 24p is ON on my xTreamer...


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post #11357 of 12009 Old 07-19-2015, 08:38 PM
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Does anyone notice the extra light that is projected on the ceiling when it is hung upside down?

I can block it with my hand and not intrude on the projected image.

It is shaped like an arch, about 4 feet from the projector going almost all the way to the screen.

18 ft throw with an image of 13 feet wide, sitting about 17 ft back.

13 ft high ceiling 3 foot drop

Also I had to use keystone of -1 just to get a square image on the wall.

Should it not be square when the projector is perpendicular to the surface it is projecting on?

It sure is bright even on the smarteco mode on a native tan wall, lol.
http://www.myperfectcolor.com/en/col...204-Native-Tan

My sharp dt510 did not do this hung in the same fashion.

Would the lg pf1500 come close to this brightness at these dimensions at max power.

Thanks
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post #11358 of 12009 Old 07-19-2015, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiribomb View Post
Does anyone notice the extra light that is projected on the ceiling when it is hung upside down?

I can block it with my hand and not intrude on the projected image.

It is shaped like an arch, about 4 feet from the projector going almost all the way to the screen.

18 ft throw with an image of 13 feet wide, sitting about 17 ft back.

13 ft high ceiling 3 foot drop

Also I had to use keystone of -1 just to get a square image on the wall.

Should it not be square when the projector is perpendicular to the surface it is projecting on?

It sure is bright even on the smarteco mode on a native tan wall, lol.
http://www.myperfectcolor.com/en/col...204-Native-Tan

My sharp dt510 did not do this hung in the same fashion.

Would the lg pf1500 come close to this brightness at these dimensions at max power.

Thanks
That is light spill out the front vents on the projector. If it was hung closer to the ceiling it would be much smaller than "4 feet", but it is always there. With a dark painted or fabric ceiling it is not distracting, but it is definitely there.

The LG would not come close to the same brightness and would never be satisfying on that large an image.

At that image size, the W1070 must be positioned with the center of the lens a minimum of 4.5" above the top of the image and a max of 9" above it. The vertical lens shift at default will get the lens as low as the 4.5" figure and adjusted all the way out can hit the 9" figure. If the projector was level and square to the screen, no keystone correction would be needed.

*********************
Kirk Ellis
BenQ W1070 VuTec 122" Screen
Harmon Kardon AVR 247 Parasound L&R Amp
Psycoustic Mark III L&R Towers, Boston Center
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post #11359 of 12009 Old 07-20-2015, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
That is light spill out the front vents on the projector. If it was hung closer to the ceiling it would be much smaller than "4 feet", but it is always there. With a dark painted or fabric ceiling it is not distracting, but it is definitely there.

The LG would not come close to the same brightness and would never be satisfying on that large an image.

At that image size, the W1070 must be positioned with the center of the lens a minimum of 4.5" above the top of the image and a max of 9" above it. The vertical lens shift at default will get the lens as low as the 4.5" figure and adjusted all the way out can hit the 9" figure. If the projector was level and square to the screen, no keystone correction would be needed.
Its not the light vents though, if I put my hand on the bottom of the projector, top upside down, as the plane, and slowly move it out as it approaches a few inches out, the light on the ceiling is effectively blocked.

I guess I could make a blinder and attach it to the top of the projector to simulate what my hand does.

The 1070 lens is recessed in the housing, adjustments are done internal of the housing, my sharp's lens protruded from the housing, adjustments were done on the ring outside of the housing.

Thanks for the vertical shift info, I never had that adjustment before, lol.

The shift was at max in the down so I just went the other way with it.

I guess I missed it when I looked over the manual.

I moved the projector closer to the ceiling, center of the lens is 31.5 inches from the ceiling, top of the image is 36 inches from the top and I was able to return keystone to 0.

I reduced the image size to 13 foot width and the bottom of the image is about 35 inches off the floor.

Looks great, thank you.

Except its still a little bright, my sharp had an iris control that would allow to switch between modes, bright and high contrast.

thanks

Last edited by chiribomb; 07-20-2015 at 10:14 PM.
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post #11360 of 12009 Old 07-20-2015, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiribomb View Post
Its not the light vents though, if I put my hand on the bottom of the projector, top upside down, as the plane, and slowly move it out as it approaches a few inches out, the light on the ceiling is effectively blocked.

I guess I could make a blinder and attach it to the top of the projector to simulate what my hand does.

The 1070 lens is recessed in the housing, adjustments are done internal of the housing, my sharp's lens protruded from the housing, adjustments were done on the ring outside of the housing.

Thanks for the vertical shift info, I never had that adjustment before, lol.

The shift was at max in the down so I just went the other way with it.

I guess I missed it when I looked over the manual.

I moved the projector closer to the ceiling, center of the lens is 31.5 inches from the ceiling, top of the image is 36 inches from the top and I was able to return keystone to 0.

I reduced the image size to 13 foot width and the bottom of the image is about 35 inches off the floor.

Looks great, thank you.

Except its still a little bright, my sharp had an iris control that would allow to switch between modes, bright and high contrast.

thanks
The light spill I was talking about is nowhere near the lens. It is from the air vents on the front and bottom of the housing. My W1070 does exactly what you describe. Blocking it close to the projector might interfere with the airflow.

In the menu, there are several lamp modes -- Normal, ECO, and Smart-Eco. Smart-ECO will adjust the lamp power based on the brightness of the content while the other two are constant power at 100% and 70%, respectively. So if you want the best contrast for low-light movies and TV, it will happen in Smart-ECO mode.

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post #11361 of 12009 Old 07-21-2015, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiribomb View Post
I reduced the image size to 13 foot width and the bottom of the image is about 35 inches off the floor.

