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post #1 of 18 Old 10-31-2014, 05:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Projector Suggestions Please

Hello!

I am finally beginning construction on my theater room. A little info..

Theater room is about 14' wide and 20' deep.

7' Ceilings --it is a framed and built from scratch room.

No windows, with an exterior door installed. So I have total light control.

Trying to get a screen as big as I can.

Keeping to a budget of probably less than $1000 unless I get an epic deal.



I am more of a Audiophile than Videophile. I do like a nice picture, and have a nice Panasonic plasma in my living room. I definitely appreciate the quality difference between my Comcast cable HD and a Blu-ray, but not enough to appreciate the quality of one better filmed Blu-ray over another.


So, I am looking for a projector and screen. Looking for some suggestions.

I will be playing Games with my PS3 and PS4, watching a little TV and watching mostly movies.


I want to consider a few things:

Cost of projector

Ideally the color would be black, as my ceiling will be black.

Cost of bulbs

picture quality

ease of setup/flexibility-- being able to know where to place my outlet/hdmi cable right away so I can rough it in.



I like to buy from Amazon, as I have gift cards.

I saw the BENQ w1070 and people seem to love it.


Any alternatives I should consider?

Any tips for me?

What kind of screen?

Any thoughts would be really appreciated.
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post #2 of 18 Old 10-31-2014, 06:55 AM
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The Elite SableScreen is a decent screen and works well in a light controlled room.

Light control doesn't mean a room with no windows though. It means lights on dimmers, zoned lighting, dark paint, dark walls, dark carpet, and dark ceiling. Actually controlling the 1,000+ lumens which are coming from the projector and hitting the screen is as much a part of light control as hitting a light switch is. You can see how turning off a light switch isn't really 'light control' -because any room can do that. So, having good light control, including dimmers, zoned lighting, and proper paint/carpet is a huge factor in light control and best image quality (if you can of course).

The W1070 is a solid entry level projector. It won't really compare to your plasma. The black levels of a good Panasonic plasma is worlds better than a entry level projector. The fact that the W1070 is one of, if not the, best entry level projector ever, doesn't change that it's still entry level. The Sony HW40ES (on sale through today) is the best projector under $2,800 IMO. Much better black levels, and a much lower noise level to really put it up closer to the Panasonic plasma in terms of quality. Maybe not in your budget, but still, a better way to go if you can. Otherwise, the W1070 makes the most sense.

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post #3 of 18 Old 10-31-2014, 07:27 AM - Thread Starter
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I am keeping all the components behind the screen in a separate closet that runs the width of the theater room for that purpose, plus access to the panel. I am planning on a crown and perhaps a base molding with lights in them, plus a couple of sconces on the wall. I will look for dimmers without lights, and will have one zone for the wall lights and one for the decorative in trim lighting.

I will use flat black paint on the ceiling, a flat of another color on the walls, and a black patterned carpet on the floor. The wife will have a little say in that stuff.

It will be function first, aesthetics second.

Any other tips or suggestions?

I was a home builder for 20 years, and spent a lot of time doing ultra high end woodworking on homes $20 million and up. We just always had separate companies do the home theater. I know how to build, and build well. Just not as much on theater build and design. I know it is a whole different animal.
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post #4 of 18 Old 10-31-2014, 07:58 AM
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Sounds like some great thought on the theater build, and great you know what you are doing.

I would suggest some serious lighting in the room. This is something I personally find that many people blow.

You have a theater painted 100% dark, and so lighting the space with a few wall sconces isn't going to cut it when you actually need to see. As well, wall sconces aren't controlled lighting, so you can't have them on when watching the game or news, or something that doesn't demand complete darkness.

I always recommend that ceiling lighting be put in - and lots of it. You can ALWAYS turn lights off, this is easy. So, 1 light or 100 lights, when they are off, they are off. But, when you turn the lights on, because you want to see, the difference between 1 light and - say a dozen recessed lights, in a dark theater, is huge. IME, most home theater companies don't do lighting properly, and those who don't regularly do theaters (builders - no offense!) - really don't get it right. The room is dark, so to properly light the room so it feels like a normal room, you need about twice as much lighting as a typical room.

