Epson 8100 - replaced bulb and now Pink / Blue bands - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 65 Old 02-18-2013, 09:47 AM - Thread Starter
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background:
Own 3 projectors / (incl. epson 8100 purchased in 7/2010 and epson 3010) Sanyo hasnt blown despite bulb hours indicating 3500hrs when I purchased and since then 2500hrs --> I suspect the bulb wasnt really "on" for the 3500hrs, but that the projector itself was in the setup it was at. Epson 3010 at ~1500hrs no problems yet. 5yr BBY extended warranty on the OTHER two projectors... this one I just had the mfr. warranty though.

Epson 8100 always run in eco mode, max ventilation on all sides except "bottom". I always keep it in eco mode even with the lights on because it's only on a tiny 106" screen that's the old DaLite Hi-Power material, mostly for personal usage of PC/TV. First bulb blew (pop/etc) at under 1400 hrs and ~11months, second one at 2400 hours and 29months. Epson replaced both bulbs -- this second as a one-time replacement as its past 24months. This second bulb did not "blow" -- by this I mean it's not discolored/etc and the projector did not shut off while it was on. It just didn't power up and lit the bulb indicator light. It looks like the post holding the filament just came unglued(?!) and the post fell over. Here's an image of the lamp:





No issues with the projected image before lamp replacement. After replacing lamp there is a bright red/magenta band on about the top 2-3% of the image and a bright blue/cyan band on the bottom 2-3% of the image. This makes the projector fairly useless for any video consumption. (Only possible workaround I can think of is if I find a way to overlay a black bar on the top and bottom portions of the screen while my PC is used for TV or movies)

Is this at all possibly a lamp problem or is it damage to the projector LCD(s) itself ? As I'm not at ~30 months I thin I'd probably be out of luck of epson fixing it if its a projector problem..

From various searching I've found limited references to possibly being heat-damage to the LCDs. This doesnt seem to make sense completely though as the image was fine before the lamp failed.... unless the projector was heating it up while trying to turn on (which the epson tech on the phone insisted I do again even though after removing the lamp I could SEE the post was fallen over).

Any suggestions on anything to try to attempt to fix the issue?
Thanks in advance for any input.
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post #2 of 65 Old 02-18-2013, 11:11 AM
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The blue and pink stripe are common with your base design. I had a 6100 it developed it by 1600 hours, and slowly got worse and worse. As I understand it maybe a diffusers or something else in the LCD optics getting burnt, it is not the bulb. There might be a way to fix it but it is probably not worth the money.

When you changed your 2400 hour bulb you got a big jump in brightness, perhaps it was there before but not bright enough to catch your attention.

Try and zoom you pj out a little bit more, overscan if you will, such that the affected areas are off the screen.

Good luck.
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post #3 of 65 Old 02-18-2013, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmannth View Post

When you changed your 2400 hour bulb you got a big jump in brightness, perhaps it was there before but not bright enough to catch your attention.
This was not the case. I was using the PJ alternately in living/dynamic mode when room lights were on. No problem at top or bottom of image with old bulb. With new bulb, it's very evident even with Theatre Dark II (I think that's the name of it.. would have to verify later tonight) mode. I never change from XV color even with room light on with a newer bulb, as It's only a tiny 106" screen and it has the ~2.8 gain Hi Power material and I view from a very close angle from the projector (it projects from slightly behind/above me). It's particularly bad with the red/pink section.

The only time this damage could have occurred then if it's damage to the projector itself would be the 2 or 3 times that the projector attempted turning on after the lamp "failed" -- the last time at the insistence of the Epson Tech's standard troubleshooting script even though viewing the lamp it was clear the post holding the filament had fallen out/fallen over. The projector would not spin up the fans high but would take over 1 minute before it decided to give up and turn on the "lamp replace" light. Seems like a poor design flaw.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmannth View Post

Try and zoom you pj out a little bit more, overscan if you will, such that the affected areas are off the screen.
Good luck.
This won't work as it's a pull-down screen and the casing is white. Therefore, pink would show up there... Possibly if I get a program that can overlay a black bar on the top portion of my screen on top of video then it would work, as it seems to be a problem only with not displaying white/color and black still looks black.
I'll add a photo showing the magenta/cyan banding later tonight. The magenta is the more egregious which completely destroys the projector for most usages....

