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103K views 1K replies 138 participants last post by  rekbones 
#1 ·
Well it seems like I'm the only one with this projector so I'm going to start an owner's thread. So far I love the projector. I did have some setup issues, where I had to turn off overscan in the ATI catalyst control center on my HTPC, change the HDMI setting to enhanced on the projector, and there is some plastic that came with the projector and I have no idea what it is for, but I love it! I upgraded from an HD1000U because of the whining color wheel. This projector is practically silent in econ mode and with my 95" screen that is plenty bright! I'm a big fan of frame interpolation so I have that turned on as well and it's very good on this projector. I haven't tried 3D yet, not sure if I will. Anyway, that's a start to this thread!
 
#402 ·
Does anyone have the Denon AVR2112CI with this projector? I'm 90% sure this is the projector I want to buy but I was wondering if the flickering problem was present with this receiver. Also I'm still trying to find a supplier for the RF 3d cable mod if anyone knows where I can purchase one please let me know.


Thanks.
 
#403 ·
I was excited to try he 2D to 3D conversion of this projector after others said it was among the best they've seen, but I can't see any difference whatsoever with it in regular 2D and with the 2D to 3D on. Unless I'm doing something wrong I will never use this feature as I'm basically wearing the glasses for nothing.


I was under the impression the projector detected the objects that move against the background and puts those "in front of" the background, but everything is at at the same depth with 2D to 3D on, I even set the depth setting to the maximum and still can't see items at different depths. Without the glasses you can tell it's basically shifting things at the top of the screen more and things at the bottom of the screen less, but it does not put any particular objects "in front of the background" that I can tell".


"Real" 3D video recorded with a 3D camera is unmistakably 3D, but the 2D to 3D conversion does nothing whatsoever to me.


Am I missing something?


Does anyone know if a YouTube video that this projector converts well to 3D in case it's just the videos I've tried that aren't ideal for 2D to 3D conversion?
 
#405 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24330214


No...


Maybe if you could shelf mount it upside down.

It would have to be a pretty high shelf, the offset(distance from the center of the lens to the top of the screen) on this unit is pretty big even with lens shift maxed. I'm at about 13" of offset on a 106" screen at 130" throw distance with lens shift cranked all the way.
 
#406 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by curtishd  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24329715


I'm having issues with the Mitsubishi website calculator for placement so could anyone here help...

Can I shelf mount this even with the top of the screen?

Is 3D 120hz or 144hz?

How does it compare to the Benq w7000?

Only if it's inverted. Though I've got about an 8 inch offset from the center of the lens to the top of my screen with about as short a throw as this PJ can do. I believe it can shift up some more, but I don't think it'll shift 8 inches, without angling it and using keystone correction, which isn't ideal. The inputs and power cable are also in the rear, so you'll need some wall clearance to hook it up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nimda  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24329764


Does anyone have the Denon AVR2112CI with this projector? I'm 90% sure this is the projector I want to buy but I was wondering if the flickering problem was present with this receiver. Also I'm still trying to find a supplier for the RF 3d cable mod if anyone knows where I can purchase one please let me know.


Thanks.

"Flickering" problem? If you're referring to the display tripping off suddenly, your Denon is about 3 years newer than mine, so it's possible it won't be a problem for it. Though, it's still uncertain if it even has anything to do with the AVR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aab1  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24329991


I was excited to try he 2D to 3D conversion of this projector after others said it was among the best they've seen, but I can't see any difference whatsoever with it in regular 2D and with the 2D to 3D on. Unless I'm doing something wrong I will never use this feature as I'm basically wearing the glasses for nothing.


I was under the impression the projector detected the objects that move against the background and puts those "in front of" the background, but everything is at at the same depth with 2D to 3D on, I even set the depth setting to the maximum and still can't see items at different depths. Without the glasses you can tell it's basically shifting things at the top of the screen more and things at the bottom of the screen less, but it does not put any particular objects "in front of the background" that I can tell".


"Real" 3D video recorded with a 3D camera is unmistakably 3D, but the 2D to 3D conversion does nothing whatsoever to me.


Am I missing something?


Does anyone know if a YouTube video that this projector converts well to 3D in case it's just the videos I've tried that aren't ideal for 2D to 3D conversion?

I've also heard that this pj is apparently one of the better designs for converting 2D to 3D - which I'm a bit hesitant to believe considering Mitsubishi isn't really known for their innovation. Regardless, the consensus seems to be that no projector manufacturer does a really impressive job of 2D to 3D. So what you're seeing may be par for the course.
 
#407 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Sowden  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24328326


I just purchased the HC7900DW as well as a 110" Elite Spectrium2 screen for the start of my (on a tight budget) home theater. I am in New Zealand so a lot of the gear in this country is overpriced but I have managed to arrange for the both to be freight forwarded via sea shipping. It would cost 5 times the price of the screen to send it airfreight.


