Mitsubishi HC7900DW owner's thread - Page 43 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1261 of 1285 Old 01-24-2016, 10:30 AM
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Does anyone have experience with the warranty through Mitsubishi? It was bought through newegg.

10 days left on my warranty and I have a hot pixel in the center of the screen.

1700hrs on the bulb(low setting)
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post #1262 of 1285 Old 01-25-2016, 11:06 AM
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1st email is them saying it is out of warranty...
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post #1263 of 1285 Old 04-06-2016, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pstas View Post
I have the Optoma transmitter and 3d glasses that actually are the same as Estar. At the post OWNERS thread for Mitsubishi HC7800, I present the settings I have set to the transmitter using the USB port.

What settings have you used?
Hey PSTAS, I finally got a 3D receiver so now the audio and picture are synced up so I'm not agonizing over the slight difference of audio and picture. So I went to put back in Star Trek and I felt that the 3D wasn't 3D enough. Got to messing around manually again and I think I'm at a good spot but would like to use the settings that are mentioned in the post you mentioned. Does Estar have their own program to adjust and if so do you have a link or could you send me the file? I think I used some other program from "BT" (I think) which bricked my last transmitter. I rather use the estar program to adjust the settings. Definitely trying to get the most out of the 3D experience.

PSN ID: Onedropshot
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post #1264 of 1285 Old 04-06-2016, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TViewer2000 View Post
Does Estar have their own program to adjust and if so do you have a link or could you send me the file?
I have kept the following link that still seems active:
http://www.estaramerica.com/upgrade-utility.html
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post #1265 of 1285 Old 04-06-2016, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by pstas View Post
I have kept the following link that still seems active:
http://www.estaramerica.com/upgrade-utility.html

Thanks! Will try it out tonight.

PSN ID: Onedropshot
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post #1266 of 1285 Old 04-06-2016, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
Does anyone have experience with the warranty through Mitsubishi? It was bought through newegg.

10 days left on my warranty and I have a hot pixel in the center of the screen.

1700hrs on the bulb(low setting)



Mine was serviced twice through Mitsubishi (I bought at Best Buy). Other than the limited hours the warranty department is open it was fairly easy to get work done. Hopefully you kept your box, makes it a lot easier to ship. You pay for shipping one way and they will send back. As long as you get the issue documented in the system before the warranty period is up you should be fine.

PSN ID: Onedropshot
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post #1267 of 1285 Old 04-06-2016, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TViewer2000 View Post
Mine was serviced twice through Mitsubishi (I bought at Best Buy). Other than the limited hours the warranty department is open it was fairly easy to get work done. Hopefully you kept your box, makes it a lot easier to ship. You pay for shipping one way and they will send back. As long as you get the issue documented in the system before the warranty period is up you should be fine.
The situation has gone sideways since then....

Once I provided my newegg invoice it was warrantied.

Sent it in($50!) the place had it for over a week before looking at it.

I received it back ~3 weeks after sending it in with "no problem found" on the work performed area. Even after providing pictures of the hot pixel.

less than 2hrs later it had a stuck pixel.

Mitsubishi sent out a replacement.

Replacement projector had 1/2 the image pixelated and corrupted.

Sent the replacement one back.

Waiting for the next replacement now.


I STILL do not have a working projector over 2 months later.


Nothing like a bright blue pixel to brighten your day.


Oh look, another one....


Some amazing QC here.
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post #1268 of 1285 Old 04-13-2016, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TViewer2000 View Post
Hey PSTAS, I finally got a 3D receiver so now the audio and picture are synced up so I'm not agonizing over the slight difference of audio and picture. So I went to put back in Star Trek and I felt that the 3D wasn't 3D enough. Got to messing around manually again and I think I'm at a good spot but would like to use the settings that are mentioned in the post you mentioned. Does Estar have their own program to adjust and if so do you have a link or could you send me the file? I think I used some other program from "BT" (I think) which bricked my last transmitter. I rather use the estar program to adjust the settings. Definitely trying to get the most out of the 3D experience.
I tried setting delay to 2270, but the slider limited me to either 2255 or 2305. How did you manage to set to 2270?