I guess its just unlucky that their faulty lamp would kill the projector when its just over 5 months out of warranty. And I dug up my receipt and I had used Amex which only gives 1 year extended warranty but only if the mfr. warranty is a max of 1 year... should have used a Visa instead (which gives extra 1yr on top of a 2yr mfr warranty). I may still try to see if epson will do anything but that's probably doubtful....
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post #4 of 65 Old 02-18-2013, 12:09 PM
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Sounds like a god diagnosis kmann', but when you say "common with your base design", the 8100 has as much or more in common with the 8350 as with the 6100, is this something folks are seeing with the 8350 as well? It's certainly been out long enough
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post #5 of 65 Old 02-18-2013, 12:54 PM
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The 8100 was not a giant leap over the 6100, nor is the 8350 for that matter, the base designs are related (yes they are tweaked a bit not a whole different beast). I am sure the 6100 and 8100 shared common parts. You don't really see any about the pink / blue issue for the 8350 I guess they changed out that part from the build, for sure Epson knows all about it and lost alot of money replacing pjs under warranty because of it for a few years.

I have seen reports of the pink and blue lines on the 6100 6500ub, 8100, 8500ub for sure. You see it on used projectors for sale a decent amount of the time. I am not an expert with the issue I just had a projector that had it and did a bit of research.
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post #6 of 65 Old 02-18-2013, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the actual Blue and Pink Bands: (For both of these photos, I have the projector in eco-mode and X.V. Color setting, and room lighting on -- two 100W equiv bulbs. The wall looks dark in the photo only due to phone camera auto white-balance adjusting for the bright projection image.)

Browser Open:

Only White screen:



This issue ONLY cropped up as the other bulb died (Probably the 2-3 times the projector tried to turn on and took over 60 seconds before lighting the "lamp" led. I had the projector in a higher light output mode (non-eco ) for the last month or so because it was dimmer and periodically (<5% of the time) in Living Room mode when room lighting on, and it's very visible in any image displayed -- I would have noticed it even if it was only 1/10th as present before the last bulb failure. I would suggest be very careful if your PJ lights the lamp light, DO NOT attempt to power it back on multiple times. Unfortunately that was the Epson Phone Tech's instructions.... frown.gif

Thanks kmannth for input and any other input anyone has would be appreciated.... I think my last resort may be I may try to see if Epson can do anything (of course its out of 24mo so probably not...) I should have purchased the new 8350 last year I could have for ~$750 and sold this one at that time when I bought the 3010.

Maybe I could swap this one for the one I have in the family/theatre room because I use the wall (150" screen options were higher budget and the wall is pretty close to a matte white) and a somewhat adjustable frame I constructed myself with which I could mask off that portion of the image. Downsides to this would be no 3D in there which is why I spent the $2k for 3010+3d glasses and also I would lose the additional light output of the 3010 for the larger image in there, while having a crazy bright image lighting up my bedroom even on the 3010's lowest light mode since its only 106" screen and it has 2.8Gain.
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post #7 of 65 Old 02-18-2013, 08:09 PM
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The bands are usually caused by the PLC moving slightly out of position. This movement can be minute, but it causes pink and blue, or yellow and blue bands depending on the type of projector.
I have a panasonic that had yellow and blue bands. The shop diagnosis was (of course) new LCD panels. I read up on this and found an obscure post about this. Opened the projector and with my thumb pushed the first (after the lamp) and the PLC glass element firmly back down with a sudden CLICK.

Perfect white screen again.

I believe this is exactly the same issue, as the PLC and it's lens sits just after the lamp and gets very hot. It polarizes the light before going through the light path.
The heating and cooling cycles make it move.

Please.... do not mess with this if you are not comfortable with opening and cleaning LCD projectors. But this SHOULD be the fix for the epsons as well since all LCD's
use the same basic elements.

The OTHER, but less likely possible case may be the lamp itself being slightly out of alignment in relation to the PLC and the input lens, causing the same problem.

