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post #31 of 39 Old 09-12-2013, 07:55 AM
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NFLguy,
I would bet money that the other screws in your mounting flange are in that joist next to the hole in the sheetrock. The toggle bolts are there for leveling support only and don't really hold any weight from the projector. BTW, you dont' need a 4x6, a flat 2x4 or 2x6 screwed into the neighboring joists is plenty. l-l

Rant on: I am a General Contractor with >40 years in the trades. A stud runs vertical (walls) and a joist runs horizontal (floor and ceiling) grrrrr. We like to be specific with our projector nomenclature, and you wouldn't call the focus the zoom, or the lens shift the keystone. So ......., I'm done. Rant off.

I would NEVER trust sheetrock alone to anchor a projector, even a lightweight one. I would use a painted 1x6 or better yet, 3/4" plywood to span the distance between the joists and attach the mounting plate to real wood. I have seen too many instances of where drywall (sheetrock) was installed improperly and GUYS, it's NOT STRUCTURAL. If the nails just nick the joists and split the wood, it will hold up the sheetrock but won't have any real holding power. If the screw heads break the paper then the only thing holding up the sheetrock is the compressed powdered gypsum and the paper on the back of the sheetrock. Do you know if the paper on the back of that section of sheetrock is intact? The face and back paper of the sheetrock is ALL that gives sheetrock it's strength. (No one has greenboard on their ceiling, unless your installing the projector in the bathroom) (I suppose it's been done........) Just because the sheetrock is holding today, does not mean it is a good installation practice!

I'm also rather surprised that no one has brought up the subject of CL2 or CL3 rated wires or junction boxes for the electrical connections. Are you aware of the insurance risks if there were a fire?
Do it right, do it once.
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post #32 of 39 Old 09-30-2013, 10:14 AM
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Anxiously waiting for my new JVC DLA X-35 to come in. I am going with the flange option. I bought a 1' threaded pipe today in Lowes and will pickup the flange tomorrow. Can you tell me any more lengths to get before the installer gets here?.. New to the PJ club..thanks in advance..

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post #33 of 39 Old 10-15-2013, 09:03 AM
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How are you liking the Chief RPA mount? I am currently debating between getting the RPA or RPMAU mount. From comparison it looks like the RPA has slighty more Roll and Pitch adjustment than the RPMAU. Was it easy to adjust the projector once it was mounted?
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post #34 of 39 Old 10-15-2013, 09:21 AM
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Actually still waiting for the PJ to come in,. JVC only ships once a month and I missed the Sept. shipping.. It should be in any day now.. I have the RPA 281 and the bottom SLB 291 to match.. Lots of movement to play with. I got a priority mail box from PO and mounted it to see how it lines up.Right now the PJ (box) is dead center on the screen so it looks good.. I will use the help of one of the installers and get another nipple of 9" length in case I have to go up a few inches..I will PM you when everything is set up.. Can't wait!!

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post #35 of 39 Old 10-15-2013, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utee05 View Post

How are you liking the Chief RPA mount? I am currently debating between getting the RPA or RPMAU mount. From comparison it looks like the RPA has slighty more Roll and Pitch adjustment than the RPMAU. Was it easy to adjust the projector once it was mounted?
I've used both and the RPMAU is worlds better for fine tuning adjustment than the RPA series.

The issue is that to adjust the RPA you have to undo screws, then move the projector a bit, then tighten the screws. This process shifts the projector a tiny bit. A very small bit, but it is enough to throw the image off again. A half degree ends up being an inch on the screen, and that's not acceptable.

On the plus side, you only need to do this once (typically) and once everything is really tightened down, it is a very solid mount.

In comparison, the Elite mounts (RPMAU) have a worm gear mechanism that allows for precise projector alignment with all bolts tightened. It doesn't shift around and it is only a couple of minutes to setup. If it ever drifts, then it's super easy to get back where you want it, but it doesn't drift.

I would say the Elite mount probably doesn't have as much adjustment, but generally speaking, you want a projector flat and most ceilings are flat, so that mount works fine. If you need it on an angled ceiling, then you just get a angled ceiling plate, and drop the extension arm straight down from it.

For what it's worth, I buy the Elite mounts from eBay and I wait for really good prices, so I've never paid more than $100. I've also gotten 'specific' projector types, then drilled new holes in the plate that it comes with to use on different projectors.

