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post #181 of 1174 Old 01-05-2014, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aab1 View Post

I agree with what you say, one thing I forgot to mention is that colors seem much more vibrant than on my 7 year old Sharp, I don't know if my Sharp lost "vibrancy" as it aged and parts get dirty inside or if it looked like this when new but colors are much more vivid on the 7900 than on my 7 year old Sharp.

When you say it cannot tolerate ambient light with a white screen, what size screen are you using? I tested mine making I believe a 128" image on a wall and even with 3 small fluorescent lights on between the projector and screen it was still watchable, my real screen will be 106" so it should be fine with ambient light.

By the way I have no idea what is needed to calibrate a projector as I never calibrated my 2 first projectors, do you need to buy expensive hardware or what? If it can be done cheaply I'd like to know how you do this.

Thanks

I'm using a 106". What I mean by the ambient light is its view able but it loses enough contrast that I wouldn't use it with lights on for critical viewing.

For basic calibration I used the AVS709 disc to set contrast and brightness but without a calibration tool I'm content with the colour controls set as is. I'm contemplating picking up a tool but in not sure.
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post #182 of 1174 Old 01-05-2014, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brent_b_23 View Post

I used the XPAND X104 youniversal with the mitsubishi IR emitter. No gaming sorry. 95% of my content has been bluray. Did some netflix streaming as well but it did not looks very good since the quality sucks!
Thanks again for the reply.
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post #183 of 1174 Old 01-06-2014, 10:13 AM
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Any thoughts on CNet's review:

http://reviews.cnet.com/home-theater-projectors/mitsubishi-hc7900dw/4505-7858_7-35480823-2.html

They stated they could only get about 440 lumens calibrated with the lamp on high, and about 580 lumens in the default brightest mode (which I assume they didn't like the look of given the calibrated lumens dropping so much). This seems much lower than ProjectorReview's write up where they got about 715 lumens calibrated, and over 1100 lumens in watchable "torch mode."

I can definitely deal with 715 lumens calibrated on high lamp, and the 25% drop to 545 lumens on low lamp mode (in fact, that's more than enough on my 110" 1.2 gain screen).


So did the CNet guy just not know what he's doing to end up calibrating the projector to less than a third its rated lumens? I'm used to getting roughly half the rated lumens in a calibrated/watchable image, not a third. Once the bulb ages from 440 lumens, you're going to be down in the 300's which is just too dim for me.

Thoughts?
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post #184 of 1174 Old 01-06-2014, 10:15 AM
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post #185 of 1174 Old 01-06-2014, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS13 View Post

Any thoughts on CNet's review:

http://reviews.cnet.com/home-theater-projectors/mitsubishi-hc7900dw/4505-7858_7-35480823-2.html

They stated they could only get about 440 lumens calibrated with the lamp on high, and about 580 lumens in the default brightest mode (which I assume they didn't like the look of given the calibrated lumens dropping so much). This seems much lower than ProjectorReview's write up where they got about 715 lumens calibrated, and over 1100 lumens in watchable "torch mode."

I can definitely deal with 715 lumens calibrated on high lamp, and the 25% drop to 545 lumens on low lamp mode (in fact, that's more than enough on my 110" 1.2 gain screen).


So did the CNet guy just not know what he's doing to end up calibrating the projector to less than a third its rated lumens? I'm used to getting roughly half the rated lumens in a calibrated/watchable image, not a third. Once the bulb ages from 440 lumens, you're going to be down in the 300's which is just too dim for me.

Thoughts?

That seems way too low unless they were shooting on a huge screen. I just went into the review and saq it was only 120". With Art's settings I was getting 824 lumens on 100" screen with high lamp mode so I am definately in his range and think it looks pretty darn good. I will be doing an official calibration at some point though.
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post #186 of 1174 Old 01-06-2014, 11:33 AM
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I just finished watching Iron Man 3 in 3d. I can see why it got such poor reviews. It was a very poor 3d conversion. It was very dark with very little 3D enhancement. Just to make it tolerable I watched it with the contrast turned up to 15 and also turned up the contrast on the bluray player. It helped the darker scenes but made the lighter scenes a bit bright.