Good luck with this. I know I can fix my own projectors, but I hope this helps out in some way with all the Epsons out of warranty out there.

Oh yeah.... white gloves are mandatory! DO NOT touch any elements with your bare fingers!

DO NOT DO THIS AND BLAME ME IF YOU MESS UP YOUR PROJECTOR!!! I have done this with 100% success, but I am a certified tech.

Edit: I found this page: https://sites.google.com/site/epsonpowerlite5500c/home

Same basic idea, it shows clearly the PLC and how it shifts, etc. And how to fix it.
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post #8 of 65 Old 02-18-2013, 09:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinman View Post



Good luck with this. I know I can fix my own projectors, but I hope this helps out in some way with all the Epsons out of warranty out there.

Oh yeah.... white gloves are mandatory! DO NOT touch any elements with your bare fingers!

DO NOT DO THIS AND BLAME ME IF YOU MESS UP YOUR PROJECTOR!!! I have done this with 100% success, but I am a certified tech.

Edit: I found this page: https://sites.google.com/site/epsonpowerlite5500c/home

Same basic idea, it shows clearly the PLC and how it shifts, etc. And how to fix it.

Thanks for the additional information Tinman! I will look over it -- not sure yet if I'll open the PJ. At the least I will first try re-seating the lamp (I think this would addressing your second, less-possible case --- or do you mean the lamp itself would have a problem that wouldnt be apparent by looking at it or screwing it back in again? I'm trying to understand what you were referring to with the lamp being misaligned). I am just waiting for the projector to cool before doing this. As I think about it now this might seem possible since I am sure this issue did not occur gradually, but somewhere between the last time I powered off the projector (before the startup attempts that lit the "lamp" indicator led) and turned it on with the new lamp in place. Although, granted, i guess the projector could have been jostled when I transported the projector between rooms in the process between installing the new lamp and could have resulted in something inside the projector moving out of position. I try to be careful but make mistakes... (Fried a trace on a circuit board first thing this morning by accidentally shorting a battery to ground..... Had to get the multimeter probe in through a small hole in the case and of course the case was ground smile.gif )

I have an additional question about the "white gloves" as I'm not a projector tech. Do they just need to block the oil or have other properties? Most readily available gloves for me would be some purple nitrile gloves which I will grab a pair tomorrow if no change noted when re-seating the lamp.

Thanks again for input.
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post #9 of 65 Old 02-19-2013, 06:54 AM
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The Lamp in the picture is cooked. It has dimpled and distorted. The top and bottom bands MAY have something to do with the integrator or condenser lenses that sits after the end of the lamp. You may be able to reach in and move it slightly or turn the unit over and shake it up and down and hope it falls into place. If not you will have to open the unit and put it in its proper place. The white gloves are used to prevent your body oils from getting on the arc chamber and to prevent Mercury from getting on your hands. You can touch the lamps outer reflector all day long with your hands but NEVER touch the center post or the actual lamp element itself. It looks like this is a sealed lamp but I can't be sure. I'm guessing that something in the light path is slightly out of alignment or the lamp is not quite seating properly in the projector. It might just be a case of reaching in with your finger and giggling the lens in the lamp chamber with the lamp out.

Good Luck

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post #10 of 65 Old 02-19-2013, 07:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohanna View Post

It might just be a case of reaching in with your finger and giggling the lens in the lamp chamber with the lamp out.
Good Luck
Bohanna
I tried this last night along with removing and carefully reseating the lamp to ensure I had it screwed in properly and was unsuccessful in resolving the red band... so that means probably will need a complete dissassembly unless epson wants to fix it at 30months (low chance, but I havent called them yet), or can the bulb assembly itself be out of alignment and cause the issue? I can't think a way to test that last possibility unless I find somewhere in town selling projectors willing to swap a bulb out for a few minutes for a fee.

