OPTOMA HD25 HD25LV new budget 2D 3D DLP FULL projector - Page 21 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #601 of 657 Old 07-28-2014, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenhdtv View Post
chamberc, it's a good news / bad news situation - the projector has plenty of brightness for the 21 ft distance but the zoom lens can only squeeze the image down to a 160" size. Use this calculator on projectorcentral.com to see your options - http://www.projectorcentral.com/Opto...ulator-pro.htm
oh man. thanks for the heads up. basically there are no affordable projectors that can project a 100 inch 16:9 image from 21 feet. bummer, but thanks for the info.
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post #602 of 657 Old 07-28-2014, 03:21 PM
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chamberc, what prevents you from moving the projector closer or using a bigger screen? Most people who project outdoors go much bigger - see http://www.backyardtheater.com/ .
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post #603 of 657 Old 07-28-2014, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by kenhdtv View Post
chamberc, what prevents you from moving the projector closer or using a bigger screen? Most people who project outdoors go much bigger - see http://www.backyardtheater.com/ .
a pool is the main obstacle. i suppose i could try the yard master 2 135 inch but that's getting pretty big.
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post #604 of 657 Old 07-28-2014, 03:47 PM
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chamberc, funny, I thought you might say that. I built a 200" screen for our pool back in 2007 and had a similar problem and had to use the projectorcentral search tool to find a projector with the right zoom (~34 ft distance). Haven't used the screen in a couple of years and thought about the HD25-LV because the brightness and picture quality would be much, much better but the calculator says the projector would have to be 26 ft away which would require a small table near the edge of the pool versus the mount I have on the side of the house.


135 in. isn't too big if everyone is sitting 20 ft from the screen.


Backyard screen = http://backyardtheater.com/forums/in...ic,1434.0.html
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post #605 of 657 Old 07-28-2014, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenhdtv View Post
chamberc, funny, I thought you might say that. I built a 200" screen for our pool back in 2007 and had a similar problem and had to use the projectorcentral search tool to find a projector with the right zoom (~34 ft distance). Haven't used the screen in a couple of years and thought about the HD25-LV because the brightness and picture quality would be much, much better but the calculator says the projector would have to be 26 ft away which would require a small table near the edge of the pool versus the mount I have on the side of the house.


135 in. isn't too big if everyone is sitting 20 ft from the screen.


Backyard screen = http://backyardtheater.com/forums/in...ic,1434.0.html
Nice setup! yes, I'm going to have to find some projector to do the distance vs. size I'm forced to work with.
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post #606 of 657 Old 08-02-2014, 01:09 PM
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I've finally worked out a plan where I can place the projector 17 feet from the other side of the pool (mounted on the patio eve) from a 135 inch Yard Master 2. Should have it all delivered soon! Thanks guys!
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post #607 of 657 Old 08-03-2014, 01:20 AM
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Question

Hi everybody:

My name is Cristhian, I'm from Peru and I have an Optoma HD25 since last year. Unfortunately the projector has a big issue, when I turn the projector on and after two minutes, the image disappears but not at all, it was like when there is no input plugged to the projector but in my case, the image was there. You can see how it looks like in the attached file. Another thing, at the beginning, sometimes the image was flickering and I was able to see the image normal for a few seconds.

I hope you can give an idea about what is happening, I'm worried about this issue.

PD.
1.- The wheel color is not broken
2.- I've always had the projector unplugged
3.- Here, in Lima, the humidity is 95% and now we are in winter
4.- The lamp has about 337 hours

Thanks in advance.
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post #608 of 657 Old 08-04-2014, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chamberc View Post
I've finally worked out a plan where I can place the projector 17 feet from the other side of the pool (mounted on the patio eve) from a 135 inch Yard Master 2. Should have it all delivered soon! Thanks guys!
chamberc, congrats! One other tip to help with image quality outside - try to block/turn off any ambient light such as patio lights or indoor lights that might shine on the screen. Moonlight can be dealt with by picking movie nights close to the new moon cycle versus full moon. If you have a nearby street light that's a problem, you can temporarily turn it off if it has a light sensor within reach (using a ladder) by taping a flashlight that shines into the sensor which makes the street light think it's daytime Hope you have fun with the new setup!