The zones should be: 1 row of highly directional lighting (spotlights) over and slightly behind every seat. On its own dimmer. These are the lights that can be on and have hte lowest level impact on the screen. They can be on bright enough for reading, or eating, or hanging out with the guys, but never really impact the on screen quality.

Another 6+ lights for the rest of the space as 'general' lighting. These lights evenly light up the non-reflective room in such a manner that it is not only easy to move around, but you can truly see what is on the floor, or work in the room if necessary. On dimmers so that they can be lower if just general movement is required, but they can be cranked to full power when service work/cleaning is needed in the room.

Theaters, when done properly like yours is, just suck up light. So, sconces which may work in a light colored room, leave the theater feeling very cave-like.

If you are a builder, this should be a very low-budget addition, and will really help with how comfortable the room is at all times.

If you nix all the rest of the lights, you still want spotlights over seating on dimmers so you can have some very controlled light on when 'the guys' are over and you are just watching the game. Kind of weird to be watching sports in a pure black room, and tough to get food and drink.

I have some impact images up here:
http://www.avintegrated.com/lighting.html

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post #5 of 18 Old 11-01-2014, 04:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post
Sounds like some great thought on the theater build, and great you know what you are doing.

I would suggest some serious lighting in the room. This is something I personally find that many people blow.

You have a theater painted 100% dark, and so lighting the space with a few wall sconces isn't going to cut it when you actually need to see. As well, wall sconces aren't controlled lighting, so you can't have them on when watching the game or news, or something that doesn't demand complete darkness.

I always recommend that ceiling lighting be put in - and lots of it. You can ALWAYS turn lights off, this is easy. So, 1 light or 100 lights, when they are off, they are off. But, when you turn the lights on, because you want to see, the difference between 1 light and - say a dozen recessed lights, in a dark theater, is huge. IME, most home theater companies don't do lighting properly, and those who don't regularly do theaters (builders - no offense!) - really don't get it right. The room is dark, so to properly light the room so it feels like a normal room, you need about twice as much lighting as a typical room.

The zones should be: 1 row of highly directional lighting (spotlights) over and slightly behind every seat. On its own dimmer. These are the lights that can be on and have hte lowest level impact on the screen. They can be on bright enough for reading, or eating, or hanging out with the guys, but never really impact the on screen quality.

Another 6+ lights for the rest of the space as 'general' lighting. These lights evenly light up the non-reflective room in such a manner that it is not only easy to move around, but you can truly see what is on the floor, or work in the room if necessary. On dimmers so that they can be lower if just general movement is required, but they can be cranked to full power when service work/cleaning is needed in the room.

Theaters, when done properly like yours is, just suck up light. So, sconces which may work in a light colored room, leave the theater feeling very cave-like.

If you are a builder, this should be a very low-budget addition, and will really help with how comfortable the room is at all times.

If you nix all the rest of the lights, you still want spotlights over seating on dimmers so you can have some very controlled light on when 'the guys' are over and you are just watching the game. Kind of weird to be watching sports in a pure black room, and tough to get food and drink.

I have some impact images up here:
http://www.avintegrated.com/lighting.html
I see what you are talking about now. The website helped.


I was avoiding going through the ceiling to help sound deadening. I am not going to go loco with it, as it is just my wife and I here, and if I am watching a movie, she is probably here with me. Now when I play video games, that may be a different story.


That is why I wasn't simply doing a bunch of cans in the ceiling. I also don't plan on doing anything else with the space. So I don't need a ton, just enough.

What do you think about sound loss though ceiling cans?




I looked at the screens you mentioned. They look nice.


Do you think the bean q 1070 will suit my needs?
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post #6 of 18 Old 11-01-2014, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCMlover View Post
I see what you are talking about now. The website helped.


I was avoiding going through the ceiling to help sound deadening. I am not going to go loco with it, as it is just my wife and I here, and if I am watching a movie, she is probably here with me. Now when I play video games, that may be a different story.


That is why I wasn't simply doing a bunch of cans in the ceiling. I also don't plan on doing anything else with the space. So I don't need a ton, just enough.

What do you think about sound loss though ceiling cans?




I looked at the screens you mentioned. They look nice.


Do you think the bean q 1070 will suit my needs?
Congrats on the theater build. My theater is almost the same size, 20'deep 18' wide 8' tall, I painted my ceiling flat black, walls are flat dark navy with a dark gray carpet. I have a 106" Da-Lite screen with the BenQ W1070 projector.