I partially disassembled just to see the difficulty and was fairly easy to get the outer casing off without any signs of entry but decided not to disassemble anything inside at this time. On the plus side, they made the projector easy to disassemble without damaging anything and there are no tamper-proof seals, etc and it holds together rather well.
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post #11 of 65 Old 02-21-2013, 07:47 AM
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If you took off the top and moved the diffusior or the integrator lens around and that didn't help I'm thinking it may have to be serviced by a professional. I don;t think that it could be from the lamp being out of alignment unless it's WAY off the mark.

here is a video of the narrow beam that a uhp lamp projects to show you that after the narrow raw beam leaves the lamp it gets diffused and funneled around the projector. I guessing that the miss alignment is somewhere else.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87vGWMSTfEI


Good Luck

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post #12 of 65 Old 02-21-2013, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I did not move the diffuser or lenses yet. I opened the top but did not take it apart (have to unscrew the circuit board, etc, to get to the lenses. I merely tried reseating the lamp (remove/re-screw). I haven't called epson yet I plan to call them tonight maybe and see if they will do anything before I attempt a self-repair. I was also looking at options locally to see if I could find another bulb to test in it, but no one I know had a PJ that uses the same bulb.
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post #13 of 65 Old 02-23-2013, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Update: I took the image machine apart. I found there were no "foam pads" like in the walkthrough for the other projector that you linked, Tinman. I realized after I put it all back together, the one lens(es) I did not open was the one where I think the shutter is (?) that is enclosed separately.

It seemed that instead of foam, most of the lenses/glass were fixed (glue? plastic?), and there were some that you could move around but had no previous foam pads.

Can you annotate that picture you posted with which specific lens was the "PLC" lens?

Thanks,
Mark
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post #14 of 65 Old 02-23-2013, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnEE View Post

Update: I took the image machine apart. I found there were no "foam pads" like in the walkthrough for the other projector that you linked, Tinman. I realized after I put it all back together, the one lens(es) I did not open was the one where I think the shutter is (?) that is enclosed separately.

It seemed that instead of foam, most of the lenses/glass were fixed (glue? astic?), and there were some that you could move around but had no previous foam pads.

Can you annotate that picture you posted with which specific lens was the "PLC" lens?

Thanks,
Mark

Can you post a few clear pictures of the inside of your projector? I can ID the lens from there specifically.

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post #15 of 65 Old 02-23-2013, 10:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Sure here are the photos I took. There are duplicates of a couple because they're not the best photos and not sure which is clearer (just used phone's camera) . It should expand to a full image if you click on it.

There were also no foam pads on the plastic cover that exposes the lenses when you remove it (I didn't take a picture of that plastic cover) -- but from that example other projector it had foam pads throughout.

Projector, outer housing plastic removed:

Circuit board unscrewed, all JST connectors except along left side removed, ribbon cables to buttons on outer case removed, ribbon cables to 3LCDs disconnected, circuit board "folded over" to side

Before removing cover

Close-up images of right half or left half with the lenses:




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post #16 of 65 Old 02-24-2013, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnEE View Post

Sure here are the photos I took. There are duplicates of a couple because they're not the best photos and not sure which is clearer (just used phone's camera) . It should expand to a full image if you click on it.

There were also no foam pads on the plastic cover that exposes the lenses when you remove it (I didn't take a picture of that plastic cover) -- but from that example other projector it had foam pads throughout.



The problem should be at the rightmost lens, it's apparently where the auto iris is sitting. The faceted lens just to the left of the metal shield. There may also be another lens to the right of that just after the bulb. Those 2 lenses usually cause a misalignment of the light beam going through the optics. It looks like you have to unscrew the auto iris to get to them. Then press down firmly on each one to make sure they are fully seated in their slots.

It's hard to see, but both lenses may actually be on the left of the iris. They are multi faceted. just to the right of the curved lens.
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post #17 of 65 Old 02-24-2013, 08:18 AM
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I was going to suggest the same thing. Some people call it the fisheye lens. I'm guessing that the problem lies in this area ,,, one of the lenses has somehow loosened and is a bit out of place
MAKE sure IF YOU remove the other polorazing glass filters for cleaning you put them back in the same place and facing the same DIRECTION. If you do remove them do them for cleaning do it one at a time and put one back before you do the next Also pay attention to which side of the glass the polorizing filter goes on so you can put them back facing the same way.



