Epson 5020UB Owners Thread... - Page 43 - AVS Forum
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post #1261 of 1314 Old 03-27-2014, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by old corps View Post

Very nice Scott! Super nice theater & enjoyed your video. Thanks for posting the link!cool.gif

Ed
Thanks Ed!

MY HOME THEATER VIDEO!


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post #1262 of 1314 Old 03-28-2014, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Benson View Post

I have the Epson glasses and 1 pair of Panasonic RF glasses.

I picked up the Panasonic because I wanted to try a different glass brand and I found a couple references to the Panasonic RF glasses being highly regarded.

I found no difference 3d quality wise.

I find the Epson's slightly more comfortable.

Not sure if they are worth the 100 dollar price tag though.

I understand that Samsung RF glasses can be had for around 20 dollars a pair. Though they are not rechargeable and are bit more flimsy in their construction.

I think the Panasonic can be found for around 60-70. They are just as good as the Epson though I personally find the Epson's plastic to feel more comfortable on my face.

Check out my review of the ValueView glasses.
They work great for me.

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post #1263 of 1314 Old 04-01-2014, 08:17 AM
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I am a bit upset about this projector mainly for one problem.

I need to use the panel alignment because are way off.

The problem is when i turn on the frame interpolation at the same time with the panel alignment turned on.

All the alignment is messed up!!!! So it seems that both features doesn't work well together.

Had all of you the same problem or just me? If not was just thinking that maybe could be resolved with a firmware upgrade.

I like the Fi in low but can't use cause this. SAD.
Thanks
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post #1264 of 1314 Old 04-01-2014, 09:41 AM
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This doesn't happen on my 5010. I also don't see how they are connected? How are you determining the alignment is off with FI on?
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post #1265 of 1314 Old 04-01-2014, 09:53 AM
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Mine is a 5020. The alignment is not off with fi on. It remains on but when you set the fi on there is diaglinment again, as bad as before alignment, and the pixels blured. So basically as wrong or even worse.

Very strange thing
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post #1266 of 1314 Old 04-01-2014, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by loperasovic View Post

Mine is a 5020. The alignment is not off with fi on. It remains on but when you set the fi on there is diaglinment again, as bad as before alignment, and the pixels blured. So basically as wrong or even worse.

Very strange thing
I don't mean off as in turned off I mean off as in not aligned. Are you using a test pattern or maybe text to establish there is an alignment problem? Does the problem exist on still frames?
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post #1267 of 1314 Old 04-01-2014, 10:46 AM
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Yes i see in patterns, in text and in images, still and in movement. Is as it can't do the alignment and the fi at the same time.
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post #1268 of 1314 Old 04-03-2014, 04:51 AM
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Anyone with the FI/panel alignment problem?
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post #1269 of 1314 Old 04-03-2014, 10:54 AM
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I have aligned my 5020, and use FI on "low" with no issue.
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post #1270 of 1314 Old 04-03-2014, 02:56 PM
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Can you say me the firmware version?
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post #1271 of 1314 Old 04-19-2014, 04:25 PM
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Hi Everyone,

My refurb Epson 5020UBe was delivered this morning. Wow, this thing is HUGE. I got a BenQ W1070 (my first projector) but returned it in a couple of days due to dull headaches from RBE - apparently I am very sensitive to it. Was trying decide between the 5030UB and the Sony HW-50ES (B-Stock) when the I saw the refurb 5020UBe at Visual Apex a couple of weeks back. Been playing with it all afternoon. Just projecting on a blank white wall on the basement, haven't decided on a screen yet.

+ Image looks great out of the box in THX mode.
+ Lamp hours shows 0 hrs.
+ 3D looked very nice, I didn't notice any cross talk (was watching Brave).
+ Convergence looks good as far as I can tell. Will do more specific testing tomorrow.

- The Wireless HD transmitter is a bit quirky to work with. But got the hang of it after a few minutes. Been working very well all afternoon.
- Fan is kinda loud if not in ECO mode.

Thanks for all the information in this thread. I am sure I will be referring to it in the coming days.