The last time I used my setup was a few years ago in November when we had family over to watch ELF - it was ~55'F outside so some were drinking hot chocolate with their popcorn.
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post #609 of 657 Old 08-04-2014, 08:59 AM
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Christhian, that does look like a problem inside the projector. In case it's moisture/humidity related, what happens if you leave the projector on for an hour? If you have some moisture inside it, the heat of the lamp might eventually dry up the moisture and return it to normal operation.
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post #610 of 657 Old 08-04-2014, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenhdtv View Post
Christhian, that does look like a problem inside the projector. In case it's moisture/humidity related, what happens if you leave the projector on for an hour? If you have some moisture inside it, the heat of the lamp might eventually dry up the moisture and return it to normal operation.

Hi kenhdtv:
That could be the problem. Meanwhile, I've left the projector plugged. Tonight, I will turn it on and see what happens. If that didn't work, I will leave it on for al long period of time in order to dry up the humidity.

Thanks for your advices.
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post #611 of 657 Old 08-04-2014, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cristhian View Post
Hi kenhdtv:
That could be the problem. Meanwhile, I've left the projector plugged. Tonight, I will turn it on and see what happens. If that didn't work, I will leave it on for al long period of time in order to dry up the humidity.

Thanks for your advices.

I've tried both of them and I haven't had any luck. I left the projector turned on and the issue came after 10 minutes.

Last edited by Cristhian; 08-06-2014 at 05:29 PM.
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post #612 of 657 Old 08-10-2014, 10:30 AM
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Christhian, what happens if you leave the projector on all day while it's hooked up to an active video source like ESPN or anything that will keep the bulb on for 8+ hours? This would ensure any moisture has completely dried up.

You may actually a weak solder joint on the internal circuit board that functions properly while the board is cool but as it heats up, the board flexes some and the weak solder joint opens/fails. Something like this would obviously require servicing/repair. If you have the projector ceiling mounted, you could change the thermodynamics by taking the projector down and flipping it right side up on a table to see if it still fails after 10 minutes - it's a long shot but it might work for longer that 10 minutes.
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post #613 of 657 Old 08-10-2014, 02:26 PM
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What's the typical production run, in months, for Optoma? Just curious because I see the new price dropping below $900 at Amazon. If I can get one new with warranty for around $750, I'd seriously consider getting a 25LV for a dedicated 3D projector. The lens shift of the Epson would allow me to mount them side by side.
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post #614 of 657 Old 08-24-2014, 05:29 AM
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Good morning,
I finally got around to getting onto the forum after buying my unit about 2 months ago and I am in the process so
of searching for some settings. I did want to write in and relay my thoughts on this pj vs. my previous Mitsu. HC4000, which was destroyed by a nearby lightning strike. To sum it up, the Optoma bests the Mitsu in the following areas:
Blacks-darker
Shadow detail-the ability to view dimly lit scenes and discern objects in shadows (this area was poor with the Mitsu)
Brightness-the brighter pic helps with brighter room and performs better on my high contrast screen
Remote-having a lighted button remote is a plus for sure
Just some thoughts....if anyone has links to settings, that would be greatly appreciated. I hope to get more involved in the forum again with this new pj.
Regards, Kevin
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post #615 of 657 Old 08-24-2014, 07:16 AM
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Kevin, have you tried my latest settings below from my post back in May (post#568, page 19)?


