Mitsubishi HC7900DW owner's thread - Page 39 - AVS Forum
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post #1141 of 1166 Old 09-26-2014, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Mckinley1 View Post
Hmmm ok....where is the splicing information? I've been looking and can't find it.
Mitsubishi HC7900DW owner's thread
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post #1142 of 1166 Old 09-26-2014, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Charles R View Post
So after you splice the wires.....where do those go?

The back of the projector or the emitter?
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post #1143 of 1166 Old 09-26-2014, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mckinley1 View Post
So after you splice the wires.....where do those go?

The back of the projector or the emitter?
When you bought the projector it should have come with a DIN cable with 5 pin male connectors on each end designed for the OEM emitter (optional) for the HC7900. You cut this cable and splice it to the cable that comes with the Optoma emitter. The 5 pin DIN connector goes into the back of projector and the cable from the Optoma emitter goes into the Optoma emitter. If this is too confusing I suggest you buy the $177 OEM emitter and then you can use almost any universal IR glasses. The Optoma emitter must be used with Optoma (or compatible) RF glasses, these are not to be confused with Blue Tooth or DLP glasses.

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post #1144 of 1166 Old 09-27-2014, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by rekbones View Post
When you bought the projector it should have come with a DIN cable with 5 pin male connectors on each end designed for the OEM emitter (optional) for the HC7900. You cut this cable and splice it to the cable that comes with the Optoma emitter. The 5 pin DIN connector goes into the back of projector and the cable from the Optoma emitter goes into the Optoma emitter. If this is too confusing I suggest you buy the $177 OEM emitter and then you can use almost any universal IR glasses. The Optoma emitter must be used with Optoma (or compatible) RF glasses, these are not to be confused with Blue Tooth or DLP glasses.

Yeah I just ordered the right gear. Spending about 13k finishing the basement with 2 60" tvs book ending a 106 big screen.....wtf is the difference tacking on a couple hundred bucks at this point.
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post #1145 of 1166 Old 10-09-2014, 08:41 AM
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Can someone help me with focusing this thing?

8 foot ceiling, that we have ceiling mounted (we modified the pipe to be shorter)...Lens middle is 13" from top of ceiling.

Screen is 106" and I'm guessing the projector is aiming a little above the top of the screen....132" from screen to lens.

I have the focus maxed out but it's still blurry and the bottom two corners of the screen I can't quite get maxed out rectanglily to fit 100% on the screen.

Please....if anyone has some suggestions I'd love the help. Please dumb it down for me....you guys are way better at this stuff....thanks.
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post #1146 of 1166 Old 10-09-2014, 08:49 AM
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The focus ring is the one with the chrome surrounds around the lens barrel
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post #1147 of 1166 Old 10-09-2014, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by A L Wong View Post
The focus ring is the one with the chrome surrounds around the lens barrel

Ok.....yeah that's dumbing it down enough...thanks.

Yikes....thanks.

A focus ring....missed that one.
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post #1148 of 1166 Old 10-09-2014, 11:54 AM
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Also, if the image is not a perfect rectangle, you have the projector not level. Level out the projector, use lens shift to adjust the height of the image, then focus. My 7900DW has ridiculously sharp focus all the way across the image with zero detectable CA, so I think in general it should be "very sharp."
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post #1149 of 1166 Old 10-09-2014, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RPS13 View Post
Also, if the image is not a perfect rectangle, you have the projector not level. Level out the projector, use lens shift to adjust the height of the image, then focus. My 7900DW has ridiculously sharp focus all the way across the image with zero detectable CA, so I think in general it should be "very sharp."

Sorry...is the lens shift the lever right under the lens you can move back and forth?
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post #1150 of 1166 Old 10-09-2014, 06:20 PM
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Can anyone give me what they have...if anything....as far as their 3d settings?

And am I crazy or is the 2d to 3d conversion not all that detectable or great like watching regular tv or sports?

Also...I'm just watching the game and the action is very..choppy?...if that makes sense.....any ideas on how to make regular 2d look smoother?

Last edited by Mckinley1; 10-09-2014 at 06:29 PM.
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post #1151 of 1166 Old 10-09-2014, 10:54 PM
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See the settings here:
OWNERS thread for Mitsubishi HC7800

And here's a bit more detail on the splicing:
OWNERS thread for Mitsubishi HC7800

Enjoy!

Thanks!
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post #1152 of 1166 Old 10-10-2014, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mckinley1 View Post
Sorry...is the lens shift the lever right under the lens you can move back and forth?
That is the Zoom lever, the lens shift is under the door and is a round knob.

Jerky image is caused by the projector not handling a signal other than 1080p. If your cable/sat box won't output 1080p try changing it to 1080i or 720p to see if it helps. I have a Uverse box and some channels work better with one setting and some work better with the other.

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post #1153 of 1166 Old 10-11-2014, 05:33 PM
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Anybody mess with the 3d settings?

Not sure what to have as the depth?.....

And any advice on the 2d to 3d conversion? Not sure I can see any 3d in it?..
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post #1154 of 1166 Old 10-15-2014, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mckinley1 View Post
Anybody mess with the 3d settings?

Not sure what to have as the depth?.....

And any advice on the 2d to 3d conversion? Not sure I can see any 3d in it?..
Anyone have anything on this?

Movies look awesome....but when I do 2d to 3d I'm not sure I've seen any noticeable change?
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post #1155 of 1166 Old 10-16-2014, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mckinley1 View Post
Anyone have anything on this?