I started watching it with the 5030 and the extra brightness the projector added made all of the lighting issues way worse. Huge color shifts and of course the sharpness sucked. I have probably only watched about 10 3D movies so far and 3 that I really did not care for were IM 3, Resident evil after life and pirates of the Caribbean on stranger tides. The 5030 helped Resident evil a little but made the other 2 worse. Bottom line seems to be if the 3D movie is not all that great to begin with more light is not going to help.
One of my favorites so far is Star Trek into darkness. The 10.7 fl that I am getting with the 7900 looks fantastic. The 5030 looked good too but the extra brightness did not offer anything extra and the lack of sharpness made it a tie.
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post #187 of 1174 Old 01-06-2014, 06:06 PM
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Yes I do experience screen going blank when resolution is changed say from the Blu Ray Menu to the main feature or switching between special features. I dont recall getting this on my old PJ.
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post #188 of 1174 Old 01-08-2014, 08:34 PM
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Great insight I sell the Epsons and they don't compare with PQ this is for
You and your great review!
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post #189 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 12:49 PM
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After years of lurking in the under-$3000 forum I finally broke down and ordered an HC7900DW including the 3D emitter and two 3D glasses earlier today. It should be here sometime next week. This will be my first projector, and it was hard deciding between this and the Epson 2030.

I bought a used 100" Draper Cineperm white acoustically transparent screen on ebay last week, and ordered a 50' redmere hdmi cable last night, so I should be good to go for now. I want to see exactly where I want the projector installed before I decide on a mount; it may wind up mounted to either the side or bottom of a wood beam. It should be permanently installed in a few weeks.

From everything I've read I should be blown away coming from an old 60" rear projection TV. I'm excited.
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post #190 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 01:05 PM
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I am looking at purchasing this projector shortly and I have a few questions. Details of my room are I would have a 110-120" screen, seating 11-14', ceiling mount up to 16'.

1. My ceiling height is 90", would this be OK?

2. I would have minimum ambient lighting at times, but no lights(can) within 16' of the center of the screen. The lights are controlled, would they result in the picture being too washed out?
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post #191 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 01:12 PM
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This is the space, with the lights all the way up.
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post #192 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aab1 View Post

For some reason, this projector can only run at 6x with a 24hz signal (24 frames per second) which is a relatively slow frame rate. I use an HTPC and when I set it to output at 24hz the mouse doesn't move as smoothly and the mouse movements seem slightly delayed. For video this results in less smooth motion, as I said it's watchable, but I prefer the results in 4x mode and 60hz than 6x mode at 24hz.

brent_b_23:

Thanks a lot for that review and comparison, I was curious to know how the 7900 compared to those LCDs that claim 600 000:1 contrast, it's great to hear the 7900 outperforms LCDs that are over twice the price (though I think based on original prices the Epson was originally cheaper). The better blacks of the Epson are completely meaningless if you lose all the dark scene details, that matters more to me than the actual black level which is what originally dissapointed me. It sounds like perhaps Epson configured that model to close the iris more than the 7900 would for the same scene, wouldn't that explain darker blacks and lower shadow detail? I was surprised by how little the 7900 closes the iris even for pretty dark scenes, I was expecting it to close much more than it does on dark scenes and I tried all 3 iris modes.

I also do the same thing with the projector screen coming down over not a TV but my computer screen, basically with the screen up the room is an office and with the screen down the room becomes a home theater, the same computer serves for the office and theater.

If this is your first projector and you've had it only one month, how are you already on your second screen? When you say the blacks are as black as the screen edge, do you mean the actual black border of the screen, or a white area of the screen which is outside of the projection area?

The reason motion is not blurred on DLP is that DLP can change the color of pixels virtually instantly compared to LCD which tends to fade from one color to the next rather than change color instantly as DLP can which results in blurred motion, this was particularly noticeable on the first LCD laptop screens where it would take almost half a second for pixels to complete changing from one color to another, these screens where virtually unusable for video. LCD certainly got faster response times, but still nowhere near as fast as DLP.

I'm also very surprised to hear the 7900 is brighter than the 5030 when calibrated despite the 5030 being rated at much higher lumens and good to know the 7900 is bright enough on a 106" screen for 3D as that's the size of my next screen I'm about to order.

Despite being dissapointed by the blacks due to their 150 000:1 claim which had set my expectations sky high, I'm very happy and convinced this is the best projector under $1000 I could have got.

Thanks again

I own the following projectors: Epson 6010 and 6020, Sharp 30000, Mits HC8000 and the Mits HC7900 (and a few others). Yes, I have them all set and running (except the 7900, which will be delivered shortly).

