BenQ W1070 : DLP Full HD, 3D Ready with lens-shift for 1000$ - Page 85 - AVS Forum
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post #2521 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zapper View Post

Here is a old youtube video about LCD VS DLP which one is better.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfGrWZwiRFU

YouTube is blocked here at work, but I'll watch when I get home. Sure it won't unearth anything new, but I like watching these types of vids, when done by credible sources, as often as I can.

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post #2522 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zapper View Post

Here is a old youtube video about LCD VS DLP which one is better.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfGrWZwiRFU
Nice one indeed!....lol.
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post #2523 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 02:06 PM
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Good video. I had a similar experience recently, and since I got a lot of good info from this thread when I was shopping, I'll share my $.02...

It was reading about the W1070 that first convinced me it was time to upgrade, but after much research I instead chose to order the Epson 3020 from Visual Apex. I figured the 3020's extra lumens would make the difference in 3D picture quality, and the Epson didn't disappoint--the picture was big, bright, and beautiful, even with its 3D glasses--but mine had a color uniformity issue that I didn't find acceptable for a new PJ.

VA accommodated my request to get a W1070 as a 'replacement', so I had the luxury of doing some side-by-side testing for a couple days. It was really hard to give either one up--both looked awesome for 2D & 3D movies and games, converting my big white living room wall into a portal to Pandora, the Great Barrier Reef, or anywhere else I wanted to go.

After much tweaking I got the W1070's color and 3D brightness/gamma (even using cheaper 3DTV glasses) to look very similar to the Epson 3020, but I was never quite able to get the 3020 to produce the image detail of the W1070. Objects that are supposed to appear shiny, glassy, or slick onscreen really do with the DLP (i.e. water, chrome, glass, Geico geckos, etc), giving them the illusion of tangibility that I'm most interested in.

So in the end, even though the 3020 was beautiful, and definitely the more sophisticated and user-friendly product, I just couldn't let go of my W1070. Now I'm happily re-watching my favorite movies for the first time. Hope that helps, B)
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post #2524 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Elix View Post

No offence, but you did sound like a panicky guy who makes hasty decisions smile.gif The overall reaction is quite explainable. And Coderguy sees to the root as always.
I dont make hasty decisions but i do admitt that i sounded a bit panicked..lol...but after all i already ordered it so maybe its understandable...tongue.gif...anyways i am sure i will enjoy this PJ and if i ever have any issue with the unit i will just do what needs to be done...as soon as i get it and set it up i will give my own impressions here...i am no expert in reviews and english isnt my first language but i will try my best....maybe its a no match i dont know but i will compare it with my previous PJ wich was the Optoma GT-750E.
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post #2525 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 02:19 PM
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I found this new video on youtube today..i tought it was cool.....maybe some of you will like to see it....here it is.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XS3pjaGZ1DQ
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post #2526 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimulacronBB View Post

Good video. I had a similar experience recently, and since I got a lot of good info from this thread when I was shopping, I'll share my $.02...

It was reading about the W1070 that first convinced me it was time to upgrade, but after much research I instead chose to order the Epson 3020 from Visual Apex. I figured the 3020's extra lumens would make the difference in 3D picture quality, and the Epson didn't disappoint--the picture was big, bright, and beautiful, even with its 3D glasses--but mine had a color uniformity issue that I didn't find acceptable for a new PJ.

VA accommodated my request to get a W1070 as a 'replacement', so I had the luxury of doing some side-by-side testing for a couple days. It was really hard to give either one up--both looked awesome for 2D & 3D movies and games, converting my big white living room wall into a portal to Pandora, the Great Barrier Reef, or anywhere else I wanted to go.

After much tweaking I got the W1070's color and 3D brightness/gamma (even using cheaper 3DTV glasses) to look very similar to the Epson 3020, but I was never quite able to get the 3020 to produce the image detail of the W1070. Objects that are supposed to appear shiny, glassy, or slick onscreen really do with the DLP (i.e. water, chrome, glass, Geico geckos, etc), giving them the illusion of tangibility that I'm most interested in.

So in the end, even though the 3020 was beautiful, and definitely the more sophisticated and user-friendly product, I just couldn't let go of my W1070. Now I'm happily re-watching my favorite movies for the first time. Hope that helps, B)


Thanks for recounting your experience.

