Epson 5020UB Owners Thread... - Page 11 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #301 of 1295 Old 03-23-2013, 12:20 AM
Senior Member
 
jmoakk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 200
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Well I've decided to send my 5020 back. The auto iris is too aggressive for me to even use and displaying an all black screen reveals a blue tinge on the right side.

While the increase in contrast and black levels was noticable, I don't feel like the PQ increase is worth the extra $1700 over my 8350. Which might be due to the fact that I don't have a dedicated theatre room. I believe the black levels suffered a little bit due to my living room environment. They were just not as good as I expected them to be. Maybe when the price comes down a bit or if I had a dedicated theatre room the upgrade would feel worth it but for now I'm going back to an 8350.
jmoakk is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #302 of 1295 Old 03-23-2013, 09:10 AM
Senior Member
 
harmil2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Salem, Oregon 97304
Posts: 238
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have found that Netflix and the Darby just don't play well together regarding video dropouts. I get Netflix from both an old Roku XS and my new Sony 790 bluray player and both exhibit the same problem. Unless I take the Darby out of the line I get a very dark picture from both streaming service sources with only Netflix having the additional problem of video and sometimes audio cutting in and out in a random manner. All other services such as VUDU, Amazon, etc have no video dropout but may show the darkened picture. I have even tried monoprice redmere cables which are great but didn't fix the Netflix/Darby problem. I am stumped as to why Netflix especially and Darby just won't play nice and it is frustrating as the Darby does give the picture a nice bump up in quality and I do really like Netflix. My main service is Directv and the picture is beautiful and steady all the time with the Darby inline whether I use directv streaming VOD or sat. Thank you Directv. Since my Yamaha avr has two outputs I think I will use one with my Darby inline for Directv, etc. and then use the 2nd hdmi output straight through to my 5020's 2nd hdmi input without the Darby just for when I watch Netflix and non directv streaming services. I have never had a problem with Netflix dropouts unless the Darby is inline.
harmil2 is offline  
post #303 of 1295 Old 03-23-2013, 09:28 AM
Member
 
Bob Benson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Parsippany, NJ
Posts: 110
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 15
On my system the Darby was not the problem.

The drop outs continue with it removed from the chain.

Also I have been using the Darby for months on all sources to my pro8100 and experienced no issues.

XBL Gamertag - PVT Hicks
Bob Benson is offline  
post #304 of 1295 Old 03-23-2013, 12:47 PM
Member
 
Bob Benson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Parsippany, NJ
Posts: 110
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 15
So now I'm fairly confident my problem was the AVR.

I am using a pioneer vsx-522-k.

It never gave me any problems before, though this is the first time it was attached to a 3d display. Which is unfortunate because I specifically bought it as it was 3d ready with plans for a future upgrade.

But anyway, we'll see how it goes but with the AVR out of the chain its very stable today.

And the AVR is staying out of the chain regardless because I think I fried the video output on the AVR now.

I can't get a video out signal via hdmi now at all. And I tried on other displays. No signal is seen now.

I think because I was pulling cables out trying different combinations so much today I accidentally pulled a cable while power was still on to the AVR, swtich or source component and that fried the output.

I did a full factory reset and its still not working.

I'm still getting audio via the hdmi inputs but video out really seems like its gone.

So the question becomes, do I try replacing the AVR? Or do I use a combination of switches and splitters to use the AVR only for audio with the source components video fed to the Epson via a switch?

Its hard to know which setup is going possibly introduce more problems as far as hdmi dropouts.

Right now the PS3 is hooked up to a 3d certified splitter. Which directs hdmi for audio only to the AVR and the other output to the darby which is connected to the Epson.

Like I said 3d seems very stable now connected like this.

But to make this setup work I would need to also add and hdmi switcher as I have at least 3 more sources that need to connect to the Epson.

XBL Gamertag - PVT Hicks
Bob Benson is offline  
post #305 of 1295 Old 03-23-2013, 05:27 PM
AVS Special Member
 
WillyJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlanta Metro Area, Georgia, USA
Posts: 1,607
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 68
Well, I got my 5020 yesterday and attempted to get it mounted today. Found out the hdmi cable that was strung through the attic last year when the room was built is defective. Also having some issues with the ceiling mount that I bought getting the projector centered and balanced. Will have to get up in the attic and fish another cable and figure out the ceiling mount issue. So my projector "experience" is now in delay mode................Good thing I actually enjoy doing this kind of thing.smile.gif
WillyJ is offline  
post #306 of 1295 Old 03-23-2013, 08:04 PM
Member
 
