DenM3, I would strongly encourage you to get RF glasses (and the required emitter) instead of DLP-Link glasses. The HD25-LV is one of the relatively few projectors on the market that can take advantage of the more recent RF technology.
I used DLP-Link glasses with my previous 3D projector but made the switch when I got my HD25-LV a couple of years ago. I think that the RF glasses are modestly but clearly better than DLP-Link glasses.
DLP-Link synchronizes to the projected image directly on your screen by recognizing a solid white (or, on some systems, red) signal that is displayed along with the left- and right-eye images. While the DLP-Link glasses generally do a good job of blocking out this sync signal, the RF glasses don't need a displayed signal at all. This avoids issues with the contrast of the 3D image since that image is never washed-out in appearance.
DLP-Link glasses also lose sync with the 3D image on occasion when there is a very bright scene in the image. I presume that is the result of the glasses "getting confused" about the bright light on the screen and "thinking" that it is the displayed synchronization signal. For me, this problem only happened with two movies (TANGLED and the MUMMIES Imax 3D disc). My RF glasses have never lost sync.
DLP-Link glasses often required me to switch 3D polarity to get the left-eye image in sync with the left-eye lens. This is an easy thing to do (a 3D setting on the projector) and it typically only needs to be done once at the beginning of the 3D movie. But my RF glasses somehow detect the correct 3D polarity and only on a couple of occasions have they "gotten confused" where I had to switch them.
Again, all of these benefits are relatively modest, but I'm definitely sold on RF being the way to go with 3D.
The required RF emitter, which attaches to the VESA port of the projector, handles multiple pairs of glasses without a hitch. (I have six.) RF glasses used to be quite a bit more expensive than DLP-Link glasses, but the price difference is now quite modest.
I recommend the following:
1) An ESG6100 Starter Kit: The EStar RF emitter and one pair of EStar RF glasses. These are basically the same as the Optoma RF emitter and glasses but are typically less expensive and easier to acquire.
2) If you need additional RF glasses, you can get more ESG6000s or the equivalent Optoma BG-ZF2100GLS glasses. Optoma has glasses of more recent vintage, but they aren't compatible with the EStar emitter mentioned above. The Optoma ZF2100 glasses are compatible with the EStar emitter and are sometimes less expensive than the EStar equivalents. (The ZF2100s are the RF glasses I have. They are rechargeable via USB and have given me zero trouble in the two years I've owned them.)
One more thing: Optoma ZF2100 glasses (or the equivalent EStar RF glasses mentioned above) work with the older Optoma BC100B RF emitter (or the equivalent EStar RF emitter mentioned above) and the more recent Optoma ZF2300 glasses work with the BC300 emitter. But the 100s don't work with the 300s.