Bohanna ,
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post #18 of 65 Old 02-24-2013, 09:01 AM - Thread Starter
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ok, thanks! Not sure If I will re-open the projector and try that. I had figured that was the auto-iris and it has a motor and a gear going to it (barely visible in 2nd picture). Thanks again for all the input.
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post #19 of 65 Old 03-20-2013, 06:15 AM
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Hi folks,

I own an Epson 8500 UB, and this issue has reared its ugly head after about 3 years of ownership. My original lamp failed at about 2,000 hrs, which in and of itself isn't horrendous even if it is only about half of advertised lamp life. However, in hindsight, this issue started when the earlier lamp must have started to fail, and was perhaps related to the projector heating up more than it should.

Just before the lamp went really dim, I noticed is that the fan started to be less effective. It started to make a clicking sound unless I removed the air filter -- which you can't do long term for obvious reasons. But that told me that the fan couldn't pull enough air through the air filter to properly cool the lamp and other internals.

I replaced the fan with one that has a higher CFM to add more cooling power. Also more noisy, but whatever. Trying to make a >$2,000 appliance last more than 3 years trumps a little extra fan noise.

When I replaced the fan, I took the opportunity to look for any pieces that were visibly un-seated, but I never went beyond the bottom circuit board -- not having the nerve to take the 3 LCD ribbon connectors off the lower circuit board. Behind that circuit board is where I would have found the optics assembly, according to the pictures above. Thanks for those!

Net-net, I have a new lamp that gives me good brightness, but unusable top and bottom parts of the screen. Watching 2.35/1 content is wonderful, because the top and bottom are hidden. But we use this device for everyday TV watching and gaming.

I contacted Epson to get a list of authorized service dealers in order to see how much it would cost to get a proper diagnosis. I'd happily spring a couple hundred bucks if I can get 5 more years out of this thing. Their response, paraphrased, looked like this: "here is the list of service centers in Canada, but this issue is known, is related to a defective optics assembly, and would cost more to repair than buying a new projector. We have a loyalty program if you would like to buy a new projector".

Thinking this is their planned (and hopefully fair) answer for this clear manufacturing issue, I enquired further about this loyalty program. It seems as though I got about $80 off MSRP on a ~$1200 projector. Underwhelming is an understatement. Insulting is more like it.

Here's a link to a statement by Art, the well-known projector reviewer, after he contacted Epson upon multiple reports from owners who had this issue occur during the warranty period: http://www.projectorreviews.com/blog/2010/03/08/epson-home-cinema-8500ub-projector-9500ub-projector-redline-update/

So I'm going to push this issue. I buy Epson in part because they have a reputation of standing behind their products. This is now unusable, and this is not acceptable after 3 years. I'm ok spending some money because this is out of warranty, but offering me $80 off a lower-end model is not even close to a fair response.

Thought I'd share my experience. If you're interested, I'm happy to report back here after I've spoken with Epson.
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post #20 of 65 Old 04-02-2013, 10:41 AM
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Quick update. I tried Epson twice, but no luck. My only recourse as a consumer is to not buy Epson again ...
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post #21 of 65 Old 07-25-2013, 08:36 AM
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Thanks to everyone for this informative thread. I just encountered the same issue with my 34 month old 8500UB. First lamp failed at 1096 hrs. When replaced there wasn't any issue with banding. The second lamp "popped with a loud bang" at 1946 hrs. The projector immediately shutdown (retracted screen) and showed a flashing red "bulb" light. Regrettably, I wasn't watching the screen to see if there was an accompanying light flash associated with the event. I waited close to an hour before removing power and changing the lamp (to allow for cooling).

After replacing the lamp and filter, cyan and magenta bands were clearly visible at the top and bottom of the screen respectively. It would appear that when the lamp failed, the event either sent an extremely bright light or intense heat pulse through the optical path permanently damaging some component (LCDs?). Had this lamp failed without subjecting the projector to the effect(s) of this catastrophic failure mode, I am betting the projector would not have been damaged.

