Mitsubishi HC7900DW owner's thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 1174 Old 02-03-2014, 07:21 PM
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wow..i ordered mine yesterday from b and h, without the emitters/glasses for 799, as we are using component cable... coming from a infocus 7210, which is 9 yrs old, under 1000hrs.. this machine better work...
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post #362 of 1174 Old 02-03-2014, 11:59 PM
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Coming from the HC4000, throwing 106" image on a grey screen, in a dark living room, will I expect to see a dramatic improvement ?
Seeing as both are single DLP DC3, from the 2D perspective ,will it be an upgrade?
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post #363 of 1174 Old 02-04-2014, 07:00 AM
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As far as quality of pic goes my anecdotal observation is that Blu-ray movies look awesome and a little visibly better than my old 720p Mitsi HD1000U. When the Mitsubishi logo comes up when first turned on it is very sharp with none of the jagged edges my old HD1000 had. There seems to be less of a noticable difference on my Directv satellite sourced material. The channels transmitting in 1980 x 1080 look great but the 720p ones sometimes, to my memory, don't look at good as they did on my native 720p projector. Overall I am quite happy with the pic on this projector. While I will rarely watch 3D I have tested it with both Avatar and Star Trek Into Darkness and it works great.

Bottom line is that I think anybody coming from an older projector or no projector will find the pic very pleasing and will be happy with the projector as long as they have the latest fastest HDMI cables and a AV receiver new enough to pass through the latest high speed signal!
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post #364 of 1174 Old 02-04-2014, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notlad View Post

As far as quality of pic goes my anecdotal observation is that Blu-ray movies look awesome and a little visibly better than my old 720p Mitsi HD1000U. When the Mitsubishi logo comes up when first turned on it is very sharp with none of the jagged edges my old HD1000 had. There seems to be less of a noticable difference on my Directv satellite sourced material. The channels transmitting in 1980 x 1080 look great but the 720p ones sometimes, to my memory, don't look at good as they did on my native 720p projector. Overall I am quite happy with the pic on this projector. While I will rarely watch 3D I have tested it with both Avatar and Star Trek Into Darkness and it works great.

Bottom line is that I think anybody coming from an older projector or no projector will find the pic very pleasing and will be happy with the projector as long as they have the latest fastest HDMI cables and a AV receiver new enough to pass through the latest high speed signal!

It's not unusual for 720p material to look better on a native 720p display, as there should be no extraneous processing of the signal going on, which often degrades quality, if the device doing the processing is using the manufacturers often inferior proprietary scaling. You might experiment with letting different components handle the conversion to see if any do a better job at it, either the projector or the AVR, assuming you don't have a dedicated box for scaling. I know DirecTV stbs show a light on the unit next to the highest resolution supported by the display, but I don't know if they actually convert everything to that resolution or not, so you might need to manually set the video output resolution to 720p in the stb for 720p signals first, before seeing how well the Mits and/or AVR processes them. I've been reasonably impressed by the Mits's handling of 720p games, which are considerably sharper than they were on my former Sony 1080p SXRD, with less motion instability.

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post #365 of 1174 Old 02-04-2014, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Chad Varnadore View Post

Does the emitter have to be facing you or something. I don't have a 3D reciever yet, but I hope to soon, 8' seems like plenty if the emitter can be left in the back of the room, as I assumed.

I'm not an expert, but it is an IR emitter so I assume it has to be in front of the viewer. Can someone answer this for sure?

Also I'm guessing this cable would be considered a 5 pin DIN cable? is that right? If so I'm having trouble finding one thats about 25 feet long.

Also someone referenced the blur effect from their Directv HD box. They claimed they used a new cable and it went away. I've got the same problem and I am using this cable which should be good right?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LJQM3Y/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not going through a receiver I'm just going straight from the directv box to the projector.

Thanks for your help on this.
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post #366 of 1174 Old 02-04-2014, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mckinley1 View Post

Wow I'm way in over my head with this projector reading you guys comments.....no idea.


So will someone dumb down this 2d to 3d converter? Is it just for movies? Regular tv?


