Mitsubishi HC7800D vs HC7900DW - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-10-2013, 01:06 PM - Thread Starter
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My Mitsu 3000 is close to fully-dead. It's been mostly-dead for a while but I've resurrected it several times. Sadly, its remaining days are few - too many melted pieces for me to keep it going. It has given me 25,000+ hours on one bulb... just joking... 25k hours on many many bulbs. But It is hard for me to stray from Mitsu since it has treated me so well.

So.... Mitsubishi HC7800D vs HC7900DW
Any thoughts? I know the 7800 is the older version but they seem very similar on paper. I can get the 7800 for $1750 including 2 pairs of glasses and the 7900 for $2000 without glasses. So add maybe another $150 for 2 pairs of glasses and it is about a $400 difference between the two.
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post #2 of 17 Old 01-11-2013, 02:59 AM
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Here's a comparison between them on japanese forum

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fbbs.kakaku.com%2Fbbs%2FK0000316595%2F%2315190829
Quote:
I watch Avatar in 3D compared to 7900 and LVP-HC7800.
Dedicated high-speed shutter 3D glasses can be used for 7900 7800 was also 7800.
(Wrong answer by the manufacturer at the time of the inquiry manufacturers angry (!))
Was not seen by the convenience of the environment on the day of viewing using general-purpose glasses from other manufacturers in 7900 (sorry).
Impression that there was a saw with a quality take advantage contour and was tailored towards 7800, the focus. I looked at the beautiful colors of 7800 people also clear shade color. I wonder if the optical system is making the difference? Maybe.
I did not see the video there is no time 2D, 7800 it also 2D and the story of the shop
Feeling the quality of tint is also clear, and things are even better focus.
7900 but I was still cheaper version of 7800. 3D glasses will be generic is available only advantage.

It looks like the successor of HC7800D is HC8000D, and HC7900DW is its yonger brother.
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post #3 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 05:53 AM - Thread Starter
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I found on projectorreviews:

HC7800D
Post Calibration: User "best" mode : 668 lumens
Brightest USABLE Mode of the HC7800D: 816 lumens

HC7900DW
Post Calibration: User "best" mode: 701 lumens
Brightest "Watchable" mode" 1112 lumens.

They state: "The HC7900DW calibrated, is fractionally brighter than the competing Panasonic and Epson LCD projectors, and also measured almost 5% brighter than last year's HC7800D".

So it looks like even though they have the same specs, the newer 7900 is 5% brighter calibrated and much brighter in maximum-brightness-and-still-be-watchable mode. For me it is worth the $400 to have the extra lumens for when I need them.
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 06:21 AM
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If I remember correctly the difference between the 7900 and the 8K was higher lumen output, better contrast due to an addition iris, and included an extra bulb... I've been down this rabbit hole and was dead set on the 8K until I started reviewing the optoma HD8300, Volk you have the Optoma right? Do you know how it compares to the 8K? I thought zombie mentioned a lack of sharpness with the Mitsu which is why I started looking at the Optoma.
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 08:54 AM
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Chris, I've got HD8300 refurb because it was $1K cheaper and also I was tired waiting for HC8000D.

I had no chance to compare them, but from what I know I'd choose Mitsubishi if the price is not taken into account.

I don't think there are reasons why HC8000D should be less sharp than HD8300 (same class, comparable optics I guess), while Mits most likely should have more contrast because of 4 irises (2 static, 1 manual, 1 dynamic). Dual variable iris is still a quite unique feature.
Also Mits dynamic Iris supposedly works better. Zombie says its virtually unnoticeable. HD8300 iris is good, but I still see it sometimes.
Also people said HC7800D was quieter than HD8300.

Also there are general considerations: HC8000D is Mitsubishi second attempt to make 3D DLP, and HD8300 is basically just a HD8200 with higher-power lamp and new firmware.
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 12:54 PM
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Good points, but let me interject.

Does FI work in 3D mode on the Optoma hd8300?
If FI works in 3D on the hd8300, then I would NOT BE LIKELY to take the Mits over a DLP with FI. FI is very important in 3D.

If the price were the same I MIGHT also take a Mits hc8000 new over an Optoma hd8300 refurb. The hc8000 does not have FI in 3D. Also, Zombie has specifically stated that much like the Mits hc4000, the hc8000 also has a focus uniformity issue in the lens, it is not as sharp as the w7000 and I assume not as sharp as the Optoma hd8300.