Cheers.
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post #1272 of 1314 Old 04-24-2014, 06:32 PM
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I received my 5020ube today and have not yet hooked it up, so I may jumping the gun here, but I was moving the lens shift dials just to see how they felt and the vertical shift was difficult to move in either direction. It also wanted to spring back after moving a little and occasionally "click" while I was moving it. Should this dial move freely? I'll check it out once I hook it up, but was just curious.
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post #1273 of 1314 Old 04-24-2014, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamhead View Post

I received my 5020ube today and have not yet hooked it up, so I may jumping the gun here, but I was moving the lens shift dials just to see how they felt and the vertical shift was difficult to move in either direction. It also wanted to spring back after moving a little and occasionally "click" while I was moving it. Should this dial move freely? I'll check it out once I hook it up, but was just curious.

Normal - those dials are fiddly. Luckily, once you get it set you shouldn't have to deal with it again unless you move the pj.
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post #1274 of 1314 Old 04-25-2014, 06:20 AM
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Thank you. I'll have to give it a thorough run through once I hook it up.
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post #1275 of 1314 Old 05-04-2014, 07:29 AM
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Does anyone know the manufacturer and model number of the bulb in this pj? (not the epson number) is it osram? would love to be able to just buy a bare bulb and replace to save cash. I go through bulbs way too fast frown.gif

Thanks!
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post #1276 of 1314 Old 05-04-2014, 10:47 AM
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$73 with the housing on ebay right now... shipped!

Not worth the hassle to find a bare bulb cheaper and do all the work to install.

"Engineers aren't boring people, we just get excited over boring things".
--Anon.

 

 

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post #1277 of 1314 Old 05-05-2014, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyJ View Post

Normal - those dials are fiddly. Luckily, once you get it set you shouldn't have to deal with it again unless you move the pj.

I've owned my projector for a few months now, and I seem to be having problems with the vertical lense shift dial. As the poster a few posts back stated, the dials are difficult to set. Mine are hard to move and then will spring back at times. I've had to readjust the vertical one a few times. It will be fine for a while and then one day the image has shifted down by a couple inches. I've taken to overcompensating when setting the position, or rather i'll shift it up past where I want it to go and then move it back down into position. Not a huge deal, but an annoyance. Anyone else experience this?
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post #1278 of 1314 Old 05-05-2014, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyJonesBSME View Post

$73 with the housing on ebay right now... shipped!

Not worth the hassle to find a bare bulb cheaper and do all the work to install.

except those are generic bulbs that are probably horrible... I want to buy an OEM bare bulb instead of spending the 230 for an OEM one from epson.

for example for my JVC RS2 I could buy this bulb:
http://replacementlightbulbs.com/lamp69471.html
which is a genuine OSRAM bulb.
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post #1279 of 1314 Old 05-05-2014, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usace View Post

I've owned my projector for a few months now, and I seem to be having problems with the vertical lense shift dial. As the poster a few posts back stated, the dials are difficult to set. Mine are hard to move and then will spring back at times. I've had to readjust the vertical one a few times. It will be fine for a while and then one day the image has shifted down by a couple inches. I've taken to overcompensating when setting the position, or rather i'll shift it up past where I want it to go and then move it back down into position. Not a huge deal, but an annoyance. Anyone else experience this?

I have the same problem with 5010 when ceiling mounted. Many posters in 5010 thread have mentioned theirs shifted down after awhile. I wonder why Epson never fix these problems on the next models?

mark
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post #1280 of 1314 Old 05-07-2014, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyJonesBSME View Post

$73 with the housing on ebay right now... shipped!

Not worth the hassle to find a bare bulb cheaper and do all the work to install.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boggle View Post

except those are generic bulbs that are probably horrible... I want to buy an OEM bare bulb instead of spending the 230 for an OEM one from epson.

for example for my JVC RS2 I could buy this bulb:
http://replacementlightbulbs.com/lamp69471.html
which is a genuine OSRAM bulb.

I am looking at buying this projector as my TV only projector and would put lots of hours on it. Has anyone bought any of the cheaper bulbs($73-$75) off of eBay and can report their success? I worry, like Boggle, that the eBay bulbs might be crap and not as bright or last very long but the thriftyness in me wants to pay as little as possible.

Thanks,
Mike

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post #1281 of 1314 Old 05-08-2014, 05:30 AM
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non commercial Pj's are not intended for everyday continuous use. They are for occasional use. You are asking for trouble if you intend to do so.
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post #1282 of 1314 Old 05-08-2014, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ashyt16 View Post

non commercial Pj's are not intended for everyday continuous use. They are for occasional use. You are asking for trouble if you intend to do so.

I've owned 15+ projectors and used some of them as everyday projectors with no problems. Where are you getting your info?