Theheadsn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyJ View Post

Well, I got my 5020 yesterday and attempted to get it mounted today. Found out the hdmi cable that was strung through the attic last year when the room was built is defective. Also having some issues with the ceiling mount that I bought getting the projector centered and balanced. Will have to get up in the attic and fish another cable and figure out the ceiling mount issue. So my projector "experience" is now in delay mode................Good thing I actually enjoy doing this kind of thing.smile.gif

Sucks right? I ran my HDMI cable, and totally ignored the fact that it was directional before running it. Guess if it worked... lol Had to pull it and re run it. Thank god most of it was in conduit. As far as centering it, dont worry about getting it down to the inch, as much as you can lense shift left and right you should be good if you dont put it to far off.
Theheadsn is offline  
post #307 of 1295 Old 03-23-2013, 08:05 PM
Member
 
Theheadsn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Btw guys, if your interested I finally posted pictures of my home theater setup if you interested to comment, complain, or just nitpick lol

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1464787/socal-garage-home-theater-setup#post_23117754
Theheadsn is offline  
post #308 of 1295 Old 03-24-2013, 07:06 AM
AVS Special Member
 
WillyJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlanta Metro Area, Georgia, USA
Posts: 1,607
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theheadsn View Post

Sucks right? I ran my HDMI cable, and totally ignored the fact that it was directional before running it. Guess if it worked... lol Had to pull it and re run it. Thank god most of it was in conduit. As far as centering it, dont worry about getting it down to the inch, as much as you can lense shift left and right you should be good if you dont put it to far off.

I used conduit for most of the room (where it is virtually impossible to reach once the sheetrock was up) but for this area, it wasn't absolutely necessary. I still have to crawl around that scratchy blown-in fiberglass insulation and do quite a bit of cussing while I am at it though. wink.gif

Once mounted, it is aimed left rather than offset left. The mount I bought allows for all kinds of adjustment; However, it doesn't allow any way to swivel the projector left and right. I saw this before I hung it up there and spent quite of bit of time trying to get the bracket square to the front of the room but when I finally got the projector up, well, it is off by a good 15-20 degrees. Since I am new at this projector business, I can see that I should have probably purchased a different mount but ............well, now I know.................The upside it that the bracket is white and fairly inconspicuous once the pj is up. White hdmi and white power cord accessorize the ensemble nicely.biggrin.gif
WillyJ is offline  
post #309 of 1295 Old 03-25-2013, 11:23 AM
Newbie
 
bradjw1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyJ View Post

Well, I got my 5020 yesterday and attempted to get it mounted today. Found out the hdmi cable that was strung through the attic last year when the room was built is defective. Also having some issues with the ceiling mount that I bought getting the projector centered and balanced. Will have to get up in the attic and fish another cable and figure out the ceiling mount issue. So my projector "experience" is now in delay mode................Good thing I actually enjoy doing this kind of thing.smile.gif

I installed my projector Friday. I bought a redmere cable at the same time to replace my 6 year old hdmi cable. I'm not sure if I really needed to or not, but the new cable works great so I'm not going back.

I'm having problems with my old mount as well. My peerless mount is working, but I really think I need to replace it. It sure doesn't feel "solid", but it's doing the job for now.

Projector is great though. I replaced a Sharp xv z12000k mark II. That was a good projector, but dim. I didn't use it all that much either. I'm hoping with this being a brighter projector and the bulb-life being longer (and the bulbs being cheaper than that sharp) that I actually use this a lot more.

No issues with 3D. I don't know if I have convergence issues, but if I do, I sure don't notice them.

Very happy with this purchase.
bradjw1 is offline  
post #310 of 1295 Old 03-25-2013, 02:20 PM
Member
 
CentralCoaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Hells yeah. My 5020 and the remainder of my A/V cabling is showing up this week, and I f**** up my knee yesterday and am on crutches for 2-3 weeks. Maybe my crippled self can drag the box inside the house and run the cables across the floor, lol.