One thing though. You probably didn't do a calibration on either PJ, but the W1070 is actually brighter than the Epson is after calibrating both even though the Epson is a 2400 lumen PJ and the W1070 is only a 2000 lumen one. To me, that's more important than OOTB brightness, because the fact that the Epson loses so many lumens after cal, tells me that Epson "cheated" to get those numbers.

Seems irrelevant to me to have a PJ that's 2400 lumens, but in an "unwatchable" state. Then you calibrate it and it's only 1300-1400 lumens.

All these PJ's should be giving numbers in a calibrated state (I know it will never happen). I don't need to know how bright your image will be when Green gain is maxed out, making the image look like crap lol.

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post #2527 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimulacronBB View Post

Good video. I had a similar experience recently, and since I got a lot of good info from this thread when I was shopping, I'll share my $.02...

It was reading about the W1070 that first convinced me it was time to upgrade, but after much research I instead chose to order the Epson 3020 from Visual Apex. I figured the 3020's extra lumens would make the difference in 3D picture quality, and the Epson didn't disappoint--the picture was big, bright, and beautiful, even with its 3D glasses--but mine had a color uniformity issue that I didn't find acceptable for a new PJ.

VA accommodated my request to get a W1070 as a 'replacement', so I had the luxury of doing some side-by-side testing for a couple days. It was really hard to give either one up--both looked awesome for 2D & 3D movies and games, converting my big white living room wall into a portal to Pandora, the Great Barrier Reef, or anywhere else I wanted to go.

After much tweaking I got the W1070's color and 3D brightness/gamma (even using cheaper 3DTV glasses) to look very similar to the Epson 3020, but I was never quite able to get the 3020 to produce the image detail of the W1070. Objects that are supposed to appear shiny, glassy, or slick onscreen really do with the DLP (i.e. water, chrome, glass, Geico geckos, etc), giving them the illusion of tangibility that I'm most interested in.

So in the end, even though the 3020 was beautiful, and definitely the more sophisticated and user-friendly product, I just couldn't let go of my W1070. Now I'm happily re-watching my favorite movies for the first time. Hope that helps, B)


Did you noticed the screen door effect that most LCD have like the 3020???

Ralph
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post #2528 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 03:08 PM
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Hello all!
Joined avsforum because of this projector and thread.

*please forgive mistakes in this write up. . . I'm terrible at proofing my own writing.

We've had ours for about 10 days and I thought I would give our thoughts on it.

Background
We've watched movies off our computer for the past several years. . .many actually. Just lately we decided to get an HDTV. Started off with a Samsung (UN55ES7150F) for $1,5000 (often $2k or more). It was a nightmare! Poor color accuracy, judder like you wouldn't believe, light bleeding from the lower left edge, horrible "smart" features, and artifacts on the screen that suggested it may have been a bad panel. We then went with a LG (55LS4500) we picked up for $700. When we put it next to the Samsung it looked better in every way except it's design. The color was very good and detail was better. We really liked this TV. . . HOWEVER, it started having pretty bad edge light bleeding. That's when I decided to look at projectors — always wanted to have my own movie theater. . . can't stand going to the theater and sitting in those pain traps they call seats.

We were just about to go with a Mitsubishi when this thing popped up. So we waited a month to see the reviews and then we thought the W1080ST would be even better. . .

Ordering
We ordered directly from Benq — they matched the low price of $899. We were going to go with the W1080ST (had it on pre-order for $1,049) but thought it might have edge to edge focus issues being a very short throw projector and when the price on the W1070 dropped. . . couldn't pass it up.

They were out of stock when we ordered. Took about 10 days for it to ship. Arrived in it's box — no secondary box, but it was well packed. All the latest — firmware 1.04.

Setup
The current setup is temporary as we are remodeling (completely) a house we moved into not long ago. Therefore, we are using a DIY screen with the projector at ~84" diagonal.

We are seated about 12' from the screen.
The projector is about 7' from the screen.
The projector is hooked up to a laptop through a Pioneer VSX-522-K receiver (no up-scaling - very basic).