Movies look awesome....but when I do 2d to 3d I'm not sure I've seen any noticeable change?
You should. I run the the 2D to 3D conversion at max (10) and you will see two distinct and separate images without the 3D glasses on. If you don't then there is something wrong. The Mits has one of the best built-in 2D to 3D converters I've seen to date -- not perfect but for some 2D material definitely worth using.
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post #1156 of 1166 Old 10-16-2014, 12:11 PM
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Hello!
What's the trouble?
After two hours on a white background almost disappear.
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post #1157 of 1166 Old 10-17-2014, 03:15 PM
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Looks like a signal problem? Or a video board problem inside the projector.

Maybe try replacing cables as an easy check. After that... looks like it's internal to the projector.
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post #1158 of 1166 Old 10-18-2014, 03:08 AM
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HDMI 2 is the same thing, even if the cable is not connected.
I think the problem is in the DLP chip or on-board connectors.

150 hours in total. bought on B & H, there are no guarantees.


I needed to buy BENQ
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post #1159 of 1166 Old 10-18-2014, 07:09 PM
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I managed to get back the FRC function via HDMI 2.
At the risk of frying the hdmi boards, I reconnected my Darbee to the projector,whilst 'live', and it brought the greyed out FRC back...
Now I power on my projector first, followed by the AVR and finally the media player and bd player.
I think the sequence of powering on the equipment ensures proper handshake and signal transmission.
But now every time I check, I have a feeling of fearful anticipation that it will not function
again.

**In my case, the FRC was greyed out only when a signal was going through. **

Last edited by A L Wong; 10-18-2014 at 07:13 PM. Reason: Extra info
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post #1160 of 1166 Old 10-21-2014, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja Vu View Post
You should. I run the the 2D to 3D conversion at max (10) and you will see two distinct and separate images without the 3D glasses on. If you don't then there is something wrong. The Mits has one of the best built-in 2D to 3D converters I've seen to date -- not perfect but for some 2D material definitely worth using.
Have anything I can try?

I set it to 3d, depth of 10....but without glasses the screen looks the same, or at least no double vision or altered look.
With glasses on some things flicker, but I'd hardly call it 3d.

I have the 3dcorp glasses, and Mitsubishi emitter
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post #1161 of 1166 Old 10-28-2014, 01:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mckinley1 View Post
Have anything I can try?

I set it to 3d, depth of 10....but without glasses the screen looks the same, or at least no double vision or altered look.
With glasses on some things flicker, but I'd hardly call it 3d.

I have the 3dcorp glasses, and Mitsubishi emitter
You must enable the 2D to 3D conversion.
Menu>Image>3D>2D to 3D
Highlight the tab and click ok.

Before you do the above, preselect the Gamma to 3D, Brilliant Color On, Lamp on Standard.
I save these settings on AV memory 3
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post #1162 of 1166 Old 11-02-2014, 08:31 PM
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Did some tweaking over the weekend and finally have perfect 3D image.
I am using the Estar emitter and glasses and I find the online utility absoulutely useless in trying to set the freq and duty cycle.

Finally did the manual performance tuning and got the image spot on at the first try.
No more posterization andf banding....Absolutely no ghosting at all.

Question : Has anyone accessed the ISF tuning modes? I was told there is an extra 100 lumens in the ISF day setting, which will come really handy for viewing 3D.
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post #1163 of 1166 Old 11-04-2014, 08:38 AM
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Well, finally got my projector mounted and screen mounted as well. Previously I was having problems of the projector shutting off after 15 minutes of running. I sent it out for service and the work order said that one of the fans was not plugged into the motherboard. Easy fix. Well, now that I have it all setup and went to use it and after 30 minutes the screen goes blank and the status light blinks green a bunch of times and then the projector turns off. I tried using it again and this time it lasted about 90 minutes before it does the same thing again. Do you think the fans are not cooling the bulb enough. I was thinking that maybe there would be a setting to turn the fans on higher, but couldn't find one. I only run the projector in Eco mode. I still have less than 10 hours on this thing and getting disappointed that this may be a lemon that may never get fixed. Good thing I got a 3 year warranty, but they will only fix it so may times and I know this is a good quality picture (when it does work).
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post #1164 of 1166 Old 11-04-2014, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mckinley1 View Post
Have anything I can try?

I set it to 3d, depth of 10....but without glasses the screen looks the same, or at least no double vision or altered look.
With glasses on some things flicker, but I'd hardly call it 3d.

I have the 3dcorp glasses, and Mitsubishi emitter
Do you have a 3D movie that allows you to watch the film in either 2D or 3D? If so, then watch it in 3D for a few minutes as you normally would. After you've confirmed the 3D works start the film over and select 2D and engage the conversion in the projector. You should see some red light from the emitter (indicating that it is on) just as you did when watching the movie in normal 3D. The 2D to 3D conversion should now be working.
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post #1165 of 1166 Old 11-07-2014, 08:39 AM
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Ok, I've been tracking how long the projector stays on so that I can tell the warranty company what's going on. Right now I have it hooked up to a boxee box and the projector stays on for 30-90 minutes. This morning I tried hooking up my TIVO box and it stays on only for 2 minutes. So I wonder if this projector is really sensitive when it comes to the HDMI port. Anyone else hear of this?
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post #1166 of 1166 Old 11-19-2014, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekbones View Post
I still have issues with my UVerse box. I believe the problem is the box can only output ether 1080i or 720p and the native content on some channels are 720p and some are 1080i. So if I leave the box at 1080i and the content is 720p the box converts it to 1080i then the projector converts it to 1080p causing a jerky picture in scans and vice versa if I set the box to 720p and the channel is 1080i native it causes the same problem. Everything works great with PS3, BR player and HTPC all set to output 1080p. I haven't found a solution other than changing the output of the box every time I change channels.
I have jerky pans sometimes with my DirecTV Genie box. I found going into the projector Feature menu and changing the picture format from 16:9 to AUTO (sometimes vice-versa) will fix it.

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