I mean, right now, this is $55 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHIEF-RPA-ELITE-PROJECTOR-MOUNT-RPMA176-NEW-Free-Shipping-Great-Deal-/131016165351?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item1e812c07e7

Drill a couple of different holes in the mount and you have a RPM series Elite mount for a great price. Depending on the projector you use, you can also look at their mini-Elite mounts, which work just as well, but are for smaller models.

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post #36 of 39 Old 10-15-2013, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_Integrated View Post

I've used both and the RPMAU is worlds better for fine tuning adjustment than the RPA series.

The issue is that to adjust the RPA you have to undo screws, then move the projector a bit, then tighten the screws. This process shifts the projector a tiny bit. A very small bit, but it is enough to throw the image off again. A half degree ends up being an inch on the screen, and that's not acceptable.

On the plus side, you only need to do this once (typically) and once everything is really tightened down, it is a very solid mount.

In comparison, the Elite mounts (RPMAU) have a worm gear mechanism that allows for precise projector alignment with all bolts tightened. It doesn't shift around and it is only a couple of minutes to setup. If it ever drifts, then it's super easy to get back where you want it, but it doesn't drift.

I would say the Elite mount probably doesn't have as much adjustment, but generally speaking, you want a projector flat and most ceilings are flat, so that mount works fine. If you need it on an angled ceiling, then you just get a angled ceiling plate, and drop the extension arm straight down from it.

For what it's worth, I buy the Elite mounts from eBay and I wait for really good prices, so I've never paid more than $100. I've also gotten 'specific' projector types, then drilled new holes in the plate that it comes with to use on different projectors.

I mean, right now, this is $55 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHIEF-RPA-ELITE-PROJECTOR-MOUNT-RPMA176-NEW-Free-Shipping-Great-Deal-/131016165351?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item1e812c07e7

Drill a couple of different holes in the mount and you have a RPM series Elite mount for a great price. Depending on the projector you use, you can also look at their mini-Elite mounts, which work just as well, but are for smaller models.

So essentially that mount is the RPMA but without the universal arms? I will be using this for a W1070 and that looks like a good option instead of getting the RPAU. Guess I'm sold on that one.
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post #37 of 39 Old 01-03-2015, 12:31 PM
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AV_Integrated I was looking at getting either a Sony VPL-HW40ES or Epson 5030ub projector in the near future. Planning on using the Chief RPAU mount.

When looking at it I was trying to figure out how to mount it. When I found the installation manual, I saw that it had it mounted to 2 crossbeams between the main floor joists.

In order to install and mount the projector, will I need to be able to install and mount it to 2 different wooden joists using 4 lag screws? I did not know if you were able to install and mount it with 2 lag screws on a single joist or if it would in deed have to be 4 lag screws in two different joists (2 in each joist)?

Since if it would need to be 4 screws in 2 joist that would mean cutting drywall, putting some 2x6 or 2x8 bracing in and redo drywall and mud and then mount Chief RPAU to them.

Was curious and wanted to see since I cannot find anything else at all that says you can.
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post #38 of 39 Old 01-03-2015, 03:34 PM
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I mounted my Benq W1070 with (2) 3/8 x 2" lag bolts. More than strong enough to hold it steady. Pre-drill the holes for the lag bolts and use tiny finish nails to find the edge of the joist, measure 3/4" over and you have the EXACT center of the floor/ ceiling joist.
I'm a General Contractor and an old guy, I know what I'm talking about. (credentials)

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post #39 of 39 Old 01-06-2015, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renron View Post
I mounted my Benq W1070 with (2) 3/8 x 2" lag bolts. More than strong enough to hold it steady. Pre-drill the holes for the lag bolts and use tiny finish nails to find the edge of the joist, measure 3/4" over and you have the EXACT center of the floor/ ceiling joist.
I'm a General Contractor and an old guy, I know what I'm talking about. (credentials)

Ron
Ron thanks a bunch for the tip and information. Much appreciated.

Trying to figure out what size screws Chief meant when they said this in there manual #10-24 x 3". Only #10-24 screws I can find are threaded rods or machine screws, no wood screws at all. Looks like I will just wait until the mount comes and then I can take to hardware store and try the screw in the mount and see what fits.
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