Mitsubishi HC7900DW owner's thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 1166 Old 02-25-2014, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwong888 View Post

Is this glasses compatible with the HC8000, The original MIT EY-3DGS-80U 3D glasses is very expensive, 220 each?

If the cable mod is compatible then they should work. I know its compatible for the HC7800 I have no idea for the HC8000 but I would think so.

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post #542 of 1166 Old 02-25-2014, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by rekbones View Post

If the cable mod is compatible then they should work. I know its compatible for the HC7800 I have no idea for the HC8000 but I would think so.
Is any other 3D glasses work with the MIT emitter? I just bought the MIT emitter but have not buy the glasses yet.
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post #543 of 1166 Old 02-25-2014, 05:17 PM
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I think any universal IR glasses like the ps3 but check through this post to verify

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post #544 of 1166 Old 02-25-2014, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by pstas View Post

Let me guess: You have dynamic iris enabled and already ceiling mounted the projector. Am I right?

I own the 7800 model, placed on a self and I experience a left bottom black corner when I enable the DI. Maybe it is a common thing.
I found out that it was the iris problom, I try to adjust the lens shift and zoom, no help, but once I turn off iris, it's fix. But is this a common problem on the 7800, can it fix?
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post #545 of 1166 Old 02-25-2014, 10:10 PM
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Okay, I finally finished reading this whole thread and will be an owner of this projector very soon. cool.gif

A few questions that I didn't see answered:


Can someone please post links to IR or RF 3D emitters and 3D glasses that work with those emitters (preferrably Amazon links)?

I saw a few listed in sporadic locations throughout the thread, but nothing consistent. I'd like to be able to compare side by side the working options for the emitters and glasses for this projector.

Would this emitter work? How about these 3D glasses? I know the PS3 ones work, I remember reading that... Please post any other emitters or glasses that work.


Someone many pages back listed the bulb that was used by Mitsubishi in their housing, something long like Osram P-VIP etc... However, there was no discussion on how hard it was to replace the bulb in the original housing. I came across this youtube link which seems close, but obviously is for a DLP TV (I can't imagine it's that far off for this PJs bulb).

Has anyone replaced the actual bulb in the original housing using the listed Osram P-VIP etc... bulb?

I'd like to avoid $350 replacement lamp costs for OEM and avoid knock offs completely if it's as easy as the youtube video would lead me to believe. In the past I've just swapped the complete bulb and housing each time, but if it's easy to get an OEM bulb for ~$100 and put it in the original housing, I'll do that myself. wink.gif


I've had a number of projectors over the years, Sony 1252 CRT, Infocus 4805, and HC1500.

Is anyone that now has the HC7900DW coming from the HC1500 or similar? How does this compare to that model? I don't remember seeing any direct comparisons between those two in the thread.


Thanks to everyone for all the great information and for providing me reading material while I wait for mine to arrive!
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post #546 of 1166 Old 02-25-2014, 11:27 PM
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can someone please help me out to figure it this projector will fit my setup.

throw distance ~ 13' (155")
Ceiling ~88"
Fixed DIY 110" screen on the drywall.
bottom of the screen from the floor ~19"
Top of the screen to the ceiling about ~15"

Can someone please confirm, based on the calculator I don't think it will work... mad.gif
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post #547 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clark17 View Post

can someone please help me out to figure it this projector will fit my setup.

throw distance ~ 13' (155")
Ceiling ~88"
Fixed DIY 110" screen on the drywall.
bottom of the screen from the floor ~19"
Top of the screen to the ceiling about ~15"

Can someone please confirm, based on the calculator I don't think it will work... mad.gif
My set up is similar, 110" screen with 13' throw distance, all you need is a short projector mount.
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post #548 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 04:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwong888 View Post

My set up is similar, 110" screen with 13' throw distance, all you need is a short projector mount.

Thanks for your feedback, however my problem is Fixed 110" screen... After pluging in the numbers it doesn't look pretty... Even if I use low 2" mount. I own 5" currently.
Please see the distance from the floor to the bottom of the screen is about 19" and the top of the screen to the ceiling is about 15". The throw distance ~ 13' (155") and Ceiling ~88".

Please advise... I don't want to buy it and than cry about it ;:-( can someone PLEASE verify... wink.gif

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post #549 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwong888 View Post

My set up is similar, 110" screen with 13' throw distance, all you need is a short projector mount.

Ok I figured it out.... I think I know how the calculator works now. ahhaah... Thanks for your help once again.