I contacted Epson and they referred me to an authorized service center in the Los Angeles area. Their quote to fix was $900 in parts plus labor... Clearly a non-starter. I am going to try and live with the bands for a while. I am reluctant to purchase any Epson projector based on this design (viz., 8350). The prospect of a (normal/periodic) lamp failure "killing" a projector on a routine basis is too much risk (in or out of warranty)!

I would be curious if the community believes there a connection between UHD/E-TOR lamp failure mode and permanent projector damage. If this the case, perhaps there is a bulb replacement strategy that is more cost effective than factoring in the replacement cost of a projector every 30 months or so... Any thoughts????

I only need a bright 2D projector and am considering a Panny PT-AR100 as the replacement. The application is a living room.
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post #22 of 65 Old 07-25-2013, 08:57 AM
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I never had a lamp failure on my 8500UB, and I have both bands at the top and bottom. This probably rules out the direct causal relationship.

It seems as though heat or heat over time is what causes the damage. Another thread suggested that some supporting pieces in the optical glass path changed shapes slightly over time, which seems like it makes sense.

Either way, I'm done with Epson for projectors. I'll likely go JVC on my next one, but I'm also trying to live with the bands for the next year or two.
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post #23 of 65 Old 07-25-2013, 08:59 AM
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Have flexible are you in placement? Also, do you have a preference between LCD and DLP? If not, Acer, BenQ and now Viewsonic have put out some low cost projectors recently that have gotten great reviews. Though be warned, none of those would give you the picture you have now outside of increased brightness.
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post #24 of 65 Old 07-25-2013, 09:37 AM
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Thanks diaglem for your response. It was worth a shot to consider some causal effect.... How many hours did you get on your 8500UB before the bands became visible.

I think its time to think about cost of ownership ((initial product cost + lamp cost - used recovery value) / hrs used))... For this product, my cost of ownership is currently $0.69/hr. Regrettably, with the color bands the used recovery value is now $0. Note: there are several used 8500UBs currently available for $1300+

I am concerned with image quality as well as brightness. The 8500UB is my second projector (the first being a $10K Optoma H79 back in 2004). I have been very happy with the performance of the 8500UB in terms of both image quality and brightness compared to the H79 not to mention price!

Mrke1, I do need lens shift (but, powered is not necessary). I am reluctant to pay for 3D as it won't be used. I do not wish to take step backwards in either image performance or brightness. That said, buying time is always a good thing to do. Perhaps when more LED light source projectors hit the market, we can get the quality without concern for heat based end of life issues....
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post #25 of 65 Old 07-25-2013, 01:16 PM
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I'm not sure exactly how many hours I got out of the projector before I started to see the pink band. I think I had owned the projector about ... 3 years, give or take. I'd say it probably had 3000 to 4000 hours. I don't know for sure because I did get a replacement on warranty due to noisy lens issue.

I've also replaced its fan because the original seemed to be struggling. It was starting to click, and when I pulled it out, I couldn't figure out how to fix it. The replacement fan wasn't expensive (~$20), but it wasn't easy to get to it, nor to solder in the wires.

Either way, I think these are unacceptable design flaws. Many owners of this line of projectors are experiencing these band issues, and the numbers will only go up. My confidence in Epson, which used to be high, is now in the toilet, and I'll happily pay 50% to 100% more for a product which I believe will last 10 years. Even in this disposable age, 3 years is a joke.

Mentally, I was prepared to pay up to $500 to fix it and extend its life. Its picture quality and brightness are good. But I can't bring myself to pay $1,000 for a lesser image.

It's very sad. I love my big screen, but I can't look away from those damn bands :-)
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post #26 of 65 Old 08-24-2013, 08:31 PM
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Just wanted to post and say that the fix that Tinman posted above works perfectly! Had this exact same issue on a Epson Powerlite Pro Cinema 9500UB and this immediately fixed the problem. Just opened it up, removed 2 boards and then found the lense closest to the lamp and pushed down...click. Put it back together and voila it was fixed. So thanks to Tinman for the fix!
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post #27 of 65 Old 08-24-2013, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krees10 View Post

Just wanted to post and say that the fix that Tinman posted above works perfectly! Had this exact same issue on a Epson Powerlite Pro Cinema 9500UB and this immediately fixed the problem. Just opened it up, removed 2 boards and then found the lense closest to the lamp and pushed down...click. Put it back together and voila it was fixed. So thanks to Tinman for the fix!