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post #616 of 657 Old 08-24-2014, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenhdtv View Post
Kevin, have you tried my latest settings below from my post back in May (post#568, page 19)?


thanks much....I didn't come across these yet but another I already entered. I am going to compare these later tonite. I have a gray screen and my bulb has less than 100 hrs so I can do a comparison. There seems to be consensus that the dynamic black should be off for the best pic.
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post #617 of 657 Old 08-30-2014, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunga's Revenge View Post
thanks much....I didn't come across these yet but another I already entered. I am going to compare these later tonite. I have a gray screen and my bulb has less than 100 hrs so I can do a comparison. There seems to be consensus that the dynamic black should be off for the best pic.
Ken,
Your settings are spot on...much better than the previous ones I found on another site. Football, movies, and TV all look superb. Thanks again
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post #618 of 657 Old 08-30-2014, 07:07 PM
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Kevin, glad to hear they improved your pic. I initially tried a high contrast gray screen but switched to a white one from BestBuy because my gray one sparkled which was distracting. The HD25-LV was bright enough during the day (in BRIGHT mode) to use the white screen. At night I switch to USER mode (calibrated settings) for movie watching.
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post #619 of 657 Old 08-30-2014, 09:38 PM
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I'm new to this forum, and appreciate any input you may have.

I recently bought this projector. It's cool. Great image. However I have one major issue.

My whole setup goes through a receiver, the Sony STR-DN840. So my DirecTV, DVD player, and ROKU, go to the receiver, then out to the projector. When I used this setup with my flatscreen TV it worked great. Unfortunately with the projector the ROKU outputs a green image. The image is there, I can see the movie, but it's completely green and unwatchable.

I understand this is likely an HDMI handshake issue, but I can't solve it.

I have tried multiple HDMI cables, every port, turned it on and off, and tried all the different settings but I can't figure it out. The ROKU image is always green. At first I was convinced it was the Roku, so I ordered a Chromecast. Same thing...it's green. This is very frustrating. I want to stream movies on the projector but i need my Roku or Chromecast to do that. Any idea on how I can solve this?
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post #620 of 657 Old 09-02-2014, 08:34 PM
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anyonebutme, what happens when you connect the Roku directly to the projector's HDMI port (bypassing your Sony receiver)?
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post #621 of 657 Old 12-13-2014, 08:28 PM
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Have any of you been able to compare the HD25-LV to the HD26 or HD141X?
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post #622 of 657 Old 12-15-2014, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenhdtv View Post
Kevin, have you tried my latest settings below from my post back in May (post#568, page 19)?


I just got the HD25-LV to replace my 3 year old 3010 as it was getting dimmer and the cross-talk is flaring up.

Absolutely impressed with HD25-LV in 3D both in brightness (even in ECO), sharpness and zero cross talk. Now i know what I have ben missing in the last 3 years

However in 2D the picture is too bright on my 150" (Matt white 1.1 gain) even in ECO mode. Is there a way to turn the brightness down? A

Also are there any calibration settings I should try?

BTW I was in two minds between this and BenQ W1070 which is touted for its superior color lumens. But I did not find anything lacking with the OOB of HD25-LV and also I am worried that with BenQ I will be facing the low lumen limitation I am hitting with my 3010 due to lamp dimming. Am I missing a lot by not trying out 1070?

BTW I got the SanSonic DLP-link glasses and they are excellent. Am I missing a lot by not going for the RF glasses?
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post #623 of 657 Old 12-15-2014, 05:27 PM
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The table of numbers above are my latest calibration settings - just enter them into the USER mode settings. I use the BRIGHT mode during the day and then switch to USER at night (USER mode is dimmer than BRIGHT and the colors are better). I don't watch 3D so I don't have any 3D calibration settings. Regarding the 3D glasses, I vaguely remember reading that people preferred the Optoma RF glasses over the DLPlink kind saying the RF version had a brighter picture.


Regarding the 1070, I never tried it. I think people were happy with either one, with the HD25-LV being the brighter of the two.


Here's the link to my current settings - http://www.avsforum.com/photopost/da...4401df_s1.jpeg
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post #624 of 657 Old 12-15-2014, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falafala View Post
I just got the HD25-LV to replace my 3 year old 3010 as it was getting dimmer and the cross-talk is flaring up.

Absolutely impressed with HD25-LV in 3D both in brightness (even in ECO), sharpness and zero cross talk. Now i know what I have ben missing in the last 3 years

However in 2D the picture is too bright on my 150" (Matt white 1.1 gain) even in ECO mode. Is there a way to turn the brightness down? A

Also are there any calibration settings I should try?