This will go in my basement once I finish it....so I can set it up however I want.....any suggestions?

Distance from projector to consoles and directtv box a factor?
Wiring or hdmi cables advice?

Basically what would those of you who have yours installed at home do different if you had to do it over for best performance?

Thanks guys

If anyone can throw me a bone on these questions...I'd appreciate it.
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post #367 of 1174 Old 02-04-2014, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jeff_aclin View Post

I'm not an expert, but it is an IR emitter so I assume it has to be in front of the viewer. Can someone answer this for sure?

Also I'm guessing this cable would be considered a 5 pin DIN cable? is that right? If so I'm having trouble finding one thats about 25 feet long.

Also someone referenced the blur effect from their Directv HD box. They claimed they used a new cable and it went away. I've got the same problem and I am using this cable which should be good right?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LJQM3Y/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not going through a receiver I'm just going straight from the directv box to the projector.

Thanks for your help on this.

I am not using the emitter designed for this projector so I am not sure if this info will help. I modified the emitter cable to accept a standard IR or RF emitter. Using a mits IR emitter from my mits RPTV I have the emitter at the projector and aimed at the screen. The IR signal bounces off the screen and to the glasses with no problem using Samsug IR glasses. This should also work for the emitter designed for this projector. As for the direct TV issue I can't help you as my ATT Uverses box works flawlessly through my Denon AVR using a 50' very old HDMI cable.

Smart enough to know better, to old to care
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post #368 of 1174 Old 02-04-2014, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rekbones View Post

I am not using the emitter designed for this projector so I am not sure if this info will help. I modified the emitter cable to accept a standard IR or RF emitter. Using a mits IR emitter from my mits RPTV I have the emitter at the projector and aimed at the screen. The IR signal bounces off the screen and to the glasses with no problem using Samsug IR glasses. This should also work for the emitter designed for this projector. As for the direct TV issue I can't help you as my ATT Uverses box works flawlessly through my Denon AVR using a 50' very old HDMI cable.

Ah, point it at the screen. Didnt think about that. I'll give that a shot. Thanks for your help!
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post #369 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 08:01 AM
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Who are you responding too? Me or the other poster? The remote wasn't in use any of the times it's been triggered, except for the one time it happened while playing a PS3 game, which that was bluetooth, which the Mits doesn't support.

It's definitely not heat. When it first started it always seemed to happen about 20 to 45 minutes into the movie. Where I've had it running for 10 hours straight without any problems at least once and four to six hours dozens of times. The audio does cutout for a few seconds when it happens, but I suspect that's due to the sudden loss of HDMI handshake when the projector trips off.

My initial reaction was that it was a projector problem too. But, I've had three different Mitsubishi techs now (of questionable expertise grant you) tell me they don't think it's the projector, that it's likely something in the signal triggering it. And, again, it doesn't shutdown - it's on one second, completely off a split second later, followed by the fan turning back on 20-30 seconds after that to cool down the lamp, which is a built-in safety measure in the event of a power outage, but a power outage has never been the cause. The first time it happened was around the 12 hour mark. It's been beyond my ability to predict ever since. Now it seems to happen as little as once or twice every 100 hours, whether the improvement is from some of the auto and superfluous features I've disabled in the Denon and PS3 or if I'm just coincidentally not watching as many discs that are triggering it, I have no idea. It's very fishy for sure. I personally think that even if it is something down the line triggering it, the Mits is likely overly sensitive and possibly more prone to handshake temperamentality than it should be.

If it still happens with the new AVR, I'll be pushing Mits hard to take care of it - which I have no reason to think they'll give me any trouble - like I said, it was my decision to upgrade AVRs first. Though a good suggestion, especially if it was still happening every 4-6 hours on average, I'm not inclined to compromise my PQ for what could amount to 100 hours or more, or my AQ for another 100 hours, as my first step would be to bypass the AVR, sending HDMI straight to the projector and optical sound from the PS3 to the Denon. Should the problem continue with the new AVR, considering everything else I've tried, if that doesn't satisfy Mits that it's their projector that's at fault, it'll at least satisfy me that either the unit's design is too quirky, if not too unstable to merit keeping in my system and/or that Mits is no longer a company to be trusted. I'm nowhere near that last part, mind you. I do have my concerns about the reliability of the Mits (while I love the PQ, IMHO the build of the unit seems little more than a cheap business-grade data projector that's been tweaked with a 1080p panel and a few other enhancements to broaden the market to the HT crowd as well), I have just as great a concern about how dated the firmware is in the Denon and whether or not it's sufficient to handle everything that gets thrown at it via modifications to BD spec today.