In my environment the W1070 pops off the screen like a 106" LCD. I have owned several projectors over the years from Epson's to JVC and I find the BenQ to be an excellent overall projector. I not a black level fanatic, I prefer pop and clarity.

I use it to watch TV, blu-rays, streaming Netflix and Apple TV without issue, I also play XBOX one online games like Battlefield 4 and COD which are fast games and I notice no lag.

I think with the right "room" conditions you would be blown away by the functionality and overall performance of this entry level projector.

Good luck and post some pictures of the build.
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post #7 of 18 Old 11-01-2014, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DCMlover View Post
I was avoiding going through the ceiling to help sound deadening. I am not going to go loco with it, as it is just my wife and I here, and if I am watching a movie, she is probably here with me. Now when I play video games, that may be a different story.
While there are complex ways to maintain sound isolation and using ceiling cans, there are other directional ceiling solutions that aren't really more complex, but just different. I would spend a fair bit of time in a good lighting store looking at different on-ceiling solutions which don't penetrate the drywall. The goal is dimmable and directional lighting from overhead.

To be clear, you know that lighting is really cheap. Ceiling cans are what - $20 each? So, in the grand scheme of building and setting things up, a dozen ceiling lights is just a few hundred bucks or less.

When I finish my basement, I likely will build back boxes for my recessed lighting to help control audio bleed. It will be quite the project, but since I don't plan to move, I think it is all worth it.

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Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
So I don't need a ton, just enough.
I always encourage a balance which works for you. But, want you to think long term, and consider that if you don't plan to be there forever, the next people may very well appreciate a bit more lighting in the space.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
What do you think about sound loss though ceiling cans?
You don't have any sound loss - you have sound bleed-over which goes into other parts of the house. The entire point for not penetrating the ceiling is to prevent a different floor from being noisy. Which is a very real issue, and why there is a whole subset of forums here that get into the whole thing. I will be reviewing those sections in detail when I finish my basement.


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Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
Do you think the bean q 1070 will suit my needs?
The W1070 is the best projector under $1,800. The Sony 40ES is the best under $2,800. I think the W1070 will suit the needs of everyone. Really. It doesn't mean that the Sony isn't better. So, it's all a personal call. I have the W1070, I like it a great deal, but the Sony is considered to be a great deal better looking overall. I have not yet had the chance to check, but I have a 40ES for a client that I will be putting head to head with my W1070. At the end of the day, I expect the Sony to look a fair bit better. But, whether it's worth the extra $1,200 (or more) is certainly an individual decision.

If you can't get the HW40ES, then the W1070 is a damn good way to go.

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post #8 of 18 Old 11-03-2014, 04:30 AM - Thread Starter
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I think maybe the w1070 is the way to go. Do you think I can get a 120" screen on my wall? 7' high and 14' wide.

How far away should I mount the projector?
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post #9 of 18 Old 11-03-2014, 05:16 AM
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I think maybe the w1070 is the way to go. Do you think I can get a 120" screen on my wall? 7' high and 14' wide.

How far away should I mount the projector?
You should have plenty of room for a 120" diagonal screen as it covers an area of approximately 9' wide by 5' tall. Mounting the projector is another story as it depends on which projector you choose. if you go with the W1070, then you would want to go around 11'4' from the lens to the screen. You can easily check throw distances at projectorcentral.com
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post #10 of 18 Old 11-03-2014, 08:43 AM
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The calculator to learn to use is here:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ...ulator-pro.htm

Learn to use it!

With the Image Diagonal set to 120", the Throw Range box indicates that the lens to screen distance must be between 10' and 13'1". Your wiring should go slightly behind that and you may want to include some sort of backing board to mount the projector mount into and drill holes in it to route wiring through.

Wiring: Have we discussed this? Will you be able to add wires later? What wires are you running now? If you can't run wiring later, put conduit in place now. 1.25" is ideal, nothing smaller than 1". (use something similar to Carlon Resigard) If you can't run conduit, then run 1-2 HDMI cables, and multiple runs of cat-5e/cat-6 raw cable.