Looks great, thank you.

Except its still a little bright, my sharp had an iris control that would allow to switch between modes, bright and high contrast.

thanks
Turn the lamp-mode to Eco instead of Smart-Eco, and it'll get a little darker. You can also make it darker by turning Brilliantcolor OFF. Either or both will work.

Smart-eco being a little too bright on a 13ft-wide/179" screen...not too shabby.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #11362 of 12009 Old 07-21-2015, 04:46 AM
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Hi everyone. I'm new here, just bought a w1070. I have a question about the 3D glasses. My projector came without any and I'd need 4 of them. Therefore looking for the most economic version. Question: does it make sense looking for RF glasses with Emitter or the standard DLP 3D glasses are fine and never loses the sync? Are there any recommended best-buy glasses?
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post #11363 of 12009 Old 07-21-2015, 04:53 AM
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Hi everyone. I'm new here, just bought a w1070. I have a question about the 3D glasses. My projector came without any and I'd need 4 of them. Therefore looking for the most economic version. Question: does it make sense looking for RF glasses with Emitter or the standard DLP 3D glasses are fine and never loses the sync? Are there any recommended best-buy glasses?
You need active glasses the RF's won't work.

I bought the Sainsonic ones off of Amazon with zero issues. 5 movies in and they (6 pairs) haven't lost sync once, no cross talk, no ghosting and most importantly no red flash. I'm not sure what people are seeing but I don't see it. I have a feeling it's the same as the infamous rainbow effect, some are sensitive and some aren't. At least 20+ different friends and family have worn them and they to don't see any of that so who knows. lol
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post #11364 of 12009 Old 07-21-2015, 05:09 AM
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You need active glasses the RF's won't work.

I bought the Sainsonic ones off of Amazon with zero issues. 5 movies in and they (6 pairs) haven't lost sync once, no cross talk, no ghosting and most importantly no red flash. I'm not sure what people are seeing but I don't see it. I have a feeling it's the same as the infamous rainbow effect, some are sensitive and some aren't. At least 20+ different friends and family have worn them and they to don't see any of that so who knows. lol
1. RF's won't work, not even with emitter? As i remember I've read someone has tried it and got a better picture.

2. Which type have you bought exactly from Sainsonic? Does it make sense buying rechargeable ones or it is ok using with batteries. I don't intend playing 3D games just watching 3D movies time to time.
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post #11365 of 12009 Old 07-21-2015, 05:42 AM
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I bought the Sainsonic ones off of Amazon with zero issues. 5 movies in and they (6 pairs) haven't lost sync once, no cross talk, no ghosting and most importantly no red flash. I'm not sure what people are seeing but I don't see it.

Red flash is just red-tinting that appears most noticably on a black screen with the glasses worn: they're supposed to filter it out by having both lenses shut during the time the flash is displayed (which leaves blacks looking... black!).

I've auditioned a bunch of different glasses and some models definitely do a better job than others. Check the W1070 3D Glasses thread for some user reviews:
Benq W1070 144Hz Compatible DLP-LINK 3D Glasses

BenQ HT2050 Projector; Kodi (on Ubuntu, OpenELEC & S802) via Sony STR-DH540 AVR with Boston Acoustics SoundWare XS SE 5.1 Audio + Jamo 210 Sub. Emby for Mobile Streaming.

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post #11366 of 12009 Old 07-21-2015, 05:43 AM
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1. RF's won't work, not even with emitter? As i remember I've read someone has tried it and got a better picture.

2. Which type have you bought exactly from Sainsonic? Does it make sense buying rechargeable ones or it is ok using with batteries. I don't intend playing 3D games just watching 3D movies time to time.
I can't say for sure. Someone on here with more knowledge will clarify. As for the Sainsonic's I bought these; http://www.amazon.ca/SainSonic-Recha...ords=Sainsonic

I too play games (Alien Isolation, Tomb Raider, Hitman etc.) and movies on these with zero issues. I prefer rechargeable. I plugged them in for like 5 minutes and got through a whole movie. Sure they won't hold a charge down the road but for the price you'll get a few years out of them.
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post #11367 of 12009 Old 07-21-2015, 05:45 AM
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Red flash is just red-tinting that appears most noticably on a black screen with the glasses worn: they're supposed to filter it out by having both lenses shut during the time the flash is displayed (which leaves blacks looking... black!).
I was warned against the ones I got because they apparently aren't good at filtering out said red flash but I've seen nothing like that at all. Again, I'm not a videophile and something tells me I'm a lot less picky than most on here. No one noticed anything on my end so I'm happy either way.
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post #11368 of 12009 Old 07-21-2015, 05:52 AM
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One more question. I have to wear prescription glasses. Are there any special 3D glasses for people like me? It can be quite uncomfortable If i need to put an extra pair of glasses on the top of my own.
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post #11369 of 12009 Old 07-21-2015, 05:55 AM
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Quick question for the experts here: Which one of the fans is fan #3 ?
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post #11370 of 12009 Old 07-21-2015, 05:59 AM
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I was warned against the ones I got because they apparently aren't good at filtering out said red flash but I've seen nothing like that at all. Again, I'm not a videophile and something tells me I'm a lot less picky than most on here. No one noticed anything on my end so I'm happy either way.

Yeah agreed: we're a picky bunch. It's the 'Science' in 'AVS' to blame

That said, these are usually quite similarly priced - so most guys researching on these forums simply want the best bang for their buck. It's the reason many of us picked this particular projector!

BenQ HT2050 Projector; Kodi (on Ubuntu, OpenELEC & S802) via Sony STR-DH540 AVR with Boston Acoustics SoundWare XS SE 5.1 Audio + Jamo 210 Sub. Emby for Mobile Streaming.

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