The reason I bought the Benq w7000 instead of the Optoma refurb is mainly 3D brightness and because I know FI works on the Benq in 3D. The Benq still has the edge over the others in 3d brightness, especially with my setup given that I have an HP screen.

I really think the blacks are bearable in 3D mode on the w7000 (I know it sounds dumb), but I mean let's just say MOST of the time they are bearable, because you can use the IRIS to get the brightness and white peak exactly right even as lamp ages.
So let's say on another PJ you have to put up with it being 20% too bright, this will make the black floor look worse for X hours, then if it gets too dim you will just lose the punch. The Benq has MAX range in all modes because of the service menu accessible IRIS that can be used like a manual IRIS, manual IRIS even works in 3D, and I've been tweaking the service menu to try to get the w7000 up even BRIGHTER in a 3D mode (haven't gotten there yet, but I'm working on it).

I am pretty sure (although not positive) that I can override some of the default 3D calibration settings in the SM to force a brighter 3D mode (potentially even to match the Epson), but like I said this is a work in progress and I'm sure there will be some green/blue side effect to the image. I probably will not have this completely figured out until my lamp ages enough to where I feel like actually doing it.

Overall, for 3D, the Benq w7000 is very good, do not run away due to blacks only. Also I think I MIGHT be able to get the DI working on the Benq in 3D mode if anyone cares, even though DB was disabled on the menu, I was able to fiddle in the SM and saw the IRIS working 3D mode, but it did not hold the setting (so I'll have to re-investigate).


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post #7 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 01:28 PM
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I really want to like the W7000, but with my setup i have a small light controlled room where 2D with sharpness and black levels override lumens and and remarkable 3D... not sure about the CFI in 3D, Volk may be able to comment there. I am now considering an all new approach... going with an exceptional 2D stationary unit with a smaller more portable 3D for table mount and to move outside this summer with friends... Would anyone be able to comment on a great 2D unit to double with an "acceptable" 3D unit with speakers and keep the budget at $3k? I've been looking at the JVC DLA-HD250 under Coder's recommendation page of his "best of the best" review, which by the way Coder very insightful, any chance for an updated version coming??? I know a lot of people looking forward to it!
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post #8 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 04:25 PM
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HD8300 has frame interpolation in 3D. But I personally don't find it important, I like motion the way it is, even in 3D.

Chris, you might also want to look at XV-Z30000. It has everything HC8000D has, and there is a fantastic deal on groupon currently, 2500$ for the pj + 4 glasses and a mount http://www.groupon.com/deals/gg-sharp-projector-mount-and-glasses

Art from ProjectorReviews has mentioned that he liked XV-Z30000 more than HD8300. http://www.projectorreviews.com/sharp/xv-z30000/
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post #9 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 04:40 PM
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You don't find it important, you are the first then out of most of us...

Watch certain things in 3D and motion is horrid and jittery on 120hz panels, I don't see why someone can say it is not important for a 120hz projector. 3D motion @ 24p without FI looks horrid, like all flickery and missing frames. If I showed you what I watched on my Benq without FI (Open Season 3d) and then with FI, I know you would prefer FI, there is no question in my mind that anyone would, it sticks out that bad. Like I'm not being obsessive about it, it really sticks out without FI.

It looks better on the Epson than most projectors look even without FI due to the faster panels, but on 120hz panels is a different story.


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post #10 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 05:33 PM
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"certain things in 3D and motion is horrid and jittery on 120hz panels"

Maybe, but for me literally everything with FI look artificial, "soap-opera like". For me jitter is a lesser evil. Dont want to argue, its just a personal preference thing.
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post #11 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 06:31 PM
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I agree fi looks bad in 2d, but in 3d I cannot live without it....


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
- Quick Peak at the new upcoming calculator
**Current Projector Calculator** -- http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com

Coder's Top Projector Picks of 2012 --http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....

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post #12 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 07:21 PM
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Just pulled the trigger on the sharp.... Couldn't beat that deal, new unit with 4 pair of glasses and a ceiling mount...
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post #13 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 07:21 PM
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post #14 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 07:22 PM
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Couldn't find the X to delete the post... great...
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post #16 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 07:25 PM
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Frigging iPad triple posting on me.
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post #17 of 17 Old 01-14-2013, 09:38 PM
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You can delete your own posts by hitting the X at the bottom of the post.


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
- Quick Peak at the new upcoming calculator
**Current Projector Calculator** -- http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com

Coder's Top Projector Picks of 2012 --http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....

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