I bought some amazon bluerigger HDMI cables before finding monoprice for the other stuff. The amazon works fine at 25' to the TV so far. Not sure if I want to bother putting these fraudulent cables inside the walls.
CentralCoaster is offline  
post #311 of 1295 Old 03-25-2013, 10:22 PM
Advanced Member
 
kevings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Anaheim / Orange
Posts: 566
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 49 Post(s)
Liked: 147
kevings is online now  
post #312 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 06:57 AM
Member
 
mumbleypeg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 75
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I am exchanging my 5020 for convergence. I was unable to correct it using only full pixel adjustments. While I am disappointed with the factory calibration, I must say that I am pleased with the customer service. They are overnighting the replacement.
mumbleypeg is offline  
post #313 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 07:22 AM
AVS Special Member
 
WillyJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlanta Metro Area, Georgia, USA
Posts: 1,607
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 68
I don't have my 5020 up yet but I am wondering about these convergence reports - don't these projectors have convergence adjustment like the old rear projection sets or is the convergence problem so bad on some units that the built-in adjustment is not sufficient (and the units have to be exchanged)?
WillyJ is offline  
post #314 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 08:18 AM
Member
 
JustAnEE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 74
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyJ View Post

I don't have my 5020 up yet but I am wondering about these convergence reports - don't these projectors have convergence adjustment like the old rear projection sets or is the convergence problem so bad on some units that the built-in adjustment is not sufficient (and the units have to be exchanged)?

If you consider the physical construction of the projector and how it works (You can google for images of the inside of the projector, or I have pictures of one here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1458911/epson-8100-replaced-bulb-and-now-pink-blue-bands#post_23003902 ), you may better understand.

There are several lenses in the light path from the lamp to the LCD screens. There are 3 physical LCD screens. These of course do not mechanically move in these projectors (imagine added cost if they added mechanical adjustment of each LCD's position) The LCDs are very tiny and a single pixel is 1/1920th the width of the LCD.... A panel being "misaligned" by less than 1 pixel is a very small distance.
DLP projectors do not have this issue because there's only one DLP chip where the light is reflecting off of, so it's "perfectly aligned" with itself. However, I'd imagine the more expensive 3DLP projectors could possibly have similar convergence issues because they have 3 DLP chips that must be aligned.

As said already, they don't have tiny motors in these projectors to move each LCD screen, so essentially the built-in adjustment uses software/firmware to shift which pixels are used. For example, if Red is off by 1 pixel to the right of Green in the projected image, it can be adjusted to just "move" the image 1 pixel to the left. For non-whole pixel adjustments, it will do things like (just an example, probably not the correct %'s) for an exactly half-pixel adjustment it will "split" 50% of the pixel's brightness in one pixel and 50% of it in the adjacent pixel. When you do this type of non-whole pixel adjustment there is some degradation to the image (debateable how noticeable). As a direct answer to your last question, with the built-in alignment you can adjust to less than 1/2 pixel misconvergence at-worst if you stick to whole-pixel increments.

Some people are very picky and put their face 1 ft from the screen, and it's off by 1/2 a pixel each on Red/Blue and its unusable convergence to them. Other projectors really have issues (misalignment by several pixels is a real problem if it occurs, and can be seen from viewing distance). You might get lucky and get a projector where the three panels appear to be near-perfectly aligned, but more likely you'll get one that has the panels at least off by a fraction of a pixel. To many people this is acceptable and expected, but to others it is not. Some people may have exceptional eyesight and see the misconvergence when watching movies or reading text from viewing distance.

It's debatable how much a small misconvergence will actually affect the image quality that you will actually see. At a first thought someone might say that one of the other panels were off by 1 pixel to the right (and not adjusted for), that you'd have a projector with equivalent to half the native resolution. In reality, this is not the case as your eye is more sensitive to yellow-green than the other colors. This is why when you do the LCD alignment adjustment it leaves the Green alone and you adjust the Blue/Red and it won't "split" the Green pixels. This will result in you still being able to perceive each individual pixel (assuming you're close enough to the screen, you're eyesight's good enough, etc), and not seeing as large a difference from the split pixels for Red/Blue.

Also, if you wear eyeglasses with high-index lenses, you're likely to see much more distortion at viewing distance due to your eyeglass lenses than due to misconvergence. In my specific case (around -5 prescription with 1.61 index lenses) the effect is comparable to more than 1 pixel misconvergence on the edges of the screen.

--As a side benefit of slight misconvergence, if the other panels are very slightly off in vertical and horizontal (1/3 pixel?), I think that you can effectively nearly eliminate the "screen-door-effect" at close viewing range that the people who prefer DLP seem to complain about most in LCD projectors.
CentralCoaster likes this.
JustAnEE is offline  
post #315 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 08:31 AM
Newbie
 
Jasonrs55's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
My 5020UB arrived today from visual apex. Very fast delivery. Can't wait to get it hooked up! The basement/theater should be done in about a month. I also ordered a Peerless PRG-EXA in white. I need my projector to be about 11 inches off the ceiling and the Peerless seemed to fit the bill. Anyone have experience with this mount for the 5020UB?
Jasonrs55 is offline  
post #316 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 08:43 AM
AVS Special Member
 
WillyJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlanta Metro Area, Georgia, USA
Posts: 1,607
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnEE View Post

If you consider the physical construction of the projector and how it works (You can google for images of the inside of the projector, or I have pictures of one here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1458911/epson-8100-replaced-bulb-and-now-pink-blue-bands#post_23003902 ), you may better understand.