If I'm not mistaken I will need 0 - 1" projector mount.... WOW... My ceiling is drywalled. Any ideas how to achive this?
is it even possible?
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post #550 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 07:43 AM
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Yes, with the low ceiling you have to work with the max you'll be able to have the bottom of the screen off the ground is 10.3". I've got a 90" drop ceiling and had to mount the projector slightly into the ceiling to combat the offset. I'm running a 106" screen and it's about 17" off the floor. A little lower than I'd like but high enough to be ok, just my feet get in then way if I recline too far back.
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post #551 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrillho View Post

Yes, with the low ceiling you have to work with the max you'll be able to have the bottom of the screen off the ground is 10.3". I've got a 90" drop ceiling and had to mount the projector slightly into the ceiling to combat the offset. I'm running a 106" screen and it's about 17" off the floor. A little lower than I'd like but high enough to be ok, just my feet get in then way if I recline too far back.

This is way too close than I would like . I'm a little puzzled by your 10.3" comment based on my calculator screenshot. if I would go with max vertical shift to 71.9" top of the screen and the 110" screen height is 53.9", wouldn't the bottom of the screen be 71.9" - 53.9" = 18" off the floor not 10.3" as you suggest. Please correct me if I'm wrong I thougth 10.3" off the floor number is without using opical shift. This make sense with top at 64.2" - 10.3" (bottom) = 53.9" (the height for 110" screen).

My other worry is that the calculator doesn't show exact offset for my needs but it shows the shortest 132.6" and longest 198.2" based on projector's zoom characterics. Therefore at 156" I'm throwing from, the offset of 18.1" might increase even further.

This is the moment I wish I DID NOT HAVE FIXED SCREEN.... it is a total royal pain to find projector to fit my configuration/setup.... grrr.

BTW... Does anyone know if Mits Canada will honor units bought in US?

Thanks Guys for all your help/feedback. It is much appriciated.
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post #552 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 08:26 AM
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I'm just looking at the number right in your calculator shot. Bottom of screen is showing as 3.5" to 10.3" depending on lens shifts.
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post #553 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clark17 View Post

This is way too close than I would like . I'm a little puzzled by your 10.3" comment based on my calculator screenshot. if I would go with max vertical shift to 71.9" top of the screen and the 110" screen height is 53.9", wouldn't the bottom of the screen be 71.9" - 53.9" = 18" off the floor not 10.3" as you suggest. Please correct me if I'm wrong I thougth 10.3" off the floor number is without using opical shift. This make sense with top at 64.2" - 10.3" (bottom) = 53.9" (the height for 110" screen).

My other worry is that the calculator doesn't show exact offset for my needs but it shows the shortest 132.6" and longest 198.2" based on projector's zoom characterics. Therefore at 156" I'm throwing from, the offset of 18.1" might increase even further.

This is the moment I wish I DID NOT HAVE FIXED SCREEN.... it is a total royal pain to find projector to fit my configuration/setup.... grrr.

BTW... Does anyone know if Mits Canada will honor units bought in US?

Thanks Guys for all your help/feedback. It is much appriciated.

well... you could just mask your screen down to 100" or whatever makes it fit if you're ok with that... black felt is cheap. I would do that before a slight tilt and keystone etc.

This projector at $800 is worth some things not being 100% right imo if you're not able to spend the $2-3000 on a similar projector with some extra lens shift.

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post #554 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishtank View Post

well... you could just mask your screen down to 100" or whatever makes it fit if you're ok with that... black felt is cheap. I would do that before a slight tilt and keystone etc.

This projector at $800 is worth some things not being 100% right imo if you're not able to spend the $2-3000 on a similar projector with some extra lens shift.

You guys are killing me... (in a good way)... The worst case scenario I could lower the screen down by few inches... THe 4" mdf frame wrapped in black velvet using L brackets screwed to the drywall...

Is this PJ so much (that) much better than HD25e I currently own and I'm ready to return (screwed up offset by Optoma to fix soft corner issue)? Is it worth the hassle?

thanks
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post #555 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clark17 View Post

You guys are killing me... (in a good way)... The worst case scenario I could lower the screen down by few inches... THe 4" mdf frame wrapped in black velvet using L brackets screwed to the drywall...

Is this PJ so much (that) much better than HD25e I currently own and I'm ready to return (screwed up offset by Optoma to fix soft corner issue)? Is it worth the hassle?

thanks
My top ceiling to screen even less than yours, only 13", I'm using this mount http://www.myteknology.com/ShopItem.aspx?&CatCono=136337&ProductNo=3526878&Toc=136337:0&PageID=96667857 with a little bit lens shift.
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post #556 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrillho View Post

I'm just looking at the number right in your calculator shot. Bottom of screen is showing as 3.5" to 10.3" depending on lens shifts.