Screen
We tested a total of 5 different DIY materials for this projector - this is a long story but I'll keep it short.

4 from HD and the Sherwin Williams white paint.
The Sherwin Williams IMO is the best and looks excellent with this projector however, the little lady thinks one of the 4'x8' from HD looks more natural. I think the "pop" and color saturation on the SW is better and that it look more natural - you don't have any of that light shining through on skin that you see so much with LCD/LED HDTV and some of these materials. However, the SW was painted over Melamine from HD. This happened because she didn't see that the Melamine's texture was causing issues with the image (don't use it) before we hung it - the initial test was a rather small projection due to certain constraints, thus I painted the Melamine with SW but the hassle of getting it flat with a roller and it hot spotted at this distance pretty bad at the level of the lens caused me to use something else.

Thus we went back to HD and got Polywall (Parkland plastics) and a 4'x8' mdf board that's white on one side — HD here has two 4'x8' white boards here in the Denver metro area, one is shinier and the other is more like paint with a fine texture as if it was rolled on very very well.

Honestly, they all look pretty decent and very similar but I chose to use the mdf that looks like it's painted on one side — easier to hang on the current dog-legged wall.

If anyone wants the details of this material I can get it - didn't keep the receipt. This is the material she thinks looks "more natural" but I think SW is better, if the hot spotting can be handled (very noticeable on white scenes) — I'll try it with a clear coat some time later and will probably spray SW onto the projector wall for the final screen at ~150" if I can work it out.

Image quality
The quality is good but that is totally dependent on the content it is fed — poorly compressed material looks horrid as it will accentuate every flaw of the content. Great 1080p content looks stunning!

The DLP "cinema" look that people talk about. . . is real. Freaked me out a little for the first hour of watching it — I adjust rather quickly. Nonetheless, this was one of many reasons I wanted DLP over LCD for a projector.

Focus seems good — slightly out of focus on the top and right of the screen but I'm pretty sure that's our non-perfect screen, and even if it isn't you don't notice it at all when watching content. . . maybe a little when using it as a monitor.

I can't say much about judder as the current laptop has poor graphics but gets the job done. What I can say, unlike the two LED-LCD HDTVs we tested, this projector has NOT add any more judder than is already there from the laptop.

Noise
If running high quality 1080p content there seems to be little to no noise however, this projector does tend to turn noise into — not sure of the term — fizzy/mosquito noise. It's just not the same noise you would see on an LCD and this projector does nothing — no matter what settings are used — to clean any of it up. Therefore, IMO it's bad for poor content (read: poorly compressed content).

Color
Pretty good out of the box. It's liveable but certainly can be better with adjustments. With the SW it didn't need any tweaking to look pretty amazing. The current board, imo, needs a little tweaking but still looks as good as any LED-LCD HDTV under $3K that we've looked at.

Brilliant color
This is actually useable! The LCD HDTVs brilliant color modes were horrid! This gives a little boost in brightness as well.

Black levels to us are fine — as good as the LCD HDTVs we tested. With both the TVs we had to push the contrast up or shadow detail would get crushed. . . we don't think this projector is any different. Black items look black in relation to everything else and is very acceptable to us.

Lumens
I hope others can clarify if they have this same issue.

The eco smart mode seems to be just as bright, if not brighter, than any other mode. In other words, I don't get any significant boost in brightness from any settings other than gamma and a slight boost form brilliant color.

Contrast
Comparing this to the LCD tvs that we tested with 17M & 4M dynamic contrast ratios. . . this has as good of a "watchable" contrast ration as either of them.

Dynamic mode
haven't really used this much. . . but it looks horrid out of the box.

3D
OK. . . this part is a little irritating if you are using a HTPC as your source.

IMO Benq has stretched the truth just a little too far when describing this projector's ability to play 3D in "full 1080p HD". They imply that you will get 1080p using just about any source. No, you won't. You will get 1080p/24hz for top-bottom/over-under and frame packing, only. Which means you have to jack with your graphics every time. . . just an annoyance — seriously, 1080i for SBS?!?!? While this is in the manual their site is a little liberal with the description and lacks any notes.