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post #11 of 18 Old 11-03-2014, 03:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post
The calculator to learn to use is here:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ...ulator-pro.htm

Learn to use it!

I am playing with it now. Looks like some good info.



With the Image Diagonal set to 120", the Throw Range box indicates that the lens to screen distance must be between 10' and 13'1". Your wiring should go slightly behind that and you may want to include some sort of backing board to mount the projector mount into and drill holes in it to route wiring through.

Will 120 be a good fit for my room? I am worried it will go too low to the ground.



Wiring: Have we discussed this? Will you be able to add wires later? What wires are you running now? If you can't run wiring later, put conduit in place now. 1.25" is ideal, nothing smaller than 1". (use something similar to Carlon Resigard) If you can't run conduit, then run 1-2 HDMI cables, and multiple runs of cat-5e/cat-6 raw cable.

I can do conduit easy enough. Was going to do 2 HDMI cables just in case. IDK if I need Cat 5 but can just in case.

Basically everything is just framed. So I can figure out whatever I need and build it that way!
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post #12 of 18 Old 11-03-2014, 06:12 PM
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If you have conduit, then you can run 1 piece of HDMI. I typically run HDMI outside the conduit so it leaves an empty conduit.

Conduit must be 1" or larger. HDMI does not fit through .75" conduit.

Cat-5e/6 cable is phenomenally versatile, but if you don't need it now, then don't worry about it. Don't think of cat-5e being 'network' - it can be used for control, or HDMI extension, or many other things. But, if you have conduit, you can just add it later.

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post #13 of 18 Old 11-04-2014, 04:07 AM - Thread Starter
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So I will run my conduit, and block off an area about 11' back for my projector to sit, and put power there.

I will have additional lights for the ceiling.

Any other ideas?

Do you think that 120" screen will be too low?
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post #14 of 18 Old 11-04-2014, 09:21 AM
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I jump around between threads.... How low are you looking at? Keep in mind, I used a 161" screen with 8' ceilings in my basement. It's almost touching the floor, but is just fine.

People often worry about height, but with front projection, you want your eyes about 1/3 to 1/2 way up from the bottom of the screen. People almost universally mount a bit higher than they should.

With a 5' tall screen (120" diagonal), you have about a foot above, and a foot below the screen. This leaves room for a center channel above or below, and seems like it would be just fine IMO.

What is your viewing distance going to be (eyes to screen) and where do you like to sit in the movie theater? Center of theater? A bit closer? Very close? Further back than center? I like sitting very close in theaters, but I don't like craning my neck back. So, maybe 1/4 of the way back from the front seats is my preference, though I would go closer. I enjoy the larger screen.
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post #15 of 18 Old 11-04-2014, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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I jump around between threads.... How low are you looking at? Keep in mind, I used a 161" screen with 8' ceilings in my basement. It's almost touching the floor, but is just fine.

People often worry about height, but with front projection, you want your eyes about 1/3 to 1/2 way up from the bottom of the screen. People almost universally mount a bit higher than they should.

With a 5' tall screen (120" diagonal), you have about a foot above, and a foot below the screen. This leaves room for a center channel above or below, and seems like it would be just fine IMO.

What is your viewing distance going to be (eyes to screen) and where do you like to sit in the movie theater? Center of theater? A bit closer? Very close? Further back than center? I like sitting very close in theaters, but I don't like craning my neck back. So, maybe 1/4 of the way back from the front seats is my preference, though I would go closer. I enjoy the larger screen.

The viewing distance is TBD. I was going to probably do 2 rows of chairs starting somewhere near the middle.
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post #16 of 18 Old 04-30-2015, 06:18 AM - Thread Starter
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I know it has been a while, but the drywall goes in tomorrow! Is the 1070 still the projector to get?
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post #17 of 18 Old 04-30-2015, 01:27 PM
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I know it has been a while, but the drywall goes in tomorrow! Is the 1070 still the projector to get?
Unless you want to pony up the cash for the superior Sony HW40ES then yes. It's very good looking. The Optoma HD50 is a bit nicer looking, but for the money, I would go to the Sony, or stick with the W1070.

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post #18 of 18 Old 04-30-2015, 05:38 PM - Thread Starter
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When I buy a 4k projector, I will spend some coin. For now I want to buy an Svs ultra sub!
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