There are several lenses in the light path from the lamp to the LCD screens. There are 3 physical LCD screens. These of course do not mechanically move in these projectors (imagine added cost if they added mechanical adjustment of each LCD's position) The LCDs are very tiny and a single pixel is 1/1920th the width of the LCD.... A panel being "misaligned" by less than 1 pixel is a very small distance.
DLP projectors do not have this issue because there's only one DLP chip where the light is reflecting off of, so it's "perfectly aligned" with itself. However, I'd imagine the more expensive 3DLP projectors could possibly have similar convergence issues because they have 3 DLP chips that must be aligned.........................

Thanks for the detailed response. I read a couple of reviews in magazines about this projector and they reported more serious convergence issues with the 5010 than the 5020 but still a fairly common issue it would seem based on this forum; However, most folks that don't have a problem or don't know they have a problem would not be reporting anyway of course so the AVS forum is probably not a good enough sample size.

Should have mine up this weekend but now I have something new to worry about.smile.gif
WillyJ is offline  
post #317 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 08:53 AM
AVS Special Member
 
drhankz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,423
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyJ View Post

Should have mine up this weekend but now I have something new to worry about.smile.gif

Everyone needs something to worry about.

My 5010 was installed over a year ago without a single tweak.

Only the people with PROBLEMS come to AVS.

Think about how many Epsons are SOLD versus the few we hear about on AVS.

Keep Worrying.
drhankz is offline  
post #318 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 09:00 AM
AVS Special Member
 
WillyJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlanta Metro Area, Georgia, USA
Posts: 1,607
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Everyone needs something to worry about.

My 5010 was installed over a year ago without a single tweak.

Only the people with PROBLEMS come to AVS.

Think about how many Epsons are SOLD versus the few we hear about on AVS.

Keep Worrying.

True dat..................However, whenever I see MADE IN CHINA on anything I buy nowadays I start to worry.wink.gif
WillyJ is offline  
post #319 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 09:06 AM
Member
 
JustAnEE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 74
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Everyone needs something to worry about.

My 5010 was installed over a year ago without a single tweak.

Think about how many Epsons are SOLD versus the few we hear about on AVS.

Keep Worrying.

I'm just waiting for someone to buy one and return it for slight misconvergence at a local Best Buy in San Antonio, so I can upgrade ... :/
JustAnEE is offline  
post #320 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 09:13 AM
AVS Special Member
 
drhankz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,423
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyJ View Post

True dat..................However, whenever I see MADE IN CHINA on anything I buy nowadays I start to worry.wink.gif

Especially those iPhones smile.gifbiggrin.giftongue.gifwink.gif
drhankz is offline  
post #321 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 01:16 PM
AVS Special Member
 
WillyJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlanta Metro Area, Georgia, USA
Posts: 1,607
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 68
I got my 106" diag ceiling mount screen up today but it isn't balanced from the hooks in the ceiling. The bottom is pitched forward (the bottom back edge is lower than the bottom front edge). Besides looking weird, the screen rubs the back of the exit chute when lowering and raising and I am thinking this will wear the screen out at some point. I am surprised the screen isn't balanced by the location of the supplied bracket holes. I am using 2 screw eyes and 2 S hooks (which is what the screen manuf suggests).

Any one have any suggestions on how to fix this? Thanks.
WillyJ is offline  
post #322 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 02:19 PM
Member
 
CentralCoaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyJ View Post

I got my 106" diag ceiling mount screen up today but it isn't balanced from the hooks in the ceiling. The bottom is pitched forward (the bottom back edge is lower than the bottom front edge). Besides looking weird, the screen rubs the back of the exit chute when lowering and raising and I am thinking this will wear the screen out at some point. I am surprised the screen isn't balanced by the location of the supplied bracket holes. I am using 2 screw eyes and 2 S hooks (which is what the screen manuf suggests).

Any one have any suggestions on how to fix this? Thanks.