I've tried some of the ways to play 3d suggested by others. . . nothing really works for me other than changing my graphic card's properties. If I leave it set to 1080p/60hz the 3D options won't even come up.

The best solution I've found. . . set my card to 720p. For some strange reason, maybe someone here knows, this is the only setting that keeps the exact same screen size, and then I can play my 1080p 3D SBS content without any issues — yeah, I'm still not getting 1080p, but 3D isn't that big of a deal for us. Haven't even got glasses yet.

Of course, for blu-ray just set it to 1080p/24hz.

Build quality and quality control
Honestly, I don't think there is much quality control on this product.
The lid covering the vertical lens shift is so loose that it opens when you turn the projector up. . . makes it feel very cheap.

When I look into the lens from the side when it's on I swear I see dust spots inside the lens with what appears to be lens grinding marks and/or possibly a smear. . . it actually looks very dirty, but maybe that's just projectors?

While we haven't had severe problems with the HDMI ports they are not the snuggest fit and a slight bump with disconnect you.

Menu
Welcome to 1995!!!! It's just bad!

Conclusion
I take the word of fellow owners who have owned other projectors, since I haven't, on how this one rates compared to others. As has been discussed by many, for $900 there doesn't seem to be anything close — looks better than the LED-LED HDTVs we tested. . . and you get whatever screen size you desire, and that makes this projector worth keeping. The picture quality is great if you feed it quality content and it has enough lumens to deal with some ambient light. . . not a lot (blacks get hammered) unless you go with a gray screen — I think I would rather control the light and keep my whites. And honestly, at this price range I can use it till the lamp is dead and not feel bad about upgrading or throwing it in the bedroom with a new lamp and upgrading the living area.

Questions for other owners
1. there is ~1/2" boarder projected by the projector around the image. I assume this is normal?
2. as noted above, I don't get a noticeable boost in lumens when changing lamp power settings. Anyone get a big boost?
3. anyone else notice this "dirty lens" issue? Doesn't seem to effect picture quality. . . but I don't have two side by side to really say.
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post #2529 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zapper View Post

Did you noticed the screen door effect that most LCD have like the 3020???
Are you referring to standing with your eyes 1 foot away from the screen and seeing distinct squares for pixels? If you don't want to see squares when 1ft from image, you can always unfocus the projector and have a more "Film-like" quality.
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post #2530 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 03:15 PM
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I can see the screen door / pixel grid from any projector on my 13ft wall if I look close enough, but it wasn't distracting on either one. As noted by others, the 3020 was softer overall, more 'film-like'.

By the way, if you've never seen the rainbow, just turn on the W1070's test pattern--white gridlines on black--and then glance from one side to the other...bazinga! But again, not distracting in most uses.
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post #2531 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesZ7 View Post

Questions for other owners
1. there is ~1/2" boarder projected by the projector around the image. I assume this is normal?
2. as noted above, I don't get a noticeable boost in lumens when changing lamp power settings. Anyone get a big boost?
3. anyone else notice this "dirty lens" issue? Doesn't seem to effect picture quality. . . but I don't have two side by side to really say.

Here are my comments, mostly conjecture:
1. That small gap between the image and the edges of the projection field seems to an artifact of the DLP chips.
2. I also have yet to notice a change going from full bright to smart-eco mode, but from what I’ve read the change should be slow.
3. Got a little smudge on the outside of my lens, but too small to have much effect, and I think I can clean it. Thanks for pointing that out, B)
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post #2532 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 04:34 PM
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This thread should be about the W1070 and it is now going all over the place. Let's get back on track and describe experience and questions regarding this projector.
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post #2533 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

This thread should be about the W1070 and it is now going all over the place. Let's get back on track and describe experience and questions regarding this projector.
Couldn't agree more...Happy Owner Here!

So, I'm the colors on this thing are outstanding! Last night I messed around with some of Arts suggested settings and the pic was too dark. I really like the look of Standard and Dynamic...they just seem to have too much red for my taste. Any Advanced Color Settings suggestions? Can some of you share what color settings you are running?
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post #2534 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 05:41 PM
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man with the Optoma HD25 coming out and having RF, I am torn, what would be more important to me... the ease of lens shift... or better 3d with RF tech, since everything else seems to be basically the same other then the potential nosier fan that the Optoma has... guess I will have to hold tight and wait for more people to get their hands on the HD25 to compare with what people have experienced in this thread with the BenQ

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post #2535 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mastermaybe View Post

What's "fair"? Comparing "perfectly working" lcd and dlp pj's and saying lcd will likely fail before the dlp?