I have a newer Yamaha, probably 2-3 years old and it did it to me. I'm going to have to do a little more messing with the unit to see what triggers it off. Only last time it was in the middle of a movie and nothing else was going on. I do remember that when I first loaded the Bluray, it seemed to trip the projector. Not sure if it was a change is resolution that made it unhappy. Have there been any firmware updates for this projector or a way to see which version we are running?
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post #370 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 10:10 AM
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I noticed posts about this projector turning off in mid use, I just wanted to say this hasn't happened to me and I've used it for probably 4-8 hours per day for over 3 weeks now. I'm using it connected directly to my PC. I haven't read all posts, but for those having the power issue, have you confirmed it's not the bulb door that's not closed tight enough? I remember my first projector after a bulb change had this issue, I think I had not tightened the bulb cover screw tight enough so with the heat of it being on it probably expanded the parts just enough for the lamp door closed sensor to no longer get pressed, perhaps it's something similar happening to those with this issue.

A slightly unrelated question: I just got my 3 pairs of 3D PS3 glasses and should receive the emitter tomorrow, any suggestions for 3D movies with good 3D effects?

Thanks
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post #371 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 10:27 AM
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ive also made this question on the benq thread but at the same amount, for a use in a 75% no light living room and 25% with lights, is the hc7900 a better option (in picture quality) than a benq w1300/1400??
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post #372 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mckinley1 View Post

Wow I'm way in over my head with this projector reading you guys comments.....no idea.

So will someone dumb down this 2d to 3d converter? Is it just for movies? Regular tv?

This will go in my basement once I finish it....so I can set it up however I want.....any suggestions?

Distance from projector to consoles and directtv box a factor?
Wiring or hdmi cables advice?

Basically what would those of you who have yours installed at home do different if you had to do it over for best performance?

Thanks guys

The 2D to 3D converter should work for anything but static images (still photos).

Make sure you can install the projector and screen where you want them by taking into consideration the offset (even with lens shift at max the image will be significantly lower from the ceiling mounter projector lens than many other projectors) and make sure the zoom range allows the projector and screen to be a distance apart that will work in your room.

The only difference the distance from the PJ to TV box will do is the length of cable required, and the longer you need the cables, the better quality they need to be to carry the signal. I'm using a 7 year old 35 foot HDMI cable and have no problems so far (actually, the image would blank out on rare occasion but a new video card in my PC happened to solve that even though that's not why I changed it, my 7 year old video card couldn't play 1080p smoothly).
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post #373 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by aab1 View Post

The 2D to 3D converter should work for anything but static images (still photos).

Make sure you can install the projector and screen where you want them by taking into consideration the offset (even with lens shift at max the image will be significantly lower from the ceiling mounter projector lens than many other projectors) and make sure the zoom range allows the projector and screen to be a distance apart that will work in your room.

The only difference the distance from the PJ to TV box will do is the length of cable required, and the longer you need the cables, the better quality they need to be to carry the signal. I'm using a 7 year old 35 foot HDMI cable and have no problems so far (actually, the image would blank out on rare occasion but a new video card in my PC happened to solve that even though that's not why I changed it, my 7 year old video card couldn't play 1080p smoothly).

So everything will be 3d? Tv shows? Sports?
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post #374 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TViewer2000 View Post

I have a newer Yamaha, probably 2-3 years old and it did it to me. I'm going to have to do a little more messing with the unit to see what triggers it off. Only last time it was in the middle of a movie and nothing else was going on. I do remember that when I first loaded the Bluray, it seemed to trip the projector. Not sure if it was a change is resolution that made it unhappy. Have there been any firmware updates for this projector or a way to see which version we are running?

