Optoma HD25 and HD25-LV owners - Page 5 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #121 of 128 Old 03-30-2015, 01:30 AM
Newbie
 
Acute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by falafala View Post
Folks I upgraded to HD25-LV from 3 year old 3010. And am just loving the brightness, pop, sharpness and ZERO-crosstalk 3D on my 150". I know people say it sucks in calibrated lumens, but I did not find anything wrong with the colors OOB and now realize I cant live without the brightness (especially in 3D). May be ignorance is bliss

When I display the "grid test pattern", i see that the grid is not perfectly focused even though I got the menu text to focus. I tried two units and its the same issue. Is this normal?

Should I use any test grid from external content? If so what would you recommend?

However even with this focus issue, HD25-LV is much better than 3010's soft focus and I certainly notice a marked upgrade in sharpness and pop compared to LCD. But I am worried if I am missing out on eve better performance due to this less than ideal focus issue on my HD25-LV.

Also any calibration setting I could try for 2D?
I have the HD25 for 10 months now. Can't get the whole test grid perfectly sharp in the corners as well as in the center, but this does not affect enjoyment of movies as it is not noticeable.

I highly recommend Spears & Munsil HD Benchmark disc to fine tune the sharpness setting to your liking. I also find I can set brightness and contrast optimally using its Pluge 0% pattern. You can play around with brightness in a 2-notch range (eg. -5 and -4 for mine) and set the contrast for each brightness setting so that the background checkerboard pattern is just visible. I ended up with 2 sets of numbers I can use depending on each movie's picture quality: (a) Brightness -4 Contrast -18 to -16 (b) Brightness -5 Contrast -9.

You have to check that the contrast is not set too high that the colors are clipped by reviewing the color contrast patterns.

Last edited by Acute; 03-30-2015 at 01:33 AM.
Acute is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #122 of 128 Old 01-26-2016, 01:22 PM
Member
 
DenM3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 78
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
anybody out there? 3D glasses discussion?

Just wondering what DLP Link glasses everyone is using nowadays. I started out with the optoma DLP knock-offs but those are no longer available. (from 3DTV Corp) I tried the Sainsonic brand below, but I find the clear edge of the lens is distracting, they kind of light up around the edge like the tip of a fiber optic cable. So what is everyone using? I have also discovered that you are lucky if the glasses last more than 18 months.

http://www.amazon.com/SainSonic-Rech...ords=sainsonic
DenM3 is offline  
post #123 of 128 Old 02-05-2016, 12:48 AM
Senior Member
 
fxrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 242
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Liked: 52
DenM3, I would strongly encourage you to get RF glasses (and the required emitter) instead of DLP-Link glasses. The HD25-LV is one of the relatively few projectors on the market that can take advantage of the more recent RF technology.

I used DLP-Link glasses with my previous 3D projector but made the switch when I got my HD25-LV a couple of years ago. I think that the RF glasses are modestly but clearly better than DLP-Link glasses.

DLP-Link synchronizes to the projected image directly on your screen by recognizing a solid white (or, on some systems, red) signal that is displayed along with the left- and right-eye images. While the DLP-Link glasses generally do a good job of blocking out this sync signal, the RF glasses don't need a displayed signal at all. This avoids issues with the contrast of the 3D image since that image is never washed-out in appearance.

DLP-Link glasses also lose sync with the 3D image on occasion when there is a very bright scene in the image. I presume that is the result of the glasses "getting confused" about the bright light on the screen and "thinking" that it is the displayed synchronization signal. For me, this problem only happened with two movies (TANGLED and the MUMMIES Imax 3D disc). My RF glasses have never lost sync.

DLP-Link glasses often required me to switch 3D polarity to get the left-eye image in sync with the left-eye lens. This is an easy thing to do (a 3D setting on the projector) and it typically only needs to be done once at the beginning of the 3D movie. But my RF glasses somehow detect the correct 3D polarity and only on a couple of occasions have they "gotten confused" where I had to switch them.

Again, all of these benefits are relatively modest, but I'm definitely sold on RF being the way to go with 3D.

The required RF emitter, which attaches to the VESA port of the projector, handles multiple pairs of glasses without a hitch. (I have six.) RF glasses used to be quite a bit more expensive than DLP-Link glasses, but the price difference is now quite modest.

I recommend the following:

1) An ESG6100 Starter Kit: The EStar RF emitter and one pair of EStar RF glasses. These are basically the same as the Optoma RF emitter and glasses but are typically less expensive and easier to acquire.
http://www.amazon.com/EStar-America-...+3d+rf+emitter

2) If you need additional RF glasses, you can get more ESG6000s or the equivalent Optoma BG-ZF2100GLS glasses. Optoma has glasses of more recent vintage, but they aren't compatible with the EStar emitter mentioned above. The Optoma ZF2100 glasses are compatible with the EStar emitter and are sometimes less expensive than the EStar equivalents. (The ZF2100s are the RF glasses I have. They are rechargeable via USB and have given me zero trouble in the two years I've owned them.)
http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-BG-ZF21...100+rf+glasses

One more thing: Optoma ZF2100 glasses (or the equivalent EStar RF glasses mentioned above) work with the older Optoma BC100B RF emitter (or the equivalent EStar RF emitter mentioned above) and the more recent Optoma ZF2300 glasses work with the BC300 emitter. But the 100s don't work with the 300s.

Last edited by fxrh; 02-05-2016 at 01:01 AM.
fxrh is offline  
 
post #124 of 128 Old 04-08-2016, 01:42 PM
Member
 
DenM3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 78
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxrh View Post
DenM3, I would strongly encourage you to get RF glasses (and the required emitter) instead of DLP-Link glasses. The HD25-LV is one of the relatively few projectors on the market that can take advantage of the more recent RF technology.