Also how do you know it saved? I hit the save button but nothing is providing feedback stating the settings saved.

PSN ID: Onedropshot
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post #1269 of 1285 Old 04-14-2016, 06:29 PM
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Manual performance tuning Estar RF6000 emitter

It has been about two years now but I clearly remember having trouble with the PC based utility to set the emitter.
I finally did it using the joystick on the emitter, whilst connected to the projector and watching a 3D movie, where I paused at a frame with obvious cross-talk.
Adjusted according to the instructions and it was perfect after that.
Never had to adjust after that so I have forgotten the actual joystick sequence required.
It is in the manual though.

http://www.estaramerica.com/docs/esg...ers-manual.pdf

Last edited by A L Wong; 04-14-2016 at 06:42 PM. Reason: Additional info
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post #1270 of 1285 Old 04-15-2016, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TViewer2000 View Post
I tried setting delay to 2270, but the slider limited me to either 2255 or 2305. How did you manage to set to 2270?

Also how do you know it saved? I hit the save button but nothing is providing feedback stating the settings saved.
Well, in my case, the Delay slider selects the values 2220-2270-2320.

I realized that if you change the value by pressing the left and right arrows of the slider, the values decreases/increases by a step of 50.
If you drug the slider then the value changes to other values.

So, I suggest to first drug the slider with the mouse to the very left position, till it shows '20'. Then keep pressing with the mouse the right arrow button until the value increases to 2270. Do not drug the slider, just use the arrows to set the correct value.

When I press the save button, the only feedback I get is a temporary loose of sync between the glasses and the emitter.

I hope this helps.

Last edited by pstas; 04-15-2016 at 12:46 PM.
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post #1271 of 1285 Old 04-15-2016, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pstas View Post
Well, in my case, the Delay slider selects the values 2220-2270-2320.

I realized that if you change the value by pressing the left and right arrows of the slider, the values decreases/increases by a step of 50.
If you drug the slider then the value changes to other values.

So, I suggest to first drug the slider with the mouse to the very left position, till it shows '20'. Then keep pressing with the mouse the right arrow button until the value increases to 2270. Do not drug the slider, just use the arrows to set the correct value.

When I press the save button, the only feedback I get is a temporary loose of sync between the glasses and the emitter.

I hope this helps.
Alright will try this. Does the program give you feedback when it saves the file. I loaded up the screen changed the value to 2230 and adjusted the duty cycle and hit save. Let it stay hooked up for 5 minutes. Then I unplugged the emitter and plugged it back in, and the software still shows 0 for delay and 0 for duty cycle. So not even sure if the emitter took the settings.


By the way PSTAS, thanks for all the help.

PSN ID: Onedropshot

Last edited by TViewer2000; 04-15-2016 at 12:54 PM.
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post #1272 of 1285 Old 04-15-2016, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A L Wong View Post
It has been about two years now but I clearly remember having trouble with the PC based utility to set the emitter.
I finally did it using the joystick on the emitter, whilst connected to the projector and watching a 3D movie, where I paused at a frame with obvious cross-talk.
Adjusted according to the instructions and it was perfect after that.
Never had to adjust after that so I have forgotten the actual joystick sequence required.
It is in the manual though.

http://www.estaramerica.com/docs/esg...ers-manual.pdf


I tried the manual method but it still seems "off" somehow. I can't pause the movie because it just shows one frame (either left or right eye) so I can't look at an image statically to see how the adjustments are doing. Pretty much have to play the same scene over and over again and try to get it right. Again, I adjusted but the more I get rid of crosstalk the bright the screen becomes but I lose 3D. The more crosstalk I get the better the 3D becomes. I figure it would be easier to go with settings that can be 'set' versus manually adjusting but not quite sure if I'm doing it right.

PSN ID: Onedropshot
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post #1273 of 1285 Old 04-15-2016, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TViewer2000 View Post
Alright will try this. Does the program give you feedback when it saves the file. I loaded up the screen changed the value to 2230 and adjusted the duty cycle and hit save. Let it stay hooked up for 5 minutes. Then I unplugged the emitter and plugged it back in, and the software still shows 0 for delay and 0 for duty cycle. So not even sure if the emitter took the settings.


