Originally Posted by OZReddog
If you actually look at the variety of the lamps under the search some are 180w, some 230w and some are actually 240w so if this is a concern then simply read the description ..... Here is one example of a 240w (note: I am not endorsing this seller but simply using them as an example):
No one is forcing you to purchase, some of us were looking for alternate sources of the lamps to save some money and chose to share the information on here. Personal choice in action.
Agreed; actually I was one of the earlier posters to this thread; looking for a spare without being ripped off; same as you guys.
TBH I mention the wattage since my first bulb order (which I arranged as an import via a local AV shop in my area) was supposed to be 'OEM', but in fact, they delivered this very bulb (OSRAM P-VIP 230/0.8 E20.8). Was an original Osram and in perfect condition; but it's simply not the correct bulb
Since BenQ's web site clearly states that the intended bulb is 240W (on the spec list, here
), the supplied bulb was simply just not 'OEM' (however loosely suppliers use the term
); so the store had no problem requesting a return to swap it out for the correct bulb (which I'll be receiving in the next week) at no extra cost.
Best case the 230W bulb might've worked fine (maybe the same brightness; but likely dimmer); but pumping an unintended amount of power through a bulb is generally a good way to shorten it's lifespan. On Osram's own spec sheet
, they explicitly state that:
P-VIP lamps are perfectly matched to the system design of the projector, e.g. the cooling set-ups, driving modes and ignition parameters.
Also with systems like Smart-Eco, the projector's lamp-ballast circuitry keeps quite a tight level of control on the amount of current flowing through the bulb to modulate brightness; so I suppose we wouldn't want to risk damage to that either.
My point I guess, is that if the intention is to get as close to the original bulb's performance as possible, it makes sense to request the bulb by exact model number. It's not fool-proof (counterfeits; changing model numbers; etc are all still possible); but at least it's one step closer.