Thanks,
Mike
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post #1283 of 1314 Old 05-08-2014, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by mbw23air View Post

I've owned 15+ projectors and used some of them as everyday projectors with no problems. Where are you getting your info?

Thanks,
Mike

i agree mbw23air that is flagrantly inaccurate. I've put 8k+ hours on multiple projectors with the only hiccup being the stack of bulbs I've gone through.
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post #1284 of 1314 Old 05-08-2014, 12:47 PM
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I've been told over the phone (via manufacturer sales rep) that it's best to give the lamp-based PJs a half-hour/hour rest after 3-4hours of use. To be fair, the same phone crew misquoted their own PJ model specs and at least one other major whoops, so i probably would be equally well-off asking some random passerby, lol.

Is there a general recommendation for normal or eco-mode run-time, or is the projector technically safe and sound running 24/7?

Simple
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post #1285 of 1314 Old 05-08-2014, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post

I've been told over the phone (via manufacturer sales rep) that it's best to give the lamp-based PJs a half-hour/hour rest after 3-4hours of use. To be fair, the same phone crew misquoted their own PJ model specs and at least one other major whoops, so i probably would be equally well-off asking some random passerby, lol.

Tru dat!! wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post

Is there a general recommendation for normal or eco-mode run-time, or is the projector technically safe and sound running 24/7?

I'm only thinking of running one anywhere from 4-8 hours on most days. I guess that is what the 2 warranty is for. Now 24/7 and I can see where you would need a commercial projector for long time use.
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post #1286 of 1314 Old 05-08-2014, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post

I've been told over the phone (via manufacturer sales rep) that it's best to give the lamp-based PJs a half-hour/hour rest after 3-4hours of use.

That ain't happening.wink.gif
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post #1287 of 1314 Old 05-09-2014, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by mbw23air View Post

I've owned 15+ projectors and used some of them as everyday projectors with no problems. Where are you getting your info?

Thanks,
Mike
I wonder why you've gone through 15+ PJ's?rolleyes.gif
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post #1288 of 1314 Old 05-09-2014, 09:12 AM
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I wonder why you've gone through 15+ PJ's?rolleyes.gif

Well, I've had 2-480p models, 4-720p models, and 9-10 1080p models. None of them have quit working. In the past 5-6 years I have gone to a 2 projector setup where I would use one projector for a TV projector and a JVC projector for my movie only projector, works great. Also, I like upgrading and trying different projectors.....it's one of my vices. wink.gif

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post #1289 of 1314 Old 06-25-2014, 08:08 PM
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Just joined the 5020 club. Picked up a 5020ube-r from Visual Apex. I upgraded from an Epson 8350 that I had for about 4 years.


Upon first glance, it does look pretty incredible. Contrast and brightness seemed worlds better than the 8350 (although the bulb on my 8350 just died so I may be remembering the worst parts of it).


After a while though, I noticed that whenever I dealt with text anywhere (be it in the menus for the projector or the Xbox, DirecTV, etc), it seemed to be rather blurry. See the 2 attached examples (you'll have to click the thumbnails to see how bad it is). It almost gave me a headache looking at it, almost felt like that's what things are like if I take out my contacts. Those pictures are with a Canon 7d and 100L Macro on a tripod, 1/30s, ISO400, f/8 with MLU and a delayed shutter (in other words, no blur is from the camera itself).


Fiddled around quite a bit with focus on the projector as well as panel alignment, but it seems no matter what I do, nothing can fix it. I certainly don't remember text being like this on the 8350, so I don't think my expectations are really out of line. When I was screwing around with the alignment, all the test lines always seemed to have a halo around them as well.


Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I be calling VA or Epson for a replacement unit? For what it's worth, the box arrived pretty dinged up, as if it had suffered a drop somewhere during shipping.
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post #1290 of 1314 Old 06-26-2014, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
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...Fiddled around quite a bit with focus on the projector as well as panel alignment, but it seems no matter what I do, nothing can fix it. I certainly don't remember text being like this on the 8350, so I don't think my expectations are really out of line. When I was screwing around with the alignment, all the test lines always seemed to have a halo around them as well.
When trying the panel alignment, make sure you only use whole pixel shifts of the entire panel (that should avoid introducing any extra artifacts). To get a whole pixel shift make sure you only move the corners, and move all 4 corners of a given panel by the same amount which is a multiple of 8 steps (8 steps equals 1 pixel IIRC).
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