The max vertical shift down from my understanding is 3.5" + 53.9" (110" screen height) would give you 57.4" off the floor as the top of the screen. This is my understanding on how this calculator works...
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post #557 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 09:32 AM
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Thanks for the link...in my situation I might have to do DIY mount/shelf or something...

Can you BIG please provide me with your setup measurements (when you get a chance)... the bottom of the screen off the floor and the top of the screen form the ceiling.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwong888 View Post

My top ceiling to screen even less than yours, only 13", I'm using this mount http://www.myteknology.com/ShopItem.aspx?&CatCono=136337&ProductNo=3526878&Toc=136337:0&PageID=96667857 with a little bit lens shift.
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post #558 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 09:40 AM
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Yeah it looks like I'm reading that calc wrong. It appears that the bottom numbers don't correspond to the top numbers the way I had assumed they did without doing the math. It looks like you'll be about 18" off the ground at max lens shift with the 2" mount. Not 10"
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post #559 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrillho View Post

Yeah it looks like I'm reading that calc wrong. It appears that the bottom numbers don't correspond to the top numbers the way I had assumed they did without doing the math. It looks like you'll be about 18" off the ground at max lens shift with the 2" mount. Not 10"

It looks that way, and with the farther throw distance I believe the offset might change and I might be in the 0-1" range.... LOL...

Also I got reply from US retialer about Mits Canada not covering the warranty for Mits products purchased in US. Mits US will honor the warranty but I would be on the hook for shipping both ways, duties and all other fun stuff.

This is just too bad, because this looks like a really solid projector for well controlled light rooms and smaller screens.

Not sure where to go from here.... The easiest would be to accept Optoma's HD25e soft corner issues and stick with them.... decisions... decisions...
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post #560 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rekbones View Post

For those interested in another 3D glasses option for the Mits HC7900DW if you have the cable mod to make this compatible with the VESA standard emitter you can use the Xpand ex105bt glasses kit designed for the Mits RPTV's. I bought one pair with emitter for $35 and they work. This will allow the projector to work with any Bluetooth glasses. I recently purchased a Panasonic ST60 for my living room and it needs Bluetooth glasses so I wanted to see if one type of glasses would work with both the projector and the TV. I now have the projector working with Samsung IR glasses using an IR emitter, Optoma RF glasses with the Optoma emitter and now Bluetooth glasses with the Xpand emitter

Thanks for posting that. Is bluetooth supposed to be better for 3D in some way other than making emitter placement easier?

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post #561 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Toksin View Post

Okay, I finally finished reading this whole thread and will be an owner of this projector very soon. cool.gif

A few questions that I didn't see answered:


Can someone please post links to IR or RF 3D emitters and 3D glasses that work with those emitters (preferrably Amazon links)?

I saw a few listed in sporadic locations throughout the thread, but nothing consistent. I'd like to be able to compare side by side the working options for the emitters and glasses for this projector.

Would this emitter work? How about these 3D glasses? I know the PS3 ones work, I remember reading that... Please post any other emitters or glasses that work.


Someone many pages back listed the bulb that was used by Mitsubishi in their housing, something long like Osram P-VIP etc... However, there was no discussion on how hard it was to replace the bulb in the original housing. I came across this youtube link which seems close, but obviously is for a DLP TV (I can't imagine it's that far off for this PJs bulb).

Has anyone replaced the actual bulb in the original housing using the listed Osram P-VIP etc... bulb?

I'd like to avoid $350 replacement lamp costs for OEM and avoid knock offs completely if it's as easy as the youtube video would lead me to believe. In the past I've just swapped the complete bulb and housing each time, but if it's easy to get an OEM bulb for ~$100 and put it in the original housing, I'll do that myself. wink.gif


I've had a number of projectors over the years, Sony 1252 CRT, Infocus 4805, and HC1500.

Is anyone that now has the HC7900DW coming from the HC1500 or similar? How does this compare to that model? I don't remember seeing any direct comparisons between those two in the thread.


Thanks to everyone for all the great information and for providing me reading material while I wait for mine to arrive!

Anyone? Before this gets buried... smile.gif
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post #562 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Toksin View Post

Anyone? Before this gets buried... smile.gif

I have changed the lamp using the original housing in many projectors and Mits RPTV's with no issues (on a HP projector the housing was beginning to crumble with the heat of the lamp and had to be replaced after about the third lamp). Not the Mits HC7900DW yet as its new. If you don't get the OEM IR emitter you have to modify the cable that comes with the projector to accept a VESA connector from many different emitters. I know the Xpand EX105BT emitter and glasses kit (on eBay and Amazon) works with universal Bluetooth glasses. I have seen posts for the Optoma BG-BC100B RF 3D Emitter works with optoma RF glasses, I also have the OEM IR emitter for my Mits RPTV WD60C9 that works with Samsung sg2100 glasses and the cheap monprice IR universal glasses

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post #563 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Varnadore View Post

Thanks for posting that. Is bluetooth supposed to be better for 3D in some way other than making emitter placement easier?