I am interested in the mounts people are using for this projector?

Check out my post # 391 above. Its a very versatile and sturdy mount. Can use it for both wall or ceiling mount applications. Available on Amazon.
 
#408 ·
It happened again - makes twice today. My niece wanted to watch Batman Returns during their stay. Just into the film, I discovered the audio was out of sync - like a number of early WB BDs when bitstreaming to the Denon. I start flipping through the menus and found a auto sync option enabled (separate from the manual delay setting) that I wasn't even aware of or probably was when I first installed the unit and read the manual, but had long forgotten about. I turned it off, but decided instead of annoying my niece by playing with the delay for the next 10-20 minutes, I'd just stop the movie and set the PS3 to output via PCM. Letting the PS3 decode has always worked for the few discs I've come across with sync issues, mostly early WB titles, like The Last Samurai. I assume it's at least partly being exaggerated by the Denon; I'm probably not completely bypassing the Denon's video circuitry either. Letting the PCM decode all but fixed the audio sync - I think what little sync-error remained was in the dub, as parts seemed timed perfectly, others were just slightly off.


Toward the end of the movie, when the frozen zoo is being blownup by the emperor penguins (man this movie is a little more hokey than I remember), the room goes black. That at least quickly ruled out the auto-sync feature causing it. But it is curious that when I switched the PS3 to bitstream some months ago, that's also when it started happening less frequently. Wher, here it already happened once within 90 minutes of switching it back to PCM.


As it happened during a passage with ample bass, I was reminded that I needed to check to make sure the lamp was still firmly seated, on the chance that it had vibrated itself loose from the SVS sitting in the corner just a few feet away, even though I've successfully eliminated any vibration from visibly shaking the projector itself by using corrugated plastic as a cushion between the mount and the ceiling where it's bolted thru the sheetrock into a couple joists. No dice though. The lamp mounting screws were all as tight as could be and the chamber cover was secure too. Oh well...
 
#409 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by nimda  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24329764


Does anyone have the Denon AVR2112CI with this projector? I'm 90% sure this is the projector I want to buy but I was wondering if the flickering problem was present with this receiver. Also I'm still trying to find a supplier for the RF 3d cable mod if anyone knows where I can purchase one please let me know.


Thanks.

There is a member here, WichitaT, that makes and sells cables to convert from the IR to RF or IR AND RF. He contacted me recently and said he sells a cable that would connect to BOTH an IR and a FR emitter for ~$30 or a RF emitter only cable for $20. Do a search on his name and you could send him a PM.


Hope this helps.
 
#410 ·
excuse the follow 'stupid' question..but..


the manual say the center of the lens should be in the center of the screen.. I must be missing something


at the mom we have a infocus 7205 that is 17' from the screen which is a 115'' it is mounted on a pipe/pole from the ceiling . from he floor to the middle of the lens is 83 1/2'' , and 30'' from the ceiling to the middle of the lens. the screen is 25'' off the floor. and 35'' from the ceiling (drop ceiling over the screen)


if I have to mount the pj lens center in the center of the screen, im going to have a pole hanging down over the seating area..


I must be reading this wrong... thanks
 
#411 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by paris401  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24332766


excuse the follow 'stupid' question..but..


the manual say the center of the lens should be in the center of the screen.. I must be missing something


at the mom we have a infocus 7205 that is 17' from the screen which is a 115'' it is mounted on a pipe/pole from the ceiling . from he floor to the middle of the lens is 83 1/2'' , and 30'' from the ceiling to the middle of the lens. the screen is 25'' off the floor. and 35'' from the ceiling (drop ceiling over the screen)


if I have to mount the pj lens center in the center of the screen, im going to have a pole hanging down over the seating area..


I must be reading this wrong... thanks

By center, they're referring to horizontal alignment, not vertical alignment. Some PJs allow for exact center positioning via vertical allignment, but not this one. The Mits will have to be mounted either above or below the screen.
 
#412 ·
I have another question.



In the manual it says to disconnect the power cable when not in use. Is that what everyone here does? With my Optoma HD70, I just powered it off with the remote so that the green light would slowly flash. Basically in a stand-by mode. I'd like to do the same with the 7900. In other words, leave in stand-by with just the red light on. I have it plugged into a UPS so it is protected pretty well from power surges or sags.


What are your thoughts?
 
#413 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Wilson  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24332928


I have another question.



In the manual it says to disconnect the power cable when not in use. Is that what everyone here does? With my Optoma HD70, I just powered it off with the remote so that the green light would slowly flash. Basically in a stand-by mode. I'd like to do the same with the 7900. In other words, leave in stand-by with just the red light on. I have it plugged into a UPS so it is protected pretty well from power surges or sags.