By the way PSTAS, thanks for all the help.
When making the adjustments, be sure to have both the cables connected to the emitter: the usb and the projector 3d signal. Otherwise, if you unplug the cables and reconnect only the usb cable, the software will display 0 values. Also the projector must display 3D content.
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post #1274 of 1285 Old 04-16-2016, 06:33 AM
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and these are the reasons that I keep my component line and not go with hdmi/etc...
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post #1275 of 1285 Old 06-04-2016, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pstas View Post
When making the adjustments, be sure to have both the cables connected to the emitter: the usb and the projector 3d signal. Otherwise, if you unplug the cables and reconnect only the usb cable, the software will display 0 values. Also the projector must display 3D content.
Thanks, finally got around to doing this. Hooked everything up did what you said before and now everything is setup as stated in the other thread. Everything looks good! Now I can finally get to enjoy some 3D. I've been waiting to try out "The Walk". Heard it was pretty crazy in 3D.

PSN ID: Onedropshot
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post #1276 of 1285 Old 06-05-2016, 10:36 AM
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Original lamp hit 8000 hours. Defiantly not as bright as it use to be. Even with a screen innovation BDM it's getting hard to see the picture with light coming into the room.
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post #1277 of 1285 Old 06-06-2016, 01:56 PM
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Original lamp hit 8000 hours. Defiantly not as bright as it use to be. Even with a screen innovation BDM it's getting hard to see the picture with light coming into the room.
How much do bulbs go for? Hoping not more than $300.

PSN ID: Onedropshot
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post #1278 of 1285 Old 06-06-2016, 02:05 PM
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How much do bulbs go for? Hoping not more than $300.
I got a spare ready to go. bought it from projector people for $302 and was shipped to me from Mitsubishi.
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post #1279 of 1285 Old 06-07-2016, 03:56 AM
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Original lamp hit 8000 hours. Defiantly not as bright as it use to be. Even with a screen innovation BDM it's getting hard to see the picture with light coming into the room.



8000hrs...WOW... u certainly got your monies worth ... I think mine is now 2years old, and I don't think there is more then 100hrs on the bulb... so I still have 80 years b4 I need a new bulb...
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post #1280 of 1285 Old 08-19-2016, 06:43 PM
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So, I have a something going hopefully someone can help out with. The whites seem to be glowing against the darker colors. Almost like it's too bright, its hard to explain and can't find any information on a similar problem. It happened seemingly out of nowhere. I've tried swapping to my spare bulb and cleaning out the projector and resetting to default video settings. Have one bulb with 4000 hours on it and one with 900, both exhibit the same symptom. It seems like what would happen if there were crap built up on the lens but the outside is clean, is there a way to clean the inside of the lens? When I look through the lens with a flashlight the outside is clean but the inner part almost looks like there is condensation or build up of some kind. Anyone experience this?
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post #1281 of 1285 Old 08-24-2016, 04:30 PM
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Welp, anyone want this thing for parts
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post #1282 of 1285 Old 08-25-2016, 03:17 AM
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Welp, anyone want this thing for parts


No chance on contacting a Mitsu Shop for a fix eh? Maybe a second opinion elsewhere?

Could always use some extra parts, but only if you've exhausted all options.
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post #1283 of 1285 Old 08-25-2016, 05:51 AM
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No chance on contacting a Mitsu Shop for a fix eh? Maybe a second opinion elsewhere?

Could always use some extra parts, but only if you've exhausted all options.
Just trying to drum up some interest in the thread. The lens needs to be cleaned, I thought someone might have tips on disassembly. I guess I might have to be the guy to figure out how to take apart the optics on this one. its gunna suck.
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post #1284 of 1285 Old 09-08-2016, 05:30 PM
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Figured it out. There was **** on the inside of the focus lens. Pretty simple once I stopped being a whimp about it. Here's before and once I got it good enough. Picture is looking great again
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post #1285 of 1285 Old 09-21-2016, 10:40 AM
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Lamp hit 9000 hours and still going, but damn it's getting dim. Just might have to drop in my replacement.
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