My Epsons' display excellent shadow detail and a very good black level. The black level is deeper with the Epsons' than the Mits 8000; however the Mits has an Iris3 setting that provides a full fade to black, which is nice if the source material calls for it. The Epsons' produce an exceptional image for the price, but they simply cannot compete with the DLPs in 3D, especially if you're using a HP screen. There is no ghosting in foreground and especially background images, which for me gives a clarity and detail to the depth that all non-DLP projectors that I have seen simply can't achieve. I liked the 2D to 3D conversion on the HC8000 so much I ordered the HC7900 for less than the cost of the sales tax I have paid on some of my projectors. If the 7900 can do 3D and 2D to 3D conversion like the 8000 then in my opinion it is truly a bargain.
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post #193 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 02:20 PM
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Tinman, I have nearly the set-up you are describing. I have a 115" screen with the projector mounted 16-1/2' back and seats set up so my head is about 14-1/2' from the screen. My ceiling is 9' but I have a drop pole mount so the center of the lens is about 14" below the ceiling, or 94" above the floor. With this location the bottom of the projected image is 21" off the floor. There is some manual range of adjustment for the lens shift, at this distance probably 3-4" inches up or down. I just upgraded to this projector from my HD1000u and other than the offset lens, (HD1000u has a centered lens) it fit my permanently mounted screen perfectly. For those wondering about the lumens, I have a DW screen, which is a matte white material with some gain, although I don't remember how much, in a light controlled room but with a white ceiling, dark red walls, and black carpeting, and with the lamp on low mode and some of the calibration changes mentioned earlier, provides an image that is plenty bright and looks spectacular. A really nice upgrade from the HD1000u for about the same price, but 1080p, 3D capable, and the emitter and (2) 3D glasses.
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post #194 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 02:51 PM
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I would use a draper react2 screen with the HC7900 106" or below.
If in the budget will look great with both 2D and 3D. A painted solution
MaxMudd vs 2.1 retro or silver fire. Have seen all 3 with hc7900 and
looks great. Not a fan of a white screen with dlp. Plus your ceiling won't
light up like a Christmas tree in a non light controlled room. As for black
levels wash out from your ceiling is your biggest obstacle. The star trek
Picture I posted on a white screen had washout from light reflecting
back from a white ceiling. The one posted is the MaxMudd.
Good luck and you have a nice room to
work with.
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post #195 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 03:35 PM
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My projector will be mainly for sporting events and movies. If I go with a 120" screen, a 1.1 gain will put me at 16fL. 115" and 110" will need 1.0 to stay at 16fL. I was thinking a white screen so the image isn't muddy. Thoughts??
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post #196 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 03:56 PM
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For me the image is better with a gray screen and the screenshot is in
No way muddy in fact looks almost scary real that a white screen can't
reproduce. Washout from light reflecting is the downside of white screens
Even in a total light controlled room so I'm on the grey side.
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post #197 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 04:43 PM
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Does they gray screen affect the brightness of the image??
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post #198 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 06:55 PM
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Actually the perceived brightness is better with a grey screen!!!
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post #199 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 08:58 PM
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I found a 1.5 gain elite screens cinegrey 5d. Would this screen look good in both dark and modest light situations??
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post #200 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 09:07 PM
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I'm using black velvet to control as much screen reflections as possible, but with that said the picture is amazing and I haven't really played around much with the settings. I think it would be hard to beat this projector in a light controlled room with dark walls, floor, and ceiling...think actual theater. Once ambient light is introduced it gets knocked down quite a bit. That's part of the reason I have black walls, ceiling, and floor with about 3 feet of velvet along the walls.

I have a 120" 16:9 white SilverTicket screen. Thought about grey but went off of the review by Art (?) and I think he said for 3D you would need bright white screen if you went over 110" (I might be off on that).
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post #201 of 1174 Old 01-10-2014, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja Vu View Post

I own the following projectors: Epson 6010 and 6020, Sharp 30000, Mits HC8000 and the Mits HC7900 (and a few others). Yes, I have them all set and running (except the 7900, which will be delivered shortly).