Not necessarily there are many factors, they are less likely to lose sync if you move away or turn your head. IR is known to interfere with your IR remotes when it floods the room with IR. I think the best glasses option is the Optoma BG-BC100B RF 3D Emitter and glasses as this emitter is very programmable to allow for more variances in sync but also the most expensive glass at about $70 apiece and that's cheapest I have seen. I have found I have to set the sync in the projector all the way down to 1 to stop ghosting with the Bluetooth glasses I haven't decided what glasses are better I am still experimenting. I have the Optoma emitter but no glasses and if I could afford them I would like to give them a try.

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post #564 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 06:16 PM
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My ir emitter points at the screen and if you're looking at the screen from anywhere in the theater it works. I use the ps3 and the xpand glasses.
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post #565 of 1166 Old 02-26-2014, 11:31 PM
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I've read through the thread and checked the mits pdf manual, but I have yet to find the distances between mounting holes. One poster did reply that M4 screws are required.

My HC4000 is ceiling mounted. The mount the projector suspends from is a triangular aluminum plate with exact hole spacing, so not adjustable. I'm trying to find out if I can use the same mount for the HC7900DW or if I have to purchase a new one.

Also was wondering if the HC7900DW has the semi-hidden menu button for extra long runs of HDMI cable that is in the HC4000 menu. I had to enable that option for my HDMI cable (about 35 feet.)
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post #566 of 1166 Old 02-27-2014, 02:59 AM
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hello guys .. its my 1st post here ..
and i realy need help ..
i got this projector 2 days ago ..
its realy perfect image ( i was having lg pa75 )
but i got this proplem wich is realy a pain to me ..
when im watching a sports and there is a fast pan the picture just like scatter or lets take it in this way the news bar down screen while its moving i cant read it ..
anything to slove this proplem plz ..
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post #567 of 1166 Old 02-27-2014, 03:01 AM
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Try turning off frame interpolation.
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post #568 of 1166 Old 02-27-2014, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by shiftypete View Post

Try turning off frame interpolation.

thx for th fast replay .. did u mean the Frame Rate Conversion cuase only this i can see in menu about frame rate ?
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post #569 of 1166 Old 02-27-2014, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabthenab View Post

hello guys .. its my 1st post here ..
and i realy need help ..
i got this projector 2 days ago ..
its realy perfect image ( i was having lg pa75 )
but i got this proplem wich is realy a pain to me ..
when im watching a sports and there is a fast pan the picture just like scatter or lets take it in this way the news bar down screen while its moving i cant read it ..
anything to slove this proplem plz ..

I'm not sure I follow. Camera pans in sporting broadcasts shouldn't have any affect on static, overlayed banner graphics. Scrolling graphics might be a different story. Though, if they're not clear, I'd suspect it's likely the fault of deinterlacing/scaling conversion. You might try setting the source device, projector, or any scaler or AVR in between to video mode for those type sources.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shiftypete View Post

Try turning off frame interpolation.

I would think just the opposite. Frame interpolation stabilizes pans, allowing for greater clarity of motion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rekbones View Post

Not necessarily there are many factors, they are less likely to lose sync if you move away or turn your head. IR is known to interfere with your IR remotes when it floods the room with IR. I think the best glasses option is the Optoma BG-BC100B RF 3D Emitter and glasses as this emitter is very programmable to allow for more variances in sync but also the most expensive glass at about $70 apiece and that's cheapest I have seen. I have found I have to set the sync in the projector all the way down to 1 to stop ghosting with the Bluetooth glasses I haven't decided what glasses are better I am still experimenting. I have the Optoma emitter but no glasses and if I could afford them I would like to give them a try.

Thanks for that.

Chad Varnadore <><
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Our HT
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post #570 of 1166 Old 02-27-2014, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Varnadore View Post

Camera pans in sporting broadcasts shouldn't have any affect on static, overlayed banner graphics.
Frame interpolation stabilizes pans, allowing for greater clarity of motion.

It depends on the implementation of the frame interpolation. Mitsubishi implementation shows such kind of artifacts, when objects move fast near static graphics. You can eliminate them by turning off Frame Rate Conversion when in 2D mode, but when watching 3d content, the impact of disabling FRC is really not affordable.
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Reply Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP

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Mitsubishi Hc7900dw Home Theater 3d Projector , Mitsubishi Hc4000 300 Inch 1080p Front Projector
Gear in this thread - Hc4000 by PriceGrabber.com

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