James

This is getting too off-track, but just to wrap this up...

There are some tested field return rates available if I can dig them up again. DLP is more reliable for the reasons I stated if the color wheel is not likely to fail (and on most new DLP's it is exceedingly rare), you are obviously arguing this as an LCD owner and not based on actual logic and facts.

DLP has fewer parts and is not usually affected or degraded by heat, no dust blobs, no convergence, less electrical parts, and has closed OPTICS. The newer CW motors are basically the same as enterprise hard drive motors (like Seagate Cheetah SAS drives) and are exceedingly rare to fail. I clearly stated my point and you twisted them around acting like a total smarty party, I said we don't know which INDIVIDUAL PROJECTOR is more reliable from a forum, but if all else is equal DLP is more reliable because color wheel failures are so rare these days, and the three issues with LCD are not rare. There is no double talk there, that is CLEARLY stated. You used cheesy "attack words" to try to turn the argument around and send it to the gutter.

I am not a DLP fanboy if that is what you are hinting, my most watched PJ is an LCOS projector, and I darn well know it is not as reliable as DLP even though I paid 3x the cost of most DLP's. The initial point remains valid, if all else is equal...

If you ACTUALLY BELIEVE that COLOR WHEELS fail in the warranty period as often as an LCD having any of several problems (dust blobs, panel issue, polarizers, convergence, complex electrical, more parts), then you are seriously misinformed and there is no reason to continue this discussion. The panels aren't even usually the first thing to go anymore on LCD (though over-time convergence can become an issue again), but it's the polarizers. The open optical path also causes some parts to fog up easier or dust and LCD's will more than not eventually need to be cracked open for cleaning, even if you changed the filters regularly, There are three panels here and polarizers, more complex parts, more numerous electrical parts, and even more complex cooling is required for an LCD.

Even though the above is true, I would not move away from LCD for this reason, if you want an LCD, then go for it. Heck, I bought a JVC knowing the lamp issues and no CMS, so it's all just your own personal decision. It doesn't mean you have to come in here and try to belittle people with false info.
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post #2536 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotter01 View Post

Well i posted here a few days ago asking for comments about this unit from owners and none did..i was happy that i ordered it at first cause as i said i read very good reviews but since all i read and saw were complaints.

There's 84 pages on this and you're bent about a page of concerns?

Seriously?
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post #2537 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 10:22 PM
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The more I read about DLP, the better I feel about my decision. I was also considering the 3020 ....why pay more for less reliability? that counts a huge amount for me. My projector is now my primary display. I don't even care, I'll run the bulb into the ground!! 530 hours now.
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post #2538 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 10:31 PM
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One thing I forgot to mention, FYI most NEW color wheels have a MAX life expectancy of around 25,0000+ hours, and will VERY rarely fail under 8,000 hours these days according to things I've read. LCD polarizers will often fail well under 10,000 or 20,000 hours, and some problems have often even showed up under 5,000. Now anything can go wrong at any time with any tech, but those ARE industry supplied numbers and can be verified if you look hard enough, but I'm not about to go browse the net again for hours and hours to find all the links. That's just a 1:1 comparison, but with LCD you have to factor the other three issues in as well, which I don't have stats on, but the other issues will just tilt it even more in favor of the DLP being more reliable. This is because the DLP doesn't even share the other issues at all.



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post #2539 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 11:26 PM
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Is anyone experiencing this issue?

I am still in the middle of my dedicated home theater do over and just finished mounting the 1070 to the ceiling.

I will set it as FRONT CEILING for position within the menu and after shutting the PJ off and back on, this option will mot stick. Oddly enough, if I go to the menu, it still shows the position option as front ceiling. I have to cycle it once with another option and once back on front ceiling, the display will show up correctly.