I used DLP-Link glasses with my previous 3D projector but made the switch when I got my HD25-LV a couple of years ago. I think that the RF glasses are modestly but clearly better than DLP-Link glasses.

DLP-Link synchronizes to the projected image directly on your screen by recognizing a solid white (or, on some systems, red) signal that is displayed along with the left- and right-eye images. While the DLP-Link glasses generally do a good job of blocking out this sync signal, the RF glasses don't need a displayed signal at all. This avoids issues with the contrast of the 3D image since that image is never washed-out in appearance.

DLP-Link glasses also lose sync with the 3D image on occasion when there is a very bright scene in the image. I presume that is the result of the glasses "getting confused" about the bright light on the screen and "thinking" that it is the displayed synchronization signal. For me, this problem only happened with two movies (TANGLED and the MUMMIES Imax 3D disc). My RF glasses have never lost sync.

DLP-Link glasses often required me to switch 3D polarity to get the left-eye image in sync with the left-eye lens. This is an easy thing to do (a 3D setting on the projector) and it typically only needs to be done once at the beginning of the 3D movie. But my RF glasses somehow detect the correct 3D polarity and only on a couple of occasions have they "gotten confused" where I had to switch them.

Again, all of these benefits are relatively modest, but I'm definitely sold on RF being the way to go with 3D.

The required RF emitter, which attaches to the VESA port of the projector, handles multiple pairs of glasses without a hitch. (I have six.) RF glasses used to be quite a bit more expensive than DLP-Link glasses, but the price difference is now quite modest.

I recommend the following:

1) An ESG6100 Starter Kit: The EStar RF emitter and one pair of EStar RF glasses. These are basically the same as the Optoma RF emitter and glasses but are typically less expensive and easier to acquire.
http://www.amazon.com/EStar-America-...+3d+rf+emitter

2) If you need additional RF glasses, you can get more ESG6000s or the equivalent Optoma BG-ZF2100GLS glasses. Optoma has glasses of more recent vintage, but they aren't compatible with the EStar emitter mentioned above. The Optoma ZF2100 glasses are compatible with the EStar emitter and are sometimes less expensive than the EStar equivalents. (The ZF2100s are the RF glasses I have. They are rechargeable via USB and have given me zero trouble in the two years I've owned them.)
http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-BG-ZF21...100+rf+glasses

One more thing: Optoma ZF2100 glasses (or the equivalent EStar RF glasses mentioned above) work with the older Optoma BC100B RF emitter (or the equivalent EStar RF emitter mentioned above) and the more recent Optoma ZF2300 glasses work with the BC300 emitter. But the 100s don't work with the 300s.
Thanks FXRH. I took your advice, and bought the newer Optoma BC300 emitter. I know I am stuck with the ZF2300s, but are there any other glasses besides the Estar that that folks know of? The Optoma ZF2300s were 46 bucks on amazon. The Estar were about 10 bucks more expensive.


Regarding the switch to RF--- I have to say it is a huge difference! And I mean a huge improvement! Much richer colors, and the absence of the flicker makes the experience so much better. Thanks for any other tips.
DenM3 is offline  
post #125 of 128 Old 04-10-2016, 08:31 AM
Senior Member
 
fxrh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 242
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Liked: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenM3 View Post
Thanks FXRH. I took your advice, and bought the newer Optoma BC300 emitter. I know I am stuck with the ZF2300s, but are there any other glasses besides the Estar that that folks know of? The Optoma ZF2300s were 46 bucks on amazon. The Estar were about 10 bucks more expensive.
Glad to hear that you went with the RF glasses! As I mentioned earlier, I agree with you that they provide a visibly better 3D experience than DLP-Link glasses. I don't know of any alternatives to the Optoma glasses other than Estar. I'll do some investigating!

By the way, I also think that the Optoma HD25-LV provides a terrific 3D picture and I love its extra-bright image. I fiddled with the settings for quite a while (it took me some time to get skies to look blue instead of greenish-blue) but I am very pleased with the results. I've heard the objections to the white-segment color wheel etc. but I can only judge by what I see -- I think the 3D on this projector is incredible!

Enjoy!
fxrh is offline  
post #126 of 128 Old 04-11-2016, 02:49 PM
Member
 
DenM3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 78
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Another Question to all you experts ...this is about Frames Per Second.

I usually run all my sources in 24 FPS, but wondering if any of you run yours at 60 FPS to provide slightly more "Pop" to the image quality?
For things like sports, I think it might produce a better quality image.

I am not a fan of the Soap Box Effect of newer TVs that run at over 100 FPS, especially for movies. I Would like to hear others thoughts on these settings, thanks all!

D
DenM3 is offline  
post #127 of 128 Old 07-10-2016, 09:11 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 0
I have a hd25-lv and when I turned it on after not being in use for several months and I have vertical lines on the screen, not sure how to get rid of them or is something broke.
Fmont is offline  
post #128 of 128 Old 07-19-2016, 06:59 PM
Senior Member
 
raif71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 260
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 111 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenM3 View Post
Another Question to all you experts ...this is about Frames Per Second.

I usually run all my sources in 24 FPS, but wondering if any of you run yours at 60 FPS to provide slightly more "Pop" to the image quality?
For things like sports, I think it might produce a better quality image.

I am not a fan of the Soap Box Effect of newer TVs that run at over 100 FPS, especially for movies. I Would like to hear others thoughts on these settings, thanks all!

D
I've been trying to set the unit at a default display of 1080p24 but no luck (mine is hd25). I guess the device just use the max 1080p60 at its default display but as my source player is 1080p24, this introduces hdmi sync (slight delay) whenever the player starts.
raif71 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP

Tags
Optoma Hd25 Lv 3d Home Theater Projector

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off