Awesome!!!

Glad it worked for you. biggrin.gif

Welcome to the darkside.....
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post #28 of 65 Old 08-26-2013, 04:21 PM
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Krees - Thanks for posting. I will try Tinman's recipe on my 8500UB.. I have been living with the bands (apparently not as bad as some...), waiting to "use up" my last spare lamp... Had planned on replacing projector when the lamp went. Based on your success with Tinman's solution, I may be able to keep this projector until a suitable LED based replacement comes to market... Again, many thanks to you and Tinman for posting smile.gif...
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post #29 of 65 Old 08-27-2013, 10:20 AM
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Update: I attempted to repeat Krees' success story, but was put off by the differences between my projector (8500UB) and the examples in the photo's provided/referenced in this thread. See photo's below. I am reluctant to pull the large circuit card shown without some understanding as to how many brackets, additional circuit cards, etc. need to be removed once that main card is out of the way... I did attempt to see if I could push down the only visible lens (closest to the lamp see yellow arrow in picture) without removing the main board. This lens seemed to be solidly in place and didn't move or click. Any additional detail or insight to indicate that it this fix is valid for an 8500UB and further detail regarding dismantling specifics relative to this projector would be greatly appreciated!


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post #30 of 65 Old 09-05-2013, 08:30 PM
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Huge thanks to Tinman and everyone else for contributing, my 6500UB is now fixed following these instructions, at least for now (crosses fingers and tries to find something wooden to touch). In my case it was a pink, mauve strip 2-3 inches wide on the "bottom" of the image from a ceiling mounted projector, no color problem at the "top" of the image. Hopefully the following observations may help others (at your own risk etc etc).

1. I removed two circuit boards and also the top cover from the light engine/lens. I also removed the auto iris assembly. I removed the bulb just because it seemed like a good idea, probably not necessary.
2. In my case the lens closest to the bulb wouldn't shift, but the next lens in the light path did click twice as I pushed down on the top of it at either "end" (looking down at the lens) to make sure it was fully seated. To get access to this second lens you only need to remove the first circuit board and the auto iris assembly which is the part with the black wires attached in VSPetes image above (just above the yellow arrow). So assuming this is what fixed the problem then there was no need for me to remove the second circuit board that JustAnEE shows folded out of the way in his second image or to remove the light engine cover with the bar code on it to get access to all the lens.
3. For what its worth my projector looks very similar inside to the 8500UB shown above and to Just AnEE's so I guess most of these models are pretty similar.

Other observations/thoughts
1. When I removed the light engine cover the lens were free to rattle about in their locations. The cover had small grey foam rubber pads in some locations that I assume bear down on the top of some of the lens once reassembled and hold the lenses firmly against their seating. It didn't look like anything in this area was tightly engineered, meaning that as long as the grey foam pads are in good condition then everything should align correctly. Just my speculation though.
2. I took my time disconnecting all the plugs on the circuit boards and carefully noting orientation of plugs etc. Ditto on screws, clips etc since I didn't want to end up with leftovers at the end! It seems like most of these plugs have a locking fixture to retain the plug so I used a small jewelers screwdriver to ease the plastic shell away from the plug to ease removal. I'd recommend care when removing in order to avoid stressing or even breaking any wires but I can't say how vulnerable they may be or not.
3. My projector had 2788 hours before it became too dim (its about 19 feet from screen). At that point I fitted a new Epson bulb which now has 873 hours on it. I never upgraded firmware in my projector, so for example my generation of projector had an issue with it taking a while to warm up and come into focus when the ambient temperature is cool. My speculation is that firmware that countered this may have also accelerated the effects of the color shifts which is perhaps why I onlt recently encountered this issue. Just some food for thought.

So specifically for VSPete I'd suggest that you remove the board you show pictured and then the auto iris and see if pushing down on the second lens fixes your problem.

Once again thanks to all.
Cheers
John
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