Unfortunately, 2-3 years can still be very out-of-date in the modern world of ever-changing specifications, unending firmware revisions (that break as much as they fix) etc, especially if the firmware you're running is that old. Still, that's somewhat discouraging, as Yamaha is the brand I'd pretty much decided on switching to.

As more people seem to be having the same issue, it's starting to point the finger more at the 7900s being defective or overly temperamental by design. It would be interesting to hear if anyone is having the same issue with something other than BD or BD-based games. There are no other video sources in our HT to test it with.

I think there's been at least one firmware revision, as one of the Mits techs I called ran the serial number to verify I had the latest firmware, which he said I did.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aab1 View Post

I noticed posts about this projector turning off in mid use, I just wanted to say this hasn't happened to me and I've used it for probably 4-8 hours per day for over 3 weeks now. I'm using it connected directly to my PC. I haven't read all posts, but for those having the power issue, have you confirmed it's not the bulb door that's not closed tight enough? I remember my first projector after a bulb change had this issue, I think I had not tightened the bulb cover screw tight enough so with the heat of it being on it probably expanded the parts just enough for the lamp door closed sensor to no longer get pressed, perhaps it's something similar happening to those with this issue.

A slightly unrelated question: I just got my 3 pairs of 3D PS3 glasses and should receive the emitter tomorrow, any suggestions for 3D movies with good 3D effects?

Thanks

Thanks for the suggestion. My unit came with the problem, new. However, one of Mits diagnostic steps was to replace the lamp, which didn't fix it either. I'm sure it's not the lamp cover, as that's easy enough to see. It seems remote that both lamps would be improperly installed, but I'll check it tonight, maybe the lamp itself is slightly loose, afterall there's an SVS sub just a few feet away. That might also explain why it took about 35 hours before it happened on the replacement lamp they sent.

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post #375 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 02:00 PM
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Hello, I am in the market to replace my Optoma HD70 and want to stay below $1500. I have a placement issue that limits my options because I have a high ceiling and a ceiling fan in the middle of the room. I need to throw a 100" screen from about 15' away and still have a bright image. I want the blackest levels I can get. The only viable options I see are Epson and this Mitsubishi.

One particular question I had was about the 3D of this projector. It doesn't look like it does RF or DLP Link but an IR solution. This to me seems like the worst of the options available. How are people installing the IR emitter? Since my projector will be ceiling mounted is there a way to mount the emitter on the projector or does it need to be near the front center of the screen line of sight like a typical TV (this would be near impossible for me to run)?

Thanks for the help.
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post #376 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notlad View Post

I coughed up the ten bucks and subscribed to get the final part of the calibration. However others have mentioned that the calibration was done on an early model and it is very possible some firmware upgrades since then have made those calibrations obsolete. For that reason Chad suggested I try the calibration settings for the 8000 model also on projector reviews website.

It is for that reason I am curious to see what other owners settings are, particularly on the low lamp mode since that is what I run except for special things like the Super Bowl where I want some light in the room.

Anyone care to share what they used as settings for the 7900? Or else a link to the website that you have to pay $10 to see the settings for both the 7900 and 8000?
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post #377 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 03:07 PM
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Anyone care to share what they used as settings for the 7900? Or else a link to the website that you have to pay $10 to see the settings for both the 7900 and 8000?
The site with the HC7900 and 8000 reviews is projector reviews.com
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post #378 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by John Wilson View Post

Anyone care to share what they used as settings for the 7900? Or else a link to the website that you have to pay $10 to see the settings for both the 7900 and 8000?

projectorreviews - they show basic calibration settings in the reviews themselves for free. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I wouldn't bother subscribing just for their finer adjustments, especially when such may have been rendered inaccurate from a firmware revision. Though, my guess is there was really no reason for the 7900 and 8000 to differ as much as their review samples, and the firmware corrected whatever was the cause of the grayscale being so far out with the 7900s. Still I'd expect anything finer to be too unit specific to prove reliable. With my 7900 their published settings were of no real value. I was actually surprised at how close their settings for the 8000 appeared though. I don't think I could have adjusted it any closer by eye. At the very least it easily satisfied me until I can get the aforementioned problem worked out, so that I can justify going forward with anything more refined.