BTW I was in two minds between this and BenQ W1070 which is touted for its superior color lumens. But I did not find anything lacking with the OOB of HD25-LV and also I am worried that with BenQ I will be facing the low lumen limitation I am hitting with my 3010 due to lamp dimming. Am I missing a lot by not trying out 1070?

BTW I got the SanSonic DLP-link glasses and they are excellent. Am I missing a lot by not going for the RF glasses?
I never used DLP-link glasses, only RF glasses. I have read that due to the sync flash, the DLP-link image is dimmer than RF. Also, it's easier to lose sync with DLP-link glasses.
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post #625 of 657 Old 12-16-2014, 10:37 PM
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[quote=kenhdtv;26834634]Kevin, have you tried my latest settings below from my post back in May (post#568, page 19)?




Will these work for the optoma hd25e... Thanks
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post #626 of 657 Old 12-18-2014, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_R_STL View Post
I never used DLP-link glasses, only RF glasses. I have read that due to the sync flash, the DLP-link image is dimmer than RF. Also, it's easier to lose sync with DLP-link glasses.
I agree that RF is better than DLP-Link. I have never lost sync with my RF glasses, nor have I needed to reverse the polarity at the beginning. I used DLP-Link glasses with my previous projector (Optoma HD66), and I would occasionally lose sync on very bright scenes and often had to reverse the polarity at the beginning (not a big deal). I've had this projector for a year now and just love it (I use it exclusively for 3D).
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post #627 of 657 Old 12-22-2014, 09:47 AM
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I finally pulled the trigger on the 25-LV as a dedicated 3D projector. The Epson 5030UB is great for most of my viewing, but nothing beats a DLP with the LV's brightness level, and RF 3D. I've been missing the 3D since I auditioned it last year. I've spent a lot of time tweaking and trying to reduce the crosstalk in the 5030, but that's the nature of LCD vs. DLP. I did a lot of research before coming back to it. The European Optoma HD36 sounds good, but I couldn't risk international shipping from an unknown vendor on a $1000+ purchase. Much is made of the RGB/RGB color wheel in BenQ and Optoma's "cinema" models, but Amazon reviews of projectors that have them, still mention rainbows. For 3D, white lumens are crucial, because of the darker nature of the 3D image, and the polarized glasses. So in the end, given the price (VApex is shipping for $779 right now w/a generic mount), and the inherent brightness edge of the 340 watt bulb, I believe that the HD25-LV has the best 3D performance for the buck right now.
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post #628 of 657 Old 12-22-2014, 12:33 PM
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Can someone comment on the fan noise of this compared to a 141x, 131xe or a HD26?
Also, aside from the extra brightness, does this have any advantage over the HD26? I sold the 131xe and loved it, got the 141x and the fan is pretty loud and I took it back and now, I'm trying to figure out my next move. Thanks for any input.
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post #629 of 657 Old 01-08-2015, 06:06 PM
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Trying to decide between this and Benq 1070,but read online that the Optoma hd 25 lv has more image noise. It's that true, because I didn't read anybody complaining out talking about it on here?
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post #630 of 657 Old 01-09-2015, 03:39 PM
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Folks I upgraded to HD25-LV from 3 year old 3010. And am just loving the brightness, pop, sharpness and ZERO-crosstalk 3D on my 150". I know people say it sucks in calibrated lumens, but I did not find anything wrong with the colors OOB (yet to try kenhdtv's settings) and now realize I cant live without the brightness (especially in 3D). May be ignorance is bliss. BTW I tried both DLP-link and RF glasses and the black levels are night and day better with RF.

When I display the "grid test pattern", i see that the grid is not perfectly focused even though I got the menu text to focus. I tried two units and its the same issue. Is this normal?

Should I use any test grid from external content? If so what would you recommend?

However even with this focus issue, HD25-LV is much better than 3010's soft focus and I certainly notice a marked upgrade in sharpness and pop compared to LCD. But I am worried if I am missing out on eve better performance due to this less than ideal focus issue on my HD25-LV.
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