As soon as I shut the PJ off, it happens again. This happens continuosly and it's very irritating.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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post #2540 of 10012 Old 02-19-2013, 11:48 PM
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nope
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post #2541 of 10012 Old 02-20-2013, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

This is getting too off-track, but just to wrap this up...

There are some tested field return rates available if I can dig them up again. DLP is more reliable for the reasons I stated if the color wheel is not likely to fail (and on most new DLP's it is exceedingly rare), you are obviously arguing this as an LCD owner and not based on actual logic and facts.

DLP has fewer parts and is not usually affected or degraded by heat, no dust blobs, no convergence, less electrical parts, and has closed OPTICS. The newer CW motors are basically the same as enterprise hard drive motors (like Seagate Cheetah SAS drives) and are exceedingly rare to fail. I clearly stated my point and you twisted them around acting like a total smarty party, I said we don't know which INDIVIDUAL PROJECTOR is more reliable from a forum, but if all else is equal DLP is more reliable because color wheel failures are so rare these days, and the three issues with LCD are not rare. There is no double talk there, that is CLEARLY stated. You used cheesy "attack words" to try to turn the argument around and send it to the gutter.

I am not a DLP fanboy if that is what you are hinting, my most watched PJ is an LCOS projector, and I darn well know it is not as reliable as DLP even though I paid 3x the cost of most DLP's. The initial point remains valid, if all else is equal...

If you ACTUALLY BELIEVE that COLOR WHEELS fail in the warranty period as often as an LCD having any of several problems (dust blobs, panel issue, polarizers, convergence, complex electrical, more parts), then you are seriously misinformed and there is no reason to continue this discussion. The panels aren't even usually the first thing to go anymore on LCD (though over-time convergence can become an issue again), but it's the polarizers. The open optical path also causes some parts to fog up easier or dust and LCD's will more than not eventually need to be cracked open for cleaning, even if you changed the filters regularly, There are three panels here and polarizers, more complex parts, more numerous electrical parts, and even more complex cooling is required for an LCD.

Even though the above is true, I would not move away from LCD for this reason, if you want an LCD, then go for it. Heck, I bought a JVC knowing the lamp issues and no CMS, so it's all just your own personal decision. It doesn't mean you have to come in here and try to belittle people with false info.


"but just to wrap this up"...

literally, lmao. I never twisted a single word you typed...but you go ahead and tell me what I "believe". Par for the course. "False info"? Sure. But you won't spend "hours looking for links" to prove your basic assertions. As if ANY search for basic "known to be so" facts takes hours. Again, lmao. Go figure.

YOU have created this childish LCD vs DLP crap-a-thon. I (and others) am simply concerned with the build quality, consistent performance, and reliability of THIS projector (the 1070) vs the competition. You can babble on and on all you like about what could happen to an LCD. It's clear you don't understand incident variance and how it relates (or does not) to instance totality....that's cool. I'm sure you just know as well as I do that EITHER tech is pretty damn reliable these days when executed well (less than a 6% failure rate on either tech after 3 years) so that's why anyone with any sense (myself included) wouldn't attempt to turn this into a tech war, but rather, judge the projectors individually on their own merit...or lack thereof. In the case of the 1070, I'm working off this thread...ditto for the other PJs.

Now, even though I know you "wrapped it up" above, I'm certain I and others on this thread will be forced to endure another post by you flexing your pj-knowledge love-muscle. That's cool though, whatever helps you sleep at night. I'd just ask that you more closely read my posts and stop posting regurgitated garbage that completely misrepresents my thoughts and text.

thanks in advance,

James

Actual phone call (see pic to left):

 

Tech (responding to laughter): "I'm sorry sir, did I miss something?"

Me: "Yeah, a case of Diet Mountain Dew walking across my living room."

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post #2542 of 10012 Old 02-20-2013, 05:50 AM
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Get back on topic guys...
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post #2543 of 10012 Old 02-20-2013, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

This thread should be about the W1070 and it is now going all over the place. Let's get back on track and describe experience and questions regarding this projector.