Sounds like you'll have to find a way to move the supports rearward a bit. Either by bending and reinstalling the hooks that are there, or relocating them. Also as the screen drops the casing could tilt back a bit more even.
CentralCoaster is offline  
post #323 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 02:24 PM
Member
 
CentralCoaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 133
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevings View Post

coaster,

here you go....

http://www.amazon.com/OmniMount-Tria-Shelf-Furniture-Black/dp/B001DMJ49C

Thanks! This is much more compact than the one I was looking at before, and the glass is black so the bottom of the white case won't show.
CentralCoaster is offline  
post #324 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 04:13 PM
Senior Member
 
Brian Miller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 449
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Miller View Post

Hi guys, I need your help to determine if my 5020 is working correctly. With all the rave reviews about this projector's black level, I'm beginning to think mine has a problem (maybe with the iris) since blacks are still a dark gray for me.

It's hard to come up with meaningful tests for black level without a light meter, but I've made an attempt. Can someone please try these out on their 5020 so we can compare results?

Setup: In a fully light-controlled room (or at night), put on a source that has an all-black image (for instance, pause a movie before it starts). Set the iris to Fast, mode to Cinema, and lamp to ECO.

My observations:
  1. Hand-puppets are obvious and easy to see. The difference between the black shadow of my hand and the light hitting the screen shows an obvious "dark grey" color coming from the projector.
  2. Stand near the screen, and look back toward the projector. I see a fairly bright, bluish light coming from the projector. It is not quite bright enough to induce squinting, but it is surprisingly bright for a black image.
  3. Try reading a book by the light hitting the screen. I cannot make out individual words, but I can see that there are individual lines of text and spaces between words.
  4. Turn the iris off and on. I find the iris only makes the image subtly darker (just a bit darker), but it is not dramatically darker.

How does this compare to yours?
Can someone compare the 4 observations above with their 5020? I think mine may have a black level problem but it's hard to know without some sort of comparison. I'd really appreciate it!
Brian Miller is offline  
post #325 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 04:47 PM
Member
 
Bob Benson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Parsippany, NJ
Posts: 110
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 15
1. I can make shadows from a black image. But it is far from obvious. They are barely there.
2. With a black image I can see some light leakage but it is very low.
3. From a black image? No I cannot read at all. With a bright scene I can easily read.
4. I haven't really done too much comparison between the different IRIS settings. That said I decided it added something to black levels so I set it to "high speed" for all picture modes.

XBL Gamertag - PVT Hicks
Bob Benson is offline  
post #326 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 04:52 PM
AVS Special Member
 
WillyJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlanta Metro Area, Georgia, USA
Posts: 1,607
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 68
I might be able to attach a small turnbuckle to pull up the back. But isn't this really just a bad design by the screen manuf. for it to not balance? I am using the brackets they supplied and it should be balanced out of the box right? I am not doing anything out of the ordinary to mount it. I am having to jury rig the thing and that doesn't make sense - hence my posting to see if any one else has experienced this or maybe suggest that I am doing something wrong. It is a Da-Lite electric screen. And it doesn't balance any better fully extended.

Thanks.
WillyJ is offline  
post #327 of 1295 Old 03-26-2013, 11:25 PM
Senior Member
 
Brian Miller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 449
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Benson View Post

1. I can make shadows from a black image. But it is far from obvious. They are barely there.
2. With a black image I can see some light leakage but it is very low.
3. From a black image? No I cannot read at all. With a bright scene I can easily read.
4. I haven't really done too much comparison between the different IRIS settings. That said I decided it added something to black levels so I set it to "high speed" for all picture modes.
Thanks Bob. That sounds pretty different from what I am seeing. Looks like I need to contact Epson.
Brian Miller is offline  
post #328 of 1295 Old 03-27-2013, 10:57 AM
Member
 
dks202's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnEE View Post



I'm just waiting for someone to buy one and return it for slight misconvergence at a local Best Buy in San Antonio, so I can upgrade ... :/

You won't get mine! I have the ube version (wireless) no problems or issues. I think these are special order from Best Buy, I forgot I didn't get it there anyway.

To me it was the best picture I have ever seen, .....ever..... (projected on a Black Diamond Zero Edge 1.4 screen).
dks202 is offline  
post #329 of 1295 Old 03-27-2013, 11:15 AM
Advanced Member
 
bambam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 719
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyJ View Post

True dat..................However, whenever I see MADE IN CHINA on anything I buy nowadays I start to worry.wink.gif

Then you are going to be worrying quite a bit my friend:D!
bambam is online now  
post #330 of 1295 Old 03-27-2013, 08:02 PM
Newbie
 
bradjw1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
My projector has a blue splotch on the right side of the screen. Noticed it a lot tonight. Any reason I shouldn't swap it out?
bradjw1 is offline  
Reply Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP

Tags
Samsung Ssg 4100gb 3d Active Glasses 2012 Model , Epson 5020ub Powerlite Home Cinema 3d Front Projector
Gear in this thread

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off