What are your thoughts?

I was surprised at that suggestion in the manual as well and asked Mits about it during one of our trouble-shooting sessions. I don't recall the reason he gave, I'm not even sure he knew. He did comment that the manual has some errors in it, which I know it's got plenty related to spelling and sentence structure. He did say that leaving it on was fine. I told him what I do, and he indicated it was ideal: I turn off the CyberPower UPS after the lamp has fully gone through the cool-down. This is essentially the same as unplugging the unit, but the surge suppression is still active in the UPS (called CyberPower to confirm - I also called APC as I have everything else plugged into one of their power conditioners, they also said their products, or at least my model, works the same way). You don't get any voltage regulation or power conditioning, but surge protection remains active when the unit is powered off. I think it's one of the new energy star power saving features to keep your equipment from drawing juice when inactive for long periods, which we usually only fire up the HT for 2-4 hours in the evening.
 
#415 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by aab1  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24329991


I was excited to try he 2D to 3D conversion of this projector after others said it was among the best they've seen, but I can't see any difference whatsoever with it in regular 2D and with the 2D to 3D on. Unless I'm doing something wrong I will never use this feature as I'm basically wearing the glasses for nothing.


I was under the impression the projector detected the objects that move against the background and puts those "in front of" the background, but everything is at at the same depth with 2D to 3D on, I even set the depth setting to the maximum and still can't see items at different depths. Without the glasses you can tell it's basically shifting things at the top of the screen more and things at the bottom of the screen less, but it does not put any particular objects "in front of the background" that I can tell".


"Real" 3D video recorded with a 3D camera is unmistakably 3D, but the 2D to 3D conversion does nothing whatsoever to me.


Am I missing something?


Does anyone know if a YouTube video that this projector converts well to 3D in case it's just the videos I've tried that aren't ideal for 2D to 3D conversion?

The Mits has the best 2D to 3D conversion I've seen and I've seen a few. Here's the problem -- for some reason depending on your setup the 2D to 3D conversion does absolutely nothing when you turn it on! It sure confused me since I also have a Mits 8000 and wasn't having a problem with its 2D to 3D conversion. With the 7900 I was running an HDMI cable from my Oppo BD player to my receiver and then out from the receiver to the projector. The conversion didn't work. The Oppo has two HDMI outs so I ran another HDMI out from the player directly to the projector and that did the trick -- the 2D to 3D conversion worked and it works very well. Why do I have to set it up this way? Maybe the cables I'm using are not as good as they should be. Maybe there's an issue with the receiver(s)?
 
#418 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Varnadore  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24329023


Our 7900 just flicked off again, while my nephew was playing a game this morning. That's only the second time it's happened during a game, even funnier that he played the same game for a couple hours last night without any problems, after watching a movie on it too. In fact, he and my niece have played the game for a couple months now; they've all but completed it, they're just finishing the last of the trophies. But this morning it trips, for the first time in about a month, or roughly 100 hours of use. I just disabled the deep color setting in the PS3 the other day too, which some have suggested might help with HDMI problems. Like I said: unpredictable.


Gotta pick a horse (new AVR) soon.

I started working on figuring out the problem and this is what I tried so far. I directly connected my PS3 to the projector. I started watching Netflix and after about 10 minutes it turned off. I then went in and play Super Motherload. I played this for about 30 minutes and then I hear a click and the screen goes blank. The power button is flashing green/red green/red green/red green/red. Then I hear another click and the fan then turns on. The Power button is then solid red and the status light flashes green. I hear one last click and the fan turns off and the status light is now off. I'm thinking it has to be something inside the projector. I'm going to try running component cables from my Bluray player to see if this is an HDMI thing or an internal problem.
 
#419 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TViewer2000  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24333617


I started working on figuring out the problem and this is what I tried so far. I directly connected my PS3 to the projector. I started watching Netflix and after about 10 minutes it turned off. I then went in and play Super Motherload. I played this for about 30 minutes and then I hear a click and the screen goes blank. The power button is flashing green/red green/red green/red green/red. Then I hear another click and the fan then turns on. The Power button is then solid red and the status light flashes green. I hear one last click and the fan turns off and the status light is now off. I'm thinking it has to be something inside the projector. I'm going to try running component cables from my Bluray player to see if this is an HDMI thing or an internal problem.

It doesn't sound like we're experiencing the same problem. I don't get the alternating red/green sequence, which is supposed to be a code for what's wrong. I don't get any kind of code at all. I believe alternating red/green is related to the lamp or lamp ballast. I'd check the lamp to make sure it's properly seated, before calling Mits. But yours sounds like a more clearly identifiable problem than what I'm experiencing. Mits tech support should be able to diagnose it more easily.
 