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post #379 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by shiseido View Post

ive also made this question on the benq thread but at the same amount, for a use in a 75% no light living room and 25% with lights, is the hc7900 a better option (in picture quality) than a benq w1300/1400??
any help??wink.gif
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post #380 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by nimda View Post

Hello, I am in the market to replace my Optoma HD70 and want to stay below $1500. I have a placement issue that limits my options because I have a high ceiling and a ceiling fan in the middle of the room. I need to throw a 100" screen from about 15' away and still have a bright image. I want the blackest levels I can get. The only viable options I see are Epson and this Mitsubishi.

One particular question I had was about the 3D of this projector. It doesn't look like it does RF or DLP Link but an IR solution. This to me seems like the worst of the options available. How are people installing the IR emitter? Since my projector will be ceiling mounted is there a way to mount the emitter on the projector or does it need to be near the front center of the screen line of sight like a typical TV (this would be near impossible for me to run)?

Thanks for the help.

The Mits will work in your room at 15' to a 100" screen, it has a large off set so it is ideal for high ceilings but don't know if you can clear the Fan. You can modify the 3D emitter port to accept any 3D emitter you want be it IR,RF or even Bluetooth, it won't do DLP link. The optoma RF 3d emitter is the best option but the glasses are very expensive. I am using an old mits IR emitter with Samsung glasses that cost only $12.99 a piece and the emitter is mounted right next to the projector bouncing the IR signal off the screen to the glasses. I still would recommend a dedicated room with dark walls,ceiling and floor with a positive gain screen. It has very good black level some compare close to the Epson 5030

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post #381 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by rekbones View Post

The Mits will work in your room at 15' to a 100" screen, it has a large off set so it is ideal for high ceilings but don't know if you can clear the Fan. You can modify the 3D emitter port to accept any 3D emitter you want be it IR,RF or even Bluetooth, it won't do DLP link. The optoma RF 3d emitter is the best option but the glasses are very expensive. I am using an old mits IR emitter with Samsung glasses that cost only $12.99 a piece and the emitter is mounted right next to the projector bouncing the IR signal off the screen to the glasses. I still would recommend a dedicated room with dark walls,ceiling and floor with a positive gain screen. It has very good black level some compare close to the Epson 5030

Thanks for the quick reply and thats great news for me as I would rather use the RF 3D anyways. You mention "modify the port" what does that involve? Could you be more specific or point me where to find out more info? Also, does anyone happen to know of a good cheap ceiling mount for this projector? It will need an extension arm as well at least 24".

Thanks again.
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post #382 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 05:25 PM
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Just an insight I had a sony es 4600 receiver and my projector shut off
Twice during the first 60 hours. Bypassed the receiver direct to the projector
And has not shut off since now at 240 hours. Direct from HTPC no issues.
Most receivers having crappy hdmi switching.
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post #383 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
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Just an insight I had a sony es 4600 receiver and my projector shut off
Twice during the first 60 hours. Bypassed the receiver direct to the projector
And has not shut off since now at 240 hours. Direct from HTPC no issues.
Most receivers having crappy hdmi switching.

Thanks for reporting that. As I'm only using one HDMI input on the AVR, I wonder if disabling all others in the input setup menu would be of any benefit.

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post #384 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 05:59 PM
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Worth a try for sure but I'm sure the problems are from the
crap handshake issues. Glad to see there are a lot of
happy owners on this thread if your using
HTPC then needi3 on Madvr is the ticket
read the last 20 pages on doom9 Madvr
Thread. Amazing work being done with
Direct compute video processing.
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post #385 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 06:36 PM
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Have people who are experiencing the shutoff issue have HDMI CEC disabled on both the projector and/or their receivers? An overly sensitive IR receiver could be generating a spurious shutoff signal.
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post #386 of 1174 Old 02-05-2014, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nirvana_av View Post

Have people who are experiencing the shutoff issue have HDMI CEC disabled on both the projector and/or their receivers? An overly sensitive IR receiver could be generating a spurious shutoff signal.