My Epsons' display excellent shadow detail and a very good black level. The black level is deeper with the Epsons' than the Mits 8000; however the Mits has an Iris3 setting that provides a full fade to black, which is nice if the source material calls for it. The Epsons' produce an exceptional image for the price, but they simply cannot compete with the DLPs in 3D, especially if you're using a HP screen. There is no ghosting in foreground and especially background images, which for me gives a clarity and detail to the depth that all non-DLP projectors that I have seen simply can't achieve. I liked the 2D to 3D conversion on the HC8000 so much I ordered the HC7900 for less than the cost of the sales tax I have paid on some of my projectors. If the 7900 can do 3D and 2D to 3D conversion like the 8000 then in my opinion it is truly a bargain.
If
How does the 2d picture quality compare between the the epson 6020 and mitsubishi 8000? Thanks for any reply.
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post #202 of 1174 Old 01-11-2014, 01:57 AM
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Just seems that some people see lots of rainbowin with 24p material and that being the only mode where 6 speed on wheel is used the 60 material in gaming and pc use is rainbow city all night long
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post #203 of 1174 Old 01-11-2014, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaan Janne View Post

Just seems that some people see lots of rainbowin with 24p material and that being the only mode where 6 speed on wheel is used the 60 material in gaming and pc use is rainbow city all night long

I have not seen a single post mentioning any rainbow issues with the current gen Mitsubishis. Can you post some sources to back that claim up?
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post #204 of 1174 Old 01-11-2014, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrillho View Post

I have not seen a single post mentioning any rainbow issues with the current gen Mitsubishis. Can you post some sources to back that claim up?

i have read lot´s and lot´s of these thrad but in some for instance one guy said he sees it on 24p material and his wife can´t watch because of it
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post #205 of 1174 Old 01-11-2014, 01:08 PM
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"If
How does the 2d picture quality compare between the the epson 6020 and mitsubishi 8000? Thanks for any reply."

In our store the 6030 does not beat the 7900 in side by side viewing. The 8000 is better than the 7900.
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post #206 of 1174 Old 01-11-2014, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaan Janne View Post

i have read lot´s and lot´s of these thrad but in some for instance one guy said he sees it on 24p material and his wife can´t watch because of it

One guy doesn't make for "Rainbow city". If you go through this thread, the HC7800 thread there's a few mentions of RBE, in this thread there is one post where his wife can see rainbows. In the HC8000 thread there is no mention of anyone seeing rainbows. Please stop blowing RBE completely out of proportion. The amount of people who are affected by it with any modern DLP is negligible. My wife gets migraines watching LED-LCD TVs with the brightness jacked up. Maybe we should start spreading fud that LEDs cause migraines?
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post #207 of 1174 Old 01-11-2014, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg1292 View Post

"If
How does the 2d picture quality compare between the the epson 6020 and mitsubishi 8000? Thanks for any reply."

In our store the 6030 does not beat the 7900 in side by side viewing. The 8000 is better than the 7900.

Really? Where do you feel the 7900 really excels over the 6030? I can't imagine it'd be in black levels and intrascene contrast (ANSI contrast)? But if so, that's a great sign.
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post #208 of 1174 Old 01-11-2014, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrillho View Post

One guy doesn't make for "Rainbow city". If you go through this thread, the HC7800 thread there's a few mentions of RBE, in this thread there is one post where his wife can see rainbows. In the HC8000 thread there is no mention of anyone seeing rainbows. Please stop blowing RBE completely out of proportion. The amount of people who are affected by it with any modern DLP is negligible. My wife gets migraines watching LED-LCD TVs with the brightness jacked up. Maybe we should start spreading fud that LEDs cause migraines?

..well i just think it's complete downer the fact wheel is 6 speed only for 24p and led me not to order this pj allhough it has good optics. I don't believe i blow it out of proportion, i just stated what i think. Reader always thinks for him/her self. Atleast they should. Im sorry for those who can't and were misslead by my post.
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post #209 of 1174 Old 01-11-2014, 03:09 PM
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Well for one how about in focus. Second depth in the image. Third color
accuracy. Fourth looks real and not fake. Absolute black levels are so
overrated . Put a dlp on a react2 screen or one of the DYI screens and
blacks more than hold there own but outright win everywhere else. Projector
and screen working together as one equals PQ ans dlp has this in spades.
Justification for out of focus technology is just not an option for me.
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post #210 of 1174 Old 01-11-2014, 05:05 PM
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Sounds very good. I'm looking at my setup to see if the 7900 will work. The high amount of vertical offset is a bit of a problem, but I think I can make it work without moving the screen down (110" diag, ~32.75" to the lower edge of the screen). I have 108" ceilings, so I do have room to work with, but I also have a "normal" light fixture somewhat close to the projector position. It looks like it'll work if I hack up my Monoprice mount, but it'll be really tight unless I'm at the very extreme end of the lens shift - which I'd rather not do just so I can have a little "wiggle room" when I get everything up.

I'd like to keep the screen up a bit higher so I can do a riser area behind my main row and put a couch or a few seats there. The screen height should help keep the riser not super high to get decent viewing of the screen.
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