Agreed, even though that's where this sub-dialogue started. Final word for me: the 1070 seems like an utterly fantastic-performing PJ- especially so when you consider its price tag. It didn't work for me in ONE room of my home due to its lack of LS/zoom, but it's still a the top of my list for another. Going through this thread- early on- and contrasting it with others has me a bit concerned with the number of issues in TOTALITY, again, vs comparably priced units elsewhere. That's my thought and I'm allowed to have it. I wish everyone here the best and I hope to see enough to relieve my bit of trepidation as more of these enter our community.

And I'll apologize for my bit of juvenile posting...I have no axe to grind or animosity towards coderguy or anyone else. It's unfortunate that you can quickly misrepresent yourself with a few lines of text. Sorry.

thanks,
James

Actual phone call (see pic to left):

 

Tech (responding to laughter): "I'm sorry sir, did I miss something?"

Me: "Yeah, a case of Diet Mountain Dew walking across my living room."

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post #2544 of 10012 Old 02-20-2013, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post

Is anyone experiencing this issue?

I am still in the middle of my dedicated home theater do over and just finished mounting the 1070 to the ceiling.

I will set it as FRONT CEILING for position within the menu and after shutting the PJ off and back on, this option will mot stick. Oddly enough, if I go to the menu, it still shows the position option as front ceiling. I have to cycle it once with another option and once back on front ceiling, the display will show up correctly.

As soon as I shut the PJ off, it happens again. This happens continuosly and it's very irritating.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


Nope. I would suggest calling Benq or return for replacement.
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post #2545 of 10012 Old 02-20-2013, 06:53 AM
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I would think that there is nothing wrong with the projector. Call Benq and describe the issue that may be able to walk you through how to retain previous settings. If something really is wrong they will send you a RMA
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post #2546 of 10012 Old 02-20-2013, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mastermaybe View Post

And I'll apologize for my bit of juvenile posting...I have no axe to grind or animosity towards coderguy or anyone else. It's unfortunate that you can quickly misrepresent yourself with a few lines of text. Sorry.

thanks,
James

I didn't create any DLP vs. LCD telethon (at least not intentionally), I just simply stated why DLP is usually the most reliable of all 3 techs and is not an emotional thing. People are trying to make decisions based on some info in here, and sometimes I will speak up when I feel there is hot air being blown around (to my own detriment). This is a DLP thread, and as such we have a tendency to post the advantages of this projector in this thread. I have used the Epsons, own a JVC, and have a Benq w7000 (among others I have used). This has little to do with whether someone picks LCD vs. DLP vs. LCOS, I prefer LCOS for some movies but what does that have to do with reliability. Ask an expert at a projector repair shop if you can find one to call, what is more common to fail, an LCD polarizer or a DLP color wheel on a newer model. I have recommended LCD projectors many times for people that want better blacks in the sub $2.2k, but in this price range yes I will usually recommend DLP. Convergence issues on LCD for picky people in this forum are actually VERY high. I know because I've had my share fair of dealings with it myself.

Return rates for projector failures are only low because the average user does not put many hours on their projectors. For those of us hard-core users that put many hours in, our failure rates are exponentially higher. Those low failure rates do not apply to hard-core users that use projectors like TV's, because we are less than a 1/3rd subset of the projector user population and it distorts the statistic.



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post #2547 of 10012 Old 02-20-2013, 08:52 AM
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Hi guy's ready tp pull the trigger on the Benq from Amazon when I remembered that I think that the forum gets some sort of credit , how do we go about doing this if applicable.

Ralph
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post #2548 of 10012 Old 02-20-2013, 10:21 AM
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Coderguy, I always appreciate your unbiased information on projectors. I know that this is a result of owning countless projectors. Not sure how anyone can argue with first hand experience.
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post #2549 of 10012 Old 02-20-2013, 10:41 AM
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6 days of ownership. It has turned into our main tv. We have 3 flat screens. Plug it in and enjoy, no issues so far. Everything i stated in my review earlier in this post holds true. Why spend double....buy this AND an inexpensive surround sound....enjoy it

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post #2550 of 10012 Old 02-20-2013, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

I would think that there is nothing wrong with the projector. Call Benq and describe the issue that may be able to walk you through how to retain previous settings. If something really is wrong they will send you a RMA

Will BenQ send me a new one or a refurb one? I bought mine through Amazon and I'm thinking it might be better to just send it back and have them send me another one.

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