#420 ·
Wow that didn't take long. Made it about 5 minutes before the projector shutdown with the component cables hooked up. I'm going to say that the problem I'm having is something internal. Tried one more time and it made it about 5 - 10 minutes before it shut off again. Time to get on the phone with Mitsubishi I guess to see what they can do.
 
#421 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Varnadore  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24333737


It doesn't sound like we're experiencing the same problem. I don't get the alternating red/green sequence, which is supposed to be a code for what's wrong. I don't get any kind of code at all. I believe alternating red/green is related to the lamp or lamp ballast. I'd check the lamp to make sure it's properly seated, before calling Mits. But yours sounds like a more clearly identifiable problem than what I'm experiencing. Mits tech support should be able to diagnose it more easily.

Is that a pretty simple process? How long should I wait since I've been trying to run this for about an hour on and off.
 
#422 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TViewer2000  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/420#post_24333769


Is that a pretty simple process? How long should I wait since I've been trying to run this for about an hour on and off.

Yes, projectors are designed for their owners to be able to change the lamps themselves. It's easy enough - shouldn't take more than 10 minutes. It's detailed in the manuel, but it's just a matter of sliding out the lamp cover, loosening the screws that hold the lamp in place, pulling it out, looking it and the chamber over for any obvious signs of damage, and putting it back in. I'd give the lamp some time to make sure it's cool though. A warm lamp is more delicate. I'd probably give it an hour, if it was mine. If you've never changed one before, you might feel more comfortable calling Mits first and have them tell you to check it to make sure it's seated correctly, themselves - unless they think it's something else - as they did me the first time I called. I've changed lamps many times, in a number of different projectors, so I might be more comfortable doing such.


It it's not the lamp, it's probably going to need to be sent in for servicing, unless you still have the option to swap it out for another unit.
 
#423 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TViewer2000  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/390#post_24333754


Wow that didn't take long. Made it about 5 minutes before the projector shutdown with the component cables hooked up. I'm going to say that the problem I'm having is something internal. Tried one more time and it made it about 5 - 10 minutes before it shut off again. Time to get on the phone with Mitsubishi I guess to see what they can do.

I have had this happen several times with my HD8000. For what appears to be no reason it turns itself off and goes through the normal shut down process. I originally thought that maybe something else (heater) was drawing power and causing some sensor in the projector to overreact and shut the projector down. I'll see if the lamp is seated properly. Very strange.
 
#424 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja Vu  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/420#post_24333883


I have had this happen several times with my HD8000. For what appears to be no reason it turns itself off and goes through the normal shut down process. I originally thought that maybe something else (heater) was drawing power and causing some sensor in the projector to overreact and shut the projector down. I'll see if the lamp is seated properly. Very strange.

I took the lamp out. Everything looked good and everything was seated properly. I put everything back in started the projector up and in about 6 minutes it shutdown again. So I think the next step will be calling Mitsubishi.
 
#425 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja Vu  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/420#post_24333883


I have had this happen several times with my HD8000. For what appears to be no reason it turns itself off and goes through the normal shut down process. I originally thought that maybe something else (heater) was drawing power and causing some sensor in the projector to overreact and shut the projector down. I'll see if the lamp is seated properly. Very strange.

Is yours flashing red/green when it happens like his? Or is it just flipping off suddenly and then going through a cooldown cycle 20-30 seconds later without any kind of error indicator (light sequence), like mine and others? The alternating red/green light is code for something wrong. Where if you're not getting an error indicator (see troubleshooting section in the manual for various indicators, like overheating, etc) Mits seems to think it's something in the HDMI signal causing it. Of course that can't be the case if you're using analog interconnects like TViewer.
 
#426 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Varnadore  /t/1468460/mitsubishi-hc7900dw-owners-thread/420#post_24334041


Is yours flashing red/green when it happens like his? Or is it just flipping off suddenly and then going through a cooldown cycle 20-30 seconds later without any kind of error indicator (light sequence), like mine and others? The alternating red/green light is code for something wrong. Where if you're not getting an error indicator (see troubleshooting section in the manual for various indicators, like overheating, etc) Mits seems to think it's something in the HDMI signal causing it. Of course that can't be the case if you're using analog interconnects like TViewer.

I am not sure about the lights -- if it happens again I'm take a look. Every time it has shut down (about 5 times) I've been using an anamorphic lens close to the projector's lens and been using the 2D to 3D conversion. There are configurations where the 2D to 3D conversion simply doesn't work. I'm beginning to think that the quality of cables and HDMI handshake issues could be an explanation. Either there's: 1) a sensor in the projector that's defective; 2) HDMI issues; or 3) overheating caused by the anamorphic lens (seems unlikely). Anyway, I'm going to turn the projector on again right now and see what happens -- probably nothing.
 
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