Not sure about the PJ, but making sure any HDMI control was disabled in the AVR and PS3 was one of the first things I did.

I just learned I need to make sure any deep color features are disabled too, since they're not of any use - apparently such takes up bandwidth unnecessarily and that can cause HDMI signal interference or something.

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post #387 of 1174 Old 02-06-2014, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg1292 View Post

Just an insight I had a sony es 4600 receiver and my projector shut off
Twice during the first 60 hours. Bypassed the receiver direct to the projector
And has not shut off since now at 240 hours. Direct from HTPC no issues.
Most receivers having crappy hdmi switching.

Hmm...might have to try this. I may have to buy a HDMI splitter for the HTPC if this works since I would rarely use the projector for anything else except for movies. When yours shutoff was it during the middle of the movie or were you doing anything to upset the projector or did it just shutdown?
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post #388 of 1174 Old 02-06-2014, 09:52 AM
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No just out if the blue. I think one time
Is when I went into the sony menu .
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post #389 of 1174 Old 02-06-2014, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by nimda View Post

Hello, I am in the market to replace my Optoma HD70 and want to stay below $1500. I have a placement issue that limits my options because I have a high ceiling and a ceiling fan in the middle of the room. I need to throw a 100" screen from about 15' away and still have a bright image. I want the blackest levels I can get. The only viable options I see are Epson and this Mitsubishi.

One particular question I had was about the 3D of this projector. It doesn't look like it does RF or DLP Link but an IR solution. This to me seems like the worst of the options available. How are people installing the IR emitter? Since my projector will be ceiling mounted is there a way to mount the emitter on the projector or does it need to be near the front center of the screen line of sight like a typical TV (this would be near impossible for me to run)?

Thanks for the help.

I just got my glasses yesterday and emitter today. The IR emitter is powerful enough that you can probably have it anywhere in the room as long as it's not in a closed opaque box, it basically "lights up the entire room" with it's invisible IR signal. I have mine behind the couch pointing towards the screen which probably results in the weakest possible signal and it works great. I think it's safe to say you can put it pretty much anywhere you want even if there's no direct line of sight with the glasses like in my case.

My only issue is that most remotes barely work if they even work at all while the emitter is working, for example I need to point the remote to the projector for it to respond while without the emitter on I can point the remote anywhere.

So far I find 3D videos recorded with a 3D camera incredible, but I find the projector's 2D to 3D conversion doesn't seem to do anything that I can notice even with the depth setting on max, I've read others say this projector has among the best 2D to 3D conversion, was the content I was watching not ideal or am I expecting too much? For example I find the sound version of this, Pro Logic II, to do an absolutely incredible job of converting stereo to surround as if it had been recorded in surround sound, but so far this projector's 2D to 3D conversion doesn't seem to do anything noticeable at all with what I tried it with.

Another minor annoyance with this projector is that it takes forever for the image to come back when the signal type or some modes are changed, for example when you change the video signal in Windows and it gives you something like 20 or 30 seconds to click accept, there are only about 7 seconds left to accept by the time the projector starts projecting again. Not a major issue, but annoying that it takes so long to change modes, my last Sharp projector was near instant to change modes.

Anyone have suggestions for good 3D movies? I tried Finding Nemo but the 3D effects are rather subtle, with "real" video recorded with a 3D camera it's incredible, but I've only seen a few short YouTube demos for that, I'd like to be able to watch an entire 3D movie but don't know which are good, I'd also prefer not cartoons as the 3D effects never seem anywhere near as good as real life video from a 3D camera.

Thanks
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post #390 of 1174 Old 02-06-2014, 10:57 PM
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Anyone here coming from an Epson 8700UB? Thoughts on how it compares?
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Reply Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP

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Mitsubishi Hc7900dw Home Theater 3d Projector , Mitsubishi Hc4000 